tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-98884252024-03-05T05:45:10.230+00:00Stumpy's BlogThis blog brings news from mountaineering trips and other travels.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger102125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9888425.post-1145782165363110152024-02-25T05:00:00.000+00:002024-02-25T10:03:59.626+00:00Welcome to Stumpy's Blog<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PNVrVaPFxMs/TuMgQrVENJI/AAAAAAAAD50/1L4OtmuXTzM/s1600/Start+of+the+Cosmiques+Arete.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PNVrVaPFxMs/TuMgQrVENJI/AAAAAAAAD50/1L4OtmuXTzM/s640/Start+of+the+Cosmiques+Arete.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<span face=""verdana" , sans-serif" style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span face=""verdana" , sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span face=""verdana" , sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span face=""verdana" , sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span face=""verdana" , sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span face=""verdana" , sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span face=""verdana" , sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span face=""verdana" , sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span face=""verdana" , sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span face=""verdana" , sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span face=""verdana" , sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span face=""verdana" , sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span face=""verdana" , sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span face=""verdana" , sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span face=""verdana" , sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span face=""verdana" , sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span face=""verdana" , sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span face=""verdana" , sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span face=""verdana" , sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span face=""verdana" , sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span face=""verdana" , sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span face=""verdana" , sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span face=""verdana" , sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span face=""verdana" , sans-serif">Tips on using this blog:</span><br />
<span face=""verdana" , sans-serif">– click on 'Stumpy's Blog' at the top of any page to return to the Home Page</span><br />
<span face=""verdana" , sans-serif">– to see a larger version of any image, simply click on the photo and this will get you into slideshow mode.</span><br />
<span face=""verdana" , sans-serif">Thanks for visiting!</span><br />
<span face=""verdana" , sans-serif">Colin </span><br />
<span face=""verdana" , sans-serif"><br /></span>
<span face=""verdana" , sans-serif">PS. You might be interested to look at a <a href="http://goldenruleadventure.blogspot.co.uk/" target="_blank">new cycling blog</a> too...</span><br /><span face=""verdana" , sans-serif"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><b>Mountaineering and Walking trips </b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><b><br /></b></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrl0_tWS6yRbrTX5PGUzZQuEcgazy_xiBsfVwAOPunKkuZIIzZj5iFfXp_knFmmBPhgocGRONQ1JH0XqkuCAcCl35xUpdj1oLmp3BZOUicGhhLA-7MN9NbNdK0oiks9sbaTmYo/s1600/Patagonia+day+4+039.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="137" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrl0_tWS6yRbrTX5PGUzZQuEcgazy_xiBsfVwAOPunKkuZIIzZj5iFfXp_knFmmBPhgocGRONQ1JH0XqkuCAcCl35xUpdj1oLmp3BZOUicGhhLA-7MN9NbNdK0oiks9sbaTmYo/s400/Patagonia+day+4+039.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2004_07_01_colinstump_archive.html">Aiguilles des Glaciers - July 2004</a></span><br />
<a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2004_08_01_colinstump_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Allalinhorn - August 2004</span></a><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><br />
</span><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2002_07_01_colinstump_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Bernese Oberland - July 2002</span></a><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><br />
</span><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2009_08_01_colinstump_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Bernese Oberland - August 2009</span></a><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2011/10/bhutan-october-2011.html">Bhutan - October 2011 </a></span></span><br />
<a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.co.uk/2012/10/the-camino-de-santiago-pilgrims-trail.html" style="font-family: verdana;" target="_blank">Camino de Santiago, Spain - October 2012</a><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2004_11_01_colinstump_archive.html">Cayambe - November 2004</a></span><br />
<a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2003_07_01_colinstump_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Chamonix to Zermatt - July 2003 </span></a><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2004_11_01_colinstump_archive.html">Chimborazo - November 2004</a></span><br />
<a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2005_07_01_colinstump_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Cosmiques Arête - July 2005 </span></a><br />
<a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2004_11_01_colinstump_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Cotopaxi - November 2004</span></a><br />
<a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2004_07_01_colinstump_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Domes de Miage Traverse - July 2004 </span></a><br />
<a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2005_09_01_colinstump_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Ecrins - September 2005</span></a><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><br />
</span><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2004_11_01_colinstump_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Ecuador - November 2004 </span></a><br />
<a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2008_02_01_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Ethiopia - February 2008</span></a><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><br />
</span><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2003_01_01_colinstump_archive.html">Everest Base Camp - January 2003 </a></span><br />
<a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2001_05_01_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">French Alps - May 2001 </span></a><br />
<a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2005_07_01_colinstump_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">French Alps - July 2005 </span></a><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2006_07_01_colinstump_archive.html">French Alps - July 2006</a></span><br />
<a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2009_08_01_colinstump_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Grindelwald - August 2009</span></a><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><br />
</span><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2003_01_01_colinstump_archive.html">Gokyo Lakes - January 2003</a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.co.uk/2013/12/gozo-december-2013.html" target="_blank">Gozo - December 2013</a><br />
</span><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2009/08/haut-chablais.html">Haut Chablais - August 2009</a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.co.uk/2015/07/haut-chablais-june-2015.html" target="_blank">Haut Chablais -June/July 2015</a><br />
</span><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2003_07_01_colinstump_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Haute Route - July 2003 </span></a><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2005_08_01_colinstump_archive.html">High Atlas, Morocco - August 2005</a></span><br />
<a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2012/06/humla-circuit-nepal-june-2012.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Humla Circuit, Nepal - June 2012 </span></a><br />
<a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.co.uk/2012/06/jomsom-trail-mustang-nepal-2012.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Jomsom Trail and Mustang - Nepal May/June 2012 </span></a><br />
<a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2007_08_01_colinstump_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Kilimanjaro - August 2007 </span></a><br />
<a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2010/10/lake-district.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Lake District - October 2010</span></a><br />
<a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2010/10/happy-days-life-in-lakes.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Lake District - A Life in The Lakes</span></a><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2008_08_01_archive.html">Ladakh - August 2008 </a></span><br />
<div>
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/madeira-july-2013.html" target="_blank">Madeira - July 2013</a> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2010_08_01_archive.html">Matterhorn Circuit - August 2010 </a></span><br />
<a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2009_08_01_colinstump_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Mönch - August 2009</span></a><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><br />
<a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2002_09_01_colinstump_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Mont Blanc - September 2002 </span></a><br />
<a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2009/08/haut-chablais.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Morzine - August 2009</span></a><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><br />
<a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2003_01_01_colinstump_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Nepal - January 2003</span></a><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><br />
</span><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2006/09/wet-week-in-pyrenees.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Pyrenees - September 2006 </span></a><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2011/10/glencoe-scotland-may-2011.html">Scotland - May 2011 </a></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/sicily-aolian-islands-april-2014.html" target="_blank">Sicily & the Aolian Islands - April 2014</a></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.co.uk/2014/06/sierra-de-gredos-spain-2014.html" target="_blank">Sierra de Gredos, Spain - June 2014</a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/sierra-subbeticas-spain-march-2013.html" target="_blank">Sierra Subbéticas, Spain - March 2013</a></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2009_04_01_archive.html">Sikkim Himalaya - April 2009 </a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2008_02_01_archive.html">Simien Mountains - February 2008 </a></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/slovenia-june-2013.html" target="_blank">Slovenia - June 2013</a><br />
<a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2008_08_01_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Stok Kangri - August 2008 </span></a><br />
<a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2001_08_01_colinstump_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Swiss Valais - August 2001 </span></a><br />
<a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2004_08_01_colinstump_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Swiss 4000ers - August 2004</span></a><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><br />
<a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2004_09_01_colinstump_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise - September 2004 </span></a><br />
<a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2003_09_01_colinstump_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Tour du Mont Blanc - August 2003</span></a><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><br />
</span><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2004_07_01_colinstump_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Tour du Mont Blanc - July 2004</span></a><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><br />
</span><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2005_09_01_colinstump_archive.html">Tour of the Oisans - September 2005 </a></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2005_07_01_colinstump_archive.html">Tour Ronde - July 2005 </a></span><br />
<a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.co.uk/2013/04/lycian-way-turkey-2013.html" style="font-family: verdana;" target="_blank">Turkey - April 2013</a><br />
<a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2001_08_01_colinstump_archive.html" style="font-family: verdana;">Walker's Haute Route - August 2001 </a><br />
<a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2004_08_01_colinstump_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Weissmies - August 2004</span></a><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><br />
</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana";"><br /></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><b>Worldwide Adventure Trips</b></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><b><br /></b></span></span></span>
</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfmL-8TBDogtqMUjRAl6ltPxIgD2UcAbRbJyhHqrSWlNPPvE9ZfcdBsI5xLteiY9-XRkt9L1oHmrSlZhBuZq-AxkHcpR6gUEISYvBfeDpgmnYDdF9U6xratOvIvwLaqsLqE8Q8/s1600/Lhasa+103.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfmL-8TBDogtqMUjRAl6ltPxIgD2UcAbRbJyhHqrSWlNPPvE9ZfcdBsI5xLteiY9-XRkt9L1oHmrSlZhBuZq-AxkHcpR6gUEISYvBfeDpgmnYDdF9U6xratOvIvwLaqsLqE8Q8/s400/Lhasa+103.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana";"><b><br /></b></span>
<br />
<div style="font-family: Times; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2004_10_01_colinstump_archive.html">Africa - October 2004</a></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://goldenruleadventure.blogspot.co.uk/2017/08/alpine-cols-august-2017.html" target="_blank">Alps (Cycling) - August 2017</a></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/1998_02_01_colinstump_archive.html">Antarctica - January 1998</a></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.co.uk/2014/08/arctic-august-2014.html" target="_blank">Arctic Expedition - August 2014</a></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Times; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2010/02/patagonia-argentina-chile-february-2010.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Argentina - February 2010</span></a></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Times; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2010_02_01_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Atacama Desert - February 2010</span></a></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Times; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2008_11_01_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Australia - October 2008</span></a></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Times; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2009/09/australia-northern-territory-september.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Australia (Northern Territory) - September 2009</span></a></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Times; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2010_09_01_archive.html">Australia (Queensland) - September 2010</a></span></span></span></span></span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><a href="https://colinstump.blogspot.com/2024/02/australia-new-zealand-december-2010_25.html" target="_blank">Australia & New Zealand - December 2010</a><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2012/02/australia-nsw-and-south-australia-2012.html">Australia (NSW and South Australia) - January 2012</a></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Times; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2000_09_01_colinstump_archive.html">Badlands, South Dakota, USA - September 2000</a></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
</div>
<div style="font-family: Times; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2006_11_01_colinstump_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Bolivia - November 2006</span></a></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Times; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2004_10_01_colinstump_archive.html">Botswana - October 2004</a></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.co.uk/2013/02/burma-myanmar.html" target="_blank">Burma (Myanmar) - February 2013</a></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Times; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2007_02_01_archive.html">Cambodia - February 2007</a></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Times; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2010_02_01_archive.html">Chile - February 2010</a></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
</div>
<div style="font-family: Times; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2011/08/chinas-silk-road-august-2011.html">China - August 2011</a></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://goldenruleadventure.blogspot.co.uk/2016/09/northern-corsica-september-2016.html" target="_blank">Corsica (Cycling) - September 2016</a></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Times; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2008_10_01_archive.html">Costa Rica - October 2008</a></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://goldenruleadventure.blogspot.co.uk/2014/05/cote-cote-2014-boys-trip-across-france.html" target="_blank">France, Coast to Coast (Cycling) - 2014</a></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Times; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2010_09_01_archive.html">Great Barrier Reef - September 2010</a></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Times; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2000_09_01_colinstump_archive.html">Grand Teton - September 2000</a></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
</div>
<div style="font-family: Times; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2008_12_01_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Hong Kong - December 2008</span></a></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Times; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2005_11_01_colinstump_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">India - November 2005</span></a></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Times; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2011/10/india-2011.html">India - March 2011</a></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0px;"><a href="https://colinstump.blogspot.com/2013/08/india-august-2013.html" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: verdana;">India - August 2013</span></a><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.co.uk/2014/03/india-2014.html" target="_blank">India - March 2014</a></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Times; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2006_04_01_colinstump_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Japan - April 2006</span></a></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Times; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2008_07_01_colinstump_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Jordan - June 2008</span></a></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Times; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2006_06_01_colinstump_archive.html">Kenya - June 2006</a></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://goldenruleadventure.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/lands-end-to-john-o.html" target="_blank">Lands End to John o'Groats (Cycling) - 2013</a></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://goldenruleadventure.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/london-to-paris-ride.html" target="_blank">London to Paris (Cycling) - 2013</a></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://goldenruleadventure.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/mallorca-training-camp.html" target="_blank">Mallorca (Cycling) - 2014</a></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.co.uk/2012/09/trails-of-menorca.html">Menorca - September 2012</a></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Times; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2004_10_01_colinstump_archive.html">Namibia - October 2004 </a></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Times; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2008_12_01_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">New Zealand, South Island - December 2008</span></a><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2009_12_01_archive.html">New Zealand, North Island - December 2009</a></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2012/02/new-zealand-2012.html">New Zealand - February 2012</a><br /><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2010/02/patagonia-argentina-chile-february-2010.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Patagonia - February 2010 </span></a></span><br /><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2006_11_01_colinstump_archive.html">Peru - November 2006</a></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2012/01/singapore.html">Singapore - January 2012</a></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Times; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2005_01_01_colinstump_archive.html">South Africa -January 2005 </a></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.co.uk/2017/11/sri-lanka-november-2017.html" target="_blank">Sri Lanka - November 2017</a><br /><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2010/04/st-petersburg-russian-federation_02.html">St Petersburg, Russian Federation - March 2010 </a></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<div style="font-family: Times;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2007_07_01_archive.html">Svalbard - June/July 2007 </a></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Times;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2006_06_01_colinstump_archive.html">Tanzania - June 2006 </a></span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Times;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2010_04_01_archive.html">Tasmania - April 2010</a></span></span></div>
</div>
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2007_02_01_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Thailand - February 2007</span></a></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<div style="font-family: Times; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2010/06/journey-to-roof-of-world.html">Tibet - June 2010</a></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.co.uk/2015/05/tibet-aprilmay-2015.html" target="_blank">Tibet - May 2015</a></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2008_09_01_colinstump_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Tuscany - September 2008 </span></a></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2009_09_01_archive.html">Vermont - September 2009 </a></span><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><br /><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2009_06_01_colinstump_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Western Australia - June 2009 </span></a><br /><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2000_09_01_colinstump_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Wyoming - September 2000 </span></a><br /><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2000_09_01_colinstump_archive.html">Yellowstone National Park - September 2000</a></span></span><span style="font-family: "verdana";"></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">
</span></span></span>
</span><br />
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana";"><br /></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<div style="font-family: Times;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana";"><b>Miscellany</b></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Times;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana";"><b><br /></b></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: Times; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqqRqzaH5RQSlFRC9sZ5zMRZZZCqCiqICJQjFXAiSPCRqG9zP_8ONnlRBB_Q0-FeuqqxJWPLavym-SI_VxB337dBZmv9bv3AJmI3I7deWa1TA5SN1Aamcr89bWLZ9bidNBq2qrrw/s1600/redarrow4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqqRqzaH5RQSlFRC9sZ5zMRZZZCqCiqICJQjFXAiSPCRqG9zP_8ONnlRBB_Q0-FeuqqxJWPLavym-SI_VxB337dBZmv9bv3AJmI3I7deWa1TA5SN1Aamcr89bWLZ9bidNBq2qrrw/s1600/redarrow4.jpg" /></a></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana";"><b><br /></b></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">
</span></span></span>
</span><br />
<div style="font-family: Times; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana";"><a href="http://colinstump.blogspot.com/2009_11_01_archive.html"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">Stumpy's Scary Moments</span></a></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";"><span style="font-family: "verdana";">
<br />
<br />
</span></span></span></span></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9888425.post-21251608568396438742017-11-28T07:30:00.000+00:002017-11-30T07:33:54.228+00:00Sri Lanka - November 2017<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgafD7yd5MUkXHbCDXXfAvrVXXU1c9pUjELlT_vCrkuaL904eM5xJ90W6CsCmywja4J7jdSY80nF5X_j-CRZZotFJWiGWELKinTZoDmo30uenG1aSNr1a8vYuj-jX5384Yn_C6Q-w/s1600/leopard+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="960" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgafD7yd5MUkXHbCDXXfAvrVXXU1c9pUjELlT_vCrkuaL904eM5xJ90W6CsCmywja4J7jdSY80nF5X_j-CRZZotFJWiGWELKinTZoDmo30uenG1aSNr1a8vYuj-jX5384Yn_C6Q-w/s640/leopard+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
4 pm local time. Yala West National Park.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Ranger receives mobile call and steps on the accelerator.
Minutes later we are face to face with a leopard.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
It’s not interested in us, steely eyes focused on something
moving in the bush to our left. The cat moves towards its target, almost
certainly using two jeeps ahead of us as cover. It passes between them,
crouches low in a ditch on the side of the track.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
And then, all hell breaks loose. Spotted deer come flying
out of the bush behind us, the leopard having made its final launch at the
prey, and one young deer now making its last calls to its mother.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
The mother calls back, and there’s a sorrowful exchange
between them. Then silence. And the leopard can be seen dragging its kill into
denser bush, away from prying eyes.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Goose bumps, irreplaceable memories for all who looked on.
Raw nature in action, another day in the park.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Just one example of the wonder that is Sri Lanka. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
We were on an <a href="https://www.exodus.co.uk/sri-lanka-holidays/discovery-wildlife/discover-sri-lanka/ail-86635">Exodus
tour</a>, having started a week earlier from Colombo, visiting iconic Buddhist
sites, rock fortresses, ancient capitals and tea plantations. An active trip
too, with a 200 metre climb to the top of Sigiriya, Lion’s Rock, some rafting,
trekking on the Horton Plains, and cycling through the rice paddies and jungle around
Giritale. Plus, some downtime on the south coast beaches.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil3t3af5UUHXUXh0C9oBQNnfKhX8EfhO3_9UrPR5hyphenhyphenWpLxE9ELm4pnqOa0NaPR_Il5SBY4l5cAblESU9aLqj_zjrV-UR6l5fzpdhJ6c0DwMLlrFD7g4lmgEK-Gk2PNfKXc2mRQEw/s1600/Route+map+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1051" data-original-width="1568" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil3t3af5UUHXUXh0C9oBQNnfKhX8EfhO3_9UrPR5hyphenhyphenWpLxE9ELm4pnqOa0NaPR_Il5SBY4l5cAblESU9aLqj_zjrV-UR6l5fzpdhJ6c0DwMLlrFD7g4lmgEK-Gk2PNfKXc2mRQEw/s640/Route+map+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiaqaGVG809d-BOrGkGsdLEi3m9kU_L38baAP-1rP680mgRk9tXLqtRL92JxP-JsQ7Je4inAEEJXvmTfbHJRIl4pmAMIrbplrGYQiIgmvhKApRzj64wtoGVXWSM6UyvcbgzhR2wA/s1600/Route+map+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1017" data-original-width="1600" height="406" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiaqaGVG809d-BOrGkGsdLEi3m9kU_L38baAP-1rP680mgRk9tXLqtRL92JxP-JsQ7Je4inAEEJXvmTfbHJRIl4pmAMIrbplrGYQiIgmvhKApRzj64wtoGVXWSM6UyvcbgzhR2wA/s640/Route+map+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
Sri Lanka is about the same size as Ireland, but home to 21
million people. Even in the dense inland forests, the land is dotted with a
myriad of smallholdings. Colombo and other urban centres are just like any
other Asian town, the modern world of Western-style clothes, food halls, and
hoardings advertising high speed broadband, blended with statues of the Buddha,
Hindu temples, and a smattering of mosques and Christian churches. The new port
area of Colombo (helped by Chinese investment) and futuristic tower blocks
contrast with the subsistence farms and rice paddies inland, the back-breaking
labour involved visible to all.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgQ72Zyr1YHR8YNMsa4tzRntoMvhBC03usekqHk-os_1G1PQVKa-eHlm9whyphenhyphen-dllgXl881k6oQmxsulPaZ8VlX0GRXe0NJwBiNggt1H1Uv9cxGnl2vNwOm5HUFcMQfP4zKpvBPFw/s1600/IMG_0122.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgQ72Zyr1YHR8YNMsa4tzRntoMvhBC03usekqHk-os_1G1PQVKa-eHlm9whyphenhyphen-dllgXl881k6oQmxsulPaZ8VlX0GRXe0NJwBiNggt1H1Uv9cxGnl2vNwOm5HUFcMQfP4zKpvBPFw/s640/IMG_0122.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
There is huge variety in landscapes too. From salt marsh to
beautiful stretches of beach in the coastal zones, to the verdant jungle and
rice paddies in the plain that rings the island, up to the Central Highlands
which reach a high point of 2524m (8281 ft). Granite domes rise abruptly from
the plain around Dambulla, one home to the Sigiriya rock fortress. Much of the
higher ground is now covered in vast tea plantations, Sri Lanka being the
fourth largest producer in the world. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p><br />
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFDQ4KuE-zct7vajOh9O2FMXnvwdgam028lUhErYttopiYRZL5cF9VAudGyqplJ-hEGYABBaoEaWRLZvfrlfvra4Vdxbkonl4BW3nj_5Ox1FLuVvauATC60tH1vurfpFXcxYk6jw/s1600/P1170216.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFDQ4KuE-zct7vajOh9O2FMXnvwdgam028lUhErYttopiYRZL5cF9VAudGyqplJ-hEGYABBaoEaWRLZvfrlfvra4Vdxbkonl4BW3nj_5Ox1FLuVvauATC60tH1vurfpFXcxYk6jw/s640/P1170216.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
Buddhism is the dominant religion, with Hindu presence more
concentrated in the northern and eastern areas among the Tamil population.
Statues of the Buddha feature everywhere, and the stupas, known locally as <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">dagobas, </i>are a common sight. The rock
temples at Dambulla, the ancient city of Polonnaruwa, and the Temple of the
Tooth in Kandy (said to hold a tooth of Sakyamuni Buddha, collected after his
cremation) were notable on our tour.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirLOcUfWCOaqW2jnsZDyOPoA4EmLt4zQxieVhiaWSZdUPUdrUjA7mqqvGZ_iYBexVdqsCPbHx6QuJp-ziHNM3BbNEXWezwZEqKMQ00f3O7Cnkp8iWb-f_Lnp-wr61S3xs6-PIAJA/s1600/IMG_0005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirLOcUfWCOaqW2jnsZDyOPoA4EmLt4zQxieVhiaWSZdUPUdrUjA7mqqvGZ_iYBexVdqsCPbHx6QuJp-ziHNM3BbNEXWezwZEqKMQ00f3O7Cnkp8iWb-f_Lnp-wr61S3xs6-PIAJA/s640/IMG_0005.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Royal Rock temple at Dambulla</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtEbrcH1I7RRfxhclUVMvGU9PwjBpWPoMJW014do4n_HlSB8bci1EKzsSVhPyLZzjQS7FssQUrmCwB1gUUR5P8dpsf4dDtLyGY_sveNKdaptUQrq12Tckh38asMU3upun6D8NlMA/s1600/P1170088.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtEbrcH1I7RRfxhclUVMvGU9PwjBpWPoMJW014do4n_HlSB8bci1EKzsSVhPyLZzjQS7FssQUrmCwB1gUUR5P8dpsf4dDtLyGY_sveNKdaptUQrq12Tckh38asMU3upun6D8NlMA/s640/P1170088.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rankot Vihara dagoba, in Polonnaruwa (the capital city from 10th to 12th centuries)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-6AUTxV2btAMprgNFJWwU-kB-tH3iKSNXX35_468iCx6pVZtD2lT5hstdF5G6aNawkfyB91bKQ6k_gK7vcl45L4IbNkDBbEZdGJzsc2Nr-8ZG0c8YJjBwFwHZMpxguiatA5DRfQ/s1600/IMG_0077.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-6AUTxV2btAMprgNFJWwU-kB-tH3iKSNXX35_468iCx6pVZtD2lT5hstdF5G6aNawkfyB91bKQ6k_gK7vcl45L4IbNkDBbEZdGJzsc2Nr-8ZG0c8YJjBwFwHZMpxguiatA5DRfQ/s640/IMG_0077.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gal Vihara, with four Buddha images hewn from one long slab of granite. Polonnaruwa.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4zKrnCIi3voLLGfp3lX31MF_T7Dwf93DnW4LCVT1rCH_av0zBW2ULgMN56x0RSdcTW-WED7TvVpBjvuWj2nMC-pPrnDA9O4uSjdhEcBLt7DL2P8mIzv7atdTyykD1TFsk0u0BaQ/s1600/IMG_0078.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4zKrnCIi3voLLGfp3lX31MF_T7Dwf93DnW4LCVT1rCH_av0zBW2ULgMN56x0RSdcTW-WED7TvVpBjvuWj2nMC-pPrnDA9O4uSjdhEcBLt7DL2P8mIzv7atdTyykD1TFsk0u0BaQ/s640/IMG_0078.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgUpregNKdyUhEmUrvnvDWNhYaDA2qIYGbU8CvLPJSiKVxwD4f-hct00wVMn4HPZdKmb9eqrbU5hW9zV6kDlatav0I7ULKVd0ac1SQaeQkVddwsIBZj6vpRQMYb8t8mNtxGeRsIQ/s1600/IMG_0090.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgUpregNKdyUhEmUrvnvDWNhYaDA2qIYGbU8CvLPJSiKVxwD4f-hct00wVMn4HPZdKmb9eqrbU5hW9zV6kDlatav0I7ULKVd0ac1SQaeQkVddwsIBZj6vpRQMYb8t8mNtxGeRsIQ/s640/IMG_0090.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, Kandy</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Wildlife is well protected, a series of national parks
offering sanctuary to Sri Lankan elephants (seen in large groups in Kaudulla
National Park), leopard, wild boar, water buffalo, crocodile, monitor lizards, and
sloth bears. Indian flying foxes were seen in abundance over Kandy Lake. Birdlife
is interesting too, from green bee-eaters, Sri Lankan jungle fowl, to egret,
pelicans, and serpent eagles. Offshore, five different varieties of turtle, and
blue and sperm whales off the South Coast.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu0KWSA0yTcpjJ8VRyZqIH6ihdZPRt0kTc5ZLuZ8i39IPS7VlQvpyumnyswtj6va-metlpxywmptms-Ou90R4s0jfDiX_q8I-6ZKUIHRVnFEt4ryOi4w4yWei4nn4YU7ACxQW_Rg/s1600/leopard+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="960" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu0KWSA0yTcpjJ8VRyZqIH6ihdZPRt0kTc5ZLuZ8i39IPS7VlQvpyumnyswtj6va-metlpxywmptms-Ou90R4s0jfDiX_q8I-6ZKUIHRVnFEt4ryOi4w4yWei4nn4YU7ACxQW_Rg/s640/leopard+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leopard in Yala National Park <span style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;">© Chris Rhodes</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxjY13wiPyoV3AjBhfpQUWCxo_dkLeuSHSEUZYDctRfekYlGf8h1G32W6qqtomkfRDOhZswddDa09RFan-ralhyuTuHWncKv32La9vZeBUNqeAC_aQVHWX86Zvq4UPC7HUEikkfA/s1600/IMG_0227.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxjY13wiPyoV3AjBhfpQUWCxo_dkLeuSHSEUZYDctRfekYlGf8h1G32W6qqtomkfRDOhZswddDa09RFan-ralhyuTuHWncKv32La9vZeBUNqeAC_aQVHWX86Zvq4UPC7HUEikkfA/s640/IMG_0227.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sloth bear, Yala</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTnDE0PMR0k0UlNuGp4A2ieMkV8fpnsEcC7OwdvYUp8MYwoVkw5DnYxwqA4RGtfyxbJe_ybSyyMQX-Igeu1oppkE82jHQUTgpCa19xeMXITNBqKuW7KKcTyqPyPNpfqTJkY2MHwg/s1600/P1170390.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1010" data-original-width="1600" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTnDE0PMR0k0UlNuGp4A2ieMkV8fpnsEcC7OwdvYUp8MYwoVkw5DnYxwqA4RGtfyxbJe_ybSyyMQX-Igeu1oppkE82jHQUTgpCa19xeMXITNBqKuW7KKcTyqPyPNpfqTJkY2MHwg/s640/P1170390.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sloth bear cubs</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLeBqtYi77pxIme1Jta5TPxsaO3ux6g1DGRHiYQoSCxJek9McX1mkONzki_iMq5QhoFfyBVg3k582Jf-xBqZc4c0JW7tHRhdRAA8A7BaYBCnCck7yHLZWmvgXbO-zRrdYXZNIn5Q/s1600/P1170357.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLeBqtYi77pxIme1Jta5TPxsaO3ux6g1DGRHiYQoSCxJek9McX1mkONzki_iMq5QhoFfyBVg3k582Jf-xBqZc4c0JW7tHRhdRAA8A7BaYBCnCck7yHLZWmvgXbO-zRrdYXZNIn5Q/s640/P1170357.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Land monitor lizard</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaDWyAkgQMpGLSRXSpERCNsjA58UBdlkStc4uwHNvbPImZjV6sds07KugzuFeDsYoayxTWC52wxKi4k5kVl2Jghx-vUlm1tXKF_Peyci37b1SBUXx34TEr8pIXO7X7dOEI83NoAQ/s1600/P1170011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1434" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaDWyAkgQMpGLSRXSpERCNsjA58UBdlkStc4uwHNvbPImZjV6sds07KugzuFeDsYoayxTWC52wxKi4k5kVl2Jghx-vUlm1tXKF_Peyci37b1SBUXx34TEr8pIXO7X7dOEI83NoAQ/s640/P1170011.jpg" width="572" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sri Lankan elephants, Kaudulla National Park</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwSYOePfqQK0JZT9O-8ajnY2Vy8JCKvjhfcHQ6bBN4mwP3yQBYQFR3ADqspMU1qTmwRqPSea0EkXQW80FFbHLkejqH1Y7CCPfGQFXWLj6bocXWPMKP-f-x9-0HzQN9peoYFYWhIg/s1600/IMG_0197.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwSYOePfqQK0JZT9O-8ajnY2Vy8JCKvjhfcHQ6bBN4mwP3yQBYQFR3ADqspMU1qTmwRqPSea0EkXQW80FFbHLkejqH1Y7CCPfGQFXWLj6bocXWPMKP-f-x9-0HzQN9peoYFYWhIg/s640/IMG_0197.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Toque macaque, Yala</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Over the centuries, Sri Lanka has suffered numerous
incursions. From South India in the fifth century BCE, the descendants now
today’s majority Sinhalese population, the Tamil Chola dynasty annexing the
northern part of the island in the ninth and tenth centuries, and European
colonists, starting with the Portuguese in the sixteenth century. The Dutch
assumed control a century later, finally ceding power to the British in 1802. Ceylon,
as it was then known, finally gained independence in 1948, and has since been
racked by political instability, a fierce war with Tamil separatists in the
north (finally resolved in 2008), and suffering devastation in the coastal
areas due to the 2004 tsunami.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb_YpC9SvOGdgRHQkBKkiEyeTGAlcqpmfLpNdC5XVdk8OFlP1g44r3CcSF3AyYzsqmiFX-FFDMDg0RvVv3UOnslED6cJpalEirnWKipavBcuwMv4v6CJ3Qjdw_mUgs0e_Mcq52Rw/s1600/IMG_0191.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb_YpC9SvOGdgRHQkBKkiEyeTGAlcqpmfLpNdC5XVdk8OFlP1g44r3CcSF3AyYzsqmiFX-FFDMDg0RvVv3UOnslED6cJpalEirnWKipavBcuwMv4v6CJ3Qjdw_mUgs0e_Mcq52Rw/s640/IMG_0191.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rice paddies</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKyvisfZkohoKabOglu4P2Mhsha9xVVMkqZJo2ug2ZDrYe3vgkg7hAWK9yO_RFX8hs362eHBNETdqr3ZjOXmfsBT_fv1GGVN1m4z_hJtShL5NNcAPtbHJfZgWKNZSjEVnbboIXoQ/s1600/IMG_0188.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKyvisfZkohoKabOglu4P2Mhsha9xVVMkqZJo2ug2ZDrYe3vgkg7hAWK9yO_RFX8hs362eHBNETdqr3ZjOXmfsBT_fv1GGVN1m4z_hJtShL5NNcAPtbHJfZgWKNZSjEVnbboIXoQ/s640/IMG_0188.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtvl4Idi0SimUk-MdGteIuOrl1HnGXEsSuoV7gZipYK-ZHczxCIeFqYu-hKdm2e1hefE0Jmzp7N_ivHfxIOiQAi8JxW5xbVVpfg60BB9oYVH33CkROQTczFujjNSxZ6m308U4lIA/s1600/P1170151.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtvl4Idi0SimUk-MdGteIuOrl1HnGXEsSuoV7gZipYK-ZHczxCIeFqYu-hKdm2e1hefE0Jmzp7N_ivHfxIOiQAi8JxW5xbVVpfg60BB9oYVH33CkROQTczFujjNSxZ6m308U4lIA/s640/P1170151.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Twisted Cook's pines. Peradeniya Botanic Gardens, Kandy</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigN-35rUK26fWgUrBDB4_0Ozqq4EoiTcsBObHl8JE_g-QJfM5LMOyAbiLWrh7KDcn0nBidoCdrlykfPxcw8WCTtfbvq6Z2utQDQBR06o32XDF_Dd2FalqV3NxuFPnGsg3bcruHcw/s1600/P1170410.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigN-35rUK26fWgUrBDB4_0Ozqq4EoiTcsBObHl8JE_g-QJfM5LMOyAbiLWrh7KDcn0nBidoCdrlykfPxcw8WCTtfbvq6Z2utQDQBR06o32XDF_Dd2FalqV3NxuFPnGsg3bcruHcw/s640/P1170410.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Real Sri Lankan fishermen</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk0St_AJt9WY5RFG7mTicoxr8Id9zmbLx_971Mm1Ve_HOpkOYoYs2H5h_jnfpFK4K22IrW87aqYgfW2-OCl5dJeYkszWuWTDZ-7Nwxn55eI8G01o37AbhinmFgUcYHf1Dvz9e93A/s1600/P1170415.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk0St_AJt9WY5RFG7mTicoxr8Id9zmbLx_971Mm1Ve_HOpkOYoYs2H5h_jnfpFK4K22IrW87aqYgfW2-OCl5dJeYkszWuWTDZ-7Nwxn55eI8G01o37AbhinmFgUcYHf1Dvz9e93A/s640/P1170415.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fake Sri Lankan 'fishermen' (stilt fishing stopped many years ago when the water snakes disappeared)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
But it is a happy place. People are friendly, tourists (over
one million a year) are now pouring in, there is a good education system, and
one rarely sees the depths of poverty that might be observed on the Indian
subcontinent, just 20 miles off the north west of the island.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<b>Trip highlights:</b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Early morning climb of Sigiriya;<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZGEVFs2MwPDuhAyBb6B6UMk07DuxE2WuFk8YMysRMCJXflCB7kWiYdT1CsmTVkMcQ8Q-FHPJW-i-mKul2Ct4unAkd0NiYRtpSH8Z-Sr-iTPu8Sybso9Qt-jXlAt1DUkDmAlqytw/s1600/P1170014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZGEVFs2MwPDuhAyBb6B6UMk07DuxE2WuFk8YMysRMCJXflCB7kWiYdT1CsmTVkMcQ8Q-FHPJW-i-mKul2Ct4unAkd0NiYRtpSH8Z-Sr-iTPu8Sybso9Qt-jXlAt1DUkDmAlqytw/s640/P1170014.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sigiriya, fortress palace of King Kassapa (477–495 CE) and thought to have been a monastery too</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: right;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrsCyYflyTq37o9me51Nx_Fdr2lN-vxG30Ya04JmTk-I92NEAR4C3qtt8aOdZ9cMLMqh0kmLUZqL60MvsWBXo5Izsb9MIKj_AlVtXg5gyVBZVgKc6tjaKfwV3CDCaCwwlo__vcCw/s1600/P1160955.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrsCyYflyTq37o9me51Nx_Fdr2lN-vxG30Ya04JmTk-I92NEAR4C3qtt8aOdZ9cMLMqh0kmLUZqL60MvsWBXo5Izsb9MIKj_AlVtXg5gyVBZVgKc6tjaKfwV3CDCaCwwlo__vcCw/s640/P1160955.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The precipitous climb from the Lion's Claws, Sigiriya</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPPBkje5aUt_2QAea0-miem04Xsk6lG2PzPllCSt57h4490fqPP6eMUI8QsopRSlM-WRsoORtoukpijvV_k2FKEHd1wUhF5k1Q6-t3OntAQuGubDjW9MyBZS86RWsk85Qkz76fYg/s1600/P1160951.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPPBkje5aUt_2QAea0-miem04Xsk6lG2PzPllCSt57h4490fqPP6eMUI8QsopRSlM-WRsoORtoukpijvV_k2FKEHd1wUhF5k1Q6-t3OntAQuGubDjW9MyBZS86RWsk85Qkz76fYg/s640/P1160951.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Views from the summit of Sigiriya</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Big groups of elephant in Kaudulla NP;<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHJntfwJ9ftDLSJAtNqVVN1nGs-Nlv2QPr3N7WlhsGczwWoOVmD3rh-3tFx8rziCl-T8_b2UYs0QSdIhHbf_3gm8BEj6ACKQc5404nFg07rEMH1T1KkjzDekX_mD9SyDf0pV0Ohg/s1600/P1160981.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHJntfwJ9ftDLSJAtNqVVN1nGs-Nlv2QPr3N7WlhsGczwWoOVmD3rh-3tFx8rziCl-T8_b2UYs0QSdIhHbf_3gm8BEj6ACKQc5404nFg07rEMH1T1KkjzDekX_mD9SyDf0pV0Ohg/s640/P1160981.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Lunch with a farming family near the Giritale Tank (the
latter part of a network of man-made reservoirs constructed in the early part
of the country’s history, enabling intensive cultivation of the upland areas);<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf_4h5bzNE1gHuCCIREgVPNXat53hsEC8GYtGRKlMQQkj-YrMqshjUxPVNEwp1aWsGsQALT-OsoFeJ8CuLqzEEU1nA_xKGtT0T7EacfuveXeYxf8CrabYSq8Wid1JzvKPd5hHtCA/s1600/IMG_0064.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf_4h5bzNE1gHuCCIREgVPNXat53hsEC8GYtGRKlMQQkj-YrMqshjUxPVNEwp1aWsGsQALT-OsoFeJ8CuLqzEEU1nA_xKGtT0T7EacfuveXeYxf8CrabYSq8Wid1JzvKPd5hHtCA/s640/IMG_0064.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Exodus group finishing their cycle tour near Giritale</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Puja at the Temple of the Tooth and a visit to the
International Museum of World Buddhism in Kandy;<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKnCN5qKvIGFtOBas43-GrIj18a7B7KPho_1bVScUBFUrvImyh2T_E-6-4GlACrQlQ9IHfMiY2f1L8A9uoAonwOQyLbgUP8gT-kyMv62Mk_MuyR2EdnlrGeGNRWnTrOS6nsyTpHw/s1600/P1170121.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKnCN5qKvIGFtOBas43-GrIj18a7B7KPho_1bVScUBFUrvImyh2T_E-6-4GlACrQlQ9IHfMiY2f1L8A9uoAonwOQyLbgUP8gT-kyMv62Mk_MuyR2EdnlrGeGNRWnTrOS6nsyTpHw/s640/P1170121.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
A stay at the Hill Club in Nuwara Eliya, a former ‘gentlemen’s club,’ with formal dining (jacket and ties can be borrowed for the purpose), and wonderful colonial feel;<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQj6OTs6oqQMcQyLk-Y3tbLVB-PCkFKCNel927Pe9eMfAL07NsSZYwGkoWK5ryJIia-CguFBmRdQri1x87-OdrG0XVtpFCJKHROmEAOcwofmLnkhW7lZC7PXB4ZEDBtjcp3oKTjA/s1600/P1170195.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQj6OTs6oqQMcQyLk-Y3tbLVB-PCkFKCNel927Pe9eMfAL07NsSZYwGkoWK5ryJIia-CguFBmRdQri1x87-OdrG0XVtpFCJKHROmEAOcwofmLnkhW7lZC7PXB4ZEDBtjcp3oKTjA/s640/P1170195.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK2uJb4MlloF7jEi9S-357ALYt9ez2IF19DCkukTyAZuoPumvFDXFP3aKqlwG7cX_mKhVAROFEr9pXZklfFFPDRzJlc4BjnmYH_I7-QMWx5Y6hhlPFJQm2BQrKpnirFVQG7hBw3A/s1600/IMG_0141.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK2uJb4MlloF7jEi9S-357ALYt9ez2IF19DCkukTyAZuoPumvFDXFP3aKqlwG7cX_mKhVAROFEr9pXZklfFFPDRzJlc4BjnmYH_I7-QMWx5Y6hhlPFJQm2BQrKpnirFVQG7hBw3A/s640/IMG_0141.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
The circular walk taking in the famous World’s End viewpoint
in the montane forest of Horton Plains;<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvmNzk8zz5h7K_SrVVcz55x0rRkZVH1kCEQkrGB2Fa1ccxrNeVacz3qQqBXzihM9xR63dR6W9ewIF4RetGobuSQYusiWE5gIEXBEgNAO2Xs9GUL89hAVvojRjVAN4esGLpBDl9qg/s1600/IMG_0149.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="761" data-original-width="1600" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvmNzk8zz5h7K_SrVVcz55x0rRkZVH1kCEQkrGB2Fa1ccxrNeVacz3qQqBXzihM9xR63dR6W9ewIF4RetGobuSQYusiWE5gIEXBEgNAO2Xs9GUL89hAVvojRjVAN4esGLpBDl9qg/s640/IMG_0149.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Driving through the tea plantations around Nuwara Eliya;<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-4R1jUUGWfPGxcziZ4qUwixnEsXxNrPteZaLUxAQONagKuxK2RkqS5gezHgv3gTD6cZahb3LElwRCXtYcip0TYNNFhfGOU8DQts3Td86PIckTDyL9J53tppJaix6WsT3qFGFunQ/s1600/P1170209.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="446" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-4R1jUUGWfPGxcziZ4qUwixnEsXxNrPteZaLUxAQONagKuxK2RkqS5gezHgv3gTD6cZahb3LElwRCXtYcip0TYNNFhfGOU8DQts3Td86PIckTDyL9J53tppJaix6WsT3qFGFunQ/s640/P1170209.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Drinking tea in the colonial opulence of Amangalla, adjacent
to the historic Dutch fort at Galle…</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:AllowPNG/>
<o:PixelsPerInch>96</o:PixelsPerInch>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-GB</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="false"
DefSemiHidden="false" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="382">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="footnote text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="header"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="footer"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="table of figures"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="envelope address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="envelope return"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="footnote reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="line number"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="page number"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="endnote reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="endnote text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="table of authorities"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="macro"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="toa heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Closing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Message Header"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Salutation"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Date"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Block Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Hyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="FollowedHyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Document Map"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Plain Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="E-mail Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Top of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Bottom of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal (Web)"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Acronym"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Cite"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Code"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Definition"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Keyboard"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Preformatted"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Sample"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Typewriter"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Variable"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal Table"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation subject"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="No List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Contemporary"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Elegant"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Professional"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Balloon Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Theme"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Level 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Level 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Level 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Level 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Level 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Level 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Level 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Level 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Level 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" QFormat="true"
Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="41" Name="Plain Table 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="42" Name="Plain Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="43" Name="Plain Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="44" Name="Plain Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="45" Name="Plain Table 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="40" Name="Grid Table Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="Grid Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="List Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="List Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="List Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Mention"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Smart Hyperlink"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0mm 5.4pt 0mm 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0mm;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;
mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-language:EN-US;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
<!--EndFragment--><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
…and, of course, the odd leopard.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXRgRVgvmSYUvFlmT2y1UHbjvL1yn9k__oD3UA4hiNiO2T67Lo2W_iZUnCiyZGMxtDxXk-hj1t84e_X7V0eTCo7lgdztwifh1czrV5YyouU_wIqoeRONuM-028S7PtGnzBCQJUew/s1600/IMG_0211.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="445" data-original-width="802" height="354" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXRgRVgvmSYUvFlmT2y1UHbjvL1yn9k__oD3UA4hiNiO2T67Lo2W_iZUnCiyZGMxtDxXk-hj1t84e_X7V0eTCo7lgdztwifh1czrV5YyouU_wIqoeRONuM-028S7PtGnzBCQJUew/s640/IMG_0211.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: x-small; text-align: justify;">© Penny Redman</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br /></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9888425.post-35095237643258127062015-07-06T17:37:00.000+00:002015-07-08T06:37:06.927+00:00Haut Chablais - June 2015<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib7Gxz7reJGY8UPeUDJJg7d5Ux9r8g2ZHUztxt27ZwRgFzzMlTjprCt705wUemMs0poFv15CuCb_W-vpLMfxy1UqJyMQBiIeTueRv6eYHeTBV_eLd8UpfcqI4gvJbacErjQFDnjw/s1600/P1150654.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib7Gxz7reJGY8UPeUDJJg7d5Ux9r8g2ZHUztxt27ZwRgFzzMlTjprCt705wUemMs0poFv15CuCb_W-vpLMfxy1UqJyMQBiIeTueRv6eYHeTBV_eLd8UpfcqI4gvJbacErjQFDnjw/s640/P1150654.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A chuff soars from the summit of les Cornettes de Bise, the highest summit of the Haut Chablais</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
After many years of clambering over high mountains and trekking some of the world's classic routes, it's easy to get complacent about the hills.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
So, the plan was to do some easy walking in the pretty alpine region of the Haut Chablais, the area just south of Lake Geneva (Lac Leman) with mountains a little over 2400m in height close to the French-Swiss border. A few hours a day, then a well-earned beer or two to rehydrate.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Yeh, right.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I hadn't reckoned on a heatwave (31C by 09:00 at 2000m, peaking at 34C a few hours later), nasty little biting flies known locally as <i>taon</i>, numerous paths wiped out by landslides (heavy rain accompanied the usual snow melt back in May), and a number of tracks now closed off by farmers and new ski lift and piste development. Châtel might be a paradise for skiers and mountain bikers, but walkers seem to take second-fiddle right now...</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNski-WP5bedZGbfBL7agJjpgXzxE1ltGS6H02irTT9bzdj7I2-Ozh8uAsN5N12WG3b2n5sWeSeFAHS3T1NepHaTaSA5JHJ-ESZxgkdd4wyNgEyrpjQzw9maN10Urv263NCmi3pA/s1600/morzine-summer-piste-map-704x400.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNski-WP5bedZGbfBL7agJjpgXzxE1ltGS6H02irTT9bzdj7I2-Ozh8uAsN5N12WG3b2n5sWeSeFAHS3T1NepHaTaSA5JHJ-ESZxgkdd4wyNgEyrpjQzw9maN10Urv263NCmi3pA/s640/morzine-summer-piste-map-704x400.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Ah, did I just mention mountain bikers? Yep, guess who was walking during the annual Pass'portes de Soleil three day event? The mountains were teeming with MTB riders, who, it is fair to say, were extremely careful passing us foot-driven types, flashing past with a cheery '<i>bonjour</i>' as they careered down the mountain. Hmmm. And three helicopters seen during the day of my climb up Mont de Grange meant that some of them didn't complete the weekend either. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
But, cosseted with the travel arrangements made by <a href="http://www.headwater.com/holidays/walking/france/W10HS.htm" target="_blank">Headwater</a>, the expert walking holiday company, with great family run hotels and luggage moved from point to point as I circumambulated the region, I was up for the challenge!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The first few days were spent walking from Les Gets to Lac de Montriond, and then on to Châtel. My route took in the summit of Mont Chéry 1826m (and, no, I didn't use the ski lifts...), steeply down to the Col de l'Encrenaz, and then down to the lovely little Hotel les Sapins, at the western end of Lac de Montriond. A good warm up, followed by a ridge route called the 'Super-Morzine,' albeit with a punishing descent through the forest later in the day.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4wda4rC6wVJKvXqH34U1C9kRejMByfk9TPUJV_veNwrdQuKp_H2fE8S3eHJwFRVeLgc0uWbMW2VcDi2NvmRKDLXO2Bq8VkHF5LYE8memuNIh3mGSy01oDmnJpjX75E0elXO3T-g/s1600/P1150256.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4wda4rC6wVJKvXqH34U1C9kRejMByfk9TPUJV_veNwrdQuKp_H2fE8S3eHJwFRVeLgc0uWbMW2VcDi2NvmRKDLXO2Bq8VkHF5LYE8memuNIh3mGSy01oDmnJpjX75E0elXO3T-g/s640/P1150256.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the ascent of Mont Chéry 1826m, Mont Blanc dominates the skyline</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5jX5HY37eJshTtPK48nhWo1YqaM2uR2_BZUKsvbRpOosFXIEB3N2Oe86uXvuhHcFawLCtd9wvhe9opsL9G1e6PUEauDtr16_wsI77X9KuImkIlNfhKCrywauKo53tI3dgSJi9_Q/s1600/P1150290.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5jX5HY37eJshTtPK48nhWo1YqaM2uR2_BZUKsvbRpOosFXIEB3N2Oe86uXvuhHcFawLCtd9wvhe9opsL9G1e6PUEauDtr16_wsI77X9KuImkIlNfhKCrywauKo53tI3dgSJi9_Q/s640/P1150290.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The remainder of the first day's walk seen from Mont Chéry, the valley above Montriond, bounded by Pointe de Nantoux to the north (left of centre)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrFo3-pi2bfq3Ksaajd1V2skuGgwIg277Yh6zBfvS77avRy16cQ91gvbsVLbVE21OyG_x1HLJMuZDwoUwSaTMy51Bk-oeXEPzYEB93hpApZAtnvQIfQP04AxPYXxu9qWIIJ_1cGQ/s1600/P1150325.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrFo3-pi2bfq3Ksaajd1V2skuGgwIg277Yh6zBfvS77avRy16cQ91gvbsVLbVE21OyG_x1HLJMuZDwoUwSaTMy51Bk-oeXEPzYEB93hpApZAtnvQIfQP04AxPYXxu9qWIIJ_1cGQ/s640/P1150325.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lac de Montriond</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT9Pji14NvN9Ybur5xHJ9xOmECdcNbWjIxLKTR7FOTtfUsCWEvwEMs6ZVYl9lRClzeornQCmaXBauCTn7aHlUHGleMMRvxNCPpy39jpHTg4GeX_zOIqZwHPym_ITUOQxyPhdzTCA/s1600/P1150331.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT9Pji14NvN9Ybur5xHJ9xOmECdcNbWjIxLKTR7FOTtfUsCWEvwEMs6ZVYl9lRClzeornQCmaXBauCTn7aHlUHGleMMRvxNCPpy39jpHTg4GeX_zOIqZwHPym_ITUOQxyPhdzTCA/s640/P1150331.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWrzey2fBLN7-zI9DIXynHeyZGotqeARu4K0uk_gI0gHuGiPA-olxVmIPq5ZIc7X_8wIRk2aU5-McY8o8cOsrg8Vd5qYDm3lHqx_aGev0MDCY4M2b2MGvFteqU0xWwXJnEw7mNwA/s1600/P1150349.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWrzey2fBLN7-zI9DIXynHeyZGotqeARu4K0uk_gI0gHuGiPA-olxVmIPq5ZIc7X_8wIRk2aU5-McY8o8cOsrg8Vd5qYDm3lHqx_aGev0MDCY4M2b2MGvFteqU0xWwXJnEw7mNwA/s640/P1150349.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lac de Montriond seen from the Belvedere (overlook at 1618m) off the Super Morzine trail</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;">
The route from Lac de Montriond takes you up beside more tempting ski lifts (again I eschewed these modern contraptions) and along the GR5 to the Col de Bassachaux, after which the summit of the Mont de Grange comes into view. It's an impressive hill and looks like a demanding route, but a couple of hours later I was enjoying the summit all to myself, a long hot climb to get up there and having crossed some old snow near the summit. Awesome views to Mont Blanc to the south east and the Dents du Midi, and, in the far distance the Swiss peaks of the Eiger, the Mönch and the Jungfrau, and Dent Blanche and the Matterhorn. Wonderful stuff, bringing back many happy memories.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Getting down to Châtel proved to be bit of a trial though. One path through the forest, used by farmers as a shortcut for their cattle, muddy (and well fertilised) and heavily rutted, and then, right at the end of the day, a path closed due to a landslide, adding another 40 minutes of walking in the heat. Hey ho... </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEbAKELOka5MPsVaucCw7Qao0PtQYc8yf1zSAaYFLq38MGJBK0z7bRAtcnI-PE1_3PEJpx_hlO3BBtvMzXYpoZ0PyMcT60ce9uqgI-AV0LpdZg9vgp9kI8iKnTiSBSVkf_DNqXng/s1600/P1150398.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEbAKELOka5MPsVaucCw7Qao0PtQYc8yf1zSAaYFLq38MGJBK0z7bRAtcnI-PE1_3PEJpx_hlO3BBtvMzXYpoZ0PyMcT60ce9uqgI-AV0LpdZg9vgp9kI8iKnTiSBSVkf_DNqXng/s640/P1150398.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lac de Montriond seen from the GR5 on the approach to Col de Bassachaux 1778m<span style="text-align: left;"> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWMU8AVt0zTMZ-qIGBdteNlPxjbI6zYJd4piwJtc0m9nS_vU59fRF-sCwfGwSOVmx1X7ub_jLnN0r32L2a-KYoJEqnAfMk2lxQZvCVNkcwAnA9P23ZpIRPDD7CTh6Z5Yx5M05JcA/s1600/P1150408.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWMU8AVt0zTMZ-qIGBdteNlPxjbI6zYJd4piwJtc0m9nS_vU59fRF-sCwfGwSOVmx1X7ub_jLnN0r32L2a-KYoJEqnAfMk2lxQZvCVNkcwAnA9P23ZpIRPDD7CTh6Z5Yx5M05JcA/s640/P1150408.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mont de Grange, which shares the accolade of Haut Chablais's highest summit with the les Cornettes de Bise, at 2432m</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBBq10SyBEe-HvhlKpTc2B2WWTK8g5H2OTlI5ZiFeqVkHFu1omNIQ_JseLbnFppDrmUUx7qIuwzcc4o_UHS8XBoUgHPwDJUq0YRqEHjtVyhZtgU3PbOVXEa2Y7mA_pMRMLWDJsNQ/s1600/P1150420.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBBq10SyBEe-HvhlKpTc2B2WWTK8g5H2OTlI5ZiFeqVkHFu1omNIQ_JseLbnFppDrmUUx7qIuwzcc4o_UHS8XBoUgHPwDJUq0YRqEHjtVyhZtgU3PbOVXEa2Y7mA_pMRMLWDJsNQ/s640/P1150420.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the start of the climb to Mont de Grange, looking east to Dents du Midi and Mont Blanc<span style="text-align: left;"> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUSzAiu7XYGQzRBcwXZaY9zdy3_aVgln1yJ5_D9snb3W08n7DV-QOr40N7lqAvGIzBN5wRqtzwRfZrhw7Uj2LKYhf_cg9jbRIAc6buPgsO_1skh-6wt9JNgD9q8rBMB-FZAouRrA/s1600/P1150443.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUSzAiu7XYGQzRBcwXZaY9zdy3_aVgln1yJ5_D9snb3W08n7DV-QOr40N7lqAvGIzBN5wRqtzwRfZrhw7Uj2LKYhf_cg9jbRIAc6buPgsO_1skh-6wt9JNgD9q8rBMB-FZAouRrA/s640/P1150443.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The steepest section of the summit path </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSr9fS0IWC9rRJBqqPGpBI3Iag5YoY7zNMVtyZ5CLz3kajn8tiQO0VW7C_6g8_wAnvl2HRXf2kGVtcBDoSg5EVx_qltsegvL_F5dmJJjcCy_McNVuJ2zpAOVc_sbJyUKY1VDuuOA/s1600/P1150461.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSr9fS0IWC9rRJBqqPGpBI3Iag5YoY7zNMVtyZ5CLz3kajn8tiQO0VW7C_6g8_wAnvl2HRXf2kGVtcBDoSg5EVx_qltsegvL_F5dmJJjcCy_McNVuJ2zpAOVc_sbJyUKY1VDuuOA/s640/P1150461.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Summit views, Mont de Grange 2432m</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpe8v9QH54yduDqJyXXCnuttyfI8NXI7t_Lq8deMGKAlaU7l5VaJQWXHgVohk_zJQVVKc_GhBP1vNA4s3uTvDX6L8sqwH65CHhgVdQlUkXRMVt2vJiJYVVgnevHUgofktty5m44w/s1600/P1150463.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpe8v9QH54yduDqJyXXCnuttyfI8NXI7t_Lq8deMGKAlaU7l5VaJQWXHgVohk_zJQVVKc_GhBP1vNA4s3uTvDX6L8sqwH65CHhgVdQlUkXRMVt2vJiJYVVgnevHUgofktty5m44w/s640/P1150463.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVVmYUD38DYahbbcSNi7dnhnF8kDYNT3OpOYuWK7nblzLxnBzSl09eWde7FLmExgx0b4uyTLWuEhnWQ211rlx8D2PhNbuz9cVbDtD0s_mLXcrNL2_VHtdoE2CXNeQGSa_BzbmBnw/s1600/P1150464.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVVmYUD38DYahbbcSNi7dnhnF8kDYNT3OpOYuWK7nblzLxnBzSl09eWde7FLmExgx0b4uyTLWuEhnWQ211rlx8D2PhNbuz9cVbDtD0s_mLXcrNL2_VHtdoE2CXNeQGSa_BzbmBnw/s640/P1150464.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Eiger. Mönch and Jungfrau seen from the summit of Mont de Grange</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNnWzZSf4_ziYlKnDfNS6fNE04PreDNuxTglLy3nOYl8tEBrpnewJnyMvNw4U_zXp0wY71OFDtUamxLI4xR36t5LYKIkGsForwWHzPpt_YQHDLRM96ldqyvJHki6eJUfHzAKWNSQ/s1600/P1150479.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNnWzZSf4_ziYlKnDfNS6fNE04PreDNuxTglLy3nOYl8tEBrpnewJnyMvNw4U_zXp0wY71OFDtUamxLI4xR36t5LYKIkGsForwWHzPpt_YQHDLRM96ldqyvJHki6eJUfHzAKWNSQ/s640/P1150479.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The final descent path into Châtel closed due to landslides, adding a 4km diversion </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A 'rest day' in Châtel had me clambering up local hills, although thwarted by new piste construction and new lift systems. And one local farmer who's decided he's had enough of walkers. I can think of better places to base yourself for walking in the Alps...<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl1QtJl-8DJBBayOWwA-gAREF6oO9Aw4zrk41TqjH0RkF4BZSaSJkskmc-oLBzXNOKc0x8Ji6zpcuMeZzZyn6MHiQ2cG-awcsPZVLiEmGGTzeVQCw3JRG62uCxsj-YqDxU6nCojw/s1600/P1150491.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl1QtJl-8DJBBayOWwA-gAREF6oO9Aw4zrk41TqjH0RkF4BZSaSJkskmc-oLBzXNOKc0x8Ji6zpcuMeZzZyn6MHiQ2cG-awcsPZVLiEmGGTzeVQCw3JRG62uCxsj-YqDxU6nCojw/s640/P1150491.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Châtel - a wonderland for sightseers, skiers and mountain bikers. But many paths for walkers closed and diverted here now :-(</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9vB8gXXpGu18zK54VCIlgNL1QhdNThVkwzTtJO87xNBaLDmT-WbPNw4-zUKLlc_P7mZIz_A1qZ8Kpd6Hip413vmilRTTBfOSBVSg-dOi0Wcn5HzKzEJYvOw6uK3F882xE1jx-5A/s1600/P1150507.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9vB8gXXpGu18zK54VCIlgNL1QhdNThVkwzTtJO87xNBaLDmT-WbPNw4-zUKLlc_P7mZIz_A1qZ8Kpd6Hip413vmilRTTBfOSBVSg-dOi0Wcn5HzKzEJYvOw6uK3F882xE1jx-5A/s640/P1150507.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mont de Grange seen from above Châtel</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
But, onwards! Leaving Châtel behind, an early start got me to the summit of Le Morclan 1970m, right on the French-Swiss border, and then followed a delightful ridge along it, scrambling over the Pointe des Ombrieux 1978m, before a long descent through alpine meadows lush with flowers to the little village of la Chapelle d'Abondance. Glorious walking, but the heat was starting to build by now.<br />
<div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw1l5V5eEV6QSn0gTcAP1YnGXjEppbYRXNCLOYZ_zhXm3qSSw6dk8cMhSh827bLOi4fEzrkIOQPYPDAKh9gr_dnBH4gm7c3en7aKTFlcrk8x1xNOzPsu6kktcFyzaflLcI5dpk1A/s1600/P1150515.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw1l5V5eEV6QSn0gTcAP1YnGXjEppbYRXNCLOYZ_zhXm3qSSw6dk8cMhSh827bLOi4fEzrkIOQPYPDAKh9gr_dnBH4gm7c3en7aKTFlcrk8x1xNOzPsu6kktcFyzaflLcI5dpk1A/s640/P1150515.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Route along the Swiss-French border seen from Le Morclan 1970m</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkamGomV9cfgijeQCpgocWzYTlAkh2nAw_IkCrjo2OB9SOS1Ypx0TF68sVSboEnrY2p1LFzkOWJGadnRx2r6Yy3zAmXXBrJhshyYvJEMibozD8HpPIZOB6X_ftnnFa2jtakN460Q/s1600/P1150521.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkamGomV9cfgijeQCpgocWzYTlAkh2nAw_IkCrjo2OB9SOS1Ypx0TF68sVSboEnrY2p1LFzkOWJGadnRx2r6Yy3zAmXXBrJhshyYvJEMibozD8HpPIZOB6X_ftnnFa2jtakN460Q/s640/P1150521.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alpine flowers in abundance, late June </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA6g4U2fVeD9sfbSoamJuI9NZZZk6tWtOmNzPVjIca6K4-wjqZ-0hNYXRH7rj3p9F1W2qCzbpp5Z70wQFcP8SOV_Kc_G9gFUYTEU-4Fzq5JTFvBzPywb0OC6b7jUO1GzwqGs_elA/s1600/P1150534.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA6g4U2fVeD9sfbSoamJuI9NZZZk6tWtOmNzPVjIca6K4-wjqZ-0hNYXRH7rj3p9F1W2qCzbpp5Z70wQFcP8SOV_Kc_G9gFUYTEU-4Fzq5JTFvBzPywb0OC6b7jUO1GzwqGs_elA/s640/P1150534.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Traverse of the Pointe des Ombrieux 1978m</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM5I-wBoY2Oo7-t9cbLR4t-O4eOSrU1VqunGqNsV1I0hJs5dAn9enV4LKBYn2xTma64GeT1U5UMfkUt_ybSA90vAPV0AxVx2h_D1eDTlTbvZs1LuIpa9USt-cqmXZwWKG0s8ffxw/s1600/P1150541.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM5I-wBoY2Oo7-t9cbLR4t-O4eOSrU1VqunGqNsV1I0hJs5dAn9enV4LKBYn2xTma64GeT1U5UMfkUt_ybSA90vAPV0AxVx2h_D1eDTlTbvZs1LuIpa9USt-cqmXZwWKG0s8ffxw/s640/P1150541.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">East face of Mont de Grange seen from the Swiss border</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
La Chapelle d'Abondance served as the base for a climb up les Cornettes de Bise, which, at the same altitude as Mont de Grange, 2432m, shares the accolade of being the region's highest summit. My route took me up some very steep forest paths to the hidden Lac d'Arvouin, along the challenging little path from Col de Serpentin (1832m) to Col de Vernaz (1615m), and then on to the lower grassy flanks of the main peak itself.<br />
At higher elevations, the route takes you up through outcrops of limestone, steep but never difficult, with the alpine route markers (white/red paint flashes on the rocks) helping you find your way up through the crags and avoiding some banks of old snow. This is a great summit, with airy views down to Lake Geneva, the Rhone valley far below, and a vast array of French and Swiss peaks.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX_J1m_GB-BJdnWpsFENNSBtO_IX_fcQ2kBukiuOzTdn-IYPj_ZTZTaU1etubbwUmBYnZar0AUfXyKu-vodBkT5T0WXYc1MZoPYxErayDu2I7P7i4LfhGQ0zs_-b1YXz_tu7UJTg/s1600/P1150571.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX_J1m_GB-BJdnWpsFENNSBtO_IX_fcQ2kBukiuOzTdn-IYPj_ZTZTaU1etubbwUmBYnZar0AUfXyKu-vodBkT5T0WXYc1MZoPYxErayDu2I7P7i4LfhGQ0zs_-b1YXz_tu7UJTg/s640/P1150571.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lac d'Arvouin at 1663m</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoqZqhbhxMVHdq9_rc_vZkFYjZsTUnUOxdr2soZ4KR_Kx0SK_JS4MDIyLgAMEWahSTB2Rmsiam1Cno-moR2COhonF7YAq0WgqO7u8kHyUjsPEBjL8-VoAfyUs12oK-wspuetdLpw/s1600/P1150576.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoqZqhbhxMVHdq9_rc_vZkFYjZsTUnUOxdr2soZ4KR_Kx0SK_JS4MDIyLgAMEWahSTB2Rmsiam1Cno-moR2COhonF7YAq0WgqO7u8kHyUjsPEBjL8-VoAfyUs12oK-wspuetdLpw/s640/P1150576.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tricky little section of path between the Col du Serpentin and the Col de Vernaz<span style="text-align: left;"> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtJ6l-5lH3CXav7MwCXMNQrR-WL4IIMBPdDSBGzc5OjyO82zmcX62a2fs4qdzYkgV__hY5OCc61f364piuZU2hNv3qtv3d8eJ6VRtfyTr-eej5MArC0UjtAYDBU6yQigseoBX6wg/s1600/P1150581.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtJ6l-5lH3CXav7MwCXMNQrR-WL4IIMBPdDSBGzc5OjyO82zmcX62a2fs4qdzYkgV__hY5OCc61f364piuZU2hNv3qtv3d8eJ6VRtfyTr-eej5MArC0UjtAYDBU6yQigseoBX6wg/s640/P1150581.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mont Blanc still commanding attention, from the approach to the Col de Vernaz</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsou0uEZNldeDl5sTtFl2qI7jj_jUQo4QW_dBePmtgbs71-nCJmbI5skniNsFTDgF5_vWgjI5_zsbm-pCe4dsD8VyxK3tSMxpN_f03cBEzslQpIWB42HOAxKc1u9usMyQBWWsK3w/s1600/P1150594.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsou0uEZNldeDl5sTtFl2qI7jj_jUQo4QW_dBePmtgbs71-nCJmbI5skniNsFTDgF5_vWgjI5_zsbm-pCe4dsD8VyxK3tSMxpN_f03cBEzslQpIWB42HOAxKc1u9usMyQBWWsK3w/s640/P1150594.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Col de Vernaz 1615m, seen from the first zig zag path on the ascent of les Cornettes de Bise</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOGAB_ENGEor7U6z2Rq3UzD4Rid0KT9GREo2GM4JCGkG1ZbmN34DUdsxQu9hn6nWxz0goKTxSsZBT1NCyXN4Jpzs9xMUwtwnF9hx4UyQM2csqXospBP4S02x1LQsnl5XXlllrIdg/s1600/P1150595.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOGAB_ENGEor7U6z2Rq3UzD4Rid0KT9GREo2GM4JCGkG1ZbmN34DUdsxQu9hn6nWxz0goKTxSsZBT1NCyXN4Jpzs9xMUwtwnF9hx4UyQM2csqXospBP4S02x1LQsnl5XXlllrIdg/s640/P1150595.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alpine glory on the approach to les Cornettes de Bise</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg-RW7D2uvRZJh-1JFZEzNBen__Kh2C6Xear-kf6KayWX7pYi9uKxqPwNxI189CopD9j0YUlkErgL5J249hgCSnilmofVA1jTD-T6_gizw3gbq_r6Zs5UVyCFzL94YbEnNQmXaNQ/s1600/P1150612.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg-RW7D2uvRZJh-1JFZEzNBen__Kh2C6Xear-kf6KayWX7pYi9uKxqPwNxI189CopD9j0YUlkErgL5J249hgCSnilmofVA1jTD-T6_gizw3gbq_r6Zs5UVyCFzL94YbEnNQmXaNQ/s640/P1150612.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The climb up to the summit of les Cornettes de Bise</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6ap71UM3BdhE0e0y7FFotg9ViQ0a41L0dXqSeT2oG0knLKmbTK3aFUarnWxclKn9EXkLPvZqgUbbOHBxv17R_ZP641fYIf3f83qQmSOQxEkviICwFVD_qAZhXkOK82oqJEQVjzQ/s1600/P1150629.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6ap71UM3BdhE0e0y7FFotg9ViQ0a41L0dXqSeT2oG0knLKmbTK3aFUarnWxclKn9EXkLPvZqgUbbOHBxv17R_ZP641fYIf3f83qQmSOQxEkviICwFVD_qAZhXkOK82oqJEQVjzQ/s640/P1150629.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The final rocky section of the path to the summit<span style="text-align: left;"> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijXVZ629sBisj320Frp6dCqlaH3eIFfkLAEgp4jSoNKVwqKATb-vj3WIG9q7s-T1hf4D6r3mdG0bO5b3RT61x5osl3SHxfj5xlV5Pcri6P2K1EptpWav3eypUFFBHKmCQF6QLGJA/s1600/P1150634.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijXVZ629sBisj320Frp6dCqlaH3eIFfkLAEgp4jSoNKVwqKATb-vj3WIG9q7s-T1hf4D6r3mdG0bO5b3RT61x5osl3SHxfj5xlV5Pcri6P2K1EptpWav3eypUFFBHKmCQF6QLGJA/s640/P1150634.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4Q_H7cfRObKwAd4nWeDNJJTp5ZKjmR5IqCuCmCpxiG3eFXUnSet20MlKRD1QhITT4Uu109tqvsNJFmoHQtfhP8KktxIFJL63mAwFxBCDdlKaYFwR3ahegR_5N8Q0dW9_XxNFXYw/s1600/P1150647.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4Q_H7cfRObKwAd4nWeDNJJTp5ZKjmR5IqCuCmCpxiG3eFXUnSet20MlKRD1QhITT4Uu109tqvsNJFmoHQtfhP8KktxIFJL63mAwFxBCDdlKaYFwR3ahegR_5N8Q0dW9_XxNFXYw/s640/P1150647.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Summit views from les Cornettes de Bise</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuoFZ5gzKQ9Kd8gNHEtEvJiWjtxoZizd7QU6PLgymGSPh7VmQlWOFkpzTjIgHH8aDe8GpVXo-UzS2rydzUxAL7nX0TZrKQZyeS4Ocu6zHkOPnv8sieX2T61W5H4abqnorYaDoP_g/s1600/IMG_0553.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="482" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuoFZ5gzKQ9Kd8gNHEtEvJiWjtxoZizd7QU6PLgymGSPh7VmQlWOFkpzTjIgHH8aDe8GpVXo-UzS2rydzUxAL7nX0TZrKQZyeS4Ocu6zHkOPnv8sieX2T61W5H4abqnorYaDoP_g/s640/IMG_0553.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKOpdxpQJGXU4tjjsLHum91QSgz3RhQciaVN2XajgNTEAfJoKveIiAlSq-RUqQesNtWuOEn1tGStFNUC9iPjTBFvR1q07W8jqdo6XN_dUq5o86eSD5QBrtcYMtOZigsrZRpggXAA/s1600/P1150651.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKOpdxpQJGXU4tjjsLHum91QSgz3RhQciaVN2XajgNTEAfJoKveIiAlSq-RUqQesNtWuOEn1tGStFNUC9iPjTBFvR1q07W8jqdo6XN_dUq5o86eSD5QBrtcYMtOZigsrZRpggXAA/s640/P1150651.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggyjBKTbK2jpCXvhQX-JUjEwsM6f6tp63fsaWG2BncgVHfXk1cUvloRJMHKLO4oJbY651dYBMUhXokObrI-vcwqqceTAn5MPCFZ9n75e-_OMg5dioSrI3sjr4C9brUzpJ48D9J8g/s1600/P1150657.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggyjBKTbK2jpCXvhQX-JUjEwsM6f6tp63fsaWG2BncgVHfXk1cUvloRJMHKLO4oJbY651dYBMUhXokObrI-vcwqqceTAn5MPCFZ9n75e-_OMg5dioSrI3sjr4C9brUzpJ48D9J8g/s640/P1150657.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chuffs patrol their domain</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6t3YcWxctyLm9HtqlfhpFEnYsXrbhThgXY0On2s3sy_h6CvOJw3ChbpG4XCqqugT_p1jB4okaLS8i-VzqXNB8Tacq5Bk7J80V54IauBsDrfxIH9EA5ESpNzHoiNCA_7FUe7uCLw/s1600/P1150680.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6t3YcWxctyLm9HtqlfhpFEnYsXrbhThgXY0On2s3sy_h6CvOJw3ChbpG4XCqqugT_p1jB4okaLS8i-VzqXNB8Tacq5Bk7J80V54IauBsDrfxIH9EA5ESpNzHoiNCA_7FUe7uCLw/s640/P1150680.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset from la Chapelle d'Abondnace</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
From la Chapelle d'Abondance a walk across the Col d'Ubine (although extreme heat deterred me from scrambling along the adjacent Pointe de Lachau ridge) brought me to the lovely little town of Abondance, with a couple of nights to spend at the delightful Hotel de l'Abbaye.</div>
<div>
From here I explored the high alpine pastures and forests around the Pointe des Follys, although the <i>taon</i> were out to get me that day, and my final big walk took me over to St-Jean-d'Aulps via the Col de Tavaneuse 1997m, followed by a very long descent down gravel tracks and then one of the steepest forest paths I have ever encountered, demanding knee surgery and a lot of beer at the other end ;-)<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCikDynsIEsQSvB9EGLtzwv_cds49weBGIVCGda5qflMqFdqduh0ThlZvyrHS1PR-sFAKV6ZstYPGVloN5vc3fqS5dZAsZ2unWTgaZRfgVJji3gSdg1HkrbOwRbGZMXJssf4zaiQ/s1600/P1150690.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCikDynsIEsQSvB9EGLtzwv_cds49weBGIVCGda5qflMqFdqduh0ThlZvyrHS1PR-sFAKV6ZstYPGVloN5vc3fqS5dZAsZ2unWTgaZRfgVJji3gSdg1HkrbOwRbGZMXJssf4zaiQ/s640/P1150690.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">les Cornettes de Bise seen from the approach to Col d'Ubine</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbmVYcmgcK6-PPucG_Yc8hcHF6Zpq337WJASbk-d9Y0uLG_PWeAahr1g6EIZVCLwGeBMgvJDFk6DLQxgCDOBMIv-ZPtbqw7F_kc0NRE2i79CbiElH5CCKDHaVTYc4aJ8l2g0FtQQ/s1600/P1150692.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbmVYcmgcK6-PPucG_Yc8hcHF6Zpq337WJASbk-d9Y0uLG_PWeAahr1g6EIZVCLwGeBMgvJDFk6DLQxgCDOBMIv-ZPtbqw7F_kc0NRE2i79CbiElH5CCKDHaVTYc4aJ8l2g0FtQQ/s640/P1150692.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Col d'Ubine 1694m below the north face of Mont Chauffe (2093m)<span style="text-align: left;"> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2eAvscJhECBAo7T8JBNDaY4VvClpcjQSGC02DFADlTshAHCihH2E5auAOCvVgiF8zhXbzycxcyEGIouFwZBATRz8oP6ccSBVe60J15SLPMEu9CIs7zCsxqV5DJL_FBXxk8ENgig/s1600/P1150719.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2eAvscJhECBAo7T8JBNDaY4VvClpcjQSGC02DFADlTshAHCihH2E5auAOCvVgiF8zhXbzycxcyEGIouFwZBATRz8oP6ccSBVe60J15SLPMEu9CIs7zCsxqV5DJL_FBXxk8ENgig/s640/P1150719.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Pointe de Lachau ridge to the left of the Col d'Ubine</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiprLY13dGyJIDwo0SfoKHe1_m-q-jZ4_g8e2ITwQvm8jFKJP9BWuFgn5Bvy7yXvk2cy70_uT46YaKs25BMhrB5yngmvLZg_89XPHrxgw2f3totFmTuyEr4asCD4gGwhdkAhyDk8w/s1600/P1150724.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiprLY13dGyJIDwo0SfoKHe1_m-q-jZ4_g8e2ITwQvm8jFKJP9BWuFgn5Bvy7yXvk2cy70_uT46YaKs25BMhrB5yngmvLZg_89XPHrxgw2f3totFmTuyEr4asCD4gGwhdkAhyDk8w/s640/P1150724.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Abondance</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2CuHtvaS5eESUfLXAPQzDzdfAvx_TixsQxoqcgHu2yQ3KJzwJWKOsDl9E2XBVS80ypAE5Jbuzg-Q1hl0VOtNa7RU6CXerYLLR7Rsb13MpICXkTqZv01U_vaonAhHEjFFUDhUuDA/s1600/P1150733.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2CuHtvaS5eESUfLXAPQzDzdfAvx_TixsQxoqcgHu2yQ3KJzwJWKOsDl9E2XBVS80ypAE5Jbuzg-Q1hl0VOtNa7RU6CXerYLLR7Rsb13MpICXkTqZv01U_vaonAhHEjFFUDhUuDA/s640/P1150733.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkjoHxREegnksA3RttlLgwifQebgW-prBOdZNtvEQAbePjiY295CTFrvn_pGMx8M01lNoO0cStGThMBVMlhM-AHYlIWriHUXXNxdqw2apbLEu6aMJfr2ad0PsfVsxDCcnW3QgBmA/s1600/P1150778.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkjoHxREegnksA3RttlLgwifQebgW-prBOdZNtvEQAbePjiY295CTFrvn_pGMx8M01lNoO0cStGThMBVMlhM-AHYlIWriHUXXNxdqw2apbLEu6aMJfr2ad0PsfVsxDCcnW3QgBmA/s640/P1150778.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Descent from the Col de Taveneuse 1997m, looking at the north face of the Pointe de Nantaux</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5Jm-GKhKMF03AnF4heyxMHIyJOcqCa9IKfWvfsM2DlmHZK1ToKCZaRJuUzDIdAgu47o9ZdMpKY3J8oefXNwD6_DpWzP7A2wyOEqgdSXnkb_yBEGIUmfJry3Hl7eqEAQDEkSRvPg/s1600/P1150780.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5Jm-GKhKMF03AnF4heyxMHIyJOcqCa9IKfWvfsM2DlmHZK1ToKCZaRJuUzDIdAgu47o9ZdMpKY3J8oefXNwD6_DpWzP7A2wyOEqgdSXnkb_yBEGIUmfJry3Hl7eqEAQDEkSRvPg/s640/P1150780.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View back to the Lac de Taveneuse from the Col de Taveneuse<span style="text-align: left;"> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCg3M-98-ydqQ5zMe7c-bLmq4ow-btNbbfMgrWlVfMujSae0gxsL6sxmws0ed_3UzqRQZkm1U4NtxjwhQmLDsfd_6rBO0WwmM8bactTrATFb7DQ7UaxhGY_hnaNPW_LRyuuJiaYg/s1600/P1150814.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCg3M-98-ydqQ5zMe7c-bLmq4ow-btNbbfMgrWlVfMujSae0gxsL6sxmws0ed_3UzqRQZkm1U4NtxjwhQmLDsfd_6rBO0WwmM8bactTrATFb7DQ7UaxhGY_hnaNPW_LRyuuJiaYg/s640/P1150814.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was a VERY steep forest descent to St-Jean-d'Aulps from Brion - the photograph does not do the steepness justice as it's foreshortened, but I won't be coming down that path ever again!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In summary, this is a great area for walking, as long as you choose your routes carefully. Paths are changing rapidly due to MTB and ski route development, so check with your hotel and local tourist information office before you set off. Definitely put the Mont de Grange and les Cornettes de Bise on your 'must do' list though!<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
</div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9888425.post-90920215055571009272015-05-24T15:03:00.001+00:002015-05-24T15:05:05.599+00:00Tibet Expedition 2015 - YouTube video<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="270" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/q0Eznt7h7Iw" width="480"></iframe></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9888425.post-11780847442667675242015-05-20T14:18:00.004+00:002015-05-30T07:32:04.837+00:00Tibet - April/May 2015<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="Body">
<b>'The greater the challenge, the greater the merit'<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="Body">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body">
And so we set off for Tibet. Within an hour, a call from our
airline, Etihad, suggested we abort our itinerary due to the 25 April
earthquake in Nepal, the epicentre just west of our first port of call,
Kathmandu. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
But we persisted, our passage through Kathmandu critical as this
was key to obtaining the all-important entry visa into Tibet. Flying via Abu
Dhabi, the omens seemed against us once more as we were held in a stack south
east of Kathmandu due to a major thunderstorm. Eventually landed, swiftly through
immigration, we then endured a one and a half hour wait to collect baggage, the
issue almost certainly shortage of staff due to the earthquake. Exiting into a
chaotic Arrivals hall, we were soon to discover that our transfer agent wasn't
there for us, Etihad having cancelled our scheduled flight from Abu Dhabi and
having put us on a slightly later one.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
Our group, facing the prospect of a damp, cold night in the
frenetic entrance lobby seemed remarkably stoic, an attribute that was to be
called upon many more times in this increasingly challenging adventure. But
then, after many attempts, we were able to secure hotel accommodation for the
night, the Shangri La, in Lazimpal, just north of the city centre. The next
challenge was to find a couple of taxis, only achieved by grim determination
and lots of US dollars in the face of stiff competition.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
Phew!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
The taxi journey was swift, two tiny cabs careering through
deserted streets, swerving around potholes created by the 7.8 level earthquake
hours earlier, and we were witness to large numbers of people sleeping under
awnings in front of their homes. At the Shangri La we all opted to sleep in our
rooms, despite a large number of guests electing to sleep under cover in the
hotel garden.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiBKqQktpnYII0A05Eywi7xJwkLBoa5I-ikaz82F4Ej1k3k0OteI6l0sHWbAe73HnP2AQwPVjyxdUQcSO1RbMRyyMYxrnFAmIgm8Hg7x1pFq4wPB6kQ02lz6qprG6fAEVxRP8hSQ/s1600/IMG_1473.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiBKqQktpnYII0A05Eywi7xJwkLBoa5I-ikaz82F4Ej1k3k0OteI6l0sHWbAe73HnP2AQwPVjyxdUQcSO1RbMRyyMYxrnFAmIgm8Hg7x1pFq4wPB6kQ02lz6qprG6fAEVxRP8hSQ/s640/IMG_1473.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tented cities spring up in Kathmandu as people continue to endure aftershocks</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi8pGzFJbnI5oZ0niLuwIyeykcF2yWxM2UEKPwhWIDW_cuEG3fI0k4A7m7XbsNvVmUE4mSrp0jbHNJvH0ywYq94O-I4oZG7KPwBTGkelYXEbI_65eh9beWuvLt8Et4wcKe5Hc_Mw/s1600/P1120847.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi8pGzFJbnI5oZ0niLuwIyeykcF2yWxM2UEKPwhWIDW_cuEG3fI0k4A7m7XbsNvVmUE4mSrp0jbHNJvH0ywYq94O-I4oZG7KPwBTGkelYXEbI_65eh9beWuvLt8Et4wcKe5Hc_Mw/s640/P1120847.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Damage following the first big earthquake</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio8hZ_9qqKPhMzH8GBuIzYvBnljcKzjrFCqb-Wt6YqL7mv29A-0OrXbwmu_vtUn-1-0vhF_7U-OPZyGRw6B9moGxoxGvnJ3QBUQADJSNezd6_iS2t5ovlTWpWSeWMMAN533rSQng/s1600/P1120878.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio8hZ_9qqKPhMzH8GBuIzYvBnljcKzjrFCqb-Wt6YqL7mv29A-0OrXbwmu_vtUn-1-0vhF_7U-OPZyGRw6B9moGxoxGvnJ3QBUQADJSNezd6_iS2t5ovlTWpWSeWMMAN533rSQng/s640/P1120878.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIx4HQyyFAgqqXr-fAp6Xx6ku0tnsIZEiTnGLY77KnJFQoCmKEqU-lt2UEWNLEM6spK8N9UK0gDFcNlnS3WmGwLdZ4NqXQEbjYgQmMY2Vm3KJRGaAlzAfjZRmmYrKHO_aor_gz6A/s1600/P1120918.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIx4HQyyFAgqqXr-fAp6Xx6ku0tnsIZEiTnGLY77KnJFQoCmKEqU-lt2UEWNLEM6spK8N9UK0gDFcNlnS3WmGwLdZ4NqXQEbjYgQmMY2Vm3KJRGaAlzAfjZRmmYrKHO_aor_gz6A/s640/P1120918.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji23XgMJoAEH4c0qLgX6QgGdKZvdqGoBF4QuRa4gh6NAv-iy96tZGZkRVevNUmhpwUjBwvg9PFrIVG-nKQhCfZgkdJDWTLdoNbQ7Sl_9576mmpNtFmo6ew8lq9oiTb2HF5DIDtNw/s1600/IMG_1489.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji23XgMJoAEH4c0qLgX6QgGdKZvdqGoBF4QuRa4gh6NAv-iy96tZGZkRVevNUmhpwUjBwvg9PFrIVG-nKQhCfZgkdJDWTLdoNbQ7Sl_9576mmpNtFmo6ew8lq9oiTb2HF5DIDtNw/s640/IMG_1489.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">5* sleepover at the Shangri La, Kathmandu</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body">
So, what a start!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
The next day we hooked up with our apologetic agent, toured a
little of the northern outskirts of the city, pulling in quick visits to
Boudhanath, Swayambunath and the hybrid Buddhist/Hindu temple of
Budhanilkantha, all deserted of the usual tourist throng, and locals having
shut up business for the next few days. More noticeable were the many
encampments springing up everywhere, people fearful of returning to their
homes.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
Our entry visa duly issued, we readied ourselves for an early
flight to Lhasa the next morning, although news later emerged that this flight
was probably going to be cancelled and our only option then was to transit via
Chengdu. Yet another challenge.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
Predictably, Kathmandu departures was a melee of visitors anxious
to get out of Nepal, notably Chinese citizens in the Chengdu queue next to
ours, tempers rising to a noisy crescendo. Surprisingly, we were checked in for
Lhasa, but then the real wait began, some eight hours or so, as all commercial
traffic was, quite rightly, rescheduled to accommodate huge military transports
from China, USA, Israel and other nations bringing in much needed aid.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimqaDkUopWYvBue6RXhpkAL0_BlG_Smb2lWTMX5eJg_CHMqyphojGU1_YD7WzUDMRDnyzINAAxfL-U1d-D3MV5D2y_9JBMYvivKDhhokwUVngx-V5AlHV60nHScPeJdWrgNfV6ow/s1600/IMG_1499.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimqaDkUopWYvBue6RXhpkAL0_BlG_Smb2lWTMX5eJg_CHMqyphojGU1_YD7WzUDMRDnyzINAAxfL-U1d-D3MV5D2y_9JBMYvivKDhhokwUVngx-V5AlHV60nHScPeJdWrgNfV6ow/s640/IMG_1499.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Superpowers bring aid to Kathmandu</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body">
Doubts increased during the afternoon as to whether we'd ever get
to Lhasa, when suddenly, late afternoon, we were boarded on our Air China
flight. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
But we never got to Lhasa. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
Another challenge. We were going to Chengdu, a three hour flight,
and would be accommodated in a hotel for a few hours before taking an early
morning flight to Lhasa. This unscheduled excursion did end in success,
however. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
Emerging into the early morning air of Gongkar airport, an hour
south of Lhasa, having enjoyed the spectacle of the mountain terrain west of
Chengdu, we were now in the hands of our Tibetan agents, and our adventure
could begin in earnest.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
Or so we thought. It quickly became apparent that the Nepalese
earthquake had affected the Everest and Shishapangma regions of south-west
Tibet, and that our itinerary was going to have to change.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
Now, from this point onwards, this account is going to differ
from my usual format. Because, this blog is about challenges. And if you have
romantic notions about travelling through this vast area I might as well spell
them all out at the beginning. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
Tibet, as you may well know, was invaded by the Chinese between
1950 and 1959, and the hapless citizens were then exposed to the worst excesses
of the Cultural Revolution, leading many to go into exile, and for everyone
across both China and Tibet, untold suffering. Tibet, of course, was always
going to be vulnerable to the expansionist policies of its closest neighbour,
and the theocracy that had ruled the country for centuries had isolated itself
from the international arena and the modernisation that had inevitably followed
the Industrial Revolution. Tibetans lived a mediaeval existence, primarily
engaged in the production of barley, the staple diet for centuries, and the
raising of yak, sheep and goats for milk, curd, cheese, meat and skins.
Infrastructure was rudimentary and the key activity of the common people was to
support the monasteries and the aristocracy who ruled the country.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
So Mao had an easy target, and the legacy of the Chinese invasion
is all too plain to see right up to the present day. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
Of course, there are positives. Given the high altitude terrain
and the persistence of snow on the highlands for much of the year, Tibet now
has an impressive road network, world beating telecommunications and internet
access (where else in the world can you get 3G on a remote 5000m pass?),
standardised education and health care. But there's a cost.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
China does not like regional autonomy. It hates the West's
continued cry for human rights in Tibet. It abhors the so-called 'splittist'
activity of the Dalai Lama (a gentle soul loved throughout the international
arena, and himself accepting that there is no going back to an independent
Tibet). As a result the people of Tibet are amongst the most rigidly controlled
groups in the world. That's the price they have to pay for modernisation. A
deeply spiritual people, most seem to accept it with the resignation that you
would expect of a devout Buddhist - all things are impermanent, live as good a
life as you can in this one, and karma will transport you to a better existence
in the next life. But the control pervades every aspect of their existence -
freedom of movement between areas needing permits in many cases, little freedom
to travel abroad, the education system enforcing Chinese as the first language,
controls on the number of monks occupying monasteries, CCTV monitoring in the
major towns, and strong military presence almost everywhere. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkuNHkST2UpjbsjYkZA_Givwt0C86PF6Rd9j7YKxCH13Av_pZ9_8dB-fy-RWzvYSrg5_tab_aJ1j3lBd6JHRaMfM9zgfNTCLHal83XQPfEh_mwN9YkPkaK1QRSmI41qneFl_JIpA/s1600/P1130026.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkuNHkST2UpjbsjYkZA_Givwt0C86PF6Rd9j7YKxCH13Av_pZ9_8dB-fy-RWzvYSrg5_tab_aJ1j3lBd6JHRaMfM9zgfNTCLHal83XQPfEh_mwN9YkPkaK1QRSmI41qneFl_JIpA/s640/P1130026.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tibetans remain deeply religious people who live under the cloud of constant surveillance by the Chinese authorities</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmrm0RlScLOtuyh7hBGJD23ewUmKratDswWDan7ZLeCWDRDY_dLq2mgsvb5S4KkJC5lJhevOIjYFl1PV0pGZMUnHsPshvPTei2EFKLz5sT3roRxpmk4RHiIqbFkLBshrzeSmcQjg/s1600/P1130030.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmrm0RlScLOtuyh7hBGJD23ewUmKratDswWDan7ZLeCWDRDY_dLq2mgsvb5S4KkJC5lJhevOIjYFl1PV0pGZMUnHsPshvPTei2EFKLz5sT3roRxpmk4RHiIqbFkLBshrzeSmcQjg/s640/P1130030.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body">
And, as a visitor, you will get to feel how it is to be a local.
Don't dare bring a picture of the Dalai Lama into the country, or a Tibetan
flag. Don't even think of venturing to Tibet unaccompanied, as it is mandatory to
have a guide, and don't expect to wander at will. Our itinerary, which included
the western regions of Tibet, with a pilgrimage around Mount Kailas and an
exploration of the ancient Kingdom of Guge, required a standard visitors permit
for Lhasa, an 'alien's permit' for travel beyond Lhasa, and military clearance
to visit the western regions. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
We were warned that in the towns, we could expect to be shadowed
by Chinese security services, to check we did not do or say anything that was
in contravention of their policy, not least don't dare talk about the Dalai
Lama. And when you get out on the road, don't expect to get anywhere fast.
Heading west from Lhasa to Shigatse, and then further west to the Ngari region,
a distance of some 1500km to our final destination of Tsaparang, a speed limit
of 40 kph is rigidly enforced. Regular police checkpoints require the driver to
produce his license, and a time of arrival is stamped on a permit, the elapsed
time at the next checkpoint then used to assess the average speed driven. Stiff
fines and penalty points are levied for contravention. 40kph. Absolutely
ridiculous. These are some of the emptiest roads on the planet.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2n_QtDrESHHKvgwD-CqTxsqgof9oOLBbZhcinXOBzFqk1P3mANK2it4U1Ie-arVPFpVsXH3WPd81X-qdghiLPxSJhm4YJAxTMwLdWlIidn9HAfkL9Y9gZcallvuhGb7M6r_TOdg/s1600/P1130956.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2n_QtDrESHHKvgwD-CqTxsqgof9oOLBbZhcinXOBzFqk1P3mANK2it4U1Ie-arVPFpVsXH3WPd81X-qdghiLPxSJhm4YJAxTMwLdWlIidn9HAfkL9Y9gZcallvuhGb7M6r_TOdg/s640/P1130956.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">West of Shigatse the roads empty, yet a speed limit of 40 kph is rigidly enforced</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Sorry to sound
cynical, but I rather suspect that this is just another technique to dissuade
visitors from venturing too far from the suspicious eyes of the Chinese
security services. And, of course, at other key checkpoints we were required to
present our (now invaluable) entry/exit permit and passports, together with the
relevant permit to travel, a process usually left to our indomitable guide, but
sometimes requiring us to be inspected by an army officer. Happily, they were
usually pleasant, but what a palaver. And, when in the more sensitive areas,
our presence was then recorded and monitored by the PSB, the Public Security
Bureau. We were even required to sign a disclaimer when entering Darchen, at
the base of Mount Kailas, ensuring that we did not hold the authorities
responsible if we were to succumb to some unfortunate event whilst
circumambulating Mount Kailas.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnpqkChYisleh_fmPIzujT9VM_mSCjl85pnfiC4gr4kr9yZSLojKr3FTl7WUKpjbQhLqw8jhZIrXO5HT_aD-zFfIlJmAEUF5o38V_sXwqaa8k9Fi6bpq5fRe3qox297AT5hFmc2A/s1600/P1150019.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="446" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnpqkChYisleh_fmPIzujT9VM_mSCjl85pnfiC4gr4kr9yZSLojKr3FTl7WUKpjbQhLqw8jhZIrXO5HT_aD-zFfIlJmAEUF5o38V_sXwqaa8k9Fi6bpq5fRe3qox297AT5hFmc2A/s640/P1150019.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of some twenty or so checkpoints we had to stop at on the 1500km journey from Lhasa to Guge in western Tibet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body">
Of course, don't let any of that put you off. A good local agent
and guide will see to most of this nonsense, but there's a few other things
that you might want to be aware of before you pack your bags. Tibetans have
never been known for their cleanliness. And local 'long drop' toilet facilities
are <i>de rigeure</i>, ubiquitous outside the main towns, and guesthouses will
usually have no internal facilities, residents having to rely on visits to an
outside block. I should also mention that these blocks have no private
cubicles. Instead a low wall separates one from your fellow human being, the
required position being to squat low and do one's business. If joined by a
local, expect an inquiring look/stare and clouds of cigarette smoke. Oh, and
that's for the ladies as well as the gents.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
The facilities are rarely, if ever cleaned, and we found tons of
litter in some, snow drifts in another, and of course, previous deposits from
fellow humans with a poor aim. Lovely.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXhl6jNUK3JM2NyDLcIHiagjb_5MS5h2Nt9fT76yESMx6TONK0GyEUCZwZQCmCu1X5nJkHhtdWRqjJUl3F7OlCjpSnHjg0zyEBfN_hkQsxDl7UXLQOQDSgEHMr_PQSy5XjECUIRw/s1600/P1140790.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXhl6jNUK3JM2NyDLcIHiagjb_5MS5h2Nt9fT76yESMx6TONK0GyEUCZwZQCmCu1X5nJkHhtdWRqjJUl3F7OlCjpSnHjg0zyEBfN_hkQsxDl7UXLQOQDSgEHMr_PQSy5XjECUIRw/s640/P1140790.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the better 'long-drop' toilets, this one with a fine view (at Tsaparang)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body">
I should also mention accommodation. Our hotels in Lhasa, Gyantse
and Shigatse were fine, although a consistent theme is one of dodgy plumbing.
Showers rarely work in the way they're intended, availability of hot water
variable, and flushes may not work effectively. There seems to be a singular
lack of plumbing skills in this region. But these places will seem like the
height of luxury once you've ventured further out and experienced the delights
of the Tibetan guesthouse. Some are fine, with genial hosts who rush to supply
you with a thermos of hot water on arrival and provide cold water for flushing
interior toilets. Well, I can think of one like that.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
Most guest houses are far more basic. External toilets, usually
filthy and full of litter, are the norm, one memorable location in Tholing using
the adjacent public toilet. This meant that during the night you had the
pleasure of running the gauntlet of local dogs and random drunks emptying from
the music venue conveniently located nearby. And in the Kailas region the guest
house owners have cleverly exploited the recent ban on camping on the kora
around the mountain by charging for all of the beds in any one room, typically
four or five, even if it's occupied by just one person. So, be warned. Even in
the hotels beds rarely have much padding. Basically, it's like sleeping on a
brick. So, pack a Thermarest or equivalent mattress, and a silk liner with
sleeping bag are invaluable as there is no heating in guest houses (and hotels
are not much better).<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipG4aDE0Q1ge8WG2PjMK0EMvgStLJ8ZSdrVC8ScvSnoR-nzijkfu9qRwqCF15WpHJPR1_ZoUOHYWOnsn4cUGfuXnla1z6VIXw3PPfiPGCsDgmO9SFBNTmkZMi1f17pYCF3pR4TIw/s1600/P1140315.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipG4aDE0Q1ge8WG2PjMK0EMvgStLJ8ZSdrVC8ScvSnoR-nzijkfu9qRwqCF15WpHJPR1_ZoUOHYWOnsn4cUGfuXnla1z6VIXw3PPfiPGCsDgmO9SFBNTmkZMi1f17pYCF3pR4TIw/s640/P1140315.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sensible use of a skip (!), seen on the final day of our kora around Kailas returning towards Darchen</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9zRVqfpScU9mUzxYaATk0rQq_CLKSQPnJMVQU1k8RKxJuTIwWz0PGwqNk017oOqAB1WAXJkr1wL0N91r7UHol2A6IK8jRuKtOAr7ZNhloGxirY8q259-G0Q_pNsxt6eIyATCV5g/s1600/P1140618.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9zRVqfpScU9mUzxYaATk0rQq_CLKSQPnJMVQU1k8RKxJuTIwWz0PGwqNk017oOqAB1WAXJkr1wL0N91r7UHol2A6IK8jRuKtOAr7ZNhloGxirY8q259-G0Q_pNsxt6eIyATCV5g/s640/P1140618.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Guesthouse room in Tholing, one CCTV channel in English and mattress like a brick. That's OK, but the sanitation relied on the adjacent public toilet... The hosts were really nice though.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body">
Food is generally safe, and the best choice usually comes from
the Chinese community, our guide pointing to those previously used, and
presumably offering him a good incentive. But, there's an overall monotony once
you venture further afield. I suppose it says it all when most of the
population drink butter tea, 3% beer (Lhasa Beer or watered down Budweiser the
most commonly available) and enjoy a paste of roasted barley flour called
tsampa. You will initially enjoy momos, steamed or fried, noodles of various
persuasions, and egg fried rice. After a week you'll be dreaming of roast beef,
Yorkshire Puddings and real ale. Veggies, make up your own fantasy list.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
And one last thing, if you've read this far. They're noisy
buggers. Every settlement, however small, has its own pack of dogs. Benign and
vaguely cuddly during the day, the packs assemble and roam at night, seeing who
can produce the most irritating bark for longest, whilst simultaneously
contesting leadership of the pack. Expect at least three circuits of your
accommodation per night. And then there's the local populace. They like to
party. Late. Almost every night of our journey, some inconsiderate jerk would
talk loudly outside our rooms, unless they were on a motorbike with a portable
stereo blaring away, or singing at the top of their tuneless voice in the local
karaoke bar. Yes, bring good earplugs. More important than your walking boots!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
OK, I've vented my spleen. After three weeks of bureaucratic
frustration and uncertainty, nausea at the sight of another momo, and another
disturbed night, it's inevitable. But the rewards are HUGE.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
Firstly, the people. Your first experience is likely to be the
elderly citizens who walk clockwise around the Barkhor, the circumambulation of
the revered Jokhang Temple in the old city of Lhasa. Their skin, heavily wrinkled
and darkened by years of exposure to the acutely high UV levels at this
altitude (Lhasa at 3650m being one of the lowest points of the Tibetan
plateau), their dress of heavy fabrics, ladies adorned with jewellery handed
down through the generations, prayer beads or prayer wheels in hand, with the
pervasive murmur of <i>Om Mani Pad Me Hum, </i>the mantra which repeated many
thousands of times seems sure to give the practitioner hope of a better future
life. A simple smile or the standard Tibetan greeting '<i>Tashi Dalek</i>'
(pronounced "tashi daley") will usually elicit a warm response, even
more so now as Western tourists are significantly outnumbered by Chinese, many
of whom now travel to Lhasa on the pressurised train from Beijing. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0hg4DF_1L_Lc5jTdWXHqzj_4FSFM6VJu_pS7pQp1AWMZEe3nI0xpRY0hp9kQs77AvXru0yxxm03puGBUrgIddXesZ2wvbg3eJJeGU6Ecmz-O0qS6-gu0TPgUh1EHy_jWrZfJ7IQ/s1600/P1130318.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0hg4DF_1L_Lc5jTdWXHqzj_4FSFM6VJu_pS7pQp1AWMZEe3nI0xpRY0hp9kQs77AvXru0yxxm03puGBUrgIddXesZ2wvbg3eJJeGU6Ecmz-O0qS6-gu0TPgUh1EHy_jWrZfJ7IQ/s640/P1130318.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Friendly ladies at the teahouse adjacent to Drikung Thil</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body">
Then there's the many monasteries and temples belonging to the
various sects of Tibetan Buddhism, each with different lineages and a
bewildering array of Buddhas, Bodhisattvas, meditational deities (called
yidams) and fearsome 'Protectors.' The artwork on the walls of the various temples,
some dating to the 11th century in the case of Tholing, is complex and
difficult to interpret to the non-practitioner but never ceases to interest and
amaze even the most indifferent of observer. Usually dimly lit with random
electric light bulbs and the ubiquitous butter lamps, the potentially austere
atmosphere is lifted by colourful silk banners, golden statutes of the main
deities, and torma offerings, sculpted coloured butter on a clay or tsampa
base. On several occasions we were able to witness monks in prayer sessions
and, in one, memorable, visit to Ganden, the principal monastery of the Gelukpa
order, we were able to observe their celebration of the auspicious fifteenth of
the lunar month. Chanting, led by the distinctive deep-throat chant of the
chief lama, was accompanied by the presentation of gifts of the white silk
scarves called khata, and other ritual offerings.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXa1FMEdsFkx2CUlluNJiJYUQ0jLXemuE925FUga-EPjCKYa0vrgA9AmzXFSee1Kkx3hK-x5RXKTjCVK957qoom-C161wg98qo5FprA8savvL9wNsoPj4_BK3TWLUE2D5puqijFA/s1600/P1130463.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXa1FMEdsFkx2CUlluNJiJYUQ0jLXemuE925FUga-EPjCKYa0vrgA9AmzXFSee1Kkx3hK-x5RXKTjCVK957qoom-C161wg98qo5FprA8savvL9wNsoPj4_BK3TWLUE2D5puqijFA/s640/P1130463.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monks celebrating an auspicious day in the Tibetan calendar, Ganden Monastery</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaJPhyphenhyphendbiVOCEOlZY2sZINf0nFFvc8Ofqbe442g6O_xhYeaxGZL5y5FV7vm0CD-SHPnaQIl_s3ucgwApTONoXIXQ2MMg-AXS7SpFpIfLN6-0CvD0qiGMR_m24XHuGjYr4zCOKJhg/s1600/P1130468.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaJPhyphenhyphendbiVOCEOlZY2sZINf0nFFvc8Ofqbe442g6O_xhYeaxGZL5y5FV7vm0CD-SHPnaQIl_s3ucgwApTONoXIXQ2MMg-AXS7SpFpIfLN6-0CvD0qiGMR_m24XHuGjYr4zCOKJhg/s640/P1130468.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'Yellow Hat' monks of the Gelugpa order, Ganden</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3pEm08u43rKSUXFtzctMgoVPcISmMGV8swNpSYKWFYXmWIVX0ZLdaxfNhAeZzd76oC2r7c5yFv_bydc_SxB_gWj2UPXFgeCP-7RVzJC29gHOCZKo90n4eKEWflUsR798FesZpjg/s1600/P1130665.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3pEm08u43rKSUXFtzctMgoVPcISmMGV8swNpSYKWFYXmWIVX0ZLdaxfNhAeZzd76oC2r7c5yFv_bydc_SxB_gWj2UPXFgeCP-7RVzJC29gHOCZKo90n4eKEWflUsR798FesZpjg/s640/P1130665.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two of the 'Worldly Protectors' - Kumbum, Gyantse</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5n8ghDGKBaTp4Fkk7_LdHZBQYyeISsqgkiPwrwIYTvfyPrqWhcb0-ROdW1kFbkc_VS4xJglVXKxoSOTw1QBrQDcNEttCP874WHHbTRDeEkTul2E2OFXOulO2zHaJkel4Ba0VbNA/s1600/P1130663.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5n8ghDGKBaTp4Fkk7_LdHZBQYyeISsqgkiPwrwIYTvfyPrqWhcb0-ROdW1kFbkc_VS4xJglVXKxoSOTw1QBrQDcNEttCP874WHHbTRDeEkTul2E2OFXOulO2zHaJkel4Ba0VbNA/s640/P1130663.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wrathful deity, Kumbum, Gyantse</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body">
And then there's the landscape. Tibet is a huge country,
occupying about one third of modern China's footprint. Most of it lies above
5000m, so acclimatisation in lower areas like Lhasa (at about 3650m) is
essential before one ventures far from the city. To give an example, travelling
from Saga to Guge, you will never be below 4500m, and on several passes you
will experience the thin air of 5000m+. We visited during May, so the main
passes were clear of snow, although on the highest ones there was a great deal
of snow banked up following the passage of snow ploughs. We experienced light
snow showers on a number of occasions, and when walking the three day kora
around Mount Kailas we spent most of day two carefully traversing slopes of
hard packed snow, great in the morning when it was firm, but requiring much
greater care in the afternoon as the intense heat of the sun caused the snow to
melt, some of our number sinking groin deep at times on the descent from the
5650m pass of Dromla La. Our guide said that the snow at this level would
normally have completely disappeared by July. But the snow gave the landscapes
we passed through an extra character, especially as much of Tibet's landscape
tends to have a ubiquitous brown hue.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><o:p></o:p><br />
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtLO9QWfyJEOeWlVspHPROGwaLCmFbmEqQKHJbsMAOqGLc2fnSlSYVj_kri1r_JR-3Q59wsPOBu4MC1NpUb99fPeTeb9FDtAw4V0inY_TAbN7JFMuZrj_fNN5cYVcOvsbH3ZFqQA/s1600/P1140238.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtLO9QWfyJEOeWlVspHPROGwaLCmFbmEqQKHJbsMAOqGLc2fnSlSYVj_kri1r_JR-3Q59wsPOBu4MC1NpUb99fPeTeb9FDtAw4V0inY_TAbN7JFMuZrj_fNN5cYVcOvsbH3ZFqQA/s640/P1140238.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the approach to Drolma La, already over 5000m. Kailas' northern eastern face in the background</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZj1JK_d8wIFXe434zhsW9usEL3EOvTlqqQKkQPDrh5Y4DC1Iji5qGqBNLeeXiYSHY92W8yIP8WyNnlso_tnXpulWsH6QtD4yh7WGqsuQKg8hyphenhyphenRJdFg1a_do4PpBTb9Wwkm3IYRA/s1600/P1140402.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZj1JK_d8wIFXe434zhsW9usEL3EOvTlqqQKkQPDrh5Y4DC1Iji5qGqBNLeeXiYSHY92W8yIP8WyNnlso_tnXpulWsH6QtD4yh7WGqsuQKg8hyphenhyphenRJdFg1a_do4PpBTb9Wwkm3IYRA/s640/P1140402.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entering Zanda, from the road into Guge, western Tibet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5lS-0FxK_5u7UDx3unN9oo2W9VMLs7xy0zafbttpEhjRt0jYlGbLN93J6atBjzxg6qJCgtcUA1MkX_iciyf5VZ672-N9V0SAWQJ0bHUDOUGumyS4sH1vNp7MUFQQf8cfI0mWC8A/s1600/P1140485.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5lS-0FxK_5u7UDx3unN9oo2W9VMLs7xy0zafbttpEhjRt0jYlGbLN93J6atBjzxg6qJCgtcUA1MkX_iciyf5VZ672-N9V0SAWQJ0bHUDOUGumyS4sH1vNp7MUFQQf8cfI0mWC8A/s640/P1140485.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View to the Garhwal Himalaya of India, across the Sutlej canyon lands - from the road to Tholing (Tada) </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body">
Travelling from Shigatse west to Kailas and Guge, a distance
greater than the latitudinal spread of Nepal, the sights are glorious, with the
bounding peaks of Sikkim and the Nepalese Himalaya filling the southern skyline
on many stretches, the most impressive that of the Gorakh Himal on the section
of high road from Drongpa to Lake Manasarovar. The distinctive snow dome of
Nanda Devi 7816m emerges on the horizon as you transit south from Montser. Even
further west, taking the new road from Bauer to Tholing in Guge, the peaks of
the Garhwal Himalaya reveal themselves above the spectacular rock formations of
the canyons formed by the Sutlej river as it winds its way down from its source
near Lake Manasarovar to eventually enter the mighty Indus River and eventually
the Arabian Sea.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPFqTxZAB_monRgbyMH7tSo-_hXmot-yDl91OdMVczh9F_7hi4TvUeN4XeS5gJyYAKmY8zcirqQdrNE4pYsz8TgUZux2UWWMPxOtkyAtLpdKBMHF7FaLmb_SE0egtvt-EWH-Tp4g/s1600/P1130999.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPFqTxZAB_monRgbyMH7tSo-_hXmot-yDl91OdMVczh9F_7hi4TvUeN4XeS5gJyYAKmY8zcirqQdrNE4pYsz8TgUZux2UWWMPxOtkyAtLpdKBMHF7FaLmb_SE0egtvt-EWH-Tp4g/s640/P1130999.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gurla Mandhata, 6694m, to the south of the sacred Lake Manasarovar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
Most of the time, the roads use wide
river valleys to make progress, bounded by endless hills and mountains of
weatherbeaten brown rock and soil, sometimes punctuated by patches of shrub,
crystal clear pools and small nomad encampments, usually with a herd of yak or
sheep nearby. This is an isolated life, fundamentally unchanged in centuries,
their small huts providing a year round base and yak skin tents their mobile
home to exploit summer pasture at higher levels. Some wildlife is also
occasionally seen on this barren plateau, not a tree in sight to provide cover.
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
On our visit we observed fox, wolf,
blue sheep, marmot type creatures known as mountain rats by the locals, small deer and wild ass. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9365wLeDGSjN-e8QXofdJMq-OymUYZfbbIirRYxBfmszGPUD_H6DMqvbUnG25E_IriCSv7odKN6GNl2dFLeNaw4ozEF8rBZk3BNAdM40zGk453D4lLX1MKddFab0a-_lUzszPUw/s1600/P1130911.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9365wLeDGSjN-e8QXofdJMq-OymUYZfbbIirRYxBfmszGPUD_H6DMqvbUnG25E_IriCSv7odKN6GNl2dFLeNaw4ozEF8rBZk3BNAdM40zGk453D4lLX1MKddFab0a-_lUzszPUw/s640/P1130911.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nonchalence from a wolf spotted en route from Saga to Darchen</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
And vultures. On one of our
acclimatisation walks we were in the rare position to observe a sky burial.
Whilst taking a few hours to walk from Pabonka monastery to Chu Tsang nunnery
we passed above Lhasa's main sky burial site at a time when the body of a<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>deceased person was being crushed and cut up
ready for the vultures to devour. Still the predominant form of burial for
Tibetans, this was a rare and very humbling sight.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxYN4OBLAICu7p4dr8Exl2yr4Ilcu16L1n2KGfTIgbCVxsHfOGtkyHoNtbgT28w5Liv6s8hN4ZdtNGG6DMcL7nTpGlHsSEILyDlkER92cSajrbtuC7piR6joUSfQR4Vd23bBBQmw/s1600/P1130200.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxYN4OBLAICu7p4dr8Exl2yr4Ilcu16L1n2KGfTIgbCVxsHfOGtkyHoNtbgT28w5Liv6s8hN4ZdtNGG6DMcL7nTpGlHsSEILyDlkER92cSajrbtuC7piR6joUSfQR4Vd23bBBQmw/s640/P1130200.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the pilgrim's circuit from Pa Bong Kha monastery to Chu Tsang nunnery, having just witnessed a sky burial</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
So what of our itinerary? In a break
from the usual format of my travel blogs, I'm not going to go into a day by day
detailed account, given that a trip of over three weeks would be tedious to
write, and too long for you to read.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
Our early days in Tibet, initially a
team of six, were spent acclimatising around Lhasa, taking in the classic
sights of the huge Potala Palace, the Jokhang Temple and walking the <i>Barkhor
</i>around it, watching the monks in open debate at Sera Monastery and enjoying
the palaces of the Norbulingka summer palace park. We also made time to visit
the Ramoche temple, just north of the Barkhor. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
As noted above we trekked the Pha Bong
Kha (Pabonka) circuit, 8km north of the city, before venturing 120km north-east
to base ourselves at the hot springs just below Terdrum Nunnery for a couple of
days. From here we explored the large complex of Drikung Thil, the mother
monastery of the Drikung Kagyu order. It was here that we encountered the
preliminaries of another sky burial, the deceased in a white shroud in the
middle of the main courtyard surrounded by a senior lama leading other monks in
prayer. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM2HhBxwPpLpSjOgc0_9RcsfyV18Z3fcmF9KLRD6KPv39sKeiaym5L2o3l-n5BC0BqV0ArQUn2wA_uAcS__MlLciIFi782zQ0rEI7_kOgFEjdjZu0hAKPHV6CKCemfllppXq1BNw/s1600/Lhasa+Circuit.tiff" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="350" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM2HhBxwPpLpSjOgc0_9RcsfyV18Z3fcmF9KLRD6KPv39sKeiaym5L2o3l-n5BC0BqV0ArQUn2wA_uAcS__MlLciIFi782zQ0rEI7_kOgFEjdjZu0hAKPHV6CKCemfllppXq1BNw/s640/Lhasa+Circuit.tiff" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lhasa and acclimatisation around Drikung Thil </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKqIiZEwLpO7h4d1wVAI9yv9eBXRGHgeYIJfRCReD3152lVaEp-mmSgrXWoMNeYbvs1zq05861UilIo_WcPYxv_cuK7NyCHfuJjf2tirVNHEhPqEeea7FfU4ja7Zr20dpfEWMUyg/s1600/P1130135.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKqIiZEwLpO7h4d1wVAI9yv9eBXRGHgeYIJfRCReD3152lVaEp-mmSgrXWoMNeYbvs1zq05861UilIo_WcPYxv_cuK7NyCHfuJjf2tirVNHEhPqEeea7FfU4ja7Zr20dpfEWMUyg/s640/P1130135.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monks debating at Sera Monastery, near Lhasa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB4un54boU7c-qpN2drHiB_62PA53-IYhBLA5H1jJBegsbS_bKqX3PCRANp7_Pdju4QK0SvNDm5Cyy7BZ_qgxbFuqEd9bK6M7iMC0VTRvGcxM-oVTumGctyPchBKHHKgyfV-aEkA/s1600/P1130254.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB4un54boU7c-qpN2drHiB_62PA53-IYhBLA5H1jJBegsbS_bKqX3PCRANp7_Pdju4QK0SvNDm5Cyy7BZ_qgxbFuqEd9bK6M7iMC0VTRvGcxM-oVTumGctyPchBKHHKgyfV-aEkA/s640/P1130254.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drikung Thil, the principal monastery of the Drikung Kagyu order, about 120 km NE of Lhasa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqRquy3YTO4a_bEbOzlHm6uR-9nCFhi26hFbxbsG4-BKkhZW71MgCaV1keIdzY_2btyqEMEnjSH0_8UPQ_3uQVvC9evkHUmiahlcziYQH7kxXcp9u6JerSUpOZZTP1n9cCLVF82g/s1600/P1130401.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqRquy3YTO4a_bEbOzlHm6uR-9nCFhi26hFbxbsG4-BKkhZW71MgCaV1keIdzY_2btyqEMEnjSH0_8UPQ_3uQVvC9evkHUmiahlcziYQH7kxXcp9u6JerSUpOZZTP1n9cCLVF82g/s640/P1130401.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the kora around Ganden monastery</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
From the time of our arrival in Tibet
there had been uncertainty about our ability to proceed westwards from Lhasa
due to earthquake damage in the area of New Tingri down to the Nepalese border
at Zhangmu, and the significant aid efforts by the Chinese military in the
region. It was clear that our plan to visit Everest Base Camp from Rongphu and
then to trek to the base camp of Shishapangma, the only 8000m peak wholly in
Tibet, would not be possible. One, for safety reasons, and, two, because the
authorities do not want foreigners seeing their internal problems, even though
the resettlement camps we observed in the vicinity of Lhartse were impressively
organised. Our guide told us that people relocated here from the earthquake
affected area immediately to the south had been told that they may be there for
up to two years whilst roads were reconstructed and homes rebuilt.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcLfdR2y7L9Q3qyeRn2bhjLUl8NaH2N2uO6CRrtuz0xOv5-W71A1jC12HKgZgkVA5-6QVmAortWibLQ9RLGU4hBp8IU4gbg3FlGekpQWfxcRy9pe_i230s-tg9cGCqbQZhwUNmGQ/s1600/P1130793.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcLfdR2y7L9Q3qyeRn2bhjLUl8NaH2N2uO6CRrtuz0xOv5-W71A1jC12HKgZgkVA5-6QVmAortWibLQ9RLGU4hBp8IU4gbg3FlGekpQWfxcRy9pe_i230s-tg9cGCqbQZhwUNmGQ/s640/P1130793.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Resettlement camp for evacuees from the earthquake affected areas of Zhangmu and Nyalam</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
Upon our return to Lhasa we were
delighted to find that we could advance a little further west, at least as far
as Shigatse. We travelled there via one of Tibet's most sacred lakes, the
beautiful turquoise Yamdrok Tso at an elevation of 4408m (the same height as
Mont Blanc) and then on to Gyantse, home of the famous dzong which was attacked
by the British in 1904, and the 15th century temple complex of Pelkor Chode and
the adjacent Kumbum, noted for its many chapels over nine storeys, together
containing ten thousand Buddha images. Onwards to Shigatse at 3869m, for the
best hotel yet and a visit to Tashilhumpo, a huge monastery complex once home
to the Panchen Lamas. This was a rather depressing visit, the temples closed to
visitors until late afternoon, and now devoid of its once large monk population
following government controls. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaWAKpE8kCYGbloHPeGhoeyZbdXBfCPS0JltTYNpCz97ZTFS7YP3MwR5lUf3PqJ0RiDt7uTqzM5_xLHX6xcW4c5OErHcMVbEy4Vd7T9RH_bYHDePq0Wm5EbY57tkExR4ZZIh42PQ/s1600/Lhasa+-+Gyantse+-+Shigatse.tiff" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="368" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaWAKpE8kCYGbloHPeGhoeyZbdXBfCPS0JltTYNpCz97ZTFS7YP3MwR5lUf3PqJ0RiDt7uTqzM5_xLHX6xcW4c5OErHcMVbEy4Vd7T9RH_bYHDePq0Wm5EbY57tkExR4ZZIh42PQ/s640/Lhasa+-+Gyantse+-+Shigatse.tiff" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">West from Lhasa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrXfgFzOol_lsswnXw65VuGvaIXOUloWONH_zvaqaoQ76ewmHxMj6ev9tPXdMZr6JmrtvyZ4E3GltOcD3wsmX-9_tUdHt_oGxunkYkcK2NO2HftxjMSTky3py1wR3Dj57SRFTEig/s1600/IMG_1600.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="332" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrXfgFzOol_lsswnXw65VuGvaIXOUloWONH_zvaqaoQ76ewmHxMj6ev9tPXdMZr6JmrtvyZ4E3GltOcD3wsmX-9_tUdHt_oGxunkYkcK2NO2HftxjMSTky3py1wR3Dj57SRFTEig/s640/IMG_1600.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yamdrok Tso<span style="text-align: left;"> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2KeGy9v-qdU569ZrQ3qy6THDCwS88wdqtHHBtgwZFrEVChnJ_4RMVwZvST5scpyG5w_20VqlN798LriQodDOiU6G-gPByq6EE8-A4BnPKyAHIcWSv5wj0hdW-lvIi1QgvUtLjvQ/s1600/P1130554.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="486" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2KeGy9v-qdU569ZrQ3qy6THDCwS88wdqtHHBtgwZFrEVChnJ_4RMVwZvST5scpyG5w_20VqlN798LriQodDOiU6G-gPByq6EE8-A4BnPKyAHIcWSv5wj0hdW-lvIi1QgvUtLjvQ/s640/P1130554.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hoping that the yak doesn't go into reverse...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_X-OEXzgsjA2I_gQtv_lr5pGSe7PUam2fksLK2dz6bkxrFQOfip0KoVyuWMv3_kRbQKrQr0Ry9IiG5NbvnKl1m_QbXF20JIZIf0jmnahym3Z1gY8sqIJVhmuQjUs1nuiU7hWmxw/s1600/P1130565.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_X-OEXzgsjA2I_gQtv_lr5pGSe7PUam2fksLK2dz6bkxrFQOfip0KoVyuWMv3_kRbQKrQr0Ry9IiG5NbvnKl1m_QbXF20JIZIf0jmnahym3Z1gY8sqIJVhmuQjUs1nuiU7hWmxw/s640/P1130565.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking west across Yamdrok Tso to Noching Kansang, 7138m</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtmysHzsC9Ay_Ir_6MFt0lLdNr4bXREWb-pfJhIdSnDSZtiq4dn7fbYrSifvQK95BoOwDrSoq2R4z145IGv3vKecN6h1T3yoqywg8-i8nUZXx-vJMV_hnvXuWRHyy_cWoRy3sGyw/s1600/P1130633.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtmysHzsC9Ay_Ir_6MFt0lLdNr4bXREWb-pfJhIdSnDSZtiq4dn7fbYrSifvQK95BoOwDrSoq2R4z145IGv3vKecN6h1T3yoqywg8-i8nUZXx-vJMV_hnvXuWRHyy_cWoRy3sGyw/s640/P1130633.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nothing is safe from the prayer flag hangers!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQWoKqo3WPo30FlRbOdPdGKDzR8Cs0V3qHXyLsK5iC3vtX-GR9DoB8BWUQAzs6vfpbam3Ujvzdjz97J_BorZl9d-CTS-tOgE_Dm13rU-Akbz4PZYIDb-L46fNu5CpFsjeXQkG8Rw/s1600/P1130687.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQWoKqo3WPo30FlRbOdPdGKDzR8Cs0V3qHXyLsK5iC3vtX-GR9DoB8BWUQAzs6vfpbam3Ujvzdjz97J_BorZl9d-CTS-tOgE_Dm13rU-Akbz4PZYIDb-L46fNu5CpFsjeXQkG8Rw/s640/P1130687.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Kumbum, Gyantse</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9Ay9jbpRz2iXqOwrecHOVlG8sEsuJDI-sUnoOc5XgPSLHYz65QJ1-FrtJf4sObobfXZ0oWR7ZWjiAYVyPfU90mictZClfAGISzE37O-DN9w6fxdN7zgVCqlJjqmjhdUijaFuK6g/s1600/P1130703.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9Ay9jbpRz2iXqOwrecHOVlG8sEsuJDI-sUnoOc5XgPSLHYz65QJ1-FrtJf4sObobfXZ0oWR7ZWjiAYVyPfU90mictZClfAGISzE37O-DN9w6fxdN7zgVCqlJjqmjhdUijaFuK6g/s640/P1130703.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gyantse Dzong, scene of a 'successful' British attack in 1904</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV34vlcrPiTi3850UOJ3QIrwFV4KouzJzFbsbrXnjEWoGMmT1VVvxXqzcj2QDtCswcOtRULlwXYZ0w1hWEzJAY7O_aC1Apskq87A95pVOZqtAwn0tD1VZC096wvRTu6-Y5RqzpgA/s1600/P1130709.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV34vlcrPiTi3850UOJ3QIrwFV4KouzJzFbsbrXnjEWoGMmT1VVvxXqzcj2QDtCswcOtRULlwXYZ0w1hWEzJAY7O_aC1Apskq87A95pVOZqtAwn0tD1VZC096wvRTu6-Y5RqzpgA/s640/P1130709.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The old city of Gyantse, the Kumbum and Pelkor Chode monastery beneath the fortified walls</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
But we had good news on our return to
the hotel. Given that we had applied for our permits to travel to the west of
Tibet months earlier, we were being allowed to proceed to Kailas and Gug<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">é</span>.
Big smiles all round, and this was the point when two of our number were
scheduled to return home, leaving four of us to be one of only three groups to
head to western Tibet so far this season, no further new permits being issued
until further notice.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje-gctEaY5Xut17Pqr4ul2PFoxTzf6pNTGEmHPHn-g8sRkffrxt64KaXWANV7vfiuVnjs82jE3b-VH-JxfpOQh8jaJSZAyBd5W7A8YYbwRahtIReT4NWkLl-Zh_NVAyWhXL0dXKA/s1600/Kailas-Guge.tiff" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="372" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje-gctEaY5Xut17Pqr4ul2PFoxTzf6pNTGEmHPHn-g8sRkffrxt64KaXWANV7vfiuVnjs82jE3b-VH-JxfpOQh8jaJSZAyBd5W7A8YYbwRahtIReT4NWkLl-Zh_NVAyWhXL0dXKA/s640/Kailas-Guge.tiff" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kailas - Guge </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
Beyond Shigatse, the roads emptied and
we entered the mountainous void that lies beyond central Tibet. Many passes
were crossed, most well over 4500m, passing remote communities, range upon
range of mountains, many still snow-capped, until, after two days, we caught
our first sight of Gurla Mandhata, a 7728m peak close to the border at Hilsa in
northwest Nepal. This is a magnificent looking mountain, dominating the
southern end of the sacred lake Manasarovar, the 'Lake Conceived from the Mind
of God,' at an altitude of 4572m and one of the world's largest bodies of pure
water.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi84cIQ67m78hOE6-tFr96MQrkgaMnAnNktnejuJJAjvaFWoyz-3rVxntoHoGPpPSTYg573ItSnBWNbNNT9ZmiEBlZxNaQiFAwJNyiJUBw3hl0BWbfiVh1pNFSivjUFXBz1i0VGxA/s1600/P1130897.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi84cIQ67m78hOE6-tFr96MQrkgaMnAnNktnejuJJAjvaFWoyz-3rVxntoHoGPpPSTYg573ItSnBWNbNNT9ZmiEBlZxNaQiFAwJNyiJUBw3hl0BWbfiVh1pNFSivjUFXBz1i0VGxA/s640/P1130897.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View to the Nepalese Himalaya, on the road west from Drongpa Tradun (Zhongba)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjqHcLTyXUmVCe70d6NgJnpwX3QEVyl3hN2lO8OC8KaDjNTK8VzCmhOOPEdehldcZ6R4YWHyEs5JZ-ORQ11B0_HQ2mMvbW5-z-N9B4Oh5LPlkGhnJ0etGXmHnC9HesvlGWXbWy4Q/s1600/P1130962.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjqHcLTyXUmVCe70d6NgJnpwX3QEVyl3hN2lO8OC8KaDjNTK8VzCmhOOPEdehldcZ6R4YWHyEs5JZ-ORQ11B0_HQ2mMvbW5-z-N9B4Oh5LPlkGhnJ0etGXmHnC9HesvlGWXbWy4Q/s640/P1130962.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Remnants of winter snow on many of the high passes crossed en route to the Kailas region</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-XQMuu3AmDLIKitgtY_j9_jYzT4xEMtdIVK79M2wp7UDXNg5YTVNDZ7d1MCCm8MwEzkqbpaFC8fEoXFshqr_SqZGnuclOdujThxnL1ZMPDBYa6OImSPwAyQt-_YJX4rDvOXVGPQ/s1600/P1140023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-XQMuu3AmDLIKitgtY_j9_jYzT4xEMtdIVK79M2wp7UDXNg5YTVNDZ7d1MCCm8MwEzkqbpaFC8fEoXFshqr_SqZGnuclOdujThxnL1ZMPDBYa6OImSPwAyQt-_YJX4rDvOXVGPQ/s640/P1140023.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lake Manasarovar, still partially covered in ice, from Chiu monastery</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzsdf-GKEL7JbA4IwjPnY2rUgqASjRcAhk2N77ojs-xy0vRAG00mg-9oTEWg6gumCxwNVVR-kM8QVRx-3GLJzsRE8z2NgRCvrK19smlPTwexat6tS5ifrxShCJ7KavjTiwxJcNiQ/s1600/P1140026.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzsdf-GKEL7JbA4IwjPnY2rUgqASjRcAhk2N77ojs-xy0vRAG00mg-9oTEWg6gumCxwNVVR-kM8QVRx-3GLJzsRE8z2NgRCvrK19smlPTwexat6tS5ifrxShCJ7KavjTiwxJcNiQ/s640/P1140026.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
Our first sighting of Kailas was a
little more elusive, dark storm clouds banked over it in stark contrast to the
bright sunshine of late afternoon that was bathing the lake, still largely
covered in ice, and the glaciers of Gurla Mandhata. We ended up in the scruffy
little town of Darchen for the night, having first driven up a ridge bordering
the west side of the lake to check out accommodation near Chiu monastery. This
was subsequently rejected, and it was four very tired travellers who eventually
checked into the basic guest house at the bottom of the town, now at an
elevation of 4575m.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrwqSpGoci_aVSNSjNnxE4FiiKTHOztiToLw1M_J8kliIL0jqA4nhscsOm4aWAbCqiDnBXhSVWSvUuKI4YINoak3SGWXAq4WG6Bz7JcoXVadurcnBNBoZyPMbX46BlEQXTVjnvFQ/s1600/P1130995.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="498" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrwqSpGoci_aVSNSjNnxE4FiiKTHOztiToLw1M_J8kliIL0jqA4nhscsOm4aWAbCqiDnBXhSVWSvUuKI4YINoak3SGWXAq4WG6Bz7JcoXVadurcnBNBoZyPMbX46BlEQXTVjnvFQ/s640/P1130995.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pilgrims prostrating in respect to Mount Kailas, the abode of the buddha Demchok (Cakrasamvara)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr8gptIJGsGDHeCMum_MAST1wChVOMOjXeI14bLWYeDT7wSAhjwaSHYgXlJhAn5iDf8ebeAOANIqKHOtxf9esrMFZk16jWGlvSjLriRSMSyyEMR2hgeddFXPfidP44fllfimxaMQ/s1600/P1140017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr8gptIJGsGDHeCMum_MAST1wChVOMOjXeI14bLWYeDT7wSAhjwaSHYgXlJhAn5iDf8ebeAOANIqKHOtxf9esrMFZk16jWGlvSjLriRSMSyyEMR2hgeddFXPfidP44fllfimxaMQ/s640/P1140017.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snow showers, early evening over Kailas</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
We decided to do the kora the following
morning as the weather dawned bright. The prospect of a good walk after many
days of travelling in the van was very inviting, so we headed off on the 52km
clockwise circuit of the mountain. This is an important pilgrimage for both
Hindus and Buddhists, and for followers of the ancient B<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">ö</span>n religion, who do
the kora in the opposite direction. Walking the circuit is considered very
meritorious by followers of these religions, the merit greater with repeated
circumambulations and enhanced if completed in one day or, in the case of
Buddhists, with multiple prostrations on the way around. Whether the four of us
yielded any merit remains to be seen, but apart from a dozen or so Tibetans, we
had the trail to ourselves, a real privilege.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
The first day is a relatively easy
22.5km walk up the valley bounding the west face of the mountain, first passing
Tarboche, the site of the annual Saga Dawa festival when a large pole festooned
with prayers flags is raised. It's verticality is said to determine the conditions
for Tibet in the coming year - if it is raised at a perfect perpendicular to
the ground, then conditions will be favourable. Beyond this the valley narrows,
the tiny monastery of Choku Gompa on the west side and the rock buttresses
either side of the valley dominating the view. Later, on the approach for the
first stopover, the monastery guesthouse of Driraphuk at 4950m, the trail winds
its way through a valley that trends eastwards, and it was here that snow banks
and frozen streams heralded different walking conditions for the following day.
<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuAIEB6tbR0YpYSAK4s65_1WR7IAAX5XssLe_9GFPz12hYzUAp7z6uPya5ZnLLCr0BU_50zQ8eA9HiGxj-R3GBCtiVeFigpSLqv13jIYjNmlF7bcLNjo4PTbQveYEcGagCc266tA/s1600/P1140049.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuAIEB6tbR0YpYSAK4s65_1WR7IAAX5XssLe_9GFPz12hYzUAp7z6uPya5ZnLLCr0BU_50zQ8eA9HiGxj-R3GBCtiVeFigpSLqv13jIYjNmlF7bcLNjo4PTbQveYEcGagCc266tA/s640/P1140049.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Up bright and early to walk the sacred kora around Mount Kailas, from our guest house in Darchen</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZfg21HvTN31BtoirPfEPjeozlq5V3b0jwVigsXIjNJy0yrKIgBdYQNaoFeFd3QhPbZDd20KnOHacFh2sZpo5R5hnAAn6E-oTXfNUAz0GN32rOy8M7WznFjnadvjRbVufqkNghTw/s1600/P1140050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZfg21HvTN31BtoirPfEPjeozlq5V3b0jwVigsXIjNJy0yrKIgBdYQNaoFeFd3QhPbZDd20KnOHacFh2sZpo5R5hnAAn6E-oTXfNUAz0GN32rOy8M7WznFjnadvjRbVufqkNghTw/s640/P1140050.jpg" width="488" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our two girl porters</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicJ7CMiIepjj0xJf-1RqNRnbfrmLI_fincEhpZ9te0ZcTP7eRAAb_z1Tgh9xPygB_kRAHSGg2fuQw5Msdaf-KvCBlErJe7VJOHBY7csk04DnEXqazQAaoSJPxGlU-ya4D9O-J2QA/s1600/P1140061.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="418" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicJ7CMiIepjj0xJf-1RqNRnbfrmLI_fincEhpZ9te0ZcTP7eRAAb_z1Tgh9xPygB_kRAHSGg2fuQw5Msdaf-KvCBlErJe7VJOHBY7csk04DnEXqazQAaoSJPxGlU-ya4D9O-J2QA/s640/P1140061.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking back to Gurla Mandhata across the Barkha plain<span style="text-align: left;"> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjORfRZAkWHekebpaDbBCuelb4ymEbzQf3O_6fYjDDQ1p57oggRCBAF5QAb1cx7T3eUfVM9NHKPuvV8L9hVY8DYGQbtJcfZW88cayJsBli9rSsE_x775II8Y0I2sQZJ9AU-k6BZyw/s1600/P1140076.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjORfRZAkWHekebpaDbBCuelb4ymEbzQf3O_6fYjDDQ1p57oggRCBAF5QAb1cx7T3eUfVM9NHKPuvV8L9hVY8DYGQbtJcfZW88cayJsBli9rSsE_x775II8Y0I2sQZJ9AU-k6BZyw/s640/P1140076.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Into the canyon of Lha Chu, day one of the kora</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSRyIYxSmC7JbuKP5FqWYug72sprp_IxMDeqEdmEvM1agh4Ou1WckLmxzdsX3exY2EZKTghJnROTN-xV4RMDt2FZ7epkAWfbA6mCzLcVGQJn-7OwdANVn2fY1QF4gb_ZFtPlnCOg/s1600/P1140087.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSRyIYxSmC7JbuKP5FqWYug72sprp_IxMDeqEdmEvM1agh4Ou1WckLmxzdsX3exY2EZKTghJnROTN-xV4RMDt2FZ7epkAWfbA6mCzLcVGQJn-7OwdANVn2fY1QF4gb_ZFtPlnCOg/s640/P1140087.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tarboche, site of the annual Saga Dawa festival<span style="text-align: left;"> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM-3xFa4QWNOT4HPEtd7jIKRcVS8BCWb1gdTl9ubLn6xsseJM6_EvxNgxbxkDiiP-qEnIF3ZeL9Qwh270eSjqz_U0psWrcpjSM5rriSguO4G0mTn7jN-tDRfx5_TWvYNkxK49lRQ/s1600/P1140107.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM-3xFa4QWNOT4HPEtd7jIKRcVS8BCWb1gdTl9ubLn6xsseJM6_EvxNgxbxkDiiP-qEnIF3ZeL9Qwh270eSjqz_U0psWrcpjSM5rriSguO4G0mTn7jN-tDRfx5_TWvYNkxK49lRQ/s640/P1140107.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A deserted kora - we only saw a dozen Tibetans all day</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmP46WnBqJtDZNqgWdQ9LPbWPsQG99udXqL_fxhSgsWK2fRnizIpwSIu-xgp7FETVIVXG9seqx6gQSZi5v6H-5DisAV0cBUXejYTiP58R_6IOc7Tuw4Nk7hDM-WVLE66ddKkPI7A/s1600/P1140112.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmP46WnBqJtDZNqgWdQ9LPbWPsQG99udXqL_fxhSgsWK2fRnizIpwSIu-xgp7FETVIVXG9seqx6gQSZi5v6H-5DisAV0cBUXejYTiP58R_6IOc7Tuw4Nk7hDM-WVLE66ddKkPI7A/s640/P1140112.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Frozen waterfalls on the western flanks of the Kailas massif - we assume the braiding was caused by strong winds. <br />
Any other theories?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh13sWDP8rbcDKSfnvn_C3HMHs0ZPDn5AqDjjdqlQX1ezm2HXf8UpwBNyHY9Ehai-kJCvacwyZOABba8BSEzJ20j-CO-fGPYSv-ZjbL8cDWS6bJySYjDDxI5c3SmKeZSi5V2k8wqA/s1600/P1140140.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh13sWDP8rbcDKSfnvn_C3HMHs0ZPDn5AqDjjdqlQX1ezm2HXf8UpwBNyHY9Ehai-kJCvacwyZOABba8BSEzJ20j-CO-fGPYSv-ZjbL8cDWS6bJySYjDDxI5c3SmKeZSi5V2k8wqA/s640/P1140140.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Splendid isolation</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixWxm5xjmnMMGjJWCPq5sl_of2E68K3-vXcGsyeu0FyVXWXc7MQgZ73QvZPGx0PhNA15GAs6PFZEUgIyuDUAmDqVLIlQNLMg4P3b5wc0y4lcIwpqyEShdxxBdtbEFYJiJqCTUkSw/s1600/P1140147.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixWxm5xjmnMMGjJWCPq5sl_of2E68K3-vXcGsyeu0FyVXWXc7MQgZ73QvZPGx0PhNA15GAs6PFZEUgIyuDUAmDqVLIlQNLMg4P3b5wc0y4lcIwpqyEShdxxBdtbEFYJiJqCTUkSw/s640/P1140147.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The western buttresses of Kailas</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTzsIpq2RhpfwFB8_jstwFrqzTh7lDZuoPuVJrK1r7mPpTbNz6o569-d-DrNPArumb_tPB6oXcF6jgCEnnjoDEz0CMuKX55pxxEPDLIZUAEd9_OMYWvppQtx4l3aXsUqa9ZAgKRQ/s1600/P1140167.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTzsIpq2RhpfwFB8_jstwFrqzTh7lDZuoPuVJrK1r7mPpTbNz6o569-d-DrNPArumb_tPB6oXcF6jgCEnnjoDEz0CMuKX55pxxEPDLIZUAEd9_OMYWvppQtx4l3aXsUqa9ZAgKRQ/s640/P1140167.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pilgrims on the final walk-in to Driraphuk monastery</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSofNqcVptjFfplhUmy473VQMmr7hYqFiVp8ogEgdlA_HWdcyAJjo9gEO_WyTUzBaILN31lqcZ9QBQR1SRzBTTa9T97W3wuNRgsrn-ccF_N58PJIesfKHp2SKUTN2ZzJYIbv9h0A/s1600/P1140174.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSofNqcVptjFfplhUmy473VQMmr7hYqFiVp8ogEgdlA_HWdcyAJjo9gEO_WyTUzBaILN31lqcZ9QBQR1SRzBTTa9T97W3wuNRgsrn-ccF_N58PJIesfKHp2SKUTN2ZzJYIbv9h0A/s640/P1140174.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji5H_RHCQ4Iv9_BWSTe66yv-M-3T6yqU0sj7eelwLXPASlUelX_MEW75P-_wwdt4V8F_bRsPOecf4VtVeYJEH_6yDXCHWuUAinG5q5Ug2Bx61WbFw-iAa5aG6fOz6oohtei54AmQ/s1600/P1140200.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji5H_RHCQ4Iv9_BWSTe66yv-M-3T6yqU0sj7eelwLXPASlUelX_MEW75P-_wwdt4V8F_bRsPOecf4VtVeYJEH_6yDXCHWuUAinG5q5Ug2Bx61WbFw-iAa5aG6fOz6oohtei54AmQ/s640/P1140200.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chortens at Driraphuk, the Karma Kagyu monastery built around the 'cave of the female yak horns,' used by the sage Gotsangpo in the early 13th century for meditation</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
Day two of the kora greeted us with
superb views to the north face of Kailas, a 1500m cliff face, and took us up
slopes of hardened snow, making for good progress over what would otherwise be
uneven ground, although we were now performing above 5000m, so a slow steady
pace was essential. Our big challenge today was to successfully cross the pass
of Drolma La at 5660m, the final approach up a steeper snow slope, and where we
were overtaken by two or three groups of young Tibetans who had a somewhat
faster pace than us! The whole team managed the pass, a 760m climb from our
start point, a great atmosphere prevailing there as elated youngsters fixed new
prayer flags to kick off the new pilgrimage season. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLA5dSzhoK-I6Mp5ALEwZAH3R-q27Ml9CPlilDsH5okLhO-NIWZn42DYZ-BNHDltMuPpQDIUbwm3ginWmcd8ArwJFQRK8hDFHaO3kxkJiJbM2YXp-N2Nj5UjmfCkk5BZbJzqM3Mg/s1600/P1140204.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLA5dSzhoK-I6Mp5ALEwZAH3R-q27Ml9CPlilDsH5okLhO-NIWZn42DYZ-BNHDltMuPpQDIUbwm3ginWmcd8ArwJFQRK8hDFHaO3kxkJiJbM2YXp-N2Nj5UjmfCkk5BZbJzqM3Mg/s640/P1140204.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">North face of Kailas from Driraphuk</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJu4hL9wwG3Xm32M8kHLCPlxG5qirulnqDJ0xJQmzTh2aerewO9DCiVy6SYP_xu5cb7AvN2aMuzjPG6HBvyf0-_VMHBNzDIktyEFEteNqR4l1YcA8pwnqT1UXZL-idjPsfRLJPzw/s1600/P1140243.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJu4hL9wwG3Xm32M8kHLCPlxG5qirulnqDJ0xJQmzTh2aerewO9DCiVy6SYP_xu5cb7AvN2aMuzjPG6HBvyf0-_VMHBNzDIktyEFEteNqR4l1YcA8pwnqT1UXZL-idjPsfRLJPzw/s640/P1140243.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Team member Cadi on the final ascent</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihiKflWXPdI7Ez-_9m6yCQm9bfSiX5nV-C_J1fLsWxE7xhBh1XK32IXx8-MpuwiUUUnj16GxK1CLEgZMrW9gNkc3vk__Q0uOnytWRGOZ20oFh-mmIhyphenhyphenA30gWACo-JyMeNDAH7Reg/s1600/P1140245.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihiKflWXPdI7Ez-_9m6yCQm9bfSiX5nV-C_J1fLsWxE7xhBh1XK32IXx8-MpuwiUUUnj16GxK1CLEgZMrW9gNkc3vk__Q0uOnytWRGOZ20oFh-mmIhyphenhyphenA30gWACo-JyMeNDAH7Reg/s640/P1140245.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Up, up and up in the thin air above 5000m...the elusive Drolma La still out of sight</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH1KQbigKoGVUWx7Jd43wMil_SnYLMx3AuhqomV-j2PHCOoc6eMm2mrzzG-ZZREQM2B_tvOwBQTg-rU15MNwEKvS9uErzsdTFpONlbq-nlbzs85dr-tTWY3W9rEEObU9ekbBOSSw/s1600/P1140263.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH1KQbigKoGVUWx7Jd43wMil_SnYLMx3AuhqomV-j2PHCOoc6eMm2mrzzG-ZZREQM2B_tvOwBQTg-rU15MNwEKvS9uErzsdTFpONlbq-nlbzs85dr-tTWY3W9rEEObU9ekbBOSSw/s640/P1140263.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ralph and Carole reach the Drolma La at 5660m</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ6qZ-LJD5pqaVtvK1Ow8Nvo9MNwDQhBeL1QKLiox06TRydm88ocbTyELriJFBjbiOl1RUnPRUroEz_pfDPDPpgXw0nFMwHOLnmcSODvD56wDd1Cqh5-mTG3iCR_ULcpyuKNz-FA/s1600/IMG_1738.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ6qZ-LJD5pqaVtvK1Ow8Nvo9MNwDQhBeL1QKLiox06TRydm88ocbTyELriJFBjbiOl1RUnPRUroEz_pfDPDPpgXw0nFMwHOLnmcSODvD56wDd1Cqh5-mTG3iCR_ULcpyuKNz-FA/s640/IMG_1738.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drolma La - one happy team!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5TQEWMqgmV8KtFogkixhvsp8kgFW4uzq-IiGSa2JG17lWBTzmqUlNHqiWSOqTSWnCpr78Y-UbZ5-X45g8z_RzUvJ_KGhNjPGkfaMDE1I1BOtLrfK6XfHuzCu0PG1x2x_OC6fXmQ/s1600/IMG_1739.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="140" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5TQEWMqgmV8KtFogkixhvsp8kgFW4uzq-IiGSa2JG17lWBTzmqUlNHqiWSOqTSWnCpr78Y-UbZ5-X45g8z_RzUvJ_KGhNjPGkfaMDE1I1BOtLrfK6XfHuzCu0PG1x2x_OC6fXmQ/s640/IMG_1739.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Young Tibetans refreshing prayer flags</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj71rpYGG5EsqsjaGXwmSSe9OGAYIUqlMK7MdZOI4tuFLckKDgJ_z9DR6aUN1I38XC_Jq_sDwnyou8yNbeHi-SRViKdfdavR9hPSPYVwekj6-mqzzxCUARYFhqGoSDBmkrhH4O6eg/s1600/P1140252.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj71rpYGG5EsqsjaGXwmSSe9OGAYIUqlMK7MdZOI4tuFLckKDgJ_z9DR6aUN1I38XC_Jq_sDwnyou8yNbeHi-SRViKdfdavR9hPSPYVwekj6-mqzzxCUARYFhqGoSDBmkrhH4O6eg/s640/P1140252.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGu64PekycaL9SXAwNOjY5iLdzWQ7GJGenPDABtvCA_2RLaI2yLz8Ql_8ZWXQznok891K21Mmyq_eI9DAZ_meezHLk72USVdWk5toyqN_lNf20vqQxcwhgIAmM92YaypkjQAsySA/s1600/P1140260.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGu64PekycaL9SXAwNOjY5iLdzWQ7GJGenPDABtvCA_2RLaI2yLz8Ql_8ZWXQznok891K21Mmyq_eI9DAZ_meezHLk72USVdWk5toyqN_lNf20vqQxcwhgIAmM92YaypkjQAsySA/s640/P1140260.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The only way is down...and quick about it before the snow softens too much</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
But it was not a place to linger, one
for the debilitating effect of altitude, and two, because the sun was already
softening the snow, making the descent quite tricky in places, and in one spot,
a slope of blue water ice needed some concentration, and a little assistance
from our two girl porters. Working our way down a final rocky bluff, 400m lost
in an hour and a half, we then faced a very long valley plod to our guesthouse
at the tiny monastery of Dzultrulpuk which encloses a cave used by the famous
Buddhist mystic, Milarepa. This was a welcoming spot after a total distance
walked of 22.9km, the host family cheerful and friendly, and with the rooms
constructed from thin sheet metal, it was a chilled place to celebrate our
crossing of the Drolma La, both physically and metaphorically.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDKqEdJTBPrcs2i5YlB5YlPdIYvfrFNxgUNaZrYBu1GbcfkdXxWQAc7w84KL6T8e0bkaF1a_-7O6ZSiYFTJwS_KQskrz9SmGjD-x6CxqZvdDmybqr7me0bVXg7U1ir_a6Yi22CkA/s1600/P1140271.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDKqEdJTBPrcs2i5YlB5YlPdIYvfrFNxgUNaZrYBu1GbcfkdXxWQAc7w84KL6T8e0bkaF1a_-7O6ZSiYFTJwS_KQskrz9SmGjD-x6CxqZvdDmybqr7me0bVXg7U1ir_a6Yi22CkA/s640/P1140271.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Descent from the Drolma La</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwtEe1hboRWgCPXky-xuupw-agnLh5_xzporQm65JNnSHNgq13GZ0zDZ6v9lWE-PKeMcpng2yJeaPRt8p24k5io6XEBbD5N68uBUWp9tPwqJFHPfd-HN95w8z9jRrgWsc0kJrkSg/s1600/P1140277.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwtEe1hboRWgCPXky-xuupw-agnLh5_xzporQm65JNnSHNgq13GZ0zDZ6v9lWE-PKeMcpng2yJeaPRt8p24k5io6XEBbD5N68uBUWp9tPwqJFHPfd-HN95w8z9jRrgWsc0kJrkSg/s640/P1140277.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Care required on the blue ice below!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga2Oowyl_xnfbkG1AvXOwkNkCNPeY8Xg9lJdrMB3ihGCUlWgH86jqO0rfQtAJ2pXJDAIFCB3YfqtH8V3-T8xn8VtBM9zk1ROfTwCga0ViLdII3mmKeezt86KZoIkyoHaNJBMG7iQ/s1600/P1140278.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="524" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga2Oowyl_xnfbkG1AvXOwkNkCNPeY8Xg9lJdrMB3ihGCUlWgH86jqO0rfQtAJ2pXJDAIFCB3YfqtH8V3-T8xn8VtBM9zk1ROfTwCga0ViLdII3mmKeezt86KZoIkyoHaNJBMG7iQ/s640/P1140278.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Steep descent in places before reaching the wide valley of the Lham Chu</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqUEdF_zp5s2CtdiV1pTD23k_QsyWf8PD1AJneuaSUrHCDjJeuBlbZZD_LUgoV3rOAjpJjNSgiaDVy8jAdg1pia6Dstblu-mttkgNjQJNp7k2ehJvsybpGfYru0ip-LFcH8SDwGw/s1600/P1140286.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqUEdF_zp5s2CtdiV1pTD23k_QsyWf8PD1AJneuaSUrHCDjJeuBlbZZD_LUgoV3rOAjpJjNSgiaDVy8jAdg1pia6Dstblu-mttkgNjQJNp7k2ehJvsybpGfYru0ip-LFcH8SDwGw/s640/P1140286.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The welcoming owners of the guest house at Zutrulphuk monastery - their living<br />
accommodation and teahouse for passing pilgrims during the day</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5iM5dtd9F_oCOGFn3lmH0jz-rTPTSVwPJibxhgypY1aDmUZu-RUcWcX_G5s2OOy8ObLYsz1AK9kbmCck4slzscvMwEHqaiiZ92JsAvzj04ifK_GfrwzITUg8BpBrNLVg5z9u1MA/s1600/P1140287.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5iM5dtd9F_oCOGFn3lmH0jz-rTPTSVwPJibxhgypY1aDmUZu-RUcWcX_G5s2OOy8ObLYsz1AK9kbmCck4slzscvMwEHqaiiZ92JsAvzj04ifK_GfrwzITUg8BpBrNLVg5z9u1MA/s640/P1140287.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggJtp2n3fj6OumU7zOItGMHmbOJfaZCxmjhIAaJLkCkQn850Fu4SKnVdlhBnrWMvKM2fFtpjOZmDjJ0WjRQFjbAfjciYlAn3f8XVnhUtpBCrY427pRa5dmQjWn3XPp27M0IdJpig/s1600/P1140290.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggJtp2n3fj6OumU7zOItGMHmbOJfaZCxmjhIAaJLkCkQn850Fu4SKnVdlhBnrWMvKM2fFtpjOZmDjJ0WjRQFjbAfjciYlAn3f8XVnhUtpBCrY427pRa5dmQjWn3XPp27M0IdJpig/s640/P1140290.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zutrulphuk moanstery, site of Milarepa's contest with the Bon deity Naro Boncheng</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The third day of
the kora is a straightforward downhill valley walk of 11.3km, a few rises just
to test your mettle, but easily despatched in a morning, a little entertainment
provided by a shepherdess controlling her flock with a slingshot and a passing
herd of yak.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWbF_qJIaeoHeV4e4S_fUzVtRy-ixXwF-Hh7B1Jyf51-z5RUtS6q9H_4NQ68Cym6LAjXW64JuKXoF6tE7v8W54_lOikM9rlpI6EF1KctwiQVPwmVEZNbNJm7wP608-kYOkPJaWpw/s1600/P1140305.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWbF_qJIaeoHeV4e4S_fUzVtRy-ixXwF-Hh7B1Jyf51-z5RUtS6q9H_4NQ68Cym6LAjXW64JuKXoF6tE7v8W54_lOikM9rlpI6EF1KctwiQVPwmVEZNbNJm7wP608-kYOkPJaWpw/s640/P1140305.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mind that yak! Day three on the kora, back to Darchen</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
From Darchen, four happy adventurers
headed across the wide plain west of the lake of Rakas Tal, the objective to
reach the ancient kingdom of Gug<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">é</span>, established in the 10th century as
one of three western kingdoms (the others Ladakh and Purang), founded by
Buddhists fleeing persecution from king Langdarma who turned against Buddhism.
With the influence of two great Buddhist masters, the translator Rinchen
Zangpo, and the scholar Atisha, Guge was the focal point for the second
diffusion of Buddhism in Tibet, creating a more disciplined and scholarly
approach to enlightenment, and seeding the rise of the 'New Translation'
schools, starting with the Kadampa.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
The legacies of this era are the 10th
century temples of Tholing, and the 15th century fortress/temple complex of
Tsaparang. But first we had to get to them. Turning left at Bauer, a marvellous
road, rising to 5200m at one point, took us through canyons of red, blue and
orange rock, before revealing views to the Garhwal Himalaya of Uttaranchal,
northern India, snow capped peaks lining the horizon as far as the eye can see.
But there was another surprise to come - the vast canyon lands of the Sutlej
river system, which unfolded before us as we descended to the town of Tholing,
the first capital of Gug<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">é</span>.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
The monastery complex here was
undergoing a massive restoration project at the time of our visit,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>but we did get to view a couple of the key
temples, noted for a very particular form of Buddhist art derived from both
Kashmiri and Bengali influences and featuring wonderful decoration on the
ceilings. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbivGmi73diB3SfkW1mKJXFJvP4RrdX1go9EcuX33BBC6Q1EqYiuL4pbvKsMn_8QS5B4OE-tiBzjEw8D2ifvkb_kvBOUgku0gn3Od-pa4r9W-jPOEFfxqUh88YP34hahvDvdgprQ/s1600/P1140411.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbivGmi73diB3SfkW1mKJXFJvP4RrdX1go9EcuX33BBC6Q1EqYiuL4pbvKsMn_8QS5B4OE-tiBzjEw8D2ifvkb_kvBOUgku0gn3Od-pa4r9W-jPOEFfxqUh88YP34hahvDvdgprQ/s640/P1140411.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Every turn a spectacle, the road from Bauer to Tholing is one of the most scenic roads I have ever travelled on</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihyphenhyphenBrAZv2Vkr_j-5mqIl-87aH5KhoNmDERgqXZDgWO4OG2_xse0ksZwbab04ebOv9cP8tyD9yNA-o_oHanu4qQhqSOy-Cv4YI9O_JR5_NFhxGB6EYU8ytAJ4nZiwzLu1uyGsUfjA/s1600/P1140389.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="372" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihyphenhyphenBrAZv2Vkr_j-5mqIl-87aH5KhoNmDERgqXZDgWO4OG2_xse0ksZwbab04ebOv9cP8tyD9yNA-o_oHanu4qQhqSOy-Cv4YI9O_JR5_NFhxGB6EYU8ytAJ4nZiwzLu1uyGsUfjA/s640/P1140389.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zanda</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0rN003p_OsQnDK4n4CTYHwzgLIQDFWRJAKCZnaE1tgdd_8H6CdKQ-FI472vq5SkHtQmJ3hN_OHgn6YSp3-WgYmz1BwfFe05fuxaiSk_3fvP256HyD9i5DuyFUxB6_nZaOmz7NxA/s1600/P1140396.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0rN003p_OsQnDK4n4CTYHwzgLIQDFWRJAKCZnaE1tgdd_8H6CdKQ-FI472vq5SkHtQmJ3hN_OHgn6YSp3-WgYmz1BwfFe05fuxaiSk_3fvP256HyD9i5DuyFUxB6_nZaOmz7NxA/s640/P1140396.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPAOSDxfxkaB5fEypio78j85FlsBrlrTQz8ApGkcupUHSK9Rv_oUqOM7xlATjiZya2WZ6ENFQP7KtUjYZoWSCG0gb6uCZJMuh2sJINkSOuH1tl6X_AC2jjAQFwFUui7059U0P2mg/s1600/P1140404.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPAOSDxfxkaB5fEypio78j85FlsBrlrTQz8ApGkcupUHSK9Rv_oUqOM7xlATjiZya2WZ6ENFQP7KtUjYZoWSCG0gb6uCZJMuh2sJINkSOuH1tl6X_AC2jjAQFwFUui7059U0P2mg/s640/P1140404.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roads generally over 5000m on this stretch...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmFkrJYVEixiXhSEcXN7fm9l68lW19u2SaEO3PjfgD0pbZ0B0Yx_Wvk16F7AWXTEji42vJENBGPz7e8ox_knuSUL23WhyTdswIXmJGAMLJ5sGnbSeyicZ7geLWzuZFHQZ6F4zbgA/s1600/P1140419.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmFkrJYVEixiXhSEcXN7fm9l68lW19u2SaEO3PjfgD0pbZ0B0Yx_Wvk16F7AWXTEji42vJENBGPz7e8ox_knuSUL23WhyTdswIXmJGAMLJ5sGnbSeyicZ7geLWzuZFHQZ6F4zbgA/s640/P1140419.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and not always in the best of condition!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRJNIHOOkA4UfgOC4wkYEL0KAN8we3gd2eaBTneO4noHjZwvhZGJfPvoAxbK_54-KP-5JHmBauhAIg_POz_7vQw5rBr-D30jwUV0WmpbfJEXCECm2DILYMdMMeYao_K8rjfq1G3Q/s1600/P1140452.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRJNIHOOkA4UfgOC4wkYEL0KAN8we3gd2eaBTneO4noHjZwvhZGJfPvoAxbK_54-KP-5JHmBauhAIg_POz_7vQw5rBr-D30jwUV0WmpbfJEXCECm2DILYMdMMeYao_K8rjfq1G3Q/s640/P1140452.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixPYOL2Fg5s8lWfLP8b6X-NNj8Zw0pEAjFdNd_oG_zfP5PoFR5-7aT-T3FMigFHbi1PR4y9w11sOSdUqhyphenhyphen6hfwHI4tHs4YKaCziSh6IEnNTwnVFCHLnoSwPrH7U3T-awonbzOJOA/s1600/P1140507.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixPYOL2Fg5s8lWfLP8b6X-NNj8Zw0pEAjFdNd_oG_zfP5PoFR5-7aT-T3FMigFHbi1PR4y9w11sOSdUqhyphenhyphen6hfwHI4tHs4YKaCziSh6IEnNTwnVFCHLnoSwPrH7U3T-awonbzOJOA/s640/P1140507.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The start of the Sutlej canyon lands</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMT7d2TLOV-eRpYn4bI25KhQMrsc6K7wOTOYzwa-875aGAVUb6D9boLgAAwIcY15bArgWA8kjA2s2GLzDZr4rFQs1ZZTxsb9bPo5EJCjeb0eGAJY5W2PIIRYPD628I3pxZoxOxKg/s1600/P1140510.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMT7d2TLOV-eRpYn4bI25KhQMrsc6K7wOTOYzwa-875aGAVUb6D9boLgAAwIcY15bArgWA8kjA2s2GLzDZr4rFQs1ZZTxsb9bPo5EJCjeb0eGAJY5W2PIIRYPD628I3pxZoxOxKg/s640/P1140510.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Magnificent views to the Indian Himalaya</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivmHp4ZLQ0l5dlO8qQ_1Y5UJFO_RGOVUBtc5wHor-2Zbl7GmHC-IZ0g18o5na2dbEm0hGuHm87cn6hNp57ylQxuIrpn9Ky0aFAxBseMmtsukyiQR4XE18lFswhlekiYOlIfljFoA/s1600/P1140533.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivmHp4ZLQ0l5dlO8qQ_1Y5UJFO_RGOVUBtc5wHor-2Zbl7GmHC-IZ0g18o5na2dbEm0hGuHm87cn6hNp57ylQxuIrpn9Ky0aFAxBseMmtsukyiQR4XE18lFswhlekiYOlIfljFoA/s640/P1140533.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Descending through the canyons to reach Tholing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
The highlight, though, was Tsaparang.
Apart from an early morning posse of army personnel wandering around as
sightseers, we had the place to ourselves (in fact we'd only seen two other
western visitors in the preceding six days). Situated on the side of a steep
sandstone canyon above the Sutlej river, there is a monastery complex of four
temples on the lower elevations, and a cleverly created walkway takes you up to
the citadel fortress, 170m above the entranceway, passing caves variously used
for accommodating the lower classes, meditation cells for monks, kitchens and a
prison. The views from here, in bright sunshine, were, quite simply,
unequalled.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
Gug<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">é</span> was really the pinnacle of the trip
for me, a place so distant, and so rarely visited by non-Chinese. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpa61_2YCpfEX5TOmbIPes2bOvwGMNxub0Puv_Uid6UfhWkoImOYH5xxRiZQm2wAtAtvSNr7ktnuS1Jy8c8v_0TzjQjItiNm2hutVJs4Y4rwAXNIc52zX0FIbkhtr6Z5tAewAcwg/s1600/P1140624.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpa61_2YCpfEX5TOmbIPes2bOvwGMNxub0Puv_Uid6UfhWkoImOYH5xxRiZQm2wAtAtvSNr7ktnuS1Jy8c8v_0TzjQjItiNm2hutVJs4Y4rwAXNIc52zX0FIbkhtr6Z5tAewAcwg/s640/P1140624.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tsaparang, the capital of Guge established in the 15th century. A monastic complex of four temples on the lower elevations and the King's citadel 170m higher up. Following a siege and subsequent slaughter of the occupants, the site laid untouched from the 1680s to the early 20th century.<span style="text-align: left;"> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9zfMGuWRpNnJtBbKju1D36oabijCnklL1gvBDJl-tycoR71QrdMhlBDQOtaB6U02Xs0qjCQvVf9abHdXTxc1OQHaxrmM-uejQ5WaacMqVSCsm1kQw7E4QRueTZzI_1tI0yvVvUg/s1600/P1140639.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9zfMGuWRpNnJtBbKju1D36oabijCnklL1gvBDJl-tycoR71QrdMhlBDQOtaB6U02Xs0qjCQvVf9abHdXTxc1OQHaxrmM-uejQ5WaacMqVSCsm1kQw7E4QRueTZzI_1tI0yvVvUg/s640/P1140639.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Views to the Sutlej valley and the Loteng Monastery on the other side of the ravine</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaYT-zOZ6lQvQRGvy7M3OrRsiVzsB8bblKFgXIq0plZx6elXCBbAxqzegCCciHLP2Cisr5-ELgqUFnGRkCHDwMCXfU56I1XneVN2HUqeOV1ENgc71Frwl0Ros5E-K4ulOH2ju_kQ/s1600/P1140667.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaYT-zOZ6lQvQRGvy7M3OrRsiVzsB8bblKFgXIq0plZx6elXCBbAxqzegCCciHLP2Cisr5-ELgqUFnGRkCHDwMCXfU56I1XneVN2HUqeOV1ENgc71Frwl0Ros5E-K4ulOH2ju_kQ/s640/P1140667.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSS3JtOVv1GRxvOXnPeVJda2c5w_KczZQ7KcozSSMPhHpnkbq4fPY9CAYySXQ8iVKcJ5uk9yHlDYkM3Jl4Q4kDNw_ow5DrrcEsISCqB_vXff0gpG2RzLrRViuXgIlIAZE22gRotA/s1600/P1140675.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSS3JtOVv1GRxvOXnPeVJda2c5w_KczZQ7KcozSSMPhHpnkbq4fPY9CAYySXQ8iVKcJ5uk9yHlDYkM3Jl4Q4kDNw_ow5DrrcEsISCqB_vXff0gpG2RzLrRViuXgIlIAZE22gRotA/s640/P1140675.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7E09kp6oOLzLg8tk-kO46R_nN2o61pbyWQ5H6H-NosFVXe6WIbVoypkYYKkWL9gMY3IL01uATuatdW3D50EoM7IeJwzCE3R6pTixrq6k9abVr3BLqwch3O9DzFoE0kNgZaK1LcA/s1600/P1140683.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7E09kp6oOLzLg8tk-kO46R_nN2o61pbyWQ5H6H-NosFVXe6WIbVoypkYYKkWL9gMY3IL01uATuatdW3D50EoM7IeJwzCE3R6pTixrq6k9abVr3BLqwch3O9DzFoE0kNgZaK1LcA/s640/P1140683.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjliHv_xGoaKdg5oEYxJAOgbasPYWW3iq7nZZfCAewVuFs0O718iduyy4ZGAaK3xqYjFwKgux7d3_54qdX9FEgLzjY_W70AkAZ2YnpcxyRD-uYVHpv-FzxjWL6r8aCGbv6Rhs82ug/s1600/P1140686.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjliHv_xGoaKdg5oEYxJAOgbasPYWW3iq7nZZfCAewVuFs0O718iduyy4ZGAaK3xqYjFwKgux7d3_54qdX9FEgLzjY_W70AkAZ2YnpcxyRD-uYVHpv-FzxjWL6r8aCGbv6Rhs82ug/s640/P1140686.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglMnxIARDZTUG2KjYVgEMfYZwI7ENKOX2rH4feMZeDb1o6amwdtU3-FwGK5GdvPK4EZufBb4_EBWn-okOW6zqYK-aG_t4ssj963HkxBmnB4PmbvaqLzdXvhYUOObP-7w2hyphenhyphenQQ9lA/s1600/P1140688.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglMnxIARDZTUG2KjYVgEMfYZwI7ENKOX2rH4feMZeDb1o6amwdtU3-FwGK5GdvPK4EZufBb4_EBWn-okOW6zqYK-aG_t4ssj963HkxBmnB4PmbvaqLzdXvhYUOObP-7w2hyphenhyphenQQ9lA/s640/P1140688.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The citadel, accessed via a secret tunnel, and now accessible to the visitor</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf-8_aybM81zScA4qHRsobZoe4W39K6-vx041OaQCv3eDOMU_XZ0CNZj3SLCednbLmjtCAURMU0Yt2l6YQhYHdf1W6YdEi2IMW2y7RDxuN4wPqET6xMd7FJjSEazDKepLVxB3VsQ/s1600/P1140695.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf-8_aybM81zScA4qHRsobZoe4W39K6-vx041OaQCv3eDOMU_XZ0CNZj3SLCednbLmjtCAURMU0Yt2l6YQhYHdf1W6YdEi2IMW2y7RDxuN4wPqET6xMd7FJjSEazDKepLVxB3VsQ/s640/P1140695.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4zSBl0oeoZTmwCyvDMsYjoBfxmnAyMX3GbkjQ7ZFgS8McAlwMbS1sgtqPjeWeNBdnnjsHAZMcEwwsMSNyiwU8Jm2hwLW8QyUUVFsm3wB9-lJ8x6OdL6jjYzE_321NCt68edZE1Q/s1600/P1140706.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4zSBl0oeoZTmwCyvDMsYjoBfxmnAyMX3GbkjQ7ZFgS8McAlwMbS1sgtqPjeWeNBdnnjsHAZMcEwwsMSNyiwU8Jm2hwLW8QyUUVFsm3wB9-lJ8x6OdL6jjYzE_321NCt68edZE1Q/s640/P1140706.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKSxjyuMstIGnuNLjiZfQfC4GgQVAvohePGagEUU-L4t13XUol8VrL7V07EgKfbeW3wvZvE8XGn5ceG8ZY3a88ezf71UZr7SifUTVGri3D05Kr5FtQasHkl0VP-GVYwgEtuThdAw/s1600/P1140709.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKSxjyuMstIGnuNLjiZfQfC4GgQVAvohePGagEUU-L4t13XUol8VrL7V07EgKfbeW3wvZvE8XGn5ceG8ZY3a88ezf71UZr7SifUTVGri3D05Kr5FtQasHkl0VP-GVYwgEtuThdAw/s640/P1140709.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The small temple known as the Demchok Mandala</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhjFIdD1r2iBa5bSAvkGNmmUkjJv9SL1YfIRx6xV54SGjgVr7p0AQEigItDsbkoGEdk_VXETwEXiIcI8m0Nd1FgV_xkLmNAjUFln2Tz3Ts80jIci30alLLBaX1vU_l4U4fUQ94ug/s1600/P1140711.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhjFIdD1r2iBa5bSAvkGNmmUkjJv9SL1YfIRx6xV54SGjgVr7p0AQEigItDsbkoGEdk_VXETwEXiIcI8m0Nd1FgV_xkLmNAjUFln2Tz3Ts80jIci30alLLBaX1vU_l4U4fUQ94ug/s640/P1140711.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKNUqP7NlyUJJunLjvPI4Y9wOyKRL0XYHnk2fEIKxUl80UdfKQBbUooQ740h0DCQxJt_LRD6MabKB_WhJPjoylY8RBtLUpVnOnrKaKjrsbMY6RqhbHmClMw5w9OvcDBnriqhAekw/s1600/P1140718.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKNUqP7NlyUJJunLjvPI4Y9wOyKRL0XYHnk2fEIKxUl80UdfKQBbUooQ740h0DCQxJt_LRD6MabKB_WhJPjoylY8RBtLUpVnOnrKaKjrsbMY6RqhbHmClMw5w9OvcDBnriqhAekw/s640/P1140718.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhP6G5amSLxFSblNzpmsQKQONdJZQGowz8Sz5104a5QBrot10-lPAWCi8qzOell3_qjKY1k_LBcHBcTvtdpWo8ZEZbHWcNeieS_OBFT8PtFFW5kmoqTWpRq-mzBfsCj_DndmNgyA/s1600/P1140729.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhP6G5amSLxFSblNzpmsQKQONdJZQGowz8Sz5104a5QBrot10-lPAWCi8qzOell3_qjKY1k_LBcHBcTvtdpWo8ZEZbHWcNeieS_OBFT8PtFFW5kmoqTWpRq-mzBfsCj_DndmNgyA/s640/P1140729.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Big smiles all round...fabulous vistas and the place all to ourselves</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmq1OxfXpaeX4lAm5cNJ2_9JiUAzgxflBjbUIBunvWvfQr52pb0nZRPa24SziBfhZDh8FwpsW7H8rVNL_PtLksprE4ovV7EBcDkyVs22bl4TbHNXz88nJu00wW9W5J0DhCQIpFPA/s1600/P1140732.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmq1OxfXpaeX4lAm5cNJ2_9JiUAzgxflBjbUIBunvWvfQr52pb0nZRPa24SziBfhZDh8FwpsW7H8rVNL_PtLksprE4ovV7EBcDkyVs22bl4TbHNXz88nJu00wW9W5J0DhCQIpFPA/s640/P1140732.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4YuEwwQG2Ir2TFZl8t5ozwRiSUVWG6RGFElnqybrFsKmo9aBaU6Oe9nX2EjKrlAadWAcc_yKWsxcNqxWRYTYXN3uZ2glMfQjZYRwsEFH98-_w5Z3jK92XmVuIAAic_LqE3cm0TA/s1600/P1140753.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4YuEwwQG2Ir2TFZl8t5ozwRiSUVWG6RGFElnqybrFsKmo9aBaU6Oe9nX2EjKrlAadWAcc_yKWsxcNqxWRYTYXN3uZ2glMfQjZYRwsEFH98-_w5Z3jK92XmVuIAAic_LqE3cm0TA/s640/P1140753.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Steep steps to the Winter Palace<span style="text-align: left;"> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH__ADELgLQw6LK3xxRX-t5EXO1jdbXn7p9ZXzF53inr0rynnFSpZony3wzWuNgK3D4YstTRrJET0TG3LZaHqc3TPSboLHkYC2JcNlZd1SLHlS92MEfVOB9Ngoy_xRl0Fw0jFvQg/s1600/P1140765.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH__ADELgLQw6LK3xxRX-t5EXO1jdbXn7p9ZXzF53inr0rynnFSpZony3wzWuNgK3D4YstTRrJET0TG3LZaHqc3TPSboLHkYC2JcNlZd1SLHlS92MEfVOB9Ngoy_xRl0Fw0jFvQg/s640/P1140765.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNHeuZ4wUciOl4OFzCS2hStLBdZe9YHEh-MAlxd_3673jYiC3bFOQ4422kShGS_zl2LpZ_rc4-X5R080WqJrr1RG-3_zjQAfi6X6ccdpZWIoEAZbU1RNi2R_7Lo0oSHarK6fom9w/s1600/P1140777.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNHeuZ4wUciOl4OFzCS2hStLBdZe9YHEh-MAlxd_3673jYiC3bFOQ4422kShGS_zl2LpZ_rc4-X5R080WqJrr1RG-3_zjQAfi6X6ccdpZWIoEAZbU1RNi2R_7Lo0oSHarK6fom9w/s640/P1140777.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZCveehQ_GGnZ7tGq4nV6vFkCrNjRHy5KEEai5LHMWHRIAA_qaKEeWhBnet_lSW0Rf0GcyoE-lO3_oHH3JtN7EOGoDCUWHaCKYmr9rfd_4L0f0NnPTAcZV83WQlOKm1c8FmWWHrA/s1600/P1140779.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZCveehQ_GGnZ7tGq4nV6vFkCrNjRHy5KEEai5LHMWHRIAA_qaKEeWhBnet_lSW0Rf0GcyoE-lO3_oHH3JtN7EOGoDCUWHaCKYmr9rfd_4L0f0NnPTAcZV83WQlOKm1c8FmWWHrA/s640/P1140779.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghZ18BS31ZQ-Gdz63nt-OHI4o0GjUeYVni1IFTpPi9-1m2axWRKL9W2_F1ZzVote455ZrMY0teCwHgHGPWrtzkzHIDjrmWq5l-v2HOH40djzXeaXMC8HZyKLvit4FcfOug9pnw5w/s1600/P1140786.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghZ18BS31ZQ-Gdz63nt-OHI4o0GjUeYVni1IFTpPi9-1m2axWRKL9W2_F1ZzVote455ZrMY0teCwHgHGPWrtzkzHIDjrmWq5l-v2HOH40djzXeaXMC8HZyKLvit4FcfOug9pnw5w/s640/P1140786.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT1gtuffEWtGyRTMSTOyp9Mqs02yHyDVOiuGfaQnna2FTMgBAyQdKZaG5rhDDVuR3n4jOLGDwwAz5QSe5tRQJSAs2NTVvlu4zCV_H6Q254SO_LAmOH76fMucPEjz8BV_qKvgs51A/s1600/P1140794.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="460" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT1gtuffEWtGyRTMSTOyp9Mqs02yHyDVOiuGfaQnna2FTMgBAyQdKZaG5rhDDVuR3n4jOLGDwwAz5QSe5tRQJSAs2NTVvlu4zCV_H6Q254SO_LAmOH76fMucPEjz8BV_qKvgs51A/s640/P1140794.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
Facing a three day road journey back to
Lhasa we made a short diversion to visit the hot springs at Tirthapuri at
4330m, the site of a cave used by Padmasambhava and his consort Yeshe Tsogyal
to meditate in the 8th century. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu50Enx_qsKhuh4yKbY-kdDspJ_6obSddnB3pQImz6dX0hBk6kO3pJrO8XKlLqCEChBFy4TG9t51JVhrqEppcroE8nHGfBUB-BQS8hFaLuuxh2zpHjI6mxEbNNHVn1yhoALFOm_Q/s1600/P1140942.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu50Enx_qsKhuh4yKbY-kdDspJ_6obSddnB3pQImz6dX0hBk6kO3pJrO8XKlLqCEChBFy4TG9t51JVhrqEppcroE8nHGfBUB-BQS8hFaLuuxh2zpHjI6mxEbNNHVn1yhoALFOm_Q/s640/P1140942.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mani stones at Tirthapuri</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje2boz1-HarH8HM0AZoD7AzCc8hSipHcre6ve7hQbp_A43NDlChqhiRFkpuKW1VzPLxbLmtzieksuTlQQeyUtHyYsYXu6WuGBy6qHIg7sAaKS-AnHR_vFU0rpYzkLMBd31wJyL_g/s1600/P1140943.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje2boz1-HarH8HM0AZoD7AzCc8hSipHcre6ve7hQbp_A43NDlChqhiRFkpuKW1VzPLxbLmtzieksuTlQQeyUtHyYsYXu6WuGBy6qHIg7sAaKS-AnHR_vFU0rpYzkLMBd31wJyL_g/s640/P1140943.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Temple at Tirthapuri, constructed around the Vajravarahi Cave where Padmasambhava and <br />
his consort Yeshe Tsogyel meditated in the 8th century</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVHfAC6db2p4cElPIm_of8ADs1LRFjRuBJuzkLaeAFyWadfVVruyTtLOIGMn42a7NgTGakCn1fu7UhIN48CEzGD-pkOiSGL3G7d8E01J7zV8sJU_f0y5f3ApfYaKd__GUGia3bhQ/s1600/P1140956.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVHfAC6db2p4cElPIm_of8ADs1LRFjRuBJuzkLaeAFyWadfVVruyTtLOIGMn42a7NgTGakCn1fu7UhIN48CEzGD-pkOiSGL3G7d8E01J7zV8sJU_f0y5f3ApfYaKd__GUGia3bhQ/s640/P1140956.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hot springs at Tirthapuri</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
But then, we had to head relentlessly
eastwards. More checkpoints, more stupid speed limits (and a convoy of Army
trucks bringing earthquake victims to resettlement camps), a nice guesthouse in
Saga followed by a more luxurious hotel in Shigatse, giving us all the
opportunity for the first hot shower in eight days. Bliss. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
Our final couple of days were spent
soaking up the cosmopolitan delights of Lhasa, a huge contrast to the emptiness
of the west. Drepung monastery, a huge monastic complex with four colleges just
northwest of Lhasa, was a particular gem to visit, much refurbished and rebuilt
since my last visit five years ago, apparently funded by Tibetans and the fees
demanded of foreigners for photography in each of the main temples.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCQDC-8SDMsm5MwzMH60TjSnGebBocAeqEfeySeO1LJwfS4BDyNml_vh439PgWssv1SwCINQKjbq0XbjI4OiKoq5QoNcFwYZRFIEWxn1qtmzxAkflyUjdiC_ucUO4VxyG6YxRatA/s1600/P1140914.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="468" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCQDC-8SDMsm5MwzMH60TjSnGebBocAeqEfeySeO1LJwfS4BDyNml_vh439PgWssv1SwCINQKjbq0XbjI4OiKoq5QoNcFwYZRFIEWxn1qtmzxAkflyUjdiC_ucUO4VxyG6YxRatA/s640/P1140914.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dropping back down to Bauer from Guge<span style="text-align: left;"> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi64DNJhgv4DQnDWqfzew8FUf1813zkFrVOTmNZ_neZJ6LRnHW3zRF3DpOfPs7GXhnSOoaZQMKu-lqmDrUTGacHvxCuXmJMCJ91xh3K3Tro6IBaQZWIc1BZAliE82icUtJxiz-XKg/s1600/P1150015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi64DNJhgv4DQnDWqfzew8FUf1813zkFrVOTmNZ_neZJ6LRnHW3zRF3DpOfPs7GXhnSOoaZQMKu-lqmDrUTGacHvxCuXmJMCJ91xh3K3Tro6IBaQZWIc1BZAliE82icUtJxiz-XKg/s640/P1150015.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Farewell to Gurla Mandhata, a magnificent looking mountain just north of the Nepalese border</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgACyxef3lZNWMzZ9rMxZyHF983qK9c54P6-HWplKlKTplyvlr4D0hIm1k3nPGeaWQ2-0_tAI5ksSvLJHzDMm3QaYlPR97IQA4yuGf-9c2vbvT3V8vd2AyE-Z7GLcTN_shPQjd-tQ/s1600/P1150073.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgACyxef3lZNWMzZ9rMxZyHF983qK9c54P6-HWplKlKTplyvlr4D0hIm1k3nPGeaWQ2-0_tAI5ksSvLJHzDMm3QaYlPR97IQA4yuGf-9c2vbvT3V8vd2AyE-Z7GLcTN_shPQjd-tQ/s640/P1150073.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tracking the Yarlung Tsampo en route to Lhasa from Shigatse. This eventually becomes the mighty Brahmaputra.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix7RuEA6HVovrnZqDuYUPm9YCbxZM2ZRb39GiyShQcBHo6htJzWFoVB3g3S3HLySDTyWFQRZzohlbMcJyszzxKYwVqY5coLEeTy6tQEv9PSTVZIJ7XyE6Cqx4Ul7NRb2MIG0TJlQ/s1600/P1150110.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix7RuEA6HVovrnZqDuYUPm9YCbxZM2ZRb39GiyShQcBHo6htJzWFoVB3g3S3HLySDTyWFQRZzohlbMcJyszzxKYwVqY5coLEeTy6tQEv9PSTVZIJ7XyE6Cqx4Ul7NRb2MIG0TJlQ/s640/P1150110.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drepung monastery, just north west of Lhasa, much restored since my last visit five years ago</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr9lYYO6oe7khm3LFdhet79OP8Nv_lJRgOBkzZh16Lo0GhaqfKJ6GIUk0VVnxTjFxwXDttxUoXOv1GfPTTU4hfZhwWPDEZjw4-FiaNmtPrOzthzbfgG5onS8lL036CWtL5eoFuZw/s1600/P1150172.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr9lYYO6oe7khm3LFdhet79OP8Nv_lJRgOBkzZh16Lo0GhaqfKJ6GIUk0VVnxTjFxwXDttxUoXOv1GfPTTU4hfZhwWPDEZjw4-FiaNmtPrOzthzbfgG5onS8lL036CWtL5eoFuZw/s640/P1150172.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The iconic Potala Palace, Lhasa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBB2BjeDkUN7Ga7peYuVDHzLXo0zWbHwS1EEkNRTPwaTVvJnw-KZmdEl8upa_spRoxoZvKey5m__bvxNLOiGormfWPRpuQTH3whLiceLgUQWIiDp_m84W2SCiM7Q43-EPFLtm9Rw/s1600/IMG_1893.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="170" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBB2BjeDkUN7Ga7peYuVDHzLXo0zWbHwS1EEkNRTPwaTVvJnw-KZmdEl8upa_spRoxoZvKey5m__bvxNLOiGormfWPRpuQTH3whLiceLgUQWIiDp_m84W2SCiM7Q43-EPFLtm9Rw/s640/IMG_1893.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYvy93139aBV3nu_8g85j9y06i_9p4Ab22N9MTH2ptkLgp2ZCGa-erGrQ4RP8WfHUpTFG66-3SOD81P8DXraTrUsZpAVFG_elOQYOy1yg1lCnacgX0OAtCyqtrqFZBqCJk7NGJyg/s1600/IMG_1897.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYvy93139aBV3nu_8g85j9y06i_9p4Ab22N9MTH2ptkLgp2ZCGa-erGrQ4RP8WfHUpTFG66-3SOD81P8DXraTrUsZpAVFG_elOQYOy1yg1lCnacgX0OAtCyqtrqFZBqCJk7NGJyg/s640/IMG_1897.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
<b>Final reflections<o:p></o:p></b><br />
<b><br /></b></div>
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
I leave Tibet with a tinge of regret.
I'm unlikely to return again, this my second visit, and feel that the continued
modernisation of this huge region will swamp what is left of the ancient ways.
The Chinese have made amazing improvements to the infrastructure and clearly
there is a great deal of wealth being generated in the urban areas, designer
clothes shops and BMW dealerships in Lhasa a testament to that. But one does
not have to venture far from Lhasa to see the other side of the coin - an
agrarian, subsistence economy where the traditional Tibetan population continue
to toil in the fields, using their own labour to dig irrigation ditches and sow
crops of barley, still using horse or yak drawn ploughs, and returning to small
houses enclosed by walls covered in yak dung drying in the sun for future fuel
needs.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNudQhgtBM-Vawv7pDrK60sOPoUZl4B9CwJzEfSyYgP8BVNNbGwetX0bncey3QWt4WqNjrpt9sxcOfbAg8Mdhdjbj-P5Xw5MNpDDnNB-99aIDtvxVu6FdTJ9ET2ZiBtAHPlI4a7A/s1600/P1130340.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNudQhgtBM-Vawv7pDrK60sOPoUZl4B9CwJzEfSyYgP8BVNNbGwetX0bncey3QWt4WqNjrpt9sxcOfbAg8Mdhdjbj-P5Xw5MNpDDnNB-99aIDtvxVu6FdTJ9ET2ZiBtAHPlI4a7A/s640/P1130340.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfvEBcDJxhwW9_c1in__ur7DaG9miyeDwYWjnuNj9uh2PY5cjx_x1C3o1i52BEbzNjD_cHUSGgY-8El10q9z2dpDuS3pjRYaR0ikyQtCzTYHS3RkAWVVPMzJxv5yJJ4nxh0_gTTA/s1600/P1130344.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfvEBcDJxhwW9_c1in__ur7DaG9miyeDwYWjnuNj9uh2PY5cjx_x1C3o1i52BEbzNjD_cHUSGgY-8El10q9z2dpDuS3pjRYaR0ikyQtCzTYHS3RkAWVVPMzJxv5yJJ4nxh0_gTTA/s640/P1130344.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhknQFM41dQCbo5rbl_zlY084zW9KRgQgSIlvyLtEF3nXc0_9VNg14DqLxejekMcb-_1g2HFVfroVD-cehyIwYzgfj2M72-9Jr8390DYpulkhXQI90Siy4IrCSoRNlkD0SoqRhFoA/s1600/P1130726.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhknQFM41dQCbo5rbl_zlY084zW9KRgQgSIlvyLtEF3nXc0_9VNg14DqLxejekMcb-_1g2HFVfroVD-cehyIwYzgfj2M72-9Jr8390DYpulkhXQI90Siy4IrCSoRNlkD0SoqRhFoA/s640/P1130726.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
Some monasteries still appear to have
some life left in them, but it was particularly noticeable that most of the
people either circumambulating them or queuing to give offerings of butter were
in the older age group, and that not once did we see young novice monks. Of
course, the monasteries are becoming a new money-spinner for the authorities
and old thangkas are now fashionable in the auction rooms of Beijing and
Shanghai, fetching ludicrously high prices, rather like the interest that
persists in artefacts of the Ming Dynasty.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
Living in Tibet as a Tibetan must be
galling. Chinese is now the only language used in schools, there are tight
restrictions on movement, and various aspects of behaviour (for example, our
driver had to register his details every time petrol was purchased following
the high incidence of immolations by monks in the recent past). The speed
limits outside the cities are frustrating and the requirement to continually
show travel permits a major limitation on personal freedom and privacy.
Tibetans know that they are constantly monitored by undercover authorities and
the ubiquitous CCTV in urban areas.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
The control on personal movement in the
country is a major challenge for all visitors to Tibet, and we were very lucky
to have achieved what we did, many fellow visitors stuck in the immediate
environs of Lhasa as the authorities over-reacted to continuing earth tremors
in Nepal. As our guide said, the rulings on permits change as often as the
weather. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
And the Tibetans themselves do not make
it easy for westerners either. Hotels are adequate, but guesthouses, whilst
often characterful, are, for the most part, lacking in hygienic toilet facilities,
with plumbing rudimentary or completely absent in places. Littering is a
national disgrace, even on the sacred circuit around Kailas, and public toilets
demand a strong stomach. Food is generally fine, albeit rather monotonous if
one just sticks to Tibetan restaurants, and none of our group suffered from any
notable stomach upsets.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
But, this is still a country that is
compelling to many, and justifiably so. The traditional Tibetans are amongst
the most devout and spiritual people on the planet, and the institutions of
Tibetan Buddhism are a marvel of artistic and metaphysical complexity, the
colours and sounds unique to this part of the world, with a history going back
to the 7th century when the Tibetan Kings were first exposed to Buddhism from
Nepal and China.</div>
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
The landscapes of mountains, canyons
and vast tracts of high altitude desert are stupendous in scale and are majestic in
their barrenness and remoteness, criss-crossed by some still pursuing a nomadic
existence, herding yaks and sheep. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
So, take your choice. Prepare for some
considerable challenges - the control by the authorities, the privations of
basic accommodation and quality of sanitation in remoter parts, and the long
distances involved. But also be prepared to have one of the most unique experiences
of your life - a glimpse into a mediaeval world of subsistence living and
devotion, gaining an introductory<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>insight into one of the most complex metaphysical systems on Earth, and
taking in the vast empty landscapes punctuated by some of the highest mountains
in the world, ultimately the source of four great Asian rivers. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
Like so many other regions of the
world, the relentless modernisation of society, with enviable
telecommunications, audacious infrastructure projects and the rise of western
materialism in the younger echelons of society, will swamp traditional ways of
life, the spiritual aspects becoming a curio and the increasing polarisation of
the people into the urban rich and rural poor. But, haven't we seen this all
before...?<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
Finally, my thanks to a fine bunch of travelling companions, who endured constant uncertainty, occasional discomfort, cold, long distances and poor sanitation at almost every stop (thank goodness for storm drains, ladies!). But suitably fortified by endless quantities of momos, noodles, egg fried rice and Lhasa beer, these minor inconveniences were set aside, and all cheerfully completed the tour.<br />
Memory cards full, wallets only half-emptied, and with stories to tell for a lifetime.<br />
<br />
Thank you Cadi, Ralph, Carole, Eileen and Chris for your patience, flexibility, good humour, and for your lack of complaints!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbH2uyYejSkD-77wILySk_Glo3hdJBUfwjZh_ys8gIkTrmC_RRBZbJ6ZbBqq4TELbfnNiCdREhu4CBMNZw36GitNSrjOArMukEjrj4OCTOwVGsQuHk1yRy-6oH8SLo-xgDxZj8Ng/s1600/P1130292.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbH2uyYejSkD-77wILySk_Glo3hdJBUfwjZh_ys8gIkTrmC_RRBZbJ6ZbBqq4TELbfnNiCdREhu4CBMNZw36GitNSrjOArMukEjrj4OCTOwVGsQuHk1yRy-6oH8SLo-xgDxZj8Ng/s640/P1130292.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJNW6lJbofKwM40LJ8GiDaDneXHO5GeIg7hSmvtuW9d7YtozWnVyAN3e2AgwNaiLubo_1WVDVHJv_zt1M8oi5u70q64eib-ZMFYkx2bYCcpeNOPyHDbzznWmlVeVl17YNK6qDfWA/s1600/IMG_1629.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJNW6lJbofKwM40LJ8GiDaDneXHO5GeIg7hSmvtuW9d7YtozWnVyAN3e2AgwNaiLubo_1WVDVHJv_zt1M8oi5u70q64eib-ZMFYkx2bYCcpeNOPyHDbzznWmlVeVl17YNK6qDfWA/s640/IMG_1629.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWA4-vOPHacjvh0oQQl5WPnyh86LYLlTwIKfnKWoviBDvVWF-ZT_kmZbGVmKmKSH45x09ZHAX0oeWF_lH1BP8Alzjr0cjHOVTnHXceKu4ZaDkjPh5AOWJSBSt_kmp29lVIJy0K8g/s1600/IMG_1765.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWA4-vOPHacjvh0oQQl5WPnyh86LYLlTwIKfnKWoviBDvVWF-ZT_kmZbGVmKmKSH45x09ZHAX0oeWF_lH1BP8Alzjr0cjHOVTnHXceKu4ZaDkjPh5AOWJSBSt_kmp29lVIJy0K8g/s640/IMG_1765.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<b>Postscript</b><br />
<br />
Having been associated with Exodus Travels between 2005 and 2010, I can wholeheartedly recommend them as a first class trekking company and I can attest to their genuine efforts to help the people of Nepal recover from the awful earthquakes that occurred in April and May of 2015.<br />
<br />
If you've enjoyed reading this blog, please consider a donation, however small, to their <a href="http://uk.virginmoneygiving.com/fundraiser-web/fundraiser/showFundraiserProfilePage.action?userUrl=nepalearthquake&isTeam=true&d-49489-p=2" target="_blank">charitable appeal</a>.<br />
<br />
And, better, consider going to Nepal this Autumn when the trekking season starts again. A good selection of adventures can be found <a href="http://www.exodus.co.uk/nepal-holidays" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
<br />
If you're in any doubt about the tumultuous impact of the earthquakes, have a look at the <a href="http://earthquake.usgs.gov/earthquakes/eventpage/us20002926#general_summary" target="_blank">US Geological Survey</a>.</div>
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-GB</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0cm;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:"Times New Roman";
border:none;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
<!--EndFragment--><br />
<div class="Body" style="tab-stops: 14.15pt;">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9888425.post-23636908395141375692014-08-27T08:54:00.002+00:002014-08-27T16:48:24.755+00:00Arctic - August 2014<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYrfqMXdSp62SapPkwvbhd2HYHBRlhfFJw0F1yXvVUpceBUE99a6UD0YxC9hyphenhyphenIAozCnNySdIGyOAPSIQ0xm1_1cpu268ABGxr5pxjfdBH2-_vhD6qLOvIc74ZNuN5QZqUBuMzb-w/s1600/P1100437.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYrfqMXdSp62SapPkwvbhd2HYHBRlhfFJw0F1yXvVUpceBUE99a6UD0YxC9hyphenhyphenIAozCnNySdIGyOAPSIQ0xm1_1cpu268ABGxr5pxjfdBH2-_vhD6qLOvIc74ZNuN5QZqUBuMzb-w/s1600/P1100437.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Well, it's been far too hot in the UK this summer, so where to go to cool down?</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Why, go north of course!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This'll be my second time in Arctic waters, the first exploring Svalbard a few years ago, and this time taking an expedition ship from Churchill in Manitoba, crossing the Hudson Bay to reach Baffin Island and finishing the voyage on the west coast of Greenland. Exciting stuff!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I'm travelling with long time friend and fellow adventurer Richard, last seen summiting the Mönch and more recently exceeding 70kph on his road bike...</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Millions of us travel each year by plane, an event now much on a par with getting on a bus. But it's an entirely different experience travelling by sea, particularly when venturing into the polar regions. It's exciting. The vast bulk of our ship, the ice strengthened Sea Explorer, appearing on the dockside gets the adrenalin going. This is going to be our home over the next two weeks. Running the gauntlet of sudden storms, ice bergs and calving glaciers, our ship will become an old friend, protecting and nurturing us as we travel northwards beyond the Arctic Circle.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Here's our trip diary...</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Day 1</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b><br /></b></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht0fvhxax40VULc7vTHg9tziLg5NYDntOa08p4cz_GR0cIPHkVBJx_HvP6q4lDdhsy0e_cn6TLM6YgoqV-gIrEJH7zI_kd0aSkVCN1C1tBPS74LiMYsR5sAkXHVb4xOqopjVrxWA/s1600/IMG_0470.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht0fvhxax40VULc7vTHg9tziLg5NYDntOa08p4cz_GR0cIPHkVBJx_HvP6q4lDdhsy0e_cn6TLM6YgoqV-gIrEJH7zI_kd0aSkVCN1C1tBPS74LiMYsR5sAkXHVb4xOqopjVrxWA/s1600/IMG_0470.jpg" height="466" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Greenland, our final destination, seen from our Icelandair flight from London via Keflavik</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Body2">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">With my previous history of
working in the adventure travel industry I took the opportunity to meet old
friends and colleagues in Toronto - the excellent folk at <a href="http://www.quarkexpeditions.com/" target="_blank">Quark Expeditions</a>,
and Dallyce Macas, owner of <a href="http://www.eminencecanada.com/" target="_blank">Eminence</a>, a travel representation company. A great
afternoon catching up with everyone before an impressive dinner at <i><a href="http://patriatoronto.com/" target="_blank">Patria</a></i> in
downtown Toronto which provided excellent Spanish tapas. A nice way to start
what will be an epic trip.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body2">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Day 2</b><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b><br /></b></span></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7OtesAr2RHnPHAEXrk3VDtXua3prUu17gIwnfS1HpGl1WIKa_SH_9zi8T95HXubhTt6Edjxhp4b2CGKAEFkrvHDYeFuBD5PDJ6IeXV7t-OYQCZvViPzJUE5mvGwkYi-PdHULW6g/s1600/P1100189.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7OtesAr2RHnPHAEXrk3VDtXua3prUu17gIwnfS1HpGl1WIKa_SH_9zi8T95HXubhTt6Edjxhp4b2CGKAEFkrvHDYeFuBD5PDJ6IeXV7t-OYQCZvViPzJUE5mvGwkYi-PdHULW6g/s1600/P1100189.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We took a private
charter flight on First Air, with the distinctive polar bear image on the tail
fin of the ageing 737 setting the scene for our journey ahead. It was 2 hour 45
minute flight to Churchill on the south west shores of Hudson Bay at the point
where the Churchill River enters the Bay.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Fortuitously, we
arrived during the calving season for Beluga Whales, and our first stop in
Churchill was a beach overlooking the Bay to view the many whales feeding here.
What looked like white-capped waves were in fact many Belugas, a sight only
seen once a year for a week or two. There's an estimated 4,000 whales in the
area right now. At this time of the year they come here to calve and the
mingling of the warmer fresh water of the Churchill River with the salt water
of the Hudson Bay facilitates the annual moult of the Beluga too. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_DLDDfMOePyVYihCVpIYLkohYmWnHz-CU6314WRJv_RlQp-rrmwha6bxxwdjyLU62581BPNdbtjYzdh2tLj8d0hibvxq2c1VNC6ZUKYUtobGOGu82EFmPhqGorMFfk94KKXd69A/s1600/IMG_6577.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_DLDDfMOePyVYihCVpIYLkohYmWnHz-CU6314WRJv_RlQp-rrmwha6bxxwdjyLU62581BPNdbtjYzdh2tLj8d0hibvxq2c1VNC6ZUKYUtobGOGu82EFmPhqGorMFfk94KKXd69A/s1600/IMG_6577.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Belugas off Churchill, Manitoba</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis6gyOtp_tZuSck3SEn0zvpTabmSpGCLEF-67EZbCACP5opGhCfTDcd7PllgoP8OWlxwi6yDRwgWUfubIqlQ6gSjPmsivxa012ZFey4mLPbz0_N2UXnI9vTEg77_Z-HGjsU3iGPg/s1600/IMG_6595.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis6gyOtp_tZuSck3SEn0zvpTabmSpGCLEF-67EZbCACP5opGhCfTDcd7PllgoP8OWlxwi6yDRwgWUfubIqlQ6gSjPmsivxa012ZFey4mLPbz0_N2UXnI9vTEg77_Z-HGjsU3iGPg/s1600/IMG_6595.jpg" height="640" width="602" /></a></div>
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We then took a
short tour of Churchill, including lunch, a museum visit, and a trip to see the
local polar bear holding facility where the many polar bears that wander into
the town end up before being released at a distance from the human settlement.
Bears frequently visit the town, evidenced by one recent mauling of a local out
walking early in the morning. And it's understandable when you consider that
the local population of bears on the western fringes of Hudson Bay is estimated
at 950+ animals, somewhat greater than the permanent population of Churchill.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg616yxjPHMYQGNH1A1sTZzu__K4-_O6mLOuzdNzL5JOqjSc-ggTDYsUYg7xvfCizI6KX3p9PqaWvCr6kPRlnbLn9WZx2Iv4TyRCGgCwmP6AslNRnfgBJ_jv8MgUEkmf8gsJqVh1A/s1600/P1100198.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg616yxjPHMYQGNH1A1sTZzu__K4-_O6mLOuzdNzL5JOqjSc-ggTDYsUYg7xvfCizI6KX3p9PqaWvCr6kPRlnbLn9WZx2Iv4TyRCGgCwmP6AslNRnfgBJ_jv8MgUEkmf8gsJqVh1A/s1600/P1100198.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Welcome to Churchill!</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnhqEAA9hKotLH1We8VdrV7zNcALZdefIwSdPsrlnMgZHx6fE4dLrWsv_WyBwSu_AQu4_eTULB-D8WgdheGvNHTwiBlpMqDuq8uUkLbzdVFHNbr8K2jnkrhg7KNLoIBYq-F2wxwg/s1600/P1100203.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnhqEAA9hKotLH1We8VdrV7zNcALZdefIwSdPsrlnMgZHx6fE4dLrWsv_WyBwSu_AQu4_eTULB-D8WgdheGvNHTwiBlpMqDuq8uUkLbzdVFHNbr8K2jnkrhg7KNLoIBYq-F2wxwg/s1600/P1100203.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs778zHHL5sNrZuHtq7VEQpo2ZT_syjCenvdZk2qB65iAgtd0eLS8DsbZu50dt4LxPJrETVKnpNjZonXH1QjfL_7uHZAlpXKn2hx2x9_r3q2FGSPFrz0OZbVS3TLx7ens5U6nejQ/s1600/P1100211.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs778zHHL5sNrZuHtq7VEQpo2ZT_syjCenvdZk2qB65iAgtd0eLS8DsbZu50dt4LxPJrETVKnpNjZonXH1QjfL_7uHZAlpXKn2hx2x9_r3q2FGSPFrz0OZbVS3TLx7ens5U6nejQ/s1600/P1100211.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Boarding our home for the next two weeks, the M/V Sea Explorer</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVUhIe0oLMo_l_iYhDDaoerVfoLuWaOyDna5da0MbxycLpwx4wyaYextvSlyT1Y9_iu-ZNdqCzXR9JMIpRcunDJ4hMFfG_OR5T1x4JO3y5iqhuJnw-VK1lDS_zOoG5qw_VcYUaiQ/s1600/P1100227.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVUhIe0oLMo_l_iYhDDaoerVfoLuWaOyDna5da0MbxycLpwx4wyaYextvSlyT1Y9_iu-ZNdqCzXR9JMIpRcunDJ4hMFfG_OR5T1x4JO3y5iqhuJnw-VK1lDS_zOoG5qw_VcYUaiQ/s1600/P1100227.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7eKN8oGK1_d3Sr86xqhhqlr3AbjXjV5ivnwUbnyTAIMAi7oMGS6OmVj2JTo-3b4ZilPgOYPtb5f8W179uK5eM3_ey_X5XfOIHmvQYl0wm-2N7APmPbCVuAiWyBh9QzwK9aL5lJQ/s1600/P1100231.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7eKN8oGK1_d3Sr86xqhhqlr3AbjXjV5ivnwUbnyTAIMAi7oMGS6OmVj2JTo-3b4ZilPgOYPtb5f8W179uK5eM3_ey_X5XfOIHmvQYl0wm-2N7APmPbCVuAiWyBh9QzwK9aL5lJQ/s1600/P1100231.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Toughing it out in the Arctic...</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Late afternoon we
boarded our ship, the Sea Explorer, but not before a farcical customs check on
baggage, and found our luxury cabins and facilities. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But no time to
relax. We were quickly on to the Zodiacs, giving us many close sightings of the
Belugas, some blowing bubbles right next to our Zodiacs, swimming closely past
to have a look at us, some in groups of three or four, the calves grey in
colour unlike the brilliant white of their parents. This was a unique and
unforgettable experience, especially when one small pod surfaced near us,
issuing a whistling sound as they passed, justifying their popular name - 'Sea
Canaries'. What a great start to the trip!<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Day 3</b><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b><br /></b></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The ship took a
northerly track overnight on relatively calm water, a gentle swell only,
bringing us, in bright clear weather, to Marble Island, a relatively small
island with sheltered inlet used historically by whalers in the 1920 and 1930s.
It's greyish white rocks rise some 20m out of the sea, white quartzite, very
smooth in places and bearing the marks of glacial striation from the most
recent glacial period, interspersed with patterned ground and erratics of red
sandstone, greywhacke, granite and gneiss. Geologically fascinating, with
evidence from raised beaches that the island is still rising, at about one inch
per year, as it was depressed into the earth's crust under glaciation and is
now in the process of bounding back.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJsqHP2u8HtTvZZKYerFpfYgdZm-8xj-lHBVhJr3MBSB7mmbxQUpO4O4MhyphenhyphenoUF3UooGci0fpFn82aGR3UmCNbPMEGOkZy9kgUZT-owMTV2_aHUbMqkRWEnO7DAYKcmZet2SF3o5A/s1600/P1100248.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJsqHP2u8HtTvZZKYerFpfYgdZm-8xj-lHBVhJr3MBSB7mmbxQUpO4O4MhyphenhyphenoUF3UooGci0fpFn82aGR3UmCNbPMEGOkZy9kgUZT-owMTV2_aHUbMqkRWEnO7DAYKcmZet2SF3o5A/s1600/P1100248.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Colin Souness, glaciologist, on Marble Island</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Unfortunately,
the island is also littered with the graves of many whalers who perished here,
and also that of James Knight, an early explorer.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As we walked the
island, we had time to study the diverse tundra vegetation, including many
forms of lichen and moss, interspersed with patches of Arctic Cottongrass,
small flowers, dwarf trees like the tiny Northern Willow and swathes of ground
hugging berries (Arctic Blueberry, Crowberry). Easy walking, though our
expedition guide was ever watchful for polar bear, so flare gun and rifle armed
and ready just in case we were surprised.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Some bird life
seen too, some Sandhill cranes, swans, Canadian geese and various waders, plus
evidence of Arctic fox and lemming.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Late afternoon we
returned to the ship, on a one metre swell under leaden skies, a sign of the
rockier night ahead.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The day concluded
with the Captain's Cocktail Welcome before dinner.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Day 4</b><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b><br /></b></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Overnight the
ship moved further north and then north east towards Southampton Island, the
sea rougher now with a 30 knot wind and light rain.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The deteriorating
weather forced an abandonment of our intended landing on the diminutive Walrus
Island and we proceeded eastwards towards Coats Island through the Fisher
Strait, the waves now swollen to about 3m in a Force 4-5 wind, with random
surges which ensured that we always had 'one hand for the ship'. But we made
good speed, at about 15 knots, as we were tracking the direction of the
current. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Whilst in transit
Laurie Dexter, the ship's historian, delivered a talk on human development
across the North American Arctic, followed by Bob Headland on the history of
the discovery and subsequent mapping of the Arctic regions.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Late morning
brought us to Bencus Island, just off Coats Island, and a regular haul out for
walrus. But due to shallow water we had to moor 0.5 miles off shore, and sea
conditions once again precluded any Zodiac excursions. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Our next
objective is Cape Dorset, the southwestern tip of Baffin Island. Early evening
we took shelter at Cape Pembrooke en route, but big seas ruled out any Zodiac
attempts again.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYgnHMMRghePhUFSJ_Nip8j866JtpW576wYbvM9rBrslkn1wFDPnlthHO3m0-P5XJDlc4pUsoG0nI3ErsoVQ7fcInbD7wD4s5SGlLt6opecdqkXMmLHim28zjhIqFcfQuuY5IJEg/s1600/P1100269.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYgnHMMRghePhUFSJ_Nip8j866JtpW576wYbvM9rBrslkn1wFDPnlthHO3m0-P5XJDlc4pUsoG0nI3ErsoVQ7fcInbD7wD4s5SGlLt6opecdqkXMmLHim28zjhIqFcfQuuY5IJEg/s1600/P1100269.jpg" height="504" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Essential rehydration on a bumpy crossing on Hudson Bay</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPT7P8rC962txVkHZF43Qux8UZSo8SnTUdDVZbKzjoaR2mKLvqNnnXvqcKyWl_N5TjaGW9GxGyIoP0gjDXRckPoKpb_vPiXnRcdGau72LflCmBF0onLTSvBh-LdqSe5IH-2MY6PA/s1600/P1100271.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPT7P8rC962txVkHZF43Qux8UZSo8SnTUdDVZbKzjoaR2mKLvqNnnXvqcKyWl_N5TjaGW9GxGyIoP0gjDXRckPoKpb_vPiXnRcdGau72LflCmBF0onLTSvBh-LdqSe5IH-2MY6PA/s1600/P1100271.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Greenland brew</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Day 5</b><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It was a very
bumpy crossing overnight, entering the Hudson Strait as we slept, literally
rolled back and forth like a piece of pastry by the motion of the ship! With a
wind speed of 30 knots, grey skies and a temperature of 5 degrees C we passed another
potential landing site at Salisbury Island and continued onwards to Cape
Dorset, an Inuit community famed for its concentration of artists.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Resigned to
another three hours of transit, we were to have some more immediate excitement
though. Just as a lecture on Inuit art was concluding, a large flat-topped
iceberg appeared on the port side. Measuring approximately one square nautical
mile and estimated to contain some 324 million cubic metres of ice, this huge
piece had floated down from northern Greenland (most likely the Petermann
Glacier which had two major 'calving' events in 2012), southwards through
Baffin Bay into the Davis Strait and now residing in the Hudson Strait. This,
apparently, is a very rare sighting in the Arctic, such a large chunk of
glacier and not to be confused with the form more commonly seen in the
Antarctic (which are sections of ice shelf unique to that region). At its
furthest extent a large iceberg had detached itself from the main body, and was
beginning to tilt, its sides revealing the curved erosion of the waves that
will have battered it for months. There was also a stream of brash ice in its
wake. Now it feels like we're in a polar region!<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMWtIUbr-RLF0441okvfANcTfLrwicuXlyOP_jeV37nFfoKvv_LsJYExAAmW5Dn2uhd1CEMKa-Er46wVH_i25mEORWfphyd5M8oxP8QvveNRsskhc3hqx4yFY7dMQPQPl4LMq1tA/s1600/P1100289.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMWtIUbr-RLF0441okvfANcTfLrwicuXlyOP_jeV37nFfoKvv_LsJYExAAmW5Dn2uhd1CEMKa-Er46wVH_i25mEORWfphyd5M8oxP8QvveNRsskhc3hqx4yFY7dMQPQPl4LMq1tA/s1600/P1100289.jpg" height="290" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuiNb8bWAdP2SeOWBFAsbM4Kt-2XPPkgTXGKXBR8vLuTeCLD_pTGeSGX1Gj6gihk8vHyLy1b3J4faiYOhiUPHU_xGQOSb2E7IrhH3BTDG7CTck8rDy4u63j5SgNfBxHKu4fiCcIQ/s1600/P1100301.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuiNb8bWAdP2SeOWBFAsbM4Kt-2XPPkgTXGKXBR8vLuTeCLD_pTGeSGX1Gj6gihk8vHyLy1b3J4faiYOhiUPHU_xGQOSb2E7IrhH3BTDG7CTck8rDy4u63j5SgNfBxHKu4fiCcIQ/s1600/P1100301.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwHI4JrN_N3bU08m2jlz_RIcEqVDEMCTGDfiSUinhXpshvxdK39huRcg4DS94gE4Vrn5Nl8EPujS51Hu1UO5B7LNLgoUWhhdV3vQvg8Dh7eQOBP0aixh5kdwf_Ndt2sKzOFwgekQ/s1600/P1100302.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwHI4JrN_N3bU08m2jlz_RIcEqVDEMCTGDfiSUinhXpshvxdK39huRcg4DS94gE4Vrn5Nl8EPujS51Hu1UO5B7LNLgoUWhhdV3vQvg8Dh7eQOBP0aixh5kdwf_Ndt2sKzOFwgekQ/s1600/P1100302.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The huge iceberg seen on route to Cape Dorset</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 120%;">Cape Dorset was
to be our first 'cultural' stop, and with local guides we toured this small
settlement famed for its art industry, mainly carvings of</span><span style="line-height: 120%;"> </span><span style="line-height: 120%;">'dancing bears' and other fauna of the area
in local serpentine rock and </span><span style="line-height: 19px;">soapstone,</span><span style="line-height: 120%;"> plus prints of images produced by local artists.
Locals whizz around on quad bikes, their homes brightly painted to break the
bleakness of their physical environs. They get four to five tourist ships per
year here, so there was a lot of effort made to make us very welcome, and, of
course, to buy their wares.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoNY9ICS-gvxTgxOCzGgGi5kvq0n5MSkpbY4xbjNkRZ3vZW90T10mAdRKc_xHXWL9k7MgfYpF43KlEnJ-JdkFC_Ye8xSNIdsDcc_ZYSa59YYKQ7SJ86xAoKr8mZhpFEnNSCk39yQ/s1600/P1100334.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoNY9ICS-gvxTgxOCzGgGi5kvq0n5MSkpbY4xbjNkRZ3vZW90T10mAdRKc_xHXWL9k7MgfYpF43KlEnJ-JdkFC_Ye8xSNIdsDcc_ZYSa59YYKQ7SJ86xAoKr8mZhpFEnNSCk39yQ/s1600/P1100334.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Local art for sale</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW2NnAAMn4mqGGI3CP8v6QLEoO2R8mHFzWNGzX353KOSJbwKul_wbNXjWcrZlnNtdILFGlr5fDgJeo8Gpcxt34EIwr4X-GU29DNlIefIf4hMZXeUy_EhMG9A92W11d3SOX38bVPA/s1600/P1100330.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW2NnAAMn4mqGGI3CP8v6QLEoO2R8mHFzWNGzX353KOSJbwKul_wbNXjWcrZlnNtdILFGlr5fDgJeo8Gpcxt34EIwr4X-GU29DNlIefIf4hMZXeUy_EhMG9A92W11d3SOX38bVPA/s1600/P1100330.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJjn7EO9mT7g48ISiSO_adq_HMxmtuEg2zxKhX1fWAbEqVV5DxDkTLiks4mDE_R7TzXq496Tq05JGA0mLCigUoUh6njDvYf4PnzyjorX0CGmdNnXFD-HG7wrLnRbeKs31qnFjwBw/s1600/P1100341.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJjn7EO9mT7g48ISiSO_adq_HMxmtuEg2zxKhX1fWAbEqVV5DxDkTLiks4mDE_R7TzXq496Tq05JGA0mLCigUoUh6njDvYf4PnzyjorX0CGmdNnXFD-HG7wrLnRbeKs31qnFjwBw/s1600/P1100341.jpg" height="460" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Heading for Mallikjuaq Island</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Later we landed
on Mallikjuaq Island, just offshore from Cape Dorset, to view the remains of
ancient Thule settlements, observe a classic inuksuk - a pile of stones used to
mark a geographic point of significance like a fording point on a river, a
navigational landmark or a stash of hunted meat - and the remains of other
settlement in the form of kayak stands and tent circles. As usual our guides
carried arms in case of polar bear. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic2FdQsy-vMKGKj2ErupSzO3vnD8lVsazfwHfUE5xnI27VSbiO43BSEOyIEFoLLtCTwt_iDCMio6-P_eKuflTwXxHFcZ0o_j_dkVvyWcAtoIyS_9mM_uuJ74WoODCk5BfAlxqwmQ/s1600/IMG_9127.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic2FdQsy-vMKGKj2ErupSzO3vnD8lVsazfwHfUE5xnI27VSbiO43BSEOyIEFoLLtCTwt_iDCMio6-P_eKuflTwXxHFcZ0o_j_dkVvyWcAtoIyS_9mM_uuJ74WoODCk5BfAlxqwmQ/s1600/IMG_9127.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Local Inuit guide on </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Mallijuaq Island</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPmU4kISY-9GOZ6w-4f_ioSlVY8BB_hU0fzYgGtgIdiUshZf1KxwbEgBsKtRrK652vPExprR2razL4MoiJxozplP__inlM9BIR1hPUHx2X1YaA9sFq_8NoXdfcoHQY_nOJmBv7DA/s1600/IMG_9124.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPmU4kISY-9GOZ6w-4f_ioSlVY8BB_hU0fzYgGtgIdiUshZf1KxwbEgBsKtRrK652vPExprR2razL4MoiJxozplP__inlM9BIR1hPUHx2X1YaA9sFq_8NoXdfcoHQY_nOJmBv7DA/s1600/IMG_9124.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Inuksuk on Mallijuaq Island</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As we returned to
the ship, on a much calmer sea now, the sun was starting to poke through the
clouds, a good omen for the following day. Some of the local Inuit joined us on
the ship for dinner, two of whom demonstrated the local tradition of throat
singing, a semi competitive activity, where one party sets a rhythm and tone,
the other having to match or complement it, until one falters. Clever, engaging
entertainment.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Day 6</b><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b><br /></b></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Overnight we
headed south from Baffin Island across the Hudson Strait and moored at Digges
Island, in northwest Quebec. Once home, over a thousand years ago, to the
Dorset people, the island of gneiss rock of the Laurentian Shield (with some
black doloritic intrusions), has remnants of some thirty stone houses, a well
preserved fox/wolf trap and numerous inukchuit. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg62umJHhK1Hy9lp-jox8rufP8l8p9TEdkwO4j2GwAx_4zKbXtganWTRAkZ8fnc8cR_OINAThw3wKLrnpmkJFvyhGgbA8KfWF-f8K_dFlwmCx-GasHV7l7oQzUMgCSFdaK-hFAIWw/s1600/P1100371.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg62umJHhK1Hy9lp-jox8rufP8l8p9TEdkwO4j2GwAx_4zKbXtganWTRAkZ8fnc8cR_OINAThw3wKLrnpmkJFvyhGgbA8KfWF-f8K_dFlwmCx-GasHV7l7oQzUMgCSFdaK-hFAIWw/s1600/P1100371.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Inuksuk on Digges Island</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Digges Island,
just off the mainland, is best known for being the spot where Henry Hudson met
Inuit people for the first time, in 1610, just before his crew mutinied and
left him for dead. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">From our various
viewpoints we could see lateral moraine from past glaciers, raised beaches at
different levels, and thousands of Brunning guillemots flying low over the sea on
their way to feed. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But the most
fascinating part of this landing was the Zodiac journey, on calm clear water
filled by small black pteropods (small mollusk with lateral fins, which give
the appearance of actually flying through the water) and a multitude of small
comb jellyfish, some displaying iridescent green or blue lights within their
body. Great stuff.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Then on to Eric
Cove, a Hudson Bay trading post from 1909 to 1949, mainly trading in Arctic fox
(the traders decimated by an influenza epidemic in 1928). This was our base for
a longer hike, about 10km with 400m of ascent, initially following a wide
river, with a couple of caribou seen on the far side, before heading straight
uphill to open out our views. From the top, the vastness of the landscape of
northern Quebec was revealed to us. As usual our guide, this time Christine,
scouted carefully ahead in places for polar bear, who do travel significant
distances inland during the summer months. A good yomp.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD7j8lW0-G4H57k3CAEjp4-50ff2j5AhT7vRpYXVGx4_c05eyYcq7voRG1B36E3RKAd8XkcqRQVswSY8zqStmqzaVStmOLB2gXKW8BDQ2RfnqSlUrOgpOvHmRZOpOrNNgiofcHNA/s1600/P1100390.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD7j8lW0-G4H57k3CAEjp4-50ff2j5AhT7vRpYXVGx4_c05eyYcq7voRG1B36E3RKAd8XkcqRQVswSY8zqStmqzaVStmOLB2gXKW8BDQ2RfnqSlUrOgpOvHmRZOpOrNNgiofcHNA/s1600/P1100390.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The 'chargers' above Eric Cove, northern Quebec</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKn6gB3U8K6MV0G_-HVrh1FhKQiX8aIlgIuAYW5mPiXFFhHK6nI-K0TOR1VJvAUD5FJieg0hE5gD0WCKw12UHqqiG0bO7DEV253kGgZBQTCb-19v6nyf8w20LCrVB7aQCOEzBOKg/s1600/P1100394.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKn6gB3U8K6MV0G_-HVrh1FhKQiX8aIlgIuAYW5mPiXFFhHK6nI-K0TOR1VJvAUD5FJieg0hE5gD0WCKw12UHqqiG0bO7DEV253kGgZBQTCb-19v6nyf8w20LCrVB7aQCOEzBOKg/s1600/P1100394.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Wolstanholme
Island was our last port of call for the day. The cliffs, viewed from Zodiacs,
are the hatching ground for a large colony of guillemots, home for 500,000
breeding pairs, and we were to see the spectacular fledgling behaviour, where
three weeks after hatchig, the young bird dives from its narrow perch high on
the cliff into the sea, accompanied by its father, who then take to the sea for
a few weeks before the young one is ready to take to the air. An impressive
sight, the sky around us absolutely chock full of birds going for their last feed
of the day before returning to roost.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But the day had
one more surprise for us. It had been bright and sunny all day, and just after
midnight we were awoken by our expedition leader to advise that the Northern
Lights (Aurora Borealis) were displaying, so many of us donned warm clothes and
rushed to the observation deck to enjoy this wondrous spectacle. Great swathes
of light, some forming curtain like shapes directly over our heads, another
forming a spiralling trail behind the ship, and all this time the western
horizon defined by the thin red line of the last vestiges of the day.
Awesome.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></span></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPweK3V0i_TJWQd0B35m_L4nMwRVLcNdL41fjLGzvaITSUlbVoFtK5c7H6uoSkZGHbKIVvDfe94Ch4uoT18FRQBbSTLTr4bXUDVGXhsuAWokePUTwzO45yX3tRRc7LCAQh9wXNLQ/s1600/P1100411.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPweK3V0i_TJWQd0B35m_L4nMwRVLcNdL41fjLGzvaITSUlbVoFtK5c7H6uoSkZGHbKIVvDfe94Ch4uoT18FRQBbSTLTr4bXUDVGXhsuAWokePUTwzO45yX3tRRc7LCAQh9wXNLQ/s1600/P1100411.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD-SZus_bv4D3bf1gw8rJb7AFCR9Bl7wdKOM8quVi99-rjgctcPyjlv8VAWr6Q0HvItjchuguoUDxIOW2fSZlna3LBahU-hXOU-TTjaHw7VcuYJvxXjKPgR5O-Fh1EFIRRZfkKew/s1600/P1100415.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD-SZus_bv4D3bf1gw8rJb7AFCR9Bl7wdKOM8quVi99-rjgctcPyjlv8VAWr6Q0HvItjchuguoUDxIOW2fSZlna3LBahU-hXOU-TTjaHw7VcuYJvxXjKPgR5O-Fh1EFIRRZfkKew/s1600/P1100415.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWaUoR4C4hv0lY8Lt9E7DIFiyJxWOADrO51-2jdM3nUCSJtYxQsVkzGLI8yLVitA0rCPyXIh-EkE8Hy_KMPm2ZxKLCuKkuviw0cEJqswgeEEjeThtOpxI-GqYudn9z_k1dXqK4CQ/s1600/P1100424.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWaUoR4C4hv0lY8Lt9E7DIFiyJxWOADrO51-2jdM3nUCSJtYxQsVkzGLI8yLVitA0rCPyXIh-EkE8Hy_KMPm2ZxKLCuKkuviw0cEJqswgeEEjeThtOpxI-GqYudn9z_k1dXqK4CQ/s1600/P1100424.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisUqFJjJM7D_PKeutV9ZJNo64ImDoQRtjTzZmJdm2qhmyXq-CVdAqp-Zc0wFYPx5HN98JwJbcvUsoUoP-cpzsycrvTaliU-MyUUW_9VrKFfvVy9MQwFNtaZQLlF3KH25tSbvQgbQ/s1600/P1100429.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisUqFJjJM7D_PKeutV9ZJNo64ImDoQRtjTzZmJdm2qhmyXq-CVdAqp-Zc0wFYPx5HN98JwJbcvUsoUoP-cpzsycrvTaliU-MyUUW_9VrKFfvVy9MQwFNtaZQLlF3KH25tSbvQgbQ/s1600/P1100429.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivH4zyxktaPKboXBOEq8XJYBkN6L0YL1T0TGPsCKWM9VEMWQa395Ko_BzMsYgQuDlPwSe08U5hmgSi5b7FP2ZHJlmG2WFmW8bR4OBB05WTfl8SkalYdOBZ67AZTzP2OkrhRUr87A/s1600/P1100436.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivH4zyxktaPKboXBOEq8XJYBkN6L0YL1T0TGPsCKWM9VEMWQa395Ko_BzMsYgQuDlPwSe08U5hmgSi5b7FP2ZHJlmG2WFmW8bR4OBB05WTfl8SkalYdOBZ67AZTzP2OkrhRUr87A/s1600/P1100436.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjav0DgxlfJuAsN91lLIiUcI0_xVlmzf9283j52JxwUVRvs-DZUVa9k7Aj7JM1AmCgozhaORauuxVhWjvtxVRVNQfjCJKGg839_DFLfLjwi1sE4d5gLsE9N364vlLQYR7VqjhAxsA/s1600/P1100445.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjav0DgxlfJuAsN91lLIiUcI0_xVlmzf9283j52JxwUVRvs-DZUVa9k7Aj7JM1AmCgozhaORauuxVhWjvtxVRVNQfjCJKGg839_DFLfLjwi1sE4d5gLsE9N364vlLQYR7VqjhAxsA/s1600/P1100445.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNwl4HmZAoTx7hnB7TQioRO-prvmADCVRvlRAxwfBSMVNwIfPL-Qgesfaoyt0ZUZE5rCjlgLYIYzYJ6fJdycuRE56qi7GAI8sGwlLYn2u3SGi7I6CMV3h7w_6KttMhCEIWRKx8RQ/s1600/P1100448.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNwl4HmZAoTx7hnB7TQioRO-prvmADCVRvlRAxwfBSMVNwIfPL-Qgesfaoyt0ZUZE5rCjlgLYIYzYJ6fJdycuRE56qi7GAI8sGwlLYn2u3SGi7I6CMV3h7w_6KttMhCEIWRKx8RQ/s1600/P1100448.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUh5E9H-oi745iAzIyFdRJn9JhO6Y37PU6sMoFqz0ZkXTT4OaABj1eGif4vu3XBXJQnNpQB41y7r1Yy2quLZ1t8i7K8QonEADQqKjQq63VBe6yVaY83RTh__EMyYgZMRYk4GNXDQ/s1600/P1100456.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUh5E9H-oi745iAzIyFdRJn9JhO6Y37PU6sMoFqz0ZkXTT4OaABj1eGif4vu3XBXJQnNpQB41y7r1Yy2quLZ1t8i7K8QonEADQqKjQq63VBe6yVaY83RTh__EMyYgZMRYk4GNXDQ/s1600/P1100456.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">No apologies for so many images of the Northern Lights...nothing quite prepares you for your first ever sighting of them!</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Day 7</b><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A late start
given the hyperactivity of the previous day, beginning with a talk by Laurie on
the formation of the new province of Nunavut from the previously huge region of
the North Western Territories. And a good discourse of the evolution and role
of the stone pillars found throughout Inuit lands, the inuksuk. Lunch was
followed by a lecture on regional geology by Colin Souness. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Our destination
today is the small settlement of Kimmirut on the south east coast of Baffin
Island, the approach littered by icebergs. This is a small settlement of about
500 people, with no alcohol permitted to the residents, and originally a Hudson
Bay trading post called Cape Harbour. It's a bleak spot at the end of a narrow
channel expertly navigated by our Captain, not helped by the low cloud and
overwhelming greyness of the water and surrounding low hills and islands. But
lovely people here, even barbecuing Arctic Char and offering frozen raw fish
for us to enjoy. In fact it looked like the whole town turned out to greet us
as we landed on the town beach. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW-hNM0UxO0TJlHxTu7GIIjw8Ph4AKw4EE_gbo37KP_Ut-DRmo9YkeDwKps3DZFXGUMAQTrNwLsWo3f06UkYXwlJP-BgjitTzj2RBoq2a_t4Jq1TPX5UwhubG5q9-0bVSlmyWffA/s1600/_MG_9230.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW-hNM0UxO0TJlHxTu7GIIjw8Ph4AKw4EE_gbo37KP_Ut-DRmo9YkeDwKps3DZFXGUMAQTrNwLsWo3f06UkYXwlJP-BgjitTzj2RBoq2a_t4Jq1TPX5UwhubG5q9-0bVSlmyWffA/s1600/_MG_9230.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Kimmirut, Baffin Island</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmKmylrt_a0m773dxCFa_yCOF2cnMWW0tSA6pFY0oKn2csnsnbD8jhNx5axxf3S6H7C6VrdIZUIM0YA-HSS6rOAupGVap4jOqyDmtxyQbC1_tOe1yIKqLylWe25zxlDn6yupBc8A/s1600/davidriordan+(9).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmKmylrt_a0m773dxCFa_yCOF2cnMWW0tSA6pFY0oKn2csnsnbD8jhNx5axxf3S6H7C6VrdIZUIM0YA-HSS6rOAupGVap4jOqyDmtxyQbC1_tOe1yIKqLylWe25zxlDn6yupBc8A/s1600/davidriordan+(9).jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Football match with the locals in Kimmirut</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There's not a lot
going on here, limited tourism, and mainly hunting and fishing with a small
service economy to sustain the community. Two flights a week by Twin Otter to
Iqaluit, the capital of Baffin Island, thirty minutes away. But just like
everywhere else in the world, connected via satellite and internet widely
accessible for the locals. Personally, I'm not into big group visits to
'interface' with local communities, but I was impressed with the warmth of
welcome we received, and doubly impressed with the effort that the Quark
expedition team made to have fun with the locals, talking to elders, playing a
short football match with them and giving the youngsters in the village joy
rides in the Zodiacs around our ship anchored in the harbour.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A good evening in
the bar, our little team winning the quiz :-)<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7DJcbIfqjL4O4bOjn2lWWo3yy_BgBTRUHgTM2g8k1r5Fy-oxmfgUMmaaSUg9UGC3QoHewWTZkPl3Xy-9uhfSF9LoUksTfJz5pF4fwfuRgEhYP_xd8j1HifbjLJLB0l8RTFvQIrg/s1600/Churchill+to+Kimmirut.tiff" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7DJcbIfqjL4O4bOjn2lWWo3yy_BgBTRUHgTM2g8k1r5Fy-oxmfgUMmaaSUg9UGC3QoHewWTZkPl3Xy-9uhfSF9LoUksTfJz5pF4fwfuRgEhYP_xd8j1HifbjLJLB0l8RTFvQIrg/s1600/Churchill+to+Kimmirut.tiff" height="434" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Our journey across Arctic Canadian waters, now at Kimmirut</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Day 8</b><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Overnight we
re-crossed the Hudson Strait to reach the shores of northern Quebec once more.
We were early on to the Zodiacs to land on Diana Island (Inuit: Tuvaaluk) to
view Musk-ox, part of a 2,000 head herd which was started in Nunavut (Baffin
Island) back in 1973 with the import of just three animals from Ellesmere Island.
<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We had some good
sightings, stealthily approaching the animals like hunters, grabbing some good
shots before the herd spooked and moved on. A few blackfly today in sunny calm
conditions on this rather boggy island, and a sighting of a couple of loons on
one of the many small lakes found here. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgizqKwCWzmCbi8hPWgGaZM2j_x6EJrvjyQe7ReMobkb6dAHRlKjker10OgRVWHVewq1Ai_svuIErk5I5bDU6g-4zzOxl01qYIwGNdAJafwxIOaRKrCKcNbVi2i4uyMY4tDREl5mA/s1600/_MG_9278.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgizqKwCWzmCbi8hPWgGaZM2j_x6EJrvjyQe7ReMobkb6dAHRlKjker10OgRVWHVewq1Ai_svuIErk5I5bDU6g-4zzOxl01qYIwGNdAJafwxIOaRKrCKcNbVi2i4uyMY4tDREl5mA/s1600/_MG_9278.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizGhH4jAXu-Knzm_706xQQElbrlI3X0MvPYFlM8HAlO3Q7EyYvkMztj5wR2akhJJVBdR_Hwv9E4sR9shOJk1Q6D1SVZAtjTZyExgL6Ku2j0cM_Qkjcddt1QSz1ZsDS6U5Ty8I9qg/s1600/_MG_9281.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizGhH4jAXu-Knzm_706xQQElbrlI3X0MvPYFlM8HAlO3Q7EyYvkMztj5wR2akhJJVBdR_Hwv9E4sR9shOJk1Q6D1SVZAtjTZyExgL6Ku2j0cM_Qkjcddt1QSz1ZsDS6U5Ty8I9qg/s1600/_MG_9281.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFbsyAzhWipKdRpgEk3vooE01unefwRfgACG9rW_yb4PS2QmxnsKYXsN2aAFmulbjYdEDzOQS2bgU_TL10TzEE-EwiPoAX_q_Wmdr09FuzlzBVWHn86oHBsrXrnvjHQkI9f-s77g/s1600/_MG_9283.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFbsyAzhWipKdRpgEk3vooE01unefwRfgACG9rW_yb4PS2QmxnsKYXsN2aAFmulbjYdEDzOQS2bgU_TL10TzEE-EwiPoAX_q_Wmdr09FuzlzBVWHn86oHBsrXrnvjHQkI9f-s77g/s1600/_MG_9283.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Musk-ox on Diana Island</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There's a few more
icebergs appearing now, and our next transit eastwards across Ungava Bay to
Akpatok Island took us through some fog banks en route.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We travelled on
Zodiacs late afternoon to the massive limestone cliffs on the western periphery
of Akpatok Island. One Polar bear had been sighted from the ship so we headed
straight for him, only to observe a mother with two cubs further along the
beach below the cliffs. She was very skittish and defensive for her offspring,
so we left them alone, spent time watching the larger bear as he scoured along
the top of a scree slope directly below the cliffs, searching for dead young
guillemots who had not survived their hallmark dive from their nests in order
to reach the sea below.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Then another two
bears were spotted northwards, one of them just beyond the cub stage who
promptly dived into the sea from the beach, either to take a closer look at us but
more likely to escape our attention. The other joined the first bear at the top
of the scree, both very watchful of each other, but their close proximity
passed without incident, both more interested in us offshore.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgym4jhq-eh55kftrEDq95uFRkEfV5GCO3Yaf-NTYUsNpiUs5-kCF4No1joUHcaM41MCqtcSTrIMGa9hFVdchE9dfp4meuESs7-5zrC7l-XCbOBdeGJNYKTtiIbJ0w8rv3l_XTl_A/s1600/IMG_9365.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgym4jhq-eh55kftrEDq95uFRkEfV5GCO3Yaf-NTYUsNpiUs5-kCF4No1joUHcaM41MCqtcSTrIMGa9hFVdchE9dfp4meuESs7-5zrC7l-XCbOBdeGJNYKTtiIbJ0w8rv3l_XTl_A/s1600/IMG_9365.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbJB35oYgqeer4-g6Fd6m4E69EZ89vmuWAEtx7k-NejtvESchNGJssMST8SLwhvR1JjP-C89b7sUcZurXR0X7nWpOY3QunexyO_R9dkdomeGGuI1FX4fI1zOgFjqGPDgClfTytlg/s1600/IMG_9367.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbJB35oYgqeer4-g6Fd6m4E69EZ89vmuWAEtx7k-NejtvESchNGJssMST8SLwhvR1JjP-C89b7sUcZurXR0X7nWpOY3QunexyO_R9dkdomeGGuI1FX4fI1zOgFjqGPDgClfTytlg/s1600/IMG_9367.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHIkcFlJdHRBY5wmWcBlK_vtR5-uHlVZyzCwT1hzf4sfjDoL2-nybSkJ2v2piHzbWIPQEGX5BymUIfx4GyKH90cs-Jb8c-nr4BSEIIDCt1pZjj3hCySXyl9utSIYU2RLWQZc6mkA/s1600/IMG_9375.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHIkcFlJdHRBY5wmWcBlK_vtR5-uHlVZyzCwT1hzf4sfjDoL2-nybSkJ2v2piHzbWIPQEGX5BymUIfx4GyKH90cs-Jb8c-nr4BSEIIDCt1pZjj3hCySXyl9utSIYU2RLWQZc6mkA/s1600/IMG_9375.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxndjtcVFbCcHoVzsV8rj8AbQvNVsyTDbyOJuROKstIFsamGzHzrZDUAQ-UtN1eJ8gSux7TSjLoQEAqGShsYN0RhCkHAIx0Zl4R3Cz7kTt-1PW14moIpJ8is3k_0COe5KoAEI0rg/s1600/IMG_9376.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxndjtcVFbCcHoVzsV8rj8AbQvNVsyTDbyOJuROKstIFsamGzHzrZDUAQ-UtN1eJ8gSux7TSjLoQEAqGShsYN0RhCkHAIx0Zl4R3Cz7kTt-1PW14moIpJ8is3k_0COe5KoAEI0rg/s1600/IMG_9376.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZwsQ1uDAos2uD4FcuAbgh-IfTew8T-0S9ArVTwRDJ7RUcV8E1ImBBRaPfeoR-ptz8AjhdtjtiiPxT8uj_i7N5dVjOz6IKLmE2tzMAYfLjmtvdzJjV5XNEJb4AsxuM25Kvp8VwhQ/s1600/IMG_9379.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZwsQ1uDAos2uD4FcuAbgh-IfTew8T-0S9ArVTwRDJ7RUcV8E1ImBBRaPfeoR-ptz8AjhdtjtiiPxT8uj_i7N5dVjOz6IKLmE2tzMAYfLjmtvdzJjV5XNEJb4AsxuM25Kvp8VwhQ/s1600/IMG_9379.jpg" height="640" width="510" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOh_40eVRXkFIXSND7OpGtz5Wz4CvQLT3qW-rVObSardBgGK4h0g2ZLzSf2QL423-YXFbzd6sbbd1cO9fZVLI_kU1uuZNMRvjpzfUcXy1iK4ZHGLelZGbIhdQj4vc4TUV-SSQ2jw/s1600/IMG_9397.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOh_40eVRXkFIXSND7OpGtz5Wz4CvQLT3qW-rVObSardBgGK4h0g2ZLzSf2QL423-YXFbzd6sbbd1cO9fZVLI_kU1uuZNMRvjpzfUcXy1iK4ZHGLelZGbIhdQj4vc4TUV-SSQ2jw/s1600/IMG_9397.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Polar bears on Akpatok, waiting for fledgling Guillemots to hit the beach!</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It was a fine
afternoon on the Zodiac, a bright sun warming us and giving the cliffs an
amazing hue as it started to lower in the sky.</span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigEwE7vfa8fzM5qkyTBcYoxwUxGGhqXO0NNubLUqeCXf0VON5AElxCpRrc0CW_dCWA_X273aoXk41x1tj5v8E0BGbMjQ9Mrg2AexdJCo5u-u-w4CMBeQ-Xcu6OSjkboeERLXo9SQ/s1600/IMG_9222.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigEwE7vfa8fzM5qkyTBcYoxwUxGGhqXO0NNubLUqeCXf0VON5AElxCpRrc0CW_dCWA_X273aoXk41x1tj5v8E0BGbMjQ9Mrg2AexdJCo5u-u-w4CMBeQ-Xcu6OSjkboeERLXo9SQ/s1600/IMG_9222.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Black Billed Guillemots ... one million birds estimated in this colony alone</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body">
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik8_dU0DfFKAH1lXQLndQG5AnA9LqmZ53FGuRSCvAay3-xLrBrCGLw2keBLDUDyryxbyH3G8uH-2-ggHIzVjoZ1Ff2xhd9K5yzY-OqG_ra1-GPkj6KvWs8GonZLrTGDWwz8QURZg/s1600/IMG_9198.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik8_dU0DfFKAH1lXQLndQG5AnA9LqmZ53FGuRSCvAay3-xLrBrCGLw2keBLDUDyryxbyH3G8uH-2-ggHIzVjoZ1Ff2xhd9K5yzY-OqG_ra1-GPkj6KvWs8GonZLrTGDWwz8QURZg/s1600/IMG_9198.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Guillemot colony at Akpatok</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu_n2Ok8axgoPGc_Y2hmsKpRWB8PWM7L97cHrOx6bq_x6EByqB4zDKi33lIq4z9vO8IaRBgcB819tzMVjxFDzHX5tE44IyNR86CWW9uUvqsEoRx22j1B0VtkQSQfgswr7cqDL1rw/s1600/P1100524.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu_n2Ok8axgoPGc_Y2hmsKpRWB8PWM7L97cHrOx6bq_x6EByqB4zDKi33lIq4z9vO8IaRBgcB819tzMVjxFDzHX5tE44IyNR86CWW9uUvqsEoRx22j1B0VtkQSQfgswr7cqDL1rw/s1600/P1100524.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Off Akpatok Island in Ungava Bay</span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglIDZffpmTl4CEGuKpf3wVfFln5iccAm8ZIQoi4o_FgmiQxsBai2VLk6QD6ADZZ-9ojB_6dn_XmiY9FgH6ItVNfRu8DlR_H1EUznSNYx_NNb9TWYOeBOcC0SpuxDidPXWOyPEIdA/s1600/P1100551.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglIDZffpmTl4CEGuKpf3wVfFln5iccAm8ZIQoi4o_FgmiQxsBai2VLk6QD6ADZZ-9ojB_6dn_XmiY9FgH6ItVNfRu8DlR_H1EUznSNYx_NNb9TWYOeBOcC0SpuxDidPXWOyPEIdA/s1600/P1100551.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Day 9</b><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Overnight we
crossed the Hudson Strait once again, and moored off the Lower Savage Islands
just off southeastern Baffin Island. Our early Zodiac excursion took us through
one of two channels that divide these barren rocky islands, deep water troughs
which follow ancient fault lines. Our only wildlife sighting was a Harbour
seal, unimpressed by our approach and easy to photograph. The light on the calm
inner waters of the channel was fabulous, a silky black hue, providing
wonderful contrast to the low igneous rock bluffs on either side. But it got
very cold, and as we exited the channel to return to the ship, more bergy bits
were spotted, a sign of the colder waters we will be crossing over the next few
days.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif2mnvtN1rDxlKc-A1b6J-ulpXJeJMLuwfVnRoici7gT64dpbwP9cRstjV2siTf0bq2QAYRbGztRhN3BODODc_crUGSzPDIdRyhWx7esemI4NfmOt7y5D40Pu70OfL7bga_58smw/s1600/P1110016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif2mnvtN1rDxlKc-A1b6J-ulpXJeJMLuwfVnRoici7gT64dpbwP9cRstjV2siTf0bq2QAYRbGztRhN3BODODc_crUGSzPDIdRyhWx7esemI4NfmOt7y5D40Pu70OfL7bga_58smw/s1600/P1110016.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Small bergs off the Lower Savage Islands</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXYgXt12nT610tMh3fzjuQ82gQL-cmTscuuhnhFhMtHZtHXHEVteHmBb8BFa-aGNU8KXkqdFcTNLu2OrC85Z5KKBjEwGc5bec6bxdXpkb9qwAcy75QmWHjjixSmW4eCFC9LKDI7A/s1600/P1110040.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXYgXt12nT610tMh3fzjuQ82gQL-cmTscuuhnhFhMtHZtHXHEVteHmBb8BFa-aGNU8KXkqdFcTNLu2OrC85Z5KKBjEwGc5bec6bxdXpkb9qwAcy75QmWHjjixSmW4eCFC9LKDI7A/s1600/P1110040.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5tQiJ6KYbmljQPCnxrAqjxo6-_GO2sDaSfuUbIWOtyTSgdI8X3BSq2VwitmI0Wd7XB39t9UzQa-_LjcksGgYVpdxZLboNd2JDANYDMwwh6jepinHPTToICDRSP5E6Ig_0sHsUgA/s1600/P1110028.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5tQiJ6KYbmljQPCnxrAqjxo6-_GO2sDaSfuUbIWOtyTSgdI8X3BSq2VwitmI0Wd7XB39t9UzQa-_LjcksGgYVpdxZLboNd2JDANYDMwwh6jepinHPTToICDRSP5E6Ig_0sHsUgA/s1600/P1110028.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Exploring the channel through the Lower Savage islands</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0eC0SNkKqcDhw1wdrT4LnogDr-ZkEqaBt3rtDdTrWy-gSS1SH_Hiy9E5E_Kt6QJXcw5v0rcjr6BBnbV-11SAEMNIaH-6D1beaTsk7HVijXtSAC4pfHXJxMKFKhaucr4oNOxty-A/s1600/IMG_9428.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0eC0SNkKqcDhw1wdrT4LnogDr-ZkEqaBt3rtDdTrWy-gSS1SH_Hiy9E5E_Kt6QJXcw5v0rcjr6BBnbV-11SAEMNIaH-6D1beaTsk7HVijXtSAC4pfHXJxMKFKhaucr4oNOxty-A/s1600/IMG_9428.jpg" height="506" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Harbour Seal, Lower Savage Islands</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Later we steamed
north to find the diminutive Monumental Island off the southeast coast of
Baffin Island (named as a monument to the Arctic explorer, Franklin). In
transit an excellent lecture on glaciers by Colin Souness but otherwise steady
progress in banks of fog, caused by warm air colliding with the very cold sea.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A Zodiac
operation to look for walrus on Monumental Island proved fruitless, but once
again showcased the skills of our Captain and excellent expedition team, who
navigated in choppy water with very low visibility to this tiny, rocky island
in the middle of nowhere, the latter using radar reflectors to get us back to
the ship, which appeared like a ghost ship in the spectral evening sun
attempting to cut through the fog. One polar bear was spotted by one of our Zodiac
groups.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The evening was
spent partying to celebrate our departure from the Canadian Arctic and the
start of our passage across the Davis Strait to reach the west coast of
Greenland, a journey of one day and two nights. Bizarrely the theme of the
party was Hawaiian!<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmpDDE1XTsFpznQF5X7wIJqrZsQDwwnm50IK3vx46L1u6AOUc8NYTtBdKZgOhKyM4XuUWeZ8iq6AhwFY8OWj9jZwWbTpcnedCEP6u17HOcocEOGBgZ6bWx5n9F28dySU4HjgW2NA/s1600/IMG_4471.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmpDDE1XTsFpznQF5X7wIJqrZsQDwwnm50IK3vx46L1u6AOUc8NYTtBdKZgOhKyM4XuUWeZ8iq6AhwFY8OWj9jZwWbTpcnedCEP6u17HOcocEOGBgZ6bWx5n9F28dySU4HjgW2NA/s1600/IMG_4471.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Party time...</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmCp8MMCW7SuQmgJdkdDe2a7kP9QL1RUK1kIPEJBZWbfGDwhX01IHNP055nBsdhK3UqmyxuKXrG2yVKBr7Dn1qKpCfd39gzzb5ksScX0o7xtgW-AL3P4Ls1PUbsnl6Te4UgyxBcQ/s1600/P1130900.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmCp8MMCW7SuQmgJdkdDe2a7kP9QL1RUK1kIPEJBZWbfGDwhX01IHNP055nBsdhK3UqmyxuKXrG2yVKBr7Dn1qKpCfd39gzzb5ksScX0o7xtgW-AL3P4Ls1PUbsnl6Te4UgyxBcQ/s1600/P1130900.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Day 10</b></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo1otplEA4KG5vtzUTV_PAJkd04zzUO5TOJsPjET4X85Mk1cFCoiqfN00KeScn24i4XrwvOK7QFhLDcuLX7itDJVs2bSvwbbS1Gl3OZMjAVHUe89BcDILdFNN_n64f6hABeMaUYg/s1600/P1110053.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo1otplEA4KG5vtzUTV_PAJkd04zzUO5TOJsPjET4X85Mk1cFCoiqfN00KeScn24i4XrwvOK7QFhLDcuLX7itDJVs2bSvwbbS1Gl3OZMjAVHUe89BcDILdFNN_n64f6hABeMaUYg/s1600/P1110053.jpg" height="464" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Neptune ceremony as we cross the Arctic Circle</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A quiet day on
the ship crossing the (thankfully) calm waters of the Davis Strait, crossing
the Arctic Circle 66 degrees N at about 1630 local time, with a ceremony led by
a colourful Neptune character and champagne and ice cream for all. Tomorrow,
Greenland!<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Day 11</b><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Our navigation of
the Davis Strait proved to be about half a day faster than expected due to very
calm conditions, although it was a largely foggy crossing, a lecture on sea ice
and glaciers keeping us occupied for part of the passage. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Our arrival in
the famous Disko Bay on Western Greenland was presaged by the sighting of many
icebergs, bergy bits and growlers (bergs of completely clear ice, containing no
air, and sitting lower in the water than the others). These are the remnants of
the many glaciers pouring off the massive Greenland Ice Cap, the second largest
in the world after Antarctica. These bergs come in all shapes and sizes, and are
a fantastic testament to the wonders of this icy wilderness.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9OLH4WN5pa0VAHw0TSVITGj-cOj7etLKkGhyjbxvL6DyrlycaHD2gdqFuqgNoDqxikkWQ3My3WUNGhJEzzrhlQphJ4KbMgwoGiFfkot6nOs2Gt-eoGOYaAVMlrqesQjUNIF8nJA/s1600/P1110095.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9OLH4WN5pa0VAHw0TSVITGj-cOj7etLKkGhyjbxvL6DyrlycaHD2gdqFuqgNoDqxikkWQ3My3WUNGhJEzzrhlQphJ4KbMgwoGiFfkot6nOs2Gt-eoGOYaAVMlrqesQjUNIF8nJA/s1600/P1110095.jpg" height="354" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLCQzUsBv2CkLFOIzy-gP4FgFz5wdLpGZ7BzgLYZFk3veNSgTFOzVT6nRFlHaLKhVm7jIq9HENgbM7BEZpfAYkZrLm1lbCY6xCzVfPeeKpdhJxhiqXhyphenhyphen7zJffiPDVpiNLl0VH7IQ/s1600/P1110112.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLCQzUsBv2CkLFOIzy-gP4FgFz5wdLpGZ7BzgLYZFk3veNSgTFOzVT6nRFlHaLKhVm7jIq9HENgbM7BEZpfAYkZrLm1lbCY6xCzVfPeeKpdhJxhiqXhyphenhyphen7zJffiPDVpiNLl0VH7IQ/s1600/P1110112.jpg" height="174" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigtYXBLENd6-w4QE-WsZTrzBVvSdLlb8MYX94uvNtIS-hJnG0oCZK3YYviuFlP4pMgvZuM30b193WmBosh3zO1PwrjZgTm0ZTbXIo_xSt4bLmAf6K9K5nLkNjh9kaLj4648HPq3A/s1600/P1110116.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigtYXBLENd6-w4QE-WsZTrzBVvSdLlb8MYX94uvNtIS-hJnG0oCZK3YYviuFlP4pMgvZuM30b193WmBosh3zO1PwrjZgTm0ZTbXIo_xSt4bLmAf6K9K5nLkNjh9kaLj4648HPq3A/s1600/P1110116.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-mPAW92hhCWKzfzbQJE3qD4bkK3Qvd2OZ_3_vO4-rZo9Xe_Prt1RmWCMU-oqB304jSBHJJSvvBeiY5KRBPDHvL2fFn6b1q_m05AqcG_1iTvAPslJFFMOqwSoHc2v2uxgTO0Sk3Q/s1600/P1110121.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-mPAW92hhCWKzfzbQJE3qD4bkK3Qvd2OZ_3_vO4-rZo9Xe_Prt1RmWCMU-oqB304jSBHJJSvvBeiY5KRBPDHvL2fFn6b1q_m05AqcG_1iTvAPslJFFMOqwSoHc2v2uxgTO0Sk3Q/s1600/P1110121.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicWvMk5zL68UAcxMPcGJwESqvSXvujxYx_kvjKdOWO80qHVrF68rGm4dswSBiNh00-JCxDdX1vQk-uDerQHFc2VICrkSEprJ-lpN4xwZ53gPlldYnnZZ_1erepNB4g_7rN8bUwig/s1600/P1110129.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicWvMk5zL68UAcxMPcGJwESqvSXvujxYx_kvjKdOWO80qHVrF68rGm4dswSBiNh00-JCxDdX1vQk-uDerQHFc2VICrkSEprJ-lpN4xwZ53gPlldYnnZZ_1erepNB4g_7rN8bUwig/s1600/P1110129.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Icebergs galore in Disko Bay</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Aided by radar to
avoid the bergs, the ship came into Disko Bay at about 4-5 knots, and calmly
took us into a narrower channel in the north-eastern reaches to start our
various excursions. Low lying fog on the landing area persuaded some of us to
take a Zodiac cruise to see some of the bergs close up, an awesome spectacle.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After dinner,
preceded by a charity auction in support of polar bear research, we observed
the nearby glacier named Eqip Sermia. With a face spanning 5km and flowing at
an astonishing 4km per year, this presented us with a unique experience, the
very frequent noises of the glacier advancing, and 'calving' into the icy waters
of the bay in which we were now anchored. The noise it made was just
incredible, regular and very loud sound akin to artillery fire or claps of
thunder - unique due to very fast flow rates of Greenland's glaciers. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm8UgF2zE4mp0IYD9gwLq7FRpC8QPxQlJjPMkmxkiVGiygj8hVHk5vOHTUskC_jZi0FCVc1uWgPizfp9YG0ktxHnEtjttRabDZTWHsj7xRZsRZylAu42slww8D7sg8PbR1JleyRA/s1600/IMG_9473.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm8UgF2zE4mp0IYD9gwLq7FRpC8QPxQlJjPMkmxkiVGiygj8hVHk5vOHTUskC_jZi0FCVc1uWgPizfp9YG0ktxHnEtjttRabDZTWHsj7xRZsRZylAu42slww8D7sg8PbR1JleyRA/s1600/IMG_9473.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAtC1GrI2H87EodfE6sRwj7HNXJgIrH4X3OVgBM1LP2gOdk26XifOBxPoW7NhNm6ZuS_FBOf3Ciczg9daxDVBtoZkpDwbko7_x7bnW2KW1jx-nOkHAn7guHrtpUv5XrAohaF-ROA/s1600/IMG_9492.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAtC1GrI2H87EodfE6sRwj7HNXJgIrH4X3OVgBM1LP2gOdk26XifOBxPoW7NhNm6ZuS_FBOf3Ciczg9daxDVBtoZkpDwbko7_x7bnW2KW1jx-nOkHAn7guHrtpUv5XrAohaF-ROA/s1600/IMG_9492.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Massive icebergs, Eqip Sermia, western Greenland</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Day 12</b><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Early morning fog
closed out views of Eqip Sermia, and it's slightly less active during the
morning as the cold of the night slows the flow. It's our objective today,
walking up the lateral moraine aside this epic tumble of ice, deeply crevassed
as it has made its way to the coast. Just awesome.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">An awkward
landing on to low lying cliffs, followed by a marshy walk across a rich and
colourful carpet of tundra vegetation and a few challenging river crossings
made our first landing on Greenland a memorable occasion. The walk of about 5km
there and back brought us up a short ascent on to the moraine directly next to
the magnificent glacier, the face about 200m high and frequently and noisily
calving ice into the bay below. The noise, akin to clap of thunder, was a
fabulous rendition of nature in the raw. Real goose bump stuff.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ5prZSoSU1H0Iihfj4WfJ6OW96St6FmVhzKjJgWzDPsavVyM23S0wmNPEfiByB7dx9hAnBEau3T2c5uLtPzkdAPX9SWexCHW82Qz54WBu77IOPYzuv_in68zyKdT7XxdNnyn1CA/s1600/P1110190.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ5prZSoSU1H0Iihfj4WfJ6OW96St6FmVhzKjJgWzDPsavVyM23S0wmNPEfiByB7dx9hAnBEau3T2c5uLtPzkdAPX9SWexCHW82Qz54WBu77IOPYzuv_in68zyKdT7XxdNnyn1CA/s1600/P1110190.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Autumnal tundra vegetation</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjma1elbWFpNfrKOlHMZKMiall3dceH5vxuM53LkG-wzkm62kHJWlSI0YLdfJzf4ByUQ5f2nAygXTZxo3Tz5vi3fvY3VYS7oBvJzslRt10f8g5Tad3qGYgqN0Vm8axS0CwJJKsD3A/s1600/P1110198.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjma1elbWFpNfrKOlHMZKMiall3dceH5vxuM53LkG-wzkm62kHJWlSI0YLdfJzf4ByUQ5f2nAygXTZxo3Tz5vi3fvY3VYS7oBvJzslRt10f8g5Tad3qGYgqN0Vm8axS0CwJJKsD3A/s1600/P1110198.jpg" height="454" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Fun river crossings!</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7zq7_EDF52N5tFM0yLNSlw0kleVNIPM83mR0rfQ2MHp40EryO8V6rGYeluohI23AKMjI7GWfj7gK5w9IO3u9lY-tcGis5cGybyts6JPjM6NRRhpkm-peUYlMUC3GZb-PHtSU2CQ/s1600/P1110203.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7zq7_EDF52N5tFM0yLNSlw0kleVNIPM83mR0rfQ2MHp40EryO8V6rGYeluohI23AKMjI7GWfj7gK5w9IO3u9lY-tcGis5cGybyts6JPjM6NRRhpkm-peUYlMUC3GZb-PHtSU2CQ/s1600/P1110203.jpg" height="532" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGd2CJf862KFStujmLyTHsJphwldzrh3Va0rC6kbRVIcOwF7DbqquiSM2K_gSeHFG_SNOHWw8z8KC92zV6j0kEcr8Y4NrQhtJQ8QMFu5lA5ETN7wed4OrZGpg6tVKjPcDdBEDs-g/s1600/P1110212.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGd2CJf862KFStujmLyTHsJphwldzrh3Va0rC6kbRVIcOwF7DbqquiSM2K_gSeHFG_SNOHWw8z8KC92zV6j0kEcr8Y4NrQhtJQ8QMFu5lA5ETN7wed4OrZGpg6tVKjPcDdBEDs-g/s1600/P1110212.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A 'calving' event from the face of the Eqip Sermia glacier<span style="text-align: left;"> </span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKdQQNz5Bi0sdnP_97KvbNtTf3O6f0g3I6oZ8C1WI8iLgq_6l1X_2ZsIwhzzhe9r2_8kfiMnUpKwYmxdno0fdT3RWAd9lkb7N0_DluAm4SF66QkI3yJSw2GsuhLZL1bKup39gfFw/s1600/P1110223.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKdQQNz5Bi0sdnP_97KvbNtTf3O6f0g3I6oZ8C1WI8iLgq_6l1X_2ZsIwhzzhe9r2_8kfiMnUpKwYmxdno0fdT3RWAd9lkb7N0_DluAm4SF66QkI3yJSw2GsuhLZL1bKup39gfFw/s1600/P1110223.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjle7rg2AXImECkyB4wK_TWZ-HlxcBsBJOyD06Ymcxh-kQDm4Fv5-enEb8UoY78jU2NImidGvVTMcB9Uh-M8TUjRpMAHb4Myj92kZ3Mq5yujbsoyxCLx_rt56bcRIeXAkx7KyUZmA/s1600/P1110228.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjle7rg2AXImECkyB4wK_TWZ-HlxcBsBJOyD06Ymcxh-kQDm4Fv5-enEb8UoY78jU2NImidGvVTMcB9Uh-M8TUjRpMAHb4Myj92kZ3Mq5yujbsoyxCLx_rt56bcRIeXAkx7KyUZmA/s1600/P1110228.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Careful loading of the Zodiacs in a tsunami risk area</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Every time the
glacier releases ice into the bay a mini tsunami is generated, and one hit our
landing area whilst we were away walking, increasing the local high water mark
by about 8m. Accordingly, the expedition team do not land Zodiacs on to beaches
here, and use easy angled sloping cliffs to land against so that we could avoid
the tsunami effect if it occurred whilst attempting to re-board the Zodiacs on
our return. Professional, skilled stuff by the Quark team.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH-M5SFmijlFjrEhhV1cLQdMnINYGDDXx8_NpMxicKlv5QRmR9SZ8Z-icX1w7ndOC6__mQkFHoWEXHfmd9xPonxpH8-1-gTJH_a00peJDQDwEnHP1xN-Bx2mvdjIFHx03eFBM-7Q/s1600/West+Greenland+detail.tiff" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH-M5SFmijlFjrEhhV1cLQdMnINYGDDXx8_NpMxicKlv5QRmR9SZ8Z-icX1w7ndOC6__mQkFHoWEXHfmd9xPonxpH8-1-gTJH_a00peJDQDwEnHP1xN-Bx2mvdjIFHx03eFBM-7Q/s1600/West+Greenland+detail.tiff" height="478" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Disko Bay and Ilulissat, West Greenland</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Back to the ship,
Arctic dips for some from the rear Zodiac deck, and a BBQ on one of the rear
decks, the ship now repositioned to Ilulissat, Greenland's third largest town
and home for some 4,000 souls. The name of the town means 'iceberg' in Greenlandic,
and it sits next to one of the fastest moving glaciers in the world, the
Ilulisat Kangerlua or Jacobshavn Icefjord, itself 40km long and generating 20m
tonnes of ice per day. Giant icebergs, stranded on a shelf at the end of the
fjord, dominate the seascape here, huge walls, canyons, and remarkable shapes. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyN6cb_0z-cAtv6Jcm69gl2sYCnCBmG7rFqHH1JgcF2AmnYl-9nPFm0Iisqtf98thnAWpKldmn-RdAZ938YhwvyFEyoY3aGtZXhY-XbPcXPP9ycKgsZqkusnrWqBvYGggM4Tysog/s1600/acaciajohnson79.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyN6cb_0z-cAtv6Jcm69gl2sYCnCBmG7rFqHH1JgcF2AmnYl-9nPFm0Iisqtf98thnAWpKldmn-RdAZ938YhwvyFEyoY3aGtZXhY-XbPcXPP9ycKgsZqkusnrWqBvYGggM4Tysog/s1600/acaciajohnson79.jpg" height="640" width="512" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Fortified by vodka, the inevitable Arctic dip</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj97imqamuFcznXBwlYFto8ae2q-gXK9uHMYEZqHktZt1ZAMtE63Bn7FQnKQFm_FDET3bMVAn3P4uh5wqb6sybMKMOm6qiJm6gkfOnE9M7DylWV_twnIdN0QeLKB-BynKD-gHfhDQ/s1600/_MG_9456.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj97imqamuFcznXBwlYFto8ae2q-gXK9uHMYEZqHktZt1ZAMtE63Bn7FQnKQFm_FDET3bMVAn3P4uh5wqb6sybMKMOm6qiJm6gkfOnE9M7DylWV_twnIdN0QeLKB-BynKD-gHfhDQ/s1600/_MG_9456.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Whilst enjoying a
drink in the bar, a nearby berg calved twice right in front of the ship,
hundreds of tonnes of ice spilling into the sea and the whole iceberg titling
as the weight balance shifted. And then, a final bonus just before we turned in
for the night - a humpback whale nonchalantly swan by on our port side. We
could clearly hear the blow hole and were rewarded with a tail fluke before
this magnificent animal disappeared into the deep once again.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZg2bqFkSBmON8scQtv_rYf415cVExDzpsQ03OBVf0gc_EMX7t0dcatNCvt3-djVEiLtlpbLGmpBYP_MOe1pBrR6AS3Brn7qfaueg4wn_vlSdYLumX-s_D9rjEgYOyImixBH2vAQ/s1600/P1110233.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZg2bqFkSBmON8scQtv_rYf415cVExDzpsQ03OBVf0gc_EMX7t0dcatNCvt3-djVEiLtlpbLGmpBYP_MOe1pBrR6AS3Brn7qfaueg4wn_vlSdYLumX-s_D9rjEgYOyImixBH2vAQ/s1600/P1110233.jpg" height="378" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlPL3oGjOCruxp5PT4k2dPPoyYqNaVHXlhHCqrIQ1KPoI0LXbc1xop0TPFemn-byGiP5SHXxZGoPVvqCxgsRKTJqOca2pY_qQjw66xKIiP13oSIOxttWsxJGDzlyXwPK929YOirA/s1600/P1110237.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlPL3oGjOCruxp5PT4k2dPPoyYqNaVHXlhHCqrIQ1KPoI0LXbc1xop0TPFemn-byGiP5SHXxZGoPVvqCxgsRKTJqOca2pY_qQjw66xKIiP13oSIOxttWsxJGDzlyXwPK929YOirA/s1600/P1110237.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIK-jS-n0gzS1yRvcZMVE65G4r3lZWKbAwIRRkyMpU3X0ETecsYdiZ3fXbFBkWX7r0-EViUiSrymVGNzO18um__0zXrBhkMg_rtUK-k7XjV5siCniPYK-S5qo1xtwPZ_JRJ-N80g/s1600/P1110248.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIK-jS-n0gzS1yRvcZMVE65G4r3lZWKbAwIRRkyMpU3X0ETecsYdiZ3fXbFBkWX7r0-EViUiSrymVGNzO18um__0zXrBhkMg_rtUK-k7XjV5siCniPYK-S5qo1xtwPZ_JRJ-N80g/s1600/P1110248.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The cream specks show the icebergs in the channel ahead</span><span style="text-align: left;"> !</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicj4BWc5ASeJe6i_XbwsYkSsjtIOETI_gv_6hACSoZ3meJeStX4dS5u5KLUkuplMPTVz3TfYpVotRPd0pknQ1PuhQ-UQ_SUypiuqOxR0G1wQRGltvM4U-Y5r53VUdk7pKTwkEu0w/s1600/P1110252.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicj4BWc5ASeJe6i_XbwsYkSsjtIOETI_gv_6hACSoZ3meJeStX4dS5u5KLUkuplMPTVz3TfYpVotRPd0pknQ1PuhQ-UQ_SUypiuqOxR0G1wQRGltvM4U-Y5r53VUdk7pKTwkEu0w/s1600/P1110252.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Careful navigation required on the approach to Ilulissat</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Day 13</b><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Our penultimate
adventure day. Moored just off Ilulissat, the ship initially with a mechanical
issue that meant Zodiac transfers in the morning to reach the port. It's a
gloomy day, low cloud and fine but drenching drizzle. Many of us have
helicopter rides booked to overfly the glacier, but all that seems rather uncertain
right now. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And then things
came together. Mechanicals sorted out. Our ship docks in a very tight harbour
with much fine manoeuvring by the Captain and his crew. A good walk through the
town, the brightly coloured houses providing some respite from the gloom and
waves of drizzle that continue to ebb and flow. And then out of town, through
the kennel areas for vast numbers of husky dogs, the adults chained up for the
three or four months of the summer, the pups wandering around, seeking
attention from anybody prepared to pet them, on to a long wooden board walk
which took us into the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Ilulissat Icefjord. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3RGjTgcJ3voqXLnAfa3zfDLCjyTdabnnlKajniabRTZays72mXdC5lvZIpc20YUPgmSGrO5Y4E7iyRLXvxMiFMIkJ9ITArWRXbtsspYY9n7Doj49xe6pSk6bWmrWiDbEs137WKw/s1600/P1110415.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3RGjTgcJ3voqXLnAfa3zfDLCjyTdabnnlKajniabRTZays72mXdC5lvZIpc20YUPgmSGrO5Y4E7iyRLXvxMiFMIkJ9ITArWRXbtsspYY9n7Doj49xe6pSk6bWmrWiDbEs137WKw/s1600/P1110415.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ilulissat</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_O65wB5xHTpwSxnn7V4BiN5BzaCCG9cNfIdcL33BMY8Q_PbaKCorXr2KL7sEv40u9fUMGTr7V0K1RfcNQjfGbeddY_-Ox9Z-keeq3_LiUmkc7jwPvH7H-xES4w-GT8UMTRx-afA/s1600/P1110300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_O65wB5xHTpwSxnn7V4BiN5BzaCCG9cNfIdcL33BMY8Q_PbaKCorXr2KL7sEv40u9fUMGTr7V0K1RfcNQjfGbeddY_-Ox9Z-keeq3_LiUmkc7jwPvH7H-xES4w-GT8UMTRx-afA/s1600/P1110300.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ilulissat</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPIUXh0Okp3b5a8dVN_7cPsMXkr-UT5ddztsUmT5vrImk-tbztxYT5va8X0eN9PQXi6Q66-nJHHYTiBn0M0vVvRDi79sWYV22l-gp33Dez8HWdbW2mrnDuY2qLe06m9dnvvF0YWw/s1600/P1110401.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPIUXh0Okp3b5a8dVN_7cPsMXkr-UT5ddztsUmT5vrImk-tbztxYT5va8X0eN9PQXi6Q66-nJHHYTiBn0M0vVvRDi79sWYV22l-gp33Dez8HWdbW2mrnDuY2qLe06m9dnvvF0YWw/s1600/P1110401.jpg" height="640" width="526" /></a></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikGb_rATFT_HIIAH2ev-paP5Apip_6XlkLnAQ_y8-J0cZbGcjY1mtrOyBm9dMREpczlRMJtigbwmCyeqTQuk7JTWLQndTiLYSKcRx9xIh764_DqWMl5JIIEgZuXt5DQi1y4Y6rhA/s1600/P1110315.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikGb_rATFT_HIIAH2ev-paP5Apip_6XlkLnAQ_y8-J0cZbGcjY1mtrOyBm9dMREpczlRMJtigbwmCyeqTQuk7JTWLQndTiLYSKcRx9xIh764_DqWMl5JIIEgZuXt5DQi1y4Y6rhA/s1600/P1110315.jpg" height="640" width="618" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Husky puppies</span><span style="text-align: left;"> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background-color: transparent; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"></table>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZQlsPliuWaDv6nJKfsDsvjtDVGJPUkGmou20_QMFPiuJ8sv6Lxavpkwgk37y9KvqN4FSrDaPuOAxNagOT9Hz5LMxEpf2PJitlF6bAJmzXCSRC4PqBNEeLsWEWOsQbqYZiXbfF5A/s1600/P1110331.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZQlsPliuWaDv6nJKfsDsvjtDVGJPUkGmou20_QMFPiuJ8sv6Lxavpkwgk37y9KvqN4FSrDaPuOAxNagOT9Hz5LMxEpf2PJitlF6bAJmzXCSRC4PqBNEeLsWEWOsQbqYZiXbfF5A/s1600/P1110331.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 19px; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Ilulissat Icefjord</span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMQ6NRVX2rZslLcGBxOgdBxw9vUOikOziALoMDWTS0UVaCOsQn0MkPSc79z0pXZfSiR_eQTUjX9gwCNCrb2GV4Rs7VvK-FCsX4_Fv3YsUWB6A3SFfgnajUPy-pw5hDnmh49Lx_lg/s1600/P1110335.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMQ6NRVX2rZslLcGBxOgdBxw9vUOikOziALoMDWTS0UVaCOsQn0MkPSc79z0pXZfSiR_eQTUjX9gwCNCrb2GV4Rs7VvK-FCsX4_Fv3YsUWB6A3SFfgnajUPy-pw5hDnmh49Lx_lg/s1600/P1110335.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And spectacular
it is, the approach taking you through vast swathes of autumnal colours on the
tundra vegetation and banks of rich green moss amidst the bog and many small
lakes. Then, very shortly afterwards you are rewarded with the spectacle of the
many icebergs caught up on the shelf at the head of the fjord waiting to be
released by the spring tides of next year, but currently blocking a 70km long
fjord and with billions of tonnes of ice waiting to move again. Massively
impressive, and visited again in the afternoon to exploit the brighter light.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIHGFowaegYNiLUYF5TIsZhmdSWae5s9iUxFirZd-yMxL9MVO4N3xOiuJG7EZ2zBrZs59q4EhUKJFF8thsf42kLYKyGK8ERJ8f9njN-vjtBZHmVNAl_pISC5DnTSWHUVAD4FpmjA/s1600/_MG_9512.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIHGFowaegYNiLUYF5TIsZhmdSWae5s9iUxFirZd-yMxL9MVO4N3xOiuJG7EZ2zBrZs59q4EhUKJFF8thsf42kLYKyGK8ERJ8f9njN-vjtBZHmVNAl_pISC5DnTSWHUVAD4FpmjA/s1600/_MG_9512.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipBS4_PJqqmNh_7PUTHlHmTk51HJatH8eOTRIq-YXQa9TWqg_nOu2qnu-eVVf42-G-qCawCARw4BuOHhX0FZoZ6jMmL9o5a-TD-DCit6RLXKvC_VO9gIMk_5NZD1HTSWheejw2JQ/s1600/_MG_9522.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipBS4_PJqqmNh_7PUTHlHmTk51HJatH8eOTRIq-YXQa9TWqg_nOu2qnu-eVVf42-G-qCawCARw4BuOHhX0FZoZ6jMmL9o5a-TD-DCit6RLXKvC_VO9gIMk_5NZD1HTSWheejw2JQ/s1600/_MG_9522.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh28N44g8t6LWT7eOrwgTjuoFv93BaSWpASeXfVCJRc3JbqzGYAuv6qihmYYvxQvZ3MU6TavJI43n2QGpIEvUVncx422f21BNHNlZSvuUizRNcKP6Xp3FDOYNFfHI-ZPy_47aAaGQ/s1600/_MG_9530.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh28N44g8t6LWT7eOrwgTjuoFv93BaSWpASeXfVCJRc3JbqzGYAuv6qihmYYvxQvZ3MU6TavJI43n2QGpIEvUVncx422f21BNHNlZSvuUizRNcKP6Xp3FDOYNFfHI-ZPy_47aAaGQ/s1600/_MG_9530.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkaiGD-NjHnV0sKFhaOhhFsE_GU-_o9jtCaprQWsweyLhbEvR9546qp6zQcBLh3f31Yf-qkeRCabNR9draiS6WNAxz7iYx0gbnNUrwb9l9S4iUhQmzv8ZyqIVswzZ84amWkcm4FA/s1600/_MG_9533.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkaiGD-NjHnV0sKFhaOhhFsE_GU-_o9jtCaprQWsweyLhbEvR9546qp6zQcBLh3f31Yf-qkeRCabNR9draiS6WNAxz7iYx0gbnNUrwb9l9S4iUhQmzv8ZyqIVswzZ84amWkcm4FA/s1600/_MG_9533.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMk2MMehm0ENlu9c4tniFJ71W4_VdZymr0F044VpRbYjUo1b-0V7lVBJD8bitHXUB-TMXOJLXx57g3wMS2VSm4JLjAhkWZ55ljkp3WBadIpRBAxxVxApBJUCjWBfY71YpJumsXig/s1600/_MG_9541.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMk2MMehm0ENlu9c4tniFJ71W4_VdZymr0F044VpRbYjUo1b-0V7lVBJD8bitHXUB-TMXOJLXx57g3wMS2VSm4JLjAhkWZ55ljkp3WBadIpRBAxxVxApBJUCjWBfY71YpJumsXig/s1600/_MG_9541.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; line-height: 19px; text-align: left;">Ilulissat Icefjord</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Day 14</b><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We repositioned
southwards overnight, on fairly calm seas for the last part, the early morning
bringing us into Sisimiut, Greenland's second largest town with about 4,500
people living here, some in the attractive brightly coloured houses close to
the port but most living in drab low rise blocks further uphill out of the
town. But under bright sunshine and a chill wind, it was a good place to
wander, go visit the many husky dogs whose home was further inland away from
the town housing areas, and on our way back to the ship a chance to taste local
'delicacies' including dried minke whale meat (good), raw Beluga skin (yuk) and
some excellent local prawns, the latter being the mainstay of the local fishing
and food processing industry. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO7ImT_Zj_4ka5lQMiJa58M0UBL8wg36H43KRmBux3hpp4_HwmFbGj5IZ4nrYjh_btqqEMT4c6W_FW3cllhYLR_YQZP_P5brxkFjeCiZesIINtoyCOZnz2xmipmaK8lnR8TPA-1w/s1600/P1120008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO7ImT_Zj_4ka5lQMiJa58M0UBL8wg36H43KRmBux3hpp4_HwmFbGj5IZ4nrYjh_btqqEMT4c6W_FW3cllhYLR_YQZP_P5brxkFjeCiZesIINtoyCOZnz2xmipmaK8lnR8TPA-1w/s1600/P1120008.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sisimuit</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4SsTKmYzO0Cy2YwzB2TKjlyRfM80eVtwMg3G74kyotfYorVMiBsdqNUSWO5oDVXos7y2krCw3G7nYNuZMZTaGAI6LmLn8r7oZ4ateE2ZymYPvYbxZNpZvUuPYDXsjL_qtW7qlOw/s1600/P1120024.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4SsTKmYzO0Cy2YwzB2TKjlyRfM80eVtwMg3G74kyotfYorVMiBsdqNUSWO5oDVXos7y2krCw3G7nYNuZMZTaGAI6LmLn8r7oZ4ateE2ZymYPvYbxZNpZvUuPYDXsjL_qtW7qlOw/s1600/P1120024.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaOadQpUE1mPgl68ECxouXwB5VQfM6WejtrmC9DJGD74qcwdgr6Rh1dWq7o5IjUqr-tLbVJ_dpCis1DpjQK0dGnOZrJFVt236AyK0Sf0PzOtPFLn_zVEoTdYfl0Uj64pfwzhfjBA/s1600/P1120051.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaOadQpUE1mPgl68ECxouXwB5VQfM6WejtrmC9DJGD74qcwdgr6Rh1dWq7o5IjUqr-tLbVJ_dpCis1DpjQK0dGnOZrJFVt236AyK0Sf0PzOtPFLn_zVEoTdYfl0Uj64pfwzhfjBA/s1600/P1120051.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Husky dogs outside Sisimuit</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbAoThgn3GQzl9fFOqq2LzSs_wUGsTNo24PrN_TmhTFVk22Hgdb5KyPiMeQzRLu0eVCM2RGVUVTmZZ51ECWfz22oFb9YkMSI5BqrfziomvSxj2P36mMrJitv5IMgykxkFwh3raTw/s1600/P1120065.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbAoThgn3GQzl9fFOqq2LzSs_wUGsTNo24PrN_TmhTFVk22Hgdb5KyPiMeQzRLu0eVCM2RGVUVTmZZ51ECWfz22oFb9YkMSI5BqrfziomvSxj2P36mMrJitv5IMgykxkFwh3raTw/s1600/P1120065.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Local delicacies - dried Capelin, dried Greenland Cod, dried Minke whale, raw Beluga whale</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A transit further
south took us on big seas to the tiny village of Itilleq, on the entrance to
Hivdieqfjord, a small community focused on hunting and fishing. It was a
beautiful afternoon, albeit with severe wind chill, and the brightly painted
houses stood out amidst impressive mountain scenery inland.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF2aWpK540Vv3IRP2YxpNuXYCxTNvfu_C54SKyWvRV7Y8uf8xp7H13prE9VySjWlyU8q1TCkADFVMaBtMADm7dpFd6s5j6p8-c3wMuFqqJZoJMJNJsmuby4ZvG76m7qi83VemYog/s1600/P1120112.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF2aWpK540Vv3IRP2YxpNuXYCxTNvfu_C54SKyWvRV7Y8uf8xp7H13prE9VySjWlyU8q1TCkADFVMaBtMADm7dpFd6s5j6p8-c3wMuFqqJZoJMJNJsmuby4ZvG76m7qi83VemYog/s1600/P1120112.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHhBnhn9mPQZFYsamXsHdBlWgFuCPPXTPFmCy4eB49UBSmWPRhidiiVYgBYGw6TFEkgU3Y6jkOb_5uWaiKxuen_7N0yozA0SZI0Lhzn_ooFIoNUnFFIpdUkhh4bMbalk3o5t3CKQ/s1600/P1120124.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHhBnhn9mPQZFYsamXsHdBlWgFuCPPXTPFmCy4eB49UBSmWPRhidiiVYgBYGw6TFEkgU3Y6jkOb_5uWaiKxuen_7N0yozA0SZI0Lhzn_ooFIoNUnFFIpdUkhh4bMbalk3o5t3CKQ/s1600/P1120124.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJBMeF_zmr8Wq23k-0VIwIlRkrahF6rEbt7Gw5KEq-rfJaK3tZJ3LjS6fwxDDj5wsfUuc86lTaJ9_1rZfDmAsrFNmnDnBrhaQgGbLLvP1i_EhEUgPMImQgNMn-ItTxnlaXiOyaKg/s1600/P1120141.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJBMeF_zmr8Wq23k-0VIwIlRkrahF6rEbt7Gw5KEq-rfJaK3tZJ3LjS6fwxDDj5wsfUuc86lTaJ9_1rZfDmAsrFNmnDnBrhaQgGbLLvP1i_EhEUgPMImQgNMn-ItTxnlaXiOyaKg/s1600/P1120141.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWcul1oDyS3JAbBieNWs84ifXLEc95TFzi_1pfF_-mn6NginECipn6qVpJ8HNElOed3R7yHKZY0Eqiusr91jnmxL5LfPDpjB8R1USmOxYc5V9nFfCPjbx-3I7vtGlJ2o3QaLjTLQ/s1600/P1120158.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWcul1oDyS3JAbBieNWs84ifXLEc95TFzi_1pfF_-mn6NginECipn6qVpJ8HNElOed3R7yHKZY0Eqiusr91jnmxL5LfPDpjB8R1USmOxYc5V9nFfCPjbx-3I7vtGlJ2o3QaLjTLQ/s1600/P1120158.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The perfect spot to end our last full day in Greenland, the lovely Itelleq</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Our evening was
spent celebrating the imminent end of our journey, a gala dinner followed by
trip slideshow and, unsurprisingly, a few last beers.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDlpYI5R4ZRueAMfjLyemiPjC1v0xM6ayzTGeUSJw6cXy19YhgmGEoiZSRywDFUS_D1iqXkhHWU9wQYLC9iBZ4gjpEwF526fp42bHL86a0GReDNQ9KeJCGJKZK8hmzmDzyfvYZ-Q/s1600/Kimmirut+to+Kangerlussuaq.tiff" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDlpYI5R4ZRueAMfjLyemiPjC1v0xM6ayzTGeUSJw6cXy19YhgmGEoiZSRywDFUS_D1iqXkhHWU9wQYLC9iBZ4gjpEwF526fp42bHL86a0GReDNQ9KeJCGJKZK8hmzmDzyfvYZ-Q/s1600/Kimmirut+to+Kangerlussuaq.tiff" height="452" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The second half of our expedition, from northwestern Quebec, to Baffin Island and then across the Davis Strait to Greenland</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: right;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTECp5J4bnbxuNCc_s6N6XN3nRabhT9hl7RSXVf4JmU7Pto9oNl91BSoiwG9jd-BX5-pzM1BLVDH8n-S6jOzNwGFuNM9U_mB3ASn2ghrh5SqLUeEdbN6PZ2Kl5BZ22-Pw2J30TxA/s1600/West+Greenland+detail+2.tiff" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTECp5J4bnbxuNCc_s6N6XN3nRabhT9hl7RSXVf4JmU7Pto9oNl91BSoiwG9jd-BX5-pzM1BLVDH8n-S6jOzNwGFuNM9U_mB3ASn2ghrh5SqLUeEdbN6PZ2Kl5BZ22-Pw2J30TxA/s1600/West+Greenland+detail+2.tiff" height="640" width="484" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Final days along the west coast of Greenland</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Day 15</b><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 120%;">Disembarkation
day, landing us at the head of the long Kangerlussuaq Fjord followed by a short
tour to view the massive Greenland Icecap above this old USAF air force base,
now handling about 300,000 tourists per year. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 120%;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO-I5YFfRAl14A2a3rszdqXo0GTyKOREBRh-c2RAGyvylsElFg_0HySvHyMQX4sspW7qhOusbMEact4Jv-Cc4J5G2ysKmJWvWs-o5pIw4trp2dKluJrRHxvPpeALAZalxErk6XKg/s1600/P1120182.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO-I5YFfRAl14A2a3rszdqXo0GTyKOREBRh-c2RAGyvylsElFg_0HySvHyMQX4sspW7qhOusbMEact4Jv-Cc4J5G2ysKmJWvWs-o5pIw4trp2dKluJrRHxvPpeALAZalxErk6XKg/s1600/P1120182.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Distant view to the Greenland Ice Cap from above Kanderlussuaq</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5eEuk7vQOOfbyjZgCERvoNTY3PXkyhMA4mle4Z32EZOgiVLej4_RMVI7PVhnuhGNYO9u7cAxc2kU_FSxasdglpBDmTiUAavznMYxNzXzqxzio9Fy3qS3hje5KCfeEx35mSiTTyg/s1600/P1120185.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5eEuk7vQOOfbyjZgCERvoNTY3PXkyhMA4mle4Z32EZOgiVLej4_RMVI7PVhnuhGNYO9u7cAxc2kU_FSxasdglpBDmTiUAavznMYxNzXzqxzio9Fy3qS3hje5KCfeEx35mSiTTyg/s1600/P1120185.jpg" height="446" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Kanderlussuaq airport</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAD37kGocc7vZMXzyJzr4XMmUpocysIrb7SZNNCvUw-4oSO3RREpa1ObJXEnGZuCYOY2kXMVaNleYcDILtB-hLZIhRAeJC3WZobLUikKb58H3_egY9r46rmHv-FkGTcJMXBvYSkg/s1600/P1120187.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAD37kGocc7vZMXzyJzr4XMmUpocysIrb7SZNNCvUw-4oSO3RREpa1ObJXEnGZuCYOY2kXMVaNleYcDILtB-hLZIhRAeJC3WZobLUikKb58H3_egY9r46rmHv-FkGTcJMXBvYSkg/s1600/P1120187.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Final beer in Greenland</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 120%;">Then a four hour 15 minute flight
to Copenhagen, first passing over the icecap below us. Very impressive views,
but then much needed zzzz</span><span style="line-height: 120%;">’</span><span style="line-height: 120%;">s! A final nightcap with fellow
travellers at the Copenhagen Airport Hilton.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 120%;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1Od4M2W5mMx-ztt_tPFPziLoo2hbOfvcgcdQ9pZtLmBmaQDmi_bHSdhl1qrA8T-wbM5XEXkCPSWdLnhJGlasZqijspGb9BY3EkMOhpwx2R8HyTXBOG70Dp2FJ9OrhVLJK3mfM7Q/s1600/P1120192.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1Od4M2W5mMx-ztt_tPFPziLoo2hbOfvcgcdQ9pZtLmBmaQDmi_bHSdhl1qrA8T-wbM5XEXkCPSWdLnhJGlasZqijspGb9BY3EkMOhpwx2R8HyTXBOG70Dp2FJ9OrhVLJK3mfM7Q/s1600/P1120192.jpg" height="466" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8JYi9Su9xtorrM1OAHwGGkrbquIwb6mhvA0yEC4DoDyn__gzV9AcyPwQL0u1sCAAeooe2DslBoSOvNXE0VapX1jK3BHS0UEVDUXsLEmJ41WYMNQHPUX9Nxy1H_7o6mdLgg74Wzw/s1600/P1120194.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8JYi9Su9xtorrM1OAHwGGkrbquIwb6mhvA0yEC4DoDyn__gzV9AcyPwQL0u1sCAAeooe2DslBoSOvNXE0VapX1jK3BHS0UEVDUXsLEmJ41WYMNQHPUX9Nxy1H_7o6mdLgg74Wzw/s1600/P1120194.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPG2WOFmifZL6eLFPFwGkCg8-wKLXH_TWIzpV5V67o10alKiikcIpr-7ktoMDD8CXu22CuvqGDLXxrod7vKItvi-BZOFIEldKkPxG5g-PpIiZQsJHxNaqv9G5F341CHaNhc1ZLHg/s1600/P1120203.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPG2WOFmifZL6eLFPFwGkCg8-wKLXH_TWIzpV5V67o10alKiikcIpr-7ktoMDD8CXu22CuvqGDLXxrod7vKItvi-BZOFIEldKkPxG5g-PpIiZQsJHxNaqv9G5F341CHaNhc1ZLHg/s1600/P1120203.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Views down on to the Greenland Ice Cap</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Day 16</b><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-GB</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0cm;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:"Times New Roman";
border:none;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
<!--EndFragment--><br />
<div class="Body">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Copenhagen to
Birmingham with SAS. And, back to reality!</span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>With thanks to the Quark Expeditions team on board, capably led by Alex McNeil, and a special award for the excellent bar team led by Sixto!</b></span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW20MMo3aHj4UrUKLmKdPcTzBn9iG9lcoDeHTaR3xoHb_aMDmq3_DI_POmqT1-fTSKPIkwW8kZqIylahIY4-dLs-1W_1vI5Oae0PiolMGP-W5qZ4qHqvvTqAWWaEgRSYqJaiN9dQ/s1600/P1100239.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW20MMo3aHj4UrUKLmKdPcTzBn9iG9lcoDeHTaR3xoHb_aMDmq3_DI_POmqT1-fTSKPIkwW8kZqIylahIY4-dLs-1W_1vI5Oae0PiolMGP-W5qZ4qHqvvTqAWWaEgRSYqJaiN9dQ/s1600/P1100239.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Another day at the office for the expedition team!</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></span></div>
<span style="line-height: 120%;"><span style="font-size: 13pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9888425.post-43541684853185445802014-06-29T16:42:00.001+00:002014-07-01T17:52:24.433+00:00Sierra de Gredos, Spain - June 2014<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyT6NBOlvXeLQ_YELOLeKMi6n59u8NX765S09_Xe_RpJkTvtgFwWvCadMILeZR1pmOF36D4ReTUf_UYlwAP4f9XPV72f_XdA3gDGnSxe7nitTb7EQ_Sn9-DflCUXmC02KRlUNP9A/s640/blogger-image--1783724842.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyT6NBOlvXeLQ_YELOLeKMi6n59u8NX765S09_Xe_RpJkTvtgFwWvCadMILeZR1pmOF36D4ReTUf_UYlwAP4f9XPV72f_XdA3gDGnSxe7nitTb7EQ_Sn9-DflCUXmC02KRlUNP9A/s640/blogger-image--1783724842.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
</div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Just a couple of hours drive west of Madrid are the mountains which divide the river valleys of the Tiétar and Tormes, rising in granitic solitude to the peak of Almanzor at 2592m.</span></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh03XVajdPW8cMu6D6zeqlRuaXS_1tYeFt-q5mNRNCiZYhhdW2j6W0wDQepQfMhg3K2v6Gjw3lMDnm3ju2pv0ErNXGXgb2RFKZ7x9Vt367TCHQqiKNOc1IerpA2vJOAoZ3dBGIl9g/s640/blogger-image-1842235708.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh03XVajdPW8cMu6D6zeqlRuaXS_1tYeFt-q5mNRNCiZYhhdW2j6W0wDQepQfMhg3K2v6Gjw3lMDnm3ju2pv0ErNXGXgb2RFKZ7x9Vt367TCHQqiKNOc1IerpA2vJOAoZ3dBGIl9g/s640/blogger-image-1842235708.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Granite features at the Puerto de Peón</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxUY0J_165H6ecEzabPBNsHy3dFrFjrD46imCZqNs9CQkr4kYmPudUKgtGmaGgrk0YH344mMla84Iirjn0XT_W14oyhNj8jEENGVanFw41J0hrQ8D8zxF20O3AlQkhMmpO4scbxQ/s640/blogger-image-1785056360.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxUY0J_165H6ecEzabPBNsHy3dFrFjrD46imCZqNs9CQkr4kYmPudUKgtGmaGgrk0YH344mMla84Iirjn0XT_W14oyhNj8jEENGVanFw41J0hrQ8D8zxF20O3AlQkhMmpO4scbxQ/s640/blogger-image-1785056360.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs-TXRUfCwHdsLcglQwcqZJ8vwZ8esQZ5UdKHyU-OKz8zDH2AY2TL0zSQlmwGN1sVYyw5euLK999Nwrp-wyJ8lHaRwueMPlGl_b2-Rog8c4Cz6Tu6dsrWlwIJcuZUnKNOn3AtVbg/s640/blogger-image--1237502046.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs-TXRUfCwHdsLcglQwcqZJ8vwZ8esQZ5UdKHyU-OKz8zDH2AY2TL0zSQlmwGN1sVYyw5euLK999Nwrp-wyJ8lHaRwueMPlGl_b2-Rog8c4Cz6Tu6dsrWlwIJcuZUnKNOn3AtVbg/s640/blogger-image--1237502046.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Magnificent views on the Laguna Grande walk</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7x6TQQoqTdCMtBaSukso0Cv4jbiCHYAbaGxWi4n-rQA4cOF2lVz3P0jIJZezAPI9dVWtS4wFMu4dR-hPwhzldUZ_wop8Pk9RCE0p-snE0quzYn0gv0N15jOvqL54Qn-QzYmvvGw/s640/blogger-image--1749079845.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7x6TQQoqTdCMtBaSukso0Cv4jbiCHYAbaGxWi4n-rQA4cOF2lVz3P0jIJZezAPI9dVWtS4wFMu4dR-hPwhzldUZ_wop8Pk9RCE0p-snE0quzYn0gv0N15jOvqL54Qn-QzYmvvGw/s640/blogger-image--1749079845.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguxU0wOzVKw-qs3XFf2Mn-_Dl2VpxJzMxNIRfr7O6B7CTkPsgaE1qaxRrHWPkv8k6pJbntbe_kp1M9r-vpqWyJKMon3gbmLvREQubldM6JD_t-e_8AkaS101cbPczkgOSROmcVjQ/s640/blogger-image--1611045525.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguxU0wOzVKw-qs3XFf2Mn-_Dl2VpxJzMxNIRfr7O6B7CTkPsgaE1qaxRrHWPkv8k6pJbntbe_kp1M9r-vpqWyJKMon3gbmLvREQubldM6JD_t-e_8AkaS101cbPczkgOSROmcVjQ/s640/blogger-image--1611045525.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Typical upland scenery in the Sierra de Gredos - broom everywhere!</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Apart from weekends, this region remains largely devoid of visitors, a vast area of upland populated by herds of cattle at medium altitude and the higher elevations by the big horned ibex, standing proud over their domain, only bettered by the numerous raptors soaring high above them - griffin vultures, golden eagle, red kites and numerous black storks who descend to their prominent nests on buildings and towers in the towns and villages to keep an wary eye on the local residents. </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGnE_-7B5N6XbX00CtiwehQYdkrpfY9SaTU88hNnZld2FFZ7t2P4OqiDSrMC1AiHjqAvmuEDKsDbgvM5ZRFi2tCVwBlPPMBcDZbeGNUJd654ho6X_TxH13kdeIGuKD_UEa1PbkUg/s640/blogger-image-126373983.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGnE_-7B5N6XbX00CtiwehQYdkrpfY9SaTU88hNnZld2FFZ7t2P4OqiDSrMC1AiHjqAvmuEDKsDbgvM5ZRFi2tCVwBlPPMBcDZbeGNUJd654ho6X_TxH13kdeIGuKD_UEa1PbkUg/s640/blogger-image-126373983.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Summit views from El Torozo 2121m</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnkiywDZf1UFbNYRY9UG1_vCAd2Awu22OucNWVFbyQMa7Eh-7oUGLWX-qjd3MDkCXBhvNgoofIJjz1jPgJoAdQU6oy6S1eY8sdX3kttDWtp255o167rdTp3J2lojtzls6hQIgE7g/s640/blogger-image-518157077.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnkiywDZf1UFbNYRY9UG1_vCAd2Awu22OucNWVFbyQMa7Eh-7oUGLWX-qjd3MDkCXBhvNgoofIJjz1jPgJoAdQU6oy6S1eY8sdX3kttDWtp255o167rdTp3J2lojtzls6hQIgE7g/s640/blogger-image-518157077.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimig_f4ALFRIE7n3Oatg52VbcNW0sLhh8d5WA5Q_iOC6hAevYrm836qnGVF6emPUTNQxp_OvGK-nkGn4RUFk55BL1LJ4ODsF1XofEK0HwVZ7c1cm5i7wQhaGwOZXFkqMRkHbxnfQ/s640/blogger-image--1825875655.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimig_f4ALFRIE7n3Oatg52VbcNW0sLhh8d5WA5Q_iOC6hAevYrm836qnGVF6emPUTNQxp_OvGK-nkGn4RUFk55BL1LJ4ODsF1XofEK0HwVZ7c1cm5i7wQhaGwOZXFkqMRkHbxnfQ/s640/blogger-image--1825875655.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Big horned ibex on the summit of El Torozo</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqvH-oNkkJMEx72yvJn2BbxHVziS4vVdcG9M-2zyIK_oCb2f39p5JCtb9UnUTXm1gfI0MIyOdM-7bhdZOc6VSh05tnzjK4qEeyfcsq4Js5MCHAJ3Cb9iCHrao9eMzPS_rmDB6MkQ/s640/blogger-image--422678208.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqvH-oNkkJMEx72yvJn2BbxHVziS4vVdcG9M-2zyIK_oCb2f39p5JCtb9UnUTXm1gfI0MIyOdM-7bhdZOc6VSh05tnzjK4qEeyfcsq4Js5MCHAJ3Cb9iCHrao9eMzPS_rmDB6MkQ/s640/blogger-image--422678208.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Granite outcrops</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
The north of the region, my base for a week's exploration, is a country of foothills covered in yellow flowering broom, heather and grassland, with higher peaks protruding beyond them, still holding on to old snow in the northern corries and rocky gullies in the summery glare of June. Cattle roam far and wide, still rounded up by horsemen in this part of the world, and the area punctuated by characterful little villages, nestling quietly in peaceful solitude. In the high country there are outcrops of granite that would give the granite monoliths of Tioga Pass up from Yosemite a run for their money, and fine tors which remind me of the barren tops of Dartmoor in the UK.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5ZrjXWX3iZFkJeEu9VhrgpaASy-sP_TbLZIjriTx-6qxHNJhRMmLDE0xjkQiVmdtbzpQ1JGoCVKYqPyLc0D7YMWtU84KVpNnxSk-c67Eqptd-uVyaZYnBnYAyuz-ImmU9O7aswg/s640/blogger-image--1183361611.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5ZrjXWX3iZFkJeEu9VhrgpaASy-sP_TbLZIjriTx-6qxHNJhRMmLDE0xjkQiVmdtbzpQ1JGoCVKYqPyLc0D7YMWtU84KVpNnxSk-c67Eqptd-uVyaZYnBnYAyuz-ImmU9O7aswg/s640/blogger-image--1183361611.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Bullring in Santa Cruz de Valle</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHUeg8xlEnnKv2Cwt9Hh7Xhdu923N29QA8smvLTr1-20EenUloRclJUMZAiooLj39HIRqDRIQIWQA-eGjtSJ4hOdMmwbeUcI9Om68wKXbkxKWywaSj16_4CLTmAQBS5xPhq0V1HA/s640/blogger-image--41412843.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHUeg8xlEnnKv2Cwt9Hh7Xhdu923N29QA8smvLTr1-20EenUloRclJUMZAiooLj39HIRqDRIQIWQA-eGjtSJ4hOdMmwbeUcI9Om68wKXbkxKWywaSj16_4CLTmAQBS5xPhq0V1HA/s640/blogger-image--41412843.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Mombeltrán</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBM1HKh4sOVcjfldj1df-Y_w4Z2qFrCBJnl_TCuuwZTzuIQU1l0zQu4FWY2fyow0qSIsuP_6TrBX6Jt1A_iMF95TTaBm15aZOz2Gvln-X355P6kVp62R-4RIrcxeve2SuvhP68UQ/s640/blogger-image-956516192.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBM1HKh4sOVcjfldj1df-Y_w4Z2qFrCBJnl_TCuuwZTzuIQU1l0zQu4FWY2fyow0qSIsuP_6TrBX6Jt1A_iMF95TTaBm15aZOz2Gvln-X355P6kVp62R-4RIrcxeve2SuvhP68UQ/s640/blogger-image-956516192.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">View towards Toledo from the Mirador on La Abantera</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjymsYcHI53gEgpt_FvMpyWsoVbxJHEgSfXhIMimOzoYdbLrkCEIB3zRPsQKPZ4_lKuFrBMtcATOW1G9h1QUmX9gQPGHljYnozimHsMAW1O361nad9pkf3dXDaI5T3YRizrSktdiA/s640/blogger-image--27983670.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjymsYcHI53gEgpt_FvMpyWsoVbxJHEgSfXhIMimOzoYdbLrkCEIB3zRPsQKPZ4_lKuFrBMtcATOW1G9h1QUmX9gQPGHljYnozimHsMAW1O361nad9pkf3dXDaI5T3YRizrSktdiA/s640/blogger-image--27983670.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">View over San Esteban</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
Venture a little further south, crossing the 1395m pass of Puerto del Pico on a fine mountain road which vies for attention with a cobbled Roman road which runs down the same defile to Cuevas de Valle, you enter a different climatic zone. Hotter days here, although a cooling breeze can still plummet down from the heights to relieve you at times, and a proliferation of trees bearing olives, figs and citrus fruit amidst free spirited vineyards, quite unlike their disciplined brothers further north in Rioja.</div>
<div>
Or go further north, cross a 1900m pass towards Piedrahita, favoured by the hang gliding fraternity, and you enter the vast rolling plains which stretch up to the elegant little city of Salamanca and west to the Portugeuse border. Vast swathes of grassland punctuated by stunted oak trees and barley crops as far as the eye can see.</div>
<div>
Although it's mid summer here in Spain and the sun hot on the face during the day, a good breeze is pervasive, and cool, even chilly nights make life here very tolerable. The granite peaks make for good rock-climbing territory, and there are many trails (GR, 'Grand Randonnee', and smaller 'PR') which are generally well waymarked with wooden posts, cairns or vertical rock pillars. The most popular, best avoided at weekends, is the Laguna Grande, an easy high level walk to visit the grand cirque and glacial lake below Almanzor. Other walks like the pull up to the pass at Puerto de Peón at over 1900m or the fine summit of El Torozo 2021m will find you virtually alone on the tracks, apart from the watchful ibex and the raptors hunting high above.</div>
<div>
The conservation authorities have done their best to encourage people to walk the area, without causing erosion on the more popular routes, although some, like the 'Five Viilages' circuit from San Estaban in the south, or the climb to the wonderful viewpoint of Mirador La Abantera take intervention to a minimalist level, with infrequent signposts and a reliance on old wooden signs and small cairns to guide you through the pine forests. </div>
<div>
A day off to visit Salamanca, 90 minutes drive to the north from my base in the little village of Hoyos del Espino, was very enjoyable. Two cathedrals, a Roman bridge, and fine golden sandstone that dominates the architecture of this small university city make Salamanca a great place to visit. And the town square, the Plaza Mayor, is a truly impressive centrepiece of this UNESCO World Heritage city. Temptations galore of course, local preserved hams, savoury pie and pastries, plus, of course, the myriad tapas bars.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin2KxyrAqfpmMzm8m3tdYEqzMScHMUis6QXiNMLkwGXDl0Cl_bAARpMKoqPSPp9Ijmn98pYcSm9RQowTauJiEot5PUKDcZvLXbwrEEZeNP4XjzJ8lviTxnZIccvdmkZbtjWKkF6w/s640/blogger-image-389966522.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin2KxyrAqfpmMzm8m3tdYEqzMScHMUis6QXiNMLkwGXDl0Cl_bAARpMKoqPSPp9Ijmn98pYcSm9RQowTauJiEot5PUKDcZvLXbwrEEZeNP4XjzJ8lviTxnZIccvdmkZbtjWKkF6w/s640/blogger-image-389966522.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Plaza Major in Salamanca</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqUmSd92JDGuf5QMpZYcF80xX0lu79yjzn0BiMVWKhxIsVweynhD0Wis2YrJG1q6Fdoh1oxQjbzg1BViQeW5g8_ZVib_Bgc7degMD6FNUxKEg8ZUm3CEbN7fF6P7BfnxPo7tEOEQ/s640/blogger-image--6937706.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqUmSd92JDGuf5QMpZYcF80xX0lu79yjzn0BiMVWKhxIsVweynhD0Wis2YrJG1q6Fdoh1oxQjbzg1BViQeW5g8_ZVib_Bgc7degMD6FNUxKEg8ZUm3CEbN7fF6P7BfnxPo7tEOEQ/s640/blogger-image--6937706.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYTW1AFpCFYfk_yiL1mFFXpT6NQdP2BB_X5ZxdlDloooW3daWgR-GwESxxPExxxIeiCJYTW19HwZZG7gNv9I6ayAK5EviB6nigw7d5WMa7kdeizPJt2MjLyJ6i7mTYZU51UJpqyg/s640/blogger-image-13294793.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYTW1AFpCFYfk_yiL1mFFXpT6NQdP2BB_X5ZxdlDloooW3daWgR-GwESxxPExxxIeiCJYTW19HwZZG7gNv9I6ayAK5EviB6nigw7d5WMa7kdeizPJt2MjLyJ6i7mTYZU51UJpqyg/s640/blogger-image-13294793.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge9AQA_671_ryHZ6JNzFDAKUncnFB1zz6EKHoMfw43XHkZNkOsw-j-TyWvGZ9suema5OoAvAy99p4_-yipMRb1AKxIBc1kR3hASaq2kMYv75x1TP9Hn3YdArGjDARM5X98pkAuaQ/s640/blogger-image--1221368190.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge9AQA_671_ryHZ6JNzFDAKUncnFB1zz6EKHoMfw43XHkZNkOsw-j-TyWvGZ9suema5OoAvAy99p4_-yipMRb1AKxIBc1kR3hASaq2kMYv75x1TP9Hn3YdArGjDARM5X98pkAuaQ/s640/blogger-image--1221368190.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh03fWg61G42JEIXoNb5WP_Mzk0HU7XmPwFFzei_oZdUQBPY-bxdukSVR6iQmqLkSCuuey0LO9PUmg2OP9rLMYeMKuEXkeB7jQ3Llljspquv7fwKtfwgqDb5Dess5v-2LZpN1rAhA/s640/blogger-image--1805299174.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh03fWg61G42JEIXoNb5WP_Mzk0HU7XmPwFFzei_oZdUQBPY-bxdukSVR6iQmqLkSCuuey0LO9PUmg2OP9rLMYeMKuEXkeB7jQ3Llljspquv7fwKtfwgqDb5Dess5v-2LZpN1rAhA/s640/blogger-image--1805299174.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHIHMrkfBqRKYx-iP8ie-6FS-3T8lkldOEOGPTp6BqcSghD3b65rWeb-XMLE4y0Ca1XqC-oXKl1Q5Byy2oOdyZnJWvqodvsh-UGDUmPZn1MmkywbJd_G8g65EC28mdkh1-iIdf7Q/s640/blogger-image-1849552850.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHIHMrkfBqRKYx-iP8ie-6FS-3T8lkldOEOGPTp6BqcSghD3b65rWeb-XMLE4y0Ca1XqC-oXKl1Q5Byy2oOdyZnJWvqodvsh-UGDUmPZn1MmkywbJd_G8g65EC28mdkh1-iIdf7Q/s640/blogger-image-1849552850.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">View from the Puerto de Chia, 1710m</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
And, on the way back to Madrid for the flight home, the beautifully preserved walled town of Avila is worth a couple of hours of anybody's time:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoeJR8uBeOZfrYEaLhk-v-zLveUIb8P6J-6InfQEqwyvEJnRJ604ka3NTWXIWP_iV24nshqHcRGebKFQE7YBt-6GeTqEoXN1B6lZ8_tQrZ7AxtIz4GzHy7ckad4OWWHxnveNpgKg/s1600/P1090941.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoeJR8uBeOZfrYEaLhk-v-zLveUIb8P6J-6InfQEqwyvEJnRJ604ka3NTWXIWP_iV24nshqHcRGebKFQE7YBt-6GeTqEoXN1B6lZ8_tQrZ7AxtIz4GzHy7ckad4OWWHxnveNpgKg/s1600/P1090941.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Avila</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdzHzSUJJJkoytin18hN8xfe3-hiSmkJMgN1VDXrS2BSXAULKsUJ6S_CcnQbNB5gQAJDLJ87xMUlR-WC61djf0w2EZsAhNG6bs-YoDrohLMIXX_ozNiTVcVXN9wNlt1azcFwWWrg/s1600/P1090928.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdzHzSUJJJkoytin18hN8xfe3-hiSmkJMgN1VDXrS2BSXAULKsUJ6S_CcnQbNB5gQAJDLJ87xMUlR-WC61djf0w2EZsAhNG6bs-YoDrohLMIXX_ozNiTVcVXN9wNlt1azcFwWWrg/s1600/P1090928.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpW6sNpVzRF5tc7mRz-8tJI9CUvncDEBzyadmE_UM2G_UB6bAz6lwRsp8VdWxTAQoR6nOE4Wy_O6kUF2W5MfIO4G3wOGhAGbplPoCLDIjCBIl2mAWzctZD2SnW8uiGNgYpyQUT8w/s1600/P1090914.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpW6sNpVzRF5tc7mRz-8tJI9CUvncDEBzyadmE_UM2G_UB6bAz6lwRsp8VdWxTAQoR6nOE4Wy_O6kUF2W5MfIO4G3wOGhAGbplPoCLDIjCBIl2mAWzctZD2SnW8uiGNgYpyQUT8w/s1600/P1090914.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Had it not been for <a href="http://www.headwater.com/" target="_blank">Headwater</a>, the walking and cycling holiday company that I like to use, Sierra de Gredos would never have been on my radar, but with their help I've discovered a lovely part of Spain. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSnEV1KRu0hO_6b5GG20abYXAKTvTVC1VsvxiNpOFzVigW7HSU2-dIqbL_WODwzW0lCMQMtPUahxSBGl0B677m-RvpNHU0r3Z7s5EhtTzYMbiA8-_ugC_L4jp9hHKyjBEx5c6-iQ/s640/blogger-image--262120321.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSnEV1KRu0hO_6b5GG20abYXAKTvTVC1VsvxiNpOFzVigW7HSU2-dIqbL_WODwzW0lCMQMtPUahxSBGl0B677m-RvpNHU0r3Z7s5EhtTzYMbiA8-_ugC_L4jp9hHKyjBEx5c6-iQ/s640/blogger-image--262120321.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Room with a view!</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpg84h6Ydtzt94u7nRWJnrDKMnU9Dw3klDBXDDib-7i5ya3FyBCYwIHK6DDUxk6Rzw9l5gDbPQUy7KQfRJidjifa5EMiycxP52lukZ-PH-NtFU15XAThBucjAAlDj9WY5SL8Jwag/s640/blogger-image--1081482979.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpg84h6Ydtzt94u7nRWJnrDKMnU9Dw3klDBXDDib-7i5ya3FyBCYwIHK6DDUxk6Rzw9l5gDbPQUy7KQfRJidjifa5EMiycxP52lukZ-PH-NtFU15XAThBucjAAlDj9WY5SL8Jwag/s640/blogger-image--1081482979.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Early morning light over the Almanzor massif</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
My base, the excellent little hotel <i><a href="http://elmilanoreal.com/" target="_blank">El Milano Real</a> </i>in Hoyos del Espino, has been a treat. Elevated views to the highest peaks of the Sierra de Gredos, excellent food (especially their signature breakfast), with knowledgeable and genial hosts Teresa and Paco. </div>
<div>
Definitely worth the journey!</div>
</div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9888425.post-34172246768620992682014-04-02T16:15:00.001+00:002017-12-11T11:39:23.989+00:00Sicily & the Aolian Islands - April 2014<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Another self-indulgent adventure!<br />
<div>
This time I'm wandering around on the islands of Lipari, Vulcano and Stromboli to the north of the island of Sicily, hopping between them all by hydrofoil, and doing some walks in the wild volcanic scenery of this appealing archipelago. Collectively they're known as the Isola Eolie, or the Liparian or Aolian Islands, named after the Greek god of wind, Aeolus.</div>
<div>
The journey begins in Catania, Sicily's second city, after a flight of some 2 hours 40 minutes from London Gatwick. It's typically Italian in flavour, with wide boulevards and plentiful piazza, buildings of fading grandeur, and bustling streets full of stylishly dressed locals. And there's a big student presence here with a university in the town, so there's an energy about the place.</div>
<div>
The city sits under the brooding 3,300m Etna volcano and there's a smoke plume emanating from the snow-capped summit as I write, which means summit access is likely to be closed whilst I'm here. </div>
<div>
The temperature here in early April is a very pleasant 20C, and it was a pleasure walking around Catania's centre, starting in the attractive Villa Bellini gardens<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue light" , , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;">. Near the Duomo there's a busy fish market and hidden within it there's a restaurant called Fratelli Vitorio, the decor rather basic, but some excellent fish antipasti and a main of grilled fish was enjoyed. A nice way to kick off the trip.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue light" , , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4yKjEQ1kwgawSjJujHH7fnM5Je60lqNkj2FkFSewyabEwrOYVG-OUItDULyE_Wnjm1A_nNGcV8f3M-NYuwFwOEOavfUhsoPBweIfCuPU5jjNlXmnmTF_7TW96uRjuJhTMp8YYBg/s640/blogger-image-1174196483.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4yKjEQ1kwgawSjJujHH7fnM5Je60lqNkj2FkFSewyabEwrOYVG-OUItDULyE_Wnjm1A_nNGcV8f3M-NYuwFwOEOavfUhsoPBweIfCuPU5jjNlXmnmTF_7TW96uRjuJhTMp8YYBg/s640/blogger-image-1174196483.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Villa Bellini Gardens, Catania</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG7z566cJXZA_8K36IIDRyY52N9XEaV7x1UKx26CdR7wI9P3JwbXH3Vi1krEmszwrTSoF8uvVnBDQqpPPCwVyKN4NaHRVyKvXsNqC-Afc-c_xP1qMCOErvrSwB37KkCz6SKevhqQ/s640/blogger-image-1770483929.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG7z566cJXZA_8K36IIDRyY52N9XEaV7x1UKx26CdR7wI9P3JwbXH3Vi1krEmszwrTSoF8uvVnBDQqpPPCwVyKN4NaHRVyKvXsNqC-Afc-c_xP1qMCOErvrSwB37KkCz6SKevhqQ/s640/blogger-image-1770483929.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Central Catania</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK_103QpY8AWkCYGJ0F6bzjMYirxdhlC2KsPVpCi-XfYP5e-lf14IWP_Wcb4mfmhp7UNsYpT5mD5GqndvPLzwW2lr7DYwnTYpp-BXmHB_IUI04J9Th9j0zxKuMm5YlVNAEk0uHlA/s640/blogger-image-488459056.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK_103QpY8AWkCYGJ0F6bzjMYirxdhlC2KsPVpCi-XfYP5e-lf14IWP_Wcb4mfmhp7UNsYpT5mD5GqndvPLzwW2lr7DYwnTYpp-BXmHB_IUI04J9Th9j0zxKuMm5YlVNAEk0uHlA/s640/blogger-image-488459056.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Leaving Catania, my transfer took me to the northern port of Milazzo for the hydrofoil journey to the largest of the Aolian Islands, Lipari. The road to Milazzo was interesting, passing the eastern flanks of Mount Etna, smoke billowing from a new eruption, the slopes extensively cloaked in snow. Catania has been wiped out by many lava flows over the centuries, the northern end of town comprised almost entirely of new builds.<br />Passing orange and lemon trees, olive groves and stands of prickly pear, we were soon approaching the hill towns around Taormina, pine trees now more prevalent, alongside eucalyptus, cherry and almond trees. Attractive mountainous but densely populated landscapes (apparently there are 6 million people living in Sicily, one tenth of the Italian total).<br />Passing the port of Messina, mainland Italy, Calabria, comes into view, just 3km away at the nearest point, and tempting a future road trip.<br />The crossing to Lipari took one hour 10 minutes, via the island of Vulcano, on a flat calm sea. </span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">The first walk of my trip started with a local bus ride across Lipari to reach Quattropani on the west coast. With fine views to the nearby volcanic island of Salina and the more distant Filicudi and Alicudi, there was a 500m descent through old kaolin workings to reach a fine coastal path which took me through stands of bamboo, white flowering thistle, prickly pear and gorse to reach more solid tracks into the village of Pianoconte.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiocBofq6Sc95-v7TbB4HRQpCh97QSYR_QJ_hkCrZO0AGwy747712ojWA_qydAMB08LA-tuV6jCnnXudUn9_SGY3D5hHFl9Ke093YYCo9fQJXw-QHvbxoarSl4m6WYnbJYnlx4u4w/s640/blogger-image--1763301162.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiocBofq6Sc95-v7TbB4HRQpCh97QSYR_QJ_hkCrZO0AGwy747712ojWA_qydAMB08LA-tuV6jCnnXudUn9_SGY3D5hHFl9Ke093YYCo9fQJXw-QHvbxoarSl4m6WYnbJYnlx4u4w/s640/blogger-image--1763301162.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">The island of Salina from Lipari</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB-gITXWm1mCSEKxDvn0YlY2vFhKeeDBc8AIfxzFG29QRBk9KCo4RKDjqPMJDdNOPe9MX4xo6YhXK2Jdf0d_iJ-xnFzkFKWVYjHsohE-Ix6P74P4vxya46gZ3QMFnTAgXZpqU59Q/s640/blogger-image--566285414.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB-gITXWm1mCSEKxDvn0YlY2vFhKeeDBc8AIfxzFG29QRBk9KCo4RKDjqPMJDdNOPe9MX4xo6YhXK2Jdf0d_iJ-xnFzkFKWVYjHsohE-Ix6P74P4vxya46gZ3QMFnTAgXZpqU59Q/s640/blogger-image--566285414.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Good walking country, Lipari's south coast</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"></span></div>
</div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6BKZ14NQHS9Nb9KI6_sqC0ok9N7HE7a7HmvWAk6VusZvwF3w658QcqWStbkYGm_DLC-JFI3pHqJR4SEsA0OJeFSeFgOB6ZDFtOXI2W4Vr-6VWOVWN8ZOmriM9F_FoFr9FyjOUkA/s640/blogger-image-1637158557.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6BKZ14NQHS9Nb9KI6_sqC0ok9N7HE7a7HmvWAk6VusZvwF3w658QcqWStbkYGm_DLC-JFI3pHqJR4SEsA0OJeFSeFgOB6ZDFtOXI2W4Vr-6VWOVWN8ZOmriM9F_FoFr9FyjOUkA/s640/blogger-image-1637158557.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Kaolin workings south west of Quattropani</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJopUef3Hcay6OsuQ-GLvtDVeAuoFOzuA7EkLiTmhkOiH1c2sIHiOf1m5JkCPtwhMX87pwJg2BLNpEP6Q73xLN_JjnXJpJ2ePdP5orA_ll8A9go6iG8Rdd7zAn5FY1BLB99dUA7A/s640/blogger-image--1474091599.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJopUef3Hcay6OsuQ-GLvtDVeAuoFOzuA7EkLiTmhkOiH1c2sIHiOf1m5JkCPtwhMX87pwJg2BLNpEP6Q73xLN_JjnXJpJ2ePdP5orA_ll8A9go6iG8Rdd7zAn5FY1BLB99dUA7A/s640/blogger-image--1474091599.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
</div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Ascending the concrete tracks it was notable that black obsidian was frequently embedded in the surface, a clear sign of the volcanic heritage of Lipari.<br />As the afternoon drew on I was conscious of a strengthening wind, yet why was I was getting even hotter? Ah, it's the scirocco, the hot wind straight from the Sahara, which periodically affects the Meditteranean countries. And, dropping down to Lipari, the sea was certainly getting more lively, a sign of more turbulent conditions that then prevailed overnight. My little reward for the effort of the day? An excellent lemon ice cream enjoyed in the cosy Marina Corta, near my little hotel, the attentive Rocce Azzurro, right next to the sea. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-i5RuFNh4Z-aXVz1rDrJxVb0uVRa06-4Bc7qntUPDicrL0x2VoYDHax4BWqD9Xn3H2G1FoKEixswi5weMJ1W9LggrWsWD1e4j4iRc6pTtbQmQhyLfZsBTq9jcUT0ptZNEdmED6w/s640/blogger-image-64621037.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-i5RuFNh4Z-aXVz1rDrJxVb0uVRa06-4Bc7qntUPDicrL0x2VoYDHax4BWqD9Xn3H2G1FoKEixswi5weMJ1W9LggrWsWD1e4j4iRc6pTtbQmQhyLfZsBTq9jcUT0ptZNEdmED6w/s640/blogger-image-64621037.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Cathedral in Lipari</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAFCsfmGKrP9SNAuhsHmygOfsJdzx6lCN1R1PGKYEPQ88QRdxfcmT2rfqibHp5pQf7CnOWPFRFYwSAqqM-wzy7Z4QizInoUdssorQn2dmc1dcaEFte-WFt96l5oJ5BgeQaDgusYw/s640/blogger-image--459950598.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAFCsfmGKrP9SNAuhsHmygOfsJdzx6lCN1R1PGKYEPQ88QRdxfcmT2rfqibHp5pQf7CnOWPFRFYwSAqqM-wzy7Z4QizInoUdssorQn2dmc1dcaEFte-WFt96l5oJ5BgeQaDgusYw/s640/blogger-image--459950598.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Self indulgence in Marina Corta!</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">As many times before, I'm travelling with Headwater, the holiday company who always seem to choose characterful, often family run, hotels as a base for some great walking and cycling routes.<br />The following day, cloudy with a cool breeze, took me on a ten minute hydrofoil ride to the small island of Vulcano, completely dominated by the volcanic cone with fumeroles on the periphery venting sulphurous gases. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfvn69znHY3H6bZIBj_BoHrUMpGRPeHpuBcMUAkUL9qlzLanC30cjlGFlPAZfVSekcErXMG1WA31Jwtf17InF5JJkFVcLmflsMRedi3Pju2n9Tq2pjbnlAIQUwZ2WhCuoP7TTb9Q/s640/blogger-image-618757823.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfvn69znHY3H6bZIBj_BoHrUMpGRPeHpuBcMUAkUL9qlzLanC30cjlGFlPAZfVSekcErXMG1WA31Jwtf17InF5JJkFVcLmflsMRedi3Pju2n9Tq2pjbnlAIQUwZ2WhCuoP7TTb9Q/s640/blogger-image-618757823.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small; text-align: left;">Gran Cratere della Fossa, from the harbour in Vulcano</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">The ascent was straightforward, on a wide track of coarse ash, then compacted volcanic soil, then rockier towards the crater rim. A climb of about 350m, despatched in 50 minutes, although the intended clockwise circuit was compromised by excessive fumerole emissions, which yours truly wisely avoided by going anticlockwise to the summit at 394m. Good views into the crater, and hazy views back to Lipari and neighbouring islands. An easy excursion, barely deserving a beer, but I rewarded myself anyway.<br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaYKHqJE5dUiqm4JkYcv-1wr8a-Inl1tSqlSpTmOCpccBVgXfmmyCMHyDOm7w1IU8csaLMwO9tJ2U4aQe-0ZgjrhuVB2KZZgEfS_6sRItzf51xK0O6ArzKp3g04mYbH83NH9qAPA/s640/blogger-image-438715546.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaYKHqJE5dUiqm4JkYcv-1wr8a-Inl1tSqlSpTmOCpccBVgXfmmyCMHyDOm7w1IU8csaLMwO9tJ2U4aQe-0ZgjrhuVB2KZZgEfS_6sRItzf51xK0O6ArzKp3g04mYbH83NH9qAPA/s640/blogger-image-438715546.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvSz1vwH9CuLqyP8qT_0f9llvtGaUoXJROAuzUuI1N4A5n3mN-ydo7qDMAQYGkfSYFub3d1yonodJ7RGiS5dnK-DemyVtoWx_NiBPGD91caCcH_Fn93SxIfyBD5XqEKLrefGQxRg/s640/blogger-image--1493675643.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvSz1vwH9CuLqyP8qT_0f9llvtGaUoXJROAuzUuI1N4A5n3mN-ydo7qDMAQYGkfSYFub3d1yonodJ7RGiS5dnK-DemyVtoWx_NiBPGD91caCcH_Fn93SxIfyBD5XqEKLrefGQxRg/s640/blogger-image--1493675643.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWKiCAv6XkdpQjhNEbUsFYp0hrRuc7CpQqaB6_aXqAH4GvZv-FBSGGi1ic0QF19epq4dKJV3Www4lfXQ47OCUXQDGD_Mbkdrq8G-g1nyFdywSYwAkxBBoKMQ5JQyxCej2F3hc-8A/s640/blogger-image-609089414.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWKiCAv6XkdpQjhNEbUsFYp0hrRuc7CpQqaB6_aXqAH4GvZv-FBSGGi1ic0QF19epq4dKJV3Www4lfXQ47OCUXQDGD_Mbkdrq8G-g1nyFdywSYwAkxBBoKMQ5JQyxCej2F3hc-8A/s640/blogger-image-609089414.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small; text-align: left;">Views from the crater rim, Vulcano </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">After a rest day in Lipari, finishing the excellent book <i>The Leopard</i> by </span><span dir="auto" style="background-color: rgba(255 , 255 , 255 , 0); font-family: "helvetica neue light" , , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;">Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, </span><span style="background-color: rgba(255 , 255 , 255 , 0); font-family: "helvetica neue light" , , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;">a story of the demise of Sicilian nobility following the Italian unification movement which started in the mid 18th century, it was time to hop on another hydrofoil, this time to the northernmost of the Aolian Islands, Stromboli.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Somewhat alarmingly, the boat first headed south, so I assumed I had boarded the wrong one, but after picking up passengers in Vulcano, it then headed for the island of Salina, passing Lipari once again and affording views to the village of Cannetto, formerly a centre for the extraction and export of high quality pumice, used commercially as a polisher. Salina boasts two extinct craters, and is good for the cultivation of vines and capers. Next, we stopped on the smaller island of Panarea, which has a Bronze Age (13-14th century BCE) village on the southern tip, and some active fumaroles. About 90 minutes after setting off we reached Stromboli, it's famous volcanic peak rearing sharply upwards and one of Europe's few active volcanoes. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjapfjIfwP8MTvmOHs8Bhkw_FJnZVBMtcVVqcTau639ypbXzjmR_hoTXEvjCsfKA_0sRpeoysWj0CP7VNeIDO0OlBehjPm8RI__OruroI7cm7pgXWmpgH2RdOGiyMBFxFiUWIrmCg/s640/blogger-image-2000585250.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjapfjIfwP8MTvmOHs8Bhkw_FJnZVBMtcVVqcTau639ypbXzjmR_hoTXEvjCsfKA_0sRpeoysWj0CP7VNeIDO0OlBehjPm8RI__OruroI7cm7pgXWmpgH2RdOGiyMBFxFiUWIrmCg/s640/blogger-image-2000585250.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">The name Stromboli is derived from the Greek "strombos", meaning 'conical'. The summit, at 924m, is an extinct cone, and today there are three active craters on the northern slopes. The last major eruption was in 1930, and today the mountain is closely monitored and the town streets are festooned with signs pointing out tsunami escape routes and assembly points. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQR5cktbE7sIHlJTUCd6Hxo_NtWVcmm7imMiq2qyAjR7tdnbuuMpZh-GgZOXd1aSZhVbQLru44G9pFuSF5VIEwotrmngyOBBkgAUWlfF8aXQk_QjDLzGS86y5yR0cBG9ywrLz3XQ/s640/blogger-image--746398420.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQR5cktbE7sIHlJTUCd6Hxo_NtWVcmm7imMiq2qyAjR7tdnbuuMpZh-GgZOXd1aSZhVbQLru44G9pFuSF5VIEwotrmngyOBBkgAUWlfF8aXQk_QjDLzGS86y5yR0cBG9ywrLz3XQ/s640/blogger-image--746398420.jpg" /></a></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">I walked one of the popular volcano circuits to view the regular eruptions of the lowest of the active vents (it erupts, quite explosively and noisily, about every 20 minutes). This is the Sciara del Fuoco, the 'road of fire', which climbs through dense vegetation on a good path to a helipad at 425m, beyond which access is only permitted with a guide. It's quite a spectacle and worth the effort, with an easy descent route back to the village of Stromboli via a paved mule track originally built for the filming of the '50s film 'Stromboli, Terra di Dio', starring Ingrid Bergmann.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9WK8N6stIj_zwGKE4vsEd59NdnKA3jDDz-kxTLS_MJFrVb35Qz9SXytHo36hPX2fzKN_orubnCvV60-7OJcHhX1W2Ykt-lve9OMsFOaEtTyKtCZdyu2OEuhklpsoG9m-QthSJwA/s640/blogger-image-596428499.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9WK8N6stIj_zwGKE4vsEd59NdnKA3jDDz-kxTLS_MJFrVb35Qz9SXytHo36hPX2fzKN_orubnCvV60-7OJcHhX1W2Ykt-lve9OMsFOaEtTyKtCZdyu2OEuhklpsoG9m-QthSJwA/s640/blogger-image-596428499.jpg" /></a></span></div>
</div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqA_PcSlPCMXriKWni9Rd8bf0zqKgvQUsJCNh3G6AANYYYRfoppxr-LjYxIZWhl6IhjWzE4aqeUqhY5SZ2N7dEcphj8owTv5DaqSCKrQkRcVfx9fMB5WQfPxyPcE-aKDCiGGZvsw/s640/blogger-image-1159262164.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqA_PcSlPCMXriKWni9Rd8bf0zqKgvQUsJCNh3G6AANYYYRfoppxr-LjYxIZWhl6IhjWzE4aqeUqhY5SZ2N7dEcphj8owTv5DaqSCKrQkRcVfx9fMB5WQfPxyPcE-aKDCiGGZvsw/s640/blogger-image-1159262164.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDV8KA_x8jL5pZjPeHaYi200oOMQ2yinX0f4eedbDa7rqFz9FaS1uM3gzAMjts5g6Rn-zXZncqaaqxjrcz8aKaESsaybvp6hrDdadOnUoyMy5sFn08V39bCRL4q7n7suewtYLMQg/s640/blogger-image--815699214.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDV8KA_x8jL5pZjPeHaYi200oOMQ2yinX0f4eedbDa7rqFz9FaS1uM3gzAMjts5g6Rn-zXZncqaaqxjrcz8aKaESsaybvp6hrDdadOnUoyMy5sFn08V39bCRL4q7n7suewtYLMQg/s640/blogger-image--815699214.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
</div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">But the highlight of my stay was the evening walk to the secondary summit, at 900m, to look down into the three active craters and enjoy the spectacle of one of the best natural firework displays in the world. And it didn't disappoint. The lower crater was most active, the other two mainly emitting great clouds of steam and gas. But as soon as darkness fell, you could see the tremendous lava explosions happening almost continuously in both of them. The climb takes about two hours, and our guided group had about an hour on the summit, albeit very cold due to a strong wind. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">The ascent is relatively easy, although involves a sustained climb, crossing black lava sand and following a path up through some rockier sections. The summit ridge was gained just as the sun was setting. Awesome.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMBm-OGg6-SNzki5kUcwkWQ2QTYYtahMcNLQia3HkIvSOaxAA05yJs7p7zHLEPgssKKr2hFYTByp49-2TZHcWEiGg2sb57SD5yigmLOYrpf2LrM_bs4R0bFGujUL_p5hW1taxR_g/s640/blogger-image--910530916.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMBm-OGg6-SNzki5kUcwkWQ2QTYYtahMcNLQia3HkIvSOaxAA05yJs7p7zHLEPgssKKr2hFYTByp49-2TZHcWEiGg2sb57SD5yigmLOYrpf2LrM_bs4R0bFGujUL_p5hW1taxR_g/s640/blogger-image--910530916.jpg" /></a></span></div>
</div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSTh_imevIbqt7Dn56CxxAiIwrf6tP1BlK0KmYJuuYbkY8tAEBDhaBD8f8tSziwnp2FO63OFNeoFPTDXeT3NWM6M9ieNLQlv16uE9vCcPSHs_gnER7lSjTm12F-QkFZkyfzrJKbA/s640/blogger-image--298066877.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSTh_imevIbqt7Dn56CxxAiIwrf6tP1BlK0KmYJuuYbkY8tAEBDhaBD8f8tSziwnp2FO63OFNeoFPTDXeT3NWM6M9ieNLQlv16uE9vCcPSHs_gnER7lSjTm12F-QkFZkyfzrJKbA/s640/blogger-image--298066877.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdbGDIEaBt7GwO6xHqtFG_coeYGLbY-BZIP5prsXunjFbZ9lK0v8py-QZn0uCcfATukzf_IZLyD5rjtOLSCf8rz3xl1QFk_q7fGiedpRqRFAPvNmeayqyNdKhhwGVzV9oPHCsinA/s640/blogger-image-1181141141.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdbGDIEaBt7GwO6xHqtFG_coeYGLbY-BZIP5prsXunjFbZ9lK0v8py-QZn0uCcfATukzf_IZLyD5rjtOLSCf8rz3xl1QFk_q7fGiedpRqRFAPvNmeayqyNdKhhwGVzV9oPHCsinA/s640/blogger-image-1181141141.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAk6IHJpH29xKzqu4XyNf6FZRQ7MslA_UqFcmey1IFxrpBfulbzlYG2DxlOI_sZYFaSJEcWUdez1cDUoQs3MyvX-IvyYsrySKck-_tTkHE_RccximDdcb1LQYeUznefL4vX2rPeA/s640/blogger-image-845902596.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAk6IHJpH29xKzqu4XyNf6FZRQ7MslA_UqFcmey1IFxrpBfulbzlYG2DxlOI_sZYFaSJEcWUdez1cDUoQs3MyvX-IvyYsrySKck-_tTkHE_RccximDdcb1LQYeUznefL4vX2rPeA/s640/blogger-image-845902596.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5oDALLzACmQWPcEVGFim1NSycOVbcjoTUc29cbbd5SI9cjyHyyKGvDWhbJ00EFB1_S4tAm0NGIZZ0__IMnPBFUNf9lcWJmjZTCm35WAdUU9VCBvBZxQ8RTOZnwmXmMCLKQPqxFQ/s640/blogger-image-1347117049.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5oDALLzACmQWPcEVGFim1NSycOVbcjoTUc29cbbd5SI9cjyHyyKGvDWhbJ00EFB1_S4tAm0NGIZZ0__IMnPBFUNf9lcWJmjZTCm35WAdUU9VCBvBZxQ8RTOZnwmXmMCLKQPqxFQ/s640/blogger-image-1347117049.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLn-uapZvHq93OOnCwBIZY3aQx71nPFM0kFaUalbYG5V16HzpUb2KJl7JegInC_GQQRipJI5uHjHqJINEzSleyaHR8C30rZjNBfNbR0b9hJ8bkfkTDb3zXynwSkMmRL57Wu1WfvQ/s640/blogger-image--1422359506.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLn-uapZvHq93OOnCwBIZY3aQx71nPFM0kFaUalbYG5V16HzpUb2KJl7JegInC_GQQRipJI5uHjHqJINEzSleyaHR8C30rZjNBfNbR0b9hJ8bkfkTDb3zXynwSkMmRL57Wu1WfvQ/s640/blogger-image--1422359506.jpg" /></a></span></div>
</div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj87f2S1Sd9PdbSHZr9wJuvWmjvD9eG0OuUuhe1zF2FOxD5HzoWdaeFrlJEi59t5nIEXwZM_TahAoCJYqx6naO15v0Lw23Lko6wE6sEZy2eH3oLJxYOIgXQ8ScKcNmAMGPcpHFA8w/s640/blogger-image-591587697.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj87f2S1Sd9PdbSHZr9wJuvWmjvD9eG0OuUuhe1zF2FOxD5HzoWdaeFrlJEi59t5nIEXwZM_TahAoCJYqx6naO15v0Lw23Lko6wE6sEZy2eH3oLJxYOIgXQ8ScKcNmAMGPcpHFA8w/s640/blogger-image-591587697.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtcXSQiVveCwY_KRRIaDBDVRKbGl29bV8vl21hcfY0tjY7Hb-6gPCumCVwl4J6ipOwRQcwCKBTJtYTG-VAu_y5TROhxMOiMXh8IkLUTVJvGYZmFD2hakV7VakVrhbTFheMVJg3Gw/s640/blogger-image-200917953.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtcXSQiVveCwY_KRRIaDBDVRKbGl29bV8vl21hcfY0tjY7Hb-6gPCumCVwl4J6ipOwRQcwCKBTJtYTG-VAu_y5TROhxMOiMXh8IkLUTVJvGYZmFD2hakV7VakVrhbTFheMVJg3Gw/s640/blogger-image-200917953.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihK90QcVP02bRWvE-8vQFJcyFfBuGe1wQJ4DIwxKHXUYj_vvjBjoK55VmLf44RJzmlKeMkJ4wQlAAzM6id3ozt4aeOePeMNN4Ja0D0nGwOpsBzZm_bp9YTIkBvcwuN64NDwwUHUQ/s640/blogger-image--1951352024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihK90QcVP02bRWvE-8vQFJcyFfBuGe1wQJ4DIwxKHXUYj_vvjBjoK55VmLf44RJzmlKeMkJ4wQlAAzM6id3ozt4aeOePeMNN4Ja0D0nGwOpsBzZm_bp9YTIkBvcwuN64NDwwUHUQ/s640/blogger-image--1951352024.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYUky7Qd99Y0mgJl07Y9Vgkw_12Pv4Xak3sdrlKKXcDR_zwnv2uGV9xrs7lDGXhbPtkfSAVDEAQhS5woCHfX0K41GRKbZJqsGf6V_OkMYqSkkzyaxmxoRaKYRSgcenW4p1RP_gVw/s640/blogger-image-1920503133.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYUky7Qd99Y0mgJl07Y9Vgkw_12Pv4Xak3sdrlKKXcDR_zwnv2uGV9xrs7lDGXhbPtkfSAVDEAQhS5woCHfX0K41GRKbZJqsGf6V_OkMYqSkkzyaxmxoRaKYRSgcenW4p1RP_gVw/s640/blogger-image-1920503133.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">The return journey takes a different route, leaving the summit directly southwards, and almost immediately you are walking on deep black sand, acting like a brake on your descent and making the relatively steep ground easy to descend. It's always surreal being on a mountain at night, and this evening was no exception. On the descent, our group quietly concentrated on foot placement assisted by head torches, leaving the black bulk of Stromboli behind us, a clear sky above revealing its constellations, boats moored far below us sporting their tell tale starboard and port lights, and the lights of Calabria and Sicily twinkling in the far distance. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">We dropped about 450m in less than an hour, eventually getting back to the village by about 2200. Just in time for a celebratory beer and pizza. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">It was an early start the following morning, the day showing all the signs of being warm and sunny, and the 0715 Siremar hydrofoil whisked me back to Milazzo, the Sicilian port just north of Messina, en route to my next destination, the historic town of Taormina. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvpbcju5SXKfkLeWMA7vE68VacOfKytyZi4McLbrRSjfT5ktlor2ueT3sP3cMkyCIIdxf_of288OyfmMaw30RvcgcUfK2Z5P7zn1AiogBv870s8-AiCUFabS4yLfmXpedpqra9aA/s640/blogger-image--136215399.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvpbcju5SXKfkLeWMA7vE68VacOfKytyZi4McLbrRSjfT5ktlor2ueT3sP3cMkyCIIdxf_of288OyfmMaw30RvcgcUfK2Z5P7zn1AiogBv870s8-AiCUFabS4yLfmXpedpqra9aA/s640/blogger-image--136215399.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Hydrofoil ferry for the Aolian Islands</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS28GUL8DneUikRw0RVUW_LyAcvTQY2b5ne08h7dq3RR9SmpjmPJEGTRbIurtf3v9G4aQz52DprOoEBQJ109Be2VMlCi_wQ7_8VGny0AJKMKtbc8tss4ppSUuRTpTjSXgtK6yeiQ/s640/blogger-image--279484910.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS28GUL8DneUikRw0RVUW_LyAcvTQY2b5ne08h7dq3RR9SmpjmPJEGTRbIurtf3v9G4aQz52DprOoEBQJ109Be2VMlCi_wQ7_8VGny0AJKMKtbc8tss4ppSUuRTpTjSXgtK6yeiQ/s640/blogger-image--279484910.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib0582X6JYzWOd8i3Jg2Epkkel4CDwJAC_GVY1BEpHSV50HQE8qwvNd1NiOAkEdtMZM7X9vfRy6duH5t1vWHgpS1IC4e8hSJHA3tWRSE-8HSTEcunxoXaiyCgqN1uNRADFI0jSbA/s640/blogger-image-1567157490.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib0582X6JYzWOd8i3Jg2Epkkel4CDwJAC_GVY1BEpHSV50HQE8qwvNd1NiOAkEdtMZM7X9vfRy6duH5t1vWHgpS1IC4e8hSJHA3tWRSE-8HSTEcunxoXaiyCgqN1uNRADFI0jSbA/s640/blogger-image-1567157490.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small; text-align: left;">Snow-capped Mount Etna from Taormina, access above 2500m closed due to current volcanic activity levels</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Taormina is a joy to visit. My accommodation, the Hotel del Corso, adjacent to the western gateway to the town, the Porta Catania, is actually located on the principal street, Corso Umberto I, which, even in early season was thronged with visitors (mainly Brits and Germans) as I arrived. </span></span></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">With the sun shining, an early lunch preceded a walk through this attractive town, established in the 3rd century BCE, and variously settled by the Greeks, Romans, Arabs and Normans. The Roman period dominates the town's architecture and infrastructure, although there are the remains of a large Greek theatre (albeit heavily remodelled by the Romans in the first century CE), just to the east of the town centre.</span></span></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">My walk took me steeply up to Castelmola, a village which functioned as a protective fortress over Taormina, and affords excellent views over the coast north and south of the town, and down to a ruined Saracen castle and nearby Santurio Madonna Rocca. A superb panoramic path from Castelmola's duomo brought me swiftly back into town, with great views to the coast and to Etna. A good day!</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJXiVUDXX59rQnVi3cxu_BfyoeFr9MVpNulHNxri5PfDQsasBItr8JxGfhaRt6c1zYGgJGK6FyXPd-fodtJTShhot7e2srk97-Zr3WD4FOZYFdMvBljxVXj5WS0LDQ-UF2lW6AKw/s640/blogger-image--1590884684.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJXiVUDXX59rQnVi3cxu_BfyoeFr9MVpNulHNxri5PfDQsasBItr8JxGfhaRt6c1zYGgJGK6FyXPd-fodtJTShhot7e2srk97-Zr3WD4FOZYFdMvBljxVXj5WS0LDQ-UF2lW6AKw/s640/blogger-image--1590884684.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="text-align: left;">Lunch at the splendid </span><i style="text-align: left;">Rosso Peperoncino</i><span style="text-align: left;"> in Taormina</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuJnt1K-BeGLBKFCKmTWVdEhU-CfUAzcZg-K_yKa2yVNWgSEeamFnohHcqRle7Qd-X-LxzB3nrod9-XVDdqXtwi6qxLXV0CZ1sT4cJgtTwfJaWEU33GHJEEc83sg84TDMlHrosHQ/s640/blogger-image-2007316376.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuJnt1K-BeGLBKFCKmTWVdEhU-CfUAzcZg-K_yKa2yVNWgSEeamFnohHcqRle7Qd-X-LxzB3nrod9-XVDdqXtwi6qxLXV0CZ1sT4cJgtTwfJaWEU33GHJEEc83sg84TDMlHrosHQ/s640/blogger-image-2007316376.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small; text-align: left;">Chiesa di San Giussepe, from Piazza IX Aprile, Taormina</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinLlPKvt5TNByZz0kJG-gCN8slMn_P41cgNru3IIJvIRophiNNINffz3CsijKflYN8dDcs0xaHzwIhrQ9TTm7uMfUYHYTScobzPL-QAJHnZAkzMvCFO2xiTdX4dRtc4wN0N4szwg/s640/blogger-image-1029261903.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinLlPKvt5TNByZz0kJG-gCN8slMn_P41cgNru3IIJvIRophiNNINffz3CsijKflYN8dDcs0xaHzwIhrQ9TTm7uMfUYHYTScobzPL-QAJHnZAkzMvCFO2xiTdX4dRtc4wN0N4szwg/s640/blogger-image-1029261903.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Etna above Taormina</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj24KoLyVLXi2TvbQuvX-TCHmra7vy-4wvafO0ztfDshP5lL05bsw7QUvUKFMLex466WpNkUwtN-9BVOGltfctEipBUN4KNW0aHMvHukaFBmLf3VTpa92CdViaO4-7C7RJCjgsIEQ/s640/blogger-image--725953701.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj24KoLyVLXi2TvbQuvX-TCHmra7vy-4wvafO0ztfDshP5lL05bsw7QUvUKFMLex466WpNkUwtN-9BVOGltfctEipBUN4KNW0aHMvHukaFBmLf3VTpa92CdViaO4-7C7RJCjgsIEQ/s640/blogger-image--725953701.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small; text-align: left;">Saracen castle above Taormina</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4Kh7yUgbQQlnaZ-JNZthfjViE-lqxEZCadMY06kUYmDkKivvghqMHw0ZSG6I84HTxdA9scPug2yTtAuag8PQrdE5dQC2lz-M4cYIUaBL1cpt2Zg_kbrYOIS8mvGuZQhRWTTqeAQ/s640/blogger-image--2067127513.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4Kh7yUgbQQlnaZ-JNZthfjViE-lqxEZCadMY06kUYmDkKivvghqMHw0ZSG6I84HTxdA9scPug2yTtAuag8PQrdE5dQC2lz-M4cYIUaBL1cpt2Zg_kbrYOIS8mvGuZQhRWTTqeAQ/s640/blogger-image--2067127513.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small; text-align: left;">Duomo in Castelmola</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjocDh-Pcc0DpGUFTrKHn_Uc2Yoh6FW5F9uZLLgEzlpFCB3J2W4-SjwfQe0PO-ia-NK5B9Fufx_Ii92UmwWP0zgIwRHb_tgkrhTJquCMb1LndafECJhCZAt14aJtbMalGGvRS3ITA/s640/blogger-image-1493799084.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjocDh-Pcc0DpGUFTrKHn_Uc2Yoh6FW5F9uZLLgEzlpFCB3J2W4-SjwfQe0PO-ia-NK5B9Fufx_Ii92UmwWP0zgIwRHb_tgkrhTJquCMb1LndafECJhCZAt14aJtbMalGGvRS3ITA/s640/blogger-image-1493799084.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small; text-align: left;">Taormina</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPVsLXkn_k_VaOzMuSiKHcuMJxnGevgSok549MYFohmi0RT45zIlB8-DmbfAgFfvcjDIfd990D41tBMpgfjpuTpxXva7h0idWzDfjCO4u1nGLEuwq-Q4HL2OrPeXE_8iZfFo-H0g/s640/blogger-image-1676454911.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPVsLXkn_k_VaOzMuSiKHcuMJxnGevgSok549MYFohmi0RT45zIlB8-DmbfAgFfvcjDIfd990D41tBMpgfjpuTpxXva7h0idWzDfjCO4u1nGLEuwq-Q4HL2OrPeXE_8iZfFo-H0g/s640/blogger-image-1676454911.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small; text-align: left;">Distant views to Etna</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMBC-FFSO3_Ely7kx4T4JssJ_AiNv8h6QhTlap4JyZ0q81TcToXpt7ZGN4qlOjintshj7pGWagJRkNjgGZmWEs7zOp_Xs8gXGCL63mcbtdw22-z3In7YK4QB4gcGrvJfVTn13f_A/s640/blogger-image-1912067766.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMBC-FFSO3_Ely7kx4T4JssJ_AiNv8h6QhTlap4JyZ0q81TcToXpt7ZGN4qlOjintshj7pGWagJRkNjgGZmWEs7zOp_Xs8gXGCL63mcbtdw22-z3In7YK4QB4gcGrvJfVTn13f_A/s640/blogger-image-1912067766.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small; text-align: left;">Snow clad Mount Etna 3,300m</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">The final day on Sicily. An early morning walk, a climb of about 200m to the Santuario Madonna Rocca and the castle just above it. Already warm by 0800, this was certainly the time to get up the steps to this fine viewpoint. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTp6Te1MywY5aa60-lgg4R6YAylQmtVyiIJlJnP35BrlNEyDmyOFVHukqpi_aT5BHavKJdyTEsUHRPyJukXa0-MC7LraFun5tyCAkkmO-4X10CQu0MrabvgfRt4c2ezzhBfbQEMg/s640/blogger-image-1813724053.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTp6Te1MywY5aa60-lgg4R6YAylQmtVyiIJlJnP35BrlNEyDmyOFVHukqpi_aT5BHavKJdyTEsUHRPyJukXa0-MC7LraFun5tyCAkkmO-4X10CQu0MrabvgfRt4c2ezzhBfbQEMg/s640/blogger-image-1813724053.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small; text-align: left;">Views from Santuario Madonna Rocca</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuckXEC6dD34paHn2tCiU8KXSmuM1PbbrxlG39tJec8qrSiqxr3y_ljPXbyyPgkxwHF9MINhOw4A11FZ_ADAzgvQlil78EXomiotIcNFLqzC9x91imyep129au9NZfmZ62VxroBg/s640/blogger-image--727245349.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuckXEC6dD34paHn2tCiU8KXSmuM1PbbrxlG39tJec8qrSiqxr3y_ljPXbyyPgkxwHF9MINhOw4A11FZ_ADAzgvQlil78EXomiotIcNFLqzC9x91imyep129au9NZfmZ62VxroBg/s640/blogger-image--727245349.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Later I walked through the town and down 300 steps to the beach near Isola Bella, followed by a quick look at the sizeable Teatro Antico, a splendid Greek/Roman amphitheatre accessed via the touristy Piazza Vittorio Emanuele. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCFHp-kO835mbh33QcMcMSy8S1UtOL2n_QABOsPA4cNmwJoKJ-LtKNlgnPDYO_7pPzOkBeBUGBVYM1XVg3za_D6V5qwN-n4gGbmpThJkpCkgOdYOH8lgxYhJD4og40HVrtcOBinQ/s640/blogger-image--1309684541.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCFHp-kO835mbh33QcMcMSy8S1UtOL2n_QABOsPA4cNmwJoKJ-LtKNlgnPDYO_7pPzOkBeBUGBVYM1XVg3za_D6V5qwN-n4gGbmpThJkpCkgOdYOH8lgxYhJD4og40HVrtcOBinQ/s640/blogger-image--1309684541.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small; text-align: left;">View down to Capo Sant' Andrea and Isola Bella</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZAxM6kQl9bBfPWIE1ONF0LVPOdvJZHUgHmfAyCcziCsobRqgfFskiBAbXIiZaz-gtSHlIIQTTnfLc65yCeaLXBxLBMA2Rw7PF_Z4MvYwuL-JJncs7q0apivmWLngnCncZlOD2wA/s640/blogger-image-609200356.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZAxM6kQl9bBfPWIE1ONF0LVPOdvJZHUgHmfAyCcziCsobRqgfFskiBAbXIiZaz-gtSHlIIQTTnfLc65yCeaLXBxLBMA2Rw7PF_Z4MvYwuL-JJncs7q0apivmWLngnCncZlOD2wA/s640/blogger-image-609200356.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small; text-align: left;">Teatro Antico, Taormina</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"></span></div>
A lazy afternoon and outstanding dinner at Trattoria Da Nino (Via Luigi Pirandello, just down the road from the top cable car station, on the right) prepared me nicely for the homeward journey the following morning, courtesy of EasyJet.</div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><b>Summary</b></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
Well, you know you're on Italian soil when the young guys leave their girlfriends waiting whilst they look in men's clothes shop windows, or is it that they're checking their own reflection?!</div>
<div>
Sicily, still a proud island race, and the macho culture prevails. On the Islands fishermen wiled away the hours in bars playing cards and drinking grappa; in the towns they strut, talking volubly, and one thinks of Mafiosi on every corner, not that's the case nowadays...there's not enough money to be made here away from the mainland.</div>
<div>
But the food is great, if expensive in the tourist honeypots, fresh fish and local vegetables abound...I've even learnt to like capers. And the scenery and townscapes are magnificent. Early season the climate is a bit fickle, but when the sun shines it's mellowed by cool breezes, and the tourist spots aren't too manic. But I'd avoid high season in places like Stromboli and Taormina: very popular with Italians, Brits and Germans, these beautiful spots would have far too many people swooning over the sights for my personal taste.</div>
<div>
However, I'll be back! Many more walks to do on both Sicily and the Aolian Islands, and the local wine isn't bad either.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9888425.post-1403568276359601402014-03-13T03:04:00.001+00:002014-03-30T00:16:14.703+00:00India - 2014<div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Well, here we are again. </div></span></div><div>India, fast becoming a favourite destination of mine, and this time accompanied by four lady friends who are joining me on a visit to the SRSG ashram in Rishikesh followed by a visit to the epicentre of India's spirituality, Varanasi. The visit will conclude with an exploration of the Buddhist pilgrimage sites of Sanchi, Ellora and Ajanta, located in Madhyar Pradesh and Maharashtra.</div><div>Delhi continues to both amaze and exhaust. Air quality here has dramatically improved over the last ten years, assisted by the development of the city's Metro system, an insistence on the use of LPG in many classes of vehicles, and a daytime ban on trucks within the city limits. The most visible pollution these days is litter, and then there is the noise, the constant honking of car and truck horns - a tedious backdrop to the pulse of humanity in this huge city.</div><div>As some members of our group were new to India, we initiated them into the delights of Chandni Chowk, the old city of Delhi established by the Muslims and now choked with traders of every persuasion. Disembarking from our bicycle rickshaws we toured the wedding market, the bead market, the condensed milk market and the spice market, all within a walk of 15 minutes. Chaotic, fascinating and fun.</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3LyfMuyYM_M_oScKsEJ-h1RDdQIEoamfIOKLxZudGEFjR68_5Gn-8L5b_zBAgH5FWi7YsFoznw5GbUZOCr0cJclhpqDYIhrrLWOti5ATOXbgLBf4lry9__woYujSdo3hXxjeLwg/s640/blogger-image--2022368094.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3LyfMuyYM_M_oScKsEJ-h1RDdQIEoamfIOKLxZudGEFjR68_5Gn-8L5b_zBAgH5FWi7YsFoznw5GbUZOCr0cJclhpqDYIhrrLWOti5ATOXbgLBf4lry9__woYujSdo3hXxjeLwg/s640/blogger-image--2022368094.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNr-DMK6T-9GUfRK7M4Z5lBv77dJia-3EZkRoNvnYH7hEY18eIpTsVEuIO0xTJg6-Wd-bAIjAJdzZ6f7D4OLDuTJM1fCnYX_7qzbUUTM4vB31lUyrzaBnmughofQuXjo1C5Vt8CQ/s640/blogger-image--289372796.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNr-DMK6T-9GUfRK7M4Z5lBv77dJia-3EZkRoNvnYH7hEY18eIpTsVEuIO0xTJg6-Wd-bAIjAJdzZ6f7D4OLDuTJM1fCnYX_7qzbUUTM4vB31lUyrzaBnmughofQuXjo1C5Vt8CQ/s640/blogger-image--289372796.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDirdpVqNf7ULrNWQ4VLn30zSSpLni8yPeeCNozu4wPeCOVHDBvfNKGddaMIkakofsk_PEyed_0ImySqMlAuyzmlgavVtjm7mEdbU6qVh2S9xXkLRvC5VFWPI9-rQo0GjwqWp_SQ/s640/blogger-image--1752485512.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDirdpVqNf7ULrNWQ4VLn30zSSpLni8yPeeCNozu4wPeCOVHDBvfNKGddaMIkakofsk_PEyed_0ImySqMlAuyzmlgavVtjm7mEdbU6qVh2S9xXkLRvC5VFWPI9-rQo0GjwqWp_SQ/s640/blogger-image--1752485512.jpg"></a></div><br></div></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKWmOAGep_EhUMb_EfNSUNFMreEkn_rrk8CKKlZoTDCp8FD_Y6ohMy6OtTWtfAMZFQAA1ybTDtOnfyGciWbpOXodlH4GYuseH2QxBHVSYbHe5pyWLbWmGo68NpOJmB6qY3K0ODwQ/s640/blogger-image--1689383160.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKWmOAGep_EhUMb_EfNSUNFMreEkn_rrk8CKKlZoTDCp8FD_Y6ohMy6OtTWtfAMZFQAA1ybTDtOnfyGciWbpOXodlH4GYuseH2QxBHVSYbHe5pyWLbWmGo68NpOJmB6qY3K0ODwQ/s640/blogger-image--1689383160.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh55pQWqbzY9WXmBAQqE9wOvsNdCl-OkHwIDE0nLTD5lK28iTAUo5IPmUMtkOhKoQfhbr-mVQYhCW5yiIqtcxoiFwefFCilBtc6zXspnKtawIB-vvkzjKSSLUiGGgUxUDBf8LtRPw/s640/blogger-image--1659321658.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh55pQWqbzY9WXmBAQqE9wOvsNdCl-OkHwIDE0nLTD5lK28iTAUo5IPmUMtkOhKoQfhbr-mVQYhCW5yiIqtcxoiFwefFCilBtc6zXspnKtawIB-vvkzjKSSLUiGGgUxUDBf8LtRPw/s640/blogger-image--1659321658.jpg"></a></div></div><div><br></div><div>Next, a repeat visit to the Bangla Sahib Gurdwara, the imposing Sikh temple in central Delhi, once again enjoying the prayer recitation accompanied by accordion and tabla drums, and the spectacle of their communal Pangat, dispensing free food to all-comers. But time was against us, and with a cumulus filled sky threatening a deluge, we moved on to pay a quick visit to Birla House, the site where Mahatma Gandhi was assassinated, before a lunch at the competent but expensive 'Rendevous'.</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMrLu6MCGpg-PM18tUVni8Gm21CdhF9ru8p0-mg9R91o4_0BIxu3H8p-d_ntNmYgPLGFkTv4JMcD2YaUgZI5LvRn9uNjkabxNb-Ca_ZPAw6NJs_rd-YGFrfwNsusJL3w42cJfZHg/s640/blogger-image--1404348994.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMrLu6MCGpg-PM18tUVni8Gm21CdhF9ru8p0-mg9R91o4_0BIxu3H8p-d_ntNmYgPLGFkTv4JMcD2YaUgZI5LvRn9uNjkabxNb-Ca_ZPAw6NJs_rd-YGFrfwNsusJL3w42cJfZHg/s640/blogger-image--1404348994.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu44x1D7MUFnpH1Wgc2QpvoYxcK4Rlq_OcMIegl8g542Akz7Nm109ZnF6097nvx9_qsOxAEuWbdOJCsdM90on3axlOHrW3ZaENFXaaN5fV-u-qP_s_eq1HzI6xz8UaCbkTQrivHQ/s640/blogger-image-948951794.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu44x1D7MUFnpH1Wgc2QpvoYxcK4Rlq_OcMIegl8g542Akz7Nm109ZnF6097nvx9_qsOxAEuWbdOJCsdM90on3axlOHrW3ZaENFXaaN5fV-u-qP_s_eq1HzI6xz8UaCbkTQrivHQ/s640/blogger-image-948951794.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Refreshed with Prosecco and a Carlsberg (for moi), we headed into chronically congested roads of south eastern Delhi to reach the largest Hindu temple in the world, the Akshardam complex, housing a magnificent mandir, the approach buildings featuring beautifully crafted 'buff stone' and the mandir itself a combination of white and grey marble. A short visit cannot possibly do this new temple complex justice, but the rich tapestry of carvings is simply awe-inspiring. Note that no cameras are allowed inside, a combination of tight security and crowd management, otherwise I'd still be in there!</span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO6HTpr96pT9WT7JDNpb1sRsT9AWSoeNUJZMD1TeNVZFFU4V3-Daw_U90VejbSXX5eIYD9qeyPYIrsn2TPOhewn4xPAhB3L8IOcS_AJ0nuTuqXbQuv5dKzIzZMY4uVvZ0fURBx5Q/s640/blogger-image--1607370946.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO6HTpr96pT9WT7JDNpb1sRsT9AWSoeNUJZMD1TeNVZFFU4V3-Daw_U90VejbSXX5eIYD9qeyPYIrsn2TPOhewn4xPAhB3L8IOcS_AJ0nuTuqXbQuv5dKzIzZMY4uVvZ0fURBx5Q/s640/blogger-image--1607370946.jpg"></a></div><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Dinner and overnight in the Oberoi Maidens Hotel, the large white colonial building cosseting us after a full-on first day in India.</span></div><div><br></div><div>The second stage of our journey took us, in 'first class A/C', by train to Haridwar. I've learnt to love train travel and this was no exception, the journey giving an insight into the travails of the daily Indian routine, the bustling energy of the city and burgeoning satellite towns, and the slower, impoverished pace of rural life. Haridwar to the ashram, a journey of some 25km, took an hour, the usual chaos prevailing and inimitable Indian driving techniques to the fore. Think 'pull out to overtake a tuk tuk, face an oncoming truck hurtling towards you, pip your horn and pray...'</div><div><br></div><div>The ashram, wonderfully located in the foothills of the Himalaya in the state of Uttarakand, was bathed in hot sunshine on arrival, although much of the border planting and associated floral splendour was missing on this occasion as a cobra had been found nesting in one area. Memo to self: keep the front door of my bungalow shut! As I was accompanied this time by some first-timers to the ashram, our host, Silvia Barrata, showed us around and a tentative programme for the next ten days agreed. Some afternoon asana helped to stretch out tired limbs, but the evening lecture on meditation was a major challenge given our jet lag. </div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ8r0lThlrDXTQDND7qX46vP4xXbiEqmxJgGKwb4j9NRSiA_1EwdCdnMjd320McK7rNG0relBGWXtFLIaOwPUE4IAeHyFZCvMp_2JhBzrRJSiFWy7R4zr2xlwdaOb6ecEE5rXjRA/s640/blogger-image-1540894847.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ8r0lThlrDXTQDND7qX46vP4xXbiEqmxJgGKwb4j9NRSiA_1EwdCdnMjd320McK7rNG0relBGWXtFLIaOwPUE4IAeHyFZCvMp_2JhBzrRJSiFWy7R4zr2xlwdaOb6ecEE5rXjRA/s640/blogger-image-1540894847.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">The first full day here is a nominated 'day of silence' (except for our instructors), so a bit of a challenge there, albeit a good way to quickly join the flow of ashram life. The next week or so will have us studying the 'Himalayan' meditation method, with a strong focus on diaphragmatic breathing, asana, pranayama (breathing techniques) and teachings on the yoga philosophy. The ashram was originally established by Swami Rama, but is now in the hands of Swami Veda Bharati, who, incidentally, is on a five year 'silence' just now. It is the base of an organisation that operates worldwide, the Association of Himalayan Yoga Meditation Societies International, AHYMSIN. More on this can be found in my 'India 2011' blog entry.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidcvhBOYy08RnLhMGB4h1ZK3Ppcg-g2N5l8zwqgSl9rfxvaUXmjwObac51KBclI57oVtE9gOYJIAsw5fHMkuRCE9UsRR9PKhX9NZGgEmrmBIEm3eLjxYJ7zmTfQet08ttZCoTmiw/s640/blogger-image--1674817118.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidcvhBOYy08RnLhMGB4h1ZK3Ppcg-g2N5l8zwqgSl9rfxvaUXmjwObac51KBclI57oVtE9gOYJIAsw5fHMkuRCE9UsRR9PKhX9NZGgEmrmBIEm3eLjxYJ7zmTfQet08ttZCoTmiw/s640/blogger-image--1674817118.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIpMZVaUc3kfCR4A7QoQT4Zc5N1Kf_115rGa7AdC-bmzMLTBHcSTp3ckvNrwdvw6Rtgze8iBraqcjYJvtHIfFrzS3-1byHBFLHBFxYt7fCskbe92galarQH3mmE8haaU5F3fvkvg/s640/blogger-image-489982987.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIpMZVaUc3kfCR4A7QoQT4Zc5N1Kf_115rGa7AdC-bmzMLTBHcSTp3ckvNrwdvw6Rtgze8iBraqcjYJvtHIfFrzS3-1byHBFLHBFxYt7fCskbe92galarQH3mmE8haaU5F3fvkvg/s640/blogger-image-489982987.jpg"></a></div><br></div></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Our first day subsequently proved to be full-on, starting with the wake up bells at 0415 and prayers (in Sanskrit) before an intensive 'joints and glands' session which is great for warming and stretching every part of the body, followed by meditation even before you can think of breakfast! Classes took us through the benefits of meditation and how to sit properly for meditation, with the day ending with an intensive yoga asana session. A concert of Indian singing completed the day, although for me a swift retirement to my bungalow and Santana was the end of the day for me!</span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Our second full day started in the same way, except we walked some 45 minutes to reach the Sadhana Mandir, the first ashram established by Swami Rama, beautifully set next to the Ganges river amidst carefully tended gardens. Here we had a guided meditation session followed by breakfast. A nice way to start the day. Lectures on the 'Science of Breathing' followed, reminding me, once again, just how much more there is to learn on the philosophy and practice of yoga.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihiqw2W7YTWJsODvQOFj_KqiaDXI2YCqF6mOM15N5p7nb9Jaw2cO-SXDlvlt7_ThTVfaLNepr3R3SJ2H3ywFoIXhZmEy9146qJj7MLG3vgDigqO-42icaLi7D7Ai7NlMu-MAUGXA/s640/blogger-image--1675221722.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihiqw2W7YTWJsODvQOFj_KqiaDXI2YCqF6mOM15N5p7nb9Jaw2cO-SXDlvlt7_ThTVfaLNepr3R3SJ2H3ywFoIXhZmEy9146qJj7MLG3vgDigqO-42icaLi7D7Ai7NlMu-MAUGXA/s640/blogger-image--1675221722.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9EVWmQLa9_Byez9NAo5vC3X5vl6b8PlMPjfZR4FM-twriaonCuwz17xu7mqNebDMDLU8heyy9mds0dbVweE2OKY-Bfve_nQmvyunBf7SCkSUimKkrW_fBlEzzE8OVOcs7aPIVsg/s640/blogger-image-658043604.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9EVWmQLa9_Byez9NAo5vC3X5vl6b8PlMPjfZR4FM-twriaonCuwz17xu7mqNebDMDLU8heyy9mds0dbVweE2OKY-Bfve_nQmvyunBf7SCkSUimKkrW_fBlEzzE8OVOcs7aPIVsg/s640/blogger-image-658043604.jpg"></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpsyjqO3hTGSMDrz69MbSzRT89D4kSmCgZIT6C47DIu2JyoVMlLLsB2H2bxkmtAkSGCUoaLXevvMGhxWds1quwfvR625yXtAvLHcbSaoGnO4hkxS6BAbg7zzGFNYiO75weho1W7g/s640/blogger-image--321136841.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpsyjqO3hTGSMDrz69MbSzRT89D4kSmCgZIT6C47DIu2JyoVMlLLsB2H2bxkmtAkSGCUoaLXevvMGhxWds1quwfvR625yXtAvLHcbSaoGnO4hkxS6BAbg7zzGFNYiO75weho1W7g/s640/blogger-image--321136841.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_4bHidOQJ0kvojc1gfAEjfMWynOL_XJLet4bCT1yM2p3dNhgr-48m_ocExCVlNvM1lN4-3cVF8lpTGVQGp4OZvK0klCaaZ_zTtgLaGf5YFgcFrELG_qbhq04pN8j_VV1nbPkhyphenhyphenQ/s640/blogger-image--1972053262.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_4bHidOQJ0kvojc1gfAEjfMWynOL_XJLet4bCT1yM2p3dNhgr-48m_ocExCVlNvM1lN4-3cVF8lpTGVQGp4OZvK0klCaaZ_zTtgLaGf5YFgcFrELG_qbhq04pN8j_VV1nbPkhyphenhyphenQ/s640/blogger-image--1972053262.jpg"></a></div><br></div>The day continued with instruction in contemplative walking (or how to take 45 minutes to walk less than 100m), extremely relaxing, and an evening class on the pronunciation of Sanskrit so that we can participate in the early morning and late evening prayers. A full day, and a good sleep followed!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Although a little early in our time at the ashram, we took a day out to visit nearby Rishikesh, as the celebration of the second most important Hindu festival after Diwali - Holi Day - over the two following days meant that it was inadvisable to leave the confines of the ashram, not least because you'd be splattered in paint and there's a lot of drunkeness on the streets. We had a great day, commencing in the German Bakery at the southern end of Lakshman Jhula, and time exploring the Kailas Nikitan temple which affords great views over the Ganges. And then there was the shopping! </div></span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Travelling with a number of lady companions meant that there were numerous diversions all day, with multiple visits to book and clothes shops, and even I was persuaded to invest in some traditional clothing, a white cotton kurta and accompanying churidar (a type of trouser): photos may follow! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">We enjoyed a good lunch of vegetable thali at the restaurant attached to the Madhuban Temple (an ISKCON ashram, followers of Hare Krishna). We paid a brief visit to the temple afterwards, with three musicians chanting 'Hare Krishna' accompanied by accordion and drum, each of us receiving a blessing from the priest here just as we went to leave.</div></span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir86tm6fCHokBxXYltqXLhi_pJO3s2eZC8zEptGoW646WsUZnp6nGvEIPoJlxuhhVmcZLqzTsdPLVYE5O4QGViLUPobKClMP8AorZWgkuWq49Tg7Uyb1j-MT59mIQ8KL5P8F8w1Q/s640/blogger-image-1895704410.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir86tm6fCHokBxXYltqXLhi_pJO3s2eZC8zEptGoW646WsUZnp6nGvEIPoJlxuhhVmcZLqzTsdPLVYE5O4QGViLUPobKClMP8AorZWgkuWq49Tg7Uyb1j-MT59mIQ8KL5P8F8w1Q/s640/blogger-image-1895704410.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7UgOodWpy2E_pRLQ-abEc7qcXsMH2JIDADSmZRPj7C0MyitQaZnSsqNCdIJP3lNP1RcScv3nUkeKTfGkLJf_k2Q1K6HNM6B7fiIAOcqWX9yec33XBpmBQeqMhXqU3eJ6LUUXNew/s640/blogger-image-2072740544.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7UgOodWpy2E_pRLQ-abEc7qcXsMH2JIDADSmZRPj7C0MyitQaZnSsqNCdIJP3lNP1RcScv3nUkeKTfGkLJf_k2Q1K6HNM6B7fiIAOcqWX9yec33XBpmBQeqMhXqU3eJ6LUUXNew/s640/blogger-image-2072740544.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNKncYXEMCeX_UK1i0yjCNrqrDElakLuvEI0Tt2w1JjW_CuOEbKJ8EBfWSoZVCKV6KBaLVRtiY2hgW-swpNwOv0Sr1jgx2-swySIzWcpobTQCwIII93X0WRNNk5ZgfRhEJHlHX4A/s640/blogger-image--250261795.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNKncYXEMCeX_UK1i0yjCNrqrDElakLuvEI0Tt2w1JjW_CuOEbKJ8EBfWSoZVCKV6KBaLVRtiY2hgW-swpNwOv0Sr1jgx2-swySIzWcpobTQCwIII93X0WRNNk5ZgfRhEJHlHX4A/s640/blogger-image--250261795.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRE9ub315xyodtUC4TKT5MDpigHZ9toYd2ElWZaVoAghRtZTbb9FD4eEppD7HtDIwyjsF41DCmDzWGoNiCOoWCWQ6A7gaaY7A2Mx6cQgpdkY9qeJURVJArrL196-pK0snMUBRcvA/s640/blogger-image--1047880085.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRE9ub315xyodtUC4TKT5MDpigHZ9toYd2ElWZaVoAghRtZTbb9FD4eEppD7HtDIwyjsF41DCmDzWGoNiCOoWCWQ6A7gaaY7A2Mx6cQgpdkY9qeJURVJArrL196-pK0snMUBRcvA/s640/blogger-image--1047880085.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2YaoQGH4rWUm3xVEhvrf7NHQX-RsuskOsX162zMFb3vLR7R5wf8VL6JDV6eMEAhamIV9W18XtqF3Eoq1BHUp2WRWWq2sHs3QnQhp9dPGfpW8KvWr7qjNp81CH347CEYa0wc3Okw/s640/blogger-image--1701024726.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2YaoQGH4rWUm3xVEhvrf7NHQX-RsuskOsX162zMFb3vLR7R5wf8VL6JDV6eMEAhamIV9W18XtqF3Eoq1BHUp2WRWWq2sHs3QnQhp9dPGfpW8KvWr7qjNp81CH347CEYa0wc3Okw/s640/blogger-image--1701024726.jpg"></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Onwards. Our final visit of the day was to the ghats at Ram Jhula, accessed by a motor boat across the Ganges. We watched the evening aarti, a ceremony held at dusk every evening to bless the Ganga, presided over by a prominent local Guru. Very colourful, music and song, and hugely atmospheric as the sun went down over the far river bank. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitKOZgFd_AH90D-y7xvzf9COcv99yWWF-QF5JrRZCSZSHKJOMwwPFaOauWPeEKdbU1LV6t6ADKdKK5yONo72pz-VyH2shBn7MVdNHNhS8-VdcJIXB3LqVWFQdmvmCZxrkCrb38Vg/s640/blogger-image-810832383.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitKOZgFd_AH90D-y7xvzf9COcv99yWWF-QF5JrRZCSZSHKJOMwwPFaOauWPeEKdbU1LV6t6ADKdKK5yONo72pz-VyH2shBn7MVdNHNhS8-VdcJIXB3LqVWFQdmvmCZxrkCrb38Vg/s640/blogger-image-810832383.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyp0m5rCadrTkN0yl3LaxXzw7whso8sFeoVI_jgoRXbcojFvsAHJsUjW4Z8vCkbippLcXSL-ywc6wWawy6R2j5vpR8KV6wXXjSh_mLkxun4sFSqI6rBc-lbTQbBF5HQiWxkRiUyg/s640/blogger-image--903478772.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyp0m5rCadrTkN0yl3LaxXzw7whso8sFeoVI_jgoRXbcojFvsAHJsUjW4Z8vCkbippLcXSL-ywc6wWawy6R2j5vpR8KV6wXXjSh_mLkxun4sFSqI6rBc-lbTQbBF5HQiWxkRiUyg/s640/blogger-image--903478772.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-vT7R3PBymvWLGJ2unvR-uzRRk4I6inIjf20PwEacV52TrQpOk8CPiptMulFJSVYEpcd4nCEpGYaoxDEtieIhmnEB12u7-i4ha5sspHvGVsZ5ILW68ofhqUQwzRJWOUfSSuksvg/s640/blogger-image-518922556.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-vT7R3PBymvWLGJ2unvR-uzRRk4I6inIjf20PwEacV52TrQpOk8CPiptMulFJSVYEpcd4nCEpGYaoxDEtieIhmnEB12u7-i4ha5sspHvGVsZ5ILW68ofhqUQwzRJWOUfSSuksvg/s640/blogger-image-518922556.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVSh2ehoXKYum5aT9AkMnG-3DsGckwf-4RM9vWIlp1gqOlAoFkvPzHD-Si6woIWIAbWs2j_Rq51fUKfHHal0GWJTAQnNHBj83qdcrUwPfo-x1i7XUjCXxjC92kpz5gMFPuKhykfA/s640/blogger-image-1792373834.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVSh2ehoXKYum5aT9AkMnG-3DsGckwf-4RM9vWIlp1gqOlAoFkvPzHD-Si6woIWIAbWs2j_Rq51fUKfHHal0GWJTAQnNHBj83qdcrUwPfo-x1i7XUjCXxjC92kpz5gMFPuKhykfA/s640/blogger-image-1792373834.jpg"></a></div><br></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Passing back through the centre of Rishikesh, Saturday night was in full swing, the roads rammed with traffic, so we were particulary grateful for the peace and quiet of the ashram when we finally returned to base. </div></span><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">A couple of days in the ashram followed, focused on classes on meditation practice, asana and pranayama (breathing control). Sitting in on two one-hour meditations with Swami Veda on the first day of Holi, I discovered the meaning of 'discomfort' - try to sit absolutely still, either crossed legged or on the floor or on a stool, with your back straight and with your awareness only on your breath, and you'll know what I mean. Very difficult, and you have to respect the experts also in the room who can do that for hours, or in the case of the Swami, days. </span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">However, on the morning of Holi day, I did have a 'breakthrough': I found a sitting position where I could get properly into meditative breathing, and, 'wow', the calm, the complete absence of thought and even physical awareness of your body, was awesome (note I didn't use the word 'sensational' as this would be an oxymoron!). Let's hope this can be repeated. Everyone in our group is reporting better and deeper sleep now, most likely all of us properly chilling out after five days in the ashram. Living in the modern world takes a lot of unwinding.</span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">But, of course it is Holi, and at 1000 the ashram erupted into chaos, with gangs of teachers and students wandering the campus, daubing all-comers in (organic) paint and actively seeking new victims. As I write this I'm hiding in my bungalow, as I hear the water pistols have now come out!</span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Two of our number did get caught, however, the evidence below!</span></div></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdg1t-xbInQXgNhMrdjUiE1RyPVNPju65AJjh1kM8vu90exo70f5vccba44EFTSXVVIpq1-wgBJ2mmKT126My5bjpX1lDEFHVoq_nPA6zzD_1tiLnhz2xkEsqqfit5ppsndz7WTw/s640/blogger-image-1988195341.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdg1t-xbInQXgNhMrdjUiE1RyPVNPju65AJjh1kM8vu90exo70f5vccba44EFTSXVVIpq1-wgBJ2mmKT126My5bjpX1lDEFHVoq_nPA6zzD_1tiLnhz2xkEsqqfit5ppsndz7WTw/s640/blogger-image-1988195341.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">We took an early morning trip to the small Hindu temple, Kunjapuri, atop a small mountain north of Rishikesh, ostensibly to get a view to the Garhwal Himalaya at sunrise. A very early start was required but we soon reached the cloud base and at the temple itself huddled against the chill of the pre-dawn breeze. We waited, in a grey gloom, for daylight to appear, but the cloud thickened and the rain started, so we retreated back to our car, there gaining some views to the south, the Ganges winding its way through a hazy Rishikesh far below us. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">But then night returned! The clouds thickened and the lightning intensified, soon producing sheets of heavy rain and some hail. Fortunately our driver had chosen to descend at a glacial pace, so we were quite safe, and soon back to the ashram for breakfast. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">It was a strange start to the day, and disappointing for those members of our group who had looked forward to seeing the mountains, but the abiding memory will be the stillness of our wait at the temple, humbled by the silence interrupted by the sporadic rumble of thunder and the spectacle of sheet lightning above us. Isn't nature awesome?</div>The Swami Rama Sadhaka Grama is one of the world's leading ashrams and hosts the Meditation Research Institute, so we were privileged to be shown the scientific project which is currently engaged in measuring the impact of meditation on the human neurological state. The head of the ashram, Swami Veda Bharati, is now a quarter of the way into a five year 'silence', and is tested on a quarterly basis for changes to his basic physiology and, more importantly, what he is now able to achieve in terms of manipulating his brain function. There is a larger study which is comparing the effects of the ashram's meditation technique, the Himalayan method, which focuses on abdominal breathing above all else, versus other systems like the mantra based TM, and vipassana.</span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">We were able to get some biofeedback on our progress so far, hooked up to measure our abdominal breathing performance vs. chest breathing, and see for ourselves the impact on the respiritory rate and our resultant state of relaxation. The results clearly illustrated the effect of abdominal breathing, and noted that more practice required by all!</span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsCCkI6E3_1qTJwwrg6ibdDIrmTH98YHvBp6-xM1cYfreLILaU6EpTUyFansnyOnat0II6MuDxN_3nkH4WevHAh-hny_kksxHsSRbsUQWo81FPXQuLpqVoyhDXC-vWr7KZ2wWIcg/s640/blogger-image-775782811.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsCCkI6E3_1qTJwwrg6ibdDIrmTH98YHvBp6-xM1cYfreLILaU6EpTUyFansnyOnat0II6MuDxN_3nkH4WevHAh-hny_kksxHsSRbsUQWo81FPXQuLpqVoyhDXC-vWr7KZ2wWIcg/s640/blogger-image-775782811.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZhPISd1wr-eylsjT0xp2vDhlxss2iwGW03OaOZQzscBwER2qnAeozJps3FfZcjPlZxHwOZPDX-5dyhRnmoXVWaQbuxh1Srpu0r9Vl2suaCboSvGSll74BdRUx33A0SGEYrSstyQ/s640/blogger-image--1826370107.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZhPISd1wr-eylsjT0xp2vDhlxss2iwGW03OaOZQzscBwER2qnAeozJps3FfZcjPlZxHwOZPDX-5dyhRnmoXVWaQbuxh1Srpu0r9Vl2suaCboSvGSll74BdRUx33A0SGEYrSstyQ/s640/blogger-image--1826370107.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Starting my session, breathing rate 21+ breaths per minute, the red line showing chestal breathing and the white line the preferred abdominal breath</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-Zp2b2dkyG8Ku4AVhHDLTVHb7ZIxGRRqTbalbuzuXuAb_7zGb3PiBnXh5Ser373yBRaxeLXxKNkohYeNP-Zyoq__uLdp6WQoHs1QiajxGWwqpVQp4jJ2j3QLgnNj6MlcDDcUDcg/s640/blogger-image-1426413560.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-Zp2b2dkyG8Ku4AVhHDLTVHb7ZIxGRRqTbalbuzuXuAb_7zGb3PiBnXh5Ser373yBRaxeLXxKNkohYeNP-Zyoq__uLdp6WQoHs1QiajxGWwqpVQp4jJ2j3QLgnNj6MlcDDcUDcg/s640/blogger-image-1426413560.jpg"></a></div>Just three minutes later, with concentration, breath rate down to about 9 breaths per minute, and the flatter red line showing less dependence on chestal breathing and a more rhythmic and deeper abdominal breath</div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The following day, we enjoyed a full day out of the ashram, in fabulous weather. Setting off early for Dehradun, the capital of Uttarakand, we were dropped off in the Tibetan refugee's enclave in Clement Town, just south west of the centre. This is the home of a giant standing Śākyamuni Buddha, the Mindrolling Monastery of the Nyingma-pa sect and the Great Stupa. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The whole enclave is beautifully kept, in stark contrast to the Indian areas peripheral to it, with houses adorned with prayer flags, Buddhist symbols and flowers in abundance. We were made very welcome in the area, first making a circumnabulation of a smaller stupa attached to a more compact monastery of the Gelug-pa sect, occupied by two young monks who were chanting a puja for a flock of elderly Tibetans who subsequently enjoyed a free breakfast, courtesy of the local monks, under a large awning. Very atmospheric and friendly. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLcvVdNIqlJLuBpZLTkKMewtNTXo0TEplEPGZSQPaJ9-s3p0HgFMnQc2awzDZPx_UooeonKApKBbe3jbSiIe7alq3AJH56ekjS-hIhtmhjDL96lx8tpgsygJnBHVcMFIXALYedyA/s640/blogger-image--2037279083.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLcvVdNIqlJLuBpZLTkKMewtNTXo0TEplEPGZSQPaJ9-s3p0HgFMnQc2awzDZPx_UooeonKApKBbe3jbSiIe7alq3AJH56ekjS-hIhtmhjDL96lx8tpgsygJnBHVcMFIXALYedyA/s640/blogger-image--2037279083.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvNkOQhRt3wRYTKD_OjA9LNSJ3iTKMjv7Z5sXJvWmCzro4Y8KKYu9ZYEud5CSqG3FzcTfkl0rMTX1uQGFVQcIH8ekT-Vx9XT3gZiAIjr7UR8f8esS82G2pghrpdLGk3enU6tRL6w/s640/blogger-image--1615639982.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvNkOQhRt3wRYTKD_OjA9LNSJ3iTKMjv7Z5sXJvWmCzro4Y8KKYu9ZYEud5CSqG3FzcTfkl0rMTX1uQGFVQcIH8ekT-Vx9XT3gZiAIjr7UR8f8esS82G2pghrpdLGk3enU6tRL6w/s640/blogger-image--1615639982.jpg"></a></div><br></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">We were allowed into the stupa to observe the monks, before walking a little south to visit the main monastery of the area, the Mindrolling Monastery. This is the base for some 300 monks and within the monastery we found excellent statues of Śākyamuni and the great teacher Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche), the walls adorned with multiple images of both, and larger frescoes of the various deities such as Hevajra.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc-WQmNc8gZbHP4w1-EpZj9zh4x_yjJU8Ld4-tUsnvqOc-UwjBU_dg9XIdA6d4mNtGp9fB1hT1SGFG8HdKmeOwYYNa9-SdjSsHho11kYkPVtUHfXK-GAFKDe7fzIixRSv4cZUHbA/s640/blogger-image--180543148.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc-WQmNc8gZbHP4w1-EpZj9zh4x_yjJU8Ld4-tUsnvqOc-UwjBU_dg9XIdA6d4mNtGp9fB1hT1SGFG8HdKmeOwYYNa9-SdjSsHho11kYkPVtUHfXK-GAFKDe7fzIixRSv4cZUHbA/s640/blogger-image--180543148.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgspkAjBp2OEAtgqCbQUvBrld7S59OY177-nCqkmpo_ciFKq-vFhDzKSXvK4m9Pceuumi_Xj7EXir2tM6hx9BV4zoVTfAitspltC8sgqF3tAB5IYp9_qHgkLWTP9JF9xCjnXkaw-g/s640/blogger-image--1156864629.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgspkAjBp2OEAtgqCbQUvBrld7S59OY177-nCqkmpo_ciFKq-vFhDzKSXvK4m9Pceuumi_Xj7EXir2tM6hx9BV4zoVTfAitspltC8sgqF3tAB5IYp9_qHgkLWTP9JF9xCjnXkaw-g/s640/blogger-image--1156864629.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEUhBjP2G2FmD68GdGg7m0Q9RToEGzPdmChFbh9RuK81xAsPXUptCmDvd8GY_t2OsRjqmCJ_DC1XXhFZEOKpiYUcUc0iOdZR_2LHG9tj0neI1QhUInHrkogapk3SaPdtTC4C_Iuw/s640/blogger-image--1335651024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEUhBjP2G2FmD68GdGg7m0Q9RToEGzPdmChFbh9RuK81xAsPXUptCmDvd8GY_t2OsRjqmCJ_DC1XXhFZEOKpiYUcUc0iOdZR_2LHG9tj0neI1QhUInHrkogapk3SaPdtTC4C_Iuw/s640/blogger-image--1335651024.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSoYNtH2hdNxIacFx5Q7v3auG6W1F3qFnAU3qwaioTJNNDj8fN9HtvLua23xy33v9nwT0UPZT8QJVbQ_NNbg2_5K_xIndFgBtocxFf0NN7iC02FryTXlUULyqZeve6vl17SGWpiA/s640/blogger-image--1535677055.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSoYNtH2hdNxIacFx5Q7v3auG6W1F3qFnAU3qwaioTJNNDj8fN9HtvLua23xy33v9nwT0UPZT8QJVbQ_NNbg2_5K_xIndFgBtocxFf0NN7iC02FryTXlUULyqZeve6vl17SGWpiA/s640/blogger-image--1535677055.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Our final stop here was back at the smaller Gelug-pa monastery, Phakyul Palden Tashi Yae Khil, with many young monks milling around before their English language class, and the monastery was opened especially for us. Imagery here was more focused on Śākyamuni and the adept Tsongkhapa, plus numerous images of the head of the Gelug-pa, the current Dalai Lama.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4ThVf2U0f881H_7ekpZt-4FYnY9F7c31cn96qvp2KMSvqnPaXJv6z82dYmczeYSw_8f0jbMSMHAEshWnCE6nEQnpUbf9pnPg9jaXPpQs6aUupuP61ZwWTJV7SUBZ86IR5nwzPuw/s640/blogger-image--1858762248.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4ThVf2U0f881H_7ekpZt-4FYnY9F7c31cn96qvp2KMSvqnPaXJv6z82dYmczeYSw_8f0jbMSMHAEshWnCE6nEQnpUbf9pnPg9jaXPpQs6aUupuP61ZwWTJV7SUBZ86IR5nwzPuw/s640/blogger-image--1858762248.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSj8lPOfJPc8LJzXtZr5L6nWNAnV2FUZz9m-E4tWxSSH_YFW-N6yx2H1xYrZrL7BUfxfsg9OelIP4j7d9SONLSr79cn-zWRGch0aPYuE_2WGPML4cBbaHBhVqyJoHc-thFbvUuyg/s640/blogger-image--1467723187.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSj8lPOfJPc8LJzXtZr5L6nWNAnV2FUZz9m-E4tWxSSH_YFW-N6yx2H1xYrZrL7BUfxfsg9OelIP4j7d9SONLSr79cn-zWRGch0aPYuE_2WGPML4cBbaHBhVqyJoHc-thFbvUuyg/s640/blogger-image--1467723187.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">A nice visit, enjoyed by all of us and it set up the rest of the day nicely.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">We ventured back into the congested centre of Dehradun before turning north into the hill country which builds up to the very high summits of the Garhwal Himalaya. The road ascended from the flat plains around Dehradun and after many switchbacks, we reached the hill town of Mussorie, established by the British in the 19th century as a resort area, and subsequently as a convalescent area for military personnel. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD5dzh207R2b3Ryo7iN4Z7-t9wPerUuhlpobZOMA2VCqh4dzjiEbT1qhOUTLlx0K_VxSOW3FwFK7wLY2JMP3ArEZSz6MsMDOIiMTr977wyirwWCKRC1ja_U1eB2v_MDnjtr5iLYQ/s640/blogger-image-1284853336.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD5dzh207R2b3Ryo7iN4Z7-t9wPerUuhlpobZOMA2VCqh4dzjiEbT1qhOUTLlx0K_VxSOW3FwFK7wLY2JMP3ArEZSz6MsMDOIiMTr977wyirwWCKRC1ja_U1eB2v_MDnjtr5iLYQ/s640/blogger-image-1284853336.jpg"></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1LGycxzU6DivWDRCiFf6ev1jrEutUOM2UOst2XPmRLY4lG1O_7ua0ySDfV5Vvgq5vP5s9vst2FnlR6nEbz3z6UbYIPJMui6x0bTK9GiuDlcBMEIJUuZgmmPC3E3MRG55KGQlFnA/s640/blogger-image--613919118.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1LGycxzU6DivWDRCiFf6ev1jrEutUOM2UOst2XPmRLY4lG1O_7ua0ySDfV5Vvgq5vP5s9vst2FnlR6nEbz3z6UbYIPJMui6x0bTK9GiuDlcBMEIJUuZgmmPC3E3MRG55KGQlFnA/s640/blogger-image--613919118.jpg"></a></div><br></div></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">We pushed on a little further uphill to reach Landour on the ridge above Mussorie, now at 2100m, and had lunch in Rokeby House, previously owned by one Frederick 'Pahari' Wilson, adventurer and entrepreneur, who was the inspiration for Rudyard Kipling's 'The Man Who Would Be King'. It was subsequently a boarding house for Methodist missionaries, then a guest house before becoming a heritage hotel & restaurant. Excellent food, service and atmosphere. Highly recommended!</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE7qIpTrKMuWPxvMrOfKbLc9D4qAoVWmIFml_IDRdNqRBHNseNkv_y27qjNUhgGTa8cvbLSGp1BqEpVKcFoi2MvEC4_QAR_mRJmFaNtAkmCqSOvRlpECdVYIsfiwHt-Kl3UpAtow/s640/blogger-image-1664263777.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE7qIpTrKMuWPxvMrOfKbLc9D4qAoVWmIFml_IDRdNqRBHNseNkv_y27qjNUhgGTa8cvbLSGp1BqEpVKcFoi2MvEC4_QAR_mRJmFaNtAkmCqSOvRlpECdVYIsfiwHt-Kl3UpAtow/s640/blogger-image-1664263777.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">A post-prandial walk was a must, and we walked what is known as the 'chukka', an old bridle route, now surfaced as a minor road, which provides a great circular walk with views to the higher Himalaya to the north, viewed though giant pine and deodar trees, and views to the south and west over Mussorie and down to Dehradun in the far distance. From this vantage point, the river Ganges and Yamuna can be seen, their next meeting point many hundreds of miles away to the east in Allahabad. Wonderful views, fresh, cooler air. A beautiful afternoon.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmLhyphenhyphenlpqxgZCznhyphenhyphenzlsIM37_OI2V96KE-H7oQCmdAgYAg_6TrcPTeSo7ByPW5KgHsK3nD6IVQgWRv6H06ocFnLM4BpZCJUYgftoMBXsJT930BWYGVirZN0tZnxS8ewp92ETxARPg/s640/blogger-image-1892228686.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmLhyphenhyphenlpqxgZCznhyphenhyphenzlsIM37_OI2V96KE-H7oQCmdAgYAg_6TrcPTeSo7ByPW5KgHsK3nD6IVQgWRv6H06ocFnLM4BpZCJUYgftoMBXsJT930BWYGVirZN0tZnxS8ewp92ETxARPg/s640/blogger-image-1892228686.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh45Tve9BpfrAboNf4Ci6-cQkY-VAXkwXKzyVfXsaZlkN8IZL5O3WpoboldgBMjE49IkWA0vU8XzZTgAzOYK5gRpHFVV24o3B7uW4uDgWdXd1s3rhXLjZQhCUtBBrp8-ngEC4ZQqA/s640/blogger-image--1543511559.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh45Tve9BpfrAboNf4Ci6-cQkY-VAXkwXKzyVfXsaZlkN8IZL5O3WpoboldgBMjE49IkWA0vU8XzZTgAzOYK5gRpHFVV24o3B7uW4uDgWdXd1s3rhXLjZQhCUtBBrp8-ngEC4ZQqA/s640/blogger-image--1543511559.jpg"></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikr_-eH0VbYGnLkohrsZwXeeaoFE5LtzHW8vXZuGvDjanVifcXZJAXzd0sUGicvqMwYbqIruK3X-Z4Q30DKcvLOhY2r1QIcxs6KnRzIeCbHCt50NF0-KAXY-bjyvCt2205XyRAYg/s640/blogger-image--87859531.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikr_-eH0VbYGnLkohrsZwXeeaoFE5LtzHW8vXZuGvDjanVifcXZJAXzd0sUGicvqMwYbqIruK3X-Z4Q30DKcvLOhY2r1QIcxs6KnRzIeCbHCt50NF0-KAXY-bjyvCt2205XyRAYg/s640/blogger-image--87859531.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCJsiuKLW8mgG2UEXHQhPgg3CYUDXX-KOZfVQjp6L0Fn_bbqcpzRR1p8Walm07V1ZeGxtehbOPH8EYS_UUaWUDZBAfZcV9m4oiUYBiDFB4-y-ZuUG8PaR5litqAmEHNnvmfja2kA/s640/blogger-image-1191909852.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCJsiuKLW8mgG2UEXHQhPgg3CYUDXX-KOZfVQjp6L0Fn_bbqcpzRR1p8Walm07V1ZeGxtehbOPH8EYS_UUaWUDZBAfZcV9m4oiUYBiDFB4-y-ZuUG8PaR5litqAmEHNnvmfja2kA/s640/blogger-image-1191909852.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj6ABFre-DRJrXWgwFOKxYDPzHhARzAOU7Tuz9Y0O-RGSlx5E_D9wJhy37g_q_CZ4kAc9u6NFrhkaD01x4SV0ZwiyE1p7lG8gblqQY9TjSCe6BtQHrFjd5oBPenODqtRVOIK3iGA/s640/blogger-image--950996787.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj6ABFre-DRJrXWgwFOKxYDPzHhARzAOU7Tuz9Y0O-RGSlx5E_D9wJhy37g_q_CZ4kAc9u6NFrhkaD01x4SV0ZwiyE1p7lG8gblqQY9TjSCe6BtQHrFjd5oBPenODqtRVOIK3iGA/s640/blogger-image--950996787.jpg"></a></div><br></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The return to the ashram took a couple of hours, but the effort of the day well worth it.</div></div><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguRPhyphenhypheno5WqnmOaS2cWDfoHLNC-NxYq0Fh7XolVVojWcLjJzdLn7fSSV_YJ0JK_PyU4kIC27LIf6aZT1hPSkR9nOyKH4mYwthPCXoWit-ohhA5Z3WkKJ_jPeyuCE8slQnpPNoUIOQ/s640/blogger-image--1754002186.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguRPhyphenhypheno5WqnmOaS2cWDfoHLNC-NxYq0Fh7XolVVojWcLjJzdLn7fSSV_YJ0JK_PyU4kIC27LIf6aZT1hPSkR9nOyKH4mYwthPCXoWit-ohhA5Z3WkKJ_jPeyuCE8slQnpPNoUIOQ/s640/blogger-image--1754002186.jpg"></a></div>Says it all really 😊</span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Our final two days in the ashram were of quiet study (I'm currently struggling through Mircea Eliade's <i>Yoga - Immortality and Freedom)</i>, asana and meditation practice. Although there's a natural impetus to return to the 'normal world' there is a progressive calm, in body and mind, emerging. It's difficult to put into writing, but I'm certainly more mindful of what's going on around me, feeling greater equanimity, and able to feel fully relaxed with little effort. Sleep has deepened, with more lucid dreaming than I can ever remember, and overall, a feeling of calm contentment prevails. Attending the final prayer session on the evening before our departure, I felt no burning desire to leave, as I did last time, and could easily have remained here longer.</span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">But, return to the world we must. So an early morning start to catch the Jan Shatabdhi from Hardiwar to New Delhi and the comfort awaiting us at the Raddison Blu in Connaught Place. The experience of travelling on Indian railways is a must. All life is there. People sleeping on the platforms, beggars in profusion, food stalls, and the usual bunfight to board the train. We were in first class a/c, although on this occasion, the only thing 'first class' about it was the pitch of the seats. Hey ho, it was moderately comfortable, and a wonder to watch the sun rise as we headed south from Hardiwar.</span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">A day of R&R in Delhi, gorging on Kingfisher beer, G&Ts for the ladies, and meat, meat, meat. Too much as it turned out...we all decried the after effects of suddenly returning to our normal indulgences, the comparison with the simpler, cleaner diet we had all been on in the ashram showing just how unhealthy our long term regime really is, well, certainly in my case! But, we were soon on the move again. This time heading for the new Delhi domestic airport terminal, which, as it turns out, is a delight. Modern, efficient sporting stores like WH Smith, Costa and M&S, plus some nice design touches like the statue of a well known yoga sequence called Surya Namaskar, the 'salute to the sun'. Stylish.</span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn52sugm7BO9ofnQloJ0F5DM102LWWqeQnUevZKHifYejonTo605DEopa0IINFz8QoN3ptNCSOyb6T9iKIGgabGdXX5NSaOG8JFKky0zAe8sV6XTvtm7LQHKxdDI-tWEMV7z42Bg/s640/blogger-image-286572653.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn52sugm7BO9ofnQloJ0F5DM102LWWqeQnUevZKHifYejonTo605DEopa0IINFz8QoN3ptNCSOyb6T9iKIGgabGdXX5NSaOG8JFKky0zAe8sV6XTvtm7LQHKxdDI-tWEMV7z42Bg/s640/blogger-image-286572653.jpg"></a></div><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">We flew for about an hour on JetKonnect to Varanasi, about 500 miles south east of Delhi, a small but vibrant city which sits on the sacred river Ganges, and is a site if pilgrimage for millions of Hindus and also for Buddhists. A quick lunch enjoyed at the Radisson in the city, then it was off to visit the site of the Buddha's first sermon, the Deer Park in Sarnath, 10km north of the city. First a look at the archeological museum there, containing atrifacts dating back to the 3rd century BCE...many damaged following the Moghul (Islamic) invasions in 12th century CE, but there are some sublime images of Śākyamuni Buddha and early representations of bodhisattvas that came to be revered from the 1st century CE. Then to the Deer Park itself, with many stupas (well, in most cases only the bases, a result of Islamic vandalisation and erosion over the centuries), some for relics, other for commemoration (notably the large, restored Dhammachakra stupa, which marks the site of Buddha's 'first turning of the wheel of Dharma'), and the more numerous votive stupas, built by followers of the Buddha as an act of respect. It's a very peaceful spot just beyond the manic city of Varanasi, and there were Buddhist groups from Thailand, Burma and Sri Lanka, plus a smattering of Tibetan/N. Indian monks, all in prayer around the site. Hugely atmospheric.</span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoRNCJJqsHFo7Y9COoU79kmdj00l3nJGHjrdzrUF3x7zagjvXaLxlQRVkhVhtgZAfmJyIuA8EIBApuq3ym4e4RQIg0-gu1Co8LMBADtLC6yM3YRQxWRBkHz_q8sRpw5BD51nQS_A/s640/blogger-image--1920209334.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoRNCJJqsHFo7Y9COoU79kmdj00l3nJGHjrdzrUF3x7zagjvXaLxlQRVkhVhtgZAfmJyIuA8EIBApuq3ym4e4RQIg0-gu1Co8LMBADtLC6yM3YRQxWRBkHz_q8sRpw5BD51nQS_A/s640/blogger-image--1920209334.jpg"></a></div></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguxek5gFPGFY7nyENo3DB7_9fQdAHmI32KyfzUC_05IIq_2pvqdEr8xsBw2lLJqtFSH3MtIfaznkiEQRoL3pCVwniCluTklTnRZLdoA7DWgI04z3-fm9IrJyKmWfOHzQYQx4RgAQ/s640/blogger-image--786075378.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguxek5gFPGFY7nyENo3DB7_9fQdAHmI32KyfzUC_05IIq_2pvqdEr8xsBw2lLJqtFSH3MtIfaznkiEQRoL3pCVwniCluTklTnRZLdoA7DWgI04z3-fm9IrJyKmWfOHzQYQx4RgAQ/s640/blogger-image--786075378.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtcWhAt37UeOKnRIV2cZLld6kDnw1JBPpoHKqVYsH2dRz4wKYUJzjhIj_pOfWa8mY6jXwm6fYNC52hoj4YB7s3j94tcOjUB6aP3eUiXlp7MFkNSPrhldY98q8sPangLl53pfuo9g/s640/blogger-image-1729600716.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtcWhAt37UeOKnRIV2cZLld6kDnw1JBPpoHKqVYsH2dRz4wKYUJzjhIj_pOfWa8mY6jXwm6fYNC52hoj4YB7s3j94tcOjUB6aP3eUiXlp7MFkNSPrhldY98q8sPangLl53pfuo9g/s640/blogger-image-1729600716.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKIZ65v5LpPF45WUz_mGLUi5uZPjgFd0TwJhAP8HrNozzgr2jH7t5b6KjiH3oAtNJ4s5HZN8I2Q2Rvzj18AS2WRVNpRy0LjJlqwsGzW-OnWi9_P9AC_WwEcCj_whfoEoiKDIf-3g/s640/blogger-image-692825478.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKIZ65v5LpPF45WUz_mGLUi5uZPjgFd0TwJhAP8HrNozzgr2jH7t5b6KjiH3oAtNJ4s5HZN8I2Q2Rvzj18AS2WRVNpRy0LjJlqwsGzW-OnWi9_P9AC_WwEcCj_whfoEoiKDIf-3g/s640/blogger-image-692825478.jpg"></a></div></div></div><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">In Sarnath, there is also a large standing Buddha, built by donation, to replicate the famous Bamiyan Buddha destroyed by the Taliban in Afghanistan a few years ago.</span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">But for any tourist visit to Varanasi, one of the great highlights is the early evening visit to see the daily aarti, a series of prayers and rituals to the many Hindu gods, including, of course, the sacred Ganga. A long and entertaining ride on a bicycle rickshaw brought us to the ghats, the steps that take worshippers down to the river itself. This involves hundreds of near misses with cars, auto rickshaws, motorbikes, bicycles, cows, bulls, random people of all religious persuasion, and other bicycle rickshaws, crossing chaotic roundabouts, passing through markets and shops selling just about everything, and Hindu temples and mosques revealing themselves at every turn. Great fun.</span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii8oyTpGQDTgem7S-_DEmC5l1IzGwJVzLiIN9aU5S-_KU9WbUwnXnIVy35Tery5OgvZAdRE1Z_75ndv7mra8uy1ciXuVWW37ZMwKqipalXnibimm4I5Mt19w4xK8IOecGnH87OeQ/s640/blogger-image--547316962.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii8oyTpGQDTgem7S-_DEmC5l1IzGwJVzLiIN9aU5S-_KU9WbUwnXnIVy35Tery5OgvZAdRE1Z_75ndv7mra8uy1ciXuVWW37ZMwKqipalXnibimm4I5Mt19w4xK8IOecGnH87OeQ/s640/blogger-image--547316962.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuiUbC-qG8lyF1NcLHtYrrZwn2bsu_fBvXo4gYSUPvlT1wezdzTi-e0ODmYY0L9qa6g5SJX1rNlreUMNZVDP3-EEalkBltYNdm_VDIhZvdN0TKLm4RCiO1zRqrX-MgL7VhuFF19w/s640/blogger-image--297754247.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuiUbC-qG8lyF1NcLHtYrrZwn2bsu_fBvXo4gYSUPvlT1wezdzTi-e0ODmYY0L9qa6g5SJX1rNlreUMNZVDP3-EEalkBltYNdm_VDIhZvdN0TKLm4RCiO1zRqrX-MgL7VhuFF19w/s640/blogger-image--297754247.jpg"></a></div></div><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZormCafDr7VtDYLel2u2vE6RZqN4tZoH0YxsUtXIPVJdVADC9UfS0LC__45F8DNcmWv4D-XmJhMLihBD_1L4mQrOHQUScoIyRQWFnq3u5au_lFpkWO2_-u0F36G-0toHIZj5DeA/s640/blogger-image-1538092944.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZormCafDr7VtDYLel2u2vE6RZqN4tZoH0YxsUtXIPVJdVADC9UfS0LC__45F8DNcmWv4D-XmJhMLihBD_1L4mQrOHQUScoIyRQWFnq3u5au_lFpkWO2_-u0F36G-0toHIZj5DeA/s640/blogger-image-1538092944.jpg"></a></div><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">At the main Dashashwamedh ghat itself, we were able to sit on a balcony just above the ceremonial site and get a good view of the proceedings. Thousands of people throng here each evening, the ceremony starting at 1830 and lasting just over half an hour, seven pandits going through a choreographed sequence of offerings, involving much incense and fire, accompanied by sung prayer and music. Pilgrims and tourists alike crowd the ghat steps, whilst others view from a flotilla of boats which cling to the shoreline. This is one of the world's most iconic sites, and well worth the visit if you can stand the crowds and the noise.</span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTsWvggHjj6QiTjZH7nanLlFbQtUpGWMfGglo6TGbNAl27SuQ0MWF6QGLvugOxTeuvjJyh-AM1CoMArDGTYqPPUCST7C4_wtz3CaUIp73WaLs_RJN3MA4VeLx8SIcrCWpSXkU77A/s640/blogger-image-1994452143.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTsWvggHjj6QiTjZH7nanLlFbQtUpGWMfGglo6TGbNAl27SuQ0MWF6QGLvugOxTeuvjJyh-AM1CoMArDGTYqPPUCST7C4_wtz3CaUIp73WaLs_RJN3MA4VeLx8SIcrCWpSXkU77A/s640/blogger-image-1994452143.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk1dI-SxFzGIq7wT80pe0R0Rxk0RoucuetiW-w6BO_eY1ZnU4m36qSS9fKwM7VKrAO0nbmCp1iEsVwkaRs4vda0_vWRa0Uep03cy0CNa4dtbMCUVD4y8j7lIUwvGfjoh-BEJmB_A/s640/blogger-image--254862233.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk1dI-SxFzGIq7wT80pe0R0Rxk0RoucuetiW-w6BO_eY1ZnU4m36qSS9fKwM7VKrAO0nbmCp1iEsVwkaRs4vda0_vWRa0Uep03cy0CNa4dtbMCUVD4y8j7lIUwvGfjoh-BEJmB_A/s640/blogger-image--254862233.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9setJ9Rd8RTEh6gfnMKjpw_DMzylCLlT2be-vMnPf9V4EwQkz-TcPKC2SjeXz3VM5Z5UkqNZpwkyYerYQ6Fnw6tdG4OcVfw_8bd-MKOkHGL2LeMUYO8eIqRnJedzeJU9zC_BMdA/s640/blogger-image--1715402385.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9setJ9Rd8RTEh6gfnMKjpw_DMzylCLlT2be-vMnPf9V4EwQkz-TcPKC2SjeXz3VM5Z5UkqNZpwkyYerYQ6Fnw6tdG4OcVfw_8bd-MKOkHGL2LeMUYO8eIqRnJedzeJU9zC_BMdA/s640/blogger-image--1715402385.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGtpLydNsOkqG4TzUMr_uFudbYdDlhW5JHDlqUY_QT1nTKQgwGViW7ujJCCsQQmjxKap29eFMYl72j1w2a16i13LkekW-YRGVd7-wiFKu_B3kpJLuhzACmghXRvucz3-I2Ii1GxQ/s640/blogger-image--1473302854.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGtpLydNsOkqG4TzUMr_uFudbYdDlhW5JHDlqUY_QT1nTKQgwGViW7ujJCCsQQmjxKap29eFMYl72j1w2a16i13LkekW-YRGVd7-wiFKu_B3kpJLuhzACmghXRvucz3-I2Ii1GxQ/s640/blogger-image--1473302854.jpg"></a></div></div><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">The return from the ghats to our bus was just as entertaining, the crowd streaming away from the ceremony, and the streets alive with vendors selling all sorts of tat, and food stalls doing a roaring trade. A great thing to do!</span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjhAWzF82kX3-XmsGuU0-gpFLyEHdkqPzu3oqV8h__NiFzyQPuXNttg8SQ22slIkAVXm7MfF9kKKy703Rdvqe1yzlQves9lHPmxXpZqcceMgLNBh7pVMC82siyBjlBdvXmA29roA/s640/blogger-image--448839034.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjhAWzF82kX3-XmsGuU0-gpFLyEHdkqPzu3oqV8h__NiFzyQPuXNttg8SQ22slIkAVXm7MfF9kKKy703Rdvqe1yzlQves9lHPmxXpZqcceMgLNBh7pVMC82siyBjlBdvXmA29roA/s640/blogger-image--448839034.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfrFwHwCm-oxPh61GqMvgKfvlStd6vHF8IXKJW9HshTYUagdbZA5xxGJNW0Gz8tNQbwqnadZ74cYWFHE-SPpjIF3alGMlyqXQMpRZNTqWKKkWF0Q35gR0dQXkwJ358vFLkkHKd9A/s640/blogger-image--1215868122.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfrFwHwCm-oxPh61GqMvgKfvlStd6vHF8IXKJW9HshTYUagdbZA5xxGJNW0Gz8tNQbwqnadZ74cYWFHE-SPpjIF3alGMlyqXQMpRZNTqWKKkWF0Q35gR0dQXkwJ358vFLkkHKd9A/s640/blogger-image--1215868122.jpg"></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP9MJn3-4wgoXF7ojz4R7qdsQDWiGRgSvVuM3y0AqKgb8Wf9Pc1LKgtEdHDcYghEfmixZ0XrIdRVHgvFhmDzWQ3hnyZgpZglKjFYOvnI9XraPiT7CTXj3oCY2bHLJDwF9V6OOXnA/s640/blogger-image-518653401.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP9MJn3-4wgoXF7ojz4R7qdsQDWiGRgSvVuM3y0AqKgb8Wf9Pc1LKgtEdHDcYghEfmixZ0XrIdRVHgvFhmDzWQ3hnyZgpZglKjFYOvnI9XraPiT7CTXj3oCY2bHLJDwF9V6OOXnA/s640/blogger-image-518653401.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFaIjZQf6fXvZh1l5ry8ZdfZEns25NEW5Ksid1QCsUZ488ebap44jDxXqjBVzG3sHtkobYpNeE0jaYD4hGvF33JRtn3aVdFptXCw9Lf8VIvuv-XzxVmspWfXMH-7do7_r74ZLAKw/s640/blogger-image-197145945.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFaIjZQf6fXvZh1l5ry8ZdfZEns25NEW5Ksid1QCsUZ488ebap44jDxXqjBVzG3sHtkobYpNeE0jaYD4hGvF33JRtn3aVdFptXCw9Lf8VIvuv-XzxVmspWfXMH-7do7_r74ZLAKw/s640/blogger-image-197145945.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0DxM0atVOpi7ZFPwoFWiCM3iEL7Ra9ZT9qGZYjjncyrbMeUyBMX9JkWtKJghqbS33PFy7qEBEOKMyZy-PU0xJcSUnIf6oBFGOE08Cg8zx-MpTj3PQc816Xg7ntQFQOgkRDobNgw/s640/blogger-image--1258729291.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0DxM0atVOpi7ZFPwoFWiCM3iEL7Ra9ZT9qGZYjjncyrbMeUyBMX9JkWtKJghqbS33PFy7qEBEOKMyZy-PU0xJcSUnIf6oBFGOE08Cg8zx-MpTj3PQc816Xg7ntQFQOgkRDobNgw/s640/blogger-image--1258729291.jpg"></a></div><br></div>We were up early to return to the ghats the following morning, this time to take to a rowing boat to observe the early morning ablutions, prayers and blessings of the Hindu pilgrims, who routinely bathe and consume the 'holy water' of the Ganga. Yet another example of the amazing spirituality of the Indian people, in all of its various manifestations, from the 'happy clappy' style of the Hare Krishna followers, the insanely decorated wandering sadhus, white clad yogis with shaved heads apart from a little tuft retained from the crown, and then the multifarious followers of Shiva and Vishnu. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Pilgrims come from all over India to bathe here, many consuming the river water (well known for its noxious content), although our guide insisted that none of them fall ill afterwards. Yeh, right.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">After viewing the main ghats upstream, we reversed direction, and were soon at the principal 'burning ghat', the site for many Hindu cremations each day, a major user of wood, and producing mounds of ash, most of which is unceremoniously swept into the river (and upstream of more bathing ghats!). There's even a role for the untouchables who do this (lucrative) work, panning the ash at the edge of the river for any gold remaining after the body has been consumed by fire.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Landing at the burning ghat, we were led up into the main part of Varanasi's old city, a veritable warren of narrow alleyways, teeming with cows, goats, and pilgrims heading for the Golden Temple, a most important site, particularly as the Muslims had erected a mosque over its original site back in history, still a very sore point. Security presence was very tight here, no bags, cameras, phones to be taken into the temple complex at all, and frisk searches on entry mandatory.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">As non-Hindus, we were not allowed into the inner sanctum to view the lingum, but instead sat and tried some delicious chai masala, very welcome after our early start.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdLPLn1YllyEAdXVmJEe6wC4xRzEs3njEegAJX_3QSPmNimth-hilw6xgvTKZEfdJLfAYyYxM34SvlSxWtY8kU5ao6T8uyCX3ZdwW9_N-MSn6w2ESz1FujjjQgzUAILTr7w5515w/s640/blogger-image-2038327426.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdLPLn1YllyEAdXVmJEe6wC4xRzEs3njEegAJX_3QSPmNimth-hilw6xgvTKZEfdJLfAYyYxM34SvlSxWtY8kU5ao6T8uyCX3ZdwW9_N-MSn6w2ESz1FujjjQgzUAILTr7w5515w/s640/blogger-image-2038327426.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGOmJZSmUu7OOjvIGt66x_lhQgSmhS5rACnWlC3DnP1rQSsxYVhuQhos1KdvxzslCDQDqS585aq-arA8E9r_DJDGLFkTX7pfPbFyyANAGxwsf-uBfDQ-upig-afwG2dV3vy1cXLQ/s640/blogger-image--870263860.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGOmJZSmUu7OOjvIGt66x_lhQgSmhS5rACnWlC3DnP1rQSsxYVhuQhos1KdvxzslCDQDqS585aq-arA8E9r_DJDGLFkTX7pfPbFyyANAGxwsf-uBfDQ-upig-afwG2dV3vy1cXLQ/s640/blogger-image--870263860.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaQZ-b0dbmS5J3xKovDDjfbFEljBYZZXUZEmOXCc50o6Iq1wivfE5ohTRWS1P9qOhhYrhzu2o10p7jrpU-KmMu2oEyKtn4XiRvFtRRsjYM48xQkkAz03-hPAH2_LXD-Q54q-gYlQ/s640/blogger-image--356289482.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaQZ-b0dbmS5J3xKovDDjfbFEljBYZZXUZEmOXCc50o6Iq1wivfE5ohTRWS1P9qOhhYrhzu2o10p7jrpU-KmMu2oEyKtn4XiRvFtRRsjYM48xQkkAz03-hPAH2_LXD-Q54q-gYlQ/s640/blogger-image--356289482.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_QskGs1QJFpAULpq3YAv3mQEMCUPemwvV_FXVwlT9KFVYPJ42ER3tRNYVQKilrkAAd-g5XFFkTy5AIM1bkAJtH4UbmNuOo4DXo11dasKDwuaxCZZcPN2eCQwbdxCwuwNt9bpR0g/s640/blogger-image-1464966461.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_QskGs1QJFpAULpq3YAv3mQEMCUPemwvV_FXVwlT9KFVYPJ42ER3tRNYVQKilrkAAd-g5XFFkTy5AIM1bkAJtH4UbmNuOo4DXo11dasKDwuaxCZZcPN2eCQwbdxCwuwNt9bpR0g/s640/blogger-image-1464966461.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgkbesoiUsTwklEICtTRRh2hTG63U2SIWbiA_IR-47mvVGBk7jsN8hHZ3GhLhOY8Ja3wkeKX8jzPeP_uefiWPl62nz8XYojxOkAP1jI3rJlvl_hM6FaGs2z05uJSuGMlEv8_jWKg/s640/blogger-image--741845283.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgkbesoiUsTwklEICtTRRh2hTG63U2SIWbiA_IR-47mvVGBk7jsN8hHZ3GhLhOY8Ja3wkeKX8jzPeP_uefiWPl62nz8XYojxOkAP1jI3rJlvl_hM6FaGs2z05uJSuGMlEv8_jWKg/s640/blogger-image--741845283.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP8fRWBb03Nl7CrHesjJGhlVs2yOOxCxSuvfDSHkdbI3UJJWoZRlyQNWrPuZI71gGdyXcvy-Axwk8wunIyqfSexsp_x-6xnu07VJn2BKBfx3D0r4H4fshiJch9Ui4phRYu0_T_sQ/s640/blogger-image--1616768411.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP8fRWBb03Nl7CrHesjJGhlVs2yOOxCxSuvfDSHkdbI3UJJWoZRlyQNWrPuZI71gGdyXcvy-Axwk8wunIyqfSexsp_x-6xnu07VJn2BKBfx3D0r4H4fshiJch9Ui4phRYu0_T_sQ/s640/blogger-image--1616768411.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy1LL77dFO92EekXytwdfW83XAnIhQ5dsb8561s_goUe0hOfB6kMkRj4FBovWhtNInep7-dPFRJrrbT8Kwfa2Y7Ylhw2vSAPc85d66BEeKJJAZr9GoQseHDWtQyGFCP2rdbFIw_A/s640/blogger-image--1816526896.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy1LL77dFO92EekXytwdfW83XAnIhQ5dsb8561s_goUe0hOfB6kMkRj4FBovWhtNInep7-dPFRJrrbT8Kwfa2Y7Ylhw2vSAPc85d66BEeKJJAZr9GoQseHDWtQyGFCP2rdbFIw_A/s640/blogger-image--1816526896.jpg"></a></div><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixM46Ku34YtA5pmOK-YK8U9jMDLlnwGvzRz_4v41R8AMRTEqtFkS0ap7c18-B9JH1Jc_ZSJSUyBW-AIKImqqO3nyVuveLUZRxx6LUAFlr_BYlpwuQaWwCDvxtUOnmbNHiRc48pwQ/s640/blogger-image-706956515.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixM46Ku34YtA5pmOK-YK8U9jMDLlnwGvzRz_4v41R8AMRTEqtFkS0ap7c18-B9JH1Jc_ZSJSUyBW-AIKImqqO3nyVuveLUZRxx6LUAFlr_BYlpwuQaWwCDvxtUOnmbNHiRc48pwQ/s640/blogger-image-706956515.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE5zGJly8zx-p-tkw5_MTmvXnFEvqkJA4P9dZAEEtYnh2ymObSIF16P2J7SQP48-a4HRgqzQoXF-FKRZbkJH9BIixTkemoOYzRwmEbIcl3kznavetntjjlvLs_PukQJ7HLCcyYkA/s640/blogger-image--578650079.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE5zGJly8zx-p-tkw5_MTmvXnFEvqkJA4P9dZAEEtYnh2ymObSIF16P2J7SQP48-a4HRgqzQoXF-FKRZbkJH9BIixTkemoOYzRwmEbIcl3kznavetntjjlvLs_PukQJ7HLCcyYkA/s640/blogger-image--578650079.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjXvmLJTW9U2qFcyDrxmRPGF_E4gkPNHgquZdYIJWK7QjFSnvY2YDTqZhX988ecLxCHOhvL7yBJh4IeMQhp_NORDY7np-BHeoMKuvdzc3bkald70sl-dx3smzACzuw10_b9AaMNA/s640/blogger-image-829568440.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjXvmLJTW9U2qFcyDrxmRPGF_E4gkPNHgquZdYIJWK7QjFSnvY2YDTqZhX988ecLxCHOhvL7yBJh4IeMQhp_NORDY7np-BHeoMKuvdzc3bkald70sl-dx3smzACzuw10_b9AaMNA/s640/blogger-image-829568440.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmLZoKleuKrJh_pjAUQhDVwzwWe_Ze_YCi8G3Kl9t8XrgrjCmcXFhFc-CiZZX7Vgpp3ZEsaPMmRddfR1dwx4jFh6SUlw0Sq1Cg7AAXtbXOr4i1y7AAUkVMVvzu_tG8LglTXeLHhg/s640/blogger-image--305666989.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmLZoKleuKrJh_pjAUQhDVwzwWe_Ze_YCi8G3Kl9t8XrgrjCmcXFhFc-CiZZX7Vgpp3ZEsaPMmRddfR1dwx4jFh6SUlw0Sq1Cg7AAXtbXOr4i1y7AAUkVMVvzu_tG8LglTXeLHhg/s640/blogger-image--305666989.jpg"></a></div><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN7uzHmez36WZoPjXZqRlZXgLHK49Hfp0VEQ88gwl9SPPoej4h6YnWCbJDezd8hKoXIVFhzB0rxT5aPXO_W2UofYBqJaQ4CtnocklmE0PfRitS6xhkIGSi8jjZup5fCwhywuMj6g/s640/blogger-image--363221228.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN7uzHmez36WZoPjXZqRlZXgLHK49Hfp0VEQ88gwl9SPPoej4h6YnWCbJDezd8hKoXIVFhzB0rxT5aPXO_W2UofYBqJaQ4CtnocklmE0PfRitS6xhkIGSi8jjZup5fCwhywuMj6g/s640/blogger-image--363221228.jpg"></a></div><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhnuhz00EKL5FrwwZhArW7qUgWg5iLVJkcfsLd9LbMsnetKlS2v9bVnapSIVJTelzfKIM7Sawmbo404Z4_hBnwDfhEvjwG1uyjSCcyR_Mo7VolSGTAhrhYJCVut5WjrnoqrtZlzw/s640/blogger-image--2026299857.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhnuhz00EKL5FrwwZhArW7qUgWg5iLVJkcfsLd9LbMsnetKlS2v9bVnapSIVJTelzfKIM7Sawmbo404Z4_hBnwDfhEvjwG1uyjSCcyR_Mo7VolSGTAhrhYJCVut5WjrnoqrtZlzw/s640/blogger-image--2026299857.jpg"></a></div><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ1VtSjuMeUMa7A3MrjqlzithXoauhoQzMK1U55LQcXjpuizyg4y7CqfCFVnZRW-uPCLrP3ZrbOIfa7Rt2VHxRVGPv-s6WU-cxrMQ4rgaN3NEWIbhbBjyfAzaIiKzh8-TBac-_Fg/s640/blogger-image--1516142776.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ1VtSjuMeUMa7A3MrjqlzithXoauhoQzMK1U55LQcXjpuizyg4y7CqfCFVnZRW-uPCLrP3ZrbOIfa7Rt2VHxRVGPv-s6WU-cxrMQ4rgaN3NEWIbhbBjyfAzaIiKzh8-TBac-_Fg/s640/blogger-image--1516142776.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">After a breakfast break, we then visited the non-religious 'temple to Mother India', housing a large 3D representation of the Indian sub-continent carved from marble in the 1920s. Worth a quick look. Then on to the inevitable - a visit to the Muslim sector of Varanasi, to see its thriving weaving industry. Predictably, this led to a shop selling fine quality hand woven silk items and some impressive salesmanship. Yawn. The group then retreated to the hotel for some R&R given that afternoon temperatures at this time of the year (March) rise to the mid '30s C, bound for Delhi the following day.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">But for two of us this was to be the last chance to see Varanasi as we were heading for the railway station to get the 1550 Kamayani Express to, of all places, Bhopal. The train journey took over 15 hours, and on this route first class isn't offered so we resigned ourselves to a long night in 'second class A/C', an experience that wasn't bad at all, both of us having a long comfortable sleep (probably aided by the rocking motion of the train) in a bunk bed arrangement parallel wth the corridor and privacy afforded by curtains. Much better than expected!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Bhopal was to be our base for the next couple of days, with a plan to visit Sanchi, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, 46km to the north east of the city, and site of the Great Stupa, commissioned by Emperor Ashoka in the 3rd century BCE, which is the oldest stone structure in India.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Our arrival in Bhopal was uneventful, although it was noteworthy that everything here looks a lot more ordered and clean than Varanasi. And even the little tin roofed shacks huddled up against the railway tracks as we approached the city station had satellite dishes sprouting from the rooftops. Our hotel, the Noor Us Sabah Palace, is splendidly situated on a hill just to the west of the city, overlooking Upper Bhopal Lake (Bhojtal). It is a converted Moghul palace and offers old style service, plus a spa and good internet. A good spot for the next day or two before another overnight train adventure.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEIrl-qLJPhAQAumVfKpg_ap3lJgDx6Z7KDAjIInGyiVfDbgp88KVEeuVtMsAKVyAaxkvvqQ02mLFafG3Cny84GaGh-Cyw04CdSLNtnNGxH5YnqeFMYE_ccsS5cOr6AuZDIHxc_A/s640/blogger-image-603345621.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEIrl-qLJPhAQAumVfKpg_ap3lJgDx6Z7KDAjIInGyiVfDbgp88KVEeuVtMsAKVyAaxkvvqQ02mLFafG3Cny84GaGh-Cyw04CdSLNtnNGxH5YnqeFMYE_ccsS5cOr6AuZDIHxc_A/s640/blogger-image-603345621.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs6WXi9pOS_2UrzIe_sAXR5EOqs1VjQvNZQeuQdcNCOAjKqLMOBK5lgbSUx9A6ZF63bKq6iw7J3G966D1unlc_S6g5opokjdPz4G2jOkR9_aIPuiVGb5bgaSw2y0Ieg-N_TAIJfg/s640/blogger-image-1213482993.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs6WXi9pOS_2UrzIe_sAXR5EOqs1VjQvNZQeuQdcNCOAjKqLMOBK5lgbSUx9A6ZF63bKq6iw7J3G966D1unlc_S6g5opokjdPz4G2jOkR9_aIPuiVGb5bgaSw2y0Ieg-N_TAIJfg/s640/blogger-image-1213482993.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHz3mNxm2JJDjbksIvqRG2nb06chvqaS8ZP0v5XZHdlnBttSnv2lb1XgZctQK29G112uhjImbU5_KtDkj2jGGnhD2KTUqN7HsmrVqdZ0VwIoX5E4AQbGPfU8ZOdmR7kAOku1Q-Fw/s640/blogger-image-106340202.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHz3mNxm2JJDjbksIvqRG2nb06chvqaS8ZP0v5XZHdlnBttSnv2lb1XgZctQK29G112uhjImbU5_KtDkj2jGGnhD2KTUqN7HsmrVqdZ0VwIoX5E4AQbGPfU8ZOdmR7kAOku1Q-Fw/s640/blogger-image-106340202.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Sanchi is about 48km north east of Bhopal, a journey of about an hour, on good tarmac, eventful only for a collision we had with an enraged (and very large) water bison who had been having a spat with another of its kind. Our driver swerved to avoid a head-on collision, but the animal put a big dent in the rear offside of our jeep, and smashed the rear quarter light. No significant damage to us passengers, although some aches for one us tomorrow methinks. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Anyway, after that little bit of excitement we crossed the Tropic of Cancer, and headed through rich arable country, wheat being mechanically harvested, bordered by numerous sandstone bluffs. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM-iijqOCBoHVYuYfoNiHriCOiU-bCmR7nYXAXCOeL1N4_dGhPxX__SLgYmaKaiKCBbQmf5OTGfaPfCSpztqGFb2ZDroTlzX-ya1EJeRO6ORnvNKMpLPspB39kAKB_56207CRLxw/s640/blogger-image--976612752.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM-iijqOCBoHVYuYfoNiHriCOiU-bCmR7nYXAXCOeL1N4_dGhPxX__SLgYmaKaiKCBbQmf5OTGfaPfCSpztqGFb2ZDroTlzX-ya1EJeRO6ORnvNKMpLPspB39kAKB_56207CRLxw/s640/blogger-image--976612752.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Sanchi is a delight. Guides are employed by the Archeological Survey of India, and we had a good tour, viewing the original stupas, associated monasteries that followed during the Mahāyāna and Vajrayana evolutions, and observing the development of Buddhist iconography as the site continued its pre-eminence through to the 12th century CE. It's a beautiful setting up on a hill and nicely maintained too. There were no other western tourists in sight, perhaps due to the soaring temperatures, today around 36C.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">There's also a museum, showing pictures drawn immediately after its discovery by British military officers in the 1800s and then completely overgrown, and housing many early Buddha images and artefacts. A good spot for Buddha enthusiasts!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS1AM2somrbDR07A5lXDgqAUUrhZVvwCmMs4K1b0kFl_XA-ncgZbWn-WwWvCI7PsVOAhGLHABgTC-bkInFrcxXgYQa9R2Yp3SGvqog_Iq7LKgjbebmPMUDXfJsqJHsHUpMWDRqlw/s640/blogger-image--890157861.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS1AM2somrbDR07A5lXDgqAUUrhZVvwCmMs4K1b0kFl_XA-ncgZbWn-WwWvCI7PsVOAhGLHABgTC-bkInFrcxXgYQa9R2Yp3SGvqog_Iq7LKgjbebmPMUDXfJsqJHsHUpMWDRqlw/s640/blogger-image--890157861.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQH5qmbHy85bC2jX01ltxBXvBvGXA0UrLPznsNFQpjllfCtOvQxReTzerNH345-3zzHmzhVNLDd5fcDKOcDnuybi_eGTZU7rW9vemTir03igsObIJOOgEej14ZeV5V18Q1TQtU-A/s640/blogger-image-1284156657.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQH5qmbHy85bC2jX01ltxBXvBvGXA0UrLPznsNFQpjllfCtOvQxReTzerNH345-3zzHmzhVNLDd5fcDKOcDnuybi_eGTZU7rW9vemTir03igsObIJOOgEej14ZeV5V18Q1TQtU-A/s640/blogger-image-1284156657.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikNzRkhlWwP0hggbJqT6V__L0bKAditgzRfKfzbbM_doUX58yjVqocugb2_q__uUAvQn_oC8zxGY8nELZwQBFMwh_A8KP3zzVvBZuQKTXEX18SO_QkZdESAleCiBHxmYbNUzlpMg/s640/blogger-image--1942260368.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikNzRkhlWwP0hggbJqT6V__L0bKAditgzRfKfzbbM_doUX58yjVqocugb2_q__uUAvQn_oC8zxGY8nELZwQBFMwh_A8KP3zzVvBZuQKTXEX18SO_QkZdESAleCiBHxmYbNUzlpMg/s640/blogger-image--1942260368.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz8b6g34M8csQjaJP6ku8LjeIXE-SOzBSeZIqZ348yDHkFflhqILU-4okveHQRg4cnQdtzfB9ZwZIuQmD6UNK7tTnO8XGv90CZt_QXZdLd7v8094IO-wLPdhD2rxOvW1R9kGn7tg/s640/blogger-image-320748407.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz8b6g34M8csQjaJP6ku8LjeIXE-SOzBSeZIqZ348yDHkFflhqILU-4okveHQRg4cnQdtzfB9ZwZIuQmD6UNK7tTnO8XGv90CZt_QXZdLd7v8094IO-wLPdhD2rxOvW1R9kGn7tg/s640/blogger-image-320748407.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-b2ZiGVFbxIOrJh0thj2d8Yg3oIw369kWBofzd0SnG-Q65hZQcZ1nAb16jg3W_S6JFIRzZoWTiY2yxzTo0kvaxriMjmUDuqGwz2UVAehGoKblGyWQ_sLXb1Batir_GS7ZnQYFdA/s640/blogger-image--1773846739.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-b2ZiGVFbxIOrJh0thj2d8Yg3oIw369kWBofzd0SnG-Q65hZQcZ1nAb16jg3W_S6JFIRzZoWTiY2yxzTo0kvaxriMjmUDuqGwz2UVAehGoKblGyWQ_sLXb1Batir_GS7ZnQYFdA/s640/blogger-image--1773846739.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSJf_dp__V8HD5Xprd9YH1zlr5VRkFQawgielvkd9hrZb0Ion5QXXaIFHDMx764PbpyU00nRUDFFwz7hilpgckGNyf4hIdlTaClQqP4eVTk4lhwxXh6MmZU258EX3cc8Y6xJ8_sA/s640/blogger-image-669065361.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSJf_dp__V8HD5Xprd9YH1zlr5VRkFQawgielvkd9hrZb0Ion5QXXaIFHDMx764PbpyU00nRUDFFwz7hilpgckGNyf4hIdlTaClQqP4eVTk4lhwxXh6MmZU258EX3cc8Y6xJ8_sA/s640/blogger-image-669065361.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCSMR1W4XZnfxzS72u9w1XIhVVChlLKwbIgWWjM2-reXRehaaR6kEO1_DQIlyhy3e_FU8aaBONW_XSN3Clal6LjZLUtuzdz7nVbepVVdhyomI0RTS_be-pb3KuPTYzLPaRh2OjWA/s640/blogger-image--495692951.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCSMR1W4XZnfxzS72u9w1XIhVVChlLKwbIgWWjM2-reXRehaaR6kEO1_DQIlyhy3e_FU8aaBONW_XSN3Clal6LjZLUtuzdz7nVbepVVdhyomI0RTS_be-pb3KuPTYzLPaRh2OjWA/s640/blogger-image--495692951.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglcaKSaFrfGDw1PSuuYOBR1Mld6Ptvdb3THFO7sexF1FCXkBwMwmY1QxyLwmymWD2nYJ46UjW40eKWWp1nuv2-bcG0f1ApnU9Ukw_s5I7yPhxyMIqYMf9nUi0moXOGHUHLm-iopg/s640/blogger-image--756061086.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglcaKSaFrfGDw1PSuuYOBR1Mld6Ptvdb3THFO7sexF1FCXkBwMwmY1QxyLwmymWD2nYJ46UjW40eKWWp1nuv2-bcG0f1ApnU9Ukw_s5I7yPhxyMIqYMf9nUi0moXOGHUHLm-iopg/s640/blogger-image--756061086.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJMkQinLt2yjwXqdcYLv_IiCswGac2w73MSeH7dg4FxnqM-u7MCa6axk4__yQy7pmyuhPNm0h442tINOLqI-ucEnbOxpcYVbdc9E6blP2USxdnMFDTuZlhVF8qlz-A-DTDMgsuvg/s640/blogger-image--1611691162.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJMkQinLt2yjwXqdcYLv_IiCswGac2w73MSeH7dg4FxnqM-u7MCa6axk4__yQy7pmyuhPNm0h442tINOLqI-ucEnbOxpcYVbdc9E6blP2USxdnMFDTuZlhVF8qlz-A-DTDMgsuvg/s640/blogger-image--1611691162.jpg"></a></div><br></div></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">We had a day to pass in Bhopal after our Sanchi exploration, as our train for Aurangabad leaves just after midnight. So, we took a tour of this city of 5 million souls, unfortunately best known for a major toxic gas explosion at the Union Carbide plant in December 1984 which killed an estimated 4,000 people and injured, some permanently, over half a million people. The site has now been cleared, the event marked by a modest but poignant memorial nearby. </span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghtF8fhffPeF9yKIC2dz7MnGkMmNC6VybyGUG8fu4jaKnipNHbSqPMl9hZk0eDRanz2n6UVb44gdVAA7MK3XvEw4Bv0cobHN9uwn06OSkHh_6XZ10dES0w6XC57tu8DsE5EgENVA/s640/blogger-image--1931637180.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghtF8fhffPeF9yKIC2dz7MnGkMmNC6VybyGUG8fu4jaKnipNHbSqPMl9hZk0eDRanz2n6UVb44gdVAA7MK3XvEw4Bv0cobHN9uwn06OSkHh_6XZ10dES0w6XC57tu8DsE5EgENVA/s640/blogger-image--1931637180.jpg"></a></div><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiS5EAcx_66cvUGfeNINx7uOwJYNachG-LOIDoa1z2riEzH0a54ZbNw1vn6Zpk2Mr-aK-i5TLHdtP1NccTze5Xb9aldF9Z3VENR6XSTDkNGoi4d_sBDlMxfFdDS7jrnod3WezEwQ/s640/blogger-image--1852880790.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiS5EAcx_66cvUGfeNINx7uOwJYNachG-LOIDoa1z2riEzH0a54ZbNw1vn6Zpk2Mr-aK-i5TLHdtP1NccTze5Xb9aldF9Z3VENR6XSTDkNGoi4d_sBDlMxfFdDS7jrnod3WezEwQ/s640/blogger-image--1852880790.jpg"></a></div><br></div>But today, Bhopal is a thriving, clean and plenty city to visit, the standard of roads and civic responsibility in stark contrast to the filth of Varanasi. The current chief minister of the state of Madyhar Pradesh is clearly an enlightened man, having reduced female infanticide dramatically over the last ten years by state funding of dowries, having supported farmers left destitute and hungry after flooding, and achieving a degree of cleanliness not seen in any other city seen so far on my travels around India. Litter is still there but minimal, roads are mainly well surfaced, and there is beautiful flower planting on the periphery of the city, especially adjacent to the large man made lake that wraps itself around the western side of the city. </span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Add to that some superb new museums, and I mean superb if the newly opened Tribal Museum is anything to go by, and some impressive mosques that were empty of tourists but nonetheless accessible and welcoming. Bhopal's population is 40% Sunni Muslim, the rest mainly Hindu.</span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">We visited the largest mosque in Asia, the Taj-ul-Masajid, built over the period 1868-1991, one side of which borders a large lake planted with water chestnut. </span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPR96RElnqRKkBT71HRhVU0EI2ZtKZjIHoRtxHqj8kJthtHW7M4cToRIEoqigr-WcW8l26LXpTT67nAUVgyG-YVi7CVzarOu_o8GjgPzzM0xxGdTz-D0e6tMr5krr9G9bEMQP__w/s640/blogger-image--1314488346.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPR96RElnqRKkBT71HRhVU0EI2ZtKZjIHoRtxHqj8kJthtHW7M4cToRIEoqigr-WcW8l26LXpTT67nAUVgyG-YVi7CVzarOu_o8GjgPzzM0xxGdTz-D0e6tMr5krr9G9bEMQP__w/s640/blogger-image--1314488346.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrwWYlQzxbouvhmEVSUxQJ0mlW81d65AnGRIRLl6HLNEDIspijtuvIKdTfB5xI38CRH7P49mQH0-ZPy8iFUdDUZrUjf1OxfL-RmPRhREQrg3DtRSs5ec6QC4wk6j-DZPconjJETA/s640/blogger-image-2089696204.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrwWYlQzxbouvhmEVSUxQJ0mlW81d65AnGRIRLl6HLNEDIspijtuvIKdTfB5xI38CRH7P49mQH0-ZPy8iFUdDUZrUjf1OxfL-RmPRhREQrg3DtRSs5ec6QC4wk6j-DZPconjJETA/s640/blogger-image-2089696204.jpg"></a></div><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjaqkJFHoqyh5ZFyWJS_fdFtEnojeFOQyMvdtPD6V38ctcBG8ugLSRgNZnnRwpvlkxad-cEdzhdu3yag0p0hvhw98kqe0LiB9IgoJejjlQ8LaX7-lpL28Hkjf2cg9wSBHKo4CeWw/s640/blogger-image--1508408815.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjaqkJFHoqyh5ZFyWJS_fdFtEnojeFOQyMvdtPD6V38ctcBG8ugLSRgNZnnRwpvlkxad-cEdzhdu3yag0p0hvhw98kqe0LiB9IgoJejjlQ8LaX7-lpL28Hkjf2cg9wSBHKo4CeWw/s640/blogger-image--1508408815.jpg"></a></div><br></span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">And we also dropped in on the Jama Masjid, built in 1730 by the then female ruler ('Begum'), accessed via a hassle free and friendly bazaar. Completing our circuit of Central Bhopal opposite a fine bronze statue of Nehru, we visited Moti Masjid, completed in 1780 by another Begum. </span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoJH9bdwrgdoICy77z3k5op7bgbykJCffoL0jLViM-qmdwEVBc7vw_WvgHDFgm9t-PuEwxEVzyaQhdd51JLvEnzZbpouFrGo3NW0Y1m8iQ35eRGFbuE1b7I2ddhTjiDBF8X7Kgmw/s640/blogger-image-206605075.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoJH9bdwrgdoICy77z3k5op7bgbykJCffoL0jLViM-qmdwEVBc7vw_WvgHDFgm9t-PuEwxEVzyaQhdd51JLvEnzZbpouFrGo3NW0Y1m8iQ35eRGFbuE1b7I2ddhTjiDBF8X7Kgmw/s640/blogger-image-206605075.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzGwv9PdEBpe3zdJPyln_tebk2zh3ySA7iFkEYrHMfUBppNwcdfBmJJOZskU90abS106SEk1JbmOGqZ4uH5uKCi5XfZmsuXtS_t5ij1YJ3ZkDHQBbPukrojyIIqqxMoysBJrhqaw/s640/blogger-image--944994676.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzGwv9PdEBpe3zdJPyln_tebk2zh3ySA7iFkEYrHMfUBppNwcdfBmJJOZskU90abS106SEk1JbmOGqZ4uH5uKCi5XfZmsuXtS_t5ij1YJ3ZkDHQBbPukrojyIIqqxMoysBJrhqaw/s640/blogger-image--944994676.jpg"></a></div><br></div></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Returning to the hotel, we visited the excellent new Tribal Museum, with very impressive external and internal design standards, before a short tour along the southern fringe of the city's lake, fringed with wall murals and prodigious plantings of colourful bougainvillea. Impressive throughout.</span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">And then...another long train journey to look forward to, only 11.5 hours this time, so a glass of beer and a nice massage in the hotel spa enjoyed in readiness for another night on the Indian railway system.</span></div><div><br></div><div>The night on the railway system took a little longer, however. Our train, which originated 17 hours earlier in Amritsar in the far north west of India was an hour late, so a long wait in Bhopal's 'upper class' lounge (defined by clean toilets and only one cockroach spotted) ensued. The train was reasonably full, with many Sikhs who use this route to travel south to another of their famous Gurdwaras. Our bunks were in a compartment of 2+2, and laterally positioned so that the ride was akin to being on a small rowing boat side on to the current. </div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpkKQamXQXy79yu9CAK7KQ17USflnEoPlrtR8M2F-5OPQaqXs8v0WFiba7hdC-6u_Bw3CW_bNCZ_-1XhDZwf1gcXdF0U2FcYv49FrBgrbWzpxj5GvDHtOGjzHgCeOghls4PiLfdw/s640/blogger-image--1285955475.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpkKQamXQXy79yu9CAK7KQ17USflnEoPlrtR8M2F-5OPQaqXs8v0WFiba7hdC-6u_Bw3CW_bNCZ_-1XhDZwf1gcXdF0U2FcYv49FrBgrbWzpxj5GvDHtOGjzHgCeOghls4PiLfdw/s640/blogger-image--1285955475.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div>Anyway, fitful sleep was achieved and as we pressed further south into the state of Maharashtra the land became drier in places, interspersed with impressive rock outcrops, almost desert like in places. The agriculture is very different here too, with fields of sunflower, cotton, maize and sugar cane on the flatter ground.</div><div>We arrived in Aurangabad in Maharasthra state (400km north east of Mumbai) at about midday, and were whisked to our accomodation, the huge Lemon Tree Hotel, for a quick freshen up before heading for our next objective, the Ellora Caves, about an hours drive away. Aurangabad is a city of 1.5m people, with a good industrial base encouraged by cheap land and cheap labour, so Johnson & Johnson, Skoda and Fosters Lager all have facilities here. The traffic is heavy throughout the city, but when the open road was reached we were into expansive landscapes punctuated by basalt hills and outcrops.</div><div>But it was the spectacle of Ellora we had come to see, and it did not disappoint. Set in the Charanandri Hills, this UNESCO World Heritage Site has 34 temples and monasteries hewn from the fine grained basalt rock, five of which are Jain, seventeen are Hindu and twelve are Buddhist. The juxtaposition of these sites of worship clearly illustrate a marvellous period of religious tolerance in ancient Indian history.</div><div>It's about 30km to Ellora from Aurangabad and the journey takes you into the Western Ghats past the impressive Daulatabad Fort, set on top of a prominent basalt outcrop, and surrounded by extensive fortifications. We didn't visit as we only had time to see Ellora, and the prospect of climbing 750 steps to get the top somehow seemed unattractive in the 36C heat!</div><div>We started our tour of Ellora with a visit to the Jain temples, carved out of solid rock in the 9th and 10th centuries, and attributable to the Digambara sect. Although the central figure looks like the Buddha, it is Mahavira, the 24th in the Jain lineage.</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz-jOTGf22l0X2TyKx9EOygZiPbEXKeQXnIDRfnvBO6J89HHG9FPNV9uMZQ3TtwrTpCnElj_anNm4LpbNioF9wbW_cxHPB-Eu4gSngphr0rcS-z4IFMOg4Wr38JoFSOCVF8tAYhA/s640/blogger-image--259009247.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz-jOTGf22l0X2TyKx9EOygZiPbEXKeQXnIDRfnvBO6J89HHG9FPNV9uMZQ3TtwrTpCnElj_anNm4LpbNioF9wbW_cxHPB-Eu4gSngphr0rcS-z4IFMOg4Wr38JoFSOCVF8tAYhA/s640/blogger-image--259009247.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ6gtHeRGEI-lsHQArsXWcavv0mNIbJpRL-lZBvK7IuChPkwNIrgblTYZRT5rbMWbtB_-zQ9YReY2-PkNNxoHt9vGIfYEjOG6r8ekVwN9KrWsi7UjKnW7quMTD_IDHCtLTkO_aoA/s640/blogger-image--1090320326.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ6gtHeRGEI-lsHQArsXWcavv0mNIbJpRL-lZBvK7IuChPkwNIrgblTYZRT5rbMWbtB_-zQ9YReY2-PkNNxoHt9vGIfYEjOG6r8ekVwN9KrWsi7UjKnW7quMTD_IDHCtLTkO_aoA/s640/blogger-image--1090320326.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCW6SP15zyTgjsWPAie4htYjcQvsh1cL6_m0pPZZipTzC7hq61y3_morQ8VSql9Zj9FEuUUcK8-kWb0brA0sBM2kUbqH-X9flMEaHD8kulUmS5RV-WCoOZvKXY_IZMN9lCKIQUKA/s640/blogger-image--750253527.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCW6SP15zyTgjsWPAie4htYjcQvsh1cL6_m0pPZZipTzC7hq61y3_morQ8VSql9Zj9FEuUUcK8-kWb0brA0sBM2kUbqH-X9flMEaHD8kulUmS5RV-WCoOZvKXY_IZMN9lCKIQUKA/s640/blogger-image--750253527.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Some visitors from Gujerat who seemed very keen to see their picture on my camera!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The Hindu temples occupy centre stage in Ellora. Built over 200 years from mid 6th century to late 8th century by carving out rock from the top and sides, before the detailed excavation and carving of the intricate iconography, these structures are truly impressive. The principal site, Cave 16, best known as Kailasa, involved the removal of 200,000 tonnes of rock and took 100 years in the making. The Hindu temples here are mainly Shaivite, and the Kailas temple resembles a huge chariot, with the core temple designed to resemble Mount Kailas. This site, carved from a single rock, covers an area twice that of the Parthenon in Athens, truly remarkable.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilBWINbSbAOPI8ujo4voecjsDMjZyGPTlyIZUF4xBeM5b6GCCvkdcBrpVPWie_kMCr_GiuyEXnvMy5eruAYWcmMGRhAabZMiNraPp8XzB_oaoCa2sudpwGYSKsKS58zSqfkRdS0w/s640/blogger-image--1119888781.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilBWINbSbAOPI8ujo4voecjsDMjZyGPTlyIZUF4xBeM5b6GCCvkdcBrpVPWie_kMCr_GiuyEXnvMy5eruAYWcmMGRhAabZMiNraPp8XzB_oaoCa2sudpwGYSKsKS58zSqfkRdS0w/s640/blogger-image--1119888781.jpg"></a></div></div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKMlGm0cMc5Nwn8h2Muf6JXen1xE8nL0kYoTNan9jqltLacGMzhv3qJmfvIOpwKy0CckRaft5nctHnZk2-OziSmQGrpWYeElYkRhPGZSveyFKkTeFE6k9BqWx1w7cx18XvGQuHgQ/s640/blogger-image-1570855181.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKMlGm0cMc5Nwn8h2Muf6JXen1xE8nL0kYoTNan9jqltLacGMzhv3qJmfvIOpwKy0CckRaft5nctHnZk2-OziSmQGrpWYeElYkRhPGZSveyFKkTeFE6k9BqWx1w7cx18XvGQuHgQ/s640/blogger-image-1570855181.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The Kailas temple, Kailasanatha</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZeD2uMHuhdx4tUd3-9ziDPaiaa9ohW1K8kmKOOKUV8StHZy9qT7cI082p_U63rHUPB2C9H2XLA4EuSF4orDRkESFqX3RHl6xF3-36TmvE0Lv3UPXgNHxfs50TcsUjVf4fkpySAA/s640/blogger-image-292477991.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZeD2uMHuhdx4tUd3-9ziDPaiaa9ohW1K8kmKOOKUV8StHZy9qT7cI082p_U63rHUPB2C9H2XLA4EuSF4orDRkESFqX3RHl6xF3-36TmvE0Lv3UPXgNHxfs50TcsUjVf4fkpySAA/s640/blogger-image-292477991.jpg"></a></div></div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijWQEDkc2ruwFMutRBetCh3JNvVzUNXrfI1X_mS4961r01dMyjmMF_PSRXst-EwvMZaUGPoV-hZdTGPSyWryAT05-WIDsNxFDXZO-NUnswXx7-u8NEB0TS3s6WXjcRyGTTsV9b-w/s640/blogger-image-922749132.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijWQEDkc2ruwFMutRBetCh3JNvVzUNXrfI1X_mS4961r01dMyjmMF_PSRXst-EwvMZaUGPoV-hZdTGPSyWryAT05-WIDsNxFDXZO-NUnswXx7-u8NEB0TS3s6WXjcRyGTTsV9b-w/s640/blogger-image-922749132.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3hI-csnRvgCuWR_nhXmPhiNo2SGvJ-V_4rFtho1-Ka1Ec9dukmvta-JpAPO_v0r1L5UrirCfj32SeJ82-dCsAeBF-GBwT6WlYZBCULmhCzY03gieCDeeJD7rvkrJxSKo9Ua7_TA/s640/blogger-image--1773516802.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3hI-csnRvgCuWR_nhXmPhiNo2SGvJ-V_4rFtho1-Ka1Ec9dukmvta-JpAPO_v0r1L5UrirCfj32SeJ82-dCsAeBF-GBwT6WlYZBCULmhCzY03gieCDeeJD7rvkrJxSKo9Ua7_TA/s640/blogger-image--1773516802.jpg"></a></div>An iconic figure in Indian art - Ravana attempting to lift Mount Kailas, the abode of Lord Shiva</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK-Qbsjd7ym9enaHFaeo9iKhDVB4jMy1fP8vXuFHJ-TvsBFCwx7N6P1CKndA3DER_jPtowb5TNzIVIjbPTfQiZb7spO_uEUTcCcQ_IF4DxFTDQMyGDscUvZ3h9NaPbjKPG8z3Lzg/s640/blogger-image--1304446357.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK-Qbsjd7ym9enaHFaeo9iKhDVB4jMy1fP8vXuFHJ-TvsBFCwx7N6P1CKndA3DER_jPtowb5TNzIVIjbPTfQiZb7spO_uEUTcCcQ_IF4DxFTDQMyGDscUvZ3h9NaPbjKPG8z3Lzg/s640/blogger-image--1304446357.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Figures from the Ramayana epic</div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHOb70NOTv-6Gz8gFKSJqpzNon5wv1bwpb8KuZaUgcoirFGjlVHVqGjxHq7ij2gisSMwxmmxrTma687KNa0nIKENASmHsQgARM3vpxT2l12DIllbSS6f41Ku_v-juNuw3b0w4kfA/s640/blogger-image-762092801.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHOb70NOTv-6Gz8gFKSJqpzNon5wv1bwpb8KuZaUgcoirFGjlVHVqGjxHq7ij2gisSMwxmmxrTma687KNa0nIKENASmHsQgARM3vpxT2l12DIllbSS6f41Ku_v-juNuw3b0w4kfA/s640/blogger-image-762092801.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxpc9QLvciFPtjKLRWKg-de9qK-7xDUqq3BF0_ITbDD1kv_dBVwOXnzZNEmQFdAciqOZmB8fNN-L6ovLoJVaLHaB9BMIze-4AdkDOC7TEPPuPjmMlLYR4g5FsNfAIm-FISPlWMcQ/s640/blogger-image--1031602299.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxpc9QLvciFPtjKLRWKg-de9qK-7xDUqq3BF0_ITbDD1kv_dBVwOXnzZNEmQFdAciqOZmB8fNN-L6ovLoJVaLHaB9BMIze-4AdkDOC7TEPPuPjmMlLYR4g5FsNfAIm-FISPlWMcQ/s640/blogger-image--1031602299.jpg"></a></div></div>Giant pillar representing the 'glory' of the Hindu pantheon</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0PNq1VbUywJvnzUFkHkF7u1THqVAoD9E75D_g1bQffHT0SgcvOT3UJKf7bEPdAI-45fByJP-9pJPtrNTGWL73Qr8BpbJ8v0k9LNX8pmZ77poRtFn1j_N1x-3lMdLgA9HLaluSvQ/s640/blogger-image-1615084058.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0PNq1VbUywJvnzUFkHkF7u1THqVAoD9E75D_g1bQffHT0SgcvOT3UJKf7bEPdAI-45fByJP-9pJPtrNTGWL73Qr8BpbJ8v0k9LNX8pmZ77poRtFn1j_N1x-3lMdLgA9HLaluSvQ/s640/blogger-image-1615084058.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaUSkF69ziu1AXMvQkMvYKBY22NRoZOYzdnOat1VKXHquphNNB2y9Xv-k3A815_KuJZtall1E_jE8S8-Tjl0OCGyLAKej1kxWWYPkoKhky8mAYDdObFrPI0n7LrWPh2nXqouuGgA/s640/blogger-image--627734922.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaUSkF69ziu1AXMvQkMvYKBY22NRoZOYzdnOat1VKXHquphNNB2y9Xv-k3A815_KuJZtall1E_jE8S8-Tjl0OCGyLAKej1kxWWYPkoKhky8mAYDdObFrPI0n7LrWPh2nXqouuGgA/s640/blogger-image--627734922.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMOO5ojdgz3sk0xNvHCwxE2yYTkrSzNiDRZoi_yfMZsAfk5UStxiU1xbNeTiybxErlsR-pqPEqcaGOyv9I8kiriuNWBJNeVV8ngfOKLU5-F_hKZ9fHgygcHNPgMAVBFPCXUIr8tg/s640/blogger-image-1183848689.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMOO5ojdgz3sk0xNvHCwxE2yYTkrSzNiDRZoi_yfMZsAfk5UStxiU1xbNeTiybxErlsR-pqPEqcaGOyv9I8kiriuNWBJNeVV8ngfOKLU5-F_hKZ9fHgygcHNPgMAVBFPCXUIr8tg/s640/blogger-image-1183848689.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVedXj-oTuYmP29INwdMJMdg4X0DKQYeyyAmFdhN21QBstxCgzLXH8OHmehqbW_8pYJcr-tj991TWl3YUYy5Dygc3pxQJxZkel5eb182ajpprJ6Gw_PFo2A6fxzF4W0QvomKHJeA/s640/blogger-image-1184607317.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVedXj-oTuYmP29INwdMJMdg4X0DKQYeyyAmFdhN21QBstxCgzLXH8OHmehqbW_8pYJcr-tj991TWl3YUYy5Dygc3pxQJxZkel5eb182ajpprJ6Gw_PFo2A6fxzF4W0QvomKHJeA/s640/blogger-image-1184607317.jpg"></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Great views of Kailasanatha from the top of the rock</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnHEp5uU91m3eHZ9gzVIZFZKCwX6mjdwsfwFcRXVJvK6PVSQeeh_t5ClO2m15BGXrfqR3f4na3Ds9xXtWon9n84KnMCUWLv1gKKQyWb7uY792zlgpk1YiN2w8FAaHO2pJPz6bUWw/s640/blogger-image--1628504817.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnHEp5uU91m3eHZ9gzVIZFZKCwX6mjdwsfwFcRXVJvK6PVSQeeh_t5ClO2m15BGXrfqR3f4na3Ds9xXtWon9n84KnMCUWLv1gKKQyWb7uY792zlgpk1YiN2w8FAaHO2pJPz6bUWw/s640/blogger-image--1628504817.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">And, finally we walked on to see the Buddhist monasteries (viharas) and the single prayer hall (chaitya), also carved out of solid rock a little after the Hindu constructions, around 630-700CE. This was the time when Mahāyāna Buddhists were well established throughout India, and the iconography has the Buddha (Śākyamuni) surrounded by bodhisattvas and other celestial manifestations. In some of the halls the craftsmen of the day recreated the look of wood in the carved stone.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTeyHed3SUtW9fSD0duGAF8XHmd0px8NukEpcnToo2jbuFROMDTLhwEnx2KzLbTH8VWF-K7_6NrrqoiiGeNbY9u4-S4OnsskJ4asep50LYLpVVC976OHyxextjNpZwNpaZtqzSOw/s640/blogger-image-121198711.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTeyHed3SUtW9fSD0duGAF8XHmd0px8NukEpcnToo2jbuFROMDTLhwEnx2KzLbTH8VWF-K7_6NrrqoiiGeNbY9u4-S4OnsskJ4asep50LYLpVVC976OHyxextjNpZwNpaZtqzSOw/s640/blogger-image-121198711.jpg"></a></div>Cave 12, 'Tin Tala' - a multi storied Buddhist monastery, with sleeping quarters, kitchens, living spaces and a chapel</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSQTWHMwZuBNu9bIwtEVkRGcLAZPGmnX5Cnt3GGPdoOzu-8qFVq5VDfB81VPmyMKJjj78n0dg6_p5QSQF9pCXYXoeNjn6lEIkwpEO0dDtFGiiMYEx3l1FMo4IYbup4-d5JbBF1YA/s640/blogger-image--1032187356.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSQTWHMwZuBNu9bIwtEVkRGcLAZPGmnX5Cnt3GGPdoOzu-8qFVq5VDfB81VPmyMKJjj78n0dg6_p5QSQF9pCXYXoeNjn6lEIkwpEO0dDtFGiiMYEx3l1FMo4IYbup4-d5JbBF1YA/s640/blogger-image--1032187356.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJBCm7rvKEGazdEO7A5KWwun-vigGzpQLVudf_Lusx_KiQq-SzIPUHaKs3PyZxuuMAXgrTSLfGd-_QIa21Xp0lZumyQfTlcp6U5Wilt7tav0AEk7ilJrLd3PRJGJ7pF4w44VE_oQ/s640/blogger-image-325148415.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJBCm7rvKEGazdEO7A5KWwun-vigGzpQLVudf_Lusx_KiQq-SzIPUHaKs3PyZxuuMAXgrTSLfGd-_QIa21Xp0lZumyQfTlcp6U5Wilt7tav0AEk7ilJrLd3PRJGJ7pF4w44VE_oQ/s640/blogger-image-325148415.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP_lupM189EioZv0Fsl2gfXgusPymPkCTknbVEHR4FEkjScR2D3Q3RBaTGNeo3sOXSHCJuWPJ6TDHFv02rMEfdn45uPcFVdzTHyc7MxYtLztHFvYnza_NxO56rpnjUTJK4TGUhAg/s640/blogger-image-1658211865.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP_lupM189EioZv0Fsl2gfXgusPymPkCTknbVEHR4FEkjScR2D3Q3RBaTGNeo3sOXSHCJuWPJ6TDHFv02rMEfdn45uPcFVdzTHyc7MxYtLztHFvYnza_NxO56rpnjUTJK4TGUhAg/s640/blogger-image-1658211865.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn9PZguRsgIFVorZDe4iiUpZWXzktVBJOW5a_hjIrDYlexmFy8EEM4_ZC-BWV3xH1As-jXCpl6ma7gtVoVhmi1A4WDuHhuQiDgKk6xE-ArNhmQVPNTD9MD2Kc2mVcLvky7hPcR7g/s640/blogger-image-1041587203.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn9PZguRsgIFVorZDe4iiUpZWXzktVBJOW5a_hjIrDYlexmFy8EEM4_ZC-BWV3xH1As-jXCpl6ma7gtVoVhmi1A4WDuHhuQiDgKk6xE-ArNhmQVPNTD9MD2Kc2mVcLvky7hPcR7g/s640/blogger-image-1041587203.jpg"></a></div>Cave 10, the 'Carpenter's Cave', also known as 'Visvakarma', a chaitya (prayer) hall, with ceiling carved to give the impression of wooden beams</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvlUktSz4qGybHfXkj26408WsZwXJIzalyOwHyjW6AXVsJTVsdczrCsZkschWjbG8NQWjSNnvCioDDEdmDLzWnZWz7EPreflwtIp-8njrQkH2BE0z3-wTfpyO66nWILneEBR76_Q/s640/blogger-image--11247365.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvlUktSz4qGybHfXkj26408WsZwXJIzalyOwHyjW6AXVsJTVsdczrCsZkschWjbG8NQWjSNnvCioDDEdmDLzWnZWz7EPreflwtIp-8njrQkH2BE0z3-wTfpyO66nWILneEBR76_Q/s640/blogger-image--11247365.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv73BEm_dhz8WOitSkJFK_Dp0hROR3tsqHRIwwZH-nnJErtH9GzZ8OgeeJPDfOYMoeXObHRfMXGpbhxtAOYL8v6-nEoe7LCrGVn3CfVByh2v1mhA3JhCLRFaBT-sm3QZzDCsO-Yw/s640/blogger-image-1220735260.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv73BEm_dhz8WOitSkJFK_Dp0hROR3tsqHRIwwZH-nnJErtH9GzZ8OgeeJPDfOYMoeXObHRfMXGpbhxtAOYL8v6-nEoe7LCrGVn3CfVByh2v1mhA3JhCLRFaBT-sm3QZzDCsO-Yw/s640/blogger-image-1220735260.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTwNkRrhdpndOEvKr02jGx5A11dJrzUiPmMZqr0EyKBs4huzfkd5X0Ua6LsaeXCDv24DyvOr6XZNgQ1RUhlfQzvDtXZugWG67h9B545dazhORBBBT67vOqPkZNdGyJjf1oSEBIyg/s640/blogger-image--1921440447.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTwNkRrhdpndOEvKr02jGx5A11dJrzUiPmMZqr0EyKBs4huzfkd5X0Ua6LsaeXCDv24DyvOr6XZNgQ1RUhlfQzvDtXZugWG67h9B545dazhORBBBT67vOqPkZNdGyJjf1oSEBIyg/s640/blogger-image--1921440447.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Śākyamuni Buddha flanked by Avalokiteśvara and Maitreya, the future Buddha. He is in teaching posture, vyakhyana mudra.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoro5qCydZZ47zn7tJ8bq49-vf8P4qHuScxNqQMwgpjQ1bFYSS9MSQpWLIEXlj_1lM5xMjhLk5ZLg1eg3o8zSqkd86HCEQMlylQnD68SJdT2caLtGx2w98PxMhkcti59Ryg8upUQ/s640/blogger-image--2125401504.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoro5qCydZZ47zn7tJ8bq49-vf8P4qHuScxNqQMwgpjQ1bFYSS9MSQpWLIEXlj_1lM5xMjhLk5ZLg1eg3o8zSqkd86HCEQMlylQnD68SJdT2caLtGx2w98PxMhkcti59Ryg8upUQ/s640/blogger-image--2125401504.jpg"></a></div><br></div>Suitably rested overnight, we headed to the rock monasteries and prayer halls at Ajanta, 115km (about two hours) north west of Aurangabad. Constructed in two phases, firstly in 2nd century BCE during the period of the early sangha, and with further development between 460-480CE during the Mahāyāna phase. The wall and ceiling paintings here are remarkably well preserved for their age, having been applied by the 'dry fresco' method - painting applied to a dry plaster surface. The preservation of this remarkable site was aided by the fact that the caves were abandoned sometime after the end of the reign of Harishena (c.480CE) and remain undisturbed and hidden by vegetation until 1819 when a British military officer, out hunting, stumbled across them. It was adopted by the Archeological Society of India, and more recently the Maharashtra Tourist Board has developed a huge visitor centre, complete with full sized replicas of four of the key caves. We visited this briefly, and it's a very large project and the quality of the reproduction of the actual caves has to be seen to be believed. 'White elephant' comes to mind though, as currently it's been sidelined due to political diffrences between the various authorities and is away from the tourist bazaar that guards the main entrance.</div><div>All this apart, Ajanta is a triumph of human ingenuity, sheer effort and artistic brilliance.</div><div>The early caves were hewn out of the cliffs during the Satavahana period (100BCE to 100CE) and are a mixture of viharas and chaitya. At this time the representation of the Buddha was aniconic, and he was represented by a stupa rather than a figurative sculpture.</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB8LDDZre7YbwfNIPa-r2ZXtZqC9SCfp01qbWOMxRmGF3PMEoNz_LRt2akMYYgrldZ0zh2T-A8e45MM-tetyR2JGgXPHYWcvmsmePrJCPA2H60MxjZ2ZoGriOc5Qp3hIOndAr92Q/s640/blogger-image--643403834.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB8LDDZre7YbwfNIPa-r2ZXtZqC9SCfp01qbWOMxRmGF3PMEoNz_LRt2akMYYgrldZ0zh2T-A8e45MM-tetyR2JGgXPHYWcvmsmePrJCPA2H60MxjZ2ZoGriOc5Qp3hIOndAr92Q/s640/blogger-image--643403834.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Ajanta, monasteries and temples cut into the cliffs above the horseshoe shaped gorge containing the Waghora river</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-fdXqtmHTCWcKoLpEZCWaYARcp7NsvRa83vF1R0Qttts71IlhaiOLzzDAY6PLZOse84MewapXa7fNqnrw5a7NO1luRfusTiuZm0I5fUBNtAEQJG1e3vrMKOY1NBf9nHolX28wwg/s640/blogger-image-15878857.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-fdXqtmHTCWcKoLpEZCWaYARcp7NsvRa83vF1R0Qttts71IlhaiOLzzDAY6PLZOse84MewapXa7fNqnrw5a7NO1luRfusTiuZm0I5fUBNtAEQJG1e3vrMKOY1NBf9nHolX28wwg/s640/blogger-image-15878857.jpg"></a></div>Fine carvings and wall paintings in Cave 2</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9_xYT3Pb4k7Itj1ShNjnq9-BXKVYfSstCjrc5aUXWBTWQssh9VnOIi80d0QL2AcaBDpjbJcDEmN3pgwlWpOoW9cHBp4OeXtgdt4nBb0O6UfA_6ibws2-QC6u6xRDCYKSCbIN3yQ/s640/blogger-image-1283196799.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9_xYT3Pb4k7Itj1ShNjnq9-BXKVYfSstCjrc5aUXWBTWQssh9VnOIi80d0QL2AcaBDpjbJcDEmN3pgwlWpOoW9cHBp4OeXtgdt4nBb0O6UfA_6ibws2-QC6u6xRDCYKSCbIN3yQ/s640/blogger-image-1283196799.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div>The second construction phase of the Ajanta complex, creating 20 temples, came during the Vãkãtaka period, during the reign of Emperor Harishena. This occurred when Mahāyāna Buddhism was prevalent in India, and there were also some iconographic additions to the earlier temples, but in Ajanta it is the image of Śākyamuni Buddha that dominates, with some bodhisattvas as attendants. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Throughout Ajanta, the paintings illustrate tales of the previous lives of the Buddha, known as the Jatakas, and the story of the life and times of Śākyamuni Buddha.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizxCGUTv0pGPVPOcy_ClGPsDb6nYHN9SWiY57em-UvkCzqVaZ991E1QjhOFk35jo_8gHv6sSglbGqpzZDjOjOxOctaFptkMHewodVsIS-6GRYTZlqgIenUROHHIFfjY83HmyrL0w/s640/blogger-image--1122169732.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizxCGUTv0pGPVPOcy_ClGPsDb6nYHN9SWiY57em-UvkCzqVaZ991E1QjhOFk35jo_8gHv6sSglbGqpzZDjOjOxOctaFptkMHewodVsIS-6GRYTZlqgIenUROHHIFfjY83HmyrL0w/s640/blogger-image--1122169732.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr-TEZucyyAlvfuNqBHAIJwo4Pglfm5syNI2Rk8iRRpRdfa4Sc5AvoANxMlwK4J40Qd-EDQcxFjZKaDlguT2kI00ycr2_-pG85OjvFBzixhdDiZ6lJi77oLFPE_nTRK5I8uhBYDg/s640/blogger-image--758195852.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr-TEZucyyAlvfuNqBHAIJwo4Pglfm5syNI2Rk8iRRpRdfa4Sc5AvoANxMlwK4J40Qd-EDQcxFjZKaDlguT2kI00ycr2_-pG85OjvFBzixhdDiZ6lJi77oLFPE_nTRK5I8uhBYDg/s640/blogger-image--758195852.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhpl09PPNpQYh6PJXo5grsYUT4VGaAwkv2ji_oFYjewzoPJbtssjZa_DazA_7MZ6AGcK0aXFV9kA2ja4XHt45l2ao-1smi8GUYn6S2mvxormwrkNBI683n6wGQI2h7rFw1k8Lkhg/s640/blogger-image-180379883.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhpl09PPNpQYh6PJXo5grsYUT4VGaAwkv2ji_oFYjewzoPJbtssjZa_DazA_7MZ6AGcK0aXFV9kA2ja4XHt45l2ao-1smi8GUYn6S2mvxormwrkNBI683n6wGQI2h7rFw1k8Lkhg/s640/blogger-image-180379883.jpg"></a></div>Cave 10, a chaitya hall, from the first phase of development. No figure of the Buddha was used at this time. The stupa represents him instead and is the object of veneration.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcc6_QFBbUEfOD_7LNAe29T2iR4dkjH9NT7ph2zH_-ADjnoMREl1cAGjRTjykgW76MMibNK4NQTRjTqGzTOMLk2WAk9WxGVSjaS6akysmRwQEGyoV_LO1tg3JSleizyOUq5iSkmg/s640/blogger-image--1909225493.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcc6_QFBbUEfOD_7LNAe29T2iR4dkjH9NT7ph2zH_-ADjnoMREl1cAGjRTjykgW76MMibNK4NQTRjTqGzTOMLk2WAk9WxGVSjaS6akysmRwQEGyoV_LO1tg3JSleizyOUq5iSkmg/s640/blogger-image--1909225493.jpg"></a></div>Cave 10, an early chaitya in which paintings were added following patron donations in the second period</div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><div class="separator" style="font-style: italic; clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDlZ6cqGhabBLeZ9uUWPdpiGQrmgIzjSl_5KxCQbzT9tIU0G2r38xfvmEdCazCAqOpc5L4TH_Phj8tkAp8HYtPTHdQ2I5F-9r5VNoAclqANq1ttsak4Y3heTu8jKS6KHX2T8FA0A/s640/blogger-image--677738931.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDlZ6cqGhabBLeZ9uUWPdpiGQrmgIzjSl_5KxCQbzT9tIU0G2r38xfvmEdCazCAqOpc5L4TH_Phj8tkAp8HYtPTHdQ2I5F-9r5VNoAclqANq1ttsak4Y3heTu8jKS6KHX2T8FA0A/s640/blogger-image--677738931.jpg"></a></div>More stupa representations of the Buddha in the earliest caves</span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="font-style: italic; clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-obPDCuP0qMo89pcIGxdOkMMLLNIlesl3n2aebDEl7vQsa1QTpfp6XvgvX1-IwiQ-O7BaWD5JWQkopXt_hvc8wiX7EzvDy-MIFZgEwPS94oMPEy5cbrUfyq51HiqFZuJXbPQx7A/s640/blogger-image-1784554956.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-obPDCuP0qMo89pcIGxdOkMMLLNIlesl3n2aebDEl7vQsa1QTpfp6XvgvX1-IwiQ-O7BaWD5JWQkopXt_hvc8wiX7EzvDy-MIFZgEwPS94oMPEy5cbrUfyq51HiqFZuJXbPQx7A/s640/blogger-image-1784554956.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">A typical vihara, square in shape, small dormitory cells cut into the walls, with a shrine at the rear featuring Śākyamuni Buddha. </div><br></div><div class="separator" style="font-style: italic; clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihRN0zRdDDf1EAHQ0QhsKKTHpPRfCpxy2iMWgXY8hLV2IgsvjdtX3eZm5T7EMfQZTUNdByR1VELeIJUPV7NkH1XqVwhN-elDJ9XFzIgB2fpxYxVHPWO4qIuBIyJWElOX-3u3s-Mg/s640/blogger-image--634271151.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihRN0zRdDDf1EAHQ0QhsKKTHpPRfCpxy2iMWgXY8hLV2IgsvjdtX3eZm5T7EMfQZTUNdByR1VELeIJUPV7NkH1XqVwhN-elDJ9XFzIgB2fpxYxVHPWO4qIuBIyJWElOX-3u3s-Mg/s640/blogger-image--634271151.jpg"></a></div><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><div class="separator" style="font-style: italic; clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4beC29_9xrbl01pYchZTwppV25MCSdAb_tiSDSXjswgIvXujYpJpcZEn9ev43792BSe5nw-gjAbogOn46CFcIGv1LymfnVzX1UzBU4HoMtLQbUlDk8d4rePaAsqOPkeLF0gW95Q/s640/blogger-image-167426728.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4beC29_9xrbl01pYchZTwppV25MCSdAb_tiSDSXjswgIvXujYpJpcZEn9ev43792BSe5nw-gjAbogOn46CFcIGv1LymfnVzX1UzBU4HoMtLQbUlDk8d4rePaAsqOPkeLF0gW95Q/s640/blogger-image-167426728.jpg"></a></div>Well preserved ceiling art</span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><i><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEishzL94uabac3kyjjOWtAwsgozJyAiL_E8nzXdGqc36nHwkd7tXLGz_iOMKF92o0O4TgfhhLWE7rjnYEe5TqiEGw0zwM-_eY6zaS-jOQqoHaPFWflfSAVEYp2DFhIW1HN4M9qzsg/s640/blogger-image--328179237.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEishzL94uabac3kyjjOWtAwsgozJyAiL_E8nzXdGqc36nHwkd7tXLGz_iOMKF92o0O4TgfhhLWE7rjnYEe5TqiEGw0zwM-_eY6zaS-jOQqoHaPFWflfSAVEYp2DFhIW1HN4M9qzsg/s640/blogger-image--328179237.jpg"></a></div><br></i></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><div class="separator" style="font-style: italic; clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhif4zg-GFiR8mo-O9EDi15ArQ7gZWrrx0pvTuhwtGnDEF-U6OJOtHnP0DI3u2T89lp5lYgI0AoWRSbhkibmLjhTHuPTAS2vm-1XM6YQwgn2vhOfJxmU7hKRQtzs8luN028m28DHA/s640/blogger-image-872601391.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhif4zg-GFiR8mo-O9EDi15ArQ7gZWrrx0pvTuhwtGnDEF-U6OJOtHnP0DI3u2T89lp5lYgI0AoWRSbhkibmLjhTHuPTAS2vm-1XM6YQwgn2vhOfJxmU7hKRQtzs8luN028m28DHA/s640/blogger-image-872601391.jpg"></a></div>Cave 19, a chaitya hall, with standing Buddha in front of a stupa</span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><i><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8-0kDnHgFCVdcFeMecVVlDOQao_Ip3AosHBFYQOmi412xrzHHs2gUh_OsBRSqpvioo6QwMXiPCxnZF4Bu-PfR1kULBz5zEIN73m3U-CjCBfpttzFckj3cvgKtvJ3kOwGekSUw2w/s640/blogger-image-1502698698.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8-0kDnHgFCVdcFeMecVVlDOQao_Ip3AosHBFYQOmi412xrzHHs2gUh_OsBRSqpvioo6QwMXiPCxnZF4Bu-PfR1kULBz5zEIN73m3U-CjCBfpttzFckj3cvgKtvJ3kOwGekSUw2w/s640/blogger-image-1502698698.jpg"></a></div><br></i></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><div class="separator" style="font-style: italic; clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgaBpsFlVu1l8aBkei3XjQyyhPcjhJUmAr3jMk9tZw8q587bhyaXony3N5mhvcRXyf6dNEv3_zy0aAFdxfK7yniolH0wfT5IVOyxWMYbKfCUtqQ5TH5KvhgcM67nPkwgKwx2bUvA/s640/blogger-image-429988849.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgaBpsFlVu1l8aBkei3XjQyyhPcjhJUmAr3jMk9tZw8q587bhyaXony3N5mhvcRXyf6dNEv3_zy0aAFdxfK7yniolH0wfT5IVOyxWMYbKfCUtqQ5TH5KvhgcM67nPkwgKwx2bUvA/s640/blogger-image-429988849.jpg"></a></div>Reclining Buddha, in <i>paranirvana</i>, in Cave 26</span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><div class="separator" style="font-style: italic; clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDrgaTD7l6BpWqraniEA162VaPBeZv1s1ujrZw8eR2-fi7gdgju7zqHjA10gnn3Vbso8zzMe6vdbwq_M0ic5_vMnpynz8AG10WtSUc6Dj1zzsOesWJAWjrPF8zMD7kcBN_l0nUPw/s640/blogger-image-1278248360.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDrgaTD7l6BpWqraniEA162VaPBeZv1s1ujrZw8eR2-fi7gdgju7zqHjA10gnn3Vbso8zzMe6vdbwq_M0ic5_vMnpynz8AG10WtSUc6Dj1zzsOesWJAWjrPF8zMD7kcBN_l0nUPw/s640/blogger-image-1278248360.jpg"></a></div>Cave 26, Buddhas and bodhisattvas lining the walkway around the stupa, a circumnambulation performed by Buddhists in a clockwise direction and known as <i>pradakshina</i></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><i><br></i></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><div class="separator" style="font-style: italic; clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfi33Yw9QtPYO0tsBrqj5TVSkpkw6Zz61IKlQ0qB5NoWsQ9-fHsdyygDxq-ayXZf1q4pXP3di_J4Pd0HYzeYDzgHJ-vD0gJ3CV0nmwHaj3W7j3-yqFLtGUp0QqQQTyIih643YdJg/s640/blogger-image--2016364844.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfi33Yw9QtPYO0tsBrqj5TVSkpkw6Zz61IKlQ0qB5NoWsQ9-fHsdyygDxq-ayXZf1q4pXP3di_J4Pd0HYzeYDzgHJ-vD0gJ3CV0nmwHaj3W7j3-yqFLtGUp0QqQQTyIih643YdJg/s640/blogger-image--2016364844.jpg"></a></div>Cave 24, half built, showing the method of construction, typically started by cutting a narrow tunnel at roof level, then expanded downwards and outwards</span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><div class="separator" style="font-style: italic; clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifcOlpvMQ25KwJ76d8P2O6MFbzAGK3jP06vbzvsYMeCdbGdSeD3pPlfQD-hbcEr1lhHdPCrLmPdaTKOQbDx5FbXnb9A_ko3G-xZa5d6z_ao3k_5Qq8fCLhqenfGpUSAd3RmkmuIg/s640/blogger-image--910276329.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifcOlpvMQ25KwJ76d8P2O6MFbzAGK3jP06vbzvsYMeCdbGdSeD3pPlfQD-hbcEr1lhHdPCrLmPdaTKOQbDx5FbXnb9A_ko3G-xZa5d6z_ao3k_5Qq8fCLhqenfGpUSAd3RmkmuIg/s640/blogger-image--910276329.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="font-style: italic; clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">And so we come to the end of this particular odyssey. A heady mix of ancient spirituality and modern Indian life. A flight from Aurangabad to Delhi, about two hours, and Delhi to London on BA...roast beef and a can or two of Fuller's London Pride are definitely on the agenda!</div></span></div><div><br></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9888425.post-86490865279263504832013-12-21T07:36:00.001+00:002013-12-24T13:36:33.522+00:00Gozo - December 2013<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Q. So, where have you been this time?</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A. Gozo</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Q. Where's that?</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A. It's a little island off the north west coast of Malta, so, south of Sicily and a couple of hundred miles north and east of the African coast.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Q. What are you doing there in December?</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A. Ah, well, here's the thing. Gales, plummeting temperatures, and all the pre-Christmas nonsense in the UK. Temperatures in Gozo in the mid to late 'teens, empty roads and paths to cycle and walk, with sea views all round. Combine that with good food, and a friendly welcome from the islanders, it's all you need to fight off the winter blues.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCHb1QbjAHeAjSXseKOYot7w7qRBoXOrib-5MzTLyHn2ua3jMGia31SemuIIREkoetUCz7DFm4W32xlzEFMJJp7z9EnF7lNkTKX0U38SkWBVaGY9hhP-b9pn2r3NXkINj9y_Be/s320/blogger-image--1902947830.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gozo's flag says it all...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">End of advert for the Maltese Tourist Board, who, incidentally, had handed me the longest market research questionnaire I'd ever seen when I landed at Malta's only airport a week or so earlier.</span></div>
</div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Seriously though, Gozo is a lovely spot, an island no more that 14 km by 8 km at the widest points, so easy to walk from north coast to south coast in a day, and with lanes so quiet, especially in the north and west of the island, that it seems like you're travelling in 'the land that time forgot'. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Once again I've travelled with <a href="http://www.headwater.com/" target="_blank">Headwater</a>, that likeable tour operator who organise independent walks and cycling routes throughout Europe, and have a penchant for selecting characterful hotels to stay in as you tour from point to point.</span></div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Overnights were spent in three hotels on the island. Ta' Cenc, beautifully situated near the cliff tops south of the little capital city of Victoria, amidst a heap of history - dolmen, cart tracks and ancient temples close by. I had a couple of nights at the 5* Kempinski, just outside San Lawrenz to the west of the island, where service was of a high standard and facilities second to none. And finally, the Cornucopia, a converted farmhouse located on a steep hill overlooking Marsalforn on the north coast, with great views and friendly welcome.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZjcIKPJGtN42hDj8_fwi8GLPuwX7Vl94_GGWkeEjmWNAbJ6tP3av4ATiW9skkG4lnAlpiRVdO1CKDYwdN1BTRhkfZe7_n3Q2dnk8jvgcY1yY41xQ7Twol8cLg_Cmu9cj6g0lA/s640/blogger-image-1603107734.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ta Cenc</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The stable winter weather produced warm sunshine during the day, but refreshingly cool nights, and a good breeze near the coasts made walking a joy. There are some memorable walks: Santa Lucija to Wardija Point along the south western cliffs, and on to Fungus Rock and Dwerja Point, home of the iconic Azure Window and the Inland Sea. </span></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEies5PxUaic1ySj3Bev-KKSJnY6QMDB-NKXPxWOsuRE-W3ECivbCoiODKHIX6VVXxCoMshnqBwXYHVapB5EVjBD-bo9Ok_QcceCrlYkNsNXqdcblYDG-lbSnP-4oEg36aaFEpTa/s640/blogger-image-993055726.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View to Raider's Cove from the Mgarr to Ta Cenc coastal path</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS-YRTVEKALZOBPFJ8IvRojKjueX3JjotQXeDNzVGQmkHMfIO9mO0z8FOAJVH0k82oCHVVHGgf4LUQJg6KpKHhLNia5aFtfR0t1Ua7chb44-QK5SKCapUNiUnlzqJOJg1LZu4P/s640/blogger-image-319415164.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 'Azure Window'</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A marvellous circular walk from Rabat, to visit the Ta' Pinu National Shrine and to clamber up to the great viewpoint from the Gordan lighthouse. And some off-the-beaten track routes to the east of the island, a fine clifftop walk from the harbour at Mgarr to find the San Anton Battery at Qala Point, a defensive position built in 1723 and now beautifully restored, and, further north, a route taking you to the secluded San Blas Bay.</span></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHt7AryHt9M4zLGKbcSgWa_JfOg-MrTUL-4tDE3aJm0ciGZJPas0Xy20Stvg8LhaFfs7lU7zWQ-McI381te_qrrQjzt30eIxu6Fw3KVEuQdOlr5ajylMOsaB-Oqitt2w5jQ2vB/s640/blogger-image--487724032.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ta Pinu National Shrine</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTooCgBR6eJmhTjWSaWe_-lSjVQGZGl7HQIkbPFEI7DIi_DIl3jIwy3hNt39MPhOGs9YviAdGX_QGoCHhlJSVV4iZJjSn_St-aH-D2Py-HhsRJuo1G16QJeJdNoiMhaYRjGikP/s640/blogger-image--1237712502.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">North west Gozo from the approach to the Gordan lighthouse</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And the cycling was good too. Some care is required in towns where a combination of poor road surfaces in places and a certain Italian influence on the local driving style are evident, but out on the open roads cycling is a joy, and much improved by recent ERDF financed road schemes which have produced great surfaces to amble along next to some of the more famous sites in Gozo, the Qbajjar salt pans on the north coast, just west of Marsalforn, and the road out of Gharh to Pinu Point.</span></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Ug3AFng0BpOtHVJyMr-SZvNdSsy0rUukg4078LbsjrBIsGE2j94sbaungPCcsW5EFHSziyPHClbfasvVkqxqY1wqcxFUa1_6XTxY1CNS5fDyVvc2BAaCcPsdWXh4SHD0qmhI/s640/blogger-image--1809555402.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stumpy on the bike again, Marsalforn</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDbjVrB2Q7C9j1F8_Icln_dYF9H4Rpi76Q95UZfuZlkTHTY5ZTRZVjRPgIHoLJPo8Og_Vo-cZ1b88fg6qwInhbOuhyphenhyphenixDIG4VzZM_DtAFjhwDjUYSUcqURW0OC2kRf7xkoFA42/s640/blogger-image--940442426.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Qbajjar salt pans, north coast of Gozo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I was fortunate enough to be here for Republic Day, held on 13 December each year to mark Malta becoming a republic in 1974 (it became independent of British control back in 1964, but you'll still find red telephone and post boxes everywhere, cars still drive on the correct side of the road, and English is widely spoken). So, on the day itself, noisy early evening firework celebrations and during the day, processions in many villages festooned with flags and other national symbols. Santa Lucija was particulary lively!</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLlcYGlg-6D45wvviVKrgs643roptTk2FLzb4uKF6n2QErO2L-gdz_G8RlWnw01n8usagAe77dIOHTYdmL_Loelal-fxakAAu00zM5jej37wRtE9S1ciV3rbCLWeOYH3lKFNzj/s640/blogger-image--49490862.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Santa Lucija</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Other than the marvellous vistas to be had in all directions, there's plenty to see in the many towns across the island. The capital Victoria (known locally as Rabat) has a huge citadel, originating from medieval times and fortified by the Knights of St John, and affording 360 degree views across the island. </span></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU5E0lHTDPInRWC07524KVhMYuYik7Q7bvb5gCNMz8iEvoaaTF3sd_p8qasRNTVH5tTV-X6BeztU7fS67_PdGr1aFIld4CydCl3RAbdY2Sn60vszGKEKI3qQQwQdzkwsMfZ5f4/s640/blogger-image--1555648062.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Citadel, Victoria (Rabat)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCatXbGHCzCp6IcuOAtxSsNrigzRvp1Rfk4ddPBHpkBOuXswyBU280mbNhx5uhFMb1UBwR4eTZJNMJ4FvIddgQ8W2WLKhGLYidBPzWvXPIrXSRU_2CSnLJu1Go9egEsU5v2syH/s640/blogger-image--863732725.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCatXbGHCzCp6IcuOAtxSsNrigzRvp1Rfk4ddPBHpkBOuXswyBU280mbNhx5uhFMb1UBwR4eTZJNMJ4FvIddgQ8W2WLKhGLYidBPzWvXPIrXSRU_2CSnLJu1Go9egEsU5v2syH/s640/blogger-image--863732725.jpg" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Xaghra, pronounced 'shara', is home to the large Mesolithic temple complex known as Ggantija (dating back to 3600 BCE), the quirky cave full of stalactites and stalagmites 10m below ground level known as Xerris Grotto and discovered whilst a well was being dug back in 1923, and the nearby orange-red sands of Ramla Bay.</span></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl8BWnJP9TPvP0Q0UfSTG62cAAowEz6Ulzpbl0-2W34DyrOtbR-qNpz16qI2Y5igFRF18pwCM1yI4UmPMsuGk-Vqs3Dfe2cHT_VNx0TdMoE7XTUjL5BUst7NCODvD3xp4oN8Aa/s640/blogger-image-2097689540.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ggantija</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3JcTSoXz4T-EpKiTVYNEIhyphenhyphencElw82Tn95JdloCi0J1YuiZ4d28753v8fJQbqS94I6BEbMKaWzie5ppOOqRgPLpr3Rcoh9B94sLgjo7G8R9YsIqARvN62MkywX6RPBH9NKJdWO/s640/blogger-image--1774483844.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Xerri's Grotto</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyxGaQ8WY4es7ESozlS3_sXpqxf6TlS-ziq1azYv0ogShvnBKHHUPMHeDjco-sAvW7jWfzFFPePiKpn8zXP3laCREWF2Lkd_7f4-hGjTyJwS2gsAVCI-dI0edOQcLdEDJK2vNt/s640/blogger-image-261977138.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyxGaQ8WY4es7ESozlS3_sXpqxf6TlS-ziq1azYv0ogShvnBKHHUPMHeDjco-sAvW7jWfzFFPePiKpn8zXP3laCREWF2Lkd_7f4-hGjTyJwS2gsAVCI-dI0edOQcLdEDJK2vNt/s640/blogger-image-261977138.jpg" /></span></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuu0A8PuWT84W7Nt2bw3aIM3_-avtHCC_VnLnJ7q1Gq_5F-kT44TmGqKO6yaCXayWHuGthHwemGHVoez20Ip-b7deUkD_bEjLtfI9ulKXcoXF_5arAD1rL1xqu7cV_nilTlwEh/s640/blogger-image-1980870505.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ramla Bay</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Xewkija, pronounced 'showkia', has the most prominent church (of the 46!) on the island, known locally as the Rotunda after its enormous dome (larger than St Paul's Cathedral in London), and funded entirely by the local populace. In contrast, the tiny chapel of San Dimitri, just north of Gharb (pronounced 'harb'), offers simplicity itself, showing off the honey coloured hue of the ubiquitous local coralline limestone to wonderful effect.</span></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9b3S5aIdREUU7caW_eRukfphJcavVcM_JVJunXRWjuvD2Ox5MN4B4rM7kZGfgbufqMWKeq8sRV2eg2PZxtazC6yG7znkYXwRtKC6msKR7ghJr5sCb5k-lSSi5oSpuCc1h6fQl/s640/blogger-image-1153949514.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 'Rotunda' at Xewkija</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYLYWsEXJDGn5pLTwr0OITF7Tk899cz5vIo1fYJBMC8zLb-wjKoi8zf1qwKbKAfX-ZzrMw6QmvOU3GGh6KA9Jc-MgctbVcNoTNvbrj8Wu9xgMZUaFJLxKXtNWD32yzxSn4kcBY/s400/blogger-image--353604603.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="300" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">San Dimitri chapel</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Traveling around for a week or so I was taken with the simple welcome of the local Gozitan people. Their language, but the way, sounds like a blend of excitable Italian and guttural Arabic, and is very difficult to pronounce. They have some odd pastimes though. Most of the island's male population seem to enjoy shooting the many migratory birds that cross this island, the coastline brimming over with shooting hides and paths awash with spent cartridges. At least you can eat pheasant! The other preoccupation of the islanders, when not hammering stone, is fishing, the plus side of this being great fish in local restaurants.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6PBhWEBXVoMGNDC8Fg-NY1jk3776c2iRKWstET3Q9hZxcIkc5tQUjkjPgBiuWH_fhiLpNcytxtl_yr5WGzfN7pWz8Uzf1ujW3w7kzSHtk0KA7Ac6-T7Asa3QhKMinXWODUruw/s640/blogger-image--12303316.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View to Xlendi from the approach to Wardija Point </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjagI3UdF77J6GrDhoASbVCVeyKKMsxL3MFmyTIYCK2y6gEd3544cL2AlZnMeVMhAHHzW2UKad2idZJzYLgPADtFWG__1aJRV99ern6Vrq-3wXd4At9LBwbSPY4f6ImIQfo0cxA/s640/blogger-image--1588024213.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fort Chambray, above Mgarr</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXPxoi4LDsPijfDLmeRoCbk4Gv8OlLIzoX9AD1O8ZYqmfl_PsLISiVLa1HLk-GJpMJVmlgYAbjPXBP4ZiDNcIf-lz1XK29lTnHhLKiCdfw8bKg1A1iQeppQbkehd6H-yQdXXnG/s640/blogger-image--437704068.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></a><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXPxoi4LDsPijfDLmeRoCbk4Gv8OlLIzoX9AD1O8ZYqmfl_PsLISiVLa1HLk-GJpMJVmlgYAbjPXBP4ZiDNcIf-lz1XK29lTnHhLKiCdfw8bKg1A1iQeppQbkehd6H-yQdXXnG/s640/blogger-image--437704068.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mgarr Harbour</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So, thank you Gozo, a little treat in the southern Mediterranean and one to be savoured in the spring and the autumn before the searing heat of mid summer. It's been a pleasure.</span></div>
<div>
</div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9888425.post-71146077186192917722013-08-08T05:41:00.001+00:002013-10-13T14:05:10.338+00:00India - August 2013<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Travels on the 'Monk for a Month' programme with <a href="http://www.spitiecosphere.com/" target="_blank">Spiti Ecosphere</a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxGzZy7k30bOMrVefM8pPj8GuEuZuUYVY4vlwEVv5l0Pn5xbwW52XdT1yYKGKyICmEMW3gM5e1ejIrX7TU_QJskUEQvUMOWhCF-oYDjil9b_baX5gCZ7eKJoaa8w2ARrB1RH6kZg/s640/blogger-image-647352948.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxGzZy7k30bOMrVefM8pPj8GuEuZuUYVY4vlwEVv5l0Pn5xbwW52XdT1yYKGKyICmEMW3gM5e1ejIrX7TU_QJskUEQvUMOWhCF-oYDjil9b_baX5gCZ7eKJoaa8w2ARrB1RH6kZg/s640/blogger-image-647352948.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>Summary</b></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Rudyard Kipling in 'Kim' described Spiti as a 'world within a world' and as a place 'where the Gods Live'. </div>
<div>
How true. </div>
<div>
It's a devil of a job to get there, high mountain passes to cross, shockingly bad roads, and plenty of surprises like unexpected snowfall in mid summer, landslides, and broken down vehicles blocking your way. </div>
<div>
But that's half the fun. You <i>earn</i> the right to enjoy this Trans-Himalayan corner of India, high up in the state of Himachal Pradesh, close to the Tibetan border.</div>
<div>
The local people are welcoming and warm-hearted. They're cut off from the world six months of the year, the average income in a Spiti village is only about £1,100, and beyond subsistence farming and a parlous existence from their main cash crop, the humble green pea, there's not much income except from tourism. </div>
<div>
It feels like Tibet here, the local language is Bhoti, a dialect of western Tibet, and prayer flags flutter everywhere, the elders quietly recite their meritorious mantra, and restaurants fill you up with momos and thupka.</div>
<div>
Our hosts, Spiti Ecosphere, have pioneered tourism into this region, helping villagers to supplement their income through home-stays, bringing in groups of volunteers to assist with greenhouse and other eco-projects, guiding trekkers, and, in our case, providing a unique opportunity to learn and observe the intricacies of Tibetan Buddhism. </div>
<div>
Language can be a problem, especially when attempting to understand the finer points of Vajrayāna, and you have to be prepared for cold water washes (or sometimes none at all), frequent power outages, no mobile phone coverage, dust, and sudden changes to the itinerary forced by natural events. </div>
<div>
But there's ample compensation. </div>
<div>
You'll enjoy huge mountain landscapes, you'll feel the spirituality amidst the ancient monasteries which loom above the precipitous river valleys, and help some lovely, gentle people in making their way in the world. </div>
<div>
And all of this observed by that most elusive of creatures, the snow leopard. You won't see him, but he'll surely be watching you as you pass through his territory in this hidden corner of the world. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf_NdqZ8d7ooSLdOks3qUF9dd80mD3B7mEcCFMyaA6BEhav9Lm7YQmfU9AAGTyvL9lIp-d7CXmkPFjA7hHV8D3GLwYJH2gv_w-aC88rgmBukiKwe5vc74MXwCTcmaK9QZCmO1XqQ/s640/blogger-image-1457653912.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf_NdqZ8d7ooSLdOks3qUF9dd80mD3B7mEcCFMyaA6BEhav9Lm7YQmfU9AAGTyvL9lIp-d7CXmkPFjA7hHV8D3GLwYJH2gv_w-aC88rgmBukiKwe5vc74MXwCTcmaK9QZCmO1XqQ/s640/blogger-image-1457653912.jpg" /></a></div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
There is a 10 minute slideshow of this trip on <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gw8Up61AqhM&feature=share&list=UUecREG0eg1TTaYKh8GfPX8w" target="_blank">YouTube</a> </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Day 1 </div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
An unusual trip this. Firstly, most travellers would avoid Delhi during the monsoon period. And secondly, almost all would avoid the temptation to stay in a Buddhist monastery high in the Himalaya for five days.</div>
<div>
But, this is the mission for this year's little adventure to India.</div>
<div>
Monsoonal Delhi is hot and extremely damp, the rain falling in the morning and it's rather like walking in a luke warm shower when you're out and about, the afternoons revealing a hazy sun which then stimulates extraordinary levels of humidity. </div>
<div>
But, there's new sights and wonders to be seen, and my first day in Delhi was no exception. Having been here four times already, I was keen to get beyond the usual tourist honeypots of the Chandni Chowk, Red Fort and the Jama Masjid mosque in Old Delhi, the familiar India Gate and Parliamentary buildings, and the southern icons like Humayun's Tomb and the Qutb Minar.</div>
<div>
So, my first stop off was a major Sikh temple, the Bangla Sahib Gurdwara, close to Connaught Place in central Delhi, and situated in a place where Guru Hari Krishan, the eighth of the ten gurus revered in the Sikh pantheon, visited in the late 17th century. Shoes off, head covered and welcomed into the temple where the Sikh 'Word of God' is sung throughout the day and the faithful come to pay their respects to their holy book, the Sri Guru Granth Sahib Ji, displayed in a central gilded enclosure and protected by armed Sikh temple guards. The singing, in Punjabi, and accompanied by accordion and tabla, was beguiling and it was a pleasure to just sit and take it all in for a while. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-VV9-OQJjsa7k94bqLQW7H0NtY16NXSDSYJtuiJ5OuNOAG91thtz2VzoKhVjrHKlRNb8KonNS9OXGFkAFqbx8uHZdRpoVQb6e0l3B-EqdhZVO3dxgU8iwU_QhQp3bP1X85nk99Q/s640/blogger-image-859933675.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-VV9-OQJjsa7k94bqLQW7H0NtY16NXSDSYJtuiJ5OuNOAG91thtz2VzoKhVjrHKlRNb8KonNS9OXGFkAFqbx8uHZdRpoVQb6e0l3B-EqdhZVO3dxgU8iwU_QhQp3bP1X85nk99Q/s640/blogger-image-859933675.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbkVlLkMLkysOFGWyvNVAUO37C2f1oZPMbVPf5m48LwU15Ful7CBS1uy-5CDqf5lf3Cff6gSejZRbex3iolLoFvtIvg2IIrp4Ic83ttGZ9n3I6MopLTmg1o5x6efTWQDm8GzzInQ/s640/blogger-image--438635186.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbkVlLkMLkysOFGWyvNVAUO37C2f1oZPMbVPf5m48LwU15Ful7CBS1uy-5CDqf5lf3Cff6gSejZRbex3iolLoFvtIvg2IIrp4Ic83ttGZ9n3I6MopLTmg1o5x6efTWQDm8GzzInQ/s640/blogger-image--438635186.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div>
A feature of Sikh temples ('Gurdwara') is that they have a Pangat (also known as Guru-Ka-Langar), a community kitchen, which provides free food for all visitors, of any caste or creed. On my visit, hundreds of people, rich and poor, were seated in rows on the floor tucking into a vegetable thali, and this would be repeated, on an hourly basis, right through the day, the next batch of visitors sitting outside and many mouthing the Sikh salutation as they waited. I was taken in to see the kitchen, huge pots with dhal bubbling away, and production of chappati on an industrial scale, some produced in a machine, but many lovingly prepared by hand by the many volunteers, who also serve the food and wash up the thali trays. I had a go at rolling out a chappatii, and didn't do a bad job, albeit somewhat slower than the volunteers around me. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7DSWXF4gxLLRJWyjzB47uFFlcaXFZf6o4ijyRoAFe7KZzbwrMOI4fbQnjjUcwwSDCS32vQsEAssjKqFqggL_eqAUa2wjXygBlY2x_k30U5NQJy0gP5zATeolTuIuSd9g9ObfYwQ/s640/blogger-image--224456480.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7DSWXF4gxLLRJWyjzB47uFFlcaXFZf6o4ijyRoAFe7KZzbwrMOI4fbQnjjUcwwSDCS32vQsEAssjKqFqggL_eqAUa2wjXygBlY2x_k30U5NQJy0gP5zATeolTuIuSd9g9ObfYwQ/s640/blogger-image--224456480.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBqfuo1m6EDupwYoOERhIYOYYPjepXWtt7p397w5CfDRAByZQQj4B2aiLK7o7mGHK2mQnYQmpdgQ_aWQitJrpiZpooOxU5DJBT4J2lQV0FsGSsslgo_IFHE3HSL_59y7a4-HI1aA/s640/blogger-image-1063030463.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBqfuo1m6EDupwYoOERhIYOYYPjepXWtt7p397w5CfDRAByZQQj4B2aiLK7o7mGHK2mQnYQmpdgQ_aWQitJrpiZpooOxU5DJBT4J2lQV0FsGSsslgo_IFHE3HSL_59y7a4-HI1aA/s640/blogger-image-1063030463.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCQ610pl-PrN7M31HVOddCu1tHJeI6aDHiiOWYf_FnoyxVJvX2qGwv133voIoYwgUVTHMW233BFMErKT4SfyJZo6BTfrYwX0hf3Ir375rwNKEQzZ2ji75i2mXRL70FPCZ5wc4KqQ/s640/blogger-image--47460916.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCQ610pl-PrN7M31HVOddCu1tHJeI6aDHiiOWYf_FnoyxVJvX2qGwv133voIoYwgUVTHMW233BFMErKT4SfyJZo6BTfrYwX0hf3Ir375rwNKEQzZ2ji75i2mXRL70FPCZ5wc4KqQ/s640/blogger-image--47460916.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuNsSaPCfBRuwON1olNwSicWfdXVBz_uqZ5MHIOJyrnU4benJJ3UAp0AjniTEZjwkeqiVXfjp4nQHazVw2dVBiRURWczBOSlDY2Fs3jzX1Wzhn_Dr8jin_CawK5VA2buCKKtfyfQ/s640/blogger-image-1523971282.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuNsSaPCfBRuwON1olNwSicWfdXVBz_uqZ5MHIOJyrnU4benJJ3UAp0AjniTEZjwkeqiVXfjp4nQHazVw2dVBiRURWczBOSlDY2Fs3jzX1Wzhn_Dr8jin_CawK5VA2buCKKtfyfQ/s640/blogger-image-1523971282.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div>
A nice visit, the Sikhs showing great friendliness to an outsider, and keen to talk about their religion in an intelligent and dignified fashion.</div>
<div>
Once again into the heat and haze of Delhi, the gentle rain now abating, and on to our next port of call, the shrine to Gandhi, situated in the garden of Birla House where he used to lead prayers when in Delhi, and where he was shot, at point blank range, by a nationalist opposed to the partitioning of India, in January 1948. Worth a visit, and I bought his autobiography (subtitled The Story of My Experiments with Truth, published in 1927, along with Louis Fischer's biography), some solid reading for the next few days methinks.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6TLI_r1q7jQRDsaFdyMNBZrhwXAEoowJLWM57ZukJAsCzbbWk0WFgWUOMzVgTmCnyZdWfwD8fhI_w9bmBhHpcF5REjT7AXJ_oCWvjCNuF7IZfUvgZQtdmuWFFoejfVJPb3tyOXA/s640/blogger-image-857726904.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6TLI_r1q7jQRDsaFdyMNBZrhwXAEoowJLWM57ZukJAsCzbbWk0WFgWUOMzVgTmCnyZdWfwD8fhI_w9bmBhHpcF5REjT7AXJ_oCWvjCNuF7IZfUvgZQtdmuWFFoejfVJPb3tyOXA/s640/blogger-image-857726904.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYshIeGQ-hckLKlt6TfFmNPKu9CytsMtOS43tiRRCAx9coVvKGQN9m_cB4I6LaAuY9fZd8eVUSaqGBu7qupWxjneX1oZ7i5Tzwm9AWp-QlXas8bopm3IxO4Aaa4bD1Ynp9WCa96g/s640/blogger-image--1328722734.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYshIeGQ-hckLKlt6TfFmNPKu9CytsMtOS43tiRRCAx9coVvKGQN9m_cB4I6LaAuY9fZd8eVUSaqGBu7qupWxjneX1oZ7i5Tzwm9AWp-QlXas8bopm3IxO4Aaa4bD1Ynp9WCa96g/s640/blogger-image--1328722734.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Before a late lunch with my friend Ramesh from Welcome Travels in Delhi, I paid a short visit to the Lotus Temple, south of the city, abandoning our car for a couple of stops on Delhi's relatively new metro, here on an overground section. Fast, efficient and inevitably crowded, but we were soon at the gates of the Lotus Temple, one of seven around the world (Sydney, Panama City, Kampala to name a few of them) and created by worshippers of the Baha'i religion. Baha'i was started by a youth in Iran, Báb, and an early follower, Babáu'lláh, both of whom were ruthlessly persecuted in their home country, the former executed and the latter exiled, eventually settling in what was then Palestine. The temple itself is a nine-sided construction, with concrete petals clad in Greek marble and surrounded by nine pools. Designs in other countries differ.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIoXZZLXdBagEoJGYq90WUjvoVjlBkwVcZ9VpqPNnDTutS2HeBKCxlWRvJok9j5Gpwiirlh-y6KuqhoF_tEI-OVky5iYyPzGMN_9MFeVGJs8rESVZ2H2GNjHGvw5v8vFX1xgzPsg/s640/blogger-image-1256498111.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIoXZZLXdBagEoJGYq90WUjvoVjlBkwVcZ9VpqPNnDTutS2HeBKCxlWRvJok9j5Gpwiirlh-y6KuqhoF_tEI-OVky5iYyPzGMN_9MFeVGJs8rESVZ2H2GNjHGvw5v8vFX1xgzPsg/s640/blogger-image-1256498111.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Prayers are recited, and can be from any other faith, in line with the Baha'i belief in the unity of one God. We caught the end of a prayer session, and the acoustics of this 1980's construction were magnificent.</div>
<div>
The final call of the day was to the nearby ISKCON, better known as the Hare Krishna temple, famously developed during the 1960's and now with a worldwide following (Krishna, the Hindu god of love). The temple itself is modelled on the traditional Hindu style, and 'Hare Krishna' was being sung by a small group of musicians inside, the outside now festooned in bamboo scaffolding to support protective tarpaulin for the forthcoming celebration of Krishna's birthday at the end of August. I found the whole thing here somewhat contrived, my guide adding that no-one can 'become' a Hindu, rather you had to be born into it, so for many Indian Hindus, the concept of Western Krishna followers is somewhat incredulous. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXkqo_ge18Aw3eJSdMnYu-pU7MWeN8FdJZCDgdYz3-oQGAi_-Km4LUIzVMs0d1Z0UfKVtVw6sc-Z5Mp90jUNhzTvK3bcW77cXy9tsSuBbLgkcGGzoMokRqRigMzOERKKK1xjmljQ/s640/blogger-image-154134032.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXkqo_ge18Aw3eJSdMnYu-pU7MWeN8FdJZCDgdYz3-oQGAi_-Km4LUIzVMs0d1Z0UfKVtVw6sc-Z5Mp90jUNhzTvK3bcW77cXy9tsSuBbLgkcGGzoMokRqRigMzOERKKK1xjmljQ/s640/blogger-image-154134032.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU7tro8r-aMWUpmwJ4lnY7mixhFtaswrmGj7v4A4GV06SLJt44UFWBEtvWjH9aOzN2upVbRlOLFJl9IJUqD_AvP8Uy5bDL-cOj3ttOj0VokqYzYOCBRwY2tNrl-9yyxt6fUx1zFw/s640/blogger-image-575482291.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU7tro8r-aMWUpmwJ4lnY7mixhFtaswrmGj7v4A4GV06SLJt44UFWBEtvWjH9aOzN2upVbRlOLFJl9IJUqD_AvP8Uy5bDL-cOj3ttOj0VokqYzYOCBRwY2tNrl-9yyxt6fUx1zFw/s640/blogger-image-575482291.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div>
A comfortable night and much needed kip enjoyed at the Maidens Hotel, situated just north of the Old City in grand colonial buildings, and now part of the Oberoi group. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3PjRjrc5xNxV7vVq767Wi1tFW3ATnExbptMMLd1SnLEPYmJ75NhpKCGZSq2guC5ZMJL8fjSp01H2j9YrN1HnZBW9cdud3f9pA6omz6_j-G4XugSL_LLaMkPcz-5_pdQKciHhjGw/s640/blogger-image--631285146.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3PjRjrc5xNxV7vVq767Wi1tFW3ATnExbptMMLd1SnLEPYmJ75NhpKCGZSq2guC5ZMJL8fjSp01H2j9YrN1HnZBW9cdud3f9pA6omz6_j-G4XugSL_LLaMkPcz-5_pdQKciHhjGw/s640/blogger-image--631285146.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maidens Hotel</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Day 2</div>
<div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
A slow start before I repositioned myself to Tara House, a little further north in an area known as Majnu-Ka-Tilla, situated on the banks of the Yamuna River, now flooding in places following the heavy monsoon rains.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG8YSqbTHvls2anU4IPvDZmOmMWPNzGwIbEtQOK9VFRk-snEFiknjC6Gy3l0DD5-newl7DuiG3H5o3uB_sPxt8RKysze70FogExR0HZqff1EEY666I0HCZnYBNtMC5igZcM7MIfw/s640/blogger-image--516405668.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG8YSqbTHvls2anU4IPvDZmOmMWPNzGwIbEtQOK9VFRk-snEFiknjC6Gy3l0DD5-newl7DuiG3H5o3uB_sPxt8RKysze70FogExR0HZqff1EEY666I0HCZnYBNtMC5igZcM7MIfw/s640/blogger-image--516405668.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCK7VoVNTwp2jVWR810JnhuoyhqsqcI31gZzJNcXlMA85fJOX9X0YNfH4nUuER8F9RZv_QjdYiHc0Umw1PQ1S2J6KSMDs03fHyiIxCqop4p3aqM49Jny4iOcvE6FYCGn6QQaiT_Q/s640/blogger-image--877960596.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCK7VoVNTwp2jVWR810JnhuoyhqsqcI31gZzJNcXlMA85fJOX9X0YNfH4nUuER8F9RZv_QjdYiHc0Umw1PQ1S2J6KSMDs03fHyiIxCqop4p3aqM49Jny4iOcvE6FYCGn6QQaiT_Q/s640/blogger-image--877960596.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"> </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">Room with a view! Yamuna River</span></span><span style="text-align: left;"> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
This was to be the meeting point for our little group of intrepid travellers, who will be heading north in a couple of days to reach the remote region of Spiti in the northernmost part of Himachal Pradesh, a high altitude 'cold desert' situated close to the Tibetan border. </div>
<div>
More about that later. </div>
<div>
My driver brought me away from the palatial surroundings of the Maidens Hotel to the somewhat less salubrious environs of a Tibetan refugee quarter, but I first took an opportunity to visit another Sikh temple, the Majnu-Tilla Shrine, named after Majnu, a Muslim Sufi dervish who met the Guru Nanak (the originator of the Sikh faith) in the late 15th century and who became an outstanding devotee and missionary. He subsequently converted his khanqua into a shrine of Guru Nanak. It's less impressive than the Bangla Sahib Gurdwara but thankfully devoid of tourists. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNED5ZxC0IYi6WzQkMoczTPorwBa906X5gQiTlDQxgKM8vlrOu7MELNXrC94xaqKnnH5799uQzKK5UhFt54swimWc07vS5qcUkSMIeDwwj0CDa5bxxlvetoElBwd_833jBD-opQA/s640/blogger-image--949468644.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNED5ZxC0IYi6WzQkMoczTPorwBa906X5gQiTlDQxgKM8vlrOu7MELNXrC94xaqKnnH5799uQzKK5UhFt54swimWc07vS5qcUkSMIeDwwj0CDa5bxxlvetoElBwd_833jBD-opQA/s640/blogger-image--949468644.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The hotel is centrally located in the Tibetan enclave, an area which houses many refugees in a variety of ramshackle constructions which have grown up as they continue to flee Chinese oppression. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqnrwFcqajxMZxU55_-Rf9FXRA5qekkjmK6_aU5FG6RTkUuMEG8CMozwof5mfwWJbXDYJ7tY9uQDWL4ME_hlD9pa2AIdpjiZp_dEnilfue7gANjQVc7nr57q_vRcJ16u5qEXsmEg/s640/blogger-image--986392314.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqnrwFcqajxMZxU55_-Rf9FXRA5qekkjmK6_aU5FG6RTkUuMEG8CMozwof5mfwWJbXDYJ7tY9uQDWL4ME_hlD9pa2AIdpjiZp_dEnilfue7gANjQVc7nr57q_vRcJ16u5qEXsmEg/s640/blogger-image--986392314.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdxjh-3cXwqj0F2WmnTJTEETWJg3qfuJa90lYKrsvJAJV1DvmoZ136P8kWKJUv_4fGVmknqgBp0VjbPPaDMFA2RbyuYcetNouxgePJT42RqLHYRde-66UBv6ia9DkwzaQV9MaHhA/s640/blogger-image--1937691703.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdxjh-3cXwqj0F2WmnTJTEETWJg3qfuJa90lYKrsvJAJV1DvmoZ136P8kWKJUv_4fGVmknqgBp0VjbPPaDMFA2RbyuYcetNouxgePJT42RqLHYRde-66UBv6ia9DkwzaQV9MaHhA/s640/blogger-image--1937691703.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuh2WBtTzGV09IzgnUnUKl2CqP9T7MNa4enxha8LbXXLWVqIHjoxFvakoR433BTiWGE2aWbXBBnytkvQ598FyQxZjDP8gErfDL4EaOe7bVenKtKFVjoej6iYnilTyd7YE0WeTIzw/s640/blogger-image--1613146097.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuh2WBtTzGV09IzgnUnUKl2CqP9T7MNa4enxha8LbXXLWVqIHjoxFvakoR433BTiWGE2aWbXBBnytkvQ598FyQxZjDP8gErfDL4EaOe7bVenKtKFVjoej6iYnilTyd7YE0WeTIzw/s640/blogger-image--1613146097.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrUYyoE3fH9kXAahCxJNVlDgeAzzqtws1wSmFOtiKkMvCZQVMkVetX9KT-zABTuhXi-qP-dcQ-8N2nxwv4UM39OvIsgFsXIFRPxE1g3Y_NYNapohyphenhyphenr-o9l5-KYBPkkFeLEr6RGeg/s640/blogger-image--988661517.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrUYyoE3fH9kXAahCxJNVlDgeAzzqtws1wSmFOtiKkMvCZQVMkVetX9KT-zABTuhXi-qP-dcQ-8N2nxwv4UM39OvIsgFsXIFRPxE1g3Y_NYNapohyphenhyphenr-o9l5-KYBPkkFeLEr6RGeg/s640/blogger-image--988661517.jpg" /></a></div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
There's a small Nyimgmapa and Kadampa monastery with two chapels, and in one a group of ten monks were chanting under the watchful eye of their lama. The streets are filled with Tibetan art, book and jewellery shops, and the inevitable internet cafes and mobile phone shops. A relaxed vibe prevails here, although judging by the number of dogs on the street, and mosquitoes breeding in puddles, it promises to be a disturbed couple of nights ahead!</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Day 3</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Yeh, the night was predictably bad. Room was fine, air con worked after late evening power cut, but frogs living on the flood plain provided the background track to the cacophony of local dogs fighting for territory, and other hotel residents clattering doors in the middle of the night. Hey ho, passed out eventually. </div>
<div>
The group, eight of us - moi, four Aussies, one from Thailand, one from Poland and one American - gathered for the first time and we went walkabout around the Tibetan enclave, visited the Sikh temple (today busier with a women's group leading the sung prayers) and walked along the Yamuna riverbank and the crude tented homes of the Dalits who live here. Appalling poverty, but people looked content with their lot.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTdZeiMrNDRCYTZIaDsS-UOXtcAF0z7Nb2D1Z1SJqP5MvwnrlqctpJTPtzDQJGz6VVvezqrHMJ1GGTPfIf5PK4XMh0WOUjA27eKdiAKR9joHvFbaC1Oxt_nfI6EcUPXlUkGJR4yg/s640/blogger-image--537586912.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTdZeiMrNDRCYTZIaDsS-UOXtcAF0z7Nb2D1Z1SJqP5MvwnrlqctpJTPtzDQJGz6VVvezqrHMJ1GGTPfIf5PK4XMh0WOUjA27eKdiAKR9joHvFbaC1Oxt_nfI6EcUPXlUkGJR4yg/s640/blogger-image--537586912.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div>
A Tibetan lunch, momos, etc., then we travelled to Tibet House, just south of central Delhi. This is a cultural centre established by HH Dalai Lama with support from the Indian government, and we received a useful lecture on basic Buddhist principles from <a href="http://bodhiwisdom.blogspot.co.uk/2010/11/about-geshe-dorji-damdul_12.html" target="_blank">Geshe Dorje Damdul</a>, one of the Dalai Lama's translators. A thoroughly competent chap, who seemed able to fend off even the most challenging of questions. There's a small museum here, and this will get a proper visit at the end of this trip. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVt7dXHM3Avxf0WaTweWC_qgsHK-3-VMEz4OR0Oj5uCvKXupokEZJrYjPmEd7fTB2E4ogh_eXaVftWgy8-iLID4QrIu1VOwoxedz_sBqKFpix16lwjzbR-68UCA23qzjvG5eOVxw/s640/blogger-image-1991358592.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVt7dXHM3Avxf0WaTweWC_qgsHK-3-VMEz4OR0Oj5uCvKXupokEZJrYjPmEd7fTB2E4ogh_eXaVftWgy8-iLID4QrIu1VOwoxedz_sBqKFpix16lwjzbR-68UCA23qzjvG5eOVxw/s640/blogger-image-1991358592.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl09K9Fl265VVN0pWGwyhpMsyWPN4fwmrqGgBhQau7vvT1wnojThSZAfHAJFFSDKLZ4-Phf3UW3Xge-HxY9a5ka1bm0-IATNtngO7wKpJ9Dm1GsdqJWDUTS5_d1SaRyRW5rMeQnQ/s640/blogger-image--1288093126.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl09K9Fl265VVN0pWGwyhpMsyWPN4fwmrqGgBhQau7vvT1wnojThSZAfHAJFFSDKLZ4-Phf3UW3Xge-HxY9a5ka1bm0-IATNtngO7wKpJ9Dm1GsdqJWDUTS5_d1SaRyRW5rMeQnQ/s640/blogger-image--1288093126.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div>
We enjoyed a late afternoon walk through Lodhi Park, with an interesting selection of ancient mosques and mausoleum, before a final visit to an Indian cultural centre with an excellent exhibition of photographs of Rajasthan and a simple food hall.</div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjILZqUK0gqtXocokv9rm6D8tiGxijomxljyMLwyEOQ-pd9CtFJYRH-5oJNreZ5sNN-kdBj8Y8bOvcw0zOHj08y84KrltCOda6ZPITE3HF8DWk847HVI7ArJkV_C7GfzAbGyjs78g/s640/blogger-image--387508146.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjILZqUK0gqtXocokv9rm6D8tiGxijomxljyMLwyEOQ-pd9CtFJYRH-5oJNreZ5sNN-kdBj8Y8bOvcw0zOHj08y84KrltCOda6ZPITE3HF8DWk847HVI7ArJkV_C7GfzAbGyjs78g/s640/blogger-image--387508146.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div>
A speedy trip back to the hotel, the roads in Delhi faster today as it's a public holiday (Eid, and it's also a new moon, so very auspicious). Early to bed, a crack of dawn start tomorrow to head off for distant Manali. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Day 4</div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
So, the long journey north starts! Off on to relatively quiet major roads heading north from Delhi out towards Chandighar, and soon into the flat arable lands which stretch for a couple of hundred miles up to the start of the Himalayan foothills. I've travelled across this area by train before so got stuck into my book and the time soon passed. Beyond Chandighar, we found ourselves on the 'Himalayan Highway', a well made road that took us off the northern plains into the verdant hilly country. </div>
<div>
As always, the good roads run out quickly, and it was not long before we were on roads where progress is only made by breathtaking overtaking manoeuvres, although the two drivers we have seem to err on the safe side compared to some I could mention from past experience. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv6XgVefhfb3Fuu3ydlV2yj6L0uXrXWHhcch99zkPz5SRHXwcwkFJyUYTbcuhN85l_d0X3HQgWnx2un7p9S_WOZsSpKs09yRm1dBLXOQOwUm8nBheL67TE4x8HvX0_R7NhKI5Kag/s640/blogger-image--1262512111.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv6XgVefhfb3Fuu3ydlV2yj6L0uXrXWHhcch99zkPz5SRHXwcwkFJyUYTbcuhN85l_d0X3HQgWnx2un7p9S_WOZsSpKs09yRm1dBLXOQOwUm8nBheL67TE4x8HvX0_R7NhKI5Kag/s640/blogger-image--1262512111.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Monkeys at the side of the road greeted us, and very quickly the sights of the Sutlej valley unfolded before us, an indication of the grandeur ahead of us over the next three weeks. Breakfast and a lunch stop gave us a little respite, but it was over 16 hours (about 530km) before we drew into a busy Manali to reach our hotel for the next two nights, the Shingar Regency, overlooking the town. We're now at 2,000m, so acclimatisation has started. Rest day tomorrow, before the final push to the Spiti Valley.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgItaSGTDjTlC_LHDgtuxmaDhdDe512kb_XaNslkkf2hOj6G1vlxg_h3iW1qHRaSlTfcoy6i8wFr7tu0W4ohFy3JC7sYXR8VW0DWxNV-ZADHanV2XCM520GhYxiIWlzL35bB4vJpw/s640/blogger-image--30674471.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgItaSGTDjTlC_LHDgtuxmaDhdDe512kb_XaNslkkf2hOj6G1vlxg_h3iW1qHRaSlTfcoy6i8wFr7tu0W4ohFy3JC7sYXR8VW0DWxNV-ZADHanV2XCM520GhYxiIWlzL35bB4vJpw/s640/blogger-image--30674471.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Some of the reprobates I'm travelling with, one an entrepreneur, another a tradesman and the other a DJ/festival organiser...you work it out!</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Day 5</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnPXZXxVSt7kgsVpZK3LzyM8omS5LxOVRFr4XQu4hgy7Vi_qbchEMXYQyHllNLxpl2Tcgi4TYLWQuqlGN8ftxF5jTW_shREBldR0pBKfFP1sq_YsiJtm7rhJUQypGOAkswtvw2lg/s640/blogger-image-1870637491.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnPXZXxVSt7kgsVpZK3LzyM8omS5LxOVRFr4XQu4hgy7Vi_qbchEMXYQyHllNLxpl2Tcgi4TYLWQuqlGN8ftxF5jTW_shREBldR0pBKfFP1sq_YsiJtm7rhJUQypGOAkswtvw2lg/s640/blogger-image-1870637491.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzZIMRCAIExeAMGXgHIUpnbDV-pDcV3sTSX09iYYJdUJ1tBd4xG3GqpjoVZxGkcMNYwG_rE72OZk3l4hFUxXIFglfHtJiqcJc0VMlwqYImeal6ZWynRNKQknNqvvTBm4sWjDqnig/s640/blogger-image--1985258480.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzZIMRCAIExeAMGXgHIUpnbDV-pDcV3sTSX09iYYJdUJ1tBd4xG3GqpjoVZxGkcMNYwG_rE72OZk3l4hFUxXIFglfHtJiqcJc0VMlwqYImeal6ZWynRNKQknNqvvTBm4sWjDqnig/s640/blogger-image--1985258480.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Manali</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
A solid night's sleep (felt like a coma) and a short walk down to Manali in relatively low humidity and somewhat lower tremperatures than Delhi! The rain here falls almost continuously, a light rain almost evaporating as it hits your clothing, interspersed by strong downpours every now and again. Typical monsoon weather.</div>
<div>
Our first stop was a newly built Nyingma-pa temple, set in nice grounds with a small stupa and large prayer wheel in a little garden just behind the hustle and bustle of the main market area in the town.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzf_Brh87oJyMrXCoPscIjOfvS5JE3uZaxWKzijmWj5wxNdZpOsNrNh9KnssOAxW_y4t3d-lgKsgG6R22CrA_JeI-7xsdaC590DCInnQZauKue3k64Fc_qxyeQWmRQaOnr9Sp-kQ/s640/blogger-image-1786236341.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzf_Brh87oJyMrXCoPscIjOfvS5JE3uZaxWKzijmWj5wxNdZpOsNrNh9KnssOAxW_y4t3d-lgKsgG6R22CrA_JeI-7xsdaC590DCInnQZauKue3k64Fc_qxyeQWmRQaOnr9Sp-kQ/s640/blogger-image-1786236341.jpg" /></a></div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiee6XvbckwFHNRuNDfkRFMpuSHgCUNCRUqjFlCJ32LPpyn6xpg6k7S6EwciqnvWGrgbkTvcoQ24mOr1x7mvonprUT2dMbYr0P6h09vkZDBocsscTfaOOLjn8OIC7LIx5mRKxc0Ew/s640/blogger-image-413292966.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiee6XvbckwFHNRuNDfkRFMpuSHgCUNCRUqjFlCJ32LPpyn6xpg6k7S6EwciqnvWGrgbkTvcoQ24mOr1x7mvonprUT2dMbYr0P6h09vkZDBocsscTfaOOLjn8OIC7LIx5mRKxc0Ew/s640/blogger-image-413292966.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Haigriva, a protective deity</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggmJx4nFwOcNwGc3Mwphr0EWWn7Q3S43c9vE7wJgfmD31ppDBjrNhMHpcHnx19ofdNwTJeWUytIqk2NcPrF5AaeeLjB-gxhd0cGnWKDkHgSQkXu1EIlbtsqydGx6Xs23e7ZvJPxw/s640/blogger-image--2130820209.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggmJx4nFwOcNwGc3Mwphr0EWWn7Q3S43c9vE7wJgfmD31ppDBjrNhMHpcHnx19ofdNwTJeWUytIqk2NcPrF5AaeeLjB-gxhd0cGnWKDkHgSQkXu1EIlbtsqydGx6Xs23e7ZvJPxw/s640/blogger-image--2130820209.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-1yRJrLqN4ovOsrK4NVQR9Yy5-oQe8AuaI21O19zWdxYUcku70snsarOjICuTqsfnYnSNlMLCRkw04T9V7ia8doHJ8uyYJUjdqJN5RegHRsw-59lcOpJSL7GGqMCjYxs9iZvQMw/s640/blogger-image--1897435117.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-1yRJrLqN4ovOsrK4NVQR9Yy5-oQe8AuaI21O19zWdxYUcku70snsarOjICuTqsfnYnSNlMLCRkw04T9V7ia8doHJ8uyYJUjdqJN5RegHRsw-59lcOpJSL7GGqMCjYxs9iZvQMw/s640/blogger-image--1897435117.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Guru Rinpoche or Padmasambhava, a key figure in the first transmission of Buddhism into Tibet</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmDZS1gJCzl377aiKf_LG7thmH9Vq2Qxa-Rjbgzz93tPoDYKSg9PrEs0PFNpTSSZqvQJdT5G31ojCI3hWVPc5fQt9afO_u-pNedLGl1797Kd-N9rD1y11D92NcOjVlheR2H3JajQ/s640/blogger-image-244786667.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmDZS1gJCzl377aiKf_LG7thmH9Vq2Qxa-Rjbgzz93tPoDYKSg9PrEs0PFNpTSSZqvQJdT5G31ojCI3hWVPc5fQt9afO_u-pNedLGl1797Kd-N9rD1y11D92NcOjVlheR2H3JajQ/s640/blogger-image-244786667.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Buddha Śākyamuni with follower on left</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
This was followed by a little tea with our Spiti guide, Tsering, and then some free time in the town itself, full of restaurants, mobile phone shops, adventure tour agents and all the usual paraphernalia of modern day India, including CCTV.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbGkmK7I8Uj89yGC0K40iP8W7-kVdiKf8fVZynsL6yf0YOh_y7HTjMyi8HjsUFBT1RHHdmAloC8cqqAnSzjzbpDKwJAQ2-McsfylJWVqfHP83j_linHjZHdVaGUDhwcsP7h61QWA/s640/blogger-image-138535944.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbGkmK7I8Uj89yGC0K40iP8W7-kVdiKf8fVZynsL6yf0YOh_y7HTjMyi8HjsUFBT1RHHdmAloC8cqqAnSzjzbpDKwJAQ2-McsfylJWVqfHP83j_linHjZHdVaGUDhwcsP7h61QWA/s640/blogger-image-138535944.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Note that the Manali Police are on Facebook too!</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNDR_LuYW_26NDzk661w2Ha_CF8xxhgKeYw3aY_Ut468W2BQCWf4w5iSJ2wp4fXWYAWKOHWWHxTIuP5JWTn8bt1Sk-eeIziK6HIuMyQkKWagqvmsr-FwBIru0n-ZN9feUie8v0kw/s640/blogger-image-382917024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNDR_LuYW_26NDzk661w2Ha_CF8xxhgKeYw3aY_Ut468W2BQCWf4w5iSJ2wp4fXWYAWKOHWWHxTIuP5JWTn8bt1Sk-eeIziK6HIuMyQkKWagqvmsr-FwBIru0n-ZN9feUie8v0kw/s640/blogger-image-382917024.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Manali</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
I walked up the hill to visit the Hadimba Devi Temple, set in attractive woodland of giant deodar (a species of cedar native to the western Himalaya). It houses an ancient cave temple dedicated to the goddess Hadimbi. Based on a story from the <span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Indian epic Mahabharata*, i</span>t is a shrine to Hadimba's sister, who became a goddess. </div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVYpD2tUXOxayMsdPP9qTHdQ6GkDYxpsdxJgHYypWQzjmwN_qFFf7JWx6pZKtCwJROcNBfXC1Yr7AT0QwszpyiAYVa5l5gHIgTCNY31UOVfsNUvS3WrQpOt4Vp3RnV0Wa-AJxFGA/s640/blogger-image-549372614.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVYpD2tUXOxayMsdPP9qTHdQ6GkDYxpsdxJgHYypWQzjmwN_qFFf7JWx6pZKtCwJROcNBfXC1Yr7AT0QwszpyiAYVa5l5gHIgTCNY31UOVfsNUvS3WrQpOt4Vp3RnV0Wa-AJxFGA/s640/blogger-image-549372614.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnxCrXzmAXQG0ED_Y5ix2LfVQf9a72g2w3dbPD_60bcoCja4QFYnSg2daN0oYu1O0P6x7l0zV9dkA6fk8WTEvU27SExz0FBz18ztf1iJ81f41z6LsW2mD3tae5DLLVltg_NQ89WQ/s640/blogger-image-338633691.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnxCrXzmAXQG0ED_Y5ix2LfVQf9a72g2w3dbPD_60bcoCja4QFYnSg2daN0oYu1O0P6x7l0zV9dkA6fk8WTEvU27SExz0FBz18ztf1iJ81f41z6LsW2mD3tae5DLLVltg_NQ89WQ/s640/blogger-image-338633691.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKOXTsvzb9UNZQaH3DVfNqKEtEj-AsNbzYcn0meGMvdFTVgqHQCyNmshEAj1K30MVDKSsSmt6oQIb3Sbkk8ru0xhqSByhxczIoQgkyrVnz3zReSwDVMqm86_lEGFy5yUZ6n7nkLA/s640/blogger-image--315641937.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKOXTsvzb9UNZQaH3DVfNqKEtEj-AsNbzYcn0meGMvdFTVgqHQCyNmshEAj1K30MVDKSsSmt6oQIb3Sbkk8ru0xhqSByhxczIoQgkyrVnz3zReSwDVMqm86_lEGFy5yUZ6n7nkLA/s640/blogger-image--315641937.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
</div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">A large rock occupies the inside of the temple, only a 7.5cm tall brass image representing goddess Hidimdi Devi. A rope hangs down in front of the rock,and according to a legend, in ancient times religious zealots would tie the hands of "sinners" by the rope and then swing them against the rock.</span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"> Hidimba is one of the most powerful and spritualist deities in Kullu valley. The pagoda type wooden temple with intricately carved wooden doors and a wooden shikhara dates from 1553. Allegedly, the carver of the artwork had his hands cut off after completion so that he could never again produce such beautiful work anywhere else.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_9peDt_r4N_DlofzFKvHKCY4UiyOXEIlr4Tjph7333nCO8i08Pm1DLjVL88arDHN2EkesItX394k0G4vDTmD56ACI2vlQrffY84gLccGGXTqaTeA1izR9ILjJYBj5nXYDEnp1_A/s640/blogger-image--141671145.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_9peDt_r4N_DlofzFKvHKCY4UiyOXEIlr4Tjph7333nCO8i08Pm1DLjVL88arDHN2EkesItX394k0G4vDTmD56ACI2vlQrffY84gLccGGXTqaTeA1izR9ILjJYBj5nXYDEnp1_A/s640/blogger-image--141671145.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Rainy afternoon in Manali</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Otherwise, a chilled day to be had, with a 0400 start tomorrow across two high passes, the Rohtang Pass (3980m) and Kunzum Pass (4590m) to reach Kaza in Spiti. Only a 12 hour ride tomorrow...</span></div>
<div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Day 6</span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Shock and awe! A stupendous day. Another long one, almost 13 hours of travelling from Manali, but, quite simply, among the best mountain and high desert vistas I have seen.</span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">We left Manali at 0415, the road up to the Rohtang Pass (52km away) fairly clear of traffic as we ascended in darkness, passing through dense forest and occasional banks of fog. Rising from about 1950m to 3950m meant a steady climb of some two hours, with hardly any relief for our poor vehicle! It reminded me of the climb from Ambleside to the Kirkstone Pass in the English Lake District, except this one took two hours to get up it!</span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmGGontfipdsnMGpHDxspHuISPYel_-unWZ8p7y6PKlZvX8zlh52pzfP_ys1uj-Hruh7YV-wa-Cdt5621VIcEyJgirOMZsLHYa9sn88v89kgX66rWArYwqRyCZNX4NfZ0AyAooUw/s640/blogger-image--1646567701.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmGGontfipdsnMGpHDxspHuISPYel_-unWZ8p7y6PKlZvX8zlh52pzfP_ys1uj-Hruh7YV-wa-Cdt5621VIcEyJgirOMZsLHYa9sn88v89kgX66rWArYwqRyCZNX4NfZ0AyAooUw/s640/blogger-image--1646567701.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8oRBQHRz8dD2dpBgqAtRk4NlOIAi2rqLBjG9F246gEsjLnZKYLkLb8SGUo4_49chLzaKX24FIeitWFIAgesP6a9U-3kUF33_D3P5KC7gQ3IWLJ7nY-JxGZVv5URm_iWff7vYqIg/s640/blogger-image--1930286300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8oRBQHRz8dD2dpBgqAtRk4NlOIAi2rqLBjG9F246gEsjLnZKYLkLb8SGUo4_49chLzaKX24FIeitWFIAgesP6a9U-3kUF33_D3P5KC7gQ3IWLJ7nY-JxGZVv5URm_iWff7vYqIg/s640/blogger-image--1930286300.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnpLXCuXsOSq7d3f4zAmjlf_iAQZPnLNHvGXfjdBmDATMicy1ep2aurHNdEFqJlveO58OYvi8RHcRQchyphenhyphendvs7nrxO-8ccofaE-08DaxDCc50c-xXRBkVYcO9GqbeDDvPpnmqCA7A/s640/blogger-image-841707124.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnpLXCuXsOSq7d3f4zAmjlf_iAQZPnLNHvGXfjdBmDATMicy1ep2aurHNdEFqJlveO58OYvi8RHcRQchyphenhyphendvs7nrxO-8ccofaE-08DaxDCc50c-xXRBkVYcO9GqbeDDvPpnmqCA7A/s640/blogger-image-841707124.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFaVqYa-59TEzGSHX3EOw3tft34W7MJenrmiCtS_Mnx0q_dyykoGMd34qt15fZQPBPO96zi4Ag9rLJbdK6bd16JcU6aJ7Kc5lUw-3aVJVvxsRXTW8cBq0kBbRnR_kCBv4iEapaTw/s640/blogger-image-1696746354.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFaVqYa-59TEzGSHX3EOw3tft34W7MJenrmiCtS_Mnx0q_dyykoGMd34qt15fZQPBPO96zi4Ag9rLJbdK6bd16JcU6aJ7Kc5lUw-3aVJVvxsRXTW8cBq0kBbRnR_kCBv4iEapaTw/s640/blogger-image-1696746354.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNUoZyAYe1zCej8lUmOdxUGPPrpg4GEOVKc50Svpa7mcaGI6c62Yf4BBOA0IRt7y-CRD211U16XvRZoqflBGGu4ZZnOFpKww6eKMS3zLvIRj9lKLw-fhgeiRYtks38g12YV1Dbfw/s640/blogger-image-1001372396.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNUoZyAYe1zCej8lUmOdxUGPPrpg4GEOVKc50Svpa7mcaGI6c62Yf4BBOA0IRt7y-CRD211U16XvRZoqflBGGu4ZZnOFpKww6eKMS3zLvIRj9lKLw-fhgeiRYtks38g12YV1Dbfw/s640/blogger-image-1001372396.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span>
</div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">The road surface was better than expected and drivers on this road showed unexpected courtesy by Indian standards, thankfully waiting for vehicles to pass by on the narrower sections rather than trying to squeeze past and risk the precipitous drop to one side. As we approached the top of the pass, daylight happened upon us, and huge views, often looking down on to the cloud tops, appeared but the road surface had now become very rough, wet and slippery due to a road widening scheme here. But this section was quickly passed and we emerged at the summit, the sun rising behind the mountain peaks ahead of us.</span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">This was our first taste of high mountain country, marked by a white stupa and dilapidated prayer flags, a wonder to behold. The descent was initially on tarmac but very quickly we found ourselves on rough gravel as we negotiated the many switchbacks and steep hairpin bends, magnificent empty country all around us, the region of Lahaul.</span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Then, the inevitable happened. A lorry with broken drive shaft was blocking the road at a narrow point, in fact actually straddling a stream that emanated from a nearby waterfall.</span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQYDKc2DTi7-T0M3efSY4urmuHgYQn7gRP6uJ01bI304RJdLBB8hfhyYK571dyaGxk1EPJWrCeK6Agke6R2wIZyrHVykxGtJEceKqG6pyH_InmaCp8FA3wSzWPQRKAXhPmXqmIpw/s640/blogger-image-52078661.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQYDKc2DTi7-T0M3efSY4urmuHgYQn7gRP6uJ01bI304RJdLBB8hfhyYK571dyaGxk1EPJWrCeK6Agke6R2wIZyrHVykxGtJEceKqG6pyH_InmaCp8FA3wSzWPQRKAXhPmXqmIpw/s640/blogger-image-52078661.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">We waited a while, but it was clearly going to take hours for the driver and all the other lorry drivers now stuck behind him to somehow fix it. So we walked, leaving our vehicles behind, and after a few kilometres found a little teahouse aside a marvellous stupa looking down on the ravine of the Chandra River far below us. Chai and noodles were consumed and as we walked on, the first vehicle came past us, soon followed by our own. The local's solution? Well, just build a new bit of road around the outside of the broken down vehicle. Quite how they managed this I have no idea, but full marks for effort!</span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR7fe_vjoPUi01QC5Szo8KpkxbjH3tq62MCp1FS1d7bnzohyphenhyphen2K5T1fvTHGcfA66UQwtpMA5PGn22W0c_j22WGB1sUG1gt8R087QnLfAcgztuPxvHsjloVR5eC0EhieL8JkAXmzpg/s640/blogger-image--1266345889.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR7fe_vjoPUi01QC5Szo8KpkxbjH3tq62MCp1FS1d7bnzohyphenhyphen2K5T1fvTHGcfA66UQwtpMA5PGn22W0c_j22WGB1sUG1gt8R087QnLfAcgztuPxvHsjloVR5eC0EhieL8JkAXmzpg/s640/blogger-image--1266345889.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Our descent continued for what seemed like hours, continuing along the magnificent Chandra valley, the river in full flow and carrying a heavy sediment. Mountains and glaciers all around us, and hardly a soul to be seen apart from a few beekeepers tending their hives and a few lonely goat herders and shepherds. Awesome, remote space.</span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge2KrxIJY5VpIOaiGaKGd_Jll5uSmpi8kfWjTM2vOknQahgg0NA0Ny6cplPx4pbV3pCXF4FMR80NdiSOrUeqHQ-vgbsuICn41gHiQP8DN6HJOLozLplLGdm3Bm-V8Tdd5pI4jh2w/s640/blogger-image-716374943.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge2KrxIJY5VpIOaiGaKGd_Jll5uSmpi8kfWjTM2vOknQahgg0NA0Ny6cplPx4pbV3pCXF4FMR80NdiSOrUeqHQ-vgbsuICn41gHiQP8DN6HJOLozLplLGdm3Bm-V8Tdd5pI4jh2w/s640/blogger-image-716374943.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">We eventually stopped for lunch at Batal, 3960m, a relatively busy spot for truckers, Israeli backpackers and motorcyclists (enjoying their freedom after military service) and assorted small tourist buses and jeeps. A good dhal, rice and vegetables were enjoyed, then we were off to surmount the big pass of the day, the mighty Kunzum Pass, 4482m, reached by a very dusty series of switchbacks, with only a momentary halt forced by a punctured jeep ahead of us.</span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSwr6g1mCllYOPKmXQysZtAoG4GTaRb-43XsjvkuAkaHR6n2kh5Kn3xF-EaQd-FL9v0mDsSdtJhejwHi2eQtArvgzhKtEv5JbY3KVmxb-TImhU3wA_mvME0ElJYcIy__Yzl1bQ2Q/s640/blogger-image--964997899.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSwr6g1mCllYOPKmXQysZtAoG4GTaRb-43XsjvkuAkaHR6n2kh5Kn3xF-EaQd-FL9v0mDsSdtJhejwHi2eQtArvgzhKtEv5JbY3KVmxb-TImhU3wA_mvME0ElJYcIy__Yzl1bQ2Q/s640/blogger-image--964997899.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">The pass was windy, and typically adorned with stupas, mani walls and a vast array of prayer flags. The view, snow-capped peaks to the west and north, and our objective, the Spiti Valley, ahead of us to the east. The ride into Spiti was a joy. </span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Rather like Ladakh, multi coloured rock strewn mountains 5,000-6,000m in height (in places rather like the technicolour mountains of Landmannalauger in Iceland), amazing 'hoodoes' on the heavily eroded valley sides, eventually broken by patches of green pea and barley cultivation, and, eventually, some signs of habitation starting at the village of Lossar, after which the road surface improved somewhat.</span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuRqv70cO-x9AwrRqX7oRCMSJR1wcBmQCAVbNVnRn5zcpVyMzlBqX_eLYWUBKW-pT4T6x6oFAqrEZwgAeR-_O36UXubBPFMT5bmVJcxKHpyrHJtVpMxWHLwKeVu_eN6kC_LnHwaQ/s1600/P1050540.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuRqv70cO-x9AwrRqX7oRCMSJR1wcBmQCAVbNVnRn5zcpVyMzlBqX_eLYWUBKW-pT4T6x6oFAqrEZwgAeR-_O36UXubBPFMT5bmVJcxKHpyrHJtVpMxWHLwKeVu_eN6kC_LnHwaQ/s640/P1050540.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiho1MUTcZpqy5iaWO5VMlDdwH6yFiRoExSSWEruCBDoWvO_2podf7WgFOaMO1OUx8VgyylJV5ZpoYwUN5WWOEFAZI5ujpGwtnIBbFXYxFmdRM3tLcDYkETrOXh_GhH9SwRAgECQg/s640/blogger-image--1242189637.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiho1MUTcZpqy5iaWO5VMlDdwH6yFiRoExSSWEruCBDoWvO_2podf7WgFOaMO1OUx8VgyylJV5ZpoYwUN5WWOEFAZI5ujpGwtnIBbFXYxFmdRM3tLcDYkETrOXh_GhH9SwRAgECQg/s640/blogger-image--1242189637.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9YGCIRnIG7_YJIJ1cInPbgjKVHqj9NyvadrNwdqgGPWJKzBL5qYAe_jmLc3oKefH6g5Qka9fkyZ69BxMtBRCCGxPkn_JgGiDJzwMlq_0FlMbFlxA_uawzd3W4m4XD9C1DnoUdaA/s640/blogger-image-1408593209.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9YGCIRnIG7_YJIJ1cInPbgjKVHqj9NyvadrNwdqgGPWJKzBL5qYAe_jmLc3oKefH6g5Qka9fkyZ69BxMtBRCCGxPkn_JgGiDJzwMlq_0FlMbFlxA_uawzd3W4m4XD9C1DnoUdaA/s640/blogger-image-1408593209.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span>
</div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">The Spiti Valley is wide at this point, offering expansive views in all directions, with notable sights like the Kee Monastery high up on the cliffs to our left, and finally, Kaza at 3660m, some 220km from our start point.</span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Once just home to 13 families, it's now the capital of Spiti, with a population of some 2,500 people. It's a very small town, with an old town area of typical Tibetan style houses, thick walls, the flat roof covered by wood and hay drying for winter feed for their animals, and prayer flags flying from every rooftop. There's a bustling market at the other end of town, but it has an innocent, friendly feel, and is very new to tourism. </span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">I met Sunil of Ecosphere, the folks who have arranged this adventure. He mentioned that the head of the Sakya-pa sect was visiting the local monastery, and also let slip that HH The Dalai Lama is visiting the region in 2014. Spiti is really getting on the map! Sunil also advised that tomorrow's entry into the Kungri Monastery may have to be put back due to a landslide that has completely blocked vehicular traffic into the Pin Valley.</span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Hey ho! We'll find a way!</span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Our little guesthouse, sitting above the 'Taste of Spiti' restaurant was basic but fine for our purpose, albeit with no electricity or hot water. But who cares, tired, but very happy, our adventure has begun.</span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTIzjTs4UhRxWPFivEkwMTIkF45Acob4eIpb0n6QE-q8TitnMquIxdp8DgheUE2441Ub_SsZOicxbTU5EOcxXQCMigTsPo4OT-TzBsnWqDAUPmyz4S4bcxJbT4NjdRrcQTbUoJOg/s640/blogger-image--1952487152.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTIzjTs4UhRxWPFivEkwMTIkF45Acob4eIpb0n6QE-q8TitnMquIxdp8DgheUE2441Ub_SsZOicxbTU5EOcxXQCMigTsPo4OT-TzBsnWqDAUPmyz4S4bcxJbT4NjdRrcQTbUoJOg/s640/blogger-image--1952487152.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">A few other points of interest on this region. It's cut off by snow for over six months of the year, the passes opening in June and the government mandated to keep them open until the end of September, after which you take your chances! This year, 2013, they has an unusual fall of snow, some 2 feet, in June, reflecting the heavy monsoon which caused devastation in the next state south, Uttarakand. It's this that has knocked out power supplies in Spiti, 40% of Himachal Pradesh state without mains electricity now for over two months. Generators and solar power take some of the edge off though. For us, candles, head torches and cold showers are now the order of the day. </span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">The snow this year stranded a group of trekkers. They were helicoptered out by the Indian Army, a relief flight subsidised under a Rural Aid scheme, and therefore quite inexpensive. But to have got a private helicopter would have cost 10 times more!</span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">So what do the locals do during the months they are shut off from the rest if the world? Well, judging by comments from our guide, the men play cards and drink chang, whilst the women tend to kids, prepare food, weave carpets and make socks and hats, etc. Sound familiar?</span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Day 7</span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">A disturbed night. The village dogs performed as usual, kids were playing out late, a local Buddhist temple had drums and horns being played late evening, and a nearby generator chugged away. </span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">The landslide in the Pin Valley is still making access exceedingly difficult, so today's plan is to visit the Tabo Monastery, some two hours further along the Spiti Valley from Kaza. However, we first had a short introduction to Buddhism by Sunil of Ecosphere and a short while to explore Kaza and avail ourselves of the unreliable internet connections in the few Internet cafes now springing up here. It's indicative of the number of Israeli travellers who pass this way that many of the cafes here offer 'Israeli Food' on their hoardings.</span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Proceeding further along the Spiti Valley it gets increasingly vertiginous in places, but that is soon overshadowed by the sight of the snow capped peaks in the direction of the Tibetan border, now under 75km from here. Once again, truly spectacular driving along a narrow gravel road, with evidence of frequent rock fall and landslides. </span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4-yGbBv3YOKUGtFusCSKSYNcMdzXie4DZe2-xjsobh1ofNTDGpjj_1hFUd9KcovT2gtLESpcxfHT_Heu02Woggf6VYaYV-6rCdLgD69RaNU67m_u3izroZ8SpnJlB1RIGWx3Jvw/s640/blogger-image--521338757.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4-yGbBv3YOKUGtFusCSKSYNcMdzXie4DZe2-xjsobh1ofNTDGpjj_1hFUd9KcovT2gtLESpcxfHT_Heu02Woggf6VYaYV-6rCdLgD69RaNU67m_u3izroZ8SpnJlB1RIGWx3Jvw/s640/blogger-image--521338757.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhytIsd4mxhLWW8qDSu__Amoupf6EalSiJq-pS9VvU-v4b9QXxyMAxsudYdTImsvYhTUoNE5t_9x7VGyuBovC9hyZ1qY9urO0kNUjBmV-zxzDzPpnOieZT7sChhkGcFaCNz2u73iw/s640/blogger-image--1615776595.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhytIsd4mxhLWW8qDSu__Amoupf6EalSiJq-pS9VvU-v4b9QXxyMAxsudYdTImsvYhTUoNE5t_9x7VGyuBovC9hyZ1qY9urO0kNUjBmV-zxzDzPpnOieZT7sChhkGcFaCNz2u73iw/s640/blogger-image--1615776595.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span>
</div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Access to Tabo Monastery was a little time restricted due to the death of the secondmost senior abbot the day before our visit, but we were able to visit Spiti's most important monastery, attributed to the royal lama Ye-she-'od in 996 CE (he later collaborated with the great translator Rinchen Zangpo). </span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">The central temple features the four-headed Vairocana, and is, in fact, a mandala, containing many ancient frescoes and 32 clay figures representing Bodhisattvas of the Vajradhātu-mandala. Photography is, of course, forbidden inside the temple, unless you obtain a special permit from Shimla. In all, there are nine temples here with 23 chortens, and Tabo's architecture and iconographic style reflect its early origins. We were able to visit the Central Temple, the Golden Temple and Mandala Temple, all containing priceless Buddhist images. The monastery had started as a Nyingma-pa temple, but has since been adapted to Gelug-pa. The Dalai Lama is scheduled to make a repeat visit here in 2014 (he celebrated the millennium anniversary there in 1996). </span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8-DNzigA7YsUhLc0JZ8bEvBKv3yN2DEaq4da-h9lmjPjbJ_kElNvAq4JzpO3EJKYwq5pxztuTzt83jjNwCHrQhneCDeZle_rcZ6IsEtvf-12liVONP4b5GzEiEaoRM8JgODk03Q/s640/blogger-image-1161267349.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8-DNzigA7YsUhLc0JZ8bEvBKv3yN2DEaq4da-h9lmjPjbJ_kElNvAq4JzpO3EJKYwq5pxztuTzt83jjNwCHrQhneCDeZle_rcZ6IsEtvf-12liVONP4b5GzEiEaoRM8JgODk03Q/s640/blogger-image-1161267349.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibL2Oo6BFJ-pbr4AtRznESCDZvYNn2IjDTrhpB0X-vt0UdO6-SyFxfNcTGI0lGVOTPVwIinNBq85Xb6n5tOgV7Macz88l4VJag8UBFPs1Adb_LbrBDFchFuR5zemSccm_p16mDsA/s640/blogger-image-1967697131.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibL2Oo6BFJ-pbr4AtRznESCDZvYNn2IjDTrhpB0X-vt0UdO6-SyFxfNcTGI0lGVOTPVwIinNBq85Xb6n5tOgV7Macz88l4VJag8UBFPs1Adb_LbrBDFchFuR5zemSccm_p16mDsA/s640/blogger-image-1967697131.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span>
</div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">After a quick tea break at our stop-off for the night, the Maitreya Guest House, we walked up to the meditation caves on the adjacent hill side, preparations already underway up there for the cremation of the deceased abbot tomorrow. Tonight in Tabo we're a little lower than Kaza, at 3330m, and the lack of light from the village and crystal clear skies gave us an opportunity for a little star gazing from the rooftop. Otherwise, the usual routine prevailed, early dinner, early night, dogs barking. Earplugs to the rescue!</span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Day 8</span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">It was obviously meant to be. Our delayed entry into Kungri Monastery had led us to Tabo earlier than scheduled, but this meant that we were able to witness the cremation parade for the head lama of Tabo Monastery, who had died, apparently just preparing himself for some meditation, a couple of days earlier. </span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Armed with burning incense sticks we joined a row of villagers queuing alongside the monastery in readiness for the procession. Everyone, man, woman and child, were quietly chanting a mantra used for these occasions. It was hugely atmospheric in the bright morning sunshine, the village ringed by huge mountains on all sides.</span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRys9YM9bD79hhykb9OFoR_1QM9cvu-KMQAKXO-hsZA2Szwx06j89OfC0TT033tvXo7G3DDsQTasEcizITwqfhQ3gDGNmJ1yiHraL2tZztEhsNGCvPHGXq1b6U5-46dUZurUIQiQ/s640/blogger-image-1313002540.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRys9YM9bD79hhykb9OFoR_1QM9cvu-KMQAKXO-hsZA2Szwx06j89OfC0TT033tvXo7G3DDsQTasEcizITwqfhQ3gDGNmJ1yiHraL2tZztEhsNGCvPHGXq1b6U5-46dUZurUIQiQ/s640/blogger-image-1313002540.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgplGfmioe6lVw1noXYkXs0KaIUrV7U-jv_REFCuFr7IDxGvCg_KBgwelG7Vw_kZzPe4pwnS4xNuyXoHY2Mk11kQ_fIF_vgEP5wmRyoppO2e-4TeISQtKPfqPkO5yXNtCQMZCLp3w/s640/blogger-image--714876822.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgplGfmioe6lVw1noXYkXs0KaIUrV7U-jv_REFCuFr7IDxGvCg_KBgwelG7Vw_kZzPe4pwnS4xNuyXoHY2Mk11kQ_fIF_vgEP5wmRyoppO2e-4TeISQtKPfqPkO5yXNtCQMZCLp3w/s640/blogger-image--714876822.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span>
</div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">As the procession of monks appeared, a single monk blowing on a conch horn followed by monks bearing a large coffin covered in white silk, the women spread flower petals on the path ahead of them.</span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">As the procession passed, everyone fell in behind the coffin, circumnambulating the monastery's outer walls and spinning prayer wheels as they advanced, before it started its way up the hill to the cremation site up at the meditation caves. We left the procession at this point, grabbed some breakfast, and heading out of Tabo caught sight of the first smoke from the pyre, white clouds billowing over the barren mountain slopes. </span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh85L8SxImaSP92a__7TDRhnNSn4Fvpahl-q0xeOuaAB-pSlxNIN1vYbVy8G4F75RQSUBZuSB_9NV_D_tjKw9Pmx_Iw2P3naj5QJu10TFQis_NvS60veqmveVJDOKr1esR39GNDDg/s640/blogger-image--1079249772.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh85L8SxImaSP92a__7TDRhnNSn4Fvpahl-q0xeOuaAB-pSlxNIN1vYbVy8G4F75RQSUBZuSB_9NV_D_tjKw9Pmx_Iw2P3naj5QJu10TFQis_NvS60veqmveVJDOKr1esR39GNDDg/s640/blogger-image--1079249772.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3CLnxSiI2ENCVp1e96y1c-27w0xec2muOWHSUNR0zDlZWlCmi270tRkJ4XA8VayGq4iSGq5MqXDc4pvWTZ-Vb3D5REFU38OtDzGK0o0ResU9jkSp2_3YQBypgXNnsoZYv9UskRg/s640/blogger-image-409448196.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3CLnxSiI2ENCVp1e96y1c-27w0xec2muOWHSUNR0zDlZWlCmi270tRkJ4XA8VayGq4iSGq5MqXDc4pvWTZ-Vb3D5REFU38OtDzGK0o0ResU9jkSp2_3YQBypgXNnsoZYv9UskRg/s640/blogger-image-409448196.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span>
</div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">So, we had a somewhat delayed start, but it served to create the right mindset for the days ahead in the monastery. </span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">We retraced our steps back towards Kaza, and after an hour or so of bumpy travelling, we passed through the village of Schiccilling, and then turned off the 'main road' for an 8km uphill stretch to the magnificent Dhankar Monastery, a fort monastery dating from the 9th to 15th century, and also now the site of Dhankar Tashi Choling Monastery (Gelug-pa), consecrated by the Dalai Lama in 2009. Dhankar translates to a 'fort on a cliff' and it was once home to the early rulers of Spiti, the Nonos, and was in fact the capital of Spiti in the 17th century. </span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfbt74CIwuoeL1m_iPAtVdDNws8zonFhTqx3JwAnic1rfkfganm0dgLUjcs_vT6N7cL-B3lIrj4Hk6hs9YPqXRgAsZDEgeamjF8jq3UHzzQFcwTOl1Fukk4Pwt6i14csDqeVx-5w/s640/blogger-image--1358136167.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfbt74CIwuoeL1m_iPAtVdDNws8zonFhTqx3JwAnic1rfkfganm0dgLUjcs_vT6N7cL-B3lIrj4Hk6hs9YPqXRgAsZDEgeamjF8jq3UHzzQFcwTOl1Fukk4Pwt6i14csDqeVx-5w/s640/blogger-image--1358136167.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjTEA8ypjz85fTQS7jZvDYbQcygFafeYfH4oCTVjTbFFTA4YWlJN0j-C1I9L58u3cdFT4SFx4gpxO3zuNnex1KWHeZejS6ohedFJaagRz4aM13LUShK54xCx4AZT7pIHtHX3CivA/s640/blogger-image--1162107428.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjTEA8ypjz85fTQS7jZvDYbQcygFafeYfH4oCTVjTbFFTA4YWlJN0j-C1I9L58u3cdFT4SFx4gpxO3zuNnex1KWHeZejS6ohedFJaagRz4aM13LUShK54xCx4AZT7pIHtHX3CivA/s640/blogger-image--1162107428.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc6Ovyr6RGXQ8XH0qvkvv8DRRJqicK9cXC08KR7qa67WRa6d3W_EwTkTcy2vS2r3nFL7_bcIGk-2uylLMXo4rZJ3UzaSVeTxjd0Smm2yEKYVKR7D1pIaFjISJPwu4fwN-oIzbKyQ/s640/blogger-image--608300253.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc6Ovyr6RGXQ8XH0qvkvv8DRRJqicK9cXC08KR7qa67WRa6d3W_EwTkTcy2vS2r3nFL7_bcIGk-2uylLMXo4rZJ3UzaSVeTxjd0Smm2yEKYVKR7D1pIaFjISJPwu4fwN-oIzbKyQ/s640/blogger-image--608300253.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY_Fh_9Fi2AjB0tEdi57xw9osyO-7VLACVgjxMvoBwrcI-7hWh1epNqQ8rZv86YGAxB9CTa1sa5MjgCRrPowQzIeLVJULf-tPwXt8Z2l88b5paWMXpQMTuKkNwJ4UCw0D6zw01jg/s640/blogger-image-1737133907.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY_Fh_9Fi2AjB0tEdi57xw9osyO-7VLACVgjxMvoBwrcI-7hWh1epNqQ8rZv86YGAxB9CTa1sa5MjgCRrPowQzIeLVJULf-tPwXt8Z2l88b5paWMXpQMTuKkNwJ4UCw0D6zw01jg/s640/blogger-image-1737133907.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm3LgCKssAkdO6o5bIAtqpZFjB6vG73QpfH6SFyVZaLwX6p1BNZYSLSKpcCx291YEvK_aF2GRCjlCB_NNSSizTd_5KURIrZIg5KE6FGVCj2jGUo0RbOf2OC1oC8-gLwFYe2K3oJg/s640/blogger-image-325530709.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm3LgCKssAkdO6o5bIAtqpZFjB6vG73QpfH6SFyVZaLwX6p1BNZYSLSKpcCx291YEvK_aF2GRCjlCB_NNSSizTd_5KURIrZIg5KE6FGVCj2jGUo0RbOf2OC1oC8-gLwFYe2K3oJg/s640/blogger-image-325530709.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span>
</div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">The uppermost part of the nearby old temple complex, reached by a short scramble, has a tiny chapel, the Lhakchang Gompa, and we were given the chance to do a short meditation here, surrounded by images of the Dhyani Buddhas.</span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">We then worked our way downhill to the main hall, the dukhang, which features a silver Maitreya statue encased in glass, and the walls festooned with many thangkas. Sadly, the original frescoes here were water damaged and therefore no longer visible, unable to support the local claim that this is Spiti's oldest monastery. Set amongst the buildings of the Dhankar village the old temple complex offers a marvellous view down into the Spiti river and its confluence with the Pin river, and from here it was very obvious that the latter was carrying a very heavy sediment load, almost black in colour, as a result of the landslide that was to prove our challenge a little later.</span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_DHD131kejJQhkzXMr8s5-tAf1ZLMM-IVCjDf_pRktaJ1zgf-LCtYoXYKcmDnwa8yhJJ9VzWDLv5l7qEsuAWBxWhs5OwXkZ6OfNdGNMKYmdA-3w71R6PAqPmHorvu8o6QiYdL_Q/s640/blogger-image--584916807.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_DHD131kejJQhkzXMr8s5-tAf1ZLMM-IVCjDf_pRktaJ1zgf-LCtYoXYKcmDnwa8yhJJ9VzWDLv5l7qEsuAWBxWhs5OwXkZ6OfNdGNMKYmdA-3w71R6PAqPmHorvu8o6QiYdL_Q/s640/blogger-image--584916807.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">After lunch in a small restaurant next to the new monastery we backtracked downhill and headed in the direction of Kaza before turning left into the Pin Valley, a bridge taking us on to a tarmac road. About 10km later we were confronted with the devastation of the landslide. Huge slopes, adjacent to another river valley entering from the west, had collapsed. Massive boulders, at the base of the slope, with some scree slopes still running downhill, and a large fan of dark grey silt had taken out the road here. The silt is like quicksand, and yours truly christened his new lightweight trekking boots in this gloopy mess. </span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVQ0ELh64T7-6N-qXtlWbkt_LO0opl3I1bR2hb6HyvGDdR2LnmWJIDMhyfpAKDUf-wtdT0HTaESgOBX4sF8zbut4604G7IJe0YBgsFBMtzRusd1CUtdgGhC6D4GTL7w_cMaj3bHA/s640/blogger-image--1621821331.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVQ0ELh64T7-6N-qXtlWbkt_LO0opl3I1bR2hb6HyvGDdR2LnmWJIDMhyfpAKDUf-wtdT0HTaESgOBX4sF8zbut4604G7IJe0YBgsFBMtzRusd1CUtdgGhC6D4GTL7w_cMaj3bHA/s640/blogger-image--1621821331.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYRi797zgIv-gOwFitC9iJn4r5TJwnv2QGfiP0jrsVoFXQFcBjFdIR3VDKhBDd8sqfb3kNPYh7ctZUIBy8mDQlE8tSDcWSaY6qdgHqt5FczHkD_GGX6fKJciBNQnasvOc6kJ58bw/s640/blogger-image--1960671122.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYRi797zgIv-gOwFitC9iJn4r5TJwnv2QGfiP0jrsVoFXQFcBjFdIR3VDKhBDd8sqfb3kNPYh7ctZUIBy8mDQlE8tSDcWSaY6qdgHqt5FczHkD_GGX6fKJciBNQnasvOc6kJ58bw/s640/blogger-image--1960671122.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span>
</div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">A couple of bulldozers were working away, but most of the reconstruction work was in the hands, quite literally, of an army of villagers from the Pin Valley, clearing rubble and laying down new rocks to form an embryonic pathway, soon to be a road again. Their imperative - to move their freshly harvested green pea crop to market before it rots - vital given that it represents 75% of the valley's annual income. </span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">So we had to decamp from our vehicle, manhandle our luggage across the gloopy mud, crossing a small river to reach the road at the far side of the landslide, two local jeeps waiting to transport us the 30 minutes or so uphill to the monastery.</span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">The Urygen Sang Choling Monastery in Kungri is Spiti's second oldest monastery and has recently been renovated with the help of some large foreign donations, currently housing 75 monks. There is a small nunnery nearby. </span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUs0uA-73bFd28VEqpyZl2oyaPxQ7FJr9qPfeQvvOLKXyKfUaQB_Ceojd7laQe-99gESAD1cAElDybv8pauvLej4oLK5gHCyCp7ve3iqe6r_BkH_Nbg9oVbbkrBck0vixmuiWN_Q/s640/blogger-image-1366766153.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUs0uA-73bFd28VEqpyZl2oyaPxQ7FJr9qPfeQvvOLKXyKfUaQB_Ceojd7laQe-99gESAD1cAElDybv8pauvLej4oLK5gHCyCp7ve3iqe6r_BkH_Nbg9oVbbkrBck0vixmuiWN_Q/s640/blogger-image-1366766153.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">We were shown our rooms, shared but relatively spacious, and, as we were to discover later, powered by a generator from 2000-2200 each evening to enable monks to study. Basic, but better than expectations.</span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB9_Uplz13ghBDDwQ7WSQhyASGWgsfHEsKG74WampXFwEEi4a3ht1AaH0NJI-0UY-D7ya9epsuPK0Omfuh-eTQ_7h-kfHOtlJVZMwG4liw-E6BBNvmKbQOZ0W4qM1N2Z7a-Tfjqw/s640/blogger-image-1721598416.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB9_Uplz13ghBDDwQ7WSQhyASGWgsfHEsKG74WampXFwEEi4a3ht1AaH0NJI-0UY-D7ya9epsuPK0Omfuh-eTQ_7h-kfHOtlJVZMwG4liw-E6BBNvmKbQOZ0W4qM1N2Z7a-Tfjqw/s640/blogger-image-1721598416.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">We settled in, had a short briefing, a dinner of rice and dhal and (inevitably) green peas, and then enjoyed some chill time. An eventful day </span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Day 9</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Our life as 'temporary monks' starts today. We were spared the 0400 prayer session (but only for today) as we needed to take our vows with the Khempo (a senior teacher) beforehand. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Although not compulsory for us, part of monastic practice is to have your head shaved and four of our number elected to do this, the monastery administrator also 'administering' the clippers, shearing the guys standing on the roof of one of the wings of the monastery. The practice is firstly for hygiene within the enclosed environment of the monastery, and second it's all about reducing ego, and ensuring equanimity within the community. Unfortunately my ego is too big, and I couldn't stand the ribbing in the pub when I get back, so I still have my hair!</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjo_YnzbXHAozME1UI_DBX9N7KVDpPwmLTv2a9X22nfC4uPXY3Ja37Hn4l8LmAI4I0B5M2AJsWJEvpflHmOpXmnYpRZj4RatvlMJ8QL0zvYbJ3jTT_eurVjTOPv-_GVAfNReFdNA/s640/blogger-image--399041294.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjo_YnzbXHAozME1UI_DBX9N7KVDpPwmLTv2a9X22nfC4uPXY3Ja37Hn4l8LmAI4I0B5M2AJsWJEvpflHmOpXmnYpRZj4RatvlMJ8QL0zvYbJ3jTT_eurVjTOPv-_GVAfNReFdNA/s640/blogger-image--399041294.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBK6TweSVTQlM9EWLLUON0Ma-YK3H79GUKqHe_eNR0GX0u7MJEHs4KEgEO06ubWYNmQ_81MCmuqbHZ0xVytBzzis3P_-9yjJh4hS2GzoNu2ka2aV80uB1Tx5qbZAEJons_-AKESw/s640/blogger-image-1952677184.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBK6TweSVTQlM9EWLLUON0Ma-YK3H79GUKqHe_eNR0GX0u7MJEHs4KEgEO06ubWYNmQ_81MCmuqbHZ0xVytBzzis3P_-9yjJh4hS2GzoNu2ka2aV80uB1Tx5qbZAEJons_-AKESw/s640/blogger-image-1952677184.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAuNIyCr5PtjcjCa96tlO244mFNTefWqpci1O064gQNgvMAMdNZvG4ROes4aHDEdwglXOj9S5Isdh3IdCGYR_SQymqnfdYcNWiZJDwahE3mI5o_FbSag9q-aegxenFABi_v0kpqw/s640/blogger-image--1491973994.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAuNIyCr5PtjcjCa96tlO244mFNTefWqpci1O064gQNgvMAMdNZvG4ROes4aHDEdwglXOj9S5Isdh3IdCGYR_SQymqnfdYcNWiZJDwahE3mI5o_FbSag9q-aegxenFABi_v0kpqw/s640/blogger-image--1491973994.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span>
</div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Having done this, we met the Khempo for an introductory meeting after which we saw him individually to take our vows, which then remain applicable for our time in the monastery. So, early afternoon it was my turn to meet Khempo Tsewang Ringzin, and sitting before him he explained the vows I would be making:</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">To take refuge in the Three Jewels - Buddha, Dharma and Sangha</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">To refrain from killing anything, even the smallest insect</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">To refrain from telling untruths</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">To refrain from stealing</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">To refrain from consuming intoxicants</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">To refrain from music and dance</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Of course, up here in the monastery it shouldn't be too difficult to follow these. There's no mozzies up here and a few days off the beer should be a good thing, right?</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Seriously though, the ceremony was a solemn one, and I was asked to kneel and repeat the vows in Tibetan after him, each one interspersed by the Khempo reciting a prayer. Finally I was given my monastic name, Nawang Kungh (pronounced 'Koonga'). Nawang meaning 'good speaker with self confidence' and Kungh meaning 'a person who is liked by many'. Well, OK with the former (although some would say I frequently talk rubbish) but I'm sure there'd be a few dissenters on the latter. Might even have it tattooed. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Um. Probably not.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Those who had had their head shaved had been left a small tuft of hair at the back. The Khempo cut this off after the vows were completed. A small tuft of my hair was also cut...as if I could spare it!</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">The rest of the day was spent with the Khempo, who wanted to take us through the reasons for the vows and the thinking behind them, to talk us through the background to the early summer retreat that the whole monastery is in at present, give us some background to the four sects in Tibetan Buddhism, and brief us on meditation practice. Far too much in too short a time, particularly when his spoken English was poor. But we were in the presence of a <i>tulku, </i>a reincarnate of a previous great teacher, and it was clear that he had great command of his subject, plus being a really nice guy. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Some of us then sat in for the last part of afternoon prayers, the rhythmic recitation interspersed with the usual cacophony of horns, trumpets, drums and conch shells. A key part of my stay here is to understand these ritual practices, otherwise I'll be unable to cover these adequately in my planned book on Buddhism in the Himalaya.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">A weird day, but tomorrow we follow the daily life of the monks:</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="tel:0400-0600" x-apple-data-detectors-result="1" x-apple-data-detectors-type="telephone" x-apple-data-detectors="true">0400-0600</a> Prayers</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="tel:0900-0930" x-apple-data-detectors-result="2" x-apple-data-detectors-type="telephone" x-apple-data-detectors="true">0900-0930</a> Breakfast</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">1000-1130 Class</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">1200 Lunch</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">1400-1500 Class</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">1500 Tea</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">1600-1700 Prayers</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">1900 Dinner</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">I need a holiday already....and we've just heard that there's been another landslide at the same spot. We may be here some time...</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Day 10</span></div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Up at 0330 and into the main assembly hall for morning prayers. I got there early to find two monks blowing hard into conch shells to summon the monks from their slumbers. It's a large and well lit assembly hall (dukhang), and the quality of images reflects the recency of the renovation. The central feature of the temple is Śākyamuni Buddha, flanked by Guru Rinpoche and a Tārā. There are eleven different mandala painted on ceiling panels. The side walls have a total of one thousand small golden Buddhas and one thousand golden Padmasambhavas, and the rear wall has four magnificent Dharmapāla (Protector Deities) painted on it. The entrance vestibule (sgo-khang) has the Four Guardian Kings in resplendent colours.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOokuNLZ9Y7BoLPbIHPTtt3MH_OKOBbfP3hbhS0sQ6PEvZUJSf_gHn8JolG1-R0uRbxVfHJKIqPSNU0Uaficj7blXZksqtUvtv4IeV6ZuFvwPTBojV5MzXUmkNOf_CSEDNOMsaqA/s640/blogger-image--460941910.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOokuNLZ9Y7BoLPbIHPTtt3MH_OKOBbfP3hbhS0sQ6PEvZUJSf_gHn8JolG1-R0uRbxVfHJKIqPSNU0Uaficj7blXZksqtUvtv4IeV6ZuFvwPTBojV5MzXUmkNOf_CSEDNOMsaqA/s640/blogger-image--460941910.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">The senior monks, about ten in number, arrived at 0400 and proceeded with three full prostrations on entry, followed by lower ranked monks who repeated the ritual. There is a senior monk who then leads the session, flanked by another who led some prayers and kept the beat for some of them with a bell. The full programme lasted until 0545, and was mainly serious in nature, with spoken prayer, some sung mantra, and one section interspersed with sound from conch, long horns (tong-chen), bells, an oboe like instrument, cymbals and two large drums. It was not all serious though, one of the conch horn participants blowing one hard in the ear of his neighbour to wake him up and prodding him on the head with it on another occasion, and even the senior monks seemed to be sharing a joke just before the session concluded.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEginID_oIw6t-yJAh1Wh7QWThvCV5p5JtUbA9XA4MGFYWTHNReDo5uomZXmfH4mnONMYw5Q_T0VO-JVPZp0Fr1y1P7iDkxn-hokeKrG3Ywc2ScNv4-DG-EQiEF7EzuMYuwpPfnGAg/s640/blogger-image-725142892.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEginID_oIw6t-yJAh1Wh7QWThvCV5p5JtUbA9XA4MGFYWTHNReDo5uomZXmfH4mnONMYw5Q_T0VO-JVPZp0Fr1y1P7iDkxn-hokeKrG3Ywc2ScNv4-DG-EQiEF7EzuMYuwpPfnGAg/s640/blogger-image-725142892.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0dIswxnpkQkL-NMnT8FEM48wP9fEl5-Aylc8SFw1ymK6JF-I26AvI2bBNpS6ETCzrew3TKagn2s-GEEt8kBuWTVb0wrP5JFG7RaWax1bv6pm6XIf4-JtO1WvdyvCCFXRsLbOaNw/s640/blogger-image--202858269.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0dIswxnpkQkL-NMnT8FEM48wP9fEl5-Aylc8SFw1ymK6JF-I26AvI2bBNpS6ETCzrew3TKagn2s-GEEt8kBuWTVb0wrP5JFG7RaWax1bv6pm6XIf4-JtO1WvdyvCCFXRsLbOaNw/s640/blogger-image--202858269.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span>
</div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">As I write this, at 0700, another prayer session is underway in the Rinpoche's residence directly behind our room, and nuns are present. A different set of prayers, and much of it sung, accompanied by bells, cymbals and small drums. This was a special ceremony as it's the tenth day of the month in the Tibetan calendar and this is when special homage is made to Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche), one of the founders of the Nyingma-pa. An atmospheric start to the day.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">After breakfast, classes started, today with another Khempo who took us through the rudiments of the Tibetan alphabet (in this case, Bhoti, a western Tibet form) and then some mantra basics. Our mantra for the day - <i>Om Ah Hung Vajra Guru Padma Siddhi Hung</i> - a homage to Padmasambhava, and to be repeated as many times as possible. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">The afternoon session covered some of the ritual instruments used during the prayer sessions, employed during tantric prayer sessions to further concentration, to attract protector deities, and in special ceremonies, to invoke the presence of the celestial Buddhas, Bodhisattvas and their attendants. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_qCYON8BdT3o7U5CtIwQRidrwRNx77rzJaGLfslSWPH8GWzWcCqMiWl8obLW0I3S_her8r1I6NN9gH97Gy561WsU2zcICJM-bxihzfp5CA3UOsJWU_jLzqkUdhIBpOlqp88Zn-w/s640/blogger-image-1455155249.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_qCYON8BdT3o7U5CtIwQRidrwRNx77rzJaGLfslSWPH8GWzWcCqMiWl8obLW0I3S_her8r1I6NN9gH97Gy561WsU2zcICJM-bxihzfp5CA3UOsJWU_jLzqkUdhIBpOlqp88Zn-w/s640/blogger-image-1455155249.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">We then had a tour of the older parts of the monastery, firstly the Guru la-kang, a small but atmospheric chapel dedicated to Padmasambhava. Next, the older chapel, the Sug la-kang, devoted to peace and protection of the valley, and an adjacent room containing a large prayer wheel and a statue of Avalokiteśvara's parents in yabyum. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">The day concluded with the shorter afternoon prayer session, attended by many of the younger monks and it was a fairly relaxed affair. Local ladies and girls served us puri and a curd sauce to accompany it, and biscuits and nuts were also distributed along with sweet milky tea. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoQsd2QZv-4JoMhYFPwrxRfYcl-2gBHGrmz4U7tb2_tmWgeMYPCh7lH_O19Sz2P2-GcA0yuHakRNGEro9WSwil6aDS3MCGgXsXqxLeP1BhwM9QkpGvo_DmI2yBd0BVaDBhzAi9QQ/s640/blogger-image--1078640362.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoQsd2QZv-4JoMhYFPwrxRfYcl-2gBHGrmz4U7tb2_tmWgeMYPCh7lH_O19Sz2P2-GcA0yuHakRNGEro9WSwil6aDS3MCGgXsXqxLeP1BhwM9QkpGvo_DmI2yBd0BVaDBhzAi9QQ/s640/blogger-image--1078640362.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">We concluded the day with a yoga session in the library behind the main assembly hall, which I led, and this helped to close the day nicely. We had a quick climb up on to the roof of the main hall, with great views of the adjacent village and the valley setting below the mountains all around. We also happened upon a store room containing ceremonial objects, a three-dimensional mandala, face masks for the Cham Dances that happen in June every year and a marvellous statute of Samantabhadra (</span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Kuntuzangpo in Tibetan) </span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">and Samantabadri in yabyum (both in a vivid blue colour).</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMzxFkgU1DuU3widFGZhCD1MS2QUX7HeWBRgi-6OUsSttUaBsFMmm93SaseH0_VrcsxPvJgpF4BDLMGfl8WH37tVff6UhyEO2qAxoVqp4yhxC9CRes98JLNLVnqe360uC6fHM_aw/s640/blogger-image--1792851570.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMzxFkgU1DuU3widFGZhCD1MS2QUX7HeWBRgi-6OUsSttUaBsFMmm93SaseH0_VrcsxPvJgpF4BDLMGfl8WH37tVff6UhyEO2qAxoVqp4yhxC9CRes98JLNLVnqe360uC6fHM_aw/s640/blogger-image--1792851570.jpg" /></a></span></div>
</div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8QKNNIpUyUx7Fb5kEUqRQrmpWTt_3tZBZDyObbacbybqi6l6ZO1pSI03mn7nyRQqD0cgEt63aLYeoEiT9jgThu2i6_eMdW6bb_85gfPzGZ_v2jQo0XPqe6rM0Pli5rCtw3mSnrg/s640/blogger-image--1283219129.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8QKNNIpUyUx7Fb5kEUqRQrmpWTt_3tZBZDyObbacbybqi6l6ZO1pSI03mn7nyRQqD0cgEt63aLYeoEiT9jgThu2i6_eMdW6bb_85gfPzGZ_v2jQo0XPqe6rM0Pli5rCtw3mSnrg/s640/blogger-image--1283219129.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">But I'm now bored with food, as expected. Lots of rice and dhal, never my favourite, and I'm down to two meals a day, rather like my time in an ashram back in 2011, the appetite also affected by altitude. Also we've discovered that the water supply is unreliable...often there's no water in our shared washroom, so it's back to wet wipes again!</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">An early night.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Day 11</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Up at 0345 and in the prayer hall for 0400. The monks had had their day off yesterday, as is the case every Friday, so they had been engaged in clothes washing, badminton and volleyball, or otherwise chilling out. But it had obviously taken its toll, as most turned up late, the younger ones yawning their way through the session. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Today's prayers were simpler and commenced with monks performing multiple prostrations at the start, before a series of prayers accompanied by a bell or drum beat. It was very hypnotic and helped facilitate a little meditation, somewhat easier today as we are all getting used to sitting on the floor for long periods. Sweet tea and a pack of biscuits were most welcome at 0500.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Our first class took us through the methods of teaching in the Nyingma-pa sect, with three routes depending on how quickly Enlightenment might be achieved. The afternoon session, following a raid for chocolate in the little shop just up in the adjacent village, covered the different lineages, from Kama, the written teachings, to Terma, the mystical 'Treasure Teachings' passed down from Padmasambhava. </span></div>
</div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEmjywM4D_6ucrFfvXB10o-7vwGmCj9958iTAE9Kw5ea3OX0mKfdl1vab_EbLp6AF51VBGeGID4BfqYOVaYMBRcFHSNFlk7mGR7_rz5IF_DVl5g5qZSNffi750IDOuLiajXHMPFg/s640/blogger-image--98398911.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEmjywM4D_6ucrFfvXB10o-7vwGmCj9958iTAE9Kw5ea3OX0mKfdl1vab_EbLp6AF51VBGeGID4BfqYOVaYMBRcFHSNFlk7mGR7_rz5IF_DVl5g5qZSNffi750IDOuLiajXHMPFg/s640/blogger-image--98398911.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Before dinner a few us walked up to the site of the Rinpoche's new house and retreat, close to a meditation cave high up in a remote is valley. The views were stupendous, the late afternoon light bringing the marvellous rock scenery in this region into sharp relief. From there we took a rough road down to the nunnery and had some refreshments with an volunteer American woman who was teaching the nuns English. Dinner, early to bed as usual.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Day 12</span></div>
<div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Final full day in the monastery, same routine except there was a sudden possibility to go and meet the Rinpoche before he left for a three day trip. This proved to be a false alarm, his itinerary probably brought forward because of the need to walk around the landslide site which is now blocked again. Incidentally this means we'll probably have to walk out of the valley as well, and, interestingly this means crossing a fast flowing river in a rope chair set up. That'll be another new experience!</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">So, back into the routine. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPm7qtJprd7Yog3o2eBmBBy8-LLs9QaNQANXY2IqADb-7bm5ifds5cY3nOqrXvKJ47WdaTZxy2mfEzNXBKUvpzI-jPd8nWYbpKUEHqaVM7vtKvldtsET4Ry0aVDNeugHjK95cTWw/s640/blogger-image-1124206843.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPm7qtJprd7Yog3o2eBmBBy8-LLs9QaNQANXY2IqADb-7bm5ifds5cY3nOqrXvKJ47WdaTZxy2mfEzNXBKUvpzI-jPd8nWYbpKUEHqaVM7vtKvldtsET4Ry0aVDNeugHjK95cTWw/s640/blogger-image-1124206843.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Early morning prayers that we're observing at present are augmented because of the summer retreat that the monastery is in, so the monks add a special introduction to the puja, honouring Śākyamuni Buddha and the Perfection of Wisdom sutras with prayer and multiple prostrations. Tea is then served and swifty followed by the standard puja, involving quite a lot of rhythmic chanting, with drums, oboes, conch and horns interspersed, all in praise of the founder of the Nyingma-pa sect, Padmasambhava. Occasionally, the monks then retreat into themselves in quietly mumbled private prayer to Śākyamuni and Padmasambhava. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Our classes today covered the Three Jewels, the stages of monkhood and an introduction to Tantra.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">There was quite a lot of downtime today, so plenty of reading in between sessions and we attended our final afternoon puja, a session dedicated to attracting the monastery's Dharma Protectors, including the fierce deity Rahula. It's more repetitive than the morning session, much of the prayer delivered at speed, with the drums and bell setting the tempo.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">The small horns precede the rest of the instruments in this session and there's much throwing of rice or roasted barley grains into the air as an offering to these Dharmapāla.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Finally we were shown up on to the roof of the main temple in order to show us the poor state of repair of the monastery roof. They need to raise INR42 lakh (about £400,000) and requested any donations to be routed through Ecosphere. </span></div>
<div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Our dinner tonight is at the nunnery (home for 35 nuns), their cooking a lot better than the monks get, no doubt because the cooks up there are ladies! And it was, an awesome vegetable soup, </span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">and momos filled with peas and veg. Delicious. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Day 13</span></div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Today we leave the monastery, but 4 o'clock prayers beckon first, then breakfast, and farewell meetings with one of the teachers, and our main teacher, the Khempo, with whom we individually 'gave back' our vows. It was a nice parting. These are genuinely friendly, open and compassionate people, who gave of their time freely to us. Many happy memories of a short stay here will prevail.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJrIWnURDjllCdEdO1QClfVc4iA3hqJBXzs99VDB3RtrKa85NPmXZ5IAAl-YPbS-_MTIy72LOQSThgakYUxAomo-fy50i7Uazxb4XO3Q3HD6fdetWqJMoah7OkjlzDx8Jh3fFAdA/s640/blogger-image--475115269.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJrIWnURDjllCdEdO1QClfVc4iA3hqJBXzs99VDB3RtrKa85NPmXZ5IAAl-YPbS-_MTIy72LOQSThgakYUxAomo-fy50i7Uazxb4XO3Q3HD6fdetWqJMoah7OkjlzDx8Jh3fFAdA/s640/blogger-image--475115269.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">We then walked some 5-6km further west to our retreat for the next two days, Phukchong, a tiny hamlet overlooking the Pin River at an altitude of 3690m. It's a great little guesthouse with nice comfy chairs (the first for days!) and a balcony. We fast after lunch and then tomorrow will be a day of silence, meditation and reflection, very welcome after the routine of the monastery. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqCQYRhdMrqL4ZUk9-9Rm_rDGf1pmN-BMogLFUlB6-0G6oCuVh6uwukuMEyitvpWYdUP-fUvovPG7ld3A2gcR8VowrQggwOcuRP7FYHz0DZw43gBwJJX5bcm3RL5aRImli-M7Evg/s640/blogger-image--1086892019.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqCQYRhdMrqL4ZUk9-9Rm_rDGf1pmN-BMogLFUlB6-0G6oCuVh6uwukuMEyitvpWYdUP-fUvovPG7ld3A2gcR8VowrQggwOcuRP7FYHz0DZw43gBwJJX5bcm3RL5aRImli-M7Evg/s640/blogger-image--1086892019.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDtjhKI0NfagSTNb8nFc3pklwI4DpSYYMIqu6F4QmG74rtf_CofmppIeV_ubzCmG9KeaxmuNRGe0A8dUPLO8_H_iD1Ayt_OhJe9hrSV8UNfLVe8khNfTN6IVX6wHDDA1ZRzNlZRw/s640/blogger-image-170390202.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDtjhKI0NfagSTNb8nFc3pklwI4DpSYYMIqu6F4QmG74rtf_CofmppIeV_ubzCmG9KeaxmuNRGe0A8dUPLO8_H_iD1Ayt_OhJe9hrSV8UNfLVe8khNfTN6IVX6wHDDA1ZRzNlZRw/s640/blogger-image-170390202.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">I took myself off for a walk and enjoyed the complete isolation of this setting, watching cows and sheep negotiate precipitous slopes far too steep for their hapless herdsman to follow them on. I got caught in a brief shower that passed through the valley, the reward being an enduring low but intense rainbow that ponderously progressed up the slopes of the valley below, refracting the late afternoon sun. It was good, as Wordsworth once said, to 'stand and stare.'</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">A lazy day for us all, and a short talk in the evening by Ischita, the founder of Ecosphere, on the principles and methods of fasting and silence.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Day 14</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">I'm writing this as the last orange glow on a nearby summit subsides. It's been a strange day. But quite satisfying. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">The usual banter of our little group suppressed by our commitment to silence has brought with it a mental as well as oral calm. People drifted through the day. Some walked, others sat by the river and contemplated, others napped whilst all of us, at some point, buried ourselves in a book or two. I struggled with Tibetan history of the tenth century and started Louis Fischer's excellent biography of Gandhi. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">We were all fasting until 5 p.m. too. Altitude suppresses hunger, but the mere fact that you had committed to deny yourself any food just makes you pine for it even more. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">So, in silence and with rumbling stomach, I set off to explore the upper Pin valley and find myself a rock upon which to sit and attempt some serious thinking.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLFtFzPOGTv20HdEl-TjCMQHzPuqeB8ZiKDugICQG9zHY5ljEHBffLA4KpBMS1RU8vU-JAwLuWIvQypb_X62F3_zofq58YlV-VZDVPpZ6GMIBcuEDxyhjU1QxRGGQQD4qM4QtVaw/s640/blogger-image--1945896248.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLFtFzPOGTv20HdEl-TjCMQHzPuqeB8ZiKDugICQG9zHY5ljEHBffLA4KpBMS1RU8vU-JAwLuWIvQypb_X62F3_zofq58YlV-VZDVPpZ6GMIBcuEDxyhjU1QxRGGQQD4qM4QtVaw/s640/blogger-image--1945896248.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Good intentions, but as usual, even with a fine view into the higher reaches of the valley, absolute silence all around, and the perfect opportunity for some introspection, I singularly failed to settle the 'monkey mind', random thoughts shattering any hope for meditative equipoise. In fact, I managed to avoid having any profound thoughts whatsoever, either about the recent experience in the monastery, or the life I have temporarily left behind. Sad thoughts of my mum's recent passing came and went, I thought about my close family and resolved to be around a bit more in the future, but there was nothing revelationary or revolutionary to come. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">I suppose the whole interest in spirituality that has pervaded my life over the last few years has still come to naught. But I'm more intent than ever in finishing my planned book on Buddhism in the Himalaya, because it's a rich tradition that's being squeezed to death by the Chinese in Tibet, and so poorly understood in most of the Western world. Far be it for me to claim I'm going to be responsible for another 'transmission' of Buddhism, but it really needs a simpler and better explanation than one finds in most books or on the web at present. And I really will try to be nicer to my wife! Gillian, you should remind me I wrote this from time to time!</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">So, I won't be seeking ordination anytime soon, the interest remaining an intellectual one more than spiritual, a conclusion I've come to before having spent time in an Indian ashram two years ago. But hopefully, maybe I'll just show a little more compassion and selflessness in the future. We'll see!</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">And tonight's glorious full moon bears witness!</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtAJuesIMfa1rmOkIACilCt8ALucuMbQQqMXfX0SQT-sp7GZ4_zim1n5FsW_zMLzSGPOaGd3DL_LPWOmSYH_ort4IzA3tP9DPR3Ya0sJ5dz1JHN2_coYSniXIZQrDADwyUb0eJyA/s640/blogger-image-1060745399.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtAJuesIMfa1rmOkIACilCt8ALucuMbQQqMXfX0SQT-sp7GZ4_zim1n5FsW_zMLzSGPOaGd3DL_LPWOmSYH_ort4IzA3tP9DPR3Ya0sJ5dz1JHN2_coYSniXIZQrDADwyUb0eJyA/s640/blogger-image-1060745399.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Day 15</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Hanging over us over the last week or so has been the challenge of getting out of the Pin Valley. The huge landslide, which has caused considerable difficulties for the valley's farmers getting their pea crop to market, had slipped a total of three times over the last week, washing away any repairs that had been attempted, and forcing a tricky walk and a basket transfer over the river to get around it. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Our guide thought we might just get through today, but the roughly hewn new road was deemed too dangerous, so we had to make a steep climb up a loose zigzag path (about 130m of ascent), then take a vertiginous route through some crags before descending to a higher part of the subsidiary river from which the landslide emanated. Here were took a metal basket ride across a steel cable before descending to fresh vehicles waiting for us in the main valley on the other side of the landslide. Good fun.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMcQOqM0pbb0APiNyqenhY0eqZ_Nb_0vwWgQAFzKJjTcM8fjw-Q7533AAZxCLCCIZJ6dwXgAQgxQyeSJ2prtUOvpzCD4BTSxRLR2qygHAhGfRBQ6lIHjQaTL5Gm_Aa3hR8W3yDKQ/s640/blogger-image--2026492140.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMcQOqM0pbb0APiNyqenhY0eqZ_Nb_0vwWgQAFzKJjTcM8fjw-Q7533AAZxCLCCIZJ6dwXgAQgxQyeSJ2prtUOvpzCD4BTSxRLR2qygHAhGfRBQ6lIHjQaTL5Gm_Aa3hR8W3yDKQ/s640/blogger-image--2026492140.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj33-82qSxb4IHZDyG66roFPSCFyS12lFYq-I01IVogc4gbXU6xc18UyA81jrq7dGEzoaIHeSfJjXMypr4Z9HTl70mDIqV5MJvlRJ-XFtvWDqh6MDshCAiuc-qG8c3pQqM0hYZ60A/s640/blogger-image--2046332025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj33-82qSxb4IHZDyG66roFPSCFyS12lFYq-I01IVogc4gbXU6xc18UyA81jrq7dGEzoaIHeSfJjXMypr4Z9HTl70mDIqV5MJvlRJ-XFtvWDqh6MDshCAiuc-qG8c3pQqM0hYZ60A/s640/blogger-image--2046332025.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSf0CL98vP-OvNtf9ROyFe4p3j97o5xw08GBb1qUk9K_qMYoUU0lpEg1djk9PSwncoO26hslR9YD4_S3yibBJ0WNp-vUm1SpHhGjSbd-F2GuDaH1FVBgPQLrI_P_9SP6T32R29uA/s640/blogger-image--221080902.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSf0CL98vP-OvNtf9ROyFe4p3j97o5xw08GBb1qUk9K_qMYoUU0lpEg1djk9PSwncoO26hslR9YD4_S3yibBJ0WNp-vUm1SpHhGjSbd-F2GuDaH1FVBgPQLrI_P_9SP6T32R29uA/s640/blogger-image--221080902.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5YtB6f2GYBUMMIwGdW2h12LCyGfLv5igBqAJV0Bf9uNWXFrscNbPezYseq5HRtNknUL3UDBvJ8_huYEd2J-Qz8alRu3bHzZv8rzo5JhDcFYifgWR5gxpjmk8EYn8ZsnjL3cR-iw/s640/blogger-image--1739206864.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5YtB6f2GYBUMMIwGdW2h12LCyGfLv5igBqAJV0Bf9uNWXFrscNbPezYseq5HRtNknUL3UDBvJ8_huYEd2J-Qz8alRu3bHzZv8rzo5JhDcFYifgWR5gxpjmk8EYn8ZsnjL3cR-iw/s640/blogger-image--1739206864.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyCLWNbcvWhmXKY50rMbixMrHsGU5Vu6lpR5nI_qPp8P3xin4lWHTMHKjN6F9mFJckVncQ8C_GEKxBDcwJwN-fUFMwmlc5gvE_aGuzRNid4CsgRGUhOBNtq7MnydGtk49BRZvN1g/s640/blogger-image-217632637.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyCLWNbcvWhmXKY50rMbixMrHsGU5Vu6lpR5nI_qPp8P3xin4lWHTMHKjN6F9mFJckVncQ8C_GEKxBDcwJwN-fUFMwmlc5gvE_aGuzRNid4CsgRGUhOBNtq7MnydGtk49BRZvN1g/s640/blogger-image-217632637.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3LaRZQnOifAjCPKTRBJY2eb7EnxIJ1hqLHDwaQvn3MfROQ_7VyDRSrvlWIDTVRN63zdKB0Ruaod1xDQt-Itl31wqBSpwLdNEB_9OxNJGNSytXfwtU8nhkBjgtZIvXWFwpx36UaA/s640/blogger-image--942697085.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3LaRZQnOifAjCPKTRBJY2eb7EnxIJ1hqLHDwaQvn3MfROQ_7VyDRSrvlWIDTVRN63zdKB0Ruaod1xDQt-Itl31wqBSpwLdNEB_9OxNJGNSytXfwtU8nhkBjgtZIvXWFwpx36UaA/s640/blogger-image--942697085.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicuQK00ranqE8xiIy0OBNQam9A_gPdHel6gx9A9sBZQtPs2A-W5UJPEhrVwKZnvctF0mMZ6Cz3CqllvAXTbMHtqzqOf1u5NMCGaQu6PDwVL4986jpRdHMW73Xowd1eLuf_Nto2iw/s640/blogger-image-285339858.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicuQK00ranqE8xiIy0OBNQam9A_gPdHel6gx9A9sBZQtPs2A-W5UJPEhrVwKZnvctF0mMZ6Cz3CqllvAXTbMHtqzqOf1u5NMCGaQu6PDwVL4986jpRdHMW73Xowd1eLuf_Nto2iw/s640/blogger-image-285339858.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Incidentally, the successive landslides have now formed a sufficient barrier to dam up a lake above it. No doubt there'll be more problems if the dam is breached. Life in these parts is really on the edge of existence. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">We re-entered the Spiti Valley, and after a few kilometres turned off for our next objective, a viewpoint at 4973m known as Balangri. After many switchbacks on a relatively good surface, we parked up just below a pass marked with a brilliant white stupa and prayer flags, and set off for our walk, a climb of about 250m on a good path. Of course, at this altitude the air pressure is only about 60% of that at sea level, and despite an easy gradient it was moderately hard work, but what a prize! A 360 degree view, mountains of between 5000-7000m all around us, distant glaciers and snow capped peaks in abundance, and an awesome drop to the Spiti and Lingti valleys below us, all from our vantage point on a narrow rocky peak marked by a chorten and prayer flags. Awesome.</span></div>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYSMQa_zR8h2tSwqrH9_ZLGtWZsABa2Z62UL0iaohq2ueKu7YB0TdfzvxHyiJCIhIiTqhJ2T2NMVI9-JVUJ8cEGP1JbD1nPo7n20tHE_Go4ewXxl1eNmW5lNyZWbasegePQCo0qg/s640/blogger-image--1941933690.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYSMQa_zR8h2tSwqrH9_ZLGtWZsABa2Z62UL0iaohq2ueKu7YB0TdfzvxHyiJCIhIiTqhJ2T2NMVI9-JVUJ8cEGP1JbD1nPo7n20tHE_Go4ewXxl1eNmW5lNyZWbasegePQCo0qg/s640/blogger-image--1941933690.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNO4iZJfNjXKSDmHdzagFlUCEwh511C2hKzSPrNIKGRePzWAEc25c1dkcN02a7rSzMkTCpqt1Mzb5sZ7Do-EIxGWy7XiECfibixS3-SYPv3hz4-7v8tuOP0n8UyOjK862_4j63iQ/s640/blogger-image--173238522.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNO4iZJfNjXKSDmHdzagFlUCEwh511C2hKzSPrNIKGRePzWAEc25c1dkcN02a7rSzMkTCpqt1Mzb5sZ7Do-EIxGWy7XiECfibixS3-SYPv3hz4-7v8tuOP0n8UyOjK862_4j63iQ/s640/blogger-image--173238522.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV2mkMeKapMBLeytVAt1qBBe6XTke3zcH-vkyFW9Y1bTY3CF-PyOMZyPAeN4VkHKawE4UhVczA5AH-IkVqSqPoTlD12gw62sExchXnJxkVSp78HfN2FrZMzbUJKytMqoiM9CZAVg/s640/blogger-image--469690717.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV2mkMeKapMBLeytVAt1qBBe6XTke3zcH-vkyFW9Y1bTY3CF-PyOMZyPAeN4VkHKawE4UhVczA5AH-IkVqSqPoTlD12gw62sExchXnJxkVSp78HfN2FrZMzbUJKytMqoiM9CZAVg/s640/blogger-image--469690717.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvnsyrqahJA8qiQS1f1yNFnTG52mp71JBWxxdofM1yQQtC44Fq3RCSiC-PRZeb7RZ6pBIGwtB0fpUnk5zhegNj8zoaVTKGSM2EgZTE8pMW3F0NBcUFHu7MuBEKoLjmAqljPFUszQ/s640/blogger-image--1062028266.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvnsyrqahJA8qiQS1f1yNFnTG52mp71JBWxxdofM1yQQtC44Fq3RCSiC-PRZeb7RZ6pBIGwtB0fpUnk5zhegNj8zoaVTKGSM2EgZTE8pMW3F0NBcUFHu7MuBEKoLjmAqljPFUszQ/s640/blogger-image--1062028266.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
An easy descent to our start point and then we ventured on to the remote settlement of Demul, a modest community of Tibetan style houses on a slope above barley and pea fields. Tonight we are in a homestay, and as I write this, a cup of black tea in hand, I can hear all the usual cacophony of a happy household, the pressure cooker hissing away (more dhal!) and a young child playing with mum. The view from the bedroom is awesome and a warm comfy night is anticipated in these basic but homely surroundings. We're sleeping at 4300m tonight.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcMadxYfrepG9l776pd1VmVx38Qv4cVE5bcZrsYCrs07vmI4kYmi7DJi5RJKhPWqw13R8YEaDltnIf3vUNC4NtFpSTk8Yhr2BnD0yXmoDWrwgw3KdAzyv7zx49CC5-yHUjQHHDWg/s640/blogger-image-115430085.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcMadxYfrepG9l776pd1VmVx38Qv4cVE5bcZrsYCrs07vmI4kYmi7DJi5RJKhPWqw13R8YEaDltnIf3vUNC4NtFpSTk8Yhr2BnD0yXmoDWrwgw3KdAzyv7zx49CC5-yHUjQHHDWg/s640/blogger-image-115430085.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">View from our homestay room</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpeEb6RZ7KOZMtYccRV1OrDW-w8_00YhUxD424lS2VfgHahLhzngPJONY0gZrl_2PON8OKEMnPdiImrB7njtvhZxywFm5lGQWlH6UHs4RS6UGehTaXB4INKiTMZqp0Wq24j99v0Q/s640/blogger-image--1594067913.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpeEb6RZ7KOZMtYccRV1OrDW-w8_00YhUxD424lS2VfgHahLhzngPJONY0gZrl_2PON8OKEMnPdiImrB7njtvhZxywFm5lGQWlH6UHs4RS6UGehTaXB4INKiTMZqp0Wq24j99v0Q/s640/blogger-image--1594067913.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dinner with the family!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
Day 16</div>
<div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Not a bad night, no dogs whatsoever in the village, and just a little shuffling from the cows, donkeys and sheep contained in a small pen joined to our home for the night. The thin air was telling however.</div>
<div>
We set off fairly early for the village of Komic, a remote settlement at 4513m, contained in a bowl amidst rolling alpine pasture. </div>
<div>
The road from Demul was amazing, but quite scary in places. I've never passed along a road with such a high risk of significant rockfall. Below a large buttress there were huge boulders on the road, which our driver deftly missed as we progressed up the hill. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWaaxrWCDU6CSaCnOatwFvWrxgPsdB2aKEAKDbnQ7MU3oFYOhZGFxxL9AEx7jVB-qvzSsgidNY2Gn_3vF6c6kQVEW161nY82FmxQMMA2WYe72BBHGrgk-EAw6cocojpX6uk940rQ/s640/blogger-image-1435183395.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWaaxrWCDU6CSaCnOatwFvWrxgPsdB2aKEAKDbnQ7MU3oFYOhZGFxxL9AEx7jVB-qvzSsgidNY2Gn_3vF6c6kQVEW161nY82FmxQMMA2WYe72BBHGrgk-EAw6cocojpX6uk940rQ/s640/blogger-image-1435183395.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div>
There were some diversions from the danger - some golden eagles and a herd of yaks encountered along the way.</div>
<div>
The road improved a little as we approached Komic, and our first objective for the day appeared below us, the Komic Lundup Chemmo, a Sakya-pa monastery. There is a new monastery, freshly repainted for a recent visit by the head of the Sakya-pas, Sakya Trizin. This was deserted as all the monks were away at another monastery in Kaza. We then went into the adjacent original monastery, a tiny chapel, 900 years old, featuring the original painted frescoes. A lone monk was chanting, beating a drum and occasionally blowing on a horn. This was a weird temple, apparently honouring Mahakala, a wrathful deity, and the atmosphere was oppressive for some of our group. This wasn't helped by a stuffed snow leopard facing you as you entered the front door, adjacent to a sign stating 'Women Not Allowed', and an inner door featuring an image of an upside down disembowelled human (apparently a warning to those who are unkind to the elderly). Very odd indeed.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyI9XmQn8aWRlOsU-WRocSRwFg567YBKg2saczd9fT_yJrOo6esXUqv_gIKnan0yuUFItBg3zpycP1KCkGCV3mUMBQpZG4taajUVNQADvUfYvCbTqjsu69pfLt32IqRqnpFNCk_g/s640/blogger-image-317558663.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyI9XmQn8aWRlOsU-WRocSRwFg567YBKg2saczd9fT_yJrOo6esXUqv_gIKnan0yuUFItBg3zpycP1KCkGCV3mUMBQpZG4taajUVNQADvUfYvCbTqjsu69pfLt32IqRqnpFNCk_g/s640/blogger-image-317558663.jpg" /></a></div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNN4nU18Pwd2byqbLrJmOcu2CP_cMoxcesuxRsxF8Nk76M_11P3LVbLZBtdYqfpcxfVe3HYF4pcbAcQZZLCTnsnnyJPZwEuB9HrvI5eLIPGCf13IfgVjDevvE4LKnRYhzoXN6q_Q/s640/blogger-image-238734123.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNN4nU18Pwd2byqbLrJmOcu2CP_cMoxcesuxRsxF8Nk76M_11P3LVbLZBtdYqfpcxfVe3HYF4pcbAcQZZLCTnsnnyJPZwEuB9HrvI5eLIPGCf13IfgVjDevvE4LKnRYhzoXN6q_Q/s640/blogger-image-238734123.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div>
In full view of the highest mountain in this region, a pyramidal snow domed peak called Chho-chho (6330m), we moved on to the village of Langza (translated this means 'mud', after the local clay used for pottery). The village is overlooked by a large Buddha statue (apparently built to ward off evil spirits which had been affecting the health of the children in this tiny hamlet). We had our lunch served from tiffanies filled earlier, and taken in a house in the village, before travelling a startlingly steep and exposed series of switchbacks to Kaza.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrh435qpcPP9h3c1laOlW53-YFomxaV9FeyJ_rN5J2pY_GLyLVYELpnfCtwHSzZeE9lEDPvQv82D08UpItZ4M0bMSrGa_AOwFQM7zCqLroOSrzF0w5SN_WjCcjhREql5PvMSGaaw/s640/blogger-image--1221909669.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrh435qpcPP9h3c1laOlW53-YFomxaV9FeyJ_rN5J2pY_GLyLVYELpnfCtwHSzZeE9lEDPvQv82D08UpItZ4M0bMSrGa_AOwFQM7zCqLroOSrzF0w5SN_WjCcjhREql5PvMSGaaw/s640/blogger-image--1221909669.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-CAosYmux_FhJrpgkmS4J0n32kPD1mbtvw3cwT0VxwOy80yUR3cqTrgMXviJbFJTxvjPiVL6cZD_n8l_JlqnuAhyJwbs-yCCwAxk4RaCE3SJYZdSrDUxEaUHJMnbIpJGHIuuFlg/s640/blogger-image-1023452751.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-CAosYmux_FhJrpgkmS4J0n32kPD1mbtvw3cwT0VxwOy80yUR3cqTrgMXviJbFJTxvjPiVL6cZD_n8l_JlqnuAhyJwbs-yCCwAxk4RaCE3SJYZdSrDUxEaUHJMnbIpJGHIuuFlg/s640/blogger-image-1023452751.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div>
An afternoon of warm showers, catching up on email, and enjoying chocolate croissants and coffee at the German Bakery in the town. And lemon pancakes for dinner later. Bliss. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju0OFYD5tD4tjLT5vCay9nIYqk5NeK2s_BLvCmrSY4s_tgZPjowO7-KIn2K5Lqk-MZjjWQii_GHhJElV2A9a4fXEtYWfzuUfntZrZ64rHf49VlsCEdBGlUHwwZuMRBVdkAY1tDoA/s640/blogger-image-658060409.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju0OFYD5tD4tjLT5vCay9nIYqk5NeK2s_BLvCmrSY4s_tgZPjowO7-KIn2K5Lqk-MZjjWQii_GHhJElV2A9a4fXEtYWfzuUfntZrZ64rHf49VlsCEdBGlUHwwZuMRBVdkAY1tDoA/s640/blogger-image-658060409.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Dinner in Kaza. Note the serviette being used as a lampshade!</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
Day 17</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Another bright sunny day emerged and we had the privilege of meeting the King of Spiti (called 'Nono'), a very personable and knowledgable chap, who took us through the transmission of Buddhism into this region and explored some current socio-cultural aspects with us. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Lunchtime saw us visiting the famous Kee monastery, a large Geluk-pa monastery prominently situated on top of a hill overlooking the Spiti valley at 4166m, about half an hour west of Kaza. The main dukhang is a relatively recent addition, but upstairs rooms, one exclusively for the Dalai Lama on his visits, and another small chapel dedicated to the founder of the sect, Tsongkhapa, are said to be much older and were very atmospheric. There were great views of the valley and the surrounding mountains from the rooftop. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFn0euaqLuMFOuBtmEEGISVqimDyfp1qj3-9YxZh1T0g7yI0npoXQOCKo1Vr9DDeztRavefMLNs7PWLpObvnKWFxf09XA8Uk0cp5Dk6woWVW8tH32sUoIxPqBqXWHNCUF6VKdw5Q/s640/blogger-image-1125485802.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFn0euaqLuMFOuBtmEEGISVqimDyfp1qj3-9YxZh1T0g7yI0npoXQOCKo1Vr9DDeztRavefMLNs7PWLpObvnKWFxf09XA8Uk0cp5Dk6woWVW8tH32sUoIxPqBqXWHNCUF6VKdw5Q/s640/blogger-image-1125485802.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIgIIzQR4hPuC_b641CBghmldUDj7tkL1QVUhRT14h_9cl2pp7VHMtS9qWGoK2C_8w0nCiSRhyphenhyphenMg2bvbXo3Hstozjmf3JrR5nq0THSSGy1_pkd5Uao0Mo1fcIrA_rzld-Dp3h62A/s640/blogger-image-1230505442.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIgIIzQR4hPuC_b641CBghmldUDj7tkL1QVUhRT14h_9cl2pp7VHMtS9qWGoK2C_8w0nCiSRhyphenhyphenMg2bvbXo3Hstozjmf3JrR5nq0THSSGy1_pkd5Uao0Mo1fcIrA_rzld-Dp3h62A/s640/blogger-image-1230505442.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJbf-7v7kVVtdKgRZkOSolMR5VKg00qud5leppqq_DwdjpPZ0xoZ-O2rkUK45NkzNgx03E5LAyErUL0rzah6J0gyJ8Nu5ZhphfDBveo43j3-6urbF_UE-46f-eei3MgFaXfj5msg/s640/blogger-image-1155897575.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJbf-7v7kVVtdKgRZkOSolMR5VKg00qud5leppqq_DwdjpPZ0xoZ-O2rkUK45NkzNgx03E5LAyErUL0rzah6J0gyJ8Nu5ZhphfDBveo43j3-6urbF_UE-46f-eei3MgFaXfj5msg/s640/blogger-image-1155897575.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">On our way back we stopped at the very impressive new Sakya Kaza Moanastery, beautifully decorated both inside and out. Apparently, the monks here knocked down a perfectly good 300 year old temple to build a brand new one in readiness for a visit by the Dalai Lama. Apparently, he was unimpressed with the gesture seeing it as a waste of resources, and not something he would have expected or wanted. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBmgs3uqnoUCx3-LxlMLzF8RNbzPmbAwOyvW95Qty02MtH71UhUG0Xj2VaGnEq9jIVP-hNz4v4UbjwvjtGiuhFZTclk2DxgFQxzs_r5lSvv7QEvfdFI1pt0q4REmxQMoNMBE4r5Q/s640/blogger-image-1759697984.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBmgs3uqnoUCx3-LxlMLzF8RNbzPmbAwOyvW95Qty02MtH71UhUG0Xj2VaGnEq9jIVP-hNz4v4UbjwvjtGiuhFZTclk2DxgFQxzs_r5lSvv7QEvfdFI1pt0q4REmxQMoNMBE4r5Q/s640/blogger-image-1759697984.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Then back into Kaza to debrief the Ecosphere team, and an early dinner as we depart at 0400 for Manali tomorrow. Fingers crossed for no landslides and no broken down vehicles blocking our way on the narrower sections!</span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Day 18</span></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">
<br /></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">
A good drive, albeit in rain before it got light, and we had got over the Kunzum Pass in about three hours. There's obviously been a fair bit of rain in these parts since we last passed this way, and the very bouldery upper reaches of the Chandra valley were made more difficult with the need to cross various waterfalls that were now crossing our path. As usual, our drivers coped well and we felt we were in very good hands. </div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD1Y38aJfMy91ZknJ6fJR5Mwe4w3hsFykmiQWzeT7KGcggow_rpNOqdWjCtpQPP1_Ctgr1Mj6ppi-A0MWWn40j6kqq2rNuH-86yWMmL2WUHYyacWtqoMLcVHRqj5m5v1CwFPfrTw/s640/blogger-image-760916249.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD1Y38aJfMy91ZknJ6fJR5Mwe4w3hsFykmiQWzeT7KGcggow_rpNOqdWjCtpQPP1_Ctgr1Mj6ppi-A0MWWn40j6kqq2rNuH-86yWMmL2WUHYyacWtqoMLcVHRqj5m5v1CwFPfrTw/s640/blogger-image-760916249.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">
After a quick lunch at the turn off to Ladakh (480km to the north), we started up the Rohtang Pass, much busier in the middle part of the day, and both sides subject to major resurfacing and widening schemes, so there were a few hold ups, but even with these we descended the verdant south side of the pass and managed to get into Manali for 1500, a very brisk journey by standards, just 11 hours including two stops. Incidentally, road building in India remains a very manual process, many men and women smashing large rocks with sledgehammers to create smaller rocks as road foundation. Our vehicles disturbed a large flock of vultures as we left the pass.</div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">
Back in the same hotel again, the first hot shower for ages and wifi! Happy days.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div>
Day 19</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
We left Manali today, bearing south along the valley of the Beas river, the road running parallel to it for much of the way, through Kullu and down into the Mandi district. The river gathers pace, crashing over boulders in a tumultuous rush, before finally becalming ahead of a large hydro-electric dam. </div>
<div>
En route, we're back into the tumult of everyday India. Car and lorry horns honking, cows meandering in the middle of the road, sleeping dogs to be avoided, a child picking nits out of her sister's hair by the roadside, apple markets overflowing with activity, and the relentless throb of human activity and endeavour. </div>
<div>
The landscape is now green, steep forested slopes eventually giving way to a gorge below the dam, but as we gain height after a lunch stop we're into the hill country, much favoured by British Colonialists as a summer retreat from the heat of the Indian plains to the south. We gain height again, settling at our final destination at 1600m, half the altitude we've become accustomed to over the last fortnight. But the monsoon is still with us, a heavy shower punctuating our progress and humid dark skies hanging over us. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6qX3TdzdKGfvvBXSBhEP8IfIZHoCOTXcakDVV12enacBeLaOxGq9Hu1RrNs3Phhy6VkoVO8JEWif7FveMVpkI4AlLVX9i3td5aoIjs2RR68XQAv1i5Cm2rRzVqGWAjLrxoh2ynw/s640/blogger-image--203993013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6qX3TdzdKGfvvBXSBhEP8IfIZHoCOTXcakDVV12enacBeLaOxGq9Hu1RrNs3Phhy6VkoVO8JEWif7FveMVpkI4AlLVX9i3td5aoIjs2RR68XQAv1i5Cm2rRzVqGWAjLrxoh2ynw/s640/blogger-image--203993013.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Our stopover today is the <a href="http://www.deerpark.in/" target="_blank">Deer Park Institute</a> in Bir, about 3 hours east of Dharamsala, the home of the Tibetan Government in Exile and of the Dalai Lama. It's a Buddhist educational institution, established by Dzongsar Khyentse Rinpoche to emulate the historic Nālandā University, complete with a small temple, classrooms, and basic but comfortable accommodation. A slow end to the day, welcome after almost seven hours of travelling.</div>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">
Day 20</div>
</div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
We didn't have too much time at the Deer Park Institute but we managed a quick tour of the three levels of the temple, and had an hour's teaching on the Four Seals, the four fundamental bases of the Buddha Dharma: impermanence, emptiness, samsara/dependent origination, and Enlightenment. An excellent teacher made it all sound very simple.</div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgARiKNYe939bjmHBtEVGhYXHT7RhV8R0ljbL8u2ey95NJxNF7peWbmssZhGSk8wk42YbC-dOsxODqUEmmBpzGhHxJe-WMeFhH_PY5fX84z1jLRhO8Z9GeWwEKmitKSm0WYzZgLIA/s640/blogger-image-1521053037.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgARiKNYe939bjmHBtEVGhYXHT7RhV8R0ljbL8u2ey95NJxNF7peWbmssZhGSk8wk42YbC-dOsxODqUEmmBpzGhHxJe-WMeFhH_PY5fX84z1jLRhO8Z9GeWwEKmitKSm0WYzZgLIA/s640/blogger-image-1521053037.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Deer Park Institute</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Then into the cars again, for a 55km journey to Dharamsala and nearby McLeod Ganj, 10km further on and 300m higher. It took some two and a half hours, the tarmac road weaving its way across forested ridges, around interlocking spurs and through tea plantations. Nice scenery, overwhelmingly green, but oppressively humid at this time of the year.</div>
</div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0-j9QmQSA2qLinTptb0_5HPSr2fGsVP-GSPFhySdcUa-IUO7TuKj8oVsEUSkz2W5NM6jcSURELB6z9hiiTW33-j3Q8FOxAF6_Jp0qA28dYd5IGotZFcTW8An5m9ANpvuIV8eiIw/s640/blogger-image--1648413529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0-j9QmQSA2qLinTptb0_5HPSr2fGsVP-GSPFhySdcUa-IUO7TuKj8oVsEUSkz2W5NM6jcSURELB6z9hiiTW33-j3Q8FOxAF6_Jp0qA28dYd5IGotZFcTW8An5m9ANpvuIV8eiIw/s640/blogger-image--1648413529.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
Dharamsala looked like a bit of a dump, and we continued up the hill, through a major military base, and finally reached the very Tibetan McLeod Ganj and our delightful hotel, Chonor House, high above the town (we're now at 1900m) and with good views of the Dalai Lama's temple where we'll be going tomorrow to listen to the last day of his teachings on Tsongkhapa's <i>Three Principle Aspects of the Path.</i></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<i><br /></i></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWIugPiwbuMCGZ-uHfsWNl1-hZTkwy52NOLbqojDfOytkZcWiAGT_Cgkw_9pQevEAkvy6MsRw6DQs6Tx_Dxco0qdEms8d-1RfechP4rEzirAXc5Kg3kNYedhDs9mvqwFK1dsM-lw/s640/blogger-image--1079926671.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWIugPiwbuMCGZ-uHfsWNl1-hZTkwy52NOLbqojDfOytkZcWiAGT_Cgkw_9pQevEAkvy6MsRw6DQs6Tx_Dxco0qdEms8d-1RfechP4rEzirAXc5Kg3kNYedhDs9mvqwFK1dsM-lw/s640/blogger-image--1079926671.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">The Dalai Lama's huge teaching temple high in the hills above Dharamsala, seen from Chonor House</span></div>
</div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The town is quite touristy, backpackers and 'seekers' mingling with the many monks and nuns in the town, and the local Tibetan and Indian population selling the usual array of Tibetan and Buddhist trinkets. </div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
We went to the Tibetan Office to get permits to enter tomorrow's teaching, new security in place following a recent bombing at Bodh Gaya. I went around the Thekchen Choling temple during the afternoon. It's huge and very utilitarian, the assembly hall covered in rugs and light mattresses owned by monks, nuns and pilgrims where, presumably, they'll sleep tonight, <span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">then sit and listen to the teachings tomorrow.</span></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
The hotel is excellent, and food very good. A comfortable couple of nights ahead.</div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
Day 21</div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
We left the hotel early for the short walk up into the temple for the Dalai Lama's teaching. It was very crowded but the security fairly perfunctory. The various sitting areas around the main temple area where he would be seated filled up fast, and it was interesting to observe the mix of people here. Apart from hundreds of monks and nuns, the devout from Korea (who had requested this particular teaching) and ageing Tibetan refugees, I summarised up the rest as either pious, pretentious, just curious, or genuinely there for the lesson. And it never ceases to amaze me how some people retain their basic selfishness, even in a Buddhist environment, one group hogging the front row of the English speaking session, standing up to see the Dalai Lama as soon as he entered the hall to the disadvantage of everyone behind. Very un-Buddhist!</div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
Before His Holiness arrived, the sense of anticipation was palpable. I got the usual goosebumps. When he did enter the temple, he did so with his usual humour and humility. A great man, as history will show. He's showing signs of age now, not surprising at the age of 78, with slower gait and a slight stoop, and currently the security around him was quite tight, one or two chaps toting machine guns. But he'd wander off, making their job just a bit more challenging: clearly fearless and keen to acknowledge the faithful. </div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSWkazrUTRA6Yo36KtcX26-P6crrT_jFgJtFnJ0vXAw7EY3f0E3J1yOryNJ9WpSUlUgmLQHuVEqvYLRjubxg4uHBLVd0RqMsyitiJ8d3EKybp7HPV8YTjFjVWGnHSH0KvyJK7pRg/s640/blogger-image--1386947951.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSWkazrUTRA6Yo36KtcX26-P6crrT_jFgJtFnJ0vXAw7EY3f0E3J1yOryNJ9WpSUlUgmLQHuVEqvYLRjubxg4uHBLVd0RqMsyitiJ8d3EKybp7HPV8YTjFjVWGnHSH0KvyJK7pRg/s640/blogger-image--1386947951.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">We were not in this group of Westerners greeting His Holiness: we were behind him but did get a smile as he passed! </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">[Picture courtesy of Tenzin Choejor/OHHDL via Facebook]</span></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
I hadn't expected to sit through much of the teaching. I find the long discourse in Tibetan followed by the English translation too disjointed for me, and simultaneous Korean translation via an adjacent speaker system was cacaphonic. A salty tea and some bread was served to all present, but shortly after this I took my leave. Great to have seen him again, and grateful for the opportunity, but I'll get back to my books for the wisdom just now.</div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Wandered up and down the streets of McLeod Ganj (the monks cannot pronounce this, so is often called 'Mellow Ganj'), bought some mara beads (made from the seeds of the rudraksha tree which are considered sacred by Saivas, devotees of Siva),</span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"> and a meditation cushion. </span></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
Our afternoon visit, about an hour away, is to the Norbulingka Institute www.norbulingka.org, a centre dedicated to the preservation of traditional Tibetan arts (thangka painting, sculpture, woodworking, etc), research, and provision of employment for the displaced Tibetans. Our hotel, Chonor House, is affiliated to the Institute. </div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfoX7LSxcXTEEBk9WX6kT1dXGf04kiHjG8rC5OF6BGIGXmhdvPdHZwdWgmJegA5y4bNd782g1kHHJi0hv8BWuAvOu-sX8at1qGojWcNQfiTSc9FcEzilZ40-W2tZI0Z9tvr9FcFw/s640/blogger-image--1849593581.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfoX7LSxcXTEEBk9WX6kT1dXGf04kiHjG8rC5OF6BGIGXmhdvPdHZwdWgmJegA5y4bNd782g1kHHJi0hv8BWuAvOu-sX8at1qGojWcNQfiTSc9FcEzilZ40-W2tZI0Z9tvr9FcFw/s640/blogger-image--1849593581.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Norbulingka Institute</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyXuFhSHa3_n2zKWwAUpNObSjehV5UKnubnGAQKcqZFfNUjp2xc3RhykxiZwFtwchK7OzUAlk0KQEIIrVVzhQxbZ1NKs_z-ysC4Byb1gwk_9IPGD6epdRpgk6VRNKulFHg0J7LYg/s640/blogger-image--1842028574.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyXuFhSHa3_n2zKWwAUpNObSjehV5UKnubnGAQKcqZFfNUjp2xc3RhykxiZwFtwchK7OzUAlk0KQEIIrVVzhQxbZ1NKs_z-ysC4Byb1gwk_9IPGD6epdRpgk6VRNKulFHg0J7LYg/s640/blogger-image--1842028574.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYdy0czJ3c_o2DT669AV8T6bmLwaNFmHBfO5UhewUisXmFlsnrX7nrYG_Uy-nCOSTt6EyigidJuAfUnxN81aPI2gRGFcH6yJ4Um6xOycF2Zqp0VoCxFPoaOsOlhv7x64rQ5dO45Q/s640/blogger-image--560468701.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYdy0czJ3c_o2DT669AV8T6bmLwaNFmHBfO5UhewUisXmFlsnrX7nrYG_Uy-nCOSTt6EyigidJuAfUnxN81aPI2gRGFcH6yJ4Um6xOycF2Zqp0VoCxFPoaOsOlhv7x64rQ5dO45Q/s640/blogger-image--560468701.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw_KTb-ixryemoweZYINpnxcSUKP8QHIkZxocL8bpKApps1UEsVjIgo-hpQtkhj_Nx_eYZRcqL84HB5IFKHbP1Ma0uf4Nif_52qygHVn8A3VkXj40PHz09Rgyk2gBPenotbh0DUg/s640/blogger-image--265117774.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw_KTb-ixryemoweZYINpnxcSUKP8QHIkZxocL8bpKApps1UEsVjIgo-hpQtkhj_Nx_eYZRcqL84HB5IFKHbP1Ma0uf4Nif_52qygHVn8A3VkXj40PHz09Rgyk2gBPenotbh0DUg/s640/blogger-image--265117774.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
It's <span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">a nice spot, set in beautiful gardens funded by Japanese patrons, and there are workshops where students are taught the art of thangka painting and the creation of intricate wooden boxes. A temple sits at the far end, complete with a giant appliqué thangka, and finally there's a rather fine shop selling high quality examples of Buddhist art. I could have spent a fortune here, but self control prevailed...perhaps I'm now practicing the Buddhist concept of non-attachment!</span></div>
</div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
Returning to McLeod Ganj by a very steep shortcut, a monsoonal storm hit us, the roads quickly running with torrents of water. </div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFICnj4lWr0yeMidJqBhESCDCDR0wjdtdjhs-v-UqeH5koYC4QfHq8BlPGWS7WyUsqjaCvlEWDeiDuqLylwt2-YdvOyCZ0fFCxUHinYcm_uGGGQ-GnIkB6F719Gm1QNyHFJVGb-w/s640/blogger-image--1852016607.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFICnj4lWr0yeMidJqBhESCDCDR0wjdtdjhs-v-UqeH5koYC4QfHq8BlPGWS7WyUsqjaCvlEWDeiDuqLylwt2-YdvOyCZ0fFCxUHinYcm_uGGGQ-GnIkB6F719Gm1QNyHFJVGb-w/s640/blogger-image--1852016607.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dharamsala</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgERT__aOXV1mk14sqq5B2cu4dOT5g9KBilP5-QCqpjh9nrBkWzHcaB61-xU9pMI_rxtzMzSvUGKZSa1GACf5JDhwcFjljhdrWu1U1LDCcaFGmbMR3DZoXutDI2yjypncksZkW0vA/s640/blogger-image--888791538.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgERT__aOXV1mk14sqq5B2cu4dOT5g9KBilP5-QCqpjh9nrBkWzHcaB61-xU9pMI_rxtzMzSvUGKZSa1GACf5JDhwcFjljhdrWu1U1LDCcaFGmbMR3DZoXutDI2yjypncksZkW0vA/s640/blogger-image--888791538.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Entering McLeod Ganj in a rainstorm</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Day 22</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Today, the long haul from Dharamsala to Delhi, about 12 hours with a couple of short stops. We started at 0415, a huge electrical storm having just finished, taking the local power supply out as we attempted to pack our things. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
We descended the Kangra region through more monsoonal deluges, and on difficult road surfaces in the upper stages of the journey, and as daylight broke through, we reached the more populous areas north of Chandigarbh, which brought the usual congestion, manic driving and constant hooting of horns. What a contrast with Spiti!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
And, so our adventure completes. A parting of ways as the group dispersed to their various destinations in Delhi and beyond, but despite our very different motivations and backgrounds, a common bond set to persist through this most engaging of adventures. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ2smqwnIoL6aZFFxB416QtTuQ1US87n_GP7sofoB9EWxsK6WJHHWc0b2f4EIOBNLPyMWTVUYaZp5Xzn_J84GpeTk4cXXCsSgYWNSrzfFkjAkE6U4Z1oo6Me8msaBgdpHHm0nZfg/s640/blogger-image--87736850.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ2smqwnIoL6aZFFxB416QtTuQ1US87n_GP7sofoB9EWxsK6WJHHWc0b2f4EIOBNLPyMWTVUYaZp5Xzn_J84GpeTk4cXXCsSgYWNSrzfFkjAkE6U4Z1oo6Me8msaBgdpHHm0nZfg/s640/blogger-image--87736850.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Day 23/24</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Stay at the Connaught Hotel, New Delhi. Return to UK on Royal Jordanian Airlines via Amman.</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">* <i>The Indian epic Mahabharata narrates that Pāndavas stayed in Himachal during their exile. In Manali, a strongest person named Hidimba,a brother of Hidimdi, attacked them, and in the ensuing fight, Bhima,the strongest Pandav, killed him. Bhima and Hidimba's sister, Hidimdi, then got married and had a son, Ghatotkacha, (who later proved to be a great warrior in the war against Kauravas). When Bhima and his brothers returned from exile, Hidimdi did not accompany him, but stayed back and did tapasyā (a combination of meditation, prayer, and penance) so as to eventually attain the status of a goddess.</i></span></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9888425.post-78384340323685985552013-07-09T16:54:00.001+00:002013-09-06T07:50:52.064+00:00Madeira - July 2013<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div>
<b>Summary</b></div>
<div>
<b></b><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje9DtCtx2F1CTDYKFtz0stU-r0ahXcgrzwNFI_2LT2OqZSwMEfd4UUKn0OZIXj8bU0h3aIs2DRb2EnbRQshRbn8SBrSnbpcVAwl8gpMasldi1AbReZc8ehPsxYuvBYb7_q_bermA/s640/blogger-image--1657850807.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje9DtCtx2F1CTDYKFtz0stU-r0ahXcgrzwNFI_2LT2OqZSwMEfd4UUKn0OZIXj8bU0h3aIs2DRb2EnbRQshRbn8SBrSnbpcVAwl8gpMasldi1AbReZc8ehPsxYuvBYb7_q_bermA/s640/blogger-image--1657850807.jpg" /></a></b></div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
Madeira is stunning. Ancient vulcanicity has left a verdant landmass gouged with deep valleys and vegetation which grows as though it has been fed on steroids. The topography makes for exposed walking on balcony paths along the coast, and on contouring levadas inland. Views can be compromised by dense vegetation in places, but when there is a view it's magnificent. </div>
<div>
The levadas at higher elevations open up access to the otherwise impregnable central mountains, and those at lower levels bring you closer to the people of Madeira, many of whom continue to farm their terraced fields in the traditional way.</div>
<div>
The climate is fairly constant through the year, a little wetter in the north during the shoulder seasons, but it really is a year round destination. Some walking routes can get busy, but the trick is start early, assuring that you not only have them to yourself, but you'll also avoid the heat as it builds to a crescendo later in the day.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>The Trip</b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
Under four hours flying time to a different world. </div>
<div>
A cloud bank precluded views of the east Atlantic, but on our final approach a rugged volcanic island appeared above the cloud, rather like the 'Lost World' featuring in so many movies. I quite expected to alight into a world of dinosaurs and dragons, but the reality is that this land is just home to millions of tiny, cute lizards, so perhaps my imagination had gone a little too far on this occasion!</div>
<div>
Arriving in Madeira, a Portuguese territory north of the Canaries, it's an interesting landing, our Airbus 319 taking a late northerly turn to position itself for a shortish runway which extends below some steep ground on concrete stilts and needing some sharp braking on landing. Not as thrilling as Lukla or Paro, but up there.</div>
<div>
My transfer quickly took me to my first stop for this trip, the Quinta do Furão, a 4* hotel perched on the cliff edge below the village of Santana. This is a journey that took half an hour, one quarter of the time it would have taken 15 years ago before the country's network of road tunnels were built, some over 3km long.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVqWH4pma8mf1we5ols4dRXnZtFA7_5JuRcQpnK4IQimO6p72FjDKl-7wvMt9N-W3BqlKfFc2j9ZJnDuYy3f1hcq2xKVnIIOrvCqS-H0iXqX5H9KRZZmcAdgN4gNMBGEpcomIwtQ/s640/blogger-image-311942087.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVqWH4pma8mf1we5ols4dRXnZtFA7_5JuRcQpnK4IQimO6p72FjDKl-7wvMt9N-W3BqlKfFc2j9ZJnDuYy3f1hcq2xKVnIIOrvCqS-H0iXqX5H9KRZZmcAdgN4gNMBGEpcomIwtQ/s640/blogger-image-311942087.jpg" /></a></div>
</div>
<div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgvKfknukKCgQGxSvxuxiot3WbkEkjNWK5LAC-OiBP8HycxpBF3lkI7FjAhwueQy0hNygnfYhzUJcbN5xl6HNH4ZbHuwSp0DWM50p-poJ1GIh8BDZqCE1LrwrjOyw-9dESvcC1pw/s640/blogger-image--1937357655.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgvKfknukKCgQGxSvxuxiot3WbkEkjNWK5LAC-OiBP8HycxpBF3lkI7FjAhwueQy0hNygnfYhzUJcbN5xl6HNH4ZbHuwSp0DWM50p-poJ1GIh8BDZqCE1LrwrjOyw-9dESvcC1pw/s640/blogger-image--1937357655.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The landscape is magnificent, deep ravines intersecting rocky peaks of weathered volcanic rock, rich vegetation thriving on the volcanic soils...watered by the complex levada irrigation channels that criss-cross the island. Bamboo, banana, maize, vines, sweet potato, flowering cacti and abundant flowers mark this as a sub-tropical island, with sunny mornings and sea fog a common development as the day progresses. And some flowers bigger that I've seen before, magnificent hydrangea adorning many lanes near the hotel. And a slow pace of life, farmers still tilling and planting the steep slopes by hand, and the remains of the tiny thatched farmhouses seen almost everywhere, some nicely renovated.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlE5J67IYLB9E27487M9Qw1NMmkCnp-hbn9_ylc76tD7CjQ9huiql-CR1QUahNDS6NJaLAYy6NwlIVoXRqc9PXdaKUOmv3OOJbcvcElyiJM_0hia0kvRUJllguOGLg02qlzbqm9w/s640/blogger-image-1663866935.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlE5J67IYLB9E27487M9Qw1NMmkCnp-hbn9_ylc76tD7CjQ9huiql-CR1QUahNDS6NJaLAYy6NwlIVoXRqc9PXdaKUOmv3OOJbcvcElyiJM_0hia0kvRUJllguOGLg02qlzbqm9w/s640/blogger-image-1663866935.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrnqr44mpoqUzDRvrspUufm1gC5pJYhPItk7mTdrcd0UUFSTd6z_iR7dfhXoP4oAa4GVDm_Mg0Ysuhc_TnfzeAxE-CBLDa3CjTqHyIF7YECSEl61JGdABCqrOg7Tje6fMm_ZoI6Q/s640/blogger-image--92191347.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrnqr44mpoqUzDRvrspUufm1gC5pJYhPItk7mTdrcd0UUFSTd6z_iR7dfhXoP4oAa4GVDm_Mg0Ysuhc_TnfzeAxE-CBLDa3CjTqHyIF7YECSEl61JGdABCqrOg7Tje6fMm_ZoI6Q/s640/blogger-image--92191347.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div>
And I mustn't forget Madeira's famous wine, still produced by Blandys, my own favourite the rich and complex Bual, a wonderful pudding wine.</div>
<div>
This next week or so will be a treat.</div>
<div>
My first walk was an 'out and back' walk with a couple of loops, and some 600m of ascent and descent...just enough to get the leg muscles warmed up again. And some verticality too, the narrow clifftop path west from the hotel yielding to a 300m drop on one side. But most paths, including the ups and downs into Calhau and São Jorge, were well graded and constructed in a cobble like fashion, using local basalt. Interesting walking, and kept amused by the endemic lizards (Madeira wall lizard - Lacerta dugesii) scurrying away as I approached. A good start.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht8HMFV-5eXSav61vyR7ON2vwmxHbWkfGuF9i0aFWU4h1S7omEVp3m_x-pUvv5qlwI4jU9W-ogWpcXuTj45tJKysE2q5xdOmKMo98lzIcCAOmNndv8m6aYn40Zga4kRS-qe3Ee5A/s640/blogger-image-1472756641.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht8HMFV-5eXSav61vyR7ON2vwmxHbWkfGuF9i0aFWU4h1S7omEVp3m_x-pUvv5qlwI4jU9W-ogWpcXuTj45tJKysE2q5xdOmKMo98lzIcCAOmNndv8m6aYn40Zga4kRS-qe3Ee5A/s640/blogger-image-1472756641.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
View from the Quinta do Furão </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5w9JlyCtSXf4ib_08rZiDolzFuWu2bMZNl9sUa53KOYpt_5arNg5eR4HRVjTgcjHgIWxuFrJt6pvpgArtAzFGHHRJpYok4FPFpohF8OQab5HyC1BuIGox5PUkYCXKQN5VCu05tA/s640/blogger-image-139078523.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5w9JlyCtSXf4ib_08rZiDolzFuWu2bMZNl9sUa53KOYpt_5arNg5eR4HRVjTgcjHgIWxuFrJt6pvpgArtAzFGHHRJpYok4FPFpohF8OQab5HyC1BuIGox5PUkYCXKQN5VCu05tA/s640/blogger-image-139078523.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Pay attention to your footing!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6dHHUXbi5-aHeJ6eMnBFaGC_mnAudFWjuC87wbX7mr1q7uU5vcShtujhUJqnthTuvnpe8ZLQFFhjuQdU3VqevpwKtx2LUSIIexGywutN-t_gE1IposGcmzDimYeYNyc46Jg5DJA/s640/blogger-image--904961627.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6dHHUXbi5-aHeJ6eMnBFaGC_mnAudFWjuC87wbX7mr1q7uU5vcShtujhUJqnthTuvnpe8ZLQFFhjuQdU3VqevpwKtx2LUSIIexGywutN-t_gE1IposGcmzDimYeYNyc46Jg5DJA/s640/blogger-image--904961627.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Cobbled descent to Calhau</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnDO5dUWxh7qWzeXerOq83CDeQKtw21vOorRrIZ7_bmTfW_CdjHk4fkjXSwa0lQH7v7KZSheUqiK7Samdh6dEk88w_LEGeBhdz1323SiznGoUXIbfNXFL3ImpHAuPzNKaW38cq0A/s640/blogger-image--1341229260.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnDO5dUWxh7qWzeXerOq83CDeQKtw21vOorRrIZ7_bmTfW_CdjHk4fkjXSwa0lQH7v7KZSheUqiK7Samdh6dEk88w_LEGeBhdz1323SiznGoUXIbfNXFL3ImpHAuPzNKaW38cq0A/s640/blogger-image--1341229260.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Not for those with vertigo!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9j8_G_pT8vQo6Jt8x2PDy54FUvUg5jMjkbQXxWUXAdBn1QUZdz7oPLG0TCYq228GAzrN5xYAOoweldBYtgtL_xrKgYLIhdAqtATPexSs2eKXsHl_ty01xjfMsRrYsYhyphenhyphenDpQ569Q/s640/blogger-image--1786451915.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9j8_G_pT8vQo6Jt8x2PDy54FUvUg5jMjkbQXxWUXAdBn1QUZdz7oPLG0TCYq228GAzrN5xYAOoweldBYtgtL_xrKgYLIhdAqtATPexSs2eKXsHl_ty01xjfMsRrYsYhyphenhyphenDpQ569Q/s640/blogger-image--1786451915.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Lizard in Prickly Pear</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
The evening produced some great conditions for photography, with a cloud bank on the Atlantic below the cliff tops. Awesome.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6iTaNznmcQEcOyM7QWNAHOLKoXBjksF_-ugWvbT5zoeoDZD96C4bjkREsN7kpLBVU8H64MVBMKxfSrTUppUdf_5fkTnEsrx7vDLI5fCJaLEGznW2n16riSgySdQWBK7oKUK3d8g/s640/blogger-image-1438998169.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6iTaNznmcQEcOyM7QWNAHOLKoXBjksF_-ugWvbT5zoeoDZD96C4bjkREsN7kpLBVU8H64MVBMKxfSrTUppUdf_5fkTnEsrx7vDLI5fCJaLEGznW2n16riSgySdQWBK7oKUK3d8g/s640/blogger-image-1438998169.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbvdCtFgTqMMXB_IHdfMp0IKO0VcxgMT-qgGKuhzQJaCqHUFUEUX6TivGYGQscxuI4mJscDcuws7WwPXKw-tOpj4qa0bHs2Kg2JlPX3OMU6mlK7OFSvw_I2ocENk45jwy7sNnHYw/s640/blogger-image--1123675804.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbvdCtFgTqMMXB_IHdfMp0IKO0VcxgMT-qgGKuhzQJaCqHUFUEUX6TivGYGQscxuI4mJscDcuws7WwPXKw-tOpj4qa0bHs2Kg2JlPX3OMU6mlK7OFSvw_I2ocENk45jwy7sNnHYw/s640/blogger-image--1123675804.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
The second days' walking was up on to the famous levadas of Madeira. Levadas are water channels built to move water for irrigation from the wetter north and northwest of Madeira to the drier southeast, which is more conducive to habitation and agriculture (such as sugar cane production). Construction was started in the sixteenth century by the Portuguese, although most were constructed in the 1940s.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
It promised to be a hot one today, none of the sea fog that has featured over the last couple of days, but perfectly clear skies and great views to Pico Ruivo, Madeira's highest point at 1862m. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaThAfi4rolii9ENNqHCp3Ji3QjyQ05N9pj0ZvloWJhfYyWLnT32BKFEce_slRUtTfzU2uUEkg7x07bvkBOtchwa1jMhglFfOvsA5fPY9Do7Lqho6aNPrX_aQHatJ0bpQtsqDHvg/s640/blogger-image--819972434.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaThAfi4rolii9ENNqHCp3Ji3QjyQ05N9pj0ZvloWJhfYyWLnT32BKFEce_slRUtTfzU2uUEkg7x07bvkBOtchwa1jMhglFfOvsA5fPY9Do7Lqho6aNPrX_aQHatJ0bpQtsqDHvg/s640/blogger-image--819972434.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
A transfer took me up to the start of the Levada do Caldeirão Verde (one of the oldest on the island, dating to 1796), a delightful clearing featuring large thatched forestry buildings at Parque das Queimadas. The walking is initially on a broad path through beautiful woodland (Laurissilva forest), but you quickly reach the narrower sections of the path, often just the levada wall itself and no more than a metre wide. A steel cable to one side provides the necessary reassurance, but this certainly not a route for walkers with vertigo, as there are huge drops, about 500m, into the ravine of the Ribeira dos Arcos valley. Later, there were equally dramatic views into the Ribeiro Grande and Ribeiro São Jorge valleys.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKMrvb9YJn4V1OQZvDCTEaPAJtc6G7A0PbTwy648bo377TQ_TdIgdRSGCSs3LBjOmUMY2cs0ljMmzh-d3iXlU7V_Fw11ZjR8igsLpWGPO4WT1JzsNQLxEActBeSaI9otpZnZ06QA/s640/blogger-image-1556050733.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKMrvb9YJn4V1OQZvDCTEaPAJtc6G7A0PbTwy648bo377TQ_TdIgdRSGCSs3LBjOmUMY2cs0ljMmzh-d3iXlU7V_Fw11ZjR8igsLpWGPO4WT1JzsNQLxEActBeSaI9otpZnZ06QA/s640/blogger-image-1556050733.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgthEDXtNc59kIJ_B96fRJmGB23aKt8SE8S8piA3_0rl7zQJd2kH8KPdWpbV6VepSewbqwxCX-m-z4tv8FyUFmN0bJA3LNs93JUj7lrIA_RC7x6gzDf9Dk59lqgub8HdKiPP9hWSQ/s640/blogger-image-1930695195.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgthEDXtNc59kIJ_B96fRJmGB23aKt8SE8S8piA3_0rl7zQJd2kH8KPdWpbV6VepSewbqwxCX-m-z4tv8FyUFmN0bJA3LNs93JUj7lrIA_RC7x6gzDf9Dk59lqgub8HdKiPP9hWSQ/s640/blogger-image-1930695195.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPPH-NEqfbw5gmSaJuSHHm5LZoZr817j8kQ7-4Ccwzy0ryNO9nW7eew5hv1nUZCD82-mLQe2w-eGx8YeF5cdopRMHu25sa6ZcZv_nF8Ieccsbv1VEL2qOGKA0kDyTPQNZ784gVoA/s640/blogger-image--538509466.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPPH-NEqfbw5gmSaJuSHHm5LZoZr817j8kQ7-4Ccwzy0ryNO9nW7eew5hv1nUZCD82-mLQe2w-eGx8YeF5cdopRMHu25sa6ZcZv_nF8Ieccsbv1VEL2qOGKA0kDyTPQNZ784gVoA/s640/blogger-image--538509466.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjMPlsSRNSiPIqbLevuJuoNsPOcpo9UulZkljNYaHQ1rX46fhjG1u4bC9BRJTUr24lW231XwrMTuVIIO5AfTIlPHlBsgYL7B8-Z6J-S7ain-8EK-lgFJjcqjUjcMGkgiH7TI5jkA/s640/blogger-image-849652402.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjMPlsSRNSiPIqbLevuJuoNsPOcpo9UulZkljNYaHQ1rX46fhjG1u4bC9BRJTUr24lW231XwrMTuVIIO5AfTIlPHlBsgYL7B8-Z6J-S7ain-8EK-lgFJjcqjUjcMGkgiH7TI5jkA/s640/blogger-image-849652402.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAdyiJJhzojbyUihWyftSwK_RmZjjyXErH8g2IvZkQKBLu8gIMbmPexMhwiPHK_lTIGxmr1Z_filiJnV4gHL_fzHSxaWopzK6PskgNJYPSISZYnyz1T54Hhhx82SLvUCWmu4wosA/s640/blogger-image--1500714222.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAdyiJJhzojbyUihWyftSwK_RmZjjyXErH8g2IvZkQKBLu8gIMbmPexMhwiPHK_lTIGxmr1Z_filiJnV4gHL_fzHSxaWopzK6PskgNJYPSISZYnyz1T54Hhhx82SLvUCWmu4wosA/s640/blogger-image--1500714222.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Nor is this a walk for those with claustrophobia, as it's necessary to pass through a number of tunnels en route, some as long as 200m, with bends and a relatively low roof, although straightforward with a head torch. It's easy walking otherwise, the exposure not overwhelming, and the walk challenging enough to maintain interest throughout. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfdfHEg0NDdc8XDD7jKMAJBYvslkezaR-xfpRBE3HG8jNjldw9XQ6SljTIoWcohB8jK8JOyWOaV_JIr4Vkv2nYNUO0Utq_eDtOvy6TBYtYJURsr5v4Ja1wb8Y5LNfvE3yZivufbA/s640/blogger-image--596840711.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfdfHEg0NDdc8XDD7jKMAJBYvslkezaR-xfpRBE3HG8jNjldw9XQ6SljTIoWcohB8jK8JOyWOaV_JIr4Vkv2nYNUO0Utq_eDtOvy6TBYtYJURsr5v4Ja1wb8Y5LNfvE3yZivufbA/s640/blogger-image--596840711.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVTQk48K9Zzhd2qtE4YBv7MIx94b0FfiVuY1GkGjmsIorBJ4LG4TDocVRRhAsaIhgW25QKiV25Nc4zBrU70_lUOXmwQbXTTBgT9KjDTP-yI_78r2yN6q71ab8xx2mt_hdj8PeAwA/s640/blogger-image--1222407812.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVTQk48K9Zzhd2qtE4YBv7MIx94b0FfiVuY1GkGjmsIorBJ4LG4TDocVRRhAsaIhgW25QKiV25Nc4zBrU70_lUOXmwQbXTTBgT9KjDTP-yI_78r2yN6q71ab8xx2mt_hdj8PeAwA/s640/blogger-image--1222407812.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
The objective today was to reach the Caldeirão Verde waterfall, with a drop of 328m, quietly impressive in its lush green surrounds. The name translates to 'Green Caldera', as the waterfall empties into a large circular amphitheatre adorned with green vegetation. This is one of several caldera on Madeira – circular pits which were the vents from which pyroclastic material was expelled in violent explosive eruptions. When the volcanic activity ceased, circular vents with sheer-sided walls remained to be colonised by vegetation and eroded by water, ice and snow.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWkKPhOotE3W5YKkJVKPAq96Cf-ip-X77FHzUQLFdtes4H3-kV98O1tY6kJtBLFFyrxhJHJG2DwcmVu2PUUA-if6AyjZf0UV5xzbDwswKLRTxW7Pm6kgFP7gpLKA5daFoJYb3KxA/s640/blogger-image-112116688.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWkKPhOotE3W5YKkJVKPAq96Cf-ip-X77FHzUQLFdtes4H3-kV98O1tY6kJtBLFFyrxhJHJG2DwcmVu2PUUA-if6AyjZf0UV5xzbDwswKLRTxW7Pm6kgFP7gpLKA5daFoJYb3KxA/s640/blogger-image-112116688.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Caldeirão Verde waterfall</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4Tj9sExrGOLGM3hAxTY5MtCOULEK33yXqZUu7_QTaRWNa-uqns-p1nbkQf6WQNkewKsAzzJH15IlQzOKNnPnT5WvT3iPJPgm31IlRLc2ND6_IXYjKxfxyjMc3ALIJkkC9NK36Zw/s640/blogger-image-1338496275.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4Tj9sExrGOLGM3hAxTY5MtCOULEK33yXqZUu7_QTaRWNa-uqns-p1nbkQf6WQNkewKsAzzJH15IlQzOKNnPnT5WvT3iPJPgm31IlRLc2ND6_IXYjKxfxyjMc3ALIJkkC9NK36Zw/s640/blogger-image-1338496275.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
The return route took in three of the tunnels again, before venturing off on to some remote forest trails back to the quiet hamlet of Ilha. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidIVbhKF4vwuKZsDVUxvJ4QdVu09AgzfTH7fJEyMGbBSZqqIHRKt-A35_-2km87lvMCBVDfzz34X3RaUoijGgYuTai5G9PUVUzqNEXb5lUk2ndBzveOA5ACS1bzPo3JAoMCsGW-g/s640/blogger-image--1900958770.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidIVbhKF4vwuKZsDVUxvJ4QdVu09AgzfTH7fJEyMGbBSZqqIHRKt-A35_-2km87lvMCBVDfzz34X3RaUoijGgYuTai5G9PUVUzqNEXb5lUk2ndBzveOA5ACS1bzPo3JAoMCsGW-g/s640/blogger-image--1900958770.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGH28XU3lx-Qh7xNBMnE39ni40ub39XQrXRrwOymsXWQwrJLUJGIZh09bD863tOkPB_qmhMx7gFhm3CbCS073Vp9irY6uQmdl_516Ircl6Ctbbsq7FGID3wnM5exwPpy9e4P81ZA/s640/blogger-image--1822987543.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGH28XU3lx-Qh7xNBMnE39ni40ub39XQrXRrwOymsXWQwrJLUJGIZh09bD863tOkPB_qmhMx7gFhm3CbCS073Vp9irY6uQmdl_516Ircl6Ctbbsq7FGID3wnM5exwPpy9e4P81ZA/s640/blogger-image--1822987543.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
This was hard work in places as the rock underfoot is ‘massapez’ – a very hard ‘rock’ comprising a mixture of volcanic ash and sand. It weathers to a reddish sort of clay which when moist – as it usually is in the lush, cloudy laurel forests – is very slippery. A fascinating day out. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Although, once again, I'd travelled with <a href="http://www.headwater.com/" target="_blank">Headwater</a> who suggest walks and fix hotels and transfers along the route, the following day I ventured on to a route that doesn't feature in their itinerary. It's the vertiginous Verada do Larano, starting from Porto Da Cruz and finishing in Ribeiro Seca, just above Machico. </div>
<div>
It's a little used path, but a classic traverse of the cliffs towering above the Atlantic as it crashes into the north east of the island. There are great views along the north coast, and as you descend into Ribeira Seca you get a real feel for rural Madeira. I was able to relax on the final leg of the walk which follows the popular Levada Caniçal, but for much of the route I was forced to concentrate on my footing, grabbing views when I could, as the tiny path, eroded in places, and protected by steel cables on numerous sections demanded my full attention. A slip on this path could have resulted in a fall of some 300m, so walking on my own made me especially cautious (or am I just getting older?!). But very rewarding, and nice to reflect on it over a cold beer at the end of the walk!</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig7XLiEgZtUNAxEv-GdigXsPf37ap6VEsDUZNwq6LaEGg5G2PxTSz1K_PYtplR3yF15PegRwZANI3MB1CrESOOAXgNWOx5CGKVR935PtT1r4TvpmD5COLKu-zVDot5X7B5gytq4A/s640/blogger-image-302305587.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig7XLiEgZtUNAxEv-GdigXsPf37ap6VEsDUZNwq6LaEGg5G2PxTSz1K_PYtplR3yF15PegRwZANI3MB1CrESOOAXgNWOx5CGKVR935PtT1r4TvpmD5COLKu-zVDot5X7B5gytq4A/s640/blogger-image-302305587.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Larano </div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizyoiqByQEtYsJZ4i3jjZPF2cPK_XRgkwhB3q7cqVlLtmOaLwd2avwyrpvjZ2EeErNY0eTKMonmZrtPL-AEoqatID56B6CB_0WLH2lVuaIl1V37bgWQFwuKeheZKWW2mFTSattXw/s640/blogger-image-635065003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizyoiqByQEtYsJZ4i3jjZPF2cPK_XRgkwhB3q7cqVlLtmOaLwd2avwyrpvjZ2EeErNY0eTKMonmZrtPL-AEoqatID56B6CB_0WLH2lVuaIl1V37bgWQFwuKeheZKWW2mFTSattXw/s640/blogger-image-635065003.jpg" /></a></div>
On the vertiginous Vereda Larano</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHtN6xVRZFT7VZ8FZUuvwsRlZaq8E0N55q2QubIgwGm4KRWCpNQsoi-PJdJchfbZzeJdN-KKIlvK3-UPGyySTJS6LAJvCBdo7LwN7iqLwJStRZK_TEZQ_YQ1nd2ToS3XOpEEED-w/s640/blogger-image--1030432707.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHtN6xVRZFT7VZ8FZUuvwsRlZaq8E0N55q2QubIgwGm4KRWCpNQsoi-PJdJchfbZzeJdN-KKIlvK3-UPGyySTJS6LAJvCBdo7LwN7iqLwJStRZK_TEZQ_YQ1nd2ToS3XOpEEED-w/s640/blogger-image--1030432707.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Some sections of the path required care, especially when you're on your own!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXh-tjr8P1xo1SL-OvqpUZ0m-R9WD0ajaWAlS1_mRittVRrTD6oRssNPq2z7TJ2ja5eyjfRXL3-jmlirIkrV5cZyzSHe7ll4ZoheEVOSoPPOz45el4yJKnrm0X1Dg9uNpQdPpKDw/s640/blogger-image-1005370351.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXh-tjr8P1xo1SL-OvqpUZ0m-R9WD0ajaWAlS1_mRittVRrTD6oRssNPq2z7TJ2ja5eyjfRXL3-jmlirIkrV5cZyzSHe7ll4ZoheEVOSoPPOz45el4yJKnrm0X1Dg9uNpQdPpKDw/s640/blogger-image-1005370351.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Verada Larano</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaGKjfTmDFZu-uE3Nl5rjj1kNxw1cXzD-wkYKWgA0Beq-R4TaStVi57co2BMb6yriIYpAipvAut9zw-Ed-qW2nBOkJQneFiWIBQ0tgtE6K4UjTIc1NRPCiOFUVw92pV2gciuRwgw/s640/blogger-image-155647126.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaGKjfTmDFZu-uE3Nl5rjj1kNxw1cXzD-wkYKWgA0Beq-R4TaStVi57co2BMb6yriIYpAipvAut9zw-Ed-qW2nBOkJQneFiWIBQ0tgtE6K4UjTIc1NRPCiOFUVw92pV2gciuRwgw/s640/blogger-image-155647126.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9xyKiLha-fhnhVet-J7qWqVgDU5Mvio9JubD4jkzXODHmaVt1ud8juaOOjEn9kxBoE-k_rIKs4ZXQ8vXq-AysQYO02v3GtoPMpbLb1oPV8D5P40tyf0na1FWmO19B9IdmwrFOHQ/s640/blogger-image--1748465644.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9xyKiLha-fhnhVet-J7qWqVgDU5Mvio9JubD4jkzXODHmaVt1ud8juaOOjEn9kxBoE-k_rIKs4ZXQ8vXq-AysQYO02v3GtoPMpbLb1oPV8D5P40tyf0na1FWmO19B9IdmwrFOHQ/s640/blogger-image--1748465644.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Spot the traverse!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieAnUOzwwPnIhtdcUuDfdYIcD1E2IO1I9gU9JzRiM2_NvFXc2zyT9p8LdynAi2jxSaaITDjGmBqWdACvfQAzc1mEQDhVH_1CwG5L1aMbDFcHGRvzrf3XyZ2q9s9_YxlVwBVRFwfA/s640/blogger-image-392250768.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieAnUOzwwPnIhtdcUuDfdYIcD1E2IO1I9gU9JzRiM2_NvFXc2zyT9p8LdynAi2jxSaaITDjGmBqWdACvfQAzc1mEQDhVH_1CwG5L1aMbDFcHGRvzrf3XyZ2q9s9_YxlVwBVRFwfA/s640/blogger-image-392250768.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
'Protected' sections 300m above the sea</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE3iQ6XNQfNBfNLW1zumFE44HJu83RPL0a4DIcULlhn82A-Rh2P4b6wVZAmM2xO30fIJkJFHSI-_PAQcOJdaAhTGVbsnp3HV_jgiiCdcL26yehY_tl_SlIJOnh_XhokWoe7W9PKQ/s640/blogger-image-52859430.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE3iQ6XNQfNBfNLW1zumFE44HJu83RPL0a4DIcULlhn82A-Rh2P4b6wVZAmM2xO30fIJkJFHSI-_PAQcOJdaAhTGVbsnp3HV_jgiiCdcL26yehY_tl_SlIJOnh_XhokWoe7W9PKQ/s640/blogger-image-52859430.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Levada Caniçal</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUzGTUGwxIuiv66GloyoDLm-D-PyulYzPbpUTVhirE0i_sTrKOquf3FATLw0G5NkqlB-vNHsKPE8Y9MaEHfAycKt510ph52f2AU_TnNKRPM89xJP0sXBlVeQ45LlAqBXIBXPBpLQ/s640/blogger-image--2117295627.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUzGTUGwxIuiv66GloyoDLm-D-PyulYzPbpUTVhirE0i_sTrKOquf3FATLw0G5NkqlB-vNHsKPE8Y9MaEHfAycKt510ph52f2AU_TnNKRPM89xJP0sXBlVeQ45LlAqBXIBXPBpLQ/s640/blogger-image--2117295627.jpg" /></a></div>
Approaching Ribeira Seca<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
The following day I took a transfer to Ribeiro Frio ('cold river'), and found myself above 800m to start my walk. First I took a quick 3km side trip to the Balcoes viewpoint at 898m, which gave great views of Pico Ruivo 1862m and Ariero 1816m directly west, and fine vistas to the northeast from the Ribeira Metade valley into the Ribeira Seca valley further north. Well worth the extra distance, albeit on a very easy path.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgviZzqwxGlsRXaxvdOAj4qPkin6A2KlgQvwNIpV6GVOD2aSJlVdFeoO_vw9VWojQqq5yAhLogsAo5OuoAafQoKIiSRhbOzM-n7jZh2bXA_iUWd8iR5hllz3JaKzc4YCm_zqnff2g/s640/blogger-image-825696107.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgviZzqwxGlsRXaxvdOAj4qPkin6A2KlgQvwNIpV6GVOD2aSJlVdFeoO_vw9VWojQqq5yAhLogsAo5OuoAafQoKIiSRhbOzM-n7jZh2bXA_iUWd8iR5hllz3JaKzc4YCm_zqnff2g/s640/blogger-image-825696107.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
View to Pico Ruivo 1862m, Madeira's highest mountain, from the Balcoes viewpoint at Ribeiro Frio</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY7wAYdoCmqZlKaar9cOeRIrX4lmORVMIG-ZFwuqySni05ja0bwrmt_qTbSOLkUQUCs17orzTI4IfKxQuSas_EPEBfypf2IXLZ_AiJ0c1g2iq6Ryn0xBXRAEpPWscnGnFk6OZkWQ/s640/blogger-image--1341738011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY7wAYdoCmqZlKaar9cOeRIrX4lmORVMIG-ZFwuqySni05ja0bwrmt_qTbSOLkUQUCs17orzTI4IfKxQuSas_EPEBfypf2IXLZ_AiJ0c1g2iq6Ryn0xBXRAEpPWscnGnFk6OZkWQ/s640/blogger-image--1341738011.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
From Balcoes, the view northeast to Faial and Porto Da Cruz</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSuqPuwF3hv_mkzAsm2lMuAnMfMtpzluxLLu3sUD2BpHu7RR_o3SSrN9wzaBIlJjTHrm_xh0K6jb-dfn-4R1Sv1okhN6HEB-zNIQGENdpccsBJiW5ZlyTnftos4GijEZaMfGAP5A/s640/blogger-image--1956384656.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSuqPuwF3hv_mkzAsm2lMuAnMfMtpzluxLLu3sUD2BpHu7RR_o3SSrN9wzaBIlJjTHrm_xh0K6jb-dfn-4R1Sv1okhN6HEB-zNIQGENdpccsBJiW5ZlyTnftos4GijEZaMfGAP5A/s640/blogger-image--1956384656.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Pico Ruiva</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
The main walk was to follow two levadas, the Levada Furado and Levada Serra to get me from Ribeiro Frio to Santo da Serra, a small village pleasantly situated inland at about 700m and a little cooler than the rest of the island.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
What a difference a day makes though! Today's walking, whilst elevated and with the usual drops to one side of the Levada, was very straightforward and apart from the need to beat a number of guided walking parties on to the same route, was a very relaxing affair. The views can be concealed by dense laurel forest on some sections, but the latter half of the Levada Furado gave interesting walking through numerous rock arches with wonderful views to the northeast coast at Faial, looking down the Ribeira São Roque valley.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
The second part of the walk, from the Lamaceiros water tower, was delightfully relaxed strolling through pine forest alongside the Levada Serra. No heart attacks today!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqRYUFLXd4fCKZCKj5GlcnnSlsarP-06lSb-vwFeE2U4WqshfZn7ePFs0UqlT2BpFVDCBwyhl1CB4WsJDLmgPUJjYuo72UMVjorT_k_GNUD6Gt0-bZUyJAurnKqD_u2hDnTCs4Bg/s640/blogger-image-590688830.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqRYUFLXd4fCKZCKj5GlcnnSlsarP-06lSb-vwFeE2U4WqshfZn7ePFs0UqlT2BpFVDCBwyhl1CB4WsJDLmgPUJjYuo72UMVjorT_k_GNUD6Gt0-bZUyJAurnKqD_u2hDnTCs4Bg/s640/blogger-image-590688830.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Walking the Levada Furado</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfNzmtoudPAMucxzxT-iXTcId8GOTH_cggc342Jk4jjRILF9pnoH6YhUiuOE1CcolzqPrb1U0M7gYcuQmV1NGeGiOf3qog21WrxEH8EK4c5Id2LK6fflpGUc8Y2QSa3qkCvy_ygg/s640/blogger-image-350302020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfNzmtoudPAMucxzxT-iXTcId8GOTH_cggc342Jk4jjRILF9pnoH6YhUiuOE1CcolzqPrb1U0M7gYcuQmV1NGeGiOf3qog21WrxEH8EK4c5Id2LK6fflpGUc8Y2QSa3qkCvy_ygg/s640/blogger-image-350302020.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Levada Furado</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE1hPBZQLgs2fHJsiYyLh_GZzKMp5uW8ZVmYdLn1Wz7l-5dDZZ7Jt8LMWgpWbw3eZ3DAREp20Ex5St524wQN5zj1udoUfOAJYGNI10GWKgyotVcqFXzuE9T6jrIRv543Ka4-XbnQ/s640/blogger-image--2074585042.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE1hPBZQLgs2fHJsiYyLh_GZzKMp5uW8ZVmYdLn1Wz7l-5dDZZ7Jt8LMWgpWbw3eZ3DAREp20Ex5St524wQN5zj1udoUfOAJYGNI10GWKgyotVcqFXzuE9T6jrIRv543Ka4-XbnQ/s640/blogger-image--2074585042.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_NQf-joOVbaMbgMq7uBgenZSzYDafout6ndjpvgYGyHVM-suwixbFJUcESjp2BT_6xHwLN3UQbS_uOj9XQ38rGZh5NwtURhcQT64R7J_JacwW9xK5CbwE6BRq2Jl36VUwf6Fl3A/s640/blogger-image-1861357080.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_NQf-joOVbaMbgMq7uBgenZSzYDafout6ndjpvgYGyHVM-suwixbFJUcESjp2BT_6xHwLN3UQbS_uOj9XQ38rGZh5NwtURhcQT64R7J_JacwW9xK5CbwE6BRq2Jl36VUwf6Fl3A/s640/blogger-image-1861357080.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
The Levada Serra weaves its way gently through pine forests</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
A 'rest day' followed, although I slotted in a quick 10km walk down to the Levada Nova above Santa Cruz (near the airport). Easy walking, the path passing many bunches of agapanthus amidst eucalyptus trees and stands of bamboo. But now it's 'beer o'clock'...</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrecVZXH2llEyEZk87SlwCaJnnMaTwVMFf1XSEHt-0CWO1nDY3lduYATQg3wblseTG7LkQPPR7EAONMk3bJTf4stuNO86nxbDChMI_2NORdDw7QP8Hh-oH3HDBK6eMus96FrtZYA/s640/blogger-image-517383296.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrecVZXH2llEyEZk87SlwCaJnnMaTwVMFf1XSEHt-0CWO1nDY3lduYATQg3wblseTG7LkQPPR7EAONMk3bJTf4stuNO86nxbDChMI_2NORdDw7QP8Hh-oH3HDBK6eMus96FrtZYA/s640/blogger-image-517383296.jpg" /></a></div>
Looking down into the Ribeira Santa Cruz valley from the Levada Nova<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuX1DlEkPAvIKEW8hic7mdmrKQXsfPAYBKUZ5nAhl4ys9Lm1ee4pdHAVBjuLNZE9kdbL54oe50b2gJFZoeI7s61U94L_KrlZIjqEruFN6aRYkPXaWQjzq-mQE1Nq-f_rvcFuz-Jg/s640/blogger-image-1083352914.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuX1DlEkPAvIKEW8hic7mdmrKQXsfPAYBKUZ5nAhl4ys9Lm1ee4pdHAVBjuLNZE9kdbL54oe50b2gJFZoeI7s61U94L_KrlZIjqEruFN6aRYkPXaWQjzq-mQE1Nq-f_rvcFuz-Jg/s640/blogger-image-1083352914.jpg" /></a></div>
Agapanthus alongside the Levada Nova<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
On my penultimate walk, I joined the tourist throngs walking the popular stroll along the São Lourenço peninsular. A walk of about 8km, on well protected and many surfaced paths, including the 171m summit, the Morro do Furado. Splendid views of the peninsula cliffs, multi-coloured volcanic rocks, and north and south coasts. If you're going to do it, go as early as you can to beat the masses!</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYyP41ZxMJnDVb1LmbvkKHVIzrpkv174WOLeCyVcx4-vI9xjODixX1oFLUxPwgj8MbLYdc5S7gVWmphfSAppa4EEsmY9Poi2rdAie_zZXgmSMqCRdpJSnLcuTEKVGSBP3q_uLyLg/s640/blogger-image-1252366818.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYyP41ZxMJnDVb1LmbvkKHVIzrpkv174WOLeCyVcx4-vI9xjODixX1oFLUxPwgj8MbLYdc5S7gVWmphfSAppa4EEsmY9Poi2rdAie_zZXgmSMqCRdpJSnLcuTEKVGSBP3q_uLyLg/s640/blogger-image-1252366818.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
The little summit of the São Lourenço peninsula, the <span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Morro do Furado</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjmDpoQtsnsLFOn_5xCZG3pNSmP8sp4IDgszJa2xfxogG5ZAMa_pLdtPan1HAZrhcfMkVTiDygl4gO-CP-kskL0jsqzAmjJk1koOIZ4rIXvMHOpbK5nxaP3eCK4zwH3T99_tM_tw/s640/blogger-image--1480904741.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjmDpoQtsnsLFOn_5xCZG3pNSmP8sp4IDgszJa2xfxogG5ZAMa_pLdtPan1HAZrhcfMkVTiDygl4gO-CP-kskL0jsqzAmjJk1koOIZ4rIXvMHOpbK5nxaP3eCK4zwH3T99_tM_tw/s640/blogger-image--1480904741.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
North side of the peninsula</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCfVwkgaJ6E1kg1tu5Gul7J6ndzxS04zP11EMj79ESz-G8DCfKcs7sOtybQaK37B7KDw-s7jO5p3OeW8e9xwfyz9M5eizlcXPYbZoHEQucf8J7z9b6CP26PgTrFO3gjJcpFeockw/s640/blogger-image--774498633.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCfVwkgaJ6E1kg1tu5Gul7J6ndzxS04zP11EMj79ESz-G8DCfKcs7sOtybQaK37B7KDw-s7jO5p3OeW8e9xwfyz9M5eizlcXPYbZoHEQucf8J7z9b6CP26PgTrFO3gjJcpFeockw/s640/blogger-image--774498633.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Walkers on this popular route, some in flip flops, others bare chested, most unprepared. Sore feet, sunburnt bellies, and throbbing headaches from dehydration beckon...</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOXzn0gy59fX2G843HPKzHb82wrOyoPMvZlv7kogAT4c-jG8GLaPXRpLQ7t-xnkG1IcAoNOXk1UbDEanii-EQGFrwrjOaaQTx3JDbw_ooAVWs_HzgyCET64jlFEbJDMxIufZlogw/s640/blogger-image-1021177703.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOXzn0gy59fX2G843HPKzHb82wrOyoPMvZlv7kogAT4c-jG8GLaPXRpLQ7t-xnkG1IcAoNOXk1UbDEanii-EQGFrwrjOaaQTx3JDbw_ooAVWs_HzgyCET64jlFEbJDMxIufZlogw/s640/blogger-image-1021177703.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
The tip of the São Lourenço peninsula from the summit</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGhnCFDwytxX9Z-WxbOwn7i8xRCmCb5Wl2BPf4bSuPMdYPCVHUbejUeHJkVnfQpXMgBzHkeYZhdhyphenhyphenrP9j1EXYxSqlaH87iROiqMdZJWGxeIbBEtPLXs15EA5LOXaZnihfHHM0gqg/s640/blogger-image-1002001676.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGhnCFDwytxX9Z-WxbOwn7i8xRCmCb5Wl2BPf4bSuPMdYPCVHUbejUeHJkVnfQpXMgBzHkeYZhdhyphenhyphenrP9j1EXYxSqlaH87iROiqMdZJWGxeIbBEtPLXs15EA5LOXaZnihfHHM0gqg/s640/blogger-image-1002001676.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Stumpy on the summit, not the biggest he's ever climbed...</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
My final walking day took me from the village of Camacha, along the shady Levada da Serra and on to the Levada dos Tournos into the town of Monte. Giant eucalyptus trees dominated the walk, today in hazy sunshine. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Monte is famous for its botanical and tropical gardens, street toboggans and the cable car link down into Funchal, the capital city of Madeira.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
And now for a couple of nights in the elegant Quinta da Bela Vista, situated on a ridge above Funchal. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Feet up. Glass poured. Bliss.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Last day spent wandering in Funchal. Nice town, quite laid back and home to half the island's population of a quarter of a million people. Doors on one street on the Old Town showcase work by local artists, there's a fascinating fish section in the Mercado do Lavradores, and it's good to watch the world go by from the famous Golden Gate 'Grand Café'. I didn't bother with the Blandy's Wine Museum although it's probably worth a visit (check tour times beforehand), but enjoyed the various city gardens and sashimi in a tiny restaurant SHU.AKA on Rua das Fontes.</div>
A lazy final afternoon beckons! Ciao!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCRxtaAu4YZ1Ss3HIQhgyjRf3ccnyZScsVcx6Grjv3sfhSGUgDBuFFLVhQfOFg3Oci_msCl28wKFA5aqpR9OdBoBveeVjOPJUfP6oOYw7Ct68G_Z6C563vTJhPVO4xWZYcSdR3jQ/s640/blogger-image--548913803.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCRxtaAu4YZ1Ss3HIQhgyjRf3ccnyZScsVcx6Grjv3sfhSGUgDBuFFLVhQfOFg3Oci_msCl28wKFA5aqpR9OdBoBveeVjOPJUfP6oOYw7Ct68G_Z6C563vTJhPVO4xWZYcSdR3jQ/s640/blogger-image--548913803.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhweNnfCUUpN_ZPgTwmC2We6tpzwb_Vy87Q-_dyrZn4xeAjR_WCVOj7SCdxp02uApy6nAw-GzY1OR4YdE6B6iKwTT-oZ2psjFMgQG1u5v5pUvm0Dq-KzdfN9M82pI274xSBQW4zkQ/s640/blogger-image-634879260.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhweNnfCUUpN_ZPgTwmC2We6tpzwb_Vy87Q-_dyrZn4xeAjR_WCVOj7SCdxp02uApy6nAw-GzY1OR4YdE6B6iKwTT-oZ2psjFMgQG1u5v5pUvm0Dq-KzdfN9M82pI274xSBQW4zkQ/s640/blogger-image-634879260.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMO2Rg8VEZZC9bJBzrUKJBBEXCxq1gjk2sbwSWoIm-8pDfpx_WhTrnOvp67n4GbYAbvCu9UabLsSXOkWjnmHoDrWo4ep85mvdY6qMPXFOPPIi-s44bk2oF9XUQW0b_GiaMPAzJYg/s640/blogger-image-1387825749.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMO2Rg8VEZZC9bJBzrUKJBBEXCxq1gjk2sbwSWoIm-8pDfpx_WhTrnOvp67n4GbYAbvCu9UabLsSXOkWjnmHoDrWo4ep85mvdY6qMPXFOPPIi-s44bk2oF9XUQW0b_GiaMPAzJYg/s640/blogger-image-1387825749.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTitUpTPrBfyy2z1vhn-H6YI8i7hITrAPGa2bJgnAMhcTSwYU0NMSj7vLQsRoAegKGFOuMvk43cLQ-YzQU_6KvV61MFqjeynqKipSbrNY8qb71ONFxR_UlwDKq8e5zbhHF3U_bIQ/s640/blogger-image--1467802026.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTitUpTPrBfyy2z1vhn-H6YI8i7hITrAPGa2bJgnAMhcTSwYU0NMSj7vLQsRoAegKGFOuMvk43cLQ-YzQU_6KvV61MFqjeynqKipSbrNY8qb71ONFxR_UlwDKq8e5zbhHF3U_bIQ/s640/blogger-image--1467802026.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0v1fpeFAERj9EL9vYrEQytD7BjsOLHU55G0m2hyofBnYmlMQ93_WVvAEnYkj_KvHcUCmWjolIzcigeScYiECj3MO8Q-rkQRr325iAPLbsQcKg0eKC8Aed09_xsAZfwgTo9w8_kA/s640/blogger-image--544791216.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0v1fpeFAERj9EL9vYrEQytD7BjsOLHU55G0m2hyofBnYmlMQ93_WVvAEnYkj_KvHcUCmWjolIzcigeScYiECj3MO8Q-rkQRr325iAPLbsQcKg0eKC8Aed09_xsAZfwgTo9w8_kA/s640/blogger-image--544791216.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Black scabbard fish, locally known as Espada, feature frequently on Madeiran menus. If you'd seen this picture beforehand I bet you would have had second thoughts about trying it! Caught at depths of 800-1200m apparently! But tasty nonetheless...</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho9CsmiTCCa_dMLfCwj9xppC91-C0LYhejE-GhSBmuR3vNHPHtk0dRM5DxQCoVBC2ea4EX_ASDQpUoJAwuXBWaGRnZlGdaj7n49cgdWmQ1l-LqvGeHmDrB3CEJnRrZDeu6e5CeDg/s640/blogger-image--1917561922.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho9CsmiTCCa_dMLfCwj9xppC91-C0LYhejE-GhSBmuR3vNHPHtk0dRM5DxQCoVBC2ea4EX_ASDQpUoJAwuXBWaGRnZlGdaj7n49cgdWmQ1l-LqvGeHmDrB3CEJnRrZDeu6e5CeDg/s640/blogger-image--1917561922.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt4A8At5rLYN-zcHpiZy6hodpwLuRXvCfKSr2WumC7z-9KLGlbj5NSJz7SAGopGWiDtJQeijlqnvcaO1Qg5lyPcKvqSVvp3Ofvvvo_8dEXhtIncQiRpUmo2J-TaLhpO9Wwrt-xwQ/s640/blogger-image--1988416433.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt4A8At5rLYN-zcHpiZy6hodpwLuRXvCfKSr2WumC7z-9KLGlbj5NSJz7SAGopGWiDtJQeijlqnvcaO1Qg5lyPcKvqSVvp3Ofvvvo_8dEXhtIncQiRpUmo2J-TaLhpO9Wwrt-xwQ/s640/blogger-image--1988416433.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Blandy's tasting room</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcFbR-CIw894KmHubBiGwg8yvWA0yZMU5YWG4I8m-f0KU_qHkw1iU4syY0aMs4eAUVZP5MVZKqCrAWov8skgnLJ3C9e3bVA_8Dc2Q7RF1XkenBpmZ0Bx03gYNWAscPL3llWe2l9w/s640/blogger-image--374794733.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcFbR-CIw894KmHubBiGwg8yvWA0yZMU5YWG4I8m-f0KU_qHkw1iU4syY0aMs4eAUVZP5MVZKqCrAWov8skgnLJ3C9e3bVA_8Dc2Q7RF1XkenBpmZ0Bx03gYNWAscPL3llWe2l9w/s640/blogger-image--374794733.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9888425.post-56955374425750059672013-06-08T13:14:00.001+00:002013-06-08T14:39:10.555+00:00Slovenia - June 2013<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:TargetScreenSize>544x376</o:TargetScreenSize>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-GB</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0cm;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:"Times New Roman";}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCSnu3DVNJOMeO56S_kIlBOMqtuAbEGdXlSLn5ClohwtBD3buLd_auzVvhaFeTkvJoaWS8xYyb1tXGfQygI9Q8DxtYOQ1kfEjfeNnRb2a_EghSlcuGoM3N3WGov-bhnjzS5SFXRw/s1600/P1030727.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCSnu3DVNJOMeO56S_kIlBOMqtuAbEGdXlSLn5ClohwtBD3buLd_auzVvhaFeTkvJoaWS8xYyb1tXGfQygI9Q8DxtYOQ1kfEjfeNnRb2a_EghSlcuGoM3N3WGov-bhnjzS5SFXRw/s400/P1030727.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Kugy monument, at the start of the <span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">So</span><span style="font-family: 'Arial Unicode MS'; text-align: -webkit-auto;">š</span><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">ka Pot</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Body1">
The year
2013 has seen some weird weather, and it's not just been a UK phenomenon.
Arriving in Slovenia at the end of May, I faced heavy rain and temperatures
barely into single figures as I landed at Ljubljana airport. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
The
result, empty hotels and mountain paths devoid of people. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
Slovenia,
east of Italy, south of Austria, north of Croatia and west of Hungary, became
an independent republic when it split from Yugoslavia in 1991, and normally
relies on Italian, Austrian and German tourists travelling overland for
business. So they stay away when the weather is poor.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
Their
loss. My gain. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
Although
the weather stayed unpredictable, one initial wet day in the hills, doing a
circuit around the town of Kranjska Gora in the north west up close to the
Austrian border, the next couple of days walking the famed So<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">š</span>ka Pot trail and visiting mountain fortresses and WW1
defences around the town of Bovec to the south west were, thankfully, in dry
conditions. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
The
walking in Slovenia is well waymarked, as in many European countries, although
it is notable just how many diversions constantly have to be added due to
erosion, rockfall and landslides. This part of Europe is on the seismically
active southern boundary of the Eurasian tectonic plate on the north-western
boundary of the Mediterranean-Himalayan seismic belt, which is one of the most
seismically active zones on Earth. A 5.6 level earthquake was recorded in 1998
in the Krn mountains south east of Bovec, and a 5.2 rated event just north west
of the previous epicentre in 2004.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
But don't
let that put you off. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj37AoTQ74PA_nz5EzHe2hAYYK20hswolw1wtcsghkT3Xg4aj9XLLdTJmSf_JH8ZFAWgZKBe1qOriZl1S3z8S_RILQNeuiioblPkAsU-kvKbjcGyRPczsVtCCUyx09JtxnIq1Mv7g/s1600/P1030954.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj37AoTQ74PA_nz5EzHe2hAYYK20hswolw1wtcsghkT3Xg4aj9XLLdTJmSf_JH8ZFAWgZKBe1qOriZl1S3z8S_RILQNeuiioblPkAsU-kvKbjcGyRPczsVtCCUyx09JtxnIq1Mv7g/s400/P1030954.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">Triglav from
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:TargetScreenSize>544x376</o:TargetScreenSize>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-GB</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0cm;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:"Times New Roman";}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment--><span lang="EN-US">Ž</span><span lang="EN-US">aga</span></span><br />
<!--EndFragment--></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Body1">
Walking
here has been a delight, some challenging paths, a pristine environment, lush
wild flowers in the meadows and mixed beech and pine forest at the lower
elevations, yielding to impressive limestone peaks, with the snow line
presently at about 2000m.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
Around
Kranjska Gora the rainclouds sometimes parted enough to give tantalising views
of the northern mountains of the Julian Alps, fine peaks like Prisank 2547m and
Razor 2601m, and the vertiginous summit of Jalovec 2645m to the south west. But
most views remained elusive as I hunkered down to walk a sodden 25km.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirOkvMR3Ie-_YTJPU6pv-f6aePU6ymN5xtG0vUH6N6scLyVQtTun_Qgmp-IFn0K7eKPouPjYLuZWD67j-UqXaEAYX_llnyQpkOy3TF25lnnK-ZgoZfFpUUJA3KEFtYYv6FJ-cfsA/s1600/P1030702.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirOkvMR3Ie-_YTJPU6pv-f6aePU6ymN5xtG0vUH6N6scLyVQtTun_Qgmp-IFn0K7eKPouPjYLuZWD67j-UqXaEAYX_llnyQpkOy3TF25lnnK-ZgoZfFpUUJA3KEFtYYv6FJ-cfsA/s400/P1030702.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">Russian chapel north of the
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:TargetScreenSize>544x376</o:TargetScreenSize>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-GB</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0cm;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:"Times New Roman";}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment--><span lang="EN-US">Vr</span><span lang="EN-US">š</span><span lang="EN-US">i</span><span lang="EN-US">č</span><span lang="EN-US"> Pass </span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtsX_uXYGgIqzE_W_f0N8IMTvg7pYr8c5PULWEm37kUYceuwKDxMX2i_YTFM_1eboJEhnu-l7L1seGKwOH1sg1Car_DMWFk1FneCsHXbyQLQqQ_5fEU7WVJPT1OBCGnnTNqieshQ/s1600/P1030713.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtsX_uXYGgIqzE_W_f0N8IMTvg7pYr8c5PULWEm37kUYceuwKDxMX2i_YTFM_1eboJEhnu-l7L1seGKwOH1sg1Car_DMWFk1FneCsHXbyQLQqQ_5fEU7WVJPT1OBCGnnTNqieshQ/s400/P1030713.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">View south from the
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:TargetScreenSize>544x376</o:TargetScreenSize>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-GB</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0cm;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:"Times New Roman";}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment--><span lang="EN-US">Vr</span><span lang="EN-US">š</span><span lang="EN-US">i</span><span lang="EN-US">č</span><span lang="EN-US"> Pass</span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";"> </span><!--EndFragment--></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Body1">
Next day,
to reach the delightful So<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">č</span>a valley route (So<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">š</span>ka Pot) from the Kugy monument, a transfer took me up and
down the 50 hairpin bends of the Vr<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">š</span>i<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">č</span> Pass. Just 24 hours before, 11cms of snow had fallen here,
so my driver was much relieved when we summited with only a little slush on the
surface. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
The Kugy
monument commemorates Dr Julias Kugy, a pioneer of mountaineering in this part
of the world. It's a fine bronze figure erected by the Slovenian Alpine
Association in his memory. </div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFBjDCeH2xX62JKUIdRojcn3OPu9cE6KFTw3gJm6_hF4pTzonFXREpMOKsZwKuFrbIniNa97FdV6cuO1YdO_lAqeQZuNdjq8dWAi2hU_FZTvZnOIFYN8w_LMPitbEtMxWLyRoc3g/s1600/P1030738.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFBjDCeH2xX62JKUIdRojcn3OPu9cE6KFTw3gJm6_hF4pTzonFXREpMOKsZwKuFrbIniNa97FdV6cuO1YdO_lAqeQZuNdjq8dWAi2hU_FZTvZnOIFYN8w_LMPitbEtMxWLyRoc3g/s640/P1030738.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trenta valley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Body1">
The route takes you down through the Trenta Valley,
which ultimately becomes the So<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">č</span>a valley, turquoise waters
smashing down gorges and rapids, and a constant companion all day. The highest
mountain in Slovenia, Triglav 2864m, was in view today. Apparently, all
Slovenians see it as their patriotic task to climb it during their lifetime.
The summit approach is on a sharp rocky ridge with ladders and chains for protection,
and it gets very crowded in season. Somehow, I don't think it'll make my
'bucket list.'<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8B5vLnMSr9I_9awgX4HgO1_Q7-3XXD_ueLnuD72NUSfSEg6Z7FZoyjVL2RGgw8-YRCdLxznlrvs-m87u3iBziiyphE3t8uNGpch1FmrwD_zL_VHg_m19XiMyZFyLD5ol8gqLkWQ/s1600/P1030759.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8B5vLnMSr9I_9awgX4HgO1_Q7-3XXD_ueLnuD72NUSfSEg6Z7FZoyjVL2RGgw8-YRCdLxznlrvs-m87u3iBziiyphE3t8uNGpch1FmrwD_zL_VHg_m19XiMyZFyLD5ol8gqLkWQ/s640/P1030759.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Triglav</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkzanxsNhI6F5rQCGMXWFwcsViDvPQX14wjGbp1r4e9GxKfsIxw0wuolzbsKq-GQvGYOaPOsPyyKSMFH2pHB9R7c-CXUUE83Hrc2sZ2Hn7vANLP8e0gKX-kIjiFy6goOV1vjFWog/s1600/P1030794.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkzanxsNhI6F5rQCGMXWFwcsViDvPQX14wjGbp1r4e9GxKfsIxw0wuolzbsKq-GQvGYOaPOsPyyKSMFH2pHB9R7c-CXUUE83Hrc2sZ2Hn7vANLP8e0gKX-kIjiFy6goOV1vjFWog/s640/P1030794.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;"><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">So</span><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">č</span><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">a valley</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Body1">
From
Bovec I walked a section of the Walk of Peace, Pot Miru, which interconnects
the rich cultural and natural heritage
along the onetime Isonzo Front. It is a memorial to all who suffered in WW1 and
a reminder to us all of the futility of war. The day started at the trenches
and caves dug by the Austro-Hungarian troops before they finally pushed back
the invading Italian army with gas in 1917. I had the place to myself, and it
was eery.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGNT-UuAX6PPiHMN7Orc7bX6AiUBJ1iYvYZJj51ImtlVeuz7f_xwh7j9DpH5eLsh_l_RIbeVqRIhqGmYSkItkFKMt50Ua7D_8WRVDmdFF6Dzv5ygFd1O4gWHh6L2N3Hg1Kow04BA/s1600/P1030819.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGNT-UuAX6PPiHMN7Orc7bX6AiUBJ1iYvYZJj51ImtlVeuz7f_xwh7j9DpH5eLsh_l_RIbeVqRIhqGmYSkItkFKMt50Ua7D_8WRVDmdFF6Dzv5ygFd1O4gWHh6L2N3Hg1Kow04BA/s400/P1030819.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rombon, above Bovec</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyVUaRyTAYACEBZ_hLT2PMXcBURpOsrhQe-Of420tlZmAZlkJbPjZPMa4ooaoaNXZIQ5pA8whvLUPFnxDaU3Ohwa3UKl3-xknL_saMnQP-tqlbwL44sIeGYVAPjGzcgtbZuXdhMA/s1600/P1030834.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyVUaRyTAYACEBZ_hLT2PMXcBURpOsrhQe-Of420tlZmAZlkJbPjZPMa4ooaoaNXZIQ5pA8whvLUPFnxDaU3Ohwa3UKl3-xknL_saMnQP-tqlbwL44sIeGYVAPjGzcgtbZuXdhMA/s400/P1030834.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:TargetScreenSize>544x376</o:TargetScreenSize>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-GB</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0cm;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:"Times New Roman";}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment--><span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;">Ravelnik Hill, WW1 site, above Bovec </span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUYoEJ_qV5yqrH7AIlvAv_oTK1zKjNHb1GGe-1QGz5M10Mj-kBSyfFvWRD62e314EGr418F8syANBpoAnFq1jG6i3fGElup27u1dWIpFLGGNreHHb0vBIyniKdadOM-wCLL9kF7g/s1600/P1030846.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUYoEJ_qV5yqrH7AIlvAv_oTK1zKjNHb1GGe-1QGz5M10Mj-kBSyfFvWRD62e314EGr418F8syANBpoAnFq1jG6i3fGElup27u1dWIpFLGGNreHHb0vBIyniKdadOM-wCLL9kF7g/s640/P1030846.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">Museum volunteer at the <span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">Klu</span><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">ž</span><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">e fortress</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Body1">
Further
up towards the Predel Pass and the Italian border, I visited the Klu<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">ž</span>e and Hermann fortresses which guarded the Koritnica valley
from foreign incursions, the former originally established in1420 against
Germanic and Turkish invasions, and subsequently taken by Napoleon and later by
the Italians in WW1. There are great views to be had from the Hermann fortress,
accessed through a 100m long tunnel (not lit) and a lofty path which traverses
the limestone cliffs. Around Bovec there are some fine mountains peering down
on you, the bulk of Rombon 2208m dominating the skyline, although the lower but
perfect pyramidal peak of Svinjak 1653m wins my vote.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQZzfun2ZH27ZAzb7MO0bdAZdaSicaBUmJIlR5ZA9VERUIOSSIUIzXKrtmltSkYgV3ysLRC0g6ENsbsZNTvlVUnPPJgspMG6O7jFkxUBnLtjz9PkL2RoG0vkYkTuL1MFKQeWp8kg/s1600/P1030894.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQZzfun2ZH27ZAzb7MO0bdAZdaSicaBUmJIlR5ZA9VERUIOSSIUIzXKrtmltSkYgV3ysLRC0g6ENsbsZNTvlVUnPPJgspMG6O7jFkxUBnLtjz9PkL2RoG0vkYkTuL1MFKQeWp8kg/s640/P1030894.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rombon and Svinjak, from the valley south of Bovec</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Once
again, I've been walking a route organised by <a href="http://www.headwater.com/" target="_blank">Headwater</a>, who design the route,
provide detailed walking notes and fix the hotels and the transfer of your
luggage between them.</div>
<div class="Body1">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
Later in
the week I continued my journey into Slovenia. A long day's walking from Bovec
brought me to the bustling little town of Kobarid, en route a diversion
necessary to get me around a recent
landslide. Leaving Bovec, the mountains to the west and north were formidable
sights in the early morning light, the summit of Rombon revealing itself more
clearly and the glaciated ridge from Visoki Kanin 2587m to the ski area below
Mt Forato 2498m standing in stark relief against a crystal blue sky.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4yb-fDd5FpltM_0qH44AP6knU_o6EFHqrs8d07LyKadcI7dnFftmbUHah9XT0weAsdXHhR1t3zyYFUAmbOFWaVhTL8gRi1ZafN9plZJ2Tt9VrnXzcqso_MmBwsGKI_XF-JU5wHQ/s1600/P1030921.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4yb-fDd5FpltM_0qH44AP6knU_o6EFHqrs8d07LyKadcI7dnFftmbUHah9XT0weAsdXHhR1t3zyYFUAmbOFWaVhTL8gRi1ZafN9plZJ2Tt9VrnXzcqso_MmBwsGKI_XF-JU5wHQ/s640/P1030921.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">Ridge from Visoki Kanin 2587m to the ski area below Mt Forato 2498m </span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWhmDoZ7cRXMqMa6BQdhVOhvk2k0-tGFprMhUllH-UE3iG-iWuFQFZfVtF2MpSGwAbSZObq3DugW6PxAz7YXBZ0gxYOxBc2xcDu9BXI7zRx-E3Swmv2A7sp0rpobtRWuKl903zgg/s1600/P1030928.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWhmDoZ7cRXMqMa6BQdhVOhvk2k0-tGFprMhUllH-UE3iG-iWuFQFZfVtF2MpSGwAbSZObq3DugW6PxAz7YXBZ0gxYOxBc2xcDu9BXI7zRx-E3Swmv2A7sp0rpobtRWuKl903zgg/s640/P1030928.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh64cqmIhXjc1SGPgiux-uysZMCrcaWiBIYmt1PEdUTtsrLHutZQdqSLUKyKI4uJqZjtPPauGBx29Z1VxOG3-AWdX5D01GUO1aDkDGHnGOdGqmvTOtaEG2Cl2fe2sJLS2JRsV_4iA/s1600/P1030933.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh64cqmIhXjc1SGPgiux-uysZMCrcaWiBIYmt1PEdUTtsrLHutZQdqSLUKyKI4uJqZjtPPauGBx29Z1VxOG3-AWdX5D01GUO1aDkDGHnGOdGqmvTOtaEG2Cl2fe2sJLS2JRsV_4iA/s640/P1030933.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;"><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">So</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">č</span><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">a valley from </span>
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:TargetScreenSize>544x376</o:TargetScreenSize>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-GB</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0cm;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:"Times New Roman";}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment--><span lang="EN-US">Log </span><span lang="EN-US">Č</span><span lang="EN-US">ezso</span><span lang="EN-US">š</span><span lang="EN-US">ki</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The route
took me through the quiet village of <span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Ç</span>ezso<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">č</span>a, devastated by the 2004 earthquake but now a model of
rural tranquility. Further along the So<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">č</span>a valley, rafters and kayakers
raced down the tumbling waters of this beautiful river, braving grade 4 and 5
rapids in places. Rather them than me.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
From
Kobarid there's a historical trail, my objective next day.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
Historical
trail!? Stump doesn't do these...he only wants high mountain paths, I hear you
say. But this is Slovenia. And their historical trail involves plenty of hills,
narrow paths, and after one diversion to an obscure viewpoint, an unexpected
wildlife experience! A bright start on this particular day, so off early to get
good light for photography. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihQb4PYi5ILXHM6Bltn8SrDifWnxz9u-mLDml0vcsr94PvJ77am5to0mATa3q7XuFbaByGt7TBco1mLZZGcYF9AIlzwLFZ2sUEWPEfzpKLA3q0FuHGAuh3L2M9Vn-Nrpu0cFSDYw/s1600/P1030987.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihQb4PYi5ILXHM6Bltn8SrDifWnxz9u-mLDml0vcsr94PvJ77am5to0mATa3q7XuFbaByGt7TBco1mLZZGcYF9AIlzwLFZ2sUEWPEfzpKLA3q0FuHGAuh3L2M9Vn-Nrpu0cFSDYw/s400/P1030987.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">The historic town of Kobarid</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmnCrMr3iH06IEYTRCQRybWaXHM8eZbg4gEv0y0nQ59hLxZwVC2n-RbfgwlbUDOTZHFU6mEw-Ml2dh7R3JYxXW99TmzAuMw2c6JLywo_Sjoj6sZCva7gMwFcCxALcSSrPm4o9P7w/s1600/P1030992.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmnCrMr3iH06IEYTRCQRybWaXHM8eZbg4gEv0y0nQ59hLxZwVC2n-RbfgwlbUDOTZHFU6mEw-Ml2dh7R3JYxXW99TmzAuMw2c6JLywo_Sjoj6sZCva7gMwFcCxALcSSrPm4o9P7w/s400/P1030992.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kobarid, known for the Battle of Caporetto, where the Italian retreat <br />was documented by Ernest Hemingway in <i>A Farewell to Arms</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
The first
port of call, an impressive and stylish monument to the Italian dead of WW1
above Kobarid. Then, a steep little variant to a viewpoint high above Kobarid.
And this is where there was some excitement. First a stand off with a large
male chamois, well, until he got bored, sniffed loudly and bounded up a nearby
cliff, as you do...Then on the descent, my first run in with a proper snake.
Hissing loudly, a metre long black Gad (or it could have been a Go<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">ś</span>), seemed a bit upset when I disturbed it's morning warm-up
when I bounded back down the path. Needless to say, I spent the rest of the day
wary of every tree root and branch that I happened upon during the remainder of
the walk!<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWKD9K1I5_UvvhyphenhyphenDKYbEYitq-NZo11D9D0gxjrWFy0-6mFY5NkGsJzy-3FNgaiTSHCbslRJGNZtfTGfYMV64YfQ8IGvPbwKq5Cq_R_akn-qVmCGg08BoxoA410y_lCIjs6ImZG7g/s1600/P1040019.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWKD9K1I5_UvvhyphenhyphenDKYbEYitq-NZo11D9D0gxjrWFy0-6mFY5NkGsJzy-3FNgaiTSHCbslRJGNZtfTGfYMV64YfQ8IGvPbwKq5Cq_R_akn-qVmCGg08BoxoA410y_lCIjs6ImZG7g/s400/P1040019.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:TargetScreenSize>544x376</o:TargetScreenSize>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-GB</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0cm;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:"Times New Roman";}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment--><span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">Kobarid from the Velike
Rob viewpoint, the Ossuary & Church of St Anthony to the left </span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
Onwards.
Up to visit the ancient hilltop settlement of Tonocov Grad, then steeply down
through the Italian trenches dug in WW1, before an interesting walk on an
elevated platform to view the stunning Kozjak waterfall which falls 15m into a
cave, and then more WW1 defensive positions. An interesting morning, which
helped me work up a thirst ;-)<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPdhji7szfRjLTbelv5yaEJl9F5BzgaEqwgpWqJd_GES_n3AY598GyiDlkplevAZAReJGPlA9NHoh20m6SpQ_3oYwPoNNHgekcWApamgSgoaFdFd7GvNsTDOT3gu532itW8h8Fvw/s1600/P1040031.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPdhji7szfRjLTbelv5yaEJl9F5BzgaEqwgpWqJd_GES_n3AY598GyiDlkplevAZAReJGPlA9NHoh20m6SpQ_3oYwPoNNHgekcWApamgSgoaFdFd7GvNsTDOT3gu532itW8h8Fvw/s640/P1040031.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">Route to the WW1 trenches above the <span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">So</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">č</span><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">a valley near Kobarid</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiTPXG9byzod2B9bRW5iKFRnh40YpjI6ozruWTCsDavl76KeOsLeR-ppdqDUO1L-xm8uYbsWVinUDlaS7H41OjxsAE9IyfzIyWqX3K9MSj2OMkWGrBU8zU6R7_kVxthyegDJkGUQ/s1600/P1040036.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiTPXG9byzod2B9bRW5iKFRnh40YpjI6ozruWTCsDavl76KeOsLeR-ppdqDUO1L-xm8uYbsWVinUDlaS7H41OjxsAE9IyfzIyWqX3K9MSj2OMkWGrBU8zU6R7_kVxthyegDJkGUQ/s640/P1040036.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Route to the Kozjak falls</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
Incidentally,
the museum in Kobarid, the Kobari<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">š</span>ki Muzej, is excellent and
thought provoking. It mainly covers the events of WW1 along the So<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">č</span>a/Isonzo front when the Italian and Austro-Hungarian forces
were ranged against each other. Recommended.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
Next, a
journey by train from Most na So<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">č</span>i to Bohinjsk<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">à</span> Bistrica, en route to my next base in Rib<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">č</span>ev Laz, on the edge of Lake Bohinj. A more commercialised
area this, with lots of coach parties coming and going, but by the end of the
day the lake was perfectly calm, very few people left in the valley, and it was
gloriously peaceful. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIVYnhEHoUnMDyxLv-lix0vVYoD83LKqSCFzIVgtpMw5rmbvGQj17e5Zvxrjmg0JMTLRj_TKBVHx1iR0AUzHeYq9dNvF7cVmGeBh5cY94iNc8smXjtU5q-83w1ssVYOJMF1sLkPA/s1600/P1040079.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIVYnhEHoUnMDyxLv-lix0vVYoD83LKqSCFzIVgtpMw5rmbvGQj17e5Zvxrjmg0JMTLRj_TKBVHx1iR0AUzHeYq9dNvF7cVmGeBh5cY94iNc8smXjtU5q-83w1ssVYOJMF1sLkPA/s400/P1040079.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:TargetScreenSize>544x376</o:TargetScreenSize>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-GB</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0cm;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:"Times New Roman";}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment--><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;"><span lang="EN-US">Rib</span><span lang="EN-US">č</span><span lang="EN-US">ev Laz, at the start of Lake Bohinj</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL5RQ7d46FFADeHZc-GTqZ2ZQwAJbSYnfb5FMsGMIA3awQoxtPtFQrt6RvvSBva376trlKI9zgR6ORpm9foRKzn3nNcK4v9oFczV6AbvHIkdU1o2AC0k9YNekrNWoYO4Zxle2TGQ/s1600/P1040087.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL5RQ7d46FFADeHZc-GTqZ2ZQwAJbSYnfb5FMsGMIA3awQoxtPtFQrt6RvvSBva376trlKI9zgR6ORpm9foRKzn3nNcK4v9oFczV6AbvHIkdU1o2AC0k9YNekrNWoYO4Zxle2TGQ/s400/P1040087.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
My last
full day in Slovenia can be described as a 'B' day: bus, balcon (high level
walk from the top station of the Vogel cable car), boat, bike (a good ride in
the valley, along the lakeside and in surrounding villages) and, predictably,
beer. A good end to a thoroughly enjoyable trip.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnL91gGFj0Ck3Z4-IDIwQbYk8nd0ZL7cuENDyJrsGOTa8varZmA7gyz-rBbG9XbXnIfqPimJ8H3lA8poHL-zAZwiKuriehc23k26Kf2Y-cgOItWZgcfeTtcRV5WwTR7G74u8zX9w/s1600/P1040132.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnL91gGFj0Ck3Z4-IDIwQbYk8nd0ZL7cuENDyJrsGOTa8varZmA7gyz-rBbG9XbXnIfqPimJ8H3lA8poHL-zAZwiKuriehc23k26Kf2Y-cgOItWZgcfeTtcRV5WwTR7G74u8zX9w/s640/P1040132.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Central Julian Alps, from the Vogel ski area, Triglav in cloud right of centre</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXXig0jgpMPJoZmfnPCZzffCLhAKv9yaqN4z8ofqklLn1xdwKnRB8lWRTCtKEoQmpUU38_Sx-JuCA_tSKoaqcIhNVvOkbpdl0_HeClT0a6eL04i3ZWI-xVikU7Nc35jr1vua8JMA/s1600/P1040155.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXXig0jgpMPJoZmfnPCZzffCLhAKv9yaqN4z8ofqklLn1xdwKnRB8lWRTCtKEoQmpUU38_Sx-JuCA_tSKoaqcIhNVvOkbpdl0_HeClT0a6eL04i3ZWI-xVikU7Nc35jr1vua8JMA/s640/P1040155.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Southern ridges of the Julian Alps</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI4XFbO0jX04FBFL6m7QDFgfyNZ5BdcDwRTomXX90Uov1KDl-0-Js6BwBalIHD7_5Y2kt_PvnsjiBKuR0VyFRCdgjAE-PqV-m_AEBrAsL-M2Z8XfvvDrBG_EmVD40vF5nY3mXQLg/s1600/P1040188.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI4XFbO0jX04FBFL6m7QDFgfyNZ5BdcDwRTomXX90Uov1KDl-0-Js6BwBalIHD7_5Y2kt_PvnsjiBKuR0VyFRCdgjAE-PqV-m_AEBrAsL-M2Z8XfvvDrBG_EmVD40vF5nY3mXQLg/s640/P1040188.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lake Bohinj</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
A few
other points about Slovenia.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
Slovenian
food is fairly typical Alpine fodder - dried meats, grilled meats and cheese,
but highlights were the simple potato served with ewes milk cottage cheese at
the Metoja restaurant in the Trenta valley, and the trout cooked in butter made
from goats milk served at the Dobra Vila hotel in Bovec. And the local beer La<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">š</span>ko came out tops for me.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
What has
struck me over the last week is how thoroughly modern and efficient Slovenia
is, but without the crowds that other Alpine countries attract, and offering
far better value for money. The people are genuinely friendly and universally
helpful, and there is great pride in their history and the general upkeep of
their environment. I can honestly say I saw no litter, anywhere. And just to
look at how beautifully their gardens and vegetable plots are tended tells you
a lot about this country.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
One final
thought drawn from that most famous of horror movie lines...'don't look back.'<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
It might
be the effect of my mother's recent passing, or the memory of a sign board on
the So<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">š</span>ka Pot trail which said that
brown bear and lynx sometimes wander into this region, or maybe just the sound
of rain drops falling in the undergrowth, but some of the more remote forest
sections definitely felt spooky. The moral of the story is...bring a walking
companion next time! <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
Slovenia
is too good to keep to yourself. Put it on your list.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrJbEjILPKROx6bYkvBdTweqm_7LVDdMEFfcureVh4NrWZFuVZaBLz82MnOJERHtD3zrmtDTaqG5XKFnxbMFjSN1X2XCHx9e3sEMhsvvfK0f9VLZ50sFLFZfNwawPJO388rc1DOA/s1600/P1040186.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrJbEjILPKROx6bYkvBdTweqm_7LVDdMEFfcureVh4NrWZFuVZaBLz82MnOJERHtD3zrmtDTaqG5XKFnxbMFjSN1X2XCHx9e3sEMhsvvfK0f9VLZ50sFLFZfNwawPJO388rc1DOA/s640/P1040186.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9888425.post-78962502253146556112013-04-29T07:45:00.000+00:002013-05-01T09:29:37.882+00:00Lycian Way, Turkey - 2013<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:TargetScreenSize>544x376</o:TargetScreenSize>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-GB</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0cm;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:"Times New Roman";}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYFlwJk60RotMXzBhSTolSkjRjT2a60TJRJe3sXQ_818cXa5-leLF_jW1D4vYC7axnYUMqJM86glTUBzH6B-msBm6pvFPPxoS7tsCKv2-NanLRewKVo01fYkxJz7td5amhRd1tDA/s1600/P1030533.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYFlwJk60RotMXzBhSTolSkjRjT2a60TJRJe3sXQ_818cXa5-leLF_jW1D4vYC7axnYUMqJM86glTUBzH6B-msBm6pvFPPxoS7tsCKv2-NanLRewKVo01fYkxJz7td5amhRd1tDA/s400/P1030533.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
It's
early season for walking in Turkey, but arriving in Dalaman after a four and
half hour flight from Birmingham I was certainly ready for a bit of a warm
after the cold hard winter we've endured in the UK this year. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
Dalaman
airport was virtually deserted, as was the new road that twists its way through
vertiginous country south to my first base in Kayak<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">ö</span>y. Home for the next two nights is the Villa Rhapsody
www.villarhapsody.com just outside Kayak<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">ö</span>y, the village below the site
of a large deserted settlement (Kaya) that used to be inhabited by Greeks
before forced repatriation to their own country in 1923 following a failed
Greek invasion attempt. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
The first
night here was 'amusing.' Early to bed, a few random dogs barking first, then the
local toads started croaking, followed by a seriously confused cockerel
sounding off (0115 to be precise), then gunshots (locals hunting wild boar) and
then I discovered I had a mozzy in my room (by the end of the night three had
been culled...bloody things!). A disturbed night...earplugs in future! On the
second night a hee-hawing donkey decided to add to the cacophony. Ho hum...<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
It's a
spooky spot, the old village of Kaya, nestled up against a hill and with
several churches, one next to a building that houses, to this day, human bones,
and most buildings now in a state of advanced decay.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiddmyjuFla0nf8yZVl4hDmMwNwkp88_EzjYGAgLpQZazfRGAWbiU8NmzjNPfmVQkGEHpEXM8IQm9WKyY3e0T4zDcr-o8Wcz1S9SPVtvMHDoqt0vfD8XksXIBbCZdiBPIqKm00aLQ/s1600/P1030373.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiddmyjuFla0nf8yZVl4hDmMwNwkp88_EzjYGAgLpQZazfRGAWbiU8NmzjNPfmVQkGEHpEXM8IQm9WKyY3e0T4zDcr-o8Wcz1S9SPVtvMHDoqt0vfD8XksXIBbCZdiBPIqKm00aLQ/s400/P1030373.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The abandoned village of Kaya</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZI6_tJnH1USFe57qzC1aa9v7TmXe_f05hzPVGRV5XbJhl85hOqvt9v-xM_nJ5YtHfQLZh-nhfFn427IoWJaw6H59J-cOMGfsUfwQY6CLSJ2Pg_qkFnqN_iw4k8zFvA8_GiE8y_A/s1600/P1030417.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZI6_tJnH1USFe57qzC1aa9v7TmXe_f05hzPVGRV5XbJhl85hOqvt9v-xM_nJ5YtHfQLZh-nhfFn427IoWJaw6H59J-cOMGfsUfwQY6CLSJ2Pg_qkFnqN_iw4k8zFvA8_GiE8y_A/s400/P1030417.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
My warm up walk took me
through the ruins then over a saddle through pine forest on a rocky limestone
track to the beach resort of Olu Deniz, home to a lagoon, a wide beach and many
paragliders, the air above festooned with them soaring the thermals on arrival.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
The
little hotel in Kayak<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">ö</span>y is a real find, with great
hosts Atilla and Jeanne and good grub, plus the excellent Turkish brew, Efes, a
delightfully fresh pilsner style lager at 5% abv. Yum. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
They
leant me a mountain bike for the afternoon and a pleasant excursion in the
afternoon sun took me to the beautiful viewpoint above Gemiler Beach, the sea a
radiant turquoise hue. A nice start to the week. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim_c9lpjX3faEZAtJ2ukQDhatNLK0C-z_IUue-TP0bHyALgbmqgUSJ4Mb5qIlHBOviIvK0KeB1Sxh-ATebCYOjf8TwJTawB-QkQmg7XDVWrnED9QkAQZtXlwZ5lmEMnDX_Y0z54g/s1600/P1030411.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="357" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim_c9lpjX3faEZAtJ2ukQDhatNLK0C-z_IUue-TP0bHyALgbmqgUSJ4Mb5qIlHBOviIvK0KeB1Sxh-ATebCYOjf8TwJTawB-QkQmg7XDVWrnED9QkAQZtXlwZ5lmEMnDX_Y0z54g/s400/P1030411.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Above Gemiler Beach</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The
second day took me from the hamlet of
Ovacik, along the Lycian Way with stunning coastal scenery, then below the Baba
Dag Mountain to Kirme, and on to the tiny village of Faralya. Occasionally
tortoises would be seen meandering (slowly!) on the path.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi607GGwoS-rewjhehSDQl2I2pUCOkzwAgsAtsnrr8Wl9ngwUH1cOSOqZYKwrAdx4rX71I63wXxzvzJXDXMSftRFJlcFQNXGBZ7vt-6kPrlzoa47PG9tTKACCusUENUjfhmjCqlUw/s1600/P1030442.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi607GGwoS-rewjhehSDQl2I2pUCOkzwAgsAtsnrr8Wl9ngwUH1cOSOqZYKwrAdx4rX71I63wXxzvzJXDXMSftRFJlcFQNXGBZ7vt-6kPrlzoa47PG9tTKACCusUENUjfhmjCqlUw/s640/P1030442.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lycian Way, leaving Olu Deniz</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT2LWS4LnT4pUEVe0lgjrggvwJTPEcNAoQsmnyZksqtOh3ZT99O0x4CnKwK0eS6mleaYQEXeez4jNOuW5ux1RcBSl5pMUN5pRkkMccU00OXGzhH3tQfmsK_1NwzYmMYy1fs8bzmg/s1600/P1030466.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT2LWS4LnT4pUEVe0lgjrggvwJTPEcNAoQsmnyZksqtOh3ZT99O0x4CnKwK0eS6mleaYQEXeez4jNOuW5ux1RcBSl5pMUN5pRkkMccU00OXGzhH3tQfmsK_1NwzYmMYy1fs8bzmg/s400/P1030466.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walking companion</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Body1">
Faralya is set high above the sea and gets the benefit
of cooling breezes (so no mozzies in the room) and is delightfully quiet. The
Faralya Hotel www.ecoyuva.org is owned by Atilla and Caroline, and is run as an
eco-friendly spot, featuring vegetarian food to a high standard and excellent
facilities for visiting yoga groups. A very chilled spot and early morning yoga
was enjoyed in complete solitude.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOm9jrWilTSki0jIbm4FnlsrryeVtP22y2y6a_8nHOoCt72WxL0m2qMZHvL_2g4xbeRxzz_5-iC_6yHzTvwhP02Qlx55MvMfSK8w2R6kntwSF4B-zNf6BiGmQKcfzBSQEjEOKorA/s1600/P1030500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOm9jrWilTSki0jIbm4FnlsrryeVtP22y2y6a_8nHOoCt72WxL0m2qMZHvL_2g4xbeRxzz_5-iC_6yHzTvwhP02Qlx55MvMfSK8w2R6kntwSF4B-zNf6BiGmQKcfzBSQEjEOKorA/s400/P1030500.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yoga hall at the Faralya Hotel</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
The next day was spent getting lost on the faint cliff
top paths below the hotel, and visiting the retreat known as Yuva, associated
with the hotel. My legendary lack of sense of direction led to some interesting
diversions, but also the discovery of some great viewpoints over the 'Butterfly
Valley' deep below Faralya.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_6yut6kpDb_wqNYs8yoK5tP2yHY5fqtJp3A4wpD-nEFVzZ1fM21tiYoiuRXr1K0Oga1pKYUYnlv5UEa5IBO_8SplkrTbA08UhvssiWF9Q5Bpg1pLMGEILa5u4lFUyZSxjOYOFFA/s1600/P1030515.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_6yut6kpDb_wqNYs8yoK5tP2yHY5fqtJp3A4wpD-nEFVzZ1fM21tiYoiuRXr1K0Oga1pKYUYnlv5UEa5IBO_8SplkrTbA08UhvssiWF9Q5Bpg1pLMGEILa5u4lFUyZSxjOYOFFA/s640/P1030515.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Butterfly Valley, near Faralya</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
Between Faralya and Alinca, the next day's walk
involved a long climb up through the massive Kabak Gorge, hot work in the
midday sun, about 26C, but rewarded with exceptional rock scenery accessed from
a good path, well waymarked most of the way.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaEdZw07rPMQHyEtAhxZHCy6q4m3mkH8D-NxnwpBqNtWGKBFlNEWt4rFSHMgURfYtTYw0YnQxwX0BGv_1_QxFQ_hrWJM0mZIusO5qVP131q0_5KUWhq19ziIdBghEL7Oj6o0ZMeA/s1600/P1030551.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaEdZw07rPMQHyEtAhxZHCy6q4m3mkH8D-NxnwpBqNtWGKBFlNEWt4rFSHMgURfYtTYw0YnQxwX0BGv_1_QxFQ_hrWJM0mZIusO5qVP131q0_5KUWhq19ziIdBghEL7Oj6o0ZMeA/s400/P1030551.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kabak Gorge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3xvwWwt3UZfD5yfPcYudgO29_JIfsQXfqIwswdkDKXIE1vUbJF25HYV1s5jkZhZdjvITZ0Pe7vRXMtPQm3YKjRid2kzykjixSUZDIl9WPXFRCEBqafaOmpc1dQxuPb-x-26qSfQ/s1600/P1030557.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3xvwWwt3UZfD5yfPcYudgO29_JIfsQXfqIwswdkDKXIE1vUbJF25HYV1s5jkZhZdjvITZ0Pe7vRXMtPQm3YKjRid2kzykjixSUZDIl9WPXFRCEBqafaOmpc1dQxuPb-x-26qSfQ/s640/P1030557.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Accommodation for the night was in
Patara, just beyond Xanthos ('the tomato capital of Turkey', with thousands of
acres in the surrounding valley covered by greenhouses). Patara is the site of
many ancient ruins, Lycian and Roman in origin, as the town was an important
harbour in history, before it silted up. Only lagoons can be seen now, with a
vast area of ruined buildings including a large Roman amphitheatre. Beyond the
ruins is a long beach, famous for its fine sand and large dunes.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr59RQ1K97IRs5ZKCT_j5qJISRMY55Pmv-YvVG_InIX5yC1iX2-gGQ9QoKX18lYKISwot8vfDnBRbCUh2YnJE4hKWYpuUBGh9wIQGI8MBS2j3Uv-tkTLEo00y-2DVvnH0i42NgoQ/s1600/P1030618.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr59RQ1K97IRs5ZKCT_j5qJISRMY55Pmv-YvVG_InIX5yC1iX2-gGQ9QoKX18lYKISwot8vfDnBRbCUh2YnJE4hKWYpuUBGh9wIQGI8MBS2j3Uv-tkTLEo00y-2DVvnH0i42NgoQ/s400/P1030618.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roman amphitheatre at Patara</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Thankfully, the hotel in Patara had mozzie nets, so a
peaceful night ensued, although I always appreciate the early morning call to
prayer from the local mosque...</div>
<div class="Body1">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
The next day was one of exploration. Using Kate Clow's
guide to the Lycian Way, the route went from Cavdir to <span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 14.0pt;">Ü</span>z<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 14.0pt;">ü</span>ml<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 14.0pt;">ü</span>, not
a particularly long day, but walking very narrow and exposed sections of the
Xanthos Aqueduct. Narrow aqueduct bridges to cross, straddling a narrow water
channel filled with gushing water in one section, and hugging the aqueduct
walls in places, with some big drops below. I'd describe it as a 'sporting
route', but not one for the faint hearted! </div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO8Q-P2kXQRb10ON-5Hku__h7g4Z07q_9gDtEES5daRJ1lz4MbCFGy_uZVGjCb8jaiKJrMSTOLSJ_O0oJ4oM2P-xL14dFjmaVZuwHroZPVvKtzrcn6Lbnr-gpnfDOiSyb2dfMRtA/s1600/P1030595.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO8Q-P2kXQRb10ON-5Hku__h7g4Z07q_9gDtEES5daRJ1lz4MbCFGy_uZVGjCb8jaiKJrMSTOLSJ_O0oJ4oM2P-xL14dFjmaVZuwHroZPVvKtzrcn6Lbnr-gpnfDOiSyb2dfMRtA/s640/P1030595.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Xanthos aqueduct section of the Lycian Way</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Body1">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-nu5FrEOXPwNtT7xt2a-FcKNF7ZzPFFKs8ZO_Y7yKMqt-5XDKauAa-nbzfVhFpbTcQr1oQ6Rod43aVm-8zGwwi8ieMPxZMW3Sy-wZVn1gc8ASgCc5GJw7GfH9n7BafdliiBu56Q/s1600/P1030607.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-nu5FrEOXPwNtT7xt2a-FcKNF7ZzPFFKs8ZO_Y7yKMqt-5XDKauAa-nbzfVhFpbTcQr1oQ6Rod43aVm-8zGwwi8ieMPxZMW3Sy-wZVn1gc8ASgCc5GJw7GfH9n7BafdliiBu56Q/s640/P1030607.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inpinar Spring</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The evening was spent in the
bustling 'adventure capital of Turkey', Ka<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 14.0pt;">ş</span>, a 45 minute car journey from Patara along a
spectacular coastal road. Great company and fine food completed a good day.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
My final day on the Lycian Way was the easy and very
pleasant route from Patara to Akbel, close to my final resting point on the
coast, Kalkan. The route takes you through cool pine forests and numerous olive
groves, eventually reaching the massive wall of the Patara aqueduct affording
great views to the Xanthos Valley in one direction and the turquoise waters of
Kalkan Bay to the east.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnF9WQjNw3Y6Gdw4cvZ2R5hLPuKrveVYyN5qHVB-9ppmxShn8kVAWCQWHSDgxQUVXA0ytUxK_zYYUvkf4Um7JKcwVpelVMsI4kVyIlhBVuGOI5Fq9ox43tO68sUlU5r4Qohr7WoA/s1600/P1030587.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4dCya6PtUS0x8Wc5reU5n3XaG1Ll5sZ3xQHNYG94iBQ6DHIhYjLHM0nIAuI7hWXgg9p82RP00lzEpGMMkaLnznauI4Ck-yvygCH4koBP4ZQ2kJsnjvjI3Xu72wGT_TAk4oxlRpA/s1600/P1030635.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4dCya6PtUS0x8Wc5reU5n3XaG1Ll5sZ3xQHNYG94iBQ6DHIhYjLHM0nIAuI7hWXgg9p82RP00lzEpGMMkaLnznauI4Ck-yvygCH4koBP4ZQ2kJsnjvjI3Xu72wGT_TAk4oxlRpA/s400/P1030635.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the Patara aqueduct</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The path, whilst simple to follow, took me through a
few kilometres of dense maquis, so long trousers were a real boon. My guide
spotted a couple of snakes, one thin silver specimen and a longer black snake,
which had him jumping into the air, but they moved out of his way quicker than
he theirs!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
The final stage of the trip involved a pleasant walk
around the small but thriving harbour of Kalkan, with two restaurants notable
for their food, albeit at London prices: the Aubergine and Trio are both well
worth a visit.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgafJhqaFghKvzKJCBsfPkGf7-clOSa45FT-Asvwb9QfxDB68lloWTsiWMHQMivYfaJ_7GnF9npnD9Pj-8O7YK7zXNkjwyopstZWQWO5lMJgs_FRg4ZIkM6dPyM6rOAmpoLjude1g/s1600/P1030678.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgafJhqaFghKvzKJCBsfPkGf7-clOSa45FT-Asvwb9QfxDB68lloWTsiWMHQMivYfaJ_7GnF9npnD9Pj-8O7YK7zXNkjwyopstZWQWO5lMJgs_FRg4ZIkM6dPyM6rOAmpoLjude1g/s400/P1030678.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kalkan</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Summary</b></div>
<div class="Body1">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
Even 'pre-season', Turkey can be very hot. At the end
of April, the temperature in Kalkan was 30C, and unless the authorities have
started spraying the mosquito breeding areas, there can be a few mozzies to
annoy you at dawn and dusk in some locations. Apparently, the mozzie problem
lessens as the heat really starts to rise from May onwards. May and September
seem to be the preferred time to walk the Lycian Way, as the heat during high
summer would be unbearable, but even in April an early morning start makes for
more comfortable walking (followed by a nice lazy afternoon).<o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhADoh7SVTC6JCbk7lx1OUQNzgnIg9D51Jn_aIBU8-t3Y6Eg5Jn-89j2MWUe95GiN4k6J1p1Cll08NQMIHAW3W63c2Tvku54JYlmEoaSSgBqgAxTzDmP43AzNwTe4cyIrU4LwYfCA/s1600/P1030450.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhADoh7SVTC6JCbk7lx1OUQNzgnIg9D51Jn_aIBU8-t3Y6Eg5Jn-89j2MWUe95GiN4k6J1p1Cll08NQMIHAW3W63c2Tvku54JYlmEoaSSgBqgAxTzDmP43AzNwTe4cyIrU4LwYfCA/s640/P1030450.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wonderful coastal views from the Lycian Way</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Walking the Lycian Way can be very straightforward in
places, especially if you're following routes planned by walking specialists
like <a href="http://www.headwater.com/" target="_blank">Headwater</a>, but I would counsel that the 'definitive' guidebook by Kate
Clow can be a little lacking on detail, and on some sections of the trail a new
government way-marking system has superseded some older waymarks and the paths
are often festooned with a confusing variety of markings - red dots, arrows,
red/yellow marks, red/white marks, and random blue dots and yellow arrows, not
to mention signs for local hotels and bars! But the main Lycian Way sections
stick to a parallel red/white sign convention, and you'd be very unlucky to get
seriously lost. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
The paths themselves can be tractor tracks, narrow
rocky paths, and on some aqueduct sections the water channel itself. Generally
easy walking, with fine views to the coast. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
The local people are very friendly, and almost without
exception you'll be greeted with a friendly wave or nod as you walk through the
small villages. Local dogs can occasionally be troublesome, but on this route there
were no real issues, one well known pesky little dog below Faralya likes to yap
a lot, but soon backs off. I invested in a <i><a href="http://www.dazer.com/dog-deterrent.jsp" target="_blank">Dazar</a>
</i>device, which emits sound at a frequency that only dogs can hear, and on a
couple of occasions used it to distract (successfully) barking dogs on the
route. The other thing to watch out for are beehives. There are many along this
section of the Lycian Way, producing a fine pine honey, but should be given a
wide berth if the owners are smoking them to harvest the honey. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
You'll see tortoise, lizards and squirrels en route.
Birds like blue crows, falcons and bee-eaters add to the interest. Snakes will
be well out of your way before you reach them, and wild boars love to sleep
during the day, so don't expect to see much of them either (except, perhaps, on
a plate!).<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
In all, it was a moderately challenging week in
glorious weather, with good food everywhere and unpretentious hospitality. I'll
be back to Turkey, there were some higher mountains inland, still snow-capped
in April, begging to be climbed...<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnF9WQjNw3Y6Gdw4cvZ2R5hLPuKrveVYyN5qHVB-9ppmxShn8kVAWCQWHSDgxQUVXA0ytUxK_zYYUvkf4Um7JKcwVpelVMsI4kVyIlhBVuGOI5Fq9ox43tO68sUlU5r4Qohr7WoA/s400/P1030587.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="300" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Happy Days ;-)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<!--EndFragment-->Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9888425.post-84817100208252527092013-03-09T16:45:00.004+00:002013-03-09T22:11:16.110+00:00Sierra Subbéticas, Spain - March 2013<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:TargetScreenSize>544x376</o:TargetScreenSize>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-GB</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" Name="Hyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0cm;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:"Times New Roman";}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
<br />
<div class="Body1">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw0SxWWMHvAF_9lnrF0qupSLXUQI8nN2ejHdNm-VpXSjdlEbTHS0euyMSZcnszovECkp22KxIkf3Z4ReSj6jWbZPc0X3hSG_XjZJkwnod8lml6DHgliAkzbZ-eapMVxAkcmTwB1g/s1600/P1030180.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw0SxWWMHvAF_9lnrF0qupSLXUQI8nN2ejHdNm-VpXSjdlEbTHS0euyMSZcnszovECkp22KxIkf3Z4ReSj6jWbZPc0X3hSG_XjZJkwnod8lml6DHgliAkzbZ-eapMVxAkcmTwB1g/s400/P1030180.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Córdoba</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Attempting to escape the gloom of the UK once again, this time I'm exploring the Sierra Subb<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">é</span>ticas, a large area of limestone upland a couple of hours
drive north of Malaga. It offers some good walking with expansive views and
very few people, key criteria in my book!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
The
region is dotted with attractive little towns like Zuheros, Luque and Zagrilla
Alta, with whitewashed architecture set in prominent locations and usually
sporting Moorish fortifications and castles. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlCkNFJzkjQMzvjLB8KjuyadX-obZuzneGRaZJsYWKd0FLqQ_ctHWcw-YaPexiMvEu_sb3QA_WS9Y_4tiUB8jkwhlM71_wmlbGUQCZo-RqJJHgJFl4WyH1yZRxVffqGRpl1hPR6A/s1600/P1030274.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlCkNFJzkjQMzvjLB8KjuyadX-obZuzneGRaZJsYWKd0FLqQ_ctHWcw-YaPexiMvEu_sb3QA_WS9Y_4tiUB8jkwhlM71_wmlbGUQCZo-RqJJHgJFl4WyH1yZRxVffqGRpl1hPR6A/s400/P1030274.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">Bail</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">ó</span><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">n Gorge</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDfeYR0R4-C8zWZE0-qFIlfa10P63XC8Ih9yLDIedm9i-M5ML5yAsxY_PjcIm7ak2djrdGspQFppp7AIVIH9yvJjUIdK3q04baif3lrVC_Rd00WfUGxHBXBti5xvQN83vfDI2iXQ/s1600/P1020846.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDfeYR0R4-C8zWZE0-qFIlfa10P63XC8Ih9yLDIedm9i-M5ML5yAsxY_PjcIm7ak2djrdGspQFppp7AIVIH9yvJjUIdK3q04baif3lrVC_Rd00WfUGxHBXBti5xvQN83vfDI2iXQ/s400/P1020846.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB7iUTdBcvBj5fswQ6Tf0SrMnmFock_P2_ZtEoGriu5fCgX_vnQAA-BDjF0AFwQnCwA69aN0p-ErrQGqfCJ8Y27AuoPFuw75P-gfsZ4SDnzzj-8UlXJAGsibJ2MlNHQkjV1r73mg/s1600/P1030296.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB7iUTdBcvBj5fswQ6Tf0SrMnmFock_P2_ZtEoGriu5fCgX_vnQAA-BDjF0AFwQnCwA69aN0p-ErrQGqfCJ8Y27AuoPFuw75P-gfsZ4SDnzzj-8UlXJAGsibJ2MlNHQkjV1r73mg/s400/P1030296.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zuheros</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPsZvqgHgBjraJCuR9CqqRQFdNA9JyRUdHzwx3zR49pbg82AkUTgBQ6WtrWniCrEpCx_cG1S2yaNAq36-ve6lcNRHazkjeCJjY76mIPXi5ArDdTnXI9T49E0CAjMqZek6iIP9vfw/s1600/P1030038.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPsZvqgHgBjraJCuR9CqqRQFdNA9JyRUdHzwx3zR49pbg82AkUTgBQ6WtrWniCrEpCx_cG1S2yaNAq36-ve6lcNRHazkjeCJjY76mIPXi5ArDdTnXI9T49E0CAjMqZek6iIP9vfw/s400/P1030038.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2RUUecY7he8qaOvu3XgKVxpBLv_jvaeU6yEze65gTiPDKvtIn1lIYeOx3aAWm9Agjlg8fjft0qkTQTRfP9jjlqNN0PvB-YXNIIbF02cOvB2cLKeLE8j9aNwf7GPcBIXYuZbGe3A/s1600/P1030220.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2RUUecY7he8qaOvu3XgKVxpBLv_jvaeU6yEze65gTiPDKvtIn1lIYeOx3aAWm9Agjlg8fjft0qkTQTRfP9jjlqNN0PvB-YXNIIbF02cOvB2cLKeLE8j9aNwf7GPcBIXYuZbGe3A/s640/P1030220.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
<div class="Body1">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
The
walking often involves gorge walking, the gorge walls dotted with caves and a
Mecca for local climbers, and some easy summits like Bramadero Hill above
Zuheros and Monte Abrevia above Do<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">ñ</span>a Mencia, both around
1000-1100m. This is a Parque Naturel, so farming is limited (mainly sheep and
goats), and there are vast swathes of olive and almond trees around. Vultures
and peregrine falcon soar above you in the thermals.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1KgC4lvs_hSkkPu6G2g_qzlh5aOT8rqMnUbVidmTdxMHAbd4Iwo_lYKxHnnQIrssAgOmajR7HMxfoQULVWVcSv4xU3KDTaG7Jy2wwfTDHqpOwqyIqkdYdZy3Bw0-lyhyPHNUcrQ/s1600/P1020945.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1KgC4lvs_hSkkPu6G2g_qzlh5aOT8rqMnUbVidmTdxMHAbd4Iwo_lYKxHnnQIrssAgOmajR7HMxfoQULVWVcSv4xU3KDTaG7Jy2wwfTDHqpOwqyIqkdYdZy3Bw0-lyhyPHNUcrQ/s400/P1020945.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Summit of Monte Abrevia</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAkf4HPt2V0a5jvDXuJIoVp1HJLfRUEJ77g04hDO6OzuG98jXA5USqT4WAA_5s0WNYmR48rV9Vmssa83iSdU6EarhJAhST_X-2Ha3XCN2UAWW1E0XtpD__z-POzWKwmLCqUhrkwg/s1600/P1030028.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAkf4HPt2V0a5jvDXuJIoVp1HJLfRUEJ77g04hDO6OzuG98jXA5USqT4WAA_5s0WNYmR48rV9Vmssa83iSdU6EarhJAhST_X-2Ha3XCN2UAWW1E0XtpD__z-POzWKwmLCqUhrkwg/s640/P1030028.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zuheros through the cleft of the <span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">Bail</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">ó</span><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">n Gorge</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZI-gojeunH2_ajphUlfyr35OFC2jSdJ_70VtZvZVmVyOPxO6WwfUR2Kvm2JfOA7KPzUj2MHU2r5FI0BJo9l6eczImEjRmMiW_sma-WgEXvegpNXEH4Vcn0z_FvCJZqakE3tn41w/s1600/P1020828.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZI-gojeunH2_ajphUlfyr35OFC2jSdJ_70VtZvZVmVyOPxO6WwfUR2Kvm2JfOA7KPzUj2MHU2r5FI0BJo9l6eczImEjRmMiW_sma-WgEXvegpNXEH4Vcn0z_FvCJZqakE3tn41w/s400/P1020828.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Summit of Bramadero Hill</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAnqZVD2NThPpJPVr9msGTO86XgQ61dVX5QYTFjY3CCFwJSjtpGEu9gqL-GJp-ldKjeNCk8WhEu7i-L3-JjVC1qmR2422k9Q72PhiOvCE3FBnMKAw1KZjmu2xpTfBzn-RPBgs0ZQ/s1600/P1020926.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAnqZVD2NThPpJPVr9msGTO86XgQ61dVX5QYTFjY3CCFwJSjtpGEu9gqL-GJp-ldKjeNCk8WhEu7i-L3-JjVC1qmR2422k9Q72PhiOvCE3FBnMKAw1KZjmu2xpTfBzn-RPBgs0ZQ/s400/P1020926.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Above Zagrilla Alta</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1rnND9BSjUYCb8btfb9OV3WrIU0gwCOON4ANo24zOVOikWR1f89b-41iuYDa8wHzPjiveL4rWJdmvpSSOOQz1O8Le3sEUQzPhjhG0ujb1dvEr6jVxj47cd9LKWh6ATz-XA7ySdQ/s1600/P1030240.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1rnND9BSjUYCb8btfb9OV3WrIU0gwCOON4ANo24zOVOikWR1f89b-41iuYDa8wHzPjiveL4rWJdmvpSSOOQz1O8Le3sEUQzPhjhG0ujb1dvEr6jVxj47cd9LKWh6ATz-XA7ySdQ/s400/P1030240.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Luque</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
For
easier walks there's the Via Verde, nicely surfaced paths for walkers and
cyclists, which follow the old defunct railway routes in the region. Very
quiet, apart from birdsong, and they take you through olive groves, across
viaducts, and give sweeping views across the rolling rural landscapes.</div>
<div class="Body1">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
Although
I'm early in the year, it's a botanists paradise around here too, although this
is all beyond my knowledge, my own predisposition being to gravel and bark
everything and dose borders at home with industrial quantities of weed
killer. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9b8Ci5rvDJByCM727q7BLjhcNWk8jG3U085PDg3aLpbXR6KhqXhMBpou_w1U5oWph2j8G08HPnUrDxeYGozuL4hjWkHn8U160yhu_ukdd5ZHChFKd9I3wt9b7vJAXikF43AcZXA/s1600/P1020903.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9b8Ci5rvDJByCM727q7BLjhcNWk8jG3U085PDg3aLpbXR6KhqXhMBpou_w1U5oWph2j8G08HPnUrDxeYGozuL4hjWkHn8U160yhu_ukdd5ZHChFKd9I3wt9b7vJAXikF43AcZXA/s400/P1020903.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fine walking in the Sierra Subbéticas</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
Once
again I've travelled with <a href="http://www.headwater.com/">Headwater</a>, a
good little walking company who seek out characterful hotels in good spots, and
supply decent walking notes. This time I'm staying in the Hotel Zuheyra in
Zuheros, providing simple rooms with great views, and wonderful food and
hospitality. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGxJYhYha4n0OkoYEoroM-iNW91ETL1hbsoxVGLAasKcaOUgErf0EAjtsbmOtxEkqRuhgwYRpIQ74aEKPybA5abFDGMjUEGaZfbKIBVGNiUoLH04tO6UTOcuCD-kw0h5OaaiM1xA/s1600/P1030030.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGxJYhYha4n0OkoYEoroM-iNW91ETL1hbsoxVGLAasKcaOUgErf0EAjtsbmOtxEkqRuhgwYRpIQ74aEKPybA5abFDGMjUEGaZfbKIBVGNiUoLH04tO6UTOcuCD-kw0h5OaaiM1xA/s400/P1030030.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zuheros</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEAUkPbEJlQ1kMDopZ5UAWYpeXYhWClj8cxxZjtTeuNmkZPnEX9ZyOaD2dIsforTwOdXFX6cSPzIKmS_Gu9E1c2x6qwAfz0ZNfOHCMd2ar7vWh8A03uTgG2n5mBEU04aBkNJxSFg/s1600/P1030211.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEAUkPbEJlQ1kMDopZ5UAWYpeXYhWClj8cxxZjtTeuNmkZPnEX9ZyOaD2dIsforTwOdXFX6cSPzIKmS_Gu9E1c2x6qwAfz0ZNfOHCMd2ar7vWh8A03uTgG2n5mBEU04aBkNJxSFg/s640/P1030211.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:TargetScreenSize>544x376</o:TargetScreenSize>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0cm;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-ansi-language:EN-US;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
<br />
<div class="Body1">
Zuheros
itself is an interesting little town, nestling at the foot of the Bail<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">ó</span>n gorge and with a spectacular 9th century Moorish castle
dominating the valleys below. Great views from the turrets at the top. And 4km
up a narrow mountain road with great exposure, there's the 'Cave of the Bats',
Cueva de los Murci<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">é</span>lagos. Not recommended for
those with claustrophobia or a dislike of steep steps, this is definitely worth
a visit. Lighting is sympathetic and the stalagmite - stalactite formations are
awesome, especially in what they call the 'Organ Room'. You start at 980m, so
fine views from the cave entrance and then clamber down and up about 700 steps,
some a little steep, and care is required on stretches where the roof is
dripping, but there's steel guide rails to protect you.</div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKKXK75TEVLHTAEi_sQ6BXqb-V27MsTGjUj4fZL0yl7zib7n-q1_veLVxBkcx__hIgaEiD60orbolMofw28Tnutc5TGEj13wvHJ_G-AtYfVBSTI2XBlP-V8HsSLAgj00oJYkCziA/s1600/P1030168.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKKXK75TEVLHTAEi_sQ6BXqb-V27MsTGjUj4fZL0yl7zib7n-q1_veLVxBkcx__hIgaEiD60orbolMofw28Tnutc5TGEj13wvHJ_G-AtYfVBSTI2XBlP-V8HsSLAgj00oJYkCziA/s400/P1030168.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Córdoba</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Body1">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcH9R2xSeEzG3xJSljWsG-5Txi2WY6rabF7rVDmRSdn9xk1EUK0jh3dE6LCwhCw-qx7HiEHcpZ8h9oXo67wd88VGQ8fS9m6FvYtKyvg88VI3c_3F_xj1T5_vz5uO8w-hhAoZNLMg/s1600/P1030090.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcH9R2xSeEzG3xJSljWsG-5Txi2WY6rabF7rVDmRSdn9xk1EUK0jh3dE6LCwhCw-qx7HiEHcpZ8h9oXo67wd88VGQ8fS9m6FvYtKyvg88VI3c_3F_xj1T5_vz5uO8w-hhAoZNLMg/s640/P1030090.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
Córdoba is an hour's drive to the northwest, and this is an
amazing little city, well worth a visit. Founded by the Romans on the highest
navigable point on the Rio Guadalquivir, subsequently invaded by the Moors in
711, then returned to Christianity in 1236, this city is steeped in
well-preserved history. There's also a substantial Jewish quarter.</div>
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
The Moors
built the huge mosque, the Mezquita, but when the Christians re-established
control, they created a cathedral within the mosque rather that demolish
it...it has to be seen to be believed...even the minaret is embedded in the
tower of the cathedral.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ESOa90uVd6KO8vHKSQs4tJnaQZ83kjGNK3necuEZPZDOLgpPjbZz_ThyISsOrlN8ubeYevvZSpbreGY-Old0pPDH3eZ8kGSWstdtfTGEohr9IIxLqbmEPpE0N6nmMcV3M8VE-w/s1600/P1030107.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ESOa90uVd6KO8vHKSQs4tJnaQZ83kjGNK3necuEZPZDOLgpPjbZz_ThyISsOrlN8ubeYevvZSpbreGY-Old0pPDH3eZ8kGSWstdtfTGEohr9IIxLqbmEPpE0N6nmMcV3M8VE-w/s640/P1030107.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside the Mezquita in Córdoba </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It's an
easy city to cover in a day, and best approached from the east across the
Puenta Romano, the original Roman bridge, guarded by the nicely restored Torre
de la Calahorra at the eastern end. The river was in spate during my visit,
with fallen trees racing underneath the bridge in the swollen waters.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
There are
some other interesting features, including a large Roman temple, and the best
place to find quality food is in the Jewish quarter, La Juderia. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
The drive
to and from Zuheros was interesting too. A great flock of kites soaring over
the rolling chalk hills around Santa Cruz, and, surprisingly a <i>Camino de Santiago </i>sign marking the long
south to north variant of the famous pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela
as it passes through Castro del Rio. <span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: #0400; mso-bidi-language: X-NONE; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: #0400;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9888425.post-11939008693037375252013-02-24T16:16:00.000+00:002013-02-25T06:02:55.107+00:00Burma (Myanmar)<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:TargetScreenSize>544x376</o:TargetScreenSize>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0cm;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-ansi-language:EN-US;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
<br />
<div class="Body1">
I
travelled with <a href="http://www.exodus.co.uk/" target="_blank">Exodus</a> on their <i>Discover
Burma </i>tour.</div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<b><span lang="EN-US">Summary</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></b><br />
<b><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></b>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2z5EgY8iwRahjBiFdceGZTUkURBDGG4EpYwwtup510u1UAvjiR7Zt0MO8lOAbsiOIdqr2Wny109nR9yR07zVg2opCQPq8NVfOt1CrRCW6i6zuJooblfTe3fMhb83RSDaYxpRHiQ/s1600/P1020736.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2z5EgY8iwRahjBiFdceGZTUkURBDGG4EpYwwtup510u1UAvjiR7Zt0MO8lOAbsiOIdqr2Wny109nR9yR07zVg2opCQPq8NVfOt1CrRCW6i6zuJooblfTe3fMhb83RSDaYxpRHiQ/s400/P1020736.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Inthein</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Burma's
triumph is its people. Having weathered a shockingly unstable and at times
ruthless history, the people of Burma have emerged with an all-pervading
cheerfulness and enduring pragmatism. Tourists are a relative novelty in this
vast country, yet a smile will greet you everywhere you go, together with a
genuine interest in you rather than your wallet.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">In
the early part of the year Burma is hot and dusty, and you certainly wouldn't want
to travel there in the furnace-like climate of late spring or the mosquito
ridden wet season of high summer, but it's a beautiful land, with simple rural
existence on the hills and plains beyond the cities, punctuated by some of the
most iconic sights on the planet.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">As
usual, Burma is another country on the cusp of a tourist boom, not just from
well-heeled Westerners but for the bulging middle class of nearby China and
India. And here's the key issue. The tourist infrastructure is not yet ready.
Hotel capacity is tight. There is no systematic management of tourist numbers
in the honeypots of Bagan, Mandalay and Inle Lake. Domestic air terminals are
generally small. So, if you fancy Burma as a future destination use a good tour
operator with clout and certainly not one with links to the existing military
junta.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Of
course, a cloud remains over Burma's future, with democratic elections
scheduled for 2015, which will, hopefully, see transition from the military
regime which has prevailed here since the 1950's. As I write this in 2013, Aung
San Suu Kyi is now free and doing a sterling job of reinvigorating
international commitment to the freedom of the Burmese people, but history has
clearly shown that unless a solid institutional infrastructure can be put in place,
there has always been a tendency for vested interest and factionalism to stop
democracy in its tracks. The Burmese people are holding their breath. But
police and military forces were hardly visible during the two weeks spent in
the country, although there are still no-go zones given the continuing civil
war with some of the ethnic minorities in many of the peripheral regions.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">In
the meantime Burma deserves its place as one of the hottest travel destinations
of the moment, a largely Theravada Buddhist nation with a rich and complex
heritage. It's also a good introduction to Asia for perhaps a first timer, its
gentle nature and lack of rampant commercialism a real asset.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<b><span lang="EN-US">Tour Notes</span></b><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">First
impressions? Good enough, after about 15 hours on two flights, the overnight
into Kuala Lumpur and a two hour hop
back north to Yangon, the jaded body and mind needed a warm welcome. And that's
what we got.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
modern airport, quickly off the aircraft and efficiently processed by friendly
immigration staff, we were soon in the hands of our irrepressible guide Nay
linn Tun. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
hotel was relatively basic but with air con that worked, who cares? Nothing
planned on today's itinerary, so this called for a quick independent tour of
Yangon in the afternoon. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
spot of lunch, with the locally brewed Myanmar beer (5% abv, dry finish)
appreciated. Then into a cab, having negotiated the quoted fare down by about a
third, to visit a place which has featured a lot in recent history, the home of
Aung San Suu Kyi, 54 University Avenue Road, just south of Inya Lake. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk7aFS9FUuBhN9wZrKbBGmmo2JhQpHTmZpsV1lwODB8sCIHji4OR_mbTTsYrB-v2H1lgX9m97pdTCJzRqMEntDqNPnG_mSZIVPbcJG10o6aVYDoMzlcey9mnz3j2EOzyOJdlBcRw/s1600/P1020798.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk7aFS9FUuBhN9wZrKbBGmmo2JhQpHTmZpsV1lwODB8sCIHji4OR_mbTTsYrB-v2H1lgX9m97pdTCJzRqMEntDqNPnG_mSZIVPbcJG10o6aVYDoMzlcey9mnz3j2EOzyOJdlBcRw/s640/P1020798.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
<br />
<span lang="EN-US">Really
not much to see there, as it's now a security fenced compound, and HQ of the
NLD party, the house in which she spent many years under house arrest hardly
visible. But, hey ho, this is a historic spot, and hopefully we're now seeing
the proper start of the long haul to full parliamentary democracy. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Then
on to see a huge reclining Buddha at Chaukhtatgi Paya, a great spectacle housed in a large building akin to an aircraft hangar. This figure is styled in the
tradition of the Theravada Buddhism that dominates this part of the world. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhABMRKeUXFStqVhJ_YN9dSTPHvGtE5KC06nkS06HXztT8BI17dggB9Om1en_WMwUXXvxpFh-pJ2qA5IStXY0NjoSCvSfVuyUta0KsVRVCM4QicVqA0XX1gkqkC0UO4WXRM8kCHGw/s1600/P1010364.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhABMRKeUXFStqVhJ_YN9dSTPHvGtE5KC06nkS06HXztT8BI17dggB9Om1en_WMwUXXvxpFh-pJ2qA5IStXY0NjoSCvSfVuyUta0KsVRVCM4QicVqA0XX1gkqkC0UO4WXRM8kCHGw/s640/P1010364.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Chaukhtatgi Paya, Yangon</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik5RZ2wZJCauiW7TC1yUL0ISabEWkXYOBlTtR3Tp1mVROVS8Nmfk1XMOKPnzRazGvz6Ri3-0INUkLURW4LbbF-7Xyqu33l2ysszm7x0zdfvxLxYcdug3kZhhB3rTR2fq1s_DbUfg/s1600/P1010359.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik5RZ2wZJCauiW7TC1yUL0ISabEWkXYOBlTtR3Tp1mVROVS8Nmfk1XMOKPnzRazGvz6Ri3-0INUkLURW4LbbF-7Xyqu33l2ysszm7x0zdfvxLxYcdug3kZhhB3rTR2fq1s_DbUfg/s400/P1010359.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span lang="EN-US">There's a large meditation centre adjoining this site, but, alas, no time to
'sit' on this occasion. One more temple to see, the nearby Ngahtatgyi Paya,
this time featuring a large sitting Buddha, set in a marvellous carved wooden
backdrop. No westerners seen here, but plenty of monks and nuns paying homage.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
cab brought me back along the east side of the Kandawgyi Lake, very
commercialised and busy with people,
some of whom seemed to be engaged in festivities for the Chinese New Year, with
drums banging away and the odd dancing dragon spotted. Across the water to the
north is a rather garish reconstruction of a Royal Barge, bedecked in gold, and
now serving as a restaurant. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">It
was a weary body that re-entered the hotel late afternoon, the hot sultry
weather, about 30C, having taken its toll. A short rest, disturbed by what I
took to be an earth tremor which had my bed 'rolling' a little (or my
anti-malarials were making me hallucinate!), then the group briefing before a
pleasant dinner at an outdoor restaurant nearby.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<b><span lang="EN-US">Day 2</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
walking tour of downtown Yangon this morning. The folks on the street are
amazingly friendly, some stopping you to ask where you've come from, where you're
heading, etc. without them then trying to sell ou something! Very little hassle
on the streets, a few (very polite) kids hawking postcards, but a warm welcome
everywhere. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
first real experience was walking through the open air market on 26th St., a
truly amazing cacophony of sounds, smells and sights: live catfish, chickens
slaughtered fresh for the table, caged sparrows to buy (then release, in order
to gain 'merit'...apparently they then choose to fly back and re-enter
captivity once more), fruit and vegetables that you've never seen before...and
a real melting pot of locals, from fully clad Muslim women, darker skinned folk
with ancestry probably of southern Indian stock, to the fairer skinned Burmans,
many sporting the dried creamy yellow paste, <i>thanakha, </i>on their faces which is ubiquitous in these parts, mainly
for the ladies but also adopted by younger males too. Most men continue to wear
the traditional longyi, a sarong - very sensible in this tropical climate. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">And
red stains on the paving throughout, the residue of chewed betel nut and
tobacco which renders many a mouth and teeth an unattractive red colour. Local
fresh water vendors, who pour the water over a shard of ice and then through a
muslin filter, and sellers hawking betel nuts and cigarettes sold singly, were
on every corner.</span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj73z1kpfZpqXJZvEKU3unMaGClXwCiGNQpDQqG2vqLYSZqSouzNQqrEvsptnEsa-86Z5w64i2hcjt01pqiqrLCWM0tTmEMJn9j0x1sUNThXyD13ktoEJNQDqWkr5mMK-aVFZJkfg/s1600/P1010477.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj73z1kpfZpqXJZvEKU3unMaGClXwCiGNQpDQqG2vqLYSZqSouzNQqrEvsptnEsa-86Z5w64i2hcjt01pqiqrLCWM0tTmEMJn9j0x1sUNThXyD13ktoEJNQDqWkr5mMK-aVFZJkfg/s400/P1010477.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
passed the Hindu <i>Sri Kali </i>temple, the
large golden bell shaped zedi called Sule Paya opposite the colonial
architecture of City Hall, and the imposing Immanuel Baptist Church. A tea
stop, sat on little kiddie plastic chairs opposite the obelisk marking
independence from British colonial rule (which ended in 1948), then down past
the imposing offices of the Inland Water
Transport and the Myanmar Water Authority. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
quick look at the Yangon River then back up through the busy streets, crossing
the wide east-west boulevards (taking your life into your own hands crossing
these!), then an eventual escape from the midday heat with a cold beer and
steamed pork on vermicelli. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">After
a good rest from the oppressive heat of the early afternoon, we visited the
Karaweik (the golden boat mentioned above) on the east side of Kandawgyi Lake,
enjoying the views across the Shwedagon Paya, apparently the most sacred of
Buddhist sites for the Myanmar people.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmqHQ4irlHmHy_xQdoGC_ksuLQoSsEzdqywDc2LedOgCy0So5AXHQPiHF-dSx6LzX0DHymPnbGKoMSK0ewIaTX0oVnZOFbJI3J6JHsi3l128jri830xSZHaZrd4hA2AhxnJVpiRA/s1600/P1010494.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmqHQ4irlHmHy_xQdoGC_ksuLQoSsEzdqywDc2LedOgCy0So5AXHQPiHF-dSx6LzX0DHymPnbGKoMSK0ewIaTX0oVnZOFbJI3J6JHsi3l128jri830xSZHaZrd4hA2AhxnJVpiRA/s400/P1010494.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgef43McyuKpotdLh_NppQEcnN8ssWUNYaWTYJUcSBWdTCmnyhJwEf0MZCvw7duSaslPO41V97-7owR2bcW8pKvFsguitzCMK-ldDM6USRSjAnEi9GCsKeK5rNMDmQ7RDXHXkL3MQ/s1600/P1010508.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgef43McyuKpotdLh_NppQEcnN8ssWUNYaWTYJUcSBWdTCmnyhJwEf0MZCvw7duSaslPO41V97-7owR2bcW8pKvFsguitzCMK-ldDM6USRSjAnEi9GCsKeK5rNMDmQ7RDXHXkL3MQ/s400/P1010508.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDars9hTwrfb21y1bV5c2DcAm72wlgRPGQBufQ_aUZdTyZveSkE70cXVAmi5Nl2abYk_92lSqKNrf-3hqsNEQzgQSbh4ZMDawEud13BD3LboCVmHReCQXCYc11LmZNE1vyvMZBJA/s1600/P1010524.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDars9hTwrfb21y1bV5c2DcAm72wlgRPGQBufQ_aUZdTyZveSkE70cXVAmi5Nl2abYk_92lSqKNrf-3hqsNEQzgQSbh4ZMDawEud13BD3LboCVmHReCQXCYc11LmZNE1vyvMZBJA/s400/P1010524.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Shwedagon Paya</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">This
was to be our next stop, and a real highlight of any visit to Burma. Entering
up the hundred or so steps of the East Gate, we were swiftly up to the base of
the huge golden dome of this immense zedi (stupa). Warmly lit by the dying sun,
then spotlighted as darkness fell, we circumnabulated this historic monument,
said to house hairs from </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Śā</span><span lang="EN-US">kyamuni Buddha. And
it really is gold, apparently 90 tonnes of gold plate the structure and the
uppermost vane is bedecked in jewels, the orb tipped with a 76 carat diamond
some 100m above the base.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Around
the base of the dome are many other smaller zedi, planetary posts, statues,
temples and shrines. It has been rebuilt on numerous occasions, usually
following earthquakes that afflict this region. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Of
course, we didn't have it to ourselves, many locals circulating with us, monks,
nuns and a smattering of tourists. Many locals were prostrating themselves to
various Buddhas in the many raised pavilions, and others were deeply engaged in
prayer. A friendly, peaceful atmosphere pervaded, the quiet hum of awe and
reverence. Impressive all round. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Dinner
was enjoyable, many in the group opting for the buttered fish curry, and of
course, a few Myanmar beers. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<b><span lang="EN-US">Day 3</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
very early start to get a domestic flight to Bagan, south west of Mandalay. A one
hour flight on Air KBZ tracked the mighty Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River 430
miles northward, with the flatlands of the valley bounded by the higher ground
of Rakhaing and Chin States to the west. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Everything
seemed very easy going on this journey, busy domestic terminals at either end
but none of the usual chaos and cacophony that you'd usually find in places
like India and Nepal.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
found our comfortable hotel, Yar Kinn Tha in Nyaung U (just north of Old
Bagan), and proceeded to explore the local Mani-Sithu market, admiring locally
produced lacquerware. I resisted the temptation to buy a longyi, despite the
goading of my fellow travellers, before repairing to a nice spot over the sand
banks of the Ayeyarwaddy River for a cooling beer.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">One
big contrast here with Yangon. Lots of bicycles and motorbikes all of a sudden.
Apparently one of the Burmese generals had an altercation with a two-wheeled
vehicle sometime in recent history, and all two wheel modes of transport
including pedal cycles are banned from the streets of Yangon. Now there's
power...</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">As
usual in Burma, from noon to about 1600 it's the norm to take time out to
escape the oppressive heat that builds at this time.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnC_h1z4cYU_p1oPwRyNpuUiMdDu3w59sjx2u2LGrg5kpJ-GRTSH9iihrzYhGcD9jf4klRhip8_qYj_fdK8qu_dOSMq6gerrr9OeuwZ8d2rnw1GKNuVCS-puMVk2Oc0pkNeP1AAw/s1600/P1010570.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnC_h1z4cYU_p1oPwRyNpuUiMdDu3w59sjx2u2LGrg5kpJ-GRTSH9iihrzYhGcD9jf4klRhip8_qYj_fdK8qu_dOSMq6gerrr9OeuwZ8d2rnw1GKNuVCS-puMVk2Oc0pkNeP1AAw/s400/P1010570.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Shwezigon Paya, near Bagan</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgtHXjyGpngD7AcWGI3BKMTIT_kdrgQNNKwTvUwbk0LEMjobrma83TfwO0u8nKTZeYMF-0y_UlrI5QexeS7rz1rAMsxr1I9msO4qOnjl_MndGXOq05DtWE3BxOiJ3f0wGsATcwbg/s1600/P1010563.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgtHXjyGpngD7AcWGI3BKMTIT_kdrgQNNKwTvUwbk0LEMjobrma83TfwO0u8nKTZeYMF-0y_UlrI5QexeS7rz1rAMsxr1I9msO4qOnjl_MndGXOq05DtWE3BxOiJ3f0wGsATcwbg/s400/P1010563.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Late
afternoon, we started the first of the visits to the famous temple fields of Bagan,
the first of note being the Shwezigon Paya. Between the 11th and 13th
centuries, Burma's kings constructed some 4,000 Buddhist temples in this area,
marking the transition from Hindu and Mah</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">ā</span><span lang="EN-US">y</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">ā</span><span lang="EN-US">na Buddhism to the now
predominant Theravada Buddhism, initiated under King Anawrahta. Shwezigon is
considered a prototype for all later stupas in Myanmar and is linked to the
worship of 37 <i>nat, </i>spirit beings
worshipped by </span>Burmans
since before the arrival of Buddhism, a tradition that continues in a
complimentary way to Buddhism today. It was another iconic spot, thankfully
empty of other tourists and with a spectacular 'mackerel sky' which gave a
wonderful backdrop to yet more images of golden zedi. Shwezigon is another huge
construction, gold plated at the top and surrounded by shrines housing large
bronze standing Buddhas.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNdFa3JmIOZwisdEehbyVI2Cw28NlQrdf5Md_BYPl6eh_G7sU3ldtwZhjtIpvcYSJPEhHIkftAVXL9oXbTuGh-RlBsJvNfbcPlpgVpSUfF49RdM4uWDQwpZ026srkQuIoUPuEr2A/s1600/P1010560.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNdFa3JmIOZwisdEehbyVI2Cw28NlQrdf5Md_BYPl6eh_G7sU3ldtwZhjtIpvcYSJPEhHIkftAVXL9oXbTuGh-RlBsJvNfbcPlpgVpSUfF49RdM4uWDQwpZ026srkQuIoUPuEr2A/s400/P1010560.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'Nats'</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The nat site is in a locked compound, but we gained
entry to this, the main figure being the stone image of Thagyamin, king of the
nats and modelled on the Indian god Indra. An atmospheric spot.</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Dinner
at the 'Aroma 2' Indian restaurant, good atmosphere and excellent thali.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<b><span lang="EN-US">Day 4</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Up
early again, this time to join a hot air balloon flight across the Bagan
temples at sunrise. This is said to be one of the most iconic balloon flights
that you can do on Earth, and it certainly lived up to expectations. But be
warned. Every day in the dry season, six balloons are available, each
carrying a maximum of sixteen people plus pilot. That is a fraction of the
demand that exists for this service, and I suspect that a lot of 'bumping' goes
on as various operators pull favours with the balloon company. You prepay for
the flight, </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">£</span><span lang="EN-US">200 for 45 minutes
(2013), and there's a full refund if you don't get past the waiting list or if
there's unsuitable weather. So book really early, hassle your tour company and
their local operator to make sure you get a chance of a flight. It's
disappointment for many I'm sorry to say, and that simply boils down to supply
and demand.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN0byWoflfVf7ABtxirEub3x6jyYnuTjmDxqKv6FcWENSDWJQ8VZizvyT2ehm-plOP5w7ZyO7snH39vYPJdoEGxGRZKu5K7SLevqKACYghSh-UL5F3n6zDmflmAlr95rBLc3o8Aw/s1600/P1010609.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN0byWoflfVf7ABtxirEub3x6jyYnuTjmDxqKv6FcWENSDWJQ8VZizvyT2ehm-plOP5w7ZyO7snH39vYPJdoEGxGRZKu5K7SLevqKACYghSh-UL5F3n6zDmflmAlr95rBLc3o8Aw/s640/P1010609.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">They're
a professionally run bunch, with English pilots. They transfer you to the
launch site, very close to Shwezigon Paya, in 70 year old buses (a great
touch), caffeinate you during a short briefing, and then you stand and enjoy
the spectacle of the balloons being inflated before jumping in and gently
rising into the air. Sixteen in a basket sounds a lot, but there's four roomy
compartments of four, so get in last for a corner position which gives the best
access for photography and it's the furthest point away from the heat and roar
of the gas burners.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Immediately
you are in another world. Instant goosebumps. And within a minute or so you're
hanging above the golden dome of Shwezigon Paya, adjacent to the meandering
Ayerarwady River and the fisherman and their bamboo huts below. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqAQfmXOJXu2R5zUnN1xiHMtUicEa18XoZxPU0gLfDkUY91MaVCOhBdF9l-OSX-Zf7X-g3NAs0REWsLLuUqH8MUVT08SE0_i-wgGjOcIl7CB79OHrX-NIK6Y5h5q8vDQkKqOu2pA/s1600/P1010617.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqAQfmXOJXu2R5zUnN1xiHMtUicEa18XoZxPU0gLfDkUY91MaVCOhBdF9l-OSX-Zf7X-g3NAs0REWsLLuUqH8MUVT08SE0_i-wgGjOcIl7CB79OHrX-NIK6Y5h5q8vDQkKqOu2pA/s400/P1010617.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYylZ-xxScMWwNXaT8nGFkoCZ3pOO3uMbOV2Y_U1k4mu6UXj3GUhqsbRlQc3sAecNk5IqUi-UkYKDpyccXu1KGRFQ6zg9-XSXu30PrUH1lPEDVLqcSGJyNABaAyZ9b91Jbc8d8SQ/s1600/IMG_6454.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYylZ-xxScMWwNXaT8nGFkoCZ3pOO3uMbOV2Y_U1k4mu6UXj3GUhqsbRlQc3sAecNk5IqUi-UkYKDpyccXu1KGRFQ6zg9-XSXu30PrUH1lPEDVLqcSGJyNABaAyZ9b91Jbc8d8SQ/s400/IMG_6454.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQfj51_59ImK9_rs2Ce7KwkWYuKEl2CfgTU6-LWbwMMNFC0iX1_i7S5bP1owGCGT8iNSs7azORxR61mniA2REjWfGXmF0ioi56qge2aK2GS4xauUWProRUedkth7FBJgZA4crUaQ/s1600/IMGP2273.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQfj51_59ImK9_rs2Ce7KwkWYuKEl2CfgTU6-LWbwMMNFC0iX1_i7S5bP1owGCGT8iNSs7azORxR61mniA2REjWfGXmF0ioi56qge2aK2GS4xauUWProRUedkth7FBJgZA4crUaQ/s400/IMGP2273.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHLh-YY-v9SuEnFWNn4W-bplf69QWXRC6dIh1XNhmdcV12FDUZV33cBpneL3na3MHJC0O50Bnw0IX44r1BXfEY6DYYkvb_Ii6mpNyU2m2lZiOxU_wvrQ-N_YXbjKItCuD5FT4hKw/s1600/IMG_6465.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHLh-YY-v9SuEnFWNn4W-bplf69QWXRC6dIh1XNhmdcV12FDUZV33cBpneL3na3MHJC0O50Bnw0IX44r1BXfEY6DYYkvb_Ii6mpNyU2m2lZiOxU_wvrQ-N_YXbjKItCuD5FT4hKw/s400/IMG_6465.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwe-XnUcPASJVLNKmWdD_45SyyeJ53r5EbPLsCjH_NQ-lWoe31hhZLr_qsuoJAHpz6e0E_uGEYk8BVW-8f4Xwx8LYuGiadBU3aZY4GxjcUzlpwLywllyn5vvPlpX8g3GSWhwjbEQ/s1600/IMG_6509.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwe-XnUcPASJVLNKmWdD_45SyyeJ53r5EbPLsCjH_NQ-lWoe31hhZLr_qsuoJAHpz6e0E_uGEYk8BVW-8f4Xwx8LYuGiadBU3aZY4GxjcUzlpwLywllyn5vvPlpX8g3GSWhwjbEQ/s400/IMG_6509.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ballooning over Bagan</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
sun is just coming up, a red ball just above the horizon. Early morning mists
sliver in the shallow creeks feeding the main river. And then the wonder that
is Bagan unfolds beneath you. Temple upon temple far into the distance, bounded
by the river to the north and west, and the stark silhouette of Mount Popa, an
extinct volcano, just to the south. The light subtley changes, a red hue
forming on the brickwork of the hundreds of zedi (stupas) below you. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Of
course, the wind determines where you end up and land with a gentle bump, and
our pilot Graham ensured we saw the key zedi from a variety of elevations,
probably peaking at around 600 feet. The other balloons drifted around us, but
the space was ours, and it was right to park the cameras for a while and commit
this splendid scene to our memory banks. Just awesome.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">All
the balloons landed in seperate locations and the ancient bus duly arrived to
collect us, delivering pink champagne to celebrate the flight and a light
breakfast. If you can, it's a 'must do'. One of those great experiences in
life.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">I
rejoined the group (late, humble apologies proferred, etc.) and headed off to
explore the temples and stupas on foot.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">On
the ground, Bagan has a very different feel but the quantum of structures
appears in a different way. Driving along some tarmac and then sandy tracks,
you can see them in all directions, some 'refurbished' with the original white
lime coating, but mostly eroded back to the core brick and stone structure, and
the more significant ones sporting golden domes as well.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOlcWgaREIrudmud2KJ2kkeGaZO43X-vL6XoxUGHRZOhL89kXuxEojamhZb-yN-hZZHApbXeAlmXt81lSWBgV_Xc6wT4H7plNrg_7eAXh8AJBqmcP6fZfobkuobmEhCxbJEFcDyg/s1600/P1010649.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOlcWgaREIrudmud2KJ2kkeGaZO43X-vL6XoxUGHRZOhL89kXuxEojamhZb-yN-hZZHApbXeAlmXt81lSWBgV_Xc6wT4H7plNrg_7eAXh8AJBqmcP6fZfobkuobmEhCxbJEFcDyg/s400/P1010649.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx2y1W8xHbN9qzN1fBIR6872s6fdFj8ao7IiJjy21ujSya40gEi8Z7F6LC5qZQiwExSKNKdFkfccyQOEAJEqxs616i4T18cWsV0Z-4s7rFNDIg20doaJ0cBEAfqP7uuTreC9-8MQ/s1600/P1010683.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx2y1W8xHbN9qzN1fBIR6872s6fdFj8ao7IiJjy21ujSya40gEi8Z7F6LC5qZQiwExSKNKdFkfccyQOEAJEqxs616i4T18cWsV0Z-4s7rFNDIg20doaJ0cBEAfqP7uuTreC9-8MQ/s640/P1010683.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiskrMOYUtH5Qpgu3Z-8lQew4ivwGDespaH15mFChuWiJnccNUTjbX0mAI5fXUAN4p3dkxn0JXX5svYIBRJy8X3BcFWle-odSWdGhnWGLKy4bAr_NkGsH2P2C4eAisqs1rqndnbOg/s1600/P1010674.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiskrMOYUtH5Qpgu3Z-8lQew4ivwGDespaH15mFChuWiJnccNUTjbX0mAI5fXUAN4p3dkxn0JXX5svYIBRJy8X3BcFWle-odSWdGhnWGLKy4bAr_NkGsH2P2C4eAisqs1rqndnbOg/s400/P1010674.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bagan</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Most
of them housed one or more Buddhas, and the larger ones multiple Buddhas,
usually in the 'earth touching' mudra, calling Mother Earth to witness the
Buddha's Enlightenment.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Ancient
frescoes depicting the Jakata tales and </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Śā</span><span lang="EN-US">kyamuni Buddha's life were
evident in some of the chambers and corridors, and the external architecture
reflecting the evolution of design in the 230 years up to 1287 when the site
was developed by the Bagan kings.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Sites
visited: Ananda Pahto - an early Bagan design and notable for the four standing
images of the Buddha, Thatbyinnyu Phato - a huge temple of the middle period of
the Bagan era - and an attractive small temple just beyond it, and Shwegugyi -
another elegant temple of the middle period.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Before
the usual afternoon break, there was a (thankfully) brief visit to a local
lacquerware producer, revealing a surprisingly intricate process involving
bamboo, horse hair, teak, and the sap from a particular tree in southern Burma.
</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">As
I type this is I acquire my first two mozzie bites, sitting over lunch near the
hotel. Not many of them about at this time of the year, but I forgot to spray
the usual noxious insecticide, and the little buggers got me. Our guide insists
that Dengue Fever and Malaria are not an issue here, but that's not what the
usual UK advisories say, and I'm sticking with them...Malarone for breakfast as
usual.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Late
afternoon, guess what? </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">More
temple visits...this time to see Sulamani Pahto - built in 1181 and with many
well preserved frescoes, Dhammayangyi Pahto, a massive walled temple with a
cruel history and still awaiting further restoration (unusual in that it's the
only Bagan temple with two side by side Buddhas, </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Śā</span><span lang="EN-US">kyamuni and Maitreya), and a
sunset viewing point on Shwesandaw Paya. This was completely overwhelmed with
visitors climbing the steep outer steps to view the sunset, so I went exploring
nearby temples, and aided by a local with a torch climbed the steep internal
steps of La Ka Ou Shang about 400m south of the big car park at Shwesandaw and
got extensive views without the hubbub. Well worth a little effort. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOWz2dWI6fK1jeO3TCglGMnvMl3cM2a6EZ5vJS1q-f3WsiuKUtBAtC7Gwsoz1aAUIT0k0B_zvCqiXtZFl5acsnNVVOUWdP2ff58G8PVRNBWS8gzjhVa_6fdsqZiLmATLVrNka5Lw/s1600/P1010771.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOWz2dWI6fK1jeO3TCglGMnvMl3cM2a6EZ5vJS1q-f3WsiuKUtBAtC7Gwsoz1aAUIT0k0B_zvCqiXtZFl5acsnNVVOUWdP2ff58G8PVRNBWS8gzjhVa_6fdsqZiLmATLVrNka5Lw/s400/P1010771.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
convivial dinner at the excellent Black Bamboo restaurant, although this is now
rated in the Lonely Planet guide, so take care to book tables for dinner. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Our
hotel, the Yar Kinn Tha, in Nyaung U, was excellent, with great staff and large
rooms with quiet air con. But like the rest of Bagan, power cuts were very
frequent, day and night. Pack a headtorch!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<b><span lang="EN-US">Day 5</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">As
it transpired, a colourful morning was had. Having the visited the charming
13th century temple of Wetkyi-In-Gubyaukgyi (just outside Nyaung U) and studied
its many frescoes from the Jatakas, we happened upon the procession of children
who, the following day, would be entering monasteries as monks or nuns (often
only for seven days at their tender age). Mums and elder sisters in all their
finery, each sporting a colourful parasol led the way into the village of
Myinkaba, followed by the little ones wearing crowns and heavy face make up, on
horseback, in carts drawn by oxen and finally in the back of jeeps. Following
them all was a gigantic 'boom box' of speakers, playing the music of two
guitarists and a variety of drummers who were travelling on the same barrow,
hauled by the young men of the village. Plus a diesel generator connected to the
amplification on another trolley behind. An amazing sight! </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaSwL4DPPuRiwsuHcRgD5YzCkmWiSZ0WAjWdgVATnjQHc3jsoE6uFRds44X3vWss0kSWqJTTEdF65J5vrlkx2X6zEC2zxKazLET04yPpA2_qWYKbyREjRUkm5nBCAhgzz60976ag/s1600/P1010795.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaSwL4DPPuRiwsuHcRgD5YzCkmWiSZ0WAjWdgVATnjQHc3jsoE6uFRds44X3vWss0kSWqJTTEdF65J5vrlkx2X6zEC2zxKazLET04yPpA2_qWYKbyREjRUkm5nBCAhgzz60976ag/s400/P1010795.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiblM4rx7IZ20kJ_Z8LtKUPg0UvMovSp5qQizdzZPFnfBd_jcEitL8iqFWXa7Lv2f3zf4P_oYzeqiCAjse363CDTBdZOA0rHylv2V8Lzz8kYfnMSlkxJLHldb89OzldiuldkNLHEw/s1600/P1010801.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiblM4rx7IZ20kJ_Z8LtKUPg0UvMovSp5qQizdzZPFnfBd_jcEitL8iqFWXa7Lv2f3zf4P_oYzeqiCAjse363CDTBdZOA0rHylv2V8Lzz8kYfnMSlkxJLHldb89OzldiuldkNLHEw/s400/P1010801.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMlcrVNICEb6dbas74P9lbH7vRYj6B_FiZvR7EK4KdrkfpMhE2gkCt_8lMdHwQ6Ry9YpJkMkZeEQtA9GVwo9TgR8AgrS0El6JmLSneQz6ltMLH-sXAYlspsK8xJ7gU801lfDXQig/s1600/P1010804.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMlcrVNICEb6dbas74P9lbH7vRYj6B_FiZvR7EK4KdrkfpMhE2gkCt_8lMdHwQ6Ry9YpJkMkZeEQtA9GVwo9TgR8AgrS0El6JmLSneQz6ltMLH-sXAYlspsK8xJ7gU801lfDXQig/s400/P1010804.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKZVE_q_O_lLFSYKIYNRLsTEwdI5wJwYSOqZpQTpSKujhjHmK7MCegJg8BLD9WiGD9VWz8LYZWwVrIMfoTC4YU_pzZ3dmNMzyn5cMInP6dBkKUXWRZMZquLyIyIWH-gB7vvj-w6Q/s1600/P1010806.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKZVE_q_O_lLFSYKIYNRLsTEwdI5wJwYSOqZpQTpSKujhjHmK7MCegJg8BLD9WiGD9VWz8LYZWwVrIMfoTC4YU_pzZ3dmNMzyn5cMInP6dBkKUXWRZMZquLyIyIWH-gB7vvj-w6Q/s640/P1010806.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLNqxjFTtaEoZLRE7wMxf-cOI3oFIrIoBl2adLFLfC-B1XevV0zHL0_2nDOQmsRSeOYGX4B3FrVKHFWm-d4Zz1KO8gJY5pkTXYl0ceKk4_MfJ35MMIKfQTjG81X9UM1zcGskvcxQ/s1600/P1010808.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLNqxjFTtaEoZLRE7wMxf-cOI3oFIrIoBl2adLFLfC-B1XevV0zHL0_2nDOQmsRSeOYGX4B3FrVKHFWm-d4Zz1KO8gJY5pkTXYl0ceKk4_MfJ35MMIKfQTjG81X9UM1zcGskvcxQ/s400/P1010808.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDdP6F0G01hhbNFPQF1wNM7tcKlQvjpqpO_Bt3FCRVpzWd2aZ7XfLEgU8MQj3zLrCJYzjfSwFKv9k4a9esoR6qI3aiDe8oMEBiG-ltBdvvFV0TnjnNXhFn725GZeVALGpAw-mgcA/s1600/P1010829.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDdP6F0G01hhbNFPQF1wNM7tcKlQvjpqpO_Bt3FCRVpzWd2aZ7XfLEgU8MQj3zLrCJYzjfSwFKv9k4a9esoR6qI3aiDe8oMEBiG-ltBdvvFV0TnjnNXhFn725GZeVALGpAw-mgcA/s400/P1010829.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBzkdcv9SnLSTLzLnEVA-8_eu-cIDYDFDh3lHRJ3PttaNEY04CM6AdQtrRTEpxnkQ1u24eWxDDJ0b1SQcKutgYnHmdW7uWXZKNJb5JoABJCNJ2tu4zVh-iPlLAidbiy1zFtueE9Q/s1600/P1010819.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBzkdcv9SnLSTLzLnEVA-8_eu-cIDYDFDh3lHRJ3PttaNEY04CM6AdQtrRTEpxnkQ1u24eWxDDJ0b1SQcKutgYnHmdW7uWXZKNJb5JoABJCNJ2tu4zVh-iPlLAidbiy1zFtueE9Q/s400/P1010819.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Processional music (note the generator being dragged behind the trailer!)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
went on to the pagoda called Manuha Paya, a large building containing three
large sitting Buddhas, and a big reclining Buddha at the back of the building,
this one in the act of entering <i>parinibbana</i>,
the final release from suffering in cyclic existence. The temple is dated to
1059. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfoNbVGSFyrpdGc210IYzXITkwo9IWHEg284ZhvVQxmgoaDUAhMkoO0OVfH_19wQkkXoLYiwWi1fcAyGZ-7CMX1A_EYnqDjIOR0krJW3IsuYOb33xtKz3VUueMAbouWodUNqpGeg/s1600/P1010842.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfoNbVGSFyrpdGc210IYzXITkwo9IWHEg284ZhvVQxmgoaDUAhMkoO0OVfH_19wQkkXoLYiwWi1fcAyGZ-7CMX1A_EYnqDjIOR0krJW3IsuYOb33xtKz3VUueMAbouWodUNqpGeg/s400/P1010842.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Manuha Paya</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYrUHi3DpzPsWWiW5ldqYNfnKxd0NT5zHS2GrQJp3o1mOkdZ6kusSpGsNP2vrB5uuF4eU2zMHzXDq63bWC3cr8snMtQZplBkicc-CV2BBlMhbMHAs23Y6yMm4NlVhEh84cJFWl5A/s1600/P1010845.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYrUHi3DpzPsWWiW5ldqYNfnKxd0NT5zHS2GrQJp3o1mOkdZ6kusSpGsNP2vrB5uuF4eU2zMHzXDq63bWC3cr8snMtQZplBkicc-CV2BBlMhbMHAs23Y6yMm4NlVhEh84cJFWl5A/s400/P1010845.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Nearby,
another smaller temple, Nan Paya, featured interesting interior stone work,
with images of the Indian god Brahma facing a central dias, empty now, but said
to have been a sitting Buddha. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">An
early lunch, then onwards to Mount Popa, a 4980' extinct volcano bounded by
lush forest. On its flank is a 2418' volcanic plug, hosting a gilded Buddhist
temple accessed by 777 steps up a covered walkway, a climb of about 20 minutes.
Mount Popa is also a major venue for nat worship, and many nat images can be
seen in the Mother Spirit of Popa Nat Shrine at the base of the steps.</span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj374IDsxdGrUZG1C_kxH3Jc76okZ1RsSqBCSCUaltlRH2k6wJD0clPipHvb-t5S1QWhqMALFC_I-s_xqVsd8UBIrebONWdvzGNkA0W3U7KUUrH4R0fWJ21Y6kk2m56tVPsU48lw/s1600/P1010886.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj374IDsxdGrUZG1C_kxH3Jc76okZ1RsSqBCSCUaltlRH2k6wJD0clPipHvb-t5S1QWhqMALFC_I-s_xqVsd8UBIrebONWdvzGNkA0W3U7KUUrH4R0fWJ21Y6kk2m56tVPsU48lw/s640/P1010886.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdaN3y_iEaYJzXmdSBjPEceWqzf0vSKQoi7b7B7QY-A0hdiCVBSGvow2_9WM6JnwNx4tZ8Xnu3LW7jzI3EWP8n1o3ezy2-yzLUWwQwI8w3VIfcDxqfrT0cWzBbTNFJ2zYE5KM_Pw/s1600/P1010901.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdaN3y_iEaYJzXmdSBjPEceWqzf0vSKQoi7b7B7QY-A0hdiCVBSGvow2_9WM6JnwNx4tZ8Xnu3LW7jzI3EWP8n1o3ezy2-yzLUWwQwI8w3VIfcDxqfrT0cWzBbTNFJ2zYE5KM_Pw/s400/P1010901.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEX4CaC6BBs7jUJVFTtEdmDC9AGujzHm57TH_KsSDhmAseQKpaTfwXoDNZF8vPXBMJ-dRk-kLeedF9U9k9t4iupDi4GMAVHtqwJnfnO-bXYumL5QTYCfLovyF5dGefb9fS9HxF4g/s1600/P1010895.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEX4CaC6BBs7jUJVFTtEdmDC9AGujzHm57TH_KsSDhmAseQKpaTfwXoDNZF8vPXBMJ-dRk-kLeedF9U9k9t4iupDi4GMAVHtqwJnfnO-bXYumL5QTYCfLovyF5dGefb9fS9HxF4g/s640/P1010895.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Views from the temple on Popa Taung Kalat</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">777
steps sounds a lot, but we were easily up to the temple, avoiding the many
monkeys that inhabit this stairway, and who sometimes grab food (or cameras)
from unsuspecting visitors. The view from the top is fine, except the afternoon
haze somewhat compromised the photography, but it was great to get away to a
quieter spot, most tourists not making the effort to do the one and half hour
drive south of Bagan to access this site.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
countryside en route gave us our first proper glimpse of the rural Burma. The
parched sandy soils of the flat central region, awaiting the rains to produce
crops of peanuts, sesame and corn. The woven bamboo walls of the farmer's
shacks, roofed with palm leaves, the small-holdings with a collection of pigs,
chickens and cattle, and carefully tended gardens growing vegetables and more
exotic crops like dragon fruit. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
road to Popa was tarmac, but only just two lanes, and very quiet, the odd moped
or bicycle on their way, but deliciously empty most of the time. We stopped at
a small business who make their living demonstrating how they derive products
from the many toddy palm trees that grow in this area, tapping the trunk for
palm syrup, then showing how this is converted to palm sugar (delicious when
eaten in small moist lumps with locally grown sesame seeds), and a palm spirit,
the fermented and distilled output from a mixture of palm sugar and rice...and
it wasn't bad either.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigWv0NJvEvtK-H2oEcC9z76h590DR8Pe_WwIgYMVZf87N5XXiI6RTzT5RAzF1fAa2kJwhNgAxdD9F71NCH-aOvlfUeTPAr73S8x-3vQONHERUk8xuOYthb-634MAaG08e4OWMmiw/s1600/P1010878.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigWv0NJvEvtK-H2oEcC9z76h590DR8Pe_WwIgYMVZf87N5XXiI6RTzT5RAzF1fAa2kJwhNgAxdD9F71NCH-aOvlfUeTPAr73S8x-3vQONHERUk8xuOYthb-634MAaG08e4OWMmiw/s640/P1010878.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">On
our return journey we stopped at a local village, and enjoyed a few minutes
with inquisitive villagers and their animals, although personally I'm not keen
on this rather voyeuristic approach to tourism.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpzY7lvNGw0SpknKKL5gSAuHH3HwRzNTS58rUYSdCA1Jbb6Vk8Y5tdNO_g1tbg3A8IV2mLrZy-1ccHvzvIOLltAUZ1aZ44JfawdEW6ccflFpXxAlbJL5yFtxgoxknVCek24t4pJw/s1600/P1010942.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpzY7lvNGw0SpknKKL5gSAuHH3HwRzNTS58rUYSdCA1Jbb6Vk8Y5tdNO_g1tbg3A8IV2mLrZy-1ccHvzvIOLltAUZ1aZ44JfawdEW6ccflFpXxAlbJL5yFtxgoxknVCek24t4pJw/s400/P1010942.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ0QUyLAbHJM_5sb4JJCrLQNXF-I1ReXnFnhyphenhyphenEPapZLWFE9EzrFgLTOqcYyLVrcHjN6IAM1BOKYbq64l0S83YkLtRT1KxucpmBmc6zwaDvQ1UC0Q75GRKWvJcjBoF73LhMU5yKtQ/s1600/P1010946.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ0QUyLAbHJM_5sb4JJCrLQNXF-I1ReXnFnhyphenhyphenEPapZLWFE9EzrFgLTOqcYyLVrcHjN6IAM1BOKYbq64l0S83YkLtRT1KxucpmBmc6zwaDvQ1UC0Q75GRKWvJcjBoF73LhMU5yKtQ/s400/P1010946.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Back
to Nyaung U in time for a nice sunset over the Ayerawaddy River, viewed from
the balcony at the Beach Bagan Restaurant with a nice cool beer in hand.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7jYk1DIDuEgYmIAfF2ZyLwfPGIscVY58ukW5KPLcU4j0AKGVbPPh3W-pqqxf__q1QCCKL7wdSWov2lruOAXQpKmzgRFigdhmOFx3y0AC2GNSjNHyCBDMJMreIxTcrOOpwn0Lduw/s1600/P1010961.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7jYk1DIDuEgYmIAfF2ZyLwfPGIscVY58ukW5KPLcU4j0AKGVbPPh3W-pqqxf__q1QCCKL7wdSWov2lruOAXQpKmzgRFigdhmOFx3y0AC2GNSjNHyCBDMJMreIxTcrOOpwn0Lduw/s400/P1010961.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<b><span lang="EN-US">Day 6</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Another
early start, heading for a flight from Bagan to Mandalay. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
half hour flight across hazy landscapes brought us to the large city of
Mandalay, said to have a population of 6 million people, with many Chinese
immigrants fuelling what appears to be an economic boom. Motorbikes and mopeds
everywhere, and once off the new dual carriageway from the airport (flanked by
a new gas/oil pipeline project which is being built in association with the
Chinese), the streets are manic, with people and vehicles everywhere. Real
hustle and bustle, much busier than Yangon.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg34u0FAp919e8tQrKpa8EbBikyFI2CzqFdKCt8p1b1z-0bJM04oGZ9KHzW5dhdWCJuFKOsv_dqIpciilByTtLwMankuPAPG2YTGEwMq7vItm6DD1L6Izv8Dq4PCPY3rByiQwbEfg/s1600/P1010978.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg34u0FAp919e8tQrKpa8EbBikyFI2CzqFdKCt8p1b1z-0bJM04oGZ9KHzW5dhdWCJuFKOsv_dqIpciilByTtLwMankuPAPG2YTGEwMq7vItm6DD1L6Izv8Dq4PCPY3rByiQwbEfg/s400/P1010978.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No constraints on two-wheelers in Mandalay (until one hits a general!)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia4cOifDWVVNfB7qcfZ_RI6x84fJxyG1qi_XuQF0UAd3TYIMCf6cULoF3vwjZcjgcKqBcnP3D84M2t8xqgcVLMUAhyphenhyphenHyhSZX857JiJBKLvrF1cH0ISOLZlcXDgDXady-BuHLA0iw/s1600/P1010987.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia4cOifDWVVNfB7qcfZ_RI6x84fJxyG1qi_XuQF0UAd3TYIMCf6cULoF3vwjZcjgcKqBcnP3D84M2t8xqgcVLMUAhyphenhyphenHyhSZX857JiJBKLvrF1cH0ISOLZlcXDgDXady-BuHLA0iw/s400/P1010987.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Betel nut purveyor</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFfVR9VDSrPp-D6cGygu1ybdzwhsXqel6L5ZaEpPXRmC5D0z4gLh0pT4CNUElEn_cnaqALxDKfxlaY8tYgFdK3DwlTLGxJz_GpoPvGskwDlQNA4-dpRrxI8TEP5KVatexl6uZRoQ/s1600/P1010992.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFfVR9VDSrPp-D6cGygu1ybdzwhsXqel6L5ZaEpPXRmC5D0z4gLh0pT4CNUElEn_cnaqALxDKfxlaY8tYgFdK3DwlTLGxJz_GpoPvGskwDlQNA4-dpRrxI8TEP5KVatexl6uZRoQ/s400/P1010992.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Street market, Mandalay</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Our
hotel was just south of the city centre, and we visited another interesting
market pedalling many sorts of (often unidentifiable) food stuffs and some good
local confectionary. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
travelled into the north west of the city, driving along the two mile length of
the huge Mandalay Palace and Fort. This is bounded by a wide moat on all four
sides. Originally the place of King Thibaw, it was seized by the British in
1885, and the wooden buildings of the palace complex were subsequently
destroyed by fire during WW2. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
lunch of Shan food, quite spicy, at the Golden Shan, then visits to the gold
leaf workshops (the gold used for decorating ornamental pieces and for rubbing
on to Buddha images), the bustling Mahamuni temple where many locals were
seated in front of the famous sitting Buddha image. Apparently, this is coated
in 6" of gold leaf painstakingly applied by devotees over the years,
although, somewhat strangely, only males are permitted to do this. The temple
is surrounded by a museum and other galleries, and the approach runs alongside
a lake ... a busy but attractive place to visit, although we had too little
time to do it justice.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH8H9mjvfYGGuI9h1rEyzizccBIzVpys2f3e3sADZLKeTFYaFUe8wWvTUlNU-Xkg67Ib8UaE5YpEGMTv4j0EhGYlk4cMBAT4GbK64SXYxkT39q4zPs0p419UScFavwDcey540Pjg/s1600/P1020006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH8H9mjvfYGGuI9h1rEyzizccBIzVpys2f3e3sADZLKeTFYaFUe8wWvTUlNU-Xkg67Ib8UaE5YpEGMTv4j0EhGYlk4cMBAT4GbK64SXYxkT39q4zPs0p419UScFavwDcey540Pjg/s640/P1020006.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Always dress modestly for temple visits and remove both shoes and socks...no exception!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2qFjqHy0a_oO1Wl26RPJW3vXGTfYjPqbXFERrcmVPl2PniB5293GvYdRtQNUHEUnVc_y1O6VY4DWJ5Fo-2MlCClAK7zbx5zzOHfwWhGr5_7LeBy5JQKpaWCTPpFtzLYQX-OnpyA/s1600/P1020008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2qFjqHy0a_oO1Wl26RPJW3vXGTfYjPqbXFERrcmVPl2PniB5293GvYdRtQNUHEUnVc_y1O6VY4DWJ5Fo-2MlCClAK7zbx5zzOHfwWhGr5_7LeBy5JQKpaWCTPpFtzLYQX-OnpyA/s400/P1020008.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mahamuni temple</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXVLlNFxEvKSb1s7Fgd4fUWQ3-WyIB8s5Lep9X0HtLLqM2HiSQCW1Qj0V734C41d6w8iWi-f-THdfHZDW7BvGCeNR9OVhdiDOuADpCQxPJmNUq-IouYLvzoIubucAguqA18ObUaA/s1600/P1020026.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXVLlNFxEvKSb1s7Fgd4fUWQ3-WyIB8s5Lep9X0HtLLqM2HiSQCW1Qj0V734C41d6w8iWi-f-THdfHZDW7BvGCeNR9OVhdiDOuADpCQxPJmNUq-IouYLvzoIubucAguqA18ObUaA/s400/P1020026.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<span lang="EN-US">Just
away from the main temple complex, there's a sector of the city devoted to
stone carving, an amazing array of Buddhas in various stages of construction,
although somewhat alarming to look at as they seem to carve the face last!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Our
next stop was the Shwe In Bin Kyaung temple, constructed in teak and mounted on
wide stilts. Commissioned in 1895 by two wealthy Chinese jade merchants, this
was a really chilled place to visit, with marvellous wood carvings and an
adjacent building filled with monks and elderly laity deep in meditation.</span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguMv70VhFhB-UzaHQ1NZuLdcw8yu7GA0w6JwhU_hnxq5FqMfl4unfjI-Bn6hHI8GSUeVm-G8dYWlp-COIG1dRxzfjBOSwArgcGVehZsBfHfK5CyG4dKqIXuG-wHrqmTGKd4VYQEg/s1600/P1020040.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguMv70VhFhB-UzaHQ1NZuLdcw8yu7GA0w6JwhU_hnxq5FqMfl4unfjI-Bn6hHI8GSUeVm-G8dYWlp-COIG1dRxzfjBOSwArgcGVehZsBfHfK5CyG4dKqIXuG-wHrqmTGKd4VYQEg/s400/P1020040.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Shwe In Bin Kyaung temple</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US">The
final highlight of the day was a sunset viewing session from the top of
Mandalay Hill. I was joined by a 28 year old chap, who had been a monk for 18
years and who was now learning English so that he could travel more widely in
his practice. This passed the time as we climbed up steps for a solid half
hour, but interesting nonetheless as he practiced his English with me. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
top of the hill, festooned with small temples and numerous Buddha images, was
very busy with tourists, but there were extensive views over the north of the
city, looking south to the Mandalay Palace and Fort, east to the Shan Mountains
and west to the Ayerawaddy River.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCqIT86TGZYot_xiE0BKjuhlYpme3R3DO5vXz7GqzDjt5iNHAvCjXehJPrB6zKB_LrNViFQ9te-hEodM85l6eJYkF1r7m-JW4pTuetxOjDQnYiOVQWlco_XVwLy-Vw56dIdmuQag/s1600/P1020054.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCqIT86TGZYot_xiE0BKjuhlYpme3R3DO5vXz7GqzDjt5iNHAvCjXehJPrB6zKB_LrNViFQ9te-hEodM85l6eJYkF1r7m-JW4pTuetxOjDQnYiOVQWlco_XVwLy-Vw56dIdmuQag/s400/P1020054.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<b><span lang="EN-US">Day 7</span></b><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
very early start to travel to Amarapura, the penultimate royal capital
established in 1783 but lasting only 70 years or so, before moving to Mandalay.
We were heading to U Bein's bridge, a 1.2km teak bridge spanning Taungthaman
Lake, used by pedestrian traffic going about their daily business and great for
atmospheric sunrises.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFT8mvL0QIHRSzhNKQfBlooskzbdUMZinJlQ_Xd2c1gwJsfWpeWccP06jr04A575Zds7-JnrADSrNt_xDvbmbRJC5dUcSludLSP5F-DP3xVGZJEKRxjIs5Izg86r2oTq23Dh-t8A/s1600/P1020110.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFT8mvL0QIHRSzhNKQfBlooskzbdUMZinJlQ_Xd2c1gwJsfWpeWccP06jr04A575Zds7-JnrADSrNt_xDvbmbRJC5dUcSludLSP5F-DP3xVGZJEKRxjIs5Izg86r2oTq23Dh-t8A/s640/P1020110.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<span lang="EN-US">I
was expecting hordes of tourists, but at that time of the morning, crossing the
bridge with head torches, we had the place to ourselves, except for locals
exercising and monks on their way to collect alms. A serene setting, with dawn
breaking ahead of us, flocks of shags and large white egrets above us, and the
chant of monks engaged in early morning prayer calmly completing the scene. It
was a reluctant dawn, but patience was rewarded with a huge red sun silouetted
across the water, the surface broken only by a few fisherman wading up to their
waists in order to attend to their nets. A great start to the day. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijirEWDe7dqlzL8HzyOiC6hGE6yQvcttdKIHJf37dPNLP6Ov9EjB5GfEgW_lFMJ6zuk-2lithL8oo7pOZaeTW_ovTeENcpG_ily_JLCRH0mXaafL72-gKiAjdDxLPNbWlIQbXmsw/s1600/P1020130.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijirEWDe7dqlzL8HzyOiC6hGE6yQvcttdKIHJf37dPNLP6Ov9EjB5GfEgW_lFMJ6zuk-2lithL8oo7pOZaeTW_ovTeENcpG_ily_JLCRH0mXaafL72-gKiAjdDxLPNbWlIQbXmsw/s400/P1020130.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">U Bein's Bridge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Next
on a busy agenda for the day was to get a boat from the Mayan Chan jetty up to
Mingun, an hour or so of gentle cruising north on the Ayerawaddy River. The
river is very busy with large barges, stacked with rice, oil drums, teak, and
dredged silt used for construction. And plenty of small boats either fishing or
carrying locally produced water melon and the like. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCksZkB4omrta8hFLMW8DMemf8CWB-u2_zMeI0glLRerQc1zhxBEpbjit-tTck3gpmetWGRT7-IB-ObS5k43t-y7uyBCguOVQ_oyfTFCLkWCJjNdihY39V5Cc_o90C_i6rX09wpw/s1600/P1020164.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCksZkB4omrta8hFLMW8DMemf8CWB-u2_zMeI0glLRerQc1zhxBEpbjit-tTck3gpmetWGRT7-IB-ObS5k43t-y7uyBCguOVQ_oyfTFCLkWCJjNdihY39V5Cc_o90C_i6rX09wpw/s400/P1020164.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boating on the <span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Ayerawaddy River</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp-Papzt9724kAIvZV9tPk65dZrgvs1z6FzjAshxPmea1yEdzi6y5IxWfbBLUj1VVkYlY9ADB5V5fwr3UkX4TCEDAH4HI-KN7XvzujfKrKzmHI9tCx8PihNS01GEEmSDb4xQfKUA/s1600/P1020149.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp-Papzt9724kAIvZV9tPk65dZrgvs1z6FzjAshxPmea1yEdzi6y5IxWfbBLUj1VVkYlY9ADB5V5fwr3UkX4TCEDAH4HI-KN7XvzujfKrKzmHI9tCx8PihNS01GEEmSDb4xQfKUA/s400/P1020149.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<span lang="EN-US">Alighting
from the boat, you are immediately impressed with Mingun Paya, the world's
largest stupa had it ever been finished. Commissioned by King Bodawpaya in 1790,
using forced labour from the conquered peoples of western Burma, work was
abandoned upon his death in 1819. All that's left now is a monumentally large
base, about 100m high and about one third of the originally intended height.
There are some huge cracks in the structure now as a result of earthquakes, and
just the haunches of the two vast guardian deities (<i>chinthe, </i>half dragon, half lion) remain near the riverside
entrance. Steps to the top of the base have now been closed off due to
structural instability following the most recent earthquake.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga0_g23nRQ-5RZ9gWHYCV-RD38b0Y4izKwKzGhpH0l_B7AeH4NwBF18Qpp_mRg3P8Jpid6RsuH7Fh8O70bYFv6D5bWLi7pOJjEqjP0DQNISLXRVtqC0ktm21T14xfS_3AufAnjog/s1600/P1020196.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga0_g23nRQ-5RZ9gWHYCV-RD38b0Y4izKwKzGhpH0l_B7AeH4NwBF18Qpp_mRg3P8Jpid6RsuH7Fh8O70bYFv6D5bWLi7pOJjEqjP0DQNISLXRVtqC0ktm21T14xfS_3AufAnjog/s400/P1020196.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">Base of the <span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Mingun Paya. Had it been completed it would have been 3X </span></span><span style="font-size: x-small;">higher</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYSMhhSr9_rVALegbX-Ytlancq2C_rWBTjn2v7YI9gBmAsmJHcZreINCleJv0iqv9WhsQHAZwcQFTVpsPWL06C_cQKacVmcdg1wmvaUui92qq9n9Zq8_FgShzb6FBDcxNHmQsyeQ/s1600/P1020203.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYSMhhSr9_rVALegbX-Ytlancq2C_rWBTjn2v7YI9gBmAsmJHcZreINCleJv0iqv9WhsQHAZwcQFTVpsPWL06C_cQKacVmcdg1wmvaUui92qq9n9Zq8_FgShzb6FBDcxNHmQsyeQ/s640/P1020203.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'Get this Mingun bell off my head!'</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwQ3H9J9jCrdNfNZuY6GXWLnzHu1JY6A8YDOPEDbvwFuYHLKJXcfmeB7u-c4RyD3G94Wb2LC6JSxWo_xNqcbmKNgB09mW0R3m6oaCkFbyX3mtQDi2nvl5jxr_uNqNB70cYqK6PHA/s1600/P1020235.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwQ3H9J9jCrdNfNZuY6GXWLnzHu1JY6A8YDOPEDbvwFuYHLKJXcfmeB7u-c4RyD3G94Wb2LC6JSxWo_xNqcbmKNgB09mW0R3m6oaCkFbyX3mtQDi2nvl5jxr_uNqNB70cYqK6PHA/s400/P1020235.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Hsinbyume Paya</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Nearby
is the Mingun Bell, the largest uncracked bell in the world weighing 90 tonnes
and standing over 13' high. Further down the track, past numerous vendors and
taxi ranks of bullock carts, there's the marvellous Hsinbyume Paya, modelled
according to Buddhist cosmology, with white wave-like terraces representing the
seven seas surrounding the mythical Mount Meru, the 'centre of the universe.'
Good views from here having climbed the steep steps up to view the two Buddhas
atop the stupa, but by now the temperature was starting to get oppressive. Time
to get back on the boat.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
longish transit south, taking care to avoid grounding on the shifting sand
banks of the Ayerawaddy, we eventually arrived in Sagaing for a late lunch. The
boat crew place a guy on the foredeck with a long measuring pole, and he checks
the depth of the river as the boat nears the sandbanks, signalling depth and
which way to turn to avoid grounding. We passed a large freighter which had
grounded and it was still struggling to free itself when we passed back this
way five hours later. Someone got home late for tea methinks.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxsMC7Yu8VwxLRbYZ1UlOe5N0TKnBBYes4iUjo_4eFoRabtNKK8xmdjTU3Yb5iramYzLVLJzGUx9NtIyJ4U74_U-KX9vpbQYp0MdfhQkPFS1HytIppw0GUTvZ84lOrCuHX_ZZ7UA/s1600/P1020268.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="317" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxsMC7Yu8VwxLRbYZ1UlOe5N0TKnBBYes4iUjo_4eFoRabtNKK8xmdjTU3Yb5iramYzLVLJzGUx9NtIyJ4U74_U-KX9vpbQYp0MdfhQkPFS1HytIppw0GUTvZ84lOrCuHX_ZZ7UA/s400/P1020268.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Exodus group in <span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Umin Thounzeh, Sagaing</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRkmm4S9Fcu9z12Pj6tn7j43B-vbKgRxy845J3wQFIbam7gN1CmfuugMKbYS2-y0dmqVFlkU4PFQtQxOaLN2viWcHzMSmBU9ZzNiRSLJH3aEZgVeTzTJ6W2ZtOJqcdpnFCtJzjVA/s1600/P1020299.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRkmm4S9Fcu9z12Pj6tn7j43B-vbKgRxy845J3wQFIbam7gN1CmfuugMKbYS2-y0dmqVFlkU4PFQtQxOaLN2viWcHzMSmBU9ZzNiRSLJH3aEZgVeTzTJ6W2ZtOJqcdpnFCtJzjVA/s640/P1020299.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View <span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">from Pon Nya Shin Pagoda</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Sagaing
presents a magical view from the river, a vast array of white and gold stupas
proudly standing atop numerous small hills all around, and we gained marvellous
views from a number of vantage points on Sagaing Hill, most notably from Pon
Nya Shin Pagoda. There's also an impressive sight at the Umin Thounzeh,
literally '30 caves', with a crescent shaped colonnade containing some 45
Buddha images. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">This
afternoon was the hottest of the trip, and it was good to get back on the boat
and laze for the cruise northwards to Mandalay, the boat fighting the current
all the way.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
great day out, although tiring in the heat. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<b><span lang="EN-US">Day 8</span></b><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Another
early start! Although I would have been up before dawn anyway, as the local
temple behind the hotel insists on playing loud traditional music at 0430 for
some reason. It even woke the local cockerels up!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Today
we head south west to Kalaw in Shan State, flying from Mandalay to Heho, a
flight of about 30 minutes. It's much hillier in these parts, with a
corresponding reduction in temperature, a pleasant 25 C with a cool breeze. The
southern part of the Shan State is relatively peaceful, but to the north and
east there has been a long-running civil war, and Heho is used as a military
airport as a result. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
people in a very small rural market are drawn from many different tribes,
including the Pa-O, Palaung and Danu, and the foodstuffs on sale differed from
that seen in Mandalay and Yangon, a lot of dried fish seen here for example.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEl7fMVvejsFI8vDhiXEBVflVXXWw6cPAW7cX6357Y4wnNHroIAOqkLkVU06B3HfztZI49E5oYPz01nRym2TGFVSMX3fS0De1FxG7Sik0_uJuDwIeaLcHM00D9wm-ulodqxHLJFw/s1600/P1020314.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEl7fMVvejsFI8vDhiXEBVflVXXWw6cPAW7cX6357Y4wnNHroIAOqkLkVU06B3HfztZI49E5oYPz01nRym2TGFVSMX3fS0De1FxG7Sik0_uJuDwIeaLcHM00D9wm-ulodqxHLJFw/s400/P1020314.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD0bDfeM1Mo_lDJ7XA-akC2-dw4QNdD6nJAPVLOLBXtsoihHMJRPl9KbF3IT8AR5J7mmLo2wKewW_WkfdWo0aHTQjo-iotxHQ-BDaZjjo_9mwxLVwXp_TCzWNYPq6aODXKy8fFfA/s1600/P1020316.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD0bDfeM1Mo_lDJ7XA-akC2-dw4QNdD6nJAPVLOLBXtsoihHMJRPl9KbF3IT8AR5J7mmLo2wKewW_WkfdWo0aHTQjo-iotxHQ-BDaZjjo_9mwxLVwXp_TCzWNYPq6aODXKy8fFfA/s640/P1020316.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrrsnErPVQ1aWpc4RVyTn4mfb45C39ASiSbE2_CIxoOwCfl-Fpx8BdXezUOzaUMPXUmDb6ClMo_rgL5vecqjZzFy9oDo_94BDA0MmcY6gAwUtupKPgOVuUa-kw_RIIR8jZX419aw/s1600/P1020336.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrrsnErPVQ1aWpc4RVyTn4mfb45C39ASiSbE2_CIxoOwCfl-Fpx8BdXezUOzaUMPXUmDb6ClMo_rgL5vecqjZzFy9oDo_94BDA0MmcY6gAwUtupKPgOVuUa-kw_RIIR8jZX419aw/s640/P1020336.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Market in Kalaw</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
landscape is a mixture of distinct hillocks, wooded with pine and numerous red
and orange flame trees, and rolling open countryside. Small farmsteads had
banana trees growing in their gardens.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
had a good lunch at a Shan restaurant in Kalaw, our stop for the next two
nights. This is an old hill station used by British colonials to escape the
heat of the plains, situated at 1300m and notably cooler here, with a
refreshing breeze. There's a backpacker feel to the place, quite chilled,
although there are more military about, our lunch spot also being used by five
smartly uniformed army officers.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Instead
of charging around the various temples and viewpoints around the town, I opted
for an afternoon of idleness, a good nap followed by tea on the balcony
overlooking the attractive gardens of our well situated hotel, the Pine Hill
Resort, on a hill south of the bustling town. Views to the hills, a fresh
breeze and flowers in abundance, a good place to chill for a while. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZPA-aplElrCEchBVqTNAgypSQUIMajhDvLCHFFYYM1xNnnpTndrGscgo8OpBi2lkXjwECSlU9NgzvvMKP4_fpu2oFc5vi2zySDFkp0wWYMuOs-HjAJRem8xYGZnZ_-B3QdqRt0A/s1600/P1020327.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZPA-aplElrCEchBVqTNAgypSQUIMajhDvLCHFFYYM1xNnnpTndrGscgo8OpBi2lkXjwECSlU9NgzvvMKP4_fpu2oFc5vi2zySDFkp0wWYMuOs-HjAJRem8xYGZnZ_-B3QdqRt0A/s400/P1020327.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gardens at Pine Hill Resort</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Dinner
in the town with good Shan food again at the Seven Sisters restaurant. The pork
steamed in banana leaves was particularly good.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<b><span lang="EN-US">Day 9</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
day started with another market visit, this time a more significant one as
it's a visiting market that comes about every five days. It was somewhat
irritating to see so many army vehicles with lowly ranked drivers bringing
officers and their ladies to do some shopping. A really good use of the
country's limited resources...</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
rest of the day was spent trekking along a circular route using old trading
routes used by Pa-O, Palaung and Danu ethnic groups, led by local guides
employed by the Rural Development Society. This is the creation of a number of
chiefs from the local ethnic tribes, taking more adventurous groups into the
remoter villages not usually visited by tour groups, the revenue then uses to
fund wells and schools. Well, that's the theory. The track looked well used by
tourists as far as I was concerned, the first village, populated by the Pa-O,
looking like it was very familiar with receiving foreign visitors. We had a tea
stop here, drinking locally grown green tea, whilst some of our ladies shopped
for various items of traditional apparel.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXh9wzQsMxS3ewAyySgjlhhETlEl8rjxfAtI0CJn4vD9K5YlQ0Tog7nylGjWFtUEn8N2nA67vYjdLchYUSt_HWSz7QWXeTEzq5bAzZKQl4KV2BFg3VFRtMR4-CMRnXMab0Gn2D2w/s1600/P1020350.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXh9wzQsMxS3ewAyySgjlhhETlEl8rjxfAtI0CJn4vD9K5YlQ0Tog7nylGjWFtUEn8N2nA67vYjdLchYUSt_HWSz7QWXeTEzq5bAzZKQl4KV2BFg3VFRtMR4-CMRnXMab0Gn2D2w/s640/P1020350.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Pa-O tribeswoman</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2BUQkM0Ml8_0c5JeYkK62BjDgIyP9AFWtRdRJMhkw8T9YmPZjyWSxavK6U1I5d6l8eyofgjYyfYiNihth3QlV9CI53d9s4YfL-oPk2QXYO_gExrSh2HI4NIIqESK_xn7l06tNjg/s1600/P1020341.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2BUQkM0Ml8_0c5JeYkK62BjDgIyP9AFWtRdRJMhkw8T9YmPZjyWSxavK6U1I5d6l8eyofgjYyfYiNihth3QlV9CI53d9s4YfL-oPk2QXYO_gExrSh2HI4NIIqESK_xn7l06tNjg/s400/P1020341.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trekking in the Shan Hills near Kalaw</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgssD7u75GlzXlvnLRlLbBxdXekaJQ8k6-FLOIfLx99Xuj5_-Yj7bnrDBCO79_T6vcXqYpCBNwIdYoBvAXn0odXdGfL2lyVM-o_DsrYyGufUlU2JHoHiT1OV9F1PvvfjvZLYrFvuQ/s1600/P1020354.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgssD7u75GlzXlvnLRlLbBxdXekaJQ8k6-FLOIfLx99Xuj5_-Yj7bnrDBCO79_T6vcXqYpCBNwIdYoBvAXn0odXdGfL2lyVM-o_DsrYyGufUlU2JHoHiT1OV9F1PvvfjvZLYrFvuQ/s640/P1020354.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm0js09tDlAnmf5RsHVriAOrDG91LfV3tdM9B5Vxdy-ne_2ddZo0vVhyAs6su7cgg-TFJIV-9YKRw921sqL_-coloCU-3oS8wqxwvm5_c-ssDPWZcuHNORBFRVbv2mZncZY-UImQ/s1600/P1020361.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm0js09tDlAnmf5RsHVriAOrDG91LfV3tdM9B5Vxdy-ne_2ddZo0vVhyAs6su7cgg-TFJIV-9YKRw921sqL_-coloCU-3oS8wqxwvm5_c-ssDPWZcuHNORBFRVbv2mZncZY-UImQ/s400/P1020361.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Limestone landscapes in Shan State</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnzcuGhkhI8U3H_LZRxm6DXFlh-AQNkVnz3S3EVTT9kd0XuzUI-W0_2MPW9N1mUl8TpNUYxXWBuX1hRwPfPDwFYld6AeCkC1gIbh0dC-oqypXR6tqsEbwmMgaa4q9KJ30jYrzvew/s1600/P1020362.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnzcuGhkhI8U3H_LZRxm6DXFlh-AQNkVnz3S3EVTT9kd0XuzUI-W0_2MPW9N1mUl8TpNUYxXWBuX1hRwPfPDwFYld6AeCkC1gIbh0dC-oqypXR6tqsEbwmMgaa4q9KJ30jYrzvew/s400/P1020362.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1o87sVN8AQcTjLPZOLEsR6TdnBmA1MJPAfdHcv4r2wXvPgJEge2x3yiIpPn-wX3KVLuQMTAidObdaqfwPgPKevy-EnlFfdpBHu02VmkInUaQ6mlWwBiNJtZFTOH5pjrtG2UII8Q/s1600/P1020386.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1o87sVN8AQcTjLPZOLEsR6TdnBmA1MJPAfdHcv4r2wXvPgJEge2x3yiIpPn-wX3KVLuQMTAidObdaqfwPgPKevy-EnlFfdpBHu02VmkInUaQ6mlWwBiNJtZFTOH5pjrtG2UII8Q/s400/P1020386.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXKCNK6z9fEqYG6x_9d4yeKK5B1pvlx7dGzFM0Rz5Ze1qau-ZQCmyH2Aiet-0opVdmOCJ2BIpMXdoVwCZgWNsSUqNApggcGSQwAxbKw_kq6d7d79d6Ay8vDCbFq1mIDNNbxlJojQ/s1600/P1020373.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXKCNK6z9fEqYG6x_9d4yeKK5B1pvlx7dGzFM0Rz5Ze1qau-ZQCmyH2Aiet-0opVdmOCJ2BIpMXdoVwCZgWNsSUqNApggcGSQwAxbKw_kq6d7d79d6Ay8vDCbFq1mIDNNbxlJojQ/s640/P1020373.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
walking before lunch was a series of long steady ascents and level contouring
paths, wide and easy to use, rising through small orchards of orange, damson,
avocado and banana trees, bushes of coffee beans, and fields of cauliflower and
mustard at the higher elevations. We walked at an altitude between 1300 and
1500m, sometimes hot but generally cooled by a gusty breeze, very pleasant easy
strolling.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
had lunch in a village mainly populated by Taung Yo peoples, sitting on the
floor at very low tables, after which some of us took a slightly more
adventurous path back to Kalaw, some steeper ascents and descents, and narrower
paths through denser forest and long grass. More sporting and very enjoyable. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRzkTVkOSCE04D7iiASGERkYJgMQomWi94Z6KavZxUtXronIqzIzXUOWS5j4UlJ5lTP9AYpnj2gc-JSbDtOKUj5p6AQ5mdBnK6T0unjbRobc1r8eeVm7FqMs1LzQjNnWV0tGJ4bQ/s1600/P1020389.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRzkTVkOSCE04D7iiASGERkYJgMQomWi94Z6KavZxUtXronIqzIzXUOWS5j4UlJ5lTP9AYpnj2gc-JSbDtOKUj5p6AQ5mdBnK6T0unjbRobc1r8eeVm7FqMs1LzQjNnWV0tGJ4bQ/s400/P1020389.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<span lang="EN-US">The
terrain here reflects the limestone bedrock of the area, ridges and occasional
bluffs, dissected by deep valleys. Almost every hilltop sports an impressive
stupa. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">As
we entered Kalaw we watched a very skilful game of <i>chinlon, </i>somewhat like volleyball but the rattan ball can only be
touched with the head, legs and feet. It turned out to be the rear of the local
fire station, so the local firemen were keeping fit in their own way. A nice
day of activity, a precursor to the rest of the week.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQend3SEi3rzURxYZWuUlo0-NAKlcxFuMNgOUiHwm6UQp6wtHAjLO3NLmlvuNbR8WURAaLy535mZ4BdK4GJdkpJZ4bFwZ_SUjpa4qd64kwEzj0-nV1g3k_tnxjya5y7yXLUFkeSQ/s1600/P1020400.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQend3SEi3rzURxYZWuUlo0-NAKlcxFuMNgOUiHwm6UQp6wtHAjLO3NLmlvuNbR8WURAaLy535mZ4BdK4GJdkpJZ4bFwZ_SUjpa4qd64kwEzj0-nV1g3k_tnxjya5y7yXLUFkeSQ/s400/P1020400.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chinlon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US">Dinner
at a local Nepali restaurant, the Everest Restaurant, basic interior but great
curry.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<b><span lang="EN-US">Day 10</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
road journey to the Inle Lake district of Shan State, taking about four hours
to cover under 40 miles on mainly single track and sometimes roughly surfaced
tarmac. Slow going, passing farmer's bullock carts, passing road making gangs
(usually groups of women, and always ready with a smile and a wave), and crude
trucks powered by two-stroke engines.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Most
of the journey we were passing through rolling countryside at an elevation of
about 1100-1200m, the soil increasingly iron rich red as we neared our
destination. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">As
it's the dry season, crops were not much in evidence, but I was left with the
impression that this is rich farming country. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Our
journey was punctuated with a couple of interesting stops, most notably the
fabulous spectacle of the Shwe Oo Min pagoda, situated on a limestone cliff
above Pone Taloke Lake in Pindaya. Below the cave complex is a multitude of
white stupas, the Nget Pyaw Taw Pagoda, and the entranceway to the main steps
leading to the caves features a large black spider adjacent to a princely
archer, reflecting the legend of his rescue of seven princesses who had taken
refuge in the caves during a storm, only to be imprisoned by the local <i>nat </i>in the form of a giant spider.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilsM9YyaHjxQ8meJ_zxF9Vrh3YcoMCdLYQf9GK8xryqeZvqXYtu074-Z3RXc1qj28f73WTgOKkONsrGVTFsPt6QBdY2ysBDLJAe8OH-gUyDXaEClU7QB2eDsMQReVUwbZVaqP1BA/s1600/P1020420.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilsM9YyaHjxQ8meJ_zxF9Vrh3YcoMCdLYQf9GK8xryqeZvqXYtu074-Z3RXc1qj28f73WTgOKkONsrGVTFsPt6QBdY2ysBDLJAe8OH-gUyDXaEClU7QB2eDsMQReVUwbZVaqP1BA/s400/P1020420.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Shwe Oo Min pagoda</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOiQANESLSebRLnMa5uf7QJrBoyUQWdIu7ZxjQltX5UUoYkd0ObzRC4UHRejNp1-TxXaVlFKP3D9ziy2sPheK4cozlmfhkPjGh1RoslAwABwaA4b_mve-FaC9Vbkz_JLn3ewRs9g/s1600/P1020417.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOiQANESLSebRLnMa5uf7QJrBoyUQWdIu7ZxjQltX5UUoYkd0ObzRC4UHRejNp1-TxXaVlFKP3D9ziy2sPheK4cozlmfhkPjGh1RoslAwABwaA4b_mve-FaC9Vbkz_JLn3ewRs9g/s400/P1020417.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking down to <span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Nget Pyaw Taw Pagoda</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp_Aod6U-dGZXiIGrCYpBLs1P9KFX2UH5RKMvnlLvLMbuVs-B7JUrT9m_GrytgiErRQyS4Qv4wChTMP0EZAPOd1PVGoDMYvDouKhHLM3Y6fNI2hyphenhyphenlBaCV8RiD4znMYvNARXwlSFQ/s1600/P1020405.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp_Aod6U-dGZXiIGrCYpBLs1P9KFX2UH5RKMvnlLvLMbuVs-B7JUrT9m_GrytgiErRQyS4Qv4wChTMP0EZAPOd1PVGoDMYvDouKhHLM3Y6fNI2hyphenhyphenlBaCV8RiD4znMYvNARXwlSFQ/s400/P1020405.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Giant spider 'nat' and conquering archer at the entrance to <span style="font-size: xx-small; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Shwe Oo Min pagoda</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhySY2GCKD7SVF_piAN4cp-O4DIrmjWGcMvmMS5rhVZT9Li_Cg7hJJgMRTN4Np9EePyy3cLYfyabIAdq9hDfSZ8GfCGudmtqhbMqqQZtQFou219koAjfrl2Kc9SMFI5twYFf7OJw/s1600/P1020428.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhySY2GCKD7SVF_piAN4cp-O4DIrmjWGcMvmMS5rhVZT9Li_Cg7hJJgMRTN4Np9EePyy3cLYfyabIAdq9hDfSZ8GfCGudmtqhbMqqQZtQFou219koAjfrl2Kc9SMFI5twYFf7OJw/s640/P1020428.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-f8SC3WOtimBUUHmOwvBinx1SoKJlXq2UZDUHZu-nMaJJC95Mf3Iuc5pN45OfZkMfctTNyJDTufO3wJ3I6yOmfKYA4GwFbF-VYBaPs-JZQmd3VTOP5BDSJ4HVN2B68QwcfyNauw/s1600/P1020437.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-f8SC3WOtimBUUHmOwvBinx1SoKJlXq2UZDUHZu-nMaJJC95Mf3Iuc5pN45OfZkMfctTNyJDTufO3wJ3I6yOmfKYA4GwFbF-VYBaPs-JZQmd3VTOP5BDSJ4HVN2B68QwcfyNauw/s640/P1020437.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Meditation cave</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDIKHoYgh5g58aUqT_S3rsXy3aovfwDjZvq4mfXxmrxeJeexchPMGzi3vxjqi1j5Hl8DjDaezHX_5nHY7m39yuNKJqKab8R0dQvRd915BLNJzBwDkcsHz0QZk1cxeb-eB9POTgCg/s1600/P1020486.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDIKHoYgh5g58aUqT_S3rsXy3aovfwDjZvq4mfXxmrxeJeexchPMGzi3vxjqi1j5Hl8DjDaezHX_5nHY7m39yuNKJqKab8R0dQvRd915BLNJzBwDkcsHz0QZk1cxeb-eB9POTgCg/s640/P1020486.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzDAMMixq4r7PQLZvAEtQWpq33e1uRZkn0EaDsD9KSSS1MeyTk6P3lRJev6_b7SQo0pHFs9k1NzkweVFiE421oSw9yNo8SfL3KK7t_7vs4t9D97NEkMdVu1ntcWq1jm6rn1lxHMQ/s1600/P1020493.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzDAMMixq4r7PQLZvAEtQWpq33e1uRZkn0EaDsD9KSSS1MeyTk6P3lRJev6_b7SQo0pHFs9k1NzkweVFiE421oSw9yNo8SfL3KK7t_7vs4t9D97NEkMdVu1ntcWq1jm6rn1lxHMQ/s640/P1020493.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of the 8,700 Buddhas in the caves of <span style="font-size: xx-small; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Shwe Oo Min</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
cave system here is full of many golden Buddhas, mostly donated by visiting
pilgrims from all over the world, and there are some 8,700 of them festooning
the cave interiors according to Lonely Planet's 2011 Guide to Myanmar. </span><b><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">It's
an extensive complex, with small meditation caves still used by monks, and
there are stalactites with water dripping away which add to the atmosphere. A
splendid 40' sitting Buddha was found in another cave pavilion reached by a
covered walkway. A real highlight of any visit to Burma.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
good lunch at the lakeside. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Onwards.
The itinerary included a visit to a small family business making parasols. I
almost stayed on the bus, but glad I didn't . This was an impressive display of
local craftsmanship using nothing more than pulp from nearby mulberry trees to
make paper, sometimes decorated with local flowers, clever use of bamboo, and
natural glues and resins to waterproof. I bought one!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
passed another procession, the locals on their way to consecrate a new Buddha
image, and the somewhat serious-looking Shan people wearing their turban like
headgear. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Our
stop for the next three nights is Nyaungshwe, a somewhat scruffy town a few
miles north of Inle Lake, with quite a number of backpackers milling around.
The Shan Hills rose steeply to the east of us, the highest mountains seen so
far, although very hazy on our arrival. Our hotel, the Hu Pin, was very Chinese
in style but functional, and located adjacent to a rather grubby canal running
to the lake.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
few of us treated ourselves to an expensive dinner at the Viewpoint Restaurant,
<i>nouvelle cuisine</i> versions of Shan
food - small portions nicely presented - washed down with a competently
produced Cabernet Sauvignon from the nearby Red Mountain Estate. Some great
flavours, especially the aubergine, and tofu made from yellow split peas.
Almost at London prices too!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<b><span lang="EN-US">Day 11</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Wandering
around the town just after breakfast, I was lucky enough to catch the
procession of local monks collecting alms for the day. A long line of slightly
sullen boys and men, in strict age order, with their bowls, collecting rice,
curry and other foods from locals who donate regularly in order to acquire
merit.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaZQwosnCjASqKfdzRZXHtQ8p0c-zbmXE0QswmX71STKBgpG2Gr9TQBsXyCTKAMVJ0givnS7ice7o8-PLnpPjvcSqk3_0EDmDCV0dTPosAItxaw0zH_ILvL1mL-ETA-W1mySrApQ/s1600/P1020496.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaZQwosnCjASqKfdzRZXHtQ8p0c-zbmXE0QswmX71STKBgpG2Gr9TQBsXyCTKAMVJ0givnS7ice7o8-PLnpPjvcSqk3_0EDmDCV0dTPosAItxaw0zH_ILvL1mL-ETA-W1mySrApQ/s640/P1020496.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monks collecting alms, early morning in <span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Nyaungshwe</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6y1Kb8UIIWfkCkfaRK93lZjJ3Capw4sT1viHpF4DVQ_k6K-bUUex_V9aUS3xMA4zE6YF-x3QLdTRC5IWmQPo39US4YbCwVq72TNUd6iKECVVQLe1G8xH_waD9_14mktFc-tLPng/s1600/P1020503.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6y1Kb8UIIWfkCkfaRK93lZjJ3Capw4sT1viHpF4DVQ_k6K-bUUex_V9aUS3xMA4zE6YF-x3QLdTRC5IWmQPo39US4YbCwVq72TNUd6iKECVVQLe1G8xH_waD9_14mktFc-tLPng/s640/P1020503.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
were to spend the day touring on Inle Lake, in small four/ five person long
tail boats. Of course, we were not alone! This is one of the tourist honeypots
of Burma and we were soon in a flotilla of relatively fast long-tails heading
south down the main canal, Nan Chaung, to the lake which is about 13.5 miles
long and 7 miles wide. Bounded on both sides by the Shan Hills, more
mountainous on the east side, the lake was flat calm as we entered on to it,
the early morning haze still shrouding the higher elevations of our
surroundings.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5cM1b1bW9AxZmWy4ONoLPPUnw6BYy9vjgT-lRF-W5DggdkN2IB-546Pq5yTzkhANCnfdJUqrZUnJMm5vHC68x5jXNjJFajt3insK_kHOKwimSRcgzTrRWKDZbtTgSQ8QeH_SrDg/s1600/P1020520.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5cM1b1bW9AxZmWy4ONoLPPUnw6BYy9vjgT-lRF-W5DggdkN2IB-546Pq5yTzkhANCnfdJUqrZUnJMm5vHC68x5jXNjJFajt3insK_kHOKwimSRcgzTrRWKDZbtTgSQ8QeH_SrDg/s400/P1020520.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<span lang="EN-US">With
the sun came our first glimpse of the Intha fisherman, unique in their use of
flat bottomed skiffs powered by a single wooden paddle - the uniqueness being
the method of leg rowing, where one leg is wrapped around the paddle to propel
the blade through the water in a snake like manner. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjVDiPcnjz1mLDU8OrZ5YDn2VjadQIVQ1YeV-Qhnzd7AGaYbUSvu6CDUhQy7octXUKl0UxGn7ro_Cbv3G6gdLVFUMOXQJAfBmsnVCdGkpjxny4Sfj2_vAcBN1JIampSKL5ehYivQ/s1600/P1020584.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjVDiPcnjz1mLDU8OrZ5YDn2VjadQIVQ1YeV-Qhnzd7AGaYbUSvu6CDUhQy7octXUKl0UxGn7ro_Cbv3G6gdLVFUMOXQJAfBmsnVCdGkpjxny4Sfj2_vAcBN1JIampSKL5ehYivQ/s400/P1020584.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Intha fishermen</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixCT0zf7R_cpZN6HRBZ5Tz7w12mrxp8pRSdS2oTVaYEKr1nB1LEPHKVJRXgWZ2pwWyLrYUjIAJDntEDAEosIQ1fcEj653k99hPDmSId3bVRnAvi4Prsy8GlmxD-o8oz5VugoM6cw/s1600/P1020574.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixCT0zf7R_cpZN6HRBZ5Tz7w12mrxp8pRSdS2oTVaYEKr1nB1LEPHKVJRXgWZ2pwWyLrYUjIAJDntEDAEosIQ1fcEj653k99hPDmSId3bVRnAvi4Prsy8GlmxD-o8oz5VugoM6cw/s400/P1020574.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span lang="EN-US">We were to see many of
these during the day, as the lake shores host quite a large population of
people, many eeking a living out of fishing and farming either artificially
created land or growing crops in floating beds of weed that have been dredged
from the lake. Bamboo and thatch houses are constructed on the reclaimed land
or some of the older ones are simply on stilts.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMFm4w-l_13HIVtRuFUoX8-YxLQazLAmaHLp52h0LOqTdelc1DhQQx-ciMJOI7Tq0ei2odGDdtYU2j07Sg8Uo8no6Wl8TheMnzv8gXNAhcKTE_8xRVMGTMXGDLOBrfM90yI_3GHg/s1600/P1020615.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMFm4w-l_13HIVtRuFUoX8-YxLQazLAmaHLp52h0LOqTdelc1DhQQx-ciMJOI7Tq0ei2odGDdtYU2j07Sg8Uo8no6Wl8TheMnzv8gXNAhcKTE_8xRVMGTMXGDLOBrfM90yI_3GHg/s640/P1020615.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMq_91FyW2iZmgFb4souo6V4mjb-RSyWA-yEMF-RyftIdTfT2BsE0azMm4l_SCPtM917amaXUDtVZVT9a4xSX-fudvPbxik1WZ31KMx4elZ8OpOIfjAaiNzCWZ3fAIXkUvBvkzLQ/s1600/P1020627.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMq_91FyW2iZmgFb4souo6V4mjb-RSyWA-yEMF-RyftIdTfT2BsE0azMm4l_SCPtM917amaXUDtVZVT9a4xSX-fudvPbxik1WZ31KMx4elZ8OpOIfjAaiNzCWZ3fAIXkUvBvkzLQ/s400/P1020627.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJg3f6RL62v7Pz3GofPNI60T3ajSRvQ6UQWqk2ANZbbVYBferN4Rm249rr5QkLIs4FE4-Pk5_8znaaAlwNOm7HIRaQYWflvR9GwmvU19l1tb-oYuskt7LhEV3vyMGx6Nnd1PRW6A/s1600/P1020611.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJg3f6RL62v7Pz3GofPNI60T3ajSRvQ6UQWqk2ANZbbVYBferN4Rm249rr5QkLIs4FE4-Pk5_8znaaAlwNOm7HIRaQYWflvR9GwmvU19l1tb-oYuskt7LhEV3vyMGx6Nnd1PRW6A/s400/P1020611.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkD-Tzl_j_VdQSrN9rWOjcvcCf1MPOEnsjXYdAxe2Da3dqA4I-BBZlNNXIOed23776SdiKQqpy7lnAkediah70AXxZsjT0IU8YwT-UBMQxlayZ42j7Y7_0W5Tbqxhtq9u1sJsYcA/s1600/P1020642.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkD-Tzl_j_VdQSrN9rWOjcvcCf1MPOEnsjXYdAxe2Da3dqA4I-BBZlNNXIOed23776SdiKQqpy7lnAkediah70AXxZsjT0IU8YwT-UBMQxlayZ42j7Y7_0W5Tbqxhtq9u1sJsYcA/s400/P1020642.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilDZoI0FP_AGecZsWq64KUiJa6SmN00D5srSXVbfk8frxFM5bWO3Z7JWHzr-mRQpvaae3KEPnMaBbi-K07fKTG5W46EQX7_Com3Na8aez4UL9ORSYhAMepdNSk6vwSAD09mvrxmQ/s1600/P1020634.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilDZoI0FP_AGecZsWq64KUiJa6SmN00D5srSXVbfk8frxFM5bWO3Z7JWHzr-mRQpvaae3KEPnMaBbi-K07fKTG5W46EQX7_Com3Na8aez4UL9ORSYhAMepdNSk6vwSAD09mvrxmQ/s400/P1020634.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCoTj4p_28YQhN0dernmLJ0T9WokpqcbuZEJERRVwigXhvylwgmtGx-o2a-gdCzBj5ni1LsMs1PEKSXGjUQm09f32mz7ykEZtH9pc0r-aOHjF0uMwMOdKSCffw0RK1daDLC2dxOw/s1600/P1020647.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCoTj4p_28YQhN0dernmLJ0T9WokpqcbuZEJERRVwigXhvylwgmtGx-o2a-gdCzBj5ni1LsMs1PEKSXGjUQm09f32mz7ykEZtH9pc0r-aOHjF0uMwMOdKSCffw0RK1daDLC2dxOw/s400/P1020647.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYoDWwcZKB0r5CbJC8Dp1i41-Hj1jWWdTiQw5QBuM8tOseH4CRRUXVtC7a2xZS6M4WVUnExUK7uITWRLHT6tgACjY4FfggKBOD8VeKLdKzMoVHPprT9D1-tsg90F57xDIwRAeAYw/s1600/P1020691.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYoDWwcZKB0r5CbJC8Dp1i41-Hj1jWWdTiQw5QBuM8tOseH4CRRUXVtC7a2xZS6M4WVUnExUK7uITWRLHT6tgACjY4FfggKBOD8VeKLdKzMoVHPprT9D1-tsg90F57xDIwRAeAYw/s640/P1020691.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Village scenes adjacent to Inle Lake</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">It
was a rather odd day, as our group visited craftsmen who had set up business on
the south west side of the lake at In Phaw Khone and Ywama, and at times it
felt like a shopping expedition. Silk weavers, including silk derived from the
stem of the lotus plant, produced some nice work, setting off a buying frenzy!
Quick visits to local blacksmiths, a cheroot maker, and a silversmiths
completed the retail part of the day. We made a visit to the huge Phaung Daw Oo
Paya, a vast pagoda situated on a channel heading west from Ywama. This was
quite commercial, and had less appeal than some of the other pagodas visited on
the trip, local pilgrims layering the central Buddha figure with tons of gold
leaf (so much so that it has a security guard) and a nearby shed housing a
large golden barge, a <i>hintha, </i>which
is used in the annual Phaung Daw Oo festival. A nice lunch of well prepared
lake fish followed.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
highlight of the day was the visit to Inthein, reached via a river which flows
over weirs constructed of mud and weed, into the south west of the lake.
Passing locals with water buffalo on a lead, the beast relishing the wallow in
this relatively fast flowing water, villagers tending their crops, and clusters
of young men and women (separately) bathing in the waters, we were suddenly
into rural life proper, a relief to get away from the overt commercialism of
the lake. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1aRiIzkwScN4SFPDM1K6mNjbBwe87WmqJ-tl4oTC6ydOKwuksEBadCMmEkhTaqNP9tHgdA5BEynFahjUxokT45G3fLI49PLSTT_HyhhpDeG_rYodB0vvXtekusc2Ut38YJ5hefg/s1600/P1020718.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1aRiIzkwScN4SFPDM1K6mNjbBwe87WmqJ-tl4oTC6ydOKwuksEBadCMmEkhTaqNP9tHgdA5BEynFahjUxokT45G3fLI49PLSTT_HyhhpDeG_rYodB0vvXtekusc2Ut38YJ5hefg/s400/P1020718.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Of
course, when we reached Inthein, there was the usual welcoming committee of
vendors, but passing through a colonnaded walkway we were confronted by the
most amazing of sights, the hundreds of ruined stupas (actually 1,054!), known
as Shwe Inn Thein Paya, many featuring ornate carvings of various Buddhist and
other symbols. Said to date from the 15th century, the site is under
substantial development, with many new stupas, some in brick, others in
concrete and many now gilded, rising alongside the earthquake shattered
remnants of the first generation. Some of the older ones lean precariously,
whilst others have been vegetated, with some featuring trees which have grown
through the top. An odd sight and hugely atmospheric.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_4l9aGOosQmmiEE_wh9pGNB9XvQjUTK48VQtszzA2PSQkOpEdWdwyGi7hOBMzIGtKqtubDxLjYiPozCZ5WIt1a-FBxVhy1Tqe1hvmwfwguM8DHrbYQIlwipIN5h7se8M9DBvtYA/s1600/P1020737.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_4l9aGOosQmmiEE_wh9pGNB9XvQjUTK48VQtszzA2PSQkOpEdWdwyGi7hOBMzIGtKqtubDxLjYiPozCZ5WIt1a-FBxVhy1Tqe1hvmwfwguM8DHrbYQIlwipIN5h7se8M9DBvtYA/s640/P1020737.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXpXLby3kZdMjwMtGlbCcUSreszeJ7capVazrl-CcUaWmYfVYLD4Whgt8eUb6Px7f9nhLpQAfhzgqujVP38GDOOj8is8Fs9QXPM3xE864DfA4R9IjJAeHMAPBIp6KtKLcQcTPY_g/s1600/P1020725.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXpXLby3kZdMjwMtGlbCcUSreszeJ7capVazrl-CcUaWmYfVYLD4Whgt8eUb6Px7f9nhLpQAfhzgqujVP38GDOOj8is8Fs9QXPM3xE864DfA4R9IjJAeHMAPBIp6KtKLcQcTPY_g/s640/P1020725.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhjVui_0yK7OBUjwRTDATy1htOWTYf6Bj-ba0hYX0JTLbwbVfv5cZQ5HebKJ7RlYxMlsqa7HL61GKhvTa_ux-SXCb13oVtfSB_b6iba7X8N4stkqcuFwSfSB2jn5aud6oPAGfejw/s1600/P1020731.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhjVui_0yK7OBUjwRTDATy1htOWTYf6Bj-ba0hYX0JTLbwbVfv5cZQ5HebKJ7RlYxMlsqa7HL61GKhvTa_ux-SXCb13oVtfSB_b6iba7X8N4stkqcuFwSfSB2jn5aud6oPAGfejw/s640/P1020731.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrnnq1wtRMJ7YAcZBftu-J3gLeYKruIhPYxT5C84tq78sDWezXQvtARIKG4CH0XbmruMXKo50_n7thd_VDfECWtEqfM0D3LRFw9ub0BeFWwlFJ3LpDLQylXF9039gUiItvkzR5aw/s1600/P1020743.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrnnq1wtRMJ7YAcZBftu-J3gLeYKruIhPYxT5C84tq78sDWezXQvtARIKG4CH0XbmruMXKo50_n7thd_VDfECWtEqfM0D3LRFw9ub0BeFWwlFJ3LpDLQylXF9039gUiItvkzR5aw/s640/P1020743.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBBqtmsSHC3IQsk1G54GCRUxt3vbhJPRwqYXnplCxoQLKQQR-7rnv87cwlgjsvigbbiWDsr1p38Hy6vaoibG0DBz0tHSVZcCeNbTM7CMigVOqqzXoWMOA7A-J3bZFrDygIulR3ow/s1600/P1020752.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBBqtmsSHC3IQsk1G54GCRUxt3vbhJPRwqYXnplCxoQLKQQR-7rnv87cwlgjsvigbbiWDsr1p38Hy6vaoibG0DBz0tHSVZcCeNbTM7CMigVOqqzXoWMOA7A-J3bZFrDygIulR3ow/s640/P1020752.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLrW1eRvoDXSpZpjMPyvluLgyI6QhwHECIH_3XlPSrBf_agWIc_tYWw_2M1ciswmiYINb8wEbBydzUAkQ9UBOBQBG-cCCFFLarEEckQKwfw4gxYC5HTi4YZguiftPYpvan0vyXXQ/s1600/P1020746.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLrW1eRvoDXSpZpjMPyvluLgyI6QhwHECIH_3XlPSrBf_agWIc_tYWw_2M1ciswmiYINb8wEbBydzUAkQ9UBOBQBG-cCCFFLarEEckQKwfw4gxYC5HTi4YZguiftPYpvan0vyXXQ/s400/P1020746.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-ESILW7s44jRGoXzS0advumnzrdUeqHLFgPURuH-2czIqSp_SW9AzlV_r4_cHjdHwbCtqaovPpYNrMppbPbF7_uPBtzsR7F-Nq33GkurHx-3vx7ZoTSV3R5Lavd_qGoA8xKA4fg/s1600/P1020748.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-ESILW7s44jRGoXzS0advumnzrdUeqHLFgPURuH-2czIqSp_SW9AzlV_r4_cHjdHwbCtqaovPpYNrMppbPbF7_uPBtzsR7F-Nq33GkurHx-3vx7ZoTSV3R5Lavd_qGoA8xKA4fg/s400/P1020748.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old and new at <span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Shwe Inn Thein Paya</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Our
late afternoon return to Nyaungshwe was through the floating gardens north of
the stilted villages, passing through a weed choked channel alongside crops of
tomato, squash, flowers and many other fruits and vegetables. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwHuUw0E-qX1qGG6-rKtdHGyqRAgSRRZ4qZy8sqSWH_XnI_TWMkr21HSz-A5R5bXm9e6mlqovKOiNfSYXTF-71MouCGQqlgusJjyMl_gOsh-kAGX3neS7cbf3h94oc_JPV-t-bgA/s1600/P1020772.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwHuUw0E-qX1qGG6-rKtdHGyqRAgSRRZ4qZy8sqSWH_XnI_TWMkr21HSz-A5R5bXm9e6mlqovKOiNfSYXTF-71MouCGQqlgusJjyMl_gOsh-kAGX3neS7cbf3h94oc_JPV-t-bgA/s400/P1020772.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Floating gardens at Inle Lake</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
And
then fast across the lake back to our start point, delayed a little when the
engine on our boat unceremoniously died, requiring us to transfer into the
other boats. The warmth of a red and orange sunset soon turned to the chill of
early evening as we made the last few miles back up the canal.</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
great simple dinner at Lin Htett Myanmar restaurant, recommended in the Lonely
Planet guide and justifiably so.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<b><span lang="EN-US">Day 12</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
cycling tour to the west of Lake Inle today, quickly leaving the polluted air
of Nyaungshwe, and up into the hills to visit some villages. An interesting
morning, visiting another farm with a
small distilling business, producing spirit from a mixture of rice and
sugar cane. Further on, a larger village whose economy was based on locally
grown soya beans and sugar cane. We saw soya beans being made into roasted
snacks and crackers, and in another location yellow split peas being made into
tofu. Sugar cane was converted into brown sugar lumps and chewy toffee.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Alas,
I suffered from severe dehydration today, a culmination of not drinking enough
whilst out on the lake yesterday, and cut my cycling tour short. A good rest
and 4L of water sorted me out though. Should have known better!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<b><span lang="EN-US">Day 13</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0WAX_Z2EpCn1Zs8GSvvjx-9DYscgZKZLzzTSIdjiSKXbu5O3BF3PMe95-lStGqst3fDrQuLq4-LKVeLhjiyNfx2dl3uNUs02zhx53QduJy1Uc4oE3gIrIYQ5ro_DB-lqjMO7qgQ/s1600/P1020789.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0WAX_Z2EpCn1Zs8GSvvjx-9DYscgZKZLzzTSIdjiSKXbu5O3BF3PMe95-lStGqst3fDrQuLq4-LKVeLhjiyNfx2dl3uNUs02zhx53QduJy1Uc4oE3gIrIYQ5ro_DB-lqjMO7qgQ/s400/P1020789.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shan style Buddhist monastery</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US">A
drive of some 40km back to Heho to catch an early flight to Yangon. R and R
today, much of it spent in the best hotel in town, The Strand, which hankers
back to the colonial days and is now the venue of choice for the expat
community in Yangon, today an assortment of Canadian diplomats who had just met
with Aung San Suu Kyi and some predictably boisterous Australian NGO staffers.
A good number of G and Ts were consumed after a good lunch, before returning
for the group dinner in the evening. Necessary rehydration demanded a return to
The Strand later in the evening for a final tipple.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<b><span lang="EN-US">Day 14</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Chaotic
traffic in Yangon had to be negotiated by the coach taking us to the airport,
but we were efficiently processed once again, ready for the return flight to
London via KL.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<b><span lang="EN-US">A few general tips for
travelling in Burma</span></b></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br />
<ul>
<li>Tourist
infrastructure at its limits</li>
<li>Food
quality and variety good throughout - 'Delhi belly' is not an issue for most
people</li>
<li>People
seem to be very law abiding, e.g. use of horns before dawn doesn't happen,
driving is chaotic but they generally stick to the rules (drive on right)</li>
<li>Domestic
airlines generally good quality, although schedules do change at the last
minute</li>
<li>Take
great care when crossing roads, everything has priority except for poor
pedestrians trying to cross the road</li>
<li>Internet
and wifi available in Yangon, Bagan, Ngaungshwe, and Mandalay. Best upload
speeds in Mandalay. Kalaw no good for power or Internet.</li>
<li>Power
cuts very frequent in Bagan, also Yangon a bit intermittent, Mandalay better.
Most hotels have generators that kick in after a short delay.</li>
<li>Apparently
tailormade guests get priority on hotel reservations as they probably pay more.</li>
<li>Lake
Inle the most commercial of the sights visited but still a 'must-do'</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Recommended
reading: </b></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-US">The River of Lost Footsteps, a personal history of Burma by Thant
Myint-U</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US">From the Land of Green Ghosts, by Pascal Khoo Thwe</span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"> </span><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: #0400; mso-bidi-language: X-NONE; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: #0400;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Unknownnoreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9888425.post-62417255935731792712012-10-25T07:52:00.006+00:002013-10-13T06:28:25.565+00:00The Camino de Santiago, the Pilgrim's Trail to Santiago de Compostela, October 2012 <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:TargetScreenSize>544x376</o:TargetScreenSize>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-GB</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0cm;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:"Times New Roman";}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
<br />
<div class="Body1">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx4shj_4PDHPss1WYXBmK1T3kqfa4eyCOuWS8QugYD4t-W9rc9itSABi-86x-gN6wxXYrRwrVZBWZWFKS-9GjovocL2WHcQyIhUdmQvLtpDCyc-CtFDI9V8tdgNMYKCeua9Ivueg/s1600/P1000515.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx4shj_4PDHPss1WYXBmK1T3kqfa4eyCOuWS8QugYD4t-W9rc9itSABi-86x-gN6wxXYrRwrVZBWZWFKS-9GjovocL2WHcQyIhUdmQvLtpDCyc-CtFDI9V8tdgNMYKCeua9Ivueg/s640/P1000515.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="Body1">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">For the
second time this year I find myself in Spanish territory, this time walking
sections of the famous pilgrimage route, the Camino de Santiago, from Le<span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">ó</span>n to Santiago de Compostela in the far north west of Spain.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
The route
is also known as the Way of St James or the Road to Santiago, and was first
described by a French pilgrim in the 12th century. Said to have been first
travelled in the 9th century, this walk forms part of the 'French Route',
bringing pilgrims from the Pyrenees across the northern reaches of Spain to the
tomb of the Apostle James the Great. According to legend, a local shepherd was
guided to the spot in a field ('campo') by a star ('Stella' in Spanish), to
find the remains of St James (San Tiago in Spanish), hence the name 'Santiago
de Compostela'.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhtQWA6F9J-DaTb3UMl8fU3PzGdjaIA-wMPVOJGda3iEpRhra0PGdwcSRZm4cjEdY6Jl0Das-oHalEPnPzHlmG_-krc7QeMAepqMKRBlNJDu2OUSN__aBIHlRiT8Yfc2iA2FFpCg/s1600/P1000415.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhtQWA6F9J-DaTb3UMl8fU3PzGdjaIA-wMPVOJGda3iEpRhra0PGdwcSRZm4cjEdY6Jl0Das-oHalEPnPzHlmG_-krc7QeMAepqMKRBlNJDu2OUSN__aBIHlRiT8Yfc2iA2FFpCg/s400/P1000415.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6IQqFrium0O9c-C1qRWIyJtqZGqkjGFfaIYTqdRAhZojjywcbCJ3vprECuYf2WSJCcFRm6YZB0SBy6hdAyooe8tJ5l4rcVmuiJomfJGnVCHHT-JTdXR5XljGUjl_wxnbZlLf_vQ/s1600/P1000457.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6IQqFrium0O9c-C1qRWIyJtqZGqkjGFfaIYTqdRAhZojjywcbCJ3vprECuYf2WSJCcFRm6YZB0SBy6hdAyooe8tJ5l4rcVmuiJomfJGnVCHHT-JTdXR5XljGUjl_wxnbZlLf_vQ/s640/P1000457.jpg" width="425" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFk9DrxROgS_-CiA0AsDevcg5xlvXBuElj504Zw3yM1x4aMuWmZ0NuQvnhMtfizqSPoXkaN1fgAHBOAoPBFAWot8Ec52wMk4l1uXv2gI-kzGUQfyOmqSPeSzKU2cN3NkAvtv4KOQ/s1600/P1000943.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFk9DrxROgS_-CiA0AsDevcg5xlvXBuElj504Zw3yM1x4aMuWmZ0NuQvnhMtfizqSPoXkaN1fgAHBOAoPBFAWot8Ec52wMk4l1uXv2gI-kzGUQfyOmqSPeSzKU2cN3NkAvtv4KOQ/s400/P1000943.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
The route
came to be protected by the Knights Templar, and there are some impressive
castles en route, such as the one found in the town of Ponferrada.</div>
<div class="Body1">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
It's a
very popular trail, walked by thousands each year, and just one of the various
routes across Spain that take the pilgrim to Santiago. Many carry a pilgrim's
passport, the Credencial del Peregrino, and having obtained stamps in this
along the way as proof of passage, can obtain an 'indulgence' from the Catholic
Church, absolving the holder from their sins. Needless to say, as a very sinful
person, I have carried the passport along with me in the vain hope that I might
be forgiven by somebody...<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
The journey
from the UK took me to Madrid, and then by a fast train to Le<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">ó</span>n. Le<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">ó</span>n is an attractive town of
about 200,000 souls, with a vibrant and historic central district closed off to
traffic, and housing a magnificent cathedral and the Basilica of San Isidoro, this
hosting the tombs of the 30-odd Kings of Le<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">ó</span>n. A short distance outside
the historic centre is the impressive monastery of San Marcos, now housing a
luxury 'parador' hotel.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrjTcyeGsIzsBSQpGyxxA8yWISbgDtjOPgyKUtb7ioJvMkP94fzRryjqtpcbxqrnDRiDFjmkKKRcslW2QYJREN6s2EVLj9QfwHK5KI2ZZQOX6CuhQZE-W4u8xO21GrfjdZcp3RKg/s1600/P1000390.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrjTcyeGsIzsBSQpGyxxA8yWISbgDtjOPgyKUtb7ioJvMkP94fzRryjqtpcbxqrnDRiDFjmkKKRcslW2QYJREN6s2EVLj9QfwHK5KI2ZZQOX6CuhQZE-W4u8xO21GrfjdZcp3RKg/s400/P1000390.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Parador San Marcos</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
Once
again, I'm travelling with <a href="http://www.headwater.com/" target="_blank">Headwater</a>, who choose characterful hotels and arrange to have your
luggage moved on to the next one as you progress along the route. So, looking
forward to good accomodation, good food and a light rucksack along the way!<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDM621n_VSpnHJBNQzKeG7QtsAIjpY-aeKTE6Pt3JuxE5LJyA93BaWJ74I78Tk-tXSh8TfyofL76nU-7MyL7caPN_wtHUFS5b6Pgww5ZrjbtpDMhpksNKzpfU2iy8sZdHgzhNBiw/s1600/P1000411.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDM621n_VSpnHJBNQzKeG7QtsAIjpY-aeKTE6Pt3JuxE5LJyA93BaWJ74I78Tk-tXSh8TfyofL76nU-7MyL7caPN_wtHUFS5b6Pgww5ZrjbtpDMhpksNKzpfU2iy8sZdHgzhNBiw/s640/P1000411.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
I read
Paul Coelho's book <i>The Pilgrimage </i>on
my journey to Le<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">ó</span>n which gave me a flavour of
the privations necessary for a true pilgrim along the path, although, as usual,
Coelho left me exhausted and exasperated with his writing style. It's the story
of a chap trying to gain entry into an ancient Order of Knights, and goes
through a period of sometimes painful self-discovery as he is accompanied by
his 'Master' along the Road to Santiago. I suppose it stresses the importance
of compassion for all sentient beings, the nature of wisdom, the certainty of
death but the relative unimportance of this event given faith in the concept of
rebirth, the pivotal role of mindfulness, and following one's own intuition.
But, above all, the importance of using the wisdom and knowledge that you
accrue along the way. More to do when I get home then...<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
Le<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">ó</span>n is great at night, with the cathedral and many other
historic buildings, some by Gaudi, beautifully lit, and lively <i>plaza </i>with many bars and restaurants.
Most of the bars offer complimentary simple tapas with a drink ordered at the
bar. The place was buzzing at the end of a weekend festival, with a great
atmosphere and no drunken bother that you'd see in the UK.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmmks-7EzIkvzEU5pNQkz_SFBjXC_eBYNJjsLsdnoBnAWpoJ0JrTPdapvLfBa8acJJWRRr3WkBCmnieM-8NMX2Y9BexzALXqa0u0qwjSWQ6IHd4OBi1ksQiguO7mtVyCBd3qoazQ/s1600/P1000380.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmmks-7EzIkvzEU5pNQkz_SFBjXC_eBYNJjsLsdnoBnAWpoJ0JrTPdapvLfBa8acJJWRRr3WkBCmnieM-8NMX2Y9BexzALXqa0u0qwjSWQ6IHd4OBi1ksQiguO7mtVyCBd3qoazQ/s400/P1000380.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Santa Maria de León Cathedral</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOdE9-5cAdrulnrRdxcRtSETud0hcWNupNjQ8I5yNlXHugnybVdW-gPooLrKLQ797KG2p8xQmDbYG6pe9WOlBYB2dGWIbGEdLrIHi8sbIbrtlQ8M8I1oAzC5MBYaRgt_7rmN-SGQ/s1600/P1000383.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOdE9-5cAdrulnrRdxcRtSETud0hcWNupNjQ8I5yNlXHugnybVdW-gPooLrKLQ797KG2p8xQmDbYG6pe9WOlBYB2dGWIbGEdLrIHi8sbIbrtlQ8M8I1oAzC5MBYaRgt_7rmN-SGQ/s400/P1000383.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4oaGFK3Uun17dPMwfQJNg7eUb_NLR47HHbGOnXm7jUzfFcB_AvZXBvRKrVPYFE52DHtx1R9grSn0YBwqFIQC5uImdIuYu7LPk4xPrrIIDkHsHi0buUmod_CaSqjI_77TJ8qpztw/s1600/P1000386.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4oaGFK3Uun17dPMwfQJNg7eUb_NLR47HHbGOnXm7jUzfFcB_AvZXBvRKrVPYFE52DHtx1R9grSn0YBwqFIQC5uImdIuYu7LPk4xPrrIIDkHsHi0buUmod_CaSqjI_77TJ8qpztw/s640/P1000386.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">León by night, a Gaudi building to the right</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<b>Camino
Day 1</b><o:p></o:p><br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpG0c61CjsZoqZbaZ8Et6DEwsSc4QKse9rUL3rScHL-xxgroermxRTNBRavkKKjgPJ_ciKs07zHE12rhbYXS2JsN2Ghpa8tVX-oby8DnZNbrZVZaHiKINSLYoI0Va0sL_xBA-Idw/s1600/P1000439.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpG0c61CjsZoqZbaZ8Et6DEwsSc4QKse9rUL3rScHL-xxgroermxRTNBRavkKKjgPJ_ciKs07zHE12rhbYXS2JsN2Ghpa8tVX-oby8DnZNbrZVZaHiKINSLYoI0Va0sL_xBA-Idw/s400/P1000439.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside León Cathedral</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqdJMMMU2CYbXRhuOmBnY95tIaVyiwAA4b5hizU5IIq4SSxlhTivrTFtxqePL0BiKcX85QR9-9dwS0kjwylF8EToZqZljcEmOfb7ulZMZNYjRoRZ5P2zRhV16iO_Ymn_nU0RAR2Q/s1600/P1000448.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqdJMMMU2CYbXRhuOmBnY95tIaVyiwAA4b5hizU5IIq4SSxlhTivrTFtxqePL0BiKcX85QR9-9dwS0kjwylF8EToZqZljcEmOfb7ulZMZNYjRoRZ5P2zRhV16iO_Ymn_nU0RAR2Q/s400/P1000448.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">León, near the Pilgrim's Passport Issuing Office</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiqDHkNwL6rPQEuU6F-I2Qz5WA187X1qVnxp5a-c1b-U3mPJBhpuq7Cl3fKpS4WPekwdg8xGhVEHAfNv96VZtyGg0yHb4gFogrGOjGFZeZqX2CaIYtWhIVc0is2V00TjCI59Cruw/s1600/P1000450.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiqDHkNwL6rPQEuU6F-I2Qz5WA187X1qVnxp5a-c1b-U3mPJBhpuq7Cl3fKpS4WPekwdg8xGhVEHAfNv96VZtyGg0yHb4gFogrGOjGFZeZqX2CaIYtWhIVc0is2V00TjCI59Cruw/s400/P1000450.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Start point, Cruz de Ferro</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
The first
day on the Camino involved a one hour transfer westwards from Le<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">ó</span>n to the Cruz de Ferro, high up in the approaches to the
Cantabrian Mountains, an attractive ride across the northern 'paramo' or
plateau, with expansive views to the snow covered peaks of the Picos de Europa
in the north east and the wind farm speckled foothills of the Le<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">ó</span>n mountains.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
So, boots
on, and into a stiff wind that had reduced the temperature to 6 degrees C! A
bit of surprise, but much warmer as I descended to lower elevations later in
the day. Appealing
pine forests accompanied the path into Manjarin, home to a curious little
pilgrim's stop called Tomas' Place, festooned with flags outside and the
paraphernalia of the pilgrim inside, including the scallop shell which
symbolises this pilgrimage (the shell being the marker that you will have
reached the coast at Finisterre, just beyond Santiago de Compostela). The
scallop shell is found on signs that mark the Camino, although at times this
reduces to a simple yellow painted arrow.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZd_tuwH0XIK9uZl8d33nJHk9ZMjJD-h9Et3-Jn3KNfC53JEX6mig2W8zve04_oMa_ktjha7TDTtrViJ1tmvN4BbFK88wffJEDvw5UusmhUS4B_kEG9o0xe_sV8w8bAILxTwTIRA/s1600/P1000470.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZd_tuwH0XIK9uZl8d33nJHk9ZMjJD-h9Et3-Jn3KNfC53JEX6mig2W8zve04_oMa_ktjha7TDTtrViJ1tmvN4BbFK88wffJEDvw5UusmhUS4B_kEG9o0xe_sV8w8bAILxTwTIRA/s400/P1000470.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tomas' Place</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifpBpNjWZJbjOCOLKjv6AcstgU2Tulz7q2TPozeAU05Qle6F6b0RCpsxWjHk_yG6CQSiszhd3IIDVJ5N-pJLy0F8rFdsUJqo3ehZskpFP_6CDZmZ-mdCJuobt55Rn5rp-jCkJm-Q/s1600/P1000480.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifpBpNjWZJbjOCOLKjv6AcstgU2Tulz7q2TPozeAU05Qle6F6b0RCpsxWjHk_yG6CQSiszhd3IIDVJ5N-pJLy0F8rFdsUJqo3ehZskpFP_6CDZmZ-mdCJuobt55Rn5rp-jCkJm-Q/s400/P1000480.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiysNCiHyF1ziV7K0xGDf_RDtuRfaeK1O4SCTWt6ObeZZEzb82dNf6ujLGMBQ72N6Q3JpM7Nbzv9StiLT7hybttOJX6GqYsSRGLMYvIAMEAZfTBvtFz0fafNqmd5LYZJf32bNwtuw/s1600/P1000493.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiysNCiHyF1ziV7K0xGDf_RDtuRfaeK1O4SCTWt6ObeZZEzb82dNf6ujLGMBQ72N6Q3JpM7Nbzv9StiLT7hybttOJX6GqYsSRGLMYvIAMEAZfTBvtFz0fafNqmd5LYZJf32bNwtuw/s400/P1000493.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht7t_OJByxKTQ7DG2CzqW_zWAyMwSF5y-7jqiRM5-aw8uJ05p9kPpuu8c2ooFVlQF1flcWYYeELSVIzYS72-uSdGsl77yrKFm6QFq5FoOP27Phlu3uSUMUK7CEQwuLIxFkDaiF6g/s1600/P1000504.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht7t_OJByxKTQ7DG2CzqW_zWAyMwSF5y-7jqiRM5-aw8uJ05p9kPpuu8c2ooFVlQF1flcWYYeELSVIzYS72-uSdGsl77yrKFm6QFq5FoOP27Phlu3uSUMUK7CEQwuLIxFkDaiF6g/s400/P1000504.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
The trail
rose gently, with great views of the Cantabrian mountains from a broad ridge
that carried the path for much of the distance, before a sustained descent of
some 900m through verdant valleys to the little hamlet of Molinaseca, a total
distance of almost 19km for the day. Molinaseca is an attractive stopover, with
local specialities of smoked ham and fine pimentos (sweet red peppers) to
satisfy a hungry walker.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicO0emqrBTdLK8n3RHSAGoUaj9Wnbq5TO3tLhx9IT-tAp6k5MATN5WFYaNmH1uq47LV-GeZrZR57up31TvTsaAT5nHJen7pDmw3GAbBMwO-6WIR7tzamEostEKXj1sjoAWZogFNA/s1600/P1000522.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicO0emqrBTdLK8n3RHSAGoUaj9Wnbq5TO3tLhx9IT-tAp6k5MATN5WFYaNmH1uq47LV-GeZrZR57up31TvTsaAT5nHJen7pDmw3GAbBMwO-6WIR7tzamEostEKXj1sjoAWZogFNA/s400/P1000522.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approaching Molinaseca</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMxVGPIgWA9giDJzGXHoHUnLY7-4E8OhSZkTc7HyGamj7t4zi9BuZ_dUfeexXml6qbFx4PNxS7iYoLAQUOfloON5NoMFSsoESv4twmvoQyS5xzMkcpuYfXBRTPo_-myTZwU5ELjw/s1600/P1000524.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMxVGPIgWA9giDJzGXHoHUnLY7-4E8OhSZkTc7HyGamj7t4zi9BuZ_dUfeexXml6qbFx4PNxS7iYoLAQUOfloON5NoMFSsoESv4twmvoQyS5xzMkcpuYfXBRTPo_-myTZwU5ELjw/s400/P1000524.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR7QMWzx8dS8eOUeROdBoxNcovUiTaEbmOBQOV805YKm1Fr0OsxWxSryfD5pPdUt8A7jD0O3hHSuU9JzwOEtnxc0AlV_9pLyJbFIrmKeXxEwDfzlJsU965g5rVQFRU4WEvJ0hB_A/s1600/P1000528.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR7QMWzx8dS8eOUeROdBoxNcovUiTaEbmOBQOV805YKm1Fr0OsxWxSryfD5pPdUt8A7jD0O3hHSuU9JzwOEtnxc0AlV_9pLyJbFIrmKeXxEwDfzlJsU965g5rVQFRU4WEvJ0hB_A/s400/P1000528.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-8YFk8MHIH3t8V1Cfk-Tlqrd5Px0Qei5oBNjIC_70XzwVBdEHAboFbIRjfCtb1b0BL6mkWmaYXMuJs9bZ5tvzmCqvHJWeK9YH_woXcSj2-yI76cCPnUa-Dl0eKckONKUI-JZlYw/s1600/P1000530.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-8YFk8MHIH3t8V1Cfk-Tlqrd5Px0Qei5oBNjIC_70XzwVBdEHAboFbIRjfCtb1b0BL6mkWmaYXMuJs9bZ5tvzmCqvHJWeK9YH_woXcSj2-yI76cCPnUa-Dl0eKckONKUI-JZlYw/s400/P1000530.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicHIydUIltO5a_xTQyB_Agn9xe0_7yFITO2UX-4rnD_CYcbfUGeyB6iT19rXwKs9O2wZEVlhpeTBNovdjns425tOc-OepiFs0YeiMOW4XdoSeTSHjeRlWg71OqqkYrHko4teks5A/s1600/P1000539.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicHIydUIltO5a_xTQyB_Agn9xe0_7yFITO2UX-4rnD_CYcbfUGeyB6iT19rXwKs9O2wZEVlhpeTBNovdjns425tOc-OepiFs0YeiMOW4XdoSeTSHjeRlWg71OqqkYrHko4teks5A/s400/P1000539.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Molinaseca</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<b>Camino
Day 2</b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
The
second day on the path could not have been more different weather wise, with an
Atlantic front bringing early rain and cloud above 900m. Sunflowers with their
heads bowed to the ground rather said it all! So most of the day was like
walking through a long grey tunnel, but after a climb of some 600-700m the
reward was the historic village of O'Cebreiro, situated on top of an exposed ridge,
featuring stone houses with thatched roofs called <i>pallozas </i>and the oldest church on the French Road, Santa Maria la
Real, notable for a transformation of a peasant into the body of Christ, an
event marked in the 12th century by Queen Isabella who had a crystal reliquary
made to retain the items used during the Eucharist in which this event is said
to have occurred. <i> </i><i><o:p></o:p></i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYFzUdEi2N13izNHJaYJ5e1PRGvlK1Z5FrPCBb91oEJrKig2qlztpAgHxsxxgDY1n6JE_0uQJr39VfimMZNG1suoBWbRZlzVjYm9QyBpPFfX_OTHtPmAAJ8SQ_1MbfhjjUlPgkxQ/s1600/P1000540.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYFzUdEi2N13izNHJaYJ5e1PRGvlK1Z5FrPCBb91oEJrKig2qlztpAgHxsxxgDY1n6JE_0uQJr39VfimMZNG1suoBWbRZlzVjYm9QyBpPFfX_OTHtPmAAJ8SQ_1MbfhjjUlPgkxQ/s400/P1000540.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">12th century Templar Castle, Ponferrada</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF2l5rsGgGn-QFlpisQ3fFfabW8yicAtDwJUZ21d3PkGxWvFx-J28LXiZG2FbI2ohxfyglw3AXh5ZQHE5forlgs6Ro4A1eHsbJ-tXqtZFaJVCWd5AcqqqnRP3XmzguVCjk6379UQ/s1600/P1000543.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF2l5rsGgGn-QFlpisQ3fFfabW8yicAtDwJUZ21d3PkGxWvFx-J28LXiZG2FbI2ohxfyglw3AXh5ZQHE5forlgs6Ro4A1eHsbJ-tXqtZFaJVCWd5AcqqqnRP3XmzguVCjk6379UQ/s400/P1000543.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I know how they feel...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd2i-slhcD0_rG61tS-oQVHq81fV92yqY_s1TJcFILR1WsnU9Vi1UFnTqOKgAbrAIixQOzW5A9ZoeMJV3CMv89ylkPEZrq-eBGB4DrouZrkYpNPJ6EShPVHnTvjJUOlPhu4Un87Q/s1600/P1000545.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd2i-slhcD0_rG61tS-oQVHq81fV92yqY_s1TJcFILR1WsnU9Vi1UFnTqOKgAbrAIixQOzW5A9ZoeMJV3CMv89ylkPEZrq-eBGB4DrouZrkYpNPJ6EShPVHnTvjJUOlPhu4Un87Q/s400/P1000545.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwUSO9w9LS8XKAME8dyPrv6fwrQMQJK-PK2BDAz1tlgiYkfJTHwp8cmLvPRecNzChCD0RGn-20dbkw5u9PjIwDMV9daoyKedxiCeDOhqFidOEfGcJ6Z-vvBIIMImZxhM6DNjUPlA/s1600/P1000548.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwUSO9w9LS8XKAME8dyPrv6fwrQMQJK-PK2BDAz1tlgiYkfJTHwp8cmLvPRecNzChCD0RGn-20dbkw5u9PjIwDMV9daoyKedxiCeDOhqFidOEfGcJ6Z-vvBIIMImZxhM6DNjUPlA/s640/P1000548.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
Fortunately,
the clouds parted later in the day to give fine atmospheric views into the
Valcarce valley, a little reward at last! However, it is still overcast and the
wind has markedly increased. A stormy night ahead. Ah well, off to the bar
then...<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBE3jp7se3HhmykwCmV2rJ9yTdYikY6RLf_ekyObGGL6zN5664EZox5lPdrZxIPQOJH_JHmId4LyMIUQKOVn1m22oSJzOYrNmNQoTAnc5q8r5q5pWfdLUdxRHNCwzRI1u72Uc25g/s1600/P1000562.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBE3jp7se3HhmykwCmV2rJ9yTdYikY6RLf_ekyObGGL6zN5664EZox5lPdrZxIPQOJH_JHmId4LyMIUQKOVn1m22oSJzOYrNmNQoTAnc5q8r5q5pWfdLUdxRHNCwzRI1u72Uc25g/s400/P1000562.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Views from O 'Cebreiro</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0BIEmNO4Bwe2CwNUhsu9TV7-xFxo42YfhSd-UoJmwr-KQqbuE33Dgn9qcbWxT7ymejnQtjVwKQmGsZfez2RfP7U5vitFTIFfj1kDRoWe3g8JAXfmn1cBAtHYnAHqLdoVcLctJsg/s1600/P1000573.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0BIEmNO4Bwe2CwNUhsu9TV7-xFxo42YfhSd-UoJmwr-KQqbuE33Dgn9qcbWxT7ymejnQtjVwKQmGsZfez2RfP7U5vitFTIFfj1kDRoWe3g8JAXfmn1cBAtHYnAHqLdoVcLctJsg/s400/P1000573.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrpivc_mtTmNG1cTqwKU9I2txLuBHBc-Lq2Ej_1eRUiQi34VdOZo-tYes6uNiA_8VMJfvo9da_SVim8RlibabECX_Glwg18RFN49jv-cuN-DN94CF0JWVaCWpaHkCBrMKoiYhYEw/s1600/P1000581.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrpivc_mtTmNG1cTqwKU9I2txLuBHBc-Lq2Ej_1eRUiQi34VdOZo-tYes6uNiA_8VMJfvo9da_SVim8RlibabECX_Glwg18RFN49jv-cuN-DN94CF0JWVaCWpaHkCBrMKoiYhYEw/s400/P1000581.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My diet is working...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnyWCzkNEA2ikeAFKigfLQeWDCozsVsz5lSvHCkAZhWiM9FRpIr8167s2eFah7epH3j0uRbYMUvS4WgQKSGtyG1Q2dPV4gEzZ_IkJ3QaDMJw5RvtNrOh5vRtn4Kwov0YV6DII0Lg/s1600/P1000618.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnyWCzkNEA2ikeAFKigfLQeWDCozsVsz5lSvHCkAZhWiM9FRpIr8167s2eFah7epH3j0uRbYMUvS4WgQKSGtyG1Q2dPV4gEzZ_IkJ3QaDMJw5RvtNrOh5vRtn4Kwov0YV6DII0Lg/s400/P1000618.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6bjPpB31eq3XYLsPy_Eo8ws8HaM05Uscj90ZH7A7l_05185nnp8PpaFC4jNjW2h69fpGKqfWmQIjX8NNRAbv3oyb4YUTd7ueRtfcsxkOierJRoHm0OMbnnNxuuBOC8EOaIstwIw/s1600/P1000632.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6bjPpB31eq3XYLsPy_Eo8ws8HaM05Uscj90ZH7A7l_05185nnp8PpaFC4jNjW2h69fpGKqfWmQIjX8NNRAbv3oyb4YUTd7ueRtfcsxkOierJRoHm0OMbnnNxuuBOC8EOaIstwIw/s400/P1000632.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">O Cebreiro</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzKZo4RDPq4KzyQbt2jCHnpxXl1B-jaO_exwxFsdwr4tntSFe3RsZogqOVdx87dyE13QYJNuGU9wV9pasoIOCel7xk-OEwYecECYNxTLG45hlP8UjCeais08ywt9k1gb2iMK1FDQ/s1600/P1000634.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzKZo4RDPq4KzyQbt2jCHnpxXl1B-jaO_exwxFsdwr4tntSFe3RsZogqOVdx87dyE13QYJNuGU9wV9pasoIOCel7xk-OEwYecECYNxTLG45hlP8UjCeais08ywt9k1gb2iMK1FDQ/s400/P1000634.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQlStqTu7G9pMsZ61JHQrXI_zoqc9yKABc7bRRjbd3mcsuOkPKl4BsXLWShrQWuSXuPos-hgLr7go-Y4lFdR4-RBBOiO27iswjHRYUHEphukvb11rjMiRm6rJ-_WNpnv5xk9Zm7w/s1600/P1000582.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQlStqTu7G9pMsZ61JHQrXI_zoqc9yKABc7bRRjbd3mcsuOkPKl4BsXLWShrQWuSXuPos-hgLr7go-Y4lFdR4-RBBOiO27iswjHRYUHEphukvb11rjMiRm6rJ-_WNpnv5xk9Zm7w/s400/P1000582.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A palloza in O Cebreiro</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
My hotel
turned out to be the busiest in O'Cebreiro, early evening filled with locals,
many of the chaps sporting distinctive bushy moustaches in keeping with local
tradition, and fully occupied in the serious business of playing cards and
drinking vino tinto. Food included more local ham, and some delicious soft
cheese served with honey. Yum.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<b>Camino
Day 3</b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
Day three
on the path started a little further to the west after another transfer,
crossing a high point on the road at over 1300m, before descending to my start
point for the day at Triacastela. It had been a stormy night, as predicted, and
the day started with the cloud base at around 900m and continuous light rain
which was to become a lot heavier on the approach to Sarria, today's end point.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
Yesterday
I had crossed the border into the region of Galicia, the most north-westerly
part of Spain and the wettest. It rather reminds you of Devon in the UK, with
rolling hills, albeit at a higher elevation here, populated by herds of dairy
and beef cattle. Dense woodland comprising oak and chestnut features here, and
maize and marrow crops were seen in abundance at the lower levels. And then there's
the rain. Yes, very like Devon!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
This was
to be a zero photograph day, a rare event, and my overnight stop was high in
the hills above Sarria at a delightful little hideaway called Rectoral de
Goian, an old stone parsonage 8km from the town. Very peaceful, and just right
for a well-deserved nap! The food here is superb. Recommended.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvolELR7LqpIMtmQQr2Z3XoYM6mf9eMAAjkzC_XW7QhKiAzgTaXV9It3jYn_V19JMxQnl7g9OxPccdYHVc6rzyiZ53M6-PP6Df1Tux37owN6E98AxW2oVLUpKUxzj3jNhUvSDhBQ/s1600/P1000649.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvolELR7LqpIMtmQQr2Z3XoYM6mf9eMAAjkzC_XW7QhKiAzgTaXV9It3jYn_V19JMxQnl7g9OxPccdYHVc6rzyiZ53M6-PP6Df1Tux37owN6E98AxW2oVLUpKUxzj3jNhUvSDhBQ/s400/P1000649.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Rectoral de Goian</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<b>Camino
Day 4</b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
Early the
following day I was dropped off at a small Roman bridge to continue the walk.
From Sarria, I was immediately surprised by the number of pilgrims and walkers
joining the path here. I suppose we are about to reach the final 100km of the
Way before Santiago de Compostela, and this is the 'qualifying distance' for
the 'indulgence' referred to earlier. You need at least two stamps per day in
your <i>Credencial del Peregrino</i> to
qualify, so I'd better be diligent now if I want to be forgiven!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuug6dMTO-vdUkCH54hSQR1pXWts0zT7JT5u9RBzNWR94OwXxFD116TPSPLRikTQUlBrEWUNSTJcVcQECEXENu0rJk7Shchz2R2X2Nepf1x0AfrLxp9RA0J_4cHhk4q-bheNfY7A/s1600/P1000663.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuug6dMTO-vdUkCH54hSQR1pXWts0zT7JT5u9RBzNWR94OwXxFD116TPSPLRikTQUlBrEWUNSTJcVcQECEXENu0rJk7Shchz2R2X2Nepf1x0AfrLxp9RA0J_4cHhk4q-bheNfY7A/s640/P1000663.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Only 100km to Santiago de Compostela!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
I saw
hundreds of walkers spread out along the path today, old and young, including
an American lad of seven travelling with his mum and grandfather (having
started in Pamplona three weeks earlier), and Americans and Australians seemed
to be the dominant nationalities. It never ceases to amaze me that folks still
insist on shuffling along in full waterproof gear, even when the weather is
being kind. It's been dry today, albeit overcast, but the forecast is good and
a glimmer of blue sky was even spotted to the west! <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgid2OYmMGW6eQlreCtYcUGKb9mvvJROma9ezhZPbZXKD_0s5phHE8vBHR_f2BFoSROMFJCb2_-bVpaDSWmZT847FdV8YBp8v5Z-pfXPzv5Z77Yupg7KqZoZu72XKksdCQuKbdGeQ/s1600/P1000654.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgid2OYmMGW6eQlreCtYcUGKb9mvvJROma9ezhZPbZXKD_0s5phHE8vBHR_f2BFoSROMFJCb2_-bVpaDSWmZT847FdV8YBp8v5Z-pfXPzv5Z77Yupg7KqZoZu72XKksdCQuKbdGeQ/s400/P1000654.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh24Npb8gCUXZcXaRz9_5YuC0vSf6bPUwecCoCI0_MZOp9JHHe81UwdMHVKeRbIacHH8sxirtoJWfVRSbAvtOkBFzIplM5iNFKL1HOL8k8AprQBYh0RXfbi2y1JXYT-Rr7lOM5I9A/s1600/P1000657.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh24Npb8gCUXZcXaRz9_5YuC0vSf6bPUwecCoCI0_MZOp9JHHe81UwdMHVKeRbIacHH8sxirtoJWfVRSbAvtOkBFzIplM5iNFKL1HOL8k8AprQBYh0RXfbi2y1JXYT-Rr7lOM5I9A/s400/P1000657.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Galician grain dryer, seen throughout the region</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSLDgQfIQ_LhGegkUJB-H_LGRfTAi4u2Iz2vrTwilLnkzwcDow6BDPD5LBWs_TMoHHoCQlwe0PbrG1bvSwop68XjdAogfUjtVYzBfp-k4GKBDDO2Shw6ahKcMPQQyy-h8KII8FZQ/s1600/P1000660.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSLDgQfIQ_LhGegkUJB-H_LGRfTAi4u2Iz2vrTwilLnkzwcDow6BDPD5LBWs_TMoHHoCQlwe0PbrG1bvSwop68XjdAogfUjtVYzBfp-k4GKBDDO2Shw6ahKcMPQQyy-h8KII8FZQ/s400/P1000660.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS4tD033BPfZbI7yb5R63E98xTF8LwwBqAZ5ElmldMTjYX5nFBwhVWKgDQdEkm4QBaoH4dvuYEbWJJUvY_pMcLNyH5Wuiejufn3jXK_8g6d-keKZjUftTabFxKBFnupx3xmhHw_A/s1600/P1000671.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS4tD033BPfZbI7yb5R63E98xTF8LwwBqAZ5ElmldMTjYX5nFBwhVWKgDQdEkm4QBaoH4dvuYEbWJJUvY_pMcLNyH5Wuiejufn3jXK_8g6d-keKZjUftTabFxKBFnupx3xmhHw_A/s400/P1000671.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the Camino...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXC69AwdkKpVDerKaX21xSlNcLf3-G78P4SZl9BGrRO2PozqHo0KVqpmQRHpZAY2uzS2nLQ-Y5711clFb49uvz2q1x6KQh0bxjOEUewAzwBAE3CvArwy1gPmCyyfLwerkJfdJd3g/s1600/P1000675.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXC69AwdkKpVDerKaX21xSlNcLf3-G78P4SZl9BGrRO2PozqHo0KVqpmQRHpZAY2uzS2nLQ-Y5711clFb49uvz2q1x6KQh0bxjOEUewAzwBAE3CvArwy1gPmCyyfLwerkJfdJd3g/s640/P1000675.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8Xs1CB5N061znnb6ZR1SKxLIiJ7xtPY-wQByRgXn7m451tuuHZ4g2AKm9zovZBITj44VwpyfkT3s8ODWmpPtTBje1FYOISuG06vLlSJzZcKrwblGceTlsHxVn19Ho5MjyEzvsKw/s1600/P1000677.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8Xs1CB5N061znnb6ZR1SKxLIiJ7xtPY-wQByRgXn7m451tuuHZ4g2AKm9zovZBITj44VwpyfkT3s8ODWmpPtTBje1FYOISuG06vLlSJzZcKrwblGceTlsHxVn19Ho5MjyEzvsKw/s400/P1000677.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
The
terrain is now rolling dairy country interspersed with stands of oak and
chestnut. It was very pleasant, with relatively easy walking, and a distance of
over 22km today to reach the riverside town of Portomarin. It's an unimpressive
town, overlooking a reservoir that hasn't filled this year because of low
rainfall levels, so revealing the original medieval bridge under the more
modern counterpart - a rare sight, apparently.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmY-xgfgtvJfdGTKwoRjBRHY6JLaHMOYrtPR78tUneMgngW1hozYSXrCofaROzgYU7HymqNtvAsZKfA938mYzteyaL6JUOQ7QngoRVaEImVKBOF4U75NxjtngzI_L4nyb6X48O5Q/s1600/P1000686.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmY-xgfgtvJfdGTKwoRjBRHY6JLaHMOYrtPR78tUneMgngW1hozYSXrCofaROzgYU7HymqNtvAsZKfA938mYzteyaL6JUOQ7QngoRVaEImVKBOF4U75NxjtngzI_L4nyb6X48O5Q/s400/P1000686.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmxb7MTCCvCWSGzCDWzDaUUbXyBUHcqSZySZ-DewXaRTlBYT6p9aDm-2SDgmvAg0mMqqWbsMeEm2HdHAnT2pj2F1q9EKkadikHBubWfJ2yiavag9WGWX48b_LO1R6O1ub6iX6wsw/s1600/P1000690.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmxb7MTCCvCWSGzCDWzDaUUbXyBUHcqSZySZ-DewXaRTlBYT6p9aDm-2SDgmvAg0mMqqWbsMeEm2HdHAnT2pj2F1q9EKkadikHBubWfJ2yiavag9WGWX48b_LO1R6O1ub6iX6wsw/s400/P1000690.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgII4289Q61ubx7Qevd1ZL-xQX-zpqgUMpjRlmSJq4i3KTjwWunjACjhl5l6fqo1d9aKyIwU-S9OFOO_5P9442h2ZFEYspGy8RH2oWQzeYBf5tvAzVZh09TRbh4wIMhlaI1lTT43A/s1600/P1000692.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgII4289Q61ubx7Qevd1ZL-xQX-zpqgUMpjRlmSJq4i3KTjwWunjACjhl5l6fqo1d9aKyIwU-S9OFOO_5P9442h2ZFEYspGy8RH2oWQzeYBf5tvAzVZh09TRbh4wIMhlaI1lTT43A/s400/P1000692.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Portomarin</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
My
lodgings were a little out of town, the characterful Casa Rural Santa Marina,
set in its own vineyards. Sustenance, with vegetables, tomatoes and potatoes
from their own garden, and wine and a schnapps from their own vines, was excellent.
Simple but very flavoursome. Recommended.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<b>Camino
Day 5</b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
Another
day beckons, another 20km plus to do. I seem to be walking in a 'pod' of
walkers now, most of whom I had seen the day before. Everyone seemed to set off
at 9 a.m. so it required a lot of overtaking to get the trail to myself.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
Fat
chance. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
This, for
me, is the one downside of the Camino...I like walking in relative isolation,
but on this route that's never going to happen, even in the colder months. But
there's a kind of community growing, familiar faces, a little bonhomie, the
familiar exchange of the greeting 'Buen Camino', or a simple 'hola', and
admiration for folks who are clearly struggling with the distance, the
interminable hills, or some other disability. I even passed a family early on
today, on a rising forest track, with a young child on his father's shoulders
and another, younger, sibling in a push chair. Rather them than me!<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh79Z7PRivRmGb2QB8MeWQ4BPR6lagaFE-KuU1A3tLZTBa2YcFuH632nofMfBdGW7P99cqxW2A_Bev6MVXOaJ3Z_4Pi7fEvkgmFUdfdYd_o44hJIQTo_2eeV87tBbG0EUrdy71vJg/s1600/P1000730.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh79Z7PRivRmGb2QB8MeWQ4BPR6lagaFE-KuU1A3tLZTBa2YcFuH632nofMfBdGW7P99cqxW2A_Bev6MVXOaJ3Z_4Pi7fEvkgmFUdfdYd_o44hJIQTo_2eeV87tBbG0EUrdy71vJg/s400/P1000730.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0OSZSdrLEgjExcnF7Yx1KSVekwilXgKPWhMvbNJhM22m6wN1HjrJHf4PvhMrUC565KmwPTU-PenG3feLNQVpqXeVJaaCiKqUkQpcmOX0FLK7dVySOGyk3hm9KvpxsfaJSSMCVNQ/s1600/P1000732.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0OSZSdrLEgjExcnF7Yx1KSVekwilXgKPWhMvbNJhM22m6wN1HjrJHf4PvhMrUC565KmwPTU-PenG3feLNQVpqXeVJaaCiKqUkQpcmOX0FLK7dVySOGyk3hm9KvpxsfaJSSMCVNQ/s400/P1000732.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Autumnal glory on the Camino</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0gLbDSsmR0W9_Fipo2vsw1VQUjAQiqgq9APK_QaTOndu7EicEcIupiFNqq2OQavb3JDxx97AXIaPus0DOfz9MbDbyt_sdywk2C_H31I3GJdn128EM8iH-7qizHBMFUu8fcuOAwA/s1600/P1000738.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0gLbDSsmR0W9_Fipo2vsw1VQUjAQiqgq9APK_QaTOndu7EicEcIupiFNqq2OQavb3JDxx97AXIaPus0DOfz9MbDbyt_sdywk2C_H31I3GJdn128EM8iH-7qizHBMFUu8fcuOAwA/s400/P1000738.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Q2WjelUFi4N5JJqrf4-VL_F6Ss2k3i5bSnNJXwdo6hJqf9Hrv1DqMtvL7NINK3i7r0Y1nvVRX_fg0mKoDbcc2G0JKDywZbrED4ocZM63_HOCFH13RRjoUSihl-X452kc_UErVw/s1600/P1000740.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Q2WjelUFi4N5JJqrf4-VL_F6Ss2k3i5bSnNJXwdo6hJqf9Hrv1DqMtvL7NINK3i7r0Y1nvVRX_fg0mKoDbcc2G0JKDywZbrED4ocZM63_HOCFH13RRjoUSihl-X452kc_UErVw/s400/P1000740.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJva5AICQ3SUtHnyk-rX54X6gevn_fq_mrAVtorOLH_b1WN3Q7pv4jyRNQlpaflXuxcS8M5UkKvW8Qoawji14Orrlfm-EAfJRnWhSj8dYqchyphenhyphenQ7con8ISycnEdO11xoza9Q8IzdA/s1600/P1000743.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJva5AICQ3SUtHnyk-rX54X6gevn_fq_mrAVtorOLH_b1WN3Q7pv4jyRNQlpaflXuxcS8M5UkKvW8Qoawji14Orrlfm-EAfJRnWhSj8dYqchyphenhyphenQ7con8ISycnEdO11xoza9Q8IzdA/s400/P1000743.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOvez9MGwrGQcs15ebSqc8_iRSwgM5IxHNwEvCwIpzfgB2-NftXMNaHJNdZvPl2IzWaa2o4Xcyb90XW1NC-SUEJTo7Mn4nJf-Lu3arqRs9YdVVgV1RqqBycD7stDea99XNM_Jh1Q/s1600/P1000745.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOvez9MGwrGQcs15ebSqc8_iRSwgM5IxHNwEvCwIpzfgB2-NftXMNaHJNdZvPl2IzWaa2o4Xcyb90XW1NC-SUEJTo7Mn4nJf-Lu3arqRs9YdVVgV1RqqBycD7stDea99XNM_Jh1Q/s640/P1000745.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxg27onnRg8dHZBQTQLvjntY5EZ0HrwuKzLWwMSqWBbglSPwm8BVDbHsouu4MjRk2aUPgIcgdPf1MdR72COryob0zk_fZ2iYL8fbrzW0nfSl1A7OGSJAc8dv5LUGoCgHbneGqvxQ/s1600/P1000752.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxg27onnRg8dHZBQTQLvjntY5EZ0HrwuKzLWwMSqWBbglSPwm8BVDbHsouu4MjRk2aUPgIcgdPf1MdR72COryob0zk_fZ2iYL8fbrzW0nfSl1A7OGSJAc8dv5LUGoCgHbneGqvxQ/s400/P1000752.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Today's
route from Portomarin to the fine Rectoral de Lestado, near Palas del Rei, is
about 21km, with a sustained but easy uphill for the first 13km. The weather
could best be described as 'brightening fog', which finally cleared just before
midday to reveal rolling hills, pine forest interspersed with newly planted
stands of eucalypts, with bracken and heather on the higher elevations. As I
arrived in Lestado, three buzzards soared overhead, almost as if to mark my
arrival. The Rectoral is in a fine old stone building but the interiors are
'understated modernity', cleverly done, and the public rooms have fine views to
the hills eastwards. A very chilled spot to restore an aching body. I might
even try to meditate later...<o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi675xOIun-OHRgOlFiYywOVkhRIITgzGsIKZBebtYhHnfIF-1jrEktNXsWeWSWStjjwZwo0BlQPdRCD_955lnF3gzDvak-sFr29wyk6zSnRTPE7yb20fgGmiuS8yxezZ0VnURSaA/s1600/P1000756.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi675xOIun-OHRgOlFiYywOVkhRIITgzGsIKZBebtYhHnfIF-1jrEktNXsWeWSWStjjwZwo0BlQPdRCD_955lnF3gzDvak-sFr29wyk6zSnRTPE7yb20fgGmiuS8yxezZ0VnURSaA/s400/P1000756.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the rooms at the Rectoral de Lestado</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<b>Camino
Day 6</b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
...well I
didn't. I just enjoyed some good food and an early night in the Rectoral,
awakening to clear blue skies and a slight frost on the nearby meadow. In the
distance, early morning fog was busy making up its mind to clear. The Way was
essentially clear of pilgrims when I started off, most of them starting from
the small town of Palas del Rei 4km further to the west. So, apart from a few
annoying dogs, it was a beautiful autumnal morning to start day six of the
walk, fresh air, a few crows and the odd chirp from a robin to break the
silence. A falling chestnut was enough to make you jump!<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivfD5eIOBfN4NVgU4n3odw6anDFtLKw1derqJKaA5jV5CpN7dCo6tWxKNNi0KNDsKGSnNzpXUzNVCfrEO-fhHl72LWdECwXvrRtQZBC-iDWsByb0Ow28a4WB961r37aaUk8_lZpw/s1600/P1000779.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivfD5eIOBfN4NVgU4n3odw6anDFtLKw1derqJKaA5jV5CpN7dCo6tWxKNNi0KNDsKGSnNzpXUzNVCfrEO-fhHl72LWdECwXvrRtQZBC-iDWsByb0Ow28a4WB961r37aaUk8_lZpw/s400/P1000779.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyAoPBji_gpC0EQyaHIWDTHbsWg2NB_N58UVTPkJeerVaUI4GHXn_OS9oXwVWktHYbFBx6AnjFOD2of-RGsJ7rg97t0ofUfJg4oZHMhu7H8RuUWV2QSgJfSH5tVINVjVJK5ACRDA/s1600/P1000798.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyAoPBji_gpC0EQyaHIWDTHbsWg2NB_N58UVTPkJeerVaUI4GHXn_OS9oXwVWktHYbFBx6AnjFOD2of-RGsJ7rg97t0ofUfJg4oZHMhu7H8RuUWV2QSgJfSH5tVINVjVJK5ACRDA/s400/P1000798.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoi8TI00TmfbGZ9i1dtonOfBFfSLRckcmNhUANhKq9VL7oQJq5PhEgjwiIIm7boQS-uJmPRD3ggRbAco32zAXXTRPXIBv251Gy2APYiAADsuy3GRqDUxRSTSOHPFl-2Ri8mXcaIw/s1600/P1000809.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoi8TI00TmfbGZ9i1dtonOfBFfSLRckcmNhUANhKq9VL7oQJq5PhEgjwiIIm7boQS-uJmPRD3ggRbAco32zAXXTRPXIBv251Gy2APYiAADsuy3GRqDUxRSTSOHPFl-2Ri8mXcaIw/s640/P1000809.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7MCQxN9G-n3jSmv1QP5DKfAzjINSEb-P3GC6pC3HMCv3cErWTXNSfJGhhZipH2h_QayybURSXLoGSrb9Y3EZiseZv-kZeb0IgSKlZraF8jhfw70-St2NH5XW5P4ZZ1yW8b6DWtQ/s1600/P1000819.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7MCQxN9G-n3jSmv1QP5DKfAzjINSEb-P3GC6pC3HMCv3cErWTXNSfJGhhZipH2h_QayybURSXLoGSrb9Y3EZiseZv-kZeb0IgSKlZraF8jhfw70-St2NH5XW5P4ZZ1yW8b6DWtQ/s400/P1000819.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVtHS7QF52fF_sDcTF9MFl39kaKQZYaSlyjhhCTXKLa4pRCRtB7UiuED1fKDJCgHXbyVI75C2X4_90Z1DYF8ayoqDlJbV07MjrRTOiMGCJef4ZHm3MozHbMNllC4KC0we-j8fUsQ/s1600/P1000834.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVtHS7QF52fF_sDcTF9MFl39kaKQZYaSlyjhhCTXKLa4pRCRtB7UiuED1fKDJCgHXbyVI75C2X4_90Z1DYF8ayoqDlJbV07MjrRTOiMGCJef4ZHm3MozHbMNllC4KC0we-j8fUsQ/s640/P1000834.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
<br />
It's a
fairly short (13.8km) walk today, on easy ground with a few ups and downs,
across rolling fields and through eucalyptus and oak woods, the latter with
leaves just turning to a rusty hue.</div>
<div class="Body1">
<o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
My
accommodation for the night is the Casa de Los Somoza in O Coto, a rustic
Turismo Rural, with real character. And a good drop of beer too! A relaxing
afternoon beckons...</div>
<div class="Body1">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
...and
then the two affable American priests arrived. A couple of middle-aged chaps,
now full time Catholic priests in Virginia, one early retired after selling his
own business, and the other, an ex-roadie for U2. I enjoyed an entertaining
hour discussing the emergence of personal spirituality, of being a 'seeker',
and their view that their God will find me one day. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
Perhaps. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
Nonetheless,
it was a pleasant conversation, and thought-provoking for my part and (I hope)
theirs. They tootled off, sore muscles and blisters reminding them of the
struggle ahead, certainly a physical one
over the kilometres to come, and also perhaps metaphorically for the survival
of the institution they represent, as it is so clear that the under '40s of
today are now leading a wholly secular existence, as the ageing priests,
congregations and physical structures of the many small churches along the Way
bear testimony. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<b>Camino
Day 7</b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZGjRxgu6gRkZIql4GSVRcE4PXx6aY_GyC8pAwiTzWfB1WlPvgagjEXPgbBJHk7ZkvE8L4MafGLmcxsGhZbURVA82R043NjxU-5A29JOV1zzZ8l1xwJnCXByd0Mybr9nuF-rFApw/s1600/P1000837.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZGjRxgu6gRkZIql4GSVRcE4PXx6aY_GyC8pAwiTzWfB1WlPvgagjEXPgbBJHk7ZkvE8L4MafGLmcxsGhZbURVA82R043NjxU-5A29JOV1zzZ8l1xwJnCXByd0Mybr9nuF-rFApw/s640/P1000837.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
It's now
Sunday. And another 21km day ahead. A bright start, but now feeling very
autumnal, with the first sign of leaves starting to fall in earnest. An
undulating route took me through the market town of Melide, apparently famed
for serving octopus in the local restaurants (although a bit too early in the
day for me!), and across a series of ridges and valleys all the way to Arz<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">ú</span>a. I walked in almost complete isolation today, a pleasant
change, although it did feel a bit spooky in some of the more secluded forest
sections. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-UHAQZhVvlirYEy6z_61YUfmrYRxY-SB0h0AURnEXx1WZ55U2P638-Zj_kFIO_HDXJBUxRi69ZDXZcuvxpitqlAmdbKxHnEoSAYHAtrtdlNJd3T6JODtMj2354pTYFVLK-yrsSg/s1600/P1000852.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-UHAQZhVvlirYEy6z_61YUfmrYRxY-SB0h0AURnEXx1WZ55U2P638-Zj_kFIO_HDXJBUxRi69ZDXZcuvxpitqlAmdbKxHnEoSAYHAtrtdlNJd3T6JODtMj2354pTYFVLK-yrsSg/s400/P1000852.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMHOG9Um5MRgh7ubyHwVYVZXTW-KiQVrzplWFTu_oTn_VHiA-x5KYDSzWk-dWxV4b5g5xiaN7r6acl77Ai3e93APDKTspo6wRIrYe1vIShPBz3j2YT7ACYPv9C7E26NGY9deWDew/s1600/P1000851.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMHOG9Um5MRgh7ubyHwVYVZXTW-KiQVrzplWFTu_oTn_VHiA-x5KYDSzWk-dWxV4b5g5xiaN7r6acl77Ai3e93APDKTspo6wRIrYe1vIShPBz3j2YT7ACYPv9C7E26NGY9deWDew/s400/P1000851.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh__x9jmh3s4Zh1h4rfpCPM8s48vSifCxapUl2WVQgP5e75JcDfCN2-Wi6Su2OlBXO-ynnevkCljXKaWlER4m2s_B8ifD5CW8SAx9hvDpGGx6bmoXYvnqnbvSPuu-4_bVeIky1CdA/s1600/P1000841.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh__x9jmh3s4Zh1h4rfpCPM8s48vSifCxapUl2WVQgP5e75JcDfCN2-Wi6Su2OlBXO-ynnevkCljXKaWlER4m2s_B8ifD5CW8SAx9hvDpGGx6bmoXYvnqnbvSPuu-4_bVeIky1CdA/s400/P1000841.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrvbdPWUhcJD0If-eTJJeog15ZQIUeDRls_ed00fJYf62Pa4XPhHifJlyxHRfsyK6Ef2af39tOjjSAPBGoTsY0q3fH13QcH_EhYznatSx7RUVMJaLrV1qNhkulFN3942_YtIVNcg/s1600/P1000853.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrvbdPWUhcJD0If-eTJJeog15ZQIUeDRls_ed00fJYf62Pa4XPhHifJlyxHRfsyK6Ef2af39tOjjSAPBGoTsY0q3fH13QcH_EhYznatSx7RUVMJaLrV1qNhkulFN3942_YtIVNcg/s400/P1000853.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjARFd8XRnkrmRCCk0x6aKjfAhQIkGSWu70oRdORBwKFXr4Z7fZFBvyyRvJdxPrp1e2JKT78-gK8-ZrDfUB0sTIQmwn6dCRbvPpeFrA903wC8tXf5CZyactW8fQQ0Lb7DFNRtdVMw/s1600/P1000857.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjARFd8XRnkrmRCCk0x6aKjfAhQIkGSWu70oRdORBwKFXr4Z7fZFBvyyRvJdxPrp1e2JKT78-gK8-ZrDfUB0sTIQmwn6dCRbvPpeFrA903wC8tXf5CZyactW8fQQ0Lb7DFNRtdVMw/s640/P1000857.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Typical Galician country...oak, eucalyptus, chestnut and maize</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaqagkyVor7GTJEXcmNxeKnEUHgvXYUB_gBtYpVkNfByQTHZLu522B7p7-iYOPm-qSUSMYSYexbks0p9SqYtJKTA-aEJ0FFopmCiM_gEVqUoHvvuhkEjYF5qtTZjOkXwLjqmrnZg/s1600/P1000861.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaqagkyVor7GTJEXcmNxeKnEUHgvXYUB_gBtYpVkNfByQTHZLu522B7p7-iYOPm-qSUSMYSYexbks0p9SqYtJKTA-aEJ0FFopmCiM_gEVqUoHvvuhkEjYF5qtTZjOkXwLjqmrnZg/s400/P1000861.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rio Iso</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5-06ox3ypm1AGhBzQN1ad13_cLhjv4ZZGOTLsDCImaNwWS-5DaLtawPoYltxqIM7zU0V4lT4KUIRNf9djt0hj19E7axjzqydFAnR3A45FMnaMGXZICLknZwFbun2JhEMPDXxu8g/s1600/P1000866.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5-06ox3ypm1AGhBzQN1ad13_cLhjv4ZZGOTLsDCImaNwWS-5DaLtawPoYltxqIM7zU0V4lT4KUIRNf9djt0hj19E7axjzqydFAnR3A45FMnaMGXZICLknZwFbun2JhEMPDXxu8g/s400/P1000866.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Santiago
de Compostela is nearing. It seems almost impossible that I've been walking
solidly for seven days in a row, but there's a kind of rhythm attached to
multi-day walking, and many hours can be spent in a kind of meditational trance
as you amble along the trail. Very soporific, as the inevitable afternoon nap
testified!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<b>Camino
Day 8</b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
The high,
wispy cirrus clouds building over Arz<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">ú</span>a yesterday presaged today's
weather, a red dawn breaking over Arz<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">ú</span>a behind me as I began my
penultimate day on the Way, with intermittent light showers. The old legs ached
a bit today, and although this is a relatively easy stage, sometimes it felt
like interval training, dropping down into one valley and then crossing a ridge
to the next. Today's walk was not especially exciting, more woodland today,
including some very high eucalypts and paths thick with fallen chestnut shells.
Lunch was good though, a veal cutlet with local 'Pimientos de Padr<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">ó</span>n', delicious small green peppers of the region.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM7YFNroLxeOYWQPs9JP4BTyjy2fpdb_z_Lop0nY3TLjKImdsdRzm0J_Y-JDuxDNzhxVbhPoVPmMyZ_TMzUzUh7lPxOYC1xVAwYKcjMzUN6EnBiINkb9cs1RXaigtYXE1WmwVRHA/s1600/P1000521.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM7YFNroLxeOYWQPs9JP4BTyjy2fpdb_z_Lop0nY3TLjKImdsdRzm0J_Y-JDuxDNzhxVbhPoVPmMyZ_TMzUzUh7lPxOYC1xVAwYKcjMzUN6EnBiINkb9cs1RXaigtYXE1WmwVRHA/s400/P1000521.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9dZiB91hQeniAFfW0k0Rm7GPamG9qD5F9LOCDETZvZ_NGzC49YmriQ1idJqopCgq1AixbriKgg5sUW8KKzKzClGoQuTWjwlRpiTgcwG72tAZtkHFXMCJn6-UF4fL0anhTdcJpMg/s1600/P1000891.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9dZiB91hQeniAFfW0k0Rm7GPamG9qD5F9LOCDETZvZ_NGzC49YmriQ1idJqopCgq1AixbriKgg5sUW8KKzKzClGoQuTWjwlRpiTgcwG72tAZtkHFXMCJn6-UF4fL0anhTdcJpMg/s400/P1000891.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1I_cStsZxMNyFTpHCw7JvJyGVpTvN0aodmUVfmbZHUUlLL0GQItuTwOJJYEeHE_hqRLEkAagM1f1qtQFVxYvAr3AQSKM4_wO4lEywwB6cbhEaAMLFcYt_6ZtN8x3y49GMbEHPLA/s1600/P1000896.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1I_cStsZxMNyFTpHCw7JvJyGVpTvN0aodmUVfmbZHUUlLL0GQItuTwOJJYEeHE_hqRLEkAagM1f1qtQFVxYvAr3AQSKM4_wO4lEywwB6cbhEaAMLFcYt_6ZtN8x3y49GMbEHPLA/s400/P1000896.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Inside the <span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">O Mui</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; text-align: -webkit-auto;">ñ</span><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">o de Pena</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3TlWHjAd8iTt5N-yk7zZZQ70Ehl9L2dAH3wMh69ycnsL_qrlOrLLnvwS7S4jXBW0xgrKKeDhaMbC8uAxhTjSzY_GM24OCleXlG2r1OBMXFplwwqn0vMZrBeGvrPOEvmvdseP_ow/s1600/P1000914.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3TlWHjAd8iTt5N-yk7zZZQ70Ehl9L2dAH3wMh69ycnsL_qrlOrLLnvwS7S4jXBW0xgrKKeDhaMbC8uAxhTjSzY_GM24OCleXlG2r1OBMXFplwwqn0vMZrBeGvrPOEvmvdseP_ow/s640/P1000914.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
My stay
tonight is in a converted mill, the delectable O Mui<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">ñ</span>o de Pena, where sleep will be accompanied by a gently
flowing river outside my window after a dinner served amidst the cleverly
preserved paraphernalia of mill machinery in their restaurant. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
Bliss.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<b>Camino
Day 9</b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
I decided
to have an early start today, walking the 20km final stage into Santiago de
Compostela, in the hope that I could avoid a busy trail and have some time to
enjoy the city.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
Well,
that plan didn't work. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
I started
tramping along just before dawn (not difficult in mid October when dawn doesn't
occur until almost 9 a.m. here in Spain), and immediately ran into many of the
folks I'd seen in the preceding days, all of whom seemed to have the same idea.
So, 'foot on the gas' and I'd passed many of them in the first hours, giving myself some relative solitude
again.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3zIHBgG32q8pC9diURa_sFPV2QRgk12LtMAd9EU8JEIJz98hIHDi9XHfM6FZPzittsX7tY00xyJXXFg4A4k3xEl68C8HGT4n-zuIGDwJo32UNDkWg7JHrjVwa41Ss-CDfsdMOGQ/s1600/P1000922.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3zIHBgG32q8pC9diURa_sFPV2QRgk12LtMAd9EU8JEIJz98hIHDi9XHfM6FZPzittsX7tY00xyJXXFg4A4k3xEl68C8HGT4n-zuIGDwJo32UNDkWg7JHrjVwa41Ss-CDfsdMOGQ/s400/P1000922.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A fine start for the last day on the Camino</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLyBhtJADAv8RteCQRmxXOIGO8DJqjnVEL7wtI4z-7-R1ohOKl_rmKXRi33ayma3Vm3drIyMYukIBZMOeruFCaDSAL_wEI4J3z5x1XYMHPCUW6_bjJxrFD1oY98hh-hzKRllLffg/s1600/P1000925.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLyBhtJADAv8RteCQRmxXOIGO8DJqjnVEL7wtI4z-7-R1ohOKl_rmKXRi33ayma3Vm3drIyMYukIBZMOeruFCaDSAL_wEI4J3z5x1XYMHPCUW6_bjJxrFD1oY98hh-hzKRllLffg/s400/P1000925.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhozGLaLRPEuu3kPbpKTlDhPhJ-u40cH9IJflZcHtlmmNxKQu6g8RyuZUV1QSbyjdXwV6C8DSQKJO7wnVyHKYmpqZ073NuMwyWbf0nvPcUdPpwsFdm6akVAIN0lLiTmC3JZhA7FQA/s1600/P1000927.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhozGLaLRPEuu3kPbpKTlDhPhJ-u40cH9IJflZcHtlmmNxKQu6g8RyuZUV1QSbyjdXwV6C8DSQKJO7wnVyHKYmpqZ073NuMwyWbf0nvPcUdPpwsFdm6akVAIN0lLiTmC3JZhA7FQA/s640/P1000927.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmsLW8QVoJiNr5Ec6Eg49ffzEp171le356bIxctWOwVxJWBIh7gL59VQkm2FamNeJ_mK0y6VJmP5yz0juTmUDz_iiTKJP6diQaZz3tYs6N7bOf_BQCZzytpac8lNuyP5TmgJ5ZUQ/s1600/P1000932.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmsLW8QVoJiNr5Ec6Eg49ffzEp171le356bIxctWOwVxJWBIh7gL59VQkm2FamNeJ_mK0y6VJmP5yz0juTmUDz_iiTKJP6diQaZz3tYs6N7bOf_BQCZzytpac8lNuyP5TmgJ5ZUQ/s400/P1000932.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG8Rwoc5oKmqKn9dkXiuHnJW94i0O0-s8X-Og-fDXyw-z7Ic2Cr3oeoPLQtPaaqN6BHv-DA_r8sa5PNOIRPoez-7RjAe2VIc7kbAg6-3qkj8SvS02uxqtds4_WwkD2mJeE2LRskQ/s1600/P1000934.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG8Rwoc5oKmqKn9dkXiuHnJW94i0O0-s8X-Og-fDXyw-z7Ic2Cr3oeoPLQtPaaqN6BHv-DA_r8sa5PNOIRPoez-7RjAe2VIc7kbAg6-3qkj8SvS02uxqtds4_WwkD2mJeE2LRskQ/s640/P1000934.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhNP09WtPViSjGyYD5wGNKSELLcE159C6dtzGibt3v0ccD1LvekquC7mFHCUYDjUonQ-xX2GoYcIlI3mGXvidXyqu-fw6U2JGXruu28BsAvh_tGN66xVLdjX9KpV8KeVPmjbnnCQ/s1600/P1000936.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhNP09WtPViSjGyYD5wGNKSELLcE159C6dtzGibt3v0ccD1LvekquC7mFHCUYDjUonQ-xX2GoYcIlI3mGXvidXyqu-fw6U2JGXruu28BsAvh_tGN66xVLdjX9KpV8KeVPmjbnnCQ/s400/P1000936.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monte de Gozo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2KmXiPer3QNpxfko2RYKhhLk6mvoKsyAE3W6oUjkQO1nntNtyzBvuWEERaLEFFj-_7RWrJA1yzJee9HA9nXYbRl4oCGFKhYtF3Ojm8D5xkjE1Y59sjw1UvkBggiaJPHHz_sJ7jw/s1600/P1000941.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="388" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2KmXiPer3QNpxfko2RYKhhLk6mvoKsyAE3W6oUjkQO1nntNtyzBvuWEERaLEFFj-_7RWrJA1yzJee9HA9nXYbRl4oCGFKhYtF3Ojm8D5xkjE1Y59sjw1UvkBggiaJPHHz_sJ7jw/s400/P1000941.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
It's very
easy to underestimate just how hard this last day's walking is. There's a
steepish climb up to Cimadevilla and then a long steady ascent from Lavacolla
to Monte do Gozo. And much of the day is spent on hard surfaces - well packed
paths, tarmac, and pavement when you finally reach the outskirts of Santiago.
For me, the last 4km were the hardest. The sudden shock of the cacophony from
this vibrant city, full of students and weary <i>peregrinos. </i>Tired feet and knees, and energy sapped by the
relatively high humidity of the day. And the overwhelming 'pull' of the
Cathedral, the final stopping point, near to which you then join a short queue
for your <i>Credencial del Peregrino</i> to
be checked and then your <i>Compostela </i>to
be formally issued. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhQadIMkgMAWQXhonJStoX9yJrfUbopSPSvqZsXmdoHiEDMkpWczHK7YHKwGC4RVTXTJKrZzKodTJAZcy9zd8QBpAlZeZbjTNZbuDTfnLx3geUOwyDrawjt6dfVEvvuAdvSHxP_Q/s1600/P1000973.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhQadIMkgMAWQXhonJStoX9yJrfUbopSPSvqZsXmdoHiEDMkpWczHK7YHKwGC4RVTXTJKrZzKodTJAZcy9zd8QBpAlZeZbjTNZbuDTfnLx3geUOwyDrawjt6dfVEvvuAdvSHxP_Q/s400/P1000973.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Queuing for the Compostela, Santiago de Compostela</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYyTEyz7ViM1MrwLARtvKtDbBUc1cFpoko5EDOnNkmmBZX_Jl67mx64xLDFzEfca4kT2zhU0WEs5zXbq62QtGtNAzdrVMNbWVL_u7y1DDCl4xS4K1LmoMZZCXWAVmP6yCN207I_w/s1600/Compostela.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYyTEyz7ViM1MrwLARtvKtDbBUc1cFpoko5EDOnNkmmBZX_Jl67mx64xLDFzEfca4kT2zhU0WEs5zXbq62QtGtNAzdrVMNbWVL_u7y1DDCl4xS4K1LmoMZZCXWAVmP6yCN207I_w/s640/Compostela.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My Compostela, although I doubt if my sins have been absolved!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
A
refreshing shower in my hotel, the historic Hotel Virxa Da Cerca, did a little
to reenergise me, enough to find a decent place for tapas, this time <i>pulpo (</i>octopus) on toast, some squid,
and more of those delicious peppers from Padr<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">ó</span>n. The inevitable sightseeing
tour of the city followed, exploring the narrow streets and the huge Prazo do
Obradoiro facing the Cathedral, filled with exhausted pilgrims revelling in
their achievement. The cathedral is massive, and you can file past the relics
of St James, kept in a silver casket just below the altar.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU3kX1-Cejkqv8jHAMqzc_Hj2ybipIKAuPSHkoo_892xxYCcLAr4mzISDIlp18ATLxtwE5RKsDaWcCTRMc2_zAHkDiICIv2Y1RWv0fljTzaQWFzZse7nr62N9tQ4jcvcSuKMBwSA/s1600/P1000978.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU3kX1-Cejkqv8jHAMqzc_Hj2ybipIKAuPSHkoo_892xxYCcLAr4mzISDIlp18ATLxtwE5RKsDaWcCTRMc2_zAHkDiICIv2Y1RWv0fljTzaQWFzZse7nr62N9tQ4jcvcSuKMBwSA/s400/P1000978.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mosteria de San Martiño Pinario, Santiago de Compostela</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDL3yS1rf9NcloW-_C3Y5yJAC5uDuy2GTOebK5eLgH_RzC0vn8TtWcIfZKQgI4nW5keIVZO5a9dwd14TuHlebdP_3koOIyUruNIx2u1Oq7THmYi7gSI_Ma9Iui6gCY5SO5KP5u4A/s1600/P1000990.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDL3yS1rf9NcloW-_C3Y5yJAC5uDuy2GTOebK5eLgH_RzC0vn8TtWcIfZKQgI4nW5keIVZO5a9dwd14TuHlebdP_3koOIyUruNIx2u1Oq7THmYi7gSI_Ma9Iui6gCY5SO5KP5u4A/s400/P1000990.jpg" width="317" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stumpy at the Cathedral in Santiago, at last...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm4iy8MqopjvbQg4QFvEGXZV8Uw8372mwOFHGjDddVEem0ZNe0zLtrAC6_sQcNYBEM_QppX6XUQKuO2K0R62kTJrzzQ8KhgIk3ZRSJBfk08TR3WBCYQW1mkuxAgcuzABVoYZ_2Eg/s1600/P1010007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm4iy8MqopjvbQg4QFvEGXZV8Uw8372mwOFHGjDddVEem0ZNe0zLtrAC6_sQcNYBEM_QppX6XUQKuO2K0R62kTJrzzQ8KhgIk3ZRSJBfk08TR3WBCYQW1mkuxAgcuzABVoYZ_2Eg/s640/P1010007.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Santiago de Compostela, one of Christianity's three great pilgrimage centres</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmbMsO8fU0qMmCediX2jkQpF1FL6awnBtvJwUcn0XovbgBA6cgypZGZi9PEbIwdxe5tJN4R7dPTFG8P3cRcuDhrEriY_MV4SSYN8s2XCmaIquupG5coC4PgKbM4wfBKRU0wV6QXg/s1600/P1010013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmbMsO8fU0qMmCediX2jkQpF1FL6awnBtvJwUcn0XovbgBA6cgypZGZi9PEbIwdxe5tJN4R7dPTFG8P3cRcuDhrEriY_MV4SSYN8s2XCmaIquupG5coC4PgKbM4wfBKRU0wV6QXg/s640/P1010013.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_C8gmm3yTCNbTJoYhTXdD_ScKorriVhdkLqAq_NuF-Zh8t9gHMkLn3D-BQFZ2txURUlNn5Vuiv2JcKt47eWeAjOYi8sQg877p9rgDFMZzi3TMl_ySw8O-x3GMEHsbVDd87X55QA/s1600/P1010018.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_C8gmm3yTCNbTJoYhTXdD_ScKorriVhdkLqAq_NuF-Zh8t9gHMkLn3D-BQFZ2txURUlNn5Vuiv2JcKt47eWeAjOYi8sQg877p9rgDFMZzi3TMl_ySw8O-x3GMEHsbVDd87X55QA/s640/P1010018.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY2A00JO-7Mlb-w7t0afgxuWg-sRDX-QeNL9e6Uk9IfA8M-pdnZ3e7CThE49y6hqTKwB4xOmODCZn8aPUBSO53RM87jex0dsm27_Ytb1cM3S4_xgh2kp5D1B8KiF6q5yVlDQa-Qw/s1600/P1010048.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY2A00JO-7Mlb-w7t0afgxuWg-sRDX-QeNL9e6Uk9IfA8M-pdnZ3e7CThE49y6hqTKwB4xOmODCZn8aPUBSO53RM87jex0dsm27_Ytb1cM3S4_xgh2kp5D1B8KiF6q5yVlDQa-Qw/s640/P1010048.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Praza do Obradoiro</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHaJJdQXc0ol1L_wp6JOyv3xK1KY8_Hcg7WF5rovO5Y0Jp8bwuc9VWneTUk4shQGNPzSQaeNT1tTuhgf6sKqGO97hcmQlXSI-LmuADNxreDhcL3JTrBPsUjj0oBWHDBRVQIgLsBA/s1600/P1010079.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHaJJdQXc0ol1L_wp6JOyv3xK1KY8_Hcg7WF5rovO5Y0Jp8bwuc9VWneTUk4shQGNPzSQaeNT1tTuhgf6sKqGO97hcmQlXSI-LmuADNxreDhcL3JTrBPsUjj0oBWHDBRVQIgLsBA/s640/P1010079.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside the Cathedral</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwqNG4HoqM9rTu5MjW49f4OlBsb3RJ3IqLCrx0Ut8TfvpgE0ASxUtg90u_t-ArcbTfAPeEyiOWUCrHOr3S_UersXNgfmwlKeY12fl9QhJBRL34moqiICollOywmxqlZ1apHBXoFA/s1600/P1010091.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwqNG4HoqM9rTu5MjW49f4OlBsb3RJ3IqLCrx0Ut8TfvpgE0ASxUtg90u_t-ArcbTfAPeEyiOWUCrHOr3S_UersXNgfmwlKeY12fl9QhJBRL34moqiICollOywmxqlZ1apHBXoFA/s400/P1010091.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9qEhyRLJeJttlvL9BfalOQsPTO8dJZRTHdzaPXvIXBUwxKQq8qCT5eCfDSG0PV8vQYifqrS4HCLswjlXbdCXcT395_3QnWaQqQ7U7sKI-1I_M9ocdjjHeDRvAfcYiQFD9po_E3g/s1600/P1010093.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9qEhyRLJeJttlvL9BfalOQsPTO8dJZRTHdzaPXvIXBUwxKQq8qCT5eCfDSG0PV8vQYifqrS4HCLswjlXbdCXcT395_3QnWaQqQ7U7sKI-1I_M9ocdjjHeDRvAfcYiQFD9po_E3g/s400/P1010093.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Access to the tomb of Saint James</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBk05ssueDYOmpa0seNkx4apQ-rUyc1cDgA5jJPT1T9fANoyoaUZnudqZpwBkpbW5E9nNS38JBHsXBlONrJNZs-q6990-wBhGjaCbLch64Lgp0pq3Rkll-nn4KFmzGjQewjXqAYQ/s1600/P1010102.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBk05ssueDYOmpa0seNkx4apQ-rUyc1cDgA5jJPT1T9fANoyoaUZnudqZpwBkpbW5E9nNS38JBHsXBlONrJNZs-q6990-wBhGjaCbLch64Lgp0pq3Rkll-nn4KFmzGjQewjXqAYQ/s640/P1010102.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A <i>peregrino </i>arriving late in the day</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifSaeZZnJOmMfyvKR_oVNIETkIDLu6JKFBAMy5j1vYzyG2K1UzVwV2f011nY_EvBQoSagBnl8SsWWtOmlQ-yAFL47UeWZlV5LZUYFI8pW81bMxD7dmvlkgjL6F-NnVIeC5yVRTlA/s1600/P1000969.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifSaeZZnJOmMfyvKR_oVNIETkIDLu6JKFBAMy5j1vYzyG2K1UzVwV2f011nY_EvBQoSagBnl8SsWWtOmlQ-yAFL47UeWZlV5LZUYFI8pW81bMxD7dmvlkgjL6F-NnVIeC5yVRTlA/s400/P1000969.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Cathedral, Santiago de Compostela</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSpChf_D6Ofe7JOEGlv-EK5qpIQRuORattlzgs8sXszZSQvJZ25GxMuPQemC7VgAtFz4ld-OvprPDETfcOPWN2LJQkthpzE_8NiPtH5SphpPa4axtRAse8zdj_TPjsEUnEqE8qsw/s1600/P1010107.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSpChf_D6Ofe7JOEGlv-EK5qpIQRuORattlzgs8sXszZSQvJZ25GxMuPQemC7VgAtFz4ld-OvprPDETfcOPWN2LJQkthpzE_8NiPtH5SphpPa4axtRAse8zdj_TPjsEUnEqE8qsw/s400/P1010107.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Inside the <span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">Hotel Virxa Da Cerca</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
My final
evening was spent wandering the area around the atmospheric R<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">ú</span>a do Franco and R<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">ú</span>a del Villar, eventually
settling on a popular local's tapas bar <i>O
Piorno </i>in R<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">ú</span>a Caldeir<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">í</span>a for my final dinner in Spain...scallops of course!<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKudLzbg0hRgxYjF8FX2dUKPtBexow7YchyHGfhOnlIyeLMM1ZU-US67ZPDhhHVMZjBcbfvETYOG_pPUtdw8j_PQUip3LZwqCzTc453qBblpbBJtUPjtHHDCOMn4_RaeakQxruCQ/s1600/P1010114.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKudLzbg0hRgxYjF8FX2dUKPtBexow7YchyHGfhOnlIyeLMM1ZU-US67ZPDhhHVMZjBcbfvETYOG_pPUtdw8j_PQUip3LZwqCzTc453qBblpbBJtUPjtHHDCOMn4_RaeakQxruCQ/s400/P1010114.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<i>A few statistics: 9 days walking, total 170km (about 107
miles) at an average speed of 5.35 kph (3.3 mph).</i><b><o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<b>Summary<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
I think
the faces of the folks I saw queuing up the stairs into the Pilgrim Office in
Santiago de Compostela said it all. Tired, reflective, and physically drawn
after walking the Camino for many days, or weeks in some some cases, but then
suddenly elated when they emerge from the office clutching their <i>Compostela</i>.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
This walk
is often written off as an 'easy' walk by the trekking community. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
Well, it
shouldn't be. Day after day through undulating terrain, some long distances to
be covered on some of the stages, and outside the final 100km, some very lonely
stretches too. And, in season, subject to the heat of the Spanish sun.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
It's a
worthy adventure, and the camaraderie genuine and uplifting. I'd not want to do
it like most people do, carrying everything on their backs and staying at basic
<i>auberge </i>each night. Far better to have
your luggage moved on for you each day and have a comfortable rural inn or
hotel restore you. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
But if
you're hard-core, then consider one of the other routes to Santiago de
Compostela, the routes following the coastal and mountain areas of northern
Spain, or the long haul up from Seville or through Portugal. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
Another
day perhaps...<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkzHGM92SNDLR23LcHNU6E4BC6YVNvTulpdGT_SZq7ZTR_vNu1asFUxS_ynYxi-iPVOLdeQBV5OHQKXc2G2SfnqYEAXsYOLHtYfzFvl_VTqgZPsZwPM_-Bz13Fei_a7h9zdorXuw/s1600/P1010113.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkzHGM92SNDLR23LcHNU6E4BC6YVNvTulpdGT_SZq7ZTR_vNu1asFUxS_ynYxi-iPVOLdeQBV5OHQKXc2G2SfnqYEAXsYOLHtYfzFvl_VTqgZPsZwPM_-Bz13Fei_a7h9zdorXuw/s640/P1010113.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<!--EndFragment--></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9888425.post-32582587627566243832012-09-22T17:00:00.000+00:002012-09-23T12:49:54.672+00:00Trails of Menorca<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:TargetScreenSize>544x376</o:TargetScreenSize>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0cm;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-ansi-language:EN-US;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
<br />
<div class="Body1">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi97jZjOen7Pq_z7vr1qh3tBZXnNvrWTv29wwLNVRtVHHuhzA7-TOe22bMPQGc6O5oeOAjfi_2z-OysrU_5AowE5aGsj1uSYLvq0BLfzTriXrC9vPPduMCelI8ZMVzz-4cIZ-qvLA/s1600/P1090115.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi97jZjOen7Pq_z7vr1qh3tBZXnNvrWTv29wwLNVRtVHHuhzA7-TOe22bMPQGc6O5oeOAjfi_2z-OysrU_5AowE5aGsj1uSYLvq0BLfzTriXrC9vPPduMCelI8ZMVzz-4cIZ-qvLA/s400/P1090115.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Platja de Cavalleria, north coast</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US">Although
I have a preference for more mountainous areas, I had the opportunity to walk
in Menorca for a week this September.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Menorca?!!
A tiny island in the Meditteranean known for 'sun, sea and sand' holidays (or
as the travel industry insiders say, 'fly and flop'). But, unknown to many,
Menorca has UNESCO Biosphere Reserve status, reflecting its unique ecosystem,
with some hidden gems and some easy walking in attractive countryside inland
and along isolated coastal paths. And, the weather is quite predictably hot and
sunny as well!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC-Afc3Jm1GFrF3sU5sM-vWzwA_8vttirfi0MM9nYU6pgPf-UWLA_gAo4OL5aQ6csS2zGZryf-lhwY8akVOXX9YJOPO_oF3GXXPuHuxhkl_J7_v4jQ0BrECVMo__w1dkjAL_4ugQ/s1600/P1090270.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC-Afc3Jm1GFrF3sU5sM-vWzwA_8vttirfi0MM9nYU6pgPf-UWLA_gAo4OL5aQ6csS2zGZryf-lhwY8akVOXX9YJOPO_oF3GXXPuHuxhkl_J7_v4jQ0BrECVMo__w1dkjAL_4ugQ/s640/P1090270.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Path to Cala Macaralleta</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
island is mainly limestone in the south, so much of the walking is across
limestone pavement, intersected by gorges and featuring some large caves in
places. To the north, there is some sandstone, giving rise to hummocky landscapes.
Vegetation is richly diverse, but I won't embarrass myself by pretending to
know much about that! </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">So,
to the walks. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">If
your heading down this way, I'd start with the Cami de Cavalls coastal path.
This is now a well-signposted network of mainly coastal paths that attempt to
circumnavigate the island. Wooden posts and specific signposts mark the way,
and the paths are generally well maintained and some have been subject to
recent re-routing, closing off some inland paths that used to be rights of way.
This means that many of the day routes are 'out-and-back' affairs, but with
changing light during the day, it's good for photography and a more even sun
tan!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjLUburW1iM6DgwwOLJ3ZLOT08rz1ymvN1OuyocmQIxpZ039rVOSveOoj4qvBhl0ZD7r30d_XWyBwWrv7Tnj2lXxHw_55OWh0ARmh8t2HnPB-CG5enjb6h56E3t6K4Alzjk_dAXQ/s1600/P1080989.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjLUburW1iM6DgwwOLJ3ZLOT08rz1ymvN1OuyocmQIxpZ039rVOSveOoj4qvBhl0ZD7r30d_XWyBwWrv7Tnj2lXxHw_55OWh0ARmh8t2HnPB-CG5enjb6h56E3t6K4Alzjk_dAXQ/s640/P1080989.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Cami de Cavalls pathways</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY8nggIi_ga3Z2y5_Kz0NIwexFH0_JRHID5p_4Ajsx0WXPGEo4XRLCaf-3mNJzGB_zRlzzK4GHV6-iOC7kP5ejapRHvgI5bsZONMKqzrqVQYFK6DxleNIhOXTSR5BTzxv9j0Ia0w/s1600/P1080911.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY8nggIi_ga3Z2y5_Kz0NIwexFH0_JRHID5p_4Ajsx0WXPGEo4XRLCaf-3mNJzGB_zRlzzK4GHV6-iOC7kP5ejapRHvgI5bsZONMKqzrqVQYFK6DxleNIhOXTSR5BTzxv9j0Ia0w/s400/P1080911.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">I
recommend the Cami de Cavalls trails on the north coast, from Platja de Cavalleria to Cala Pregonda, and on
the east coast a short section (2-3 hours) from Es Grau to Ca le Sa Torreta,
both out-and-back routes, and delightfully devoid of people apart from the bays
at the start point. Start early in the morning to avoid the heat, and have the
paths to yourself.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"></span><br /><span lang="EN-US"></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxeFgak63R2IlMMN7jdBkBJX7HwQjmi-SjYU1a34QZX4JmhWXL1-peSolzn5H1kKSkmgsdk5UaVoHeU4msvWN5UroDyl3m2B0Ekdjm70F8pWCIWHprjzoG95Cy4SFJ4opjjRRYtQ/s1600/P1090291.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxeFgak63R2IlMMN7jdBkBJX7HwQjmi-SjYU1a34QZX4JmhWXL1-peSolzn5H1kKSkmgsdk5UaVoHeU4msvWN5UroDyl3m2B0Ekdjm70F8pWCIWHprjzoG95Cy4SFJ4opjjRRYtQ/s400/P1090291.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Path to Ca la Sa Torreta, east coast</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjfUiWo6IktwersNDC4vfnTp6smiH7EJzbMum01gj1qlAT02pVa-mb6AjLxr1ZLsILgFTSWzbDWxScxkmBgH03qrPncKzFMHtcQFpAdHHq9KnmMYiRBPXno2_uL57nHvKZ7yVIRg/s1600/P1090312.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjfUiWo6IktwersNDC4vfnTp6smiH7EJzbMum01gj1qlAT02pVa-mb6AjLxr1ZLsILgFTSWzbDWxScxkmBgH03qrPncKzFMHtcQFpAdHHq9KnmMYiRBPXno2_uL57nHvKZ7yVIRg/s640/P1090312.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from Es Colomar watchtower, north of Es Grau</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">On the south coast, there's some impressive walking
along low cliffs from Cala Turqueta to Cala Macarella and beyond. One notable
bay, only accessible on foot and via steep rocky trails, is Cala Macaralleta,
quite beautiful, and a lot less busy than most. And, inland from Sant Tomas,
walk to the huge cave of Cova des Coloms, up through a densely vegetated gorge.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcgmP4dUElyBLWQUFVHmE1SxEkaJD3F_b1S_ZsdgvlJL7BY_t5BWpRwBQYqi5L9GpPJ-1EI6-BIelGtMHlauaAL-iGpJj6HrMqWYxukpHxh8lgVuJFEo68spsKcxH3Ac2BYkHgGg/s1600/P1090266.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcgmP4dUElyBLWQUFVHmE1SxEkaJD3F_b1S_ZsdgvlJL7BY_t5BWpRwBQYqi5L9GpPJ-1EI6-BIelGtMHlauaAL-iGpJj6HrMqWYxukpHxh8lgVuJFEo68spsKcxH3Ac2BYkHgGg/s400/P1090266.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Cala Macaralleta</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Body1">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOFxvveDkfApVj71N7ELm9nY8qKgcwhuLuLnOzCUXzA-5Mlp51BaANWHuEAfD0_YrEDaOliJHBlWsIM19Mkx9t1BQi5KC7GpoYbnnnbWxurnYs9ZMX0aaHD-1dAZfIpDs4aQ5hkA/s1600/P1090006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOFxvveDkfApVj71N7ELm9nY8qKgcwhuLuLnOzCUXzA-5Mlp51BaANWHuEAfD0_YrEDaOliJHBlWsIM19Mkx9t1BQi5KC7GpoYbnnnbWxurnYs9ZMX0aaHD-1dAZfIpDs4aQ5hkA/s400/P1090006.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Cova des Coloms</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US">I stayed at a delightful hotel, the <a href="http://www.morvedranou.es/en/instalaciones/" target="_blank">Hotel Rural Morvedra Nou</a>,</span><span lang="EN-US"> east of Ciutadella, set inland on a hill and wonderfully peaceful.
Food and service is good quality.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-CqtUgoKeK6Z0Glzq7y1qMkFgrRYTrzqhBvOYpPYYV7kX5OyIw9t9jZIxBcbaIEUwotee6P2ASCxHzd6HEJ8XpJ0QjDE7weeJtsRh0prhAbFmcaN4xKdFtfDJG0x03ghiy6X1JQ/s1600/P1090103.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-CqtUgoKeK6Z0Glzq7y1qMkFgrRYTrzqhBvOYpPYYV7kX5OyIw9t9jZIxBcbaIEUwotee6P2ASCxHzd6HEJ8XpJ0QjDE7weeJtsRh0prhAbFmcaN4xKdFtfDJG0x03ghiy6X1JQ/s400/P1090103.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hotel Rural Morvedra Nou</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9PBvO9LHDQYjux6fOAsIK8PakV93vpzmBe7CaZmRQ89eP1dlmEce0CUVEU9ZttHfc9bfi5OQnlXs-H3mW8KXgYk87dCcZDo1stjpEHKPLN_pLJhpFY1qCnE5pQDakVSeskfDG4Q/s1600/P1090105.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9PBvO9LHDQYjux6fOAsIK8PakV93vpzmBe7CaZmRQ89eP1dlmEce0CUVEU9ZttHfc9bfi5OQnlXs-H3mW8KXgYk87dCcZDo1stjpEHKPLN_pLJhpFY1qCnE5pQDakVSeskfDG4Q/s400/P1090105.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<span lang="EN-US">The larger towns in Menorca are also worth a visit,
the capital <span style="font-family: inherit;">Ma</span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: inherit; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 14.0pt;">ó</span><span lang="EN-US">, to the east, and Ciutadella in
the west. Both have harbours, attractive narrow streets filled with history,
and are clean. A joy to walk around both of them.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Wc4ZRpMk2xMt1erwVf4mBUz5YLrXymoN4HxTlEWmljstbtOOkgUCv-XBEiURoWNnxTx2DOvo-E4ZuKrEqwCphtgJlTKiiJTnlMKz4aSbXkDiCQRJIVdBIRjmfYAyeQb_ZfG87w/s1600/P1090091.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Wc4ZRpMk2xMt1erwVf4mBUz5YLrXymoN4HxTlEWmljstbtOOkgUCv-XBEiURoWNnxTx2DOvo-E4ZuKrEqwCphtgJlTKiiJTnlMKz4aSbXkDiCQRJIVdBIRjmfYAyeQb_ZfG87w/s640/P1090091.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maó</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">If
you want to experience 'hidden Menorca' I'd recommend <a href="http://www.headwater.com/" target="_blank">Headwater</a></span><span lang="EN-US">, a UK based walking
and cycling tour company. Good route notes, hotel selection, and transport for
your luggage on point-to-point routes they organise elsewhere in Europe.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMlrVKd4HZhgD_z42JYMOg_-_gnU8s__nzPEpNWTB4nalEHxfpgxA9ndGgnqT9SMjEW85ZmMML-K_u-rCybqHKXJuXGT9B45kWfU0DLd9dep6t9dV3-mXI27vWkspkNj3zsmsZWw/s1600/P1090339.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMlrVKd4HZhgD_z42JYMOg_-_gnU8s__nzPEpNWTB4nalEHxfpgxA9ndGgnqT9SMjEW85ZmMML-K_u-rCybqHKXJuXGT9B45kWfU0DLd9dep6t9dV3-mXI27vWkspkNj3zsmsZWw/s400/P1090339.jpg" width="400" /></a><span lang="EN-US">And,
one final surprise. I happened upon a Tibetan Buddhist centre, a few minutes
away from my hotel. Just on the outskirts of Ciutadella is the <a href="http://sites.google.com/site/gandenchoelingcenter/" target="_blank">Ganden Choeling Buddhist Centre</a></span><span lang="EN-US">, established in
1994 by the Ven. Kyabje Khensur Rimpoch</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">é</span><span lang="EN-US"> Tamding Gyatso, emissary to
Spain for His Holiness the Dalai Lama from 1987. Now part of a network of
eighteen Buddhist Centres on Spanish territory, the Geshe lama is now the Ven.
Geshe Tenzing Tamding. The centre follows the Gelug school of Tibetan Buddhism.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Of
course, given my academic interest in Tibetan Buddhism, I paid a visit, the
entrance way marked by an earth stupa adorned with prayer flags, and the centre
itself a modest construction with small assembly hall. Thangkas featuring
Maitreya, Tsongkhapa and Padmasambhava surrounded the central Buddha feature,
and the whole atmosphere was very understated, the air of calm palpable.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">So,
an island full of surprises! A pleasant, relaxing spot only two hours away by
air from the UK.</span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYJtJPz1OM2UFsZ02Zp4Fnaay6qeN4T3bLR53K01R3ups56MkUIhDFLZW4QzTK2wTZnfPyUN3NTR9FBctf04jSNXT_nj8dPXkSBBnHMws2riPPozANs75adJluJbZnMXR24P2sIA/s1600/P1080958.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYJtJPz1OM2UFsZ02Zp4Fnaay6qeN4T3bLR53K01R3ups56MkUIhDFLZW4QzTK2wTZnfPyUN3NTR9FBctf04jSNXT_nj8dPXkSBBnHMws2riPPozANs75adJluJbZnMXR24P2sIA/s400/P1080958.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">South coast</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<i><span lang="EN-US">UNESCO Biosphere Reserve - an
explanatory note</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<i><span lang="EN-US">The main characteristic of the
Menorca Biosphere Reserve, last expanded in 2004, is the diversity
characteristic of nearly all Mediterranean island ecosystems. The most notable
habitats are the gullies, caves, wetlands made up of ponds, lagoons and
marshes, dune systems, coasts and islets.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
<div class="Body1">
<i><span lang="EN-US">Some 220 species of birds, and
1000 species of plants (60 of which are endemic) have been recorded. One of the
most important landscape features of the Biosphere Reserve is the number of
gullies that cross it in the direction of the south coast, which offer
spectacular landscapes and have an abundant and varied flora and fauna. Menorca
has many natural land caves and underwater caves, situated in the north and
south of the island.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
<div class="Body1">
<i><span lang="EN-US">Also important are the nesting
sites of birds of prey and aquatic birds nesting close to small permanent or
seasonal water sources. The coastal wetlands include Albufera de Es Grau (a
Natural Park and the core area of the Biosphere Reserve), as well as Addaia,
Son Saura and Son Bou. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
<div class="Body1">
<i><span lang="EN-US">The rocky coast, mainly the
limestone cliff provides habitats for marine birds such as the Cory's
shearwaters, cormorants, seagulls and various birds of prey. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
<div class="Body1">
<i><span lang="EN-US">Oak woods are abundant only in
the central part of the island and in a few gullies. The woods of wild olive
trees, known on the island as ullastrars, appear in areas of thin soils, and is
the dominant tree species on the island.</span></i><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: #0400; mso-bidi-language: X-NONE; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: #0400;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9888425.post-29522856901222648912012-06-25T17:00:00.000+00:002015-04-14T07:30:19.505+00:00Humla Circuit, Nepal - June 2012<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVhmxBWVWWtVsFGaVHVTp6ESigfWDEg2U7ZlCxtYJNkwNdcodDPEaM2hmA8QB6dNXh6rlT0RtvOHbOB9BGcz8wn7I5Sl3m8cPufSGiakjmt0KBkhImLhZbAtLf67SlTz_i1px_qg/s1600/P1080280.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVhmxBWVWWtVsFGaVHVTp6ESigfWDEg2U7ZlCxtYJNkwNdcodDPEaM2hmA8QB6dNXh6rlT0RtvOHbOB9BGcz8wn7I5Sl3m8cPufSGiakjmt0KBkhImLhZbAtLf67SlTz_i1px_qg/s640/P1080280.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Our expedition, originally intended to be in Tibet, was compromised by the Chinese authorities who varied their entry criteria at the last minute. Our plan had been to cross Tibet from Lhasa to Kailas and Guge, then trek out via the Limi Valley in Nepal. </span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">This trek has us arriving in the remote Humla region of Nepal by plane into Simikot, trekking up the Karnali River valley for four days to the Tibetan border at Hilsa, then trekking through the Limi Valley on our original schedule.</span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-US">There is a 15 minute video of our trek on </span><a href="http://youtu.be/JE2vXkQqoZY">YouTube</a><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Wednesday
6 June</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Ahead
of the return of the rest of our team from Bhutan, we took a short sightseeing
trip to Patan, just across the Bagmati River, south of Kathmandu. I'd been
before, but the Durbar Square with its many Newari and Indian temples never
fails to impress, and the relatively new Patan Museum within the old palace
building was worth a look.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyb4iQ59zyWM9UH0r8ZDGX8jik4aHX6tinCUU1FMepwdbeMv3-zXwD9g9ruiA1lGnugab6FZSkyVI3-sTjLt3JU4pxt5TPudlmFgS_jfM59UzX39oOkALa6JoSKKPqVjdEY_Hv1A/s1600/P1070583.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyb4iQ59zyWM9UH0r8ZDGX8jik4aHX6tinCUU1FMepwdbeMv3-zXwD9g9ruiA1lGnugab6FZSkyVI3-sTjLt3JU4pxt5TPudlmFgS_jfM59UzX39oOkALa6JoSKKPqVjdEY_Hv1A/s640/P1070583.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kwa Bahal, the 'Golden Temple'</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8In2LUJI0-4i9KSzRxDaMl1_aYXkG29R7WoX7wyLrkR6DL0CtbqI7dYuBeGryifUyM5Vj-ONPM4WHzZ3AnLAcrTcc4BCwD-RugnehgnMKuMNXag5sZgbVPYedhEFh0HKlI77LNw/s1600/P1070586.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8In2LUJI0-4i9KSzRxDaMl1_aYXkG29R7WoX7wyLrkR6DL0CtbqI7dYuBeGryifUyM5Vj-ONPM4WHzZ3AnLAcrTcc4BCwD-RugnehgnMKuMNXag5sZgbVPYedhEFh0HKlI77LNw/s400/P1070586.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entrance mandala</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We
wandered the back streets, visited Kwa Bahal, the tiny Buddhist monastery known
as the Golden Temple, and spent some time with the purveyor of marvellously
crafted 'singing bowls' before heading back to the hotel. By lunchtime it was
oppressively hot in the city, so lunch was called for and we met up with the
rest of the gang mid afternoon.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTfMLWedG0r9060wr8FIPt8ex8nkabAo5J2rCL0SLqj49aBYKuo9I0PgOYoEL2_QHIK93Sgi-ZQMN7UDYHuiUKdv8h6sIJn_50KKbMbvUlpBso-wK4v_26DsKdksAUpmyuRdJp4w/s1600/P1070589.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTfMLWedG0r9060wr8FIPt8ex8nkabAo5J2rCL0SLqj49aBYKuo9I0PgOYoEL2_QHIK93Sgi-ZQMN7UDYHuiUKdv8h6sIJn_50KKbMbvUlpBso-wK4v_26DsKdksAUpmyuRdJp4w/s640/P1070589.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ommmmmm......</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
good dinner at the Garden of Dreams again, catching up on all the news, and a
couple of us stopped by to listen to some good live jazz at a bar near the
hotel. A nice way to complete the day! </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Tomorrow
the team start their next adventure...trekking the Humla region in the
northwest of Nepal. I think we're all ready to leave the polluted air of
Kathmandu!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Thursday
7 June</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
lazy start, and eventually away to the domestic terminal and a one hour flight
to Nepalgunj. It was a hazy flight, punctuated by some towering cumulo-nimbus,
but we touched down on the flat plain surrounding the town after about one
hour, having passed over some low density forest and acres of parched land. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Here
we are just a few km from the Indian border, and the whole area feels more
Indian than Nepalese, with the usual appalling driving standards as we passed
through this scruffy and dusty border town on the way to our hotel. We
immediately renamed it 'Nepalgrunge.'</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
were obviously staying at the best hotel in town (!) which seemed to be be in
the process of extensive 'modernisation', but it did the job and gave some
respite from the searing heat outside - 39 degrees and about 80% humidity.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">An
early dinner and to bed, hoping that the fan and a/c would keep going and keep
the local mozzies at bay.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Friday
8 June</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">An
uneventful night, several power cuts causing the fan and air con to stop
working at times, and a 0400 alarm call to get us up for the airport transfer
and flight to Simikot. Once again, we feel we're out in the boondocks, and all
looking forward to 'cooler' air up at Simikot, the start point of our trek,
which is at just under 3000m altitude. We got to the airport in a flash, helped
by the lack of traffic at this hour, but found that the plane to Simikot had
arrived but had been scheduled to do a run up to Dolpo and back, delaying our
flight until 0930. The team's heads were down a bit after this, with an
oppressively hot departure 'lounge', local TV blaring away, and 'helpful' observations
from a charity worker who had come down from Simikot this morning...he had
great delight in telling us how his colleague recently got delayed in Simikot
for NINE days due to weather. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Subsequently
checking with our guide, the nearest road head from Simikot is four days
trekking, and the only other option in weather that prevented fixed wing
flights would be an expensive helicopter ride! Needless to say, the team went a
bit quiet after that!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Our
plane eventually arrived back from Dolpo, a battered Twin Otter which they
happily filled with aviation fuel as we queued up to go up the steps. Luggage
was chucked on the front seats, some seatbelts didn't work, and more luggage
blocked the rear emergency exits. Hey ho...we're on an adventure again!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjmF0kUUQXCb5cJG3RffnYa6aSbC1OoQfO7lniC1gMEMSSJmx1IrmBx3AS7-rCY3A1p4cvc_tuziGCjitGRBk_heihRggRR94d8IOYw6uit5WcEZGM-1sMXmlOXSAeTJsYRosRDA/s1600/P1070603.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjmF0kUUQXCb5cJG3RffnYa6aSbC1OoQfO7lniC1gMEMSSJmx1IrmBx3AS7-rCY3A1p4cvc_tuziGCjitGRBk_heihRggRR94d8IOYw6uit5WcEZGM-1sMXmlOXSAeTJsYRosRDA/s400/P1070603.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hmmm, not sure about airline safety regs here!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiEbjfkHryaD4tTwTUyoEJ6KlfW1c6Ag4iGRuvPJqULpafWKTOg3Jgl4SNwnLWiMiNUwpK8f7hXA-HhXINFKZPEKB5UYxVB0kBs2CXvlqoZ7w4bAeFS3asZHnawIY36wCl646PHw/s1600/P1070614.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiEbjfkHryaD4tTwTUyoEJ6KlfW1c6Ag4iGRuvPJqULpafWKTOg3Jgl4SNwnLWiMiNUwpK8f7hXA-HhXINFKZPEKB5UYxVB0kBs2CXvlqoZ7w4bAeFS3asZHnawIY36wCl646PHw/s400/P1070614.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arrival in Simikot</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD0reUg4MM3xMu7FWpK9aooCUSpbvJ4fH3vJCZricqOVpvc4kOEH21TxBTCl2yiObMdQpHWlSFnxtx0QQhicv2EK2RrgLIyVCTReDbXatiKDSQ2glIdLAl6H7IpfyqFVRyiq7WVg/s1600/P1070615.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD0reUg4MM3xMu7FWpK9aooCUSpbvJ4fH3vJCZricqOVpvc4kOEH21TxBTCl2yiObMdQpHWlSFnxtx0QQhicv2EK2RrgLIyVCTReDbXatiKDSQ2glIdLAl6H7IpfyqFVRyiq7WVg/s400/P1070615.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The one that didn't make it!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
flight took 45 minutes, leaving the flat plains around Nepalgunj and quickly
into the terraced hill country to the north, and eventually crossing numerous
high mountain ridges intersected by deep river valleys. The final approach was
interesting, a fairly sharp turn and a heavy landing on the short Simikot (now
tarmac) runway.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga8blRC8MWP0mYCoHQSXnv8-0FdZlS01UIlvu6hkva2j0CGXMTg7DCCzNKcX92yZlVOqcnJlNQrCkwd7W_8nLQdhR52fT_ymt563s28BFv5LHMDG6xGUi8KVhS0WvSxJ8LrDq0og/s1600/P1070620.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga8blRC8MWP0mYCoHQSXnv8-0FdZlS01UIlvu6hkva2j0CGXMTg7DCCzNKcX92yZlVOqcnJlNQrCkwd7W_8nLQdhR52fT_ymt563s28BFv5LHMDG6xGUi8KVhS0WvSxJ8LrDq0og/s400/P1070620.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Local Humla woman looking for porter work</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3_MbJg3tam8BxDR_Z9GtyUiPbRQfpMxjKjiIyzbyfEWdHDHLp8h9n_6NBogJObKXZp8NJ80cPHqCFsfIq6HzobJMwtgs3dFdBT6_DdxawmLVl8TG2AKOSl8G5GxF-BaTPTH_jfA/s1600/P1070621.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3_MbJg3tam8BxDR_Z9GtyUiPbRQfpMxjKjiIyzbyfEWdHDHLp8h9n_6NBogJObKXZp8NJ80cPHqCFsfIq6HzobJMwtgs3dFdBT6_DdxawmLVl8TG2AKOSl8G5GxF-BaTPTH_jfA/s400/P1070621.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwlyEyW_K6uY30oh1s64LgKn1hEVZYDNGR5CmCv9A7ldumJiYuBxxwnlZRoEm-X__yDxeUDfpEAbPQvayFupC53ZhUK9u5ltYnECs3C0OtNeeESt0YbbmSXhe_8G7DcI7N2WK4jQ/s1600/P1070623.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwlyEyW_K6uY30oh1s64LgKn1hEVZYDNGR5CmCv9A7ldumJiYuBxxwnlZRoEm-X__yDxeUDfpEAbPQvayFupC53ZhUK9u5ltYnECs3C0OtNeeESt0YbbmSXhe_8G7DcI7N2WK4jQ/s400/P1070623.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Quick lunch before the hard work starts!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
cleared the airport, an official extracting some spurious 'tax' for our group,
and we then had a quick lunch prepared by our new crew whilst the mules and
horses were loaded. We now have:</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">10
mules</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">2
horses</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">4
men to manage the animals </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Our
chief Sherpa Kaji</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Cook</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Assistant
cook</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Four
other chaps who do porter work and general camp duties.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Quite
a team!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Our
walk to the first camp started at about noon and we climbed steeply out of
Simikot, giving us fine views back to the village and the snow capped mountains
towering over it to the east. A good path, and we quickly gained 250m, noticing
that the folks in these parts are of a very different tribal background, the
women sporting nose rings and heavy gold earrings. Generally, people were
friendly on the trail, but the local kids were somewhat over-persistent in
their demand for sweets and pens. 'Hello, ben' was all we heard.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Our
initial ascent was followed by a steep 800m descent to the village of Masigaon,
tricky in places due to loose grit on the rocks and the steepness of the
ground. As we got lower, it got hotter and hotter, but our guide stopped for
breaks on a frequent basis. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbZPGd6gO1WInuN25KycjnE51s2uJ4R_5erSqp3Xb-en9jT_QVLqVEpxDVU2pejkCdUHNuzVP-snMBYYXy8oXYjMGodblzW9HfD0fmbEZmLPA3agnUhmCq9eZPEEXf_BcPdHv9IA/s1600/P1070624.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbZPGd6gO1WInuN25KycjnE51s2uJ4R_5erSqp3Xb-en9jT_QVLqVEpxDVU2pejkCdUHNuzVP-snMBYYXy8oXYjMGodblzW9HfD0fmbEZmLPA3agnUhmCq9eZPEEXf_BcPdHv9IA/s400/P1070624.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaving Simikot</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwXdA9tSgjSLiNpDrsrHPOfoOUoeZBnAkTXPDkVprFqBkd3Uj57D62xkn-SNUJMNqODK_G1oMvUtpmHGv0KntGAF6fQV6FfUZkI37TXoGZORjgOoqlz5UsQX5PRYhc5GlK7GATsg/s1600/P1070625.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwXdA9tSgjSLiNpDrsrHPOfoOUoeZBnAkTXPDkVprFqBkd3Uj57D62xkn-SNUJMNqODK_G1oMvUtpmHGv0KntGAF6fQV6FfUZkI37TXoGZORjgOoqlz5UsQX5PRYhc5GlK7GATsg/s640/P1070625.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwGOxifAzzgc2HXOBCNJ6E4TfHS5LhNsBYarue8FNiVjtCbC9s2UZzNZsWLnTeNSA638sBKj0QDAcqUjW_I8DlRtHza-s6ojXySjhLbxXsV3I1x3Pir6ErVjAb7LjNidRYf_pVBg/s1600/P1070631.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwGOxifAzzgc2HXOBCNJ6E4TfHS5LhNsBYarue8FNiVjtCbC9s2UZzNZsWLnTeNSA638sBKj0QDAcqUjW_I8DlRtHza-s6ojXySjhLbxXsV3I1x3Pir6ErVjAb7LjNidRYf_pVBg/s400/P1070631.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stumpy with the local ladies!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgChckcUhzB31bAk6Mn31q0cjBsLUNHnixOJGhhKSxbiowJJ3X6EZqdG52yq6kwOC_on1RbpZdzSQpd0iznZ5bN_dBuHJORy0e0Yvz4blOGWsjfB0BN24jPrEaR_AtsNJHBuFzl_g/s1600/P1070637.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgChckcUhzB31bAk6Mn31q0cjBsLUNHnixOJGhhKSxbiowJJ3X6EZqdG52yq6kwOC_on1RbpZdzSQpd0iznZ5bN_dBuHJORy0e0Yvz4blOGWsjfB0BN24jPrEaR_AtsNJHBuFzl_g/s400/P1070637.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heading into the Karnali valley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">As
we headed north west we gained better views of the Karnali River deeply
entrenched in the valley 400m below us, the river mainly running in rapids
given the drop down from the Tibetan plateau. Attractive country, big mountains
behind us, deep valleys ahead, barley and buck wheat ripening on the terraces
below us. Jackals called us from a path on the opposite side of the valley and
a solitary vulture circled high above. Do they know something we don't?!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBp29B7ApPwURujNnBUJ_FabQYF88s9CFnHONsivYM6K5kyJgxi8rGyIpa3sJGK-4OSW92pzEg3oI9wknM09lIbX529HPGdbs-57p_bRXZUR_US9eDgfYQzSy01GC3Mg1t8jTfTA/s1600/P1070648.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBp29B7ApPwURujNnBUJ_FabQYF88s9CFnHONsivYM6K5kyJgxi8rGyIpa3sJGK-4OSW92pzEg3oI9wknM09lIbX529HPGdbs-57p_bRXZUR_US9eDgfYQzSy01GC3Mg1t8jTfTA/s400/P1070648.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnMDMLFoS-wCfhOwYQQJSduVvUY1aCmQVmcPIl1VoRCegeaMY57VYTb2Ps4jC0D24zou4udKZ8Gc6sb6t3wZwxNbhTZ2KyMEoSR1kD4WAKUXG-VT2MAmbrBXufX5A4XZhlaPqD_w/s1600/P1070651.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnMDMLFoS-wCfhOwYQQJSduVvUY1aCmQVmcPIl1VoRCegeaMY57VYTb2Ps4jC0D24zou4udKZ8Gc6sb6t3wZwxNbhTZ2KyMEoSR1kD4WAKUXG-VT2MAmbrBXufX5A4XZhlaPqD_w/s400/P1070651.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9surf5BkDOGHoqhs8WIarnzyN5XtMYlMmD5rYds71BUiDBPR5v_TsWAin2G5zZlUD3qa2-f5PwmlC9NOaudw2LldYov3gZbaBHjmFpzq1mIL06B0crBhHbLweKKK5RMhoBDTbeg/s1600/P1070654.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9surf5BkDOGHoqhs8WIarnzyN5XtMYlMmD5rYds71BUiDBPR5v_TsWAin2G5zZlUD3qa2-f5PwmlC9NOaudw2LldYov3gZbaBHjmFpzq1mIL06B0crBhHbLweKKK5RMhoBDTbeg/s400/P1070654.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First camp at Dharapor</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">After
four hours we reached a basic campsite at Dharapor 2360m. Fortunately, Lhasa
Beer was available, so a few happy smiling faces :-)</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">As
I write the boys are wasting loads of time trying to get a mobile phone signal.
Glad I don't have to be so connected!!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Saturday
9 June</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">As
I write this, it's just getting dark. The tent is on the edge of a precipice.
On a ridge opposite the campsite, there's a couple of monks banging drums,
chanting and blowing the occasional blast on a conch shell. God knows how they
got on to the top of the ridge.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">It's
been a long day, starting well with a cheery breakfast, but off later than planned,
20 minutes after the scheduled start time. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">This
was to be an omen for the day. Stop, start. Stop, start. Magnificent walking up
the Karnali valley, moving from areas where buckwheat and barley were ripening
but eventually reaching pine forests amidst vertiginous valleys. The team and
the crew are moving at different paces and will need robust management tomorrow
to bring them into harmony. My job. So I've been grumpy all day. The weather
held, despite a big build up of cloud this afternoon, and the light was
brilliant when we arrived in camp.</span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjewVwRpigGhL986fLrEX6_jCiFMvDHPC0zgqSh86ZJ0HQICZyakBNVXvpWfMREF2ytGWf6gDLFTf17lU4Si00KpuVi-3C4rvKrpGcUOQLi10xyFtezXa3D-g5FLQgt2soZBqaAKA/s1600/P1070655_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjewVwRpigGhL986fLrEX6_jCiFMvDHPC0zgqSh86ZJ0HQICZyakBNVXvpWfMREF2ytGWf6gDLFTf17lU4Si00KpuVi-3C4rvKrpGcUOQLi10xyFtezXa3D-g5FLQgt2soZBqaAKA/s400/P1070655_2.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Karnali river valley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYWNPeRkFntjhmod8BiX-06GmgPrrG0p8QfXPq2vYUfpbB0bWCNGeH0X-gXjKNolmPbjKr0SehaLTWFiNpNnzubf4X2Qh68uwI7u2lTG-Zb9iH8QmQ1sV83E_F03ldTJ32qDvFxw/s1600/P1070658.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYWNPeRkFntjhmod8BiX-06GmgPrrG0p8QfXPq2vYUfpbB0bWCNGeH0X-gXjKNolmPbjKr0SehaLTWFiNpNnzubf4X2Qh68uwI7u2lTG-Zb9iH8QmQ1sV83E_F03ldTJ32qDvFxw/s640/P1070658.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXw-YbTTXRg7eiSoFBtAHUziLsqnKGbaDUDxFNfllQhd-oSmHD9EHUper06-XwjNAAyAI7MNmG88HDgdN3nGsL1MYmAnaV9gkRjiCyL6slktALMdqAwAiaP2-mJAjPQmbWK2D4bA/s1600/P1070661.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXw-YbTTXRg7eiSoFBtAHUziLsqnKGbaDUDxFNfllQhd-oSmHD9EHUper06-XwjNAAyAI7MNmG88HDgdN3nGsL1MYmAnaV9gkRjiCyL6slktALMdqAwAiaP2-mJAjPQmbWK2D4bA/s400/P1070661.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqZsXxy2ZUXE9PoG_Eyyg9hmwZlVvkMc9r0WMEiVJ4wW-BB7yCeOZQlwIzU1fKWSFxD06W2R7msBPkuJbJ_U4UNni-bQGlboRUw_hZ6fc3EVZiU0nmRZOCxpmJwtmj8m1HQEooqg/s1600/P1070663.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqZsXxy2ZUXE9PoG_Eyyg9hmwZlVvkMc9r0WMEiVJ4wW-BB7yCeOZQlwIzU1fKWSFxD06W2R7msBPkuJbJ_U4UNni-bQGlboRUw_hZ6fc3EVZiU0nmRZOCxpmJwtmj8m1HQEooqg/s400/P1070663.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUcMEYsumQpGnnBY2ni32GZI9gv-cJlqrYoS41VF39M0xiH7qzccOUfv__ZA356MYPbvRab-t77UyOBAw_qp54gSZ-SBf6g-ey20RIlzZHTLHNUlIFV7b9FPQFMLRE33kIWrEMQg/s1600/P1070668.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUcMEYsumQpGnnBY2ni32GZI9gv-cJlqrYoS41VF39M0xiH7qzccOUfv__ZA356MYPbvRab-t77UyOBAw_qp54gSZ-SBf6g-ey20RIlzZHTLHNUlIFV7b9FPQFMLRE33kIWrEMQg/s640/P1070668.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimxhfIPbZJnnXUASXjHeZHulCkK-_WdaQWPaIZM0BvTCqPOdKiYeaeA3D5GPxkJXB5s5g0RXUb5rjOLYdc6HYzQnNcPgOZ0IGa22K41T-6i3wDHU0hILGsDGP_Y3GIG8cYcWZBnw/s1600/P1070673.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimxhfIPbZJnnXUASXjHeZHulCkK-_WdaQWPaIZM0BvTCqPOdKiYeaeA3D5GPxkJXB5s5g0RXUb5rjOLYdc6HYzQnNcPgOZ0IGa22K41T-6i3wDHU0hILGsDGP_Y3GIG8cYcWZBnw/s640/P1070673.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0rWPVsGjqjseN2STJvFq0Xol-hEh94TPA-7f2Bs7pIZPLGOCRO3uG4gjqUKKo-G9tpyOV27S-20-4VLYQn3Q403rAnAgla7cEZ4jP1rc1K8iw3WzjX5hBImwrIRtJX7pR2c8JMQ/s1600/P1070676.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0rWPVsGjqjseN2STJvFq0Xol-hEh94TPA-7f2Bs7pIZPLGOCRO3uG4gjqUKKo-G9tpyOV27S-20-4VLYQn3Q403rAnAgla7cEZ4jP1rc1K8iw3WzjX5hBImwrIRtJX7pR2c8JMQ/s640/P1070676.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC7g3R4ymfh0LaZk8S93AXGjFbzlWzHPtsPE9Nk0LxArXmOtnF8Osf8I2GG7GUA0gZ1s5AEcmlnXliBJYmK3xYwXRTR0hYwOyPAlCx7fqagE6B4Gw9Xkc0TL6d3mkGHi1MrzFHXg/s1600/P1070681.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC7g3R4ymfh0LaZk8S93AXGjFbzlWzHPtsPE9Nk0LxArXmOtnF8Osf8I2GG7GUA0gZ1s5AEcmlnXliBJYmK3xYwXRTR0hYwOyPAlCx7fqagE6B4Gw9Xkc0TL6d3mkGHi1MrzFHXg/s640/P1070681.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzOT-nrgDJVapEenUE2ro4jgUSplprBI3lFY_zKVudOdWKN4PcZt1BebUavl7Bn_w7-KDlG4i5oxMr6AimKATi4ZC_SiuiS6u70DrRXccFdBqAHc0czGPE4VIYqvZRUVJ4ATnl9g/s1600/P1070683.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzOT-nrgDJVapEenUE2ro4jgUSplprBI3lFY_zKVudOdWKN4PcZt1BebUavl7Bn_w7-KDlG4i5oxMr6AimKATi4ZC_SiuiS6u70DrRXccFdBqAHc0czGPE4VIYqvZRUVJ4ATnl9g/s400/P1070683.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlOm53_E17PAmK0sKP8H0Qp6cp1EQqWXWauiEltanfIbfPyN4aufkO560Pn2TYmqCLb1fcPdGZnWqHa7-L0d5pbjkXlEAkSYYKzX9rIZgKhOHtShIEwG0jepghxhiof6Ww-f188Q/s1600/P1070689.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlOm53_E17PAmK0sKP8H0Qp6cp1EQqWXWauiEltanfIbfPyN4aufkO560Pn2TYmqCLb1fcPdGZnWqHa7-L0d5pbjkXlEAkSYYKzX9rIZgKhOHtShIEwG0jepghxhiof6Ww-f188Q/s400/P1070689.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEJRBDOG3auNW4YxVLM8aw-qjzSImCSiCR9Yev1SsEBjR8vp4X_xDBrZMsCQsBz8HXQRTDpwlgqoml_DwqCAJkQVAZMqHpd5c50aUv-3ZI8aSfWrgaxH5Ru994w-z4NAKh0HtrIA/s1600/P1070690.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEJRBDOG3auNW4YxVLM8aw-qjzSImCSiCR9Yev1SsEBjR8vp4X_xDBrZMsCQsBz8HXQRTDpwlgqoml_DwqCAJkQVAZMqHpd5c50aUv-3ZI8aSfWrgaxH5Ru994w-z4NAKh0HtrIA/s400/P1070690.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDWTMpyBjF-6_vBEiADttLQe_vvDBI-zdgiDC-7cNermG-zLuecWMTye85PeWzN-I2Cg8AmTqPqOJ2hyVXVJa92grHBFpxkunjRhs2YJFnG3PoHnw7b0AfONt2qS_isWCgNogFxw/s1600/P1070694.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDWTMpyBjF-6_vBEiADttLQe_vvDBI-zdgiDC-7cNermG-zLuecWMTye85PeWzN-I2Cg8AmTqPqOJ2hyVXVJa92grHBFpxkunjRhs2YJFnG3PoHnw7b0AfONt2qS_isWCgNogFxw/s400/P1070694.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl4guomHyZIlcHdru4K0F9rQY-eaj4cCf1hXrbaxLZIFwR9nZRAMquN8Mhzq552drHjQLYRSEg7In_x9gnulDMDCyXXMfRQzA5FQNrsuV3TH7ATRXiKIDaiblBnKUQLC1_4wvFuA/s1600/P1070696.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl4guomHyZIlcHdru4K0F9rQY-eaj4cCf1hXrbaxLZIFwR9nZRAMquN8Mhzq552drHjQLYRSEg7In_x9gnulDMDCyXXMfRQzA5FQNrsuV3TH7ATRXiKIDaiblBnKUQLC1_4wvFuA/s400/P1070696.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJAlohbmyd4PCT2j13Kkne6LFLjYRqve7sPWPvKEDSMc5sos1kyfe-2L6nPOIhDOQ20LIoUoILHFGNSODFQtsvolX72UeZkm7NwuFGoIPhXvfgBrE5jRB62EoTiAfpxdLTz6OwPw/s1600/P1070706.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJAlohbmyd4PCT2j13Kkne6LFLjYRqve7sPWPvKEDSMc5sos1kyfe-2L6nPOIhDOQ20LIoUoILHFGNSODFQtsvolX72UeZkm7NwuFGoIPhXvfgBrE5jRB62EoTiAfpxdLTz6OwPw/s400/P1070706.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQbwejfbpKrMU0ngSbZuj0IJe2GvvsUoEG_fxvxFjp4gyY1Jx1ZjOfiDI4gfdRLLMOihlrov2vYn2xM0qbcTjoCljCNvCYdpm1znbHwpUQinfSKDlI3gzTFlibWJFHEicgleXz7g/s1600/P1070708.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQbwejfbpKrMU0ngSbZuj0IJe2GvvsUoEG_fxvxFjp4gyY1Jx1ZjOfiDI4gfdRLLMOihlrov2vYn2xM0qbcTjoCljCNvCYdpm1znbHwpUQinfSKDlI3gzTFlibWJFHEicgleXz7g/s400/P1070708.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camp at Yalbang</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US">We're
now at 3000m, adjacent to a village called Yulwang (Yalbang), and we're about
halfway between Simikot and Hilsa on the Tibetan border. The walking has been
straightforward, typically Himalayan...'a little bit up, and a little bit
down'...they are masters of understatement here! We've climbed about 700m in
terms of net gain today, but that completely understates the amount of effort.
Steady climbs, steep descents, unstable paths in places...all part of the trekking
experience!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
late dinner tonight, as the cooking crew took an eternity to get to camp. A
word in the ear of our head Sherpa later methinks...</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Sunday
10 June </b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">What
a night. Started raining within an hour of settling down. Then the monks
started. Banging drums, blowing conch shells...this was their outdoor retreat,
over a week, designed to draw out local demons and subjugate them with ritual
and prayer. But not in my backyard please! Then a small pack of jackals arrived
in camp, one announcing their arrival with the usual howl. They were quickly
dispatched by our crew, but at 3 o'clock in the morning, with monks still
active around us in various strategic positions it was not a night to sleep
solidly.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8ZgPkzt1PhM-v45A-bZbxyNJXO-5XdfIkxQInkMR-dyNlXyjFviZbT4SFA2cQ52vooNOA8Nc_BP6HCf7Q-8JJpDLfWQabg7MqpR52Pk9A9hqSrom9QGx9sXYILzcBsBYAjS2npg/s1600/P1070711.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8ZgPkzt1PhM-v45A-bZbxyNJXO-5XdfIkxQInkMR-dyNlXyjFviZbT4SFA2cQ52vooNOA8Nc_BP6HCf7Q-8JJpDLfWQabg7MqpR52Pk9A9hqSrom9QGx9sXYILzcBsBYAjS2npg/s400/P1070711.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The offending monk!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKJVK1YmME26NilHVlf9adxWJE_FBROTXm5spSqYLW_U7y-qgz-d_O9s3lV6_jXBNU50ZkFuNyVxa7lUMuD-L4m79Iohj5E_AmhWFM0wQYYXRUBgGZuivMpHikd-U79WWoINMfXw/s1600/P1070714.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKJVK1YmME26NilHVlf9adxWJE_FBROTXm5spSqYLW_U7y-qgz-d_O9s3lV6_jXBNU50ZkFuNyVxa7lUMuD-L4m79Iohj5E_AmhWFM0wQYYXRUBgGZuivMpHikd-U79WWoINMfXw/s400/P1070714.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">With
the trekking routine sorted out with our Sherpa we set off at about 0720 and
continued our steadily rising traverse along the banks of the Karnali river.
Shaded at first, but soon baking in the sun, we ascended and descended numerous
spurs, with the pine forest eventually thinning and stunted trees and juniper
starting to appear as the valley widened around Muchu. Passing through another
checkpoint we eventually arrived in the small hamlet of Tumkot (Dhumbu) where
we had a leisurely packed lunch in a small teahouse.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFdASJmjGO8ctvXP9_HHA3NV9LtkUjd_rvx3-tIhDTyJ4tKJfYJQH4PjHam9IOJbGpk0stb2gKJnL11fR17oV0eqhsJnEm772m9Bsi1PvTJFbfa5WBmDN0wbY_Jp9RHK5n8gVE_g/s1600/P1070720.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFdASJmjGO8ctvXP9_HHA3NV9LtkUjd_rvx3-tIhDTyJ4tKJfYJQH4PjHam9IOJbGpk0stb2gKJnL11fR17oV0eqhsJnEm772m9Bsi1PvTJFbfa5WBmDN0wbY_Jp9RHK5n8gVE_g/s400/P1070720.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXdaJDLftr2dR7syUdrXv_0uwY065fKEq0NTVhF1uPFY3MVhY8DzG-0coGPBuspaY6AaA2VKd9sKyLqjEaRcf7PDsFnHsiZ-1yWFVe4kNCvH7U5YHv4r4TVU14SVHmjsouk5iT7Q/s1600/P1070723.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXdaJDLftr2dR7syUdrXv_0uwY065fKEq0NTVhF1uPFY3MVhY8DzG-0coGPBuspaY6AaA2VKd9sKyLqjEaRcf7PDsFnHsiZ-1yWFVe4kNCvH7U5YHv4r4TVU14SVHmjsouk5iT7Q/s400/P1070723.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Then,
after crossing a suspension bridge, we started the big climb towards our next
stop, Pani Palbang, a trading post with access to China via a rudimentary road
to the border at Hilsa. The climb was about 400m, made more difficult by the
hot sun beating down upon us, and increasing fatigue in the group...the two
horses came in useful.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlmStbAZh2ZY9OXxBaj3CdkXkCcLrtiGpSpMKKpnQX9pbsrWl5UCkqPzzDCeCvGUek0YZ3dS2OmoowuvG5helmsPcdXgz5R7ftfB2QBfFpI6rejn2ZUy6AAycSqZSqE9YbZv-ZNw/s1600/P1070730.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlmStbAZh2ZY9OXxBaj3CdkXkCcLrtiGpSpMKKpnQX9pbsrWl5UCkqPzzDCeCvGUek0YZ3dS2OmoowuvG5helmsPcdXgz5R7ftfB2QBfFpI6rejn2ZUy6AAycSqZSqE9YbZv-ZNw/s400/P1070730.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH4sjOgCajDmYijhDjTqpX275ee5vK0G4g6OiEemJLR5L1tx3BnSgmOv5-t73ah_RFgEvm-vt2p1OXGpGTvm-21dmSUjOnsnjG2AMCMKnvvxCdz0qI6O5KwvIGx6x-sfm4lrbltA/s1600/P1070734.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH4sjOgCajDmYijhDjTqpX275ee5vK0G4g6OiEemJLR5L1tx3BnSgmOv5-t73ah_RFgEvm-vt2p1OXGpGTvm-21dmSUjOnsnjG2AMCMKnvvxCdz0qI6O5KwvIGx6x-sfm4lrbltA/s400/P1070734.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
common sight on the trail has become herds of ronglu sheep with little
backpacks stuffed with goods from China, including white flour and
beer/alcohol. They used to carry rice or salt, but times move on!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpJn4IzigTWSQHo_57RHUlW-4n5oAuwsQWijEdRSap4ouuTKgZshpEGHJRq9XZXY0d8fP0bwcmXJp9dIyDCWWhOHDJ2rFFgH1LaSU8i2qaDzlXEv-E-mNXCsFPB0DyyxeIEj0eNg/s1600/P1070679_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpJn4IzigTWSQHo_57RHUlW-4n5oAuwsQWijEdRSap4ouuTKgZshpEGHJRq9XZXY0d8fP0bwcmXJp9dIyDCWWhOHDJ2rFFgH1LaSU8i2qaDzlXEv-E-mNXCsFPB0DyyxeIEj0eNg/s640/P1070679_2.jpg" height="640" width="494" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Great
views back down the Karnali valley with some serious mountains appearing from
our lofty viewpoint, then a 'level' traversing path to Pani Palbang, made a bit
tricky in places where workman had started to prepare the rock for a future
road...some easy scrambling, but the big exposure got the adrenalin going for
all!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Finally,
after about 8 hours, we arrived in the sprawling camp site of Pani Palbang,
comprising trader's seasonal camp emplacements from which they hawked white
four, rice, noodles, beer and wine from China into the Humla valleys and
beyond. We found a rough spot in one of the bigger tents to relax and enjoy a
beer whilst the camp was assembled. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg20FzypnVzqeIAMxINbMgmgRt1IzCge96jkQrq9N3MZ0f6pyel-7c3deFwuQ1oASlcSMw26K0TVHJ53L9VDij1AmeWfyYnNmzPNuEIQ7jKWOWtFUud3zxWDfjHdQRk-x2b851gvg/s1600/P1070735.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg20FzypnVzqeIAMxINbMgmgRt1IzCge96jkQrq9N3MZ0f6pyel-7c3deFwuQ1oASlcSMw26K0TVHJ53L9VDij1AmeWfyYnNmzPNuEIQ7jKWOWtFUud3zxWDfjHdQRk-x2b851gvg/s400/P1070735.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pani Palbang</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU2jGOrcdFBz8KtwWmGZ1bf3XvAqMMFPSMsW-PFwpF8OKaxStHDoZzISasyJ4F-JSBYCJlOvzZUVHPqQucQaQif4LTmHrJnpwyWYIymIlJNlVabhMfQgYk9rLJ7wG3ymsMRY51zg/s1600/P1070738.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU2jGOrcdFBz8KtwWmGZ1bf3XvAqMMFPSMsW-PFwpF8OKaxStHDoZzISasyJ4F-JSBYCJlOvzZUVHPqQucQaQif4LTmHrJnpwyWYIymIlJNlVabhMfQgYk9rLJ7wG3ymsMRY51zg/s400/P1070738.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-US">A lot of tired folks in the team
tonight...we're now at about 3500m and it's been a sustained trekking day
today. Should sleep well tonight...no monks spotted, but I suppose there's
always the local jackals to disturb us! Still no means of contacting the
outside world. No mobile signal for days now, but the prospect of a landline in
Hilsa tomorrow...only eight hours hard graft away...</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Monday
11 June</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">...and
it was hard work. The day started easily with a walk along a dirt road that has
now been built as far as Pani Palbang. Over the next three hours we gained
about 500m with the Yari Khola valley widening and new views to 7000m peaks
emerging to the west. Passing through the small hamlets of Yari, we eventually
reached a resting place at Shiv Shiv, and the full picture of the final
700-800m pull up to the pass of Nara La 4560m was laid before us. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuL7gueABG-_Q1CIUTyPekBuzP_9ZvX0z8R0HmBeTzdQFc-j1Mqz5JRPuQsldxLBAhYt9g7N4n9f8hplJdVfC9Y4G1m2vgdA6R91vxROVBrPqpWqZ8hmB632xKU2nESdtbZ3pUtw/s1600/P1070745.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuL7gueABG-_Q1CIUTyPekBuzP_9ZvX0z8R0HmBeTzdQFc-j1Mqz5JRPuQsldxLBAhYt9g7N4n9f8hplJdVfC9Y4G1m2vgdA6R91vxROVBrPqpWqZ8hmB632xKU2nESdtbZ3pUtw/s400/P1070745.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3N9MYKEXOqzv8ukM9UEZxz8lTrVpgGYFlwtmZ0vSd8Hq-0HaUkK70bAd6AVkMRKABFI_cA3HXcIbZsndqhyphenhyphenwkSFtNelHG-n67pOyb4TgQQbHNq-XQwod-BGTafNbIAoTqeKB1bQ/s1600/P1070750.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3N9MYKEXOqzv8ukM9UEZxz8lTrVpgGYFlwtmZ0vSd8Hq-0HaUkK70bAd6AVkMRKABFI_cA3HXcIbZsndqhyphenhyphenwkSFtNelHG-n67pOyb4TgQQbHNq-XQwod-BGTafNbIAoTqeKB1bQ/s400/P1070750.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg659GKcZ3sKVo7jbNKaXmq_yasL8516a5l-0fs-OUHgDBUt2VmuGp35JgPFqO7bYUamm6Gq8UZUnezqqNiZL1c6lf_yaDuOZ5AV3KIxjlDPyEGtVqj5gV7afQpvFe-7syV10GBQw/s1600/P1070753.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg659GKcZ3sKVo7jbNKaXmq_yasL8516a5l-0fs-OUHgDBUt2VmuGp35JgPFqO7bYUamm6Gq8UZUnezqqNiZL1c6lf_yaDuOZ5AV3KIxjlDPyEGtVqj5gV7afQpvFe-7syV10GBQw/s400/P1070753.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approach to the Nara La</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US">Easy at
first, but then the climb became a little more tricky with sloping paths on
loose ground. A little respite for most of us when we crossed on to the dirt
road, then a sustained 200m pull up steep loose ground brought us to the pass,
very windy at the top here, but great views back to our earlier route, and,
behold....the mountains of Tibet ahead of us, with the prominent holy peak of
Gurla Mandata revealing itself.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikcZjrBoxyS8bgid0t3N4o8hgpo8-S4TOgbHZheMosgCZqFGFFR3vPC1ymjosR7ni3tTvubvdWWG6HUqJtlqrFJS6_rL8-pvBorNlQLdPxnfIyJEQC3lhFwRe4rxozztfmUJ5Cyw/s1600/P1070762.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikcZjrBoxyS8bgid0t3N4o8hgpo8-S4TOgbHZheMosgCZqFGFFR3vPC1ymjosR7ni3tTvubvdWWG6HUqJtlqrFJS6_rL8-pvBorNlQLdPxnfIyJEQC3lhFwRe4rxozztfmUJ5Cyw/s400/P1070762.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtxVKvyoAcB4bubIwTP1YlH8Z1YK76kQngDXORMsgF5vPNfSTL7zsYMeFHSEDJebl08xoBUqMV9M5vxi6-GV95A-tvlu1HdUNfn48bzpRR5pSteCfApqBzBOnZTKmKwamXK7iHwQ/s1600/P1070768.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtxVKvyoAcB4bubIwTP1YlH8Z1YK76kQngDXORMsgF5vPNfSTL7zsYMeFHSEDJebl08xoBUqMV9M5vxi6-GV95A-tvlu1HdUNfn48bzpRR5pSteCfApqBzBOnZTKmKwamXK7iHwQ/s640/P1070768.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK3dmDu6dPBhOTGPoL1gKiRAZG7R3rVgLHwprY9_LuQmSJAXQarRzQtOoTU5CHZDMcXq1ry43Dr55-75-91Ry0gVdTgtGD6Z4r7qOMRRWYTOxNOKNz2zzDiGTRxvz2peG6U6Z9Vw/s1600/P1070772.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK3dmDu6dPBhOTGPoL1gKiRAZG7R3rVgLHwprY9_LuQmSJAXQarRzQtOoTU5CHZDMcXq1ry43Dr55-75-91Ry0gVdTgtGD6Z4r7qOMRRWYTOxNOKNz2zzDiGTRxvz2peG6U6Z9Vw/s400/P1070772.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The team crossing the Nara La at 4560m</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
could also see the start of the Limi Valley trek, a high level and seemingly
exposed path running high above the deeply cut valley, and the town of Sera,
the other side of the river, across the Tibetan border.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
took a steep path down from the pass, but mainly followed the dirt road down as
the old trading route path looked steep, unstable and very exposed. Some
amazing views on the north side of the pass...some huge scree slopes, hundreds
of metres in height, huge ravines, and views all the way into Tibet.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_iERcQzR_JQvnBp5jT9QjzNB29UfvRuyhxbG5xGRqjoxPKStV4H6d0iQ2SE-vWusHCL3uVYeDVnYnyM_XAvzZ_wjJ0xSMA7SBdLBHusWgeSQ48VKkR1pX4G1GYQZHRgDBlp4z6w/s1600/P1070773.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_iERcQzR_JQvnBp5jT9QjzNB29UfvRuyhxbG5xGRqjoxPKStV4H6d0iQ2SE-vWusHCL3uVYeDVnYnyM_XAvzZ_wjJ0xSMA7SBdLBHusWgeSQ48VKkR1pX4G1GYQZHRgDBlp4z6w/s400/P1070773.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our first view into Tibet, the border following the peaks on the skyline</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvRNFuVBOx3qBUlhyEkOgd4IxqjxFi_mF3eGqZEhqiy2anSKxyQLlbt4BiSeCcmDo9AKQjAwweMISaz8J0lqMXBViJpsfNxDPt4E2FI772RRGkXsP62_UTzaTpPK8-Sj6J3Wb_LQ/s1600/P1070780.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvRNFuVBOx3qBUlhyEkOgd4IxqjxFi_mF3eGqZEhqiy2anSKxyQLlbt4BiSeCcmDo9AKQjAwweMISaz8J0lqMXBViJpsfNxDPt4E2FI772RRGkXsP62_UTzaTpPK8-Sj6J3Wb_LQ/s400/P1070780.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Descending to Hilsa, and Tibet just across the valley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTQRrK09VtU7aFM9-yQkCCMEqSRm-oFrr1QaYa5NdPOqS24GP47qqv9BjOC1gbd7ZWuEoFASIeShGabk7th2S8SkTygOmEEJXWL6F0ST5p1SPK1L__90MPP0tVQdefovNXRkWKsA/s1600/P1070781.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTQRrK09VtU7aFM9-yQkCCMEqSRm-oFrr1QaYa5NdPOqS24GP47qqv9BjOC1gbd7ZWuEoFASIeShGabk7th2S8SkTygOmEEJXWL6F0ST5p1SPK1L__90MPP0tVQdefovNXRkWKsA/s400/P1070781.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some beauty in this most barren of landscapes...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimBqJrqhmJY61GNGTaDe7OzXBH0mSnxQwZ6nqKTH0WAaPQYl9DVcINnkUARBWZAzxxFLegUnUQJjjqAemsMlKWMW52jFb9_HoSWsIN83ebO3_q3IXQtOxv6csoIqzeyD4cYGNxIw/s1600/P1070783.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimBqJrqhmJY61GNGTaDe7OzXBH0mSnxQwZ6nqKTH0WAaPQYl9DVcINnkUARBWZAzxxFLegUnUQJjjqAemsMlKWMW52jFb9_HoSWsIN83ebO3_q3IXQtOxv6csoIqzeyD4cYGNxIw/s400/P1070783.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spot our path for tomorrow's walk!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3t5UXX-UIsG68jFRGlixOslSxEV1w3OOVUhtH_t-kVM07FFZfq_-dxDye1oyceZwjO2i-y4X4UegpAv7YKc7rpNcva4eLj_sMEdybkflptfJJrNkuEpZuZ8ayeC7VxB_4VmvAuQ/s1600/P1070790.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3t5UXX-UIsG68jFRGlixOslSxEV1w3OOVUhtH_t-kVM07FFZfq_-dxDye1oyceZwjO2i-y4X4UegpAv7YKc7rpNcva4eLj_sMEdybkflptfJJrNkuEpZuZ8ayeC7VxB_4VmvAuQ/s400/P1070790.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rough road down to Hilsa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBwhlX3J4JU8yKTW_rX2rXARL-nmGfu22hxMzBbgEjZnH6a4Q40cv1UN9G24beBuw8qqELnIUkJ2h5NIyyTJnDF1Wh4i4rwD1YJt4L_y28qktRPtEZlQXlv6Z2B3fZ2R1A35JNdg/s1600/P1070793.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBwhlX3J4JU8yKTW_rX2rXARL-nmGfu22hxMzBbgEjZnH6a4Q40cv1UN9G24beBuw8qqELnIUkJ2h5NIyyTJnDF1Wh4i4rwD1YJt4L_y28qktRPtEZlQXlv6Z2B3fZ2R1A35JNdg/s400/P1070793.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The old trader's paths from the Nara La to Hilsa, very exposed!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhckZkK8Cs-EdsDmF1hwZDb8e4CqrhfkHOhLZEB4LjwfjR0FWBjPiYzSGS4VYwaX-AttnGPFoqzdfA5fEU2f6hxjOo4Kbe6mnn1d11UjixtLldhLKj57NQXC_mQjk30KH-9GfzaJg/s1600/P1070807.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhckZkK8Cs-EdsDmF1hwZDb8e4CqrhfkHOhLZEB4LjwfjR0FWBjPiYzSGS4VYwaX-AttnGPFoqzdfA5fEU2f6hxjOo4Kbe6mnn1d11UjixtLldhLKj57NQXC_mQjk30KH-9GfzaJg/s400/P1070807.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Nepal/Tibet border at Hilsa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
finally reached Hilsa, 3647m, mid afternoon and the mules had yet to catch up
with us, so we had a couple of beers outside a basic teahouse, glaring at the
Chinese border post up on the hill opposite us in the afternoon sun, with a
dusty wind blasting us from time to time.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
camp was on an open plain just above the village, so probably windy tonight,
but a spectacular setting nonetheless. This is just about as remote and cut-off
as I've ever been!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLspS9S1bzhrTmCQV_3x7IbgyRUzgv4cjCxnH3YAEBZ4BhmqgErJ3RUCUp5BuPpaMxqWvCgTv4cl3q5CarcCtARdQkPrQxKcTBaHFMXqM9NTbBib7CVEaFXXmfjYqSGjMMdHQFPw/s1600/P1070809.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLspS9S1bzhrTmCQV_3x7IbgyRUzgv4cjCxnH3YAEBZ4BhmqgErJ3RUCUp5BuPpaMxqWvCgTv4cl3q5CarcCtARdQkPrQxKcTBaHFMXqM9NTbBib7CVEaFXXmfjYqSGjMMdHQFPw/s400/P1070809.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hilsa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdWLPKegV2NbFudmL5l3pQbSWIPB6s9dEUtK6kqqfyNN6DANBlXXiMuzvpOut9iS6Bt-hGA7K_T-zouaRaETYPbxw30LAvjFEOIwKOdxm_78c8yckYuGRfl6dGr8FQwp68MGzWpQ/s1600/P1070811.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdWLPKegV2NbFudmL5l3pQbSWIPB6s9dEUtK6kqqfyNN6DANBlXXiMuzvpOut9iS6Bt-hGA7K_T-zouaRaETYPbxw30LAvjFEOIwKOdxm_78c8yckYuGRfl6dGr8FQwp68MGzWpQ/s400/P1070811.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Tuesday
12 June</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
big day for more reasons than you might imagine. I had made a phone call the
previous day, as there was a mobile telephone mast over the border in Tibet,
courtesy of China Telecom. From this I had heard that my son's partner, Ashley,
had gone into labour, so I was very keen to establish if I was a grandad yet!
So at 0300, I turned on 'roaming' and found pictures of newborn Olivia, 8 lbs 4
oz on WhatsApp. What a delight! A little texting with my son and daughter then
ensued, followed by a persistent village dog who moved from one end of the
village to another barking his head off. Ear plugs in, and, unusually, had to be
woken for the usual 0530 tea in tent.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmZXZ39HHQTeEDkpVKNC66zxR3VkT_Dy_ErlKoZaMV-PfDjTXB9tSUe91QrDaewDrvQPpGgELaZnl1zVvKbZ9FRf68K7tFSWtHbL7aF_YnDEcVtasS_V6xKr0ndYdeCZoVpmBbhg/s1600/P1070813.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmZXZ39HHQTeEDkpVKNC66zxR3VkT_Dy_ErlKoZaMV-PfDjTXB9tSUe91QrDaewDrvQPpGgELaZnl1zVvKbZ9FRf68K7tFSWtHbL7aF_YnDEcVtasS_V6xKr0ndYdeCZoVpmBbhg/s400/P1070813.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camp at Hilsa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ6jhS52aFKiAv0wFU5umrZk0FbRENIJoiiQkl4WCgYZGpF_s8ujAK9HprRcqVK6gMhfAs3nItoUW3zSkFYr6MRV1EzVIQNfCBi7VmXPmya-gCqFJrhid_TacTv-HcMIpY9_pEQw/s1600/P1070819.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ6jhS52aFKiAv0wFU5umrZk0FbRENIJoiiQkl4WCgYZGpF_s8ujAK9HprRcqVK6gMhfAs3nItoUW3zSkFYr6MRV1EzVIQNfCBi7VmXPmya-gCqFJrhid_TacTv-HcMIpY9_pEQw/s400/P1070819.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc2WZlEHL4q_cTXAJ7l7Ht_dXozgD6_23N967jGWYELlKgYUQoNIOV9Q9T-WdnXrSkKeIkAw6eZkKFjF0kDUzweWMF1SPXG49jh74S383zeSnXzi8iPhgz8gruQFEwtpCRr2ErAg/s1600/P1070821.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc2WZlEHL4q_cTXAJ7l7Ht_dXozgD6_23N967jGWYELlKgYUQoNIOV9Q9T-WdnXrSkKeIkAw6eZkKFjF0kDUzweWMF1SPXG49jh74S383zeSnXzi8iPhgz8gruQFEwtpCRr2ErAg/s640/P1070821.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Start of our trek into the Limi valley </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJmzyJUJFN_NEkLlm7Ak463KzKdO7bNBcfEow66Lg4tN45Y4kv4cMJoxTNFSqM8vNbojsrQKnlP5F_SlYiO2gwxOK2MBetRbRe6GFIU2hCRiyZSpMQ6wh5PbbFbxsKiTxk95sLBA/s1600/P1070822.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJmzyJUJFN_NEkLlm7Ak463KzKdO7bNBcfEow66Lg4tN45Y4kv4cMJoxTNFSqM8vNbojsrQKnlP5F_SlYiO2gwxOK2MBetRbRe6GFIU2hCRiyZSpMQ6wh5PbbFbxsKiTxk95sLBA/s400/P1070822.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Karnali river at Hilsa, Tibet beyond the blue huts</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">This
was also a big walking day, now heading east towards the Limi Khola valley, and
due to the position of the Chinese border, this required an incredibly steep
start once we'd crossed the Karnali River on a suspension bridge. I had been
concerned all night about the stability of the slope and the safety of the team
getting up it, but everyone coped admirably. The scree led us to an
unrelentingly steep path, which ultimately joined the trader's route coming in
from Tibet (which can only be used by locals - they are allowed to venture up
to 30km into Tibet by the Chinese authorities). Here we met a family group of
four from the village of Halji, further up the Limi Valley, with a one and a
half year old child strapped to his mother's back, having been all the way to
Taklakot in Tibet to receive treatment for pneumonia...what a life these folks
lead!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhII9yeQRcMQb2l1virDi91Oph7iclf4pYPnjtWFaXKTEP1CKQinBPn59rSRAb2lcxz8p7ZcDqkgVVE4jbGg6vh_deS0zT1zDxrav2z9L4vFXYRUV4weIGiHSg5NceEWk_kOtPfZA/s1600/P1070824.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhII9yeQRcMQb2l1virDi91Oph7iclf4pYPnjtWFaXKTEP1CKQinBPn59rSRAb2lcxz8p7ZcDqkgVVE4jbGg6vh_deS0zT1zDxrav2z9L4vFXYRUV4weIGiHSg5NceEWk_kOtPfZA/s640/P1070824.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The very steep start up from Hilsa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG7htbbjaNBGytfR0JHBSy_qtbAFLDraXy3aCh9K-0S1H_uZv6ygUb2schkeOM9Avrs-NoMgOLz3nHrgGCeSq-Qx6VdG_VUd_SztlQoFhoEoa-t9jczqNHL3c5oM4t5JOI0T3C2w/s1600/P1070827.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG7htbbjaNBGytfR0JHBSy_qtbAFLDraXy3aCh9K-0S1H_uZv6ygUb2schkeOM9Avrs-NoMgOLz3nHrgGCeSq-Qx6VdG_VUd_SztlQoFhoEoa-t9jczqNHL3c5oM4t5JOI0T3C2w/s640/P1070827.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA5utk1dnpdfjJkrWc8X7xYi9lg4bXy-ckO0RVFspd8DtcMoJhl5navbmPy2Gm8zELfgAtHFgazVaxhAECxaNZqpgwNVRngYk-cp_9QD_QHQ2wJNQBqjLLnz10_AueBFRxZngqVA/s1600/P1070831.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA5utk1dnpdfjJkrWc8X7xYi9lg4bXy-ckO0RVFspd8DtcMoJhl5navbmPy2Gm8zELfgAtHFgazVaxhAECxaNZqpgwNVRngYk-cp_9QD_QHQ2wJNQBqjLLnz10_AueBFRxZngqVA/s400/P1070831.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hilsa receding far below</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7qFNBifxeZOxsZWutNwXEkvnjJD1bSJtMl42hL0HuHy2CUINbr2eZZL2x9g4c0H9KIcg64htSmLSgqvP9Z-WyP45Eo_YebHxPVhOSpxgTA8XUUbL0vGn8PV4ydLwKsaXQONPuLQ/s1600/P1070833.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7qFNBifxeZOxsZWutNwXEkvnjJD1bSJtMl42hL0HuHy2CUINbr2eZZL2x9g4c0H9KIcg64htSmLSgqvP9Z-WyP45Eo_YebHxPVhOSpxgTA8XUUbL0vGn8PV4ydLwKsaXQONPuLQ/s400/P1070833.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Locals on the trail, having trekked from Taklakot in Tibet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
path became much more stable underfoot, and we made good progress, now
oscillating between 3900m and 4100m as
the day progressed, with precipitous drops to our right virtually all of the
way...again, not somewhere for anyone with vertigo...</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglTT7punk8RNX21A_8_eVEjvpgI3MOXnvRPlN470ArJlIOG2sbAfGWsSvPKd7kIsaEEBnPwDIfv-IUNx_9u2GFP_pzImZYol55cQlKLpIPj-4WW4J1q0VeMqLtKWZR5MviCOrwuw/s1600/P1070835.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglTT7punk8RNX21A_8_eVEjvpgI3MOXnvRPlN470ArJlIOG2sbAfGWsSvPKd7kIsaEEBnPwDIfv-IUNx_9u2GFP_pzImZYol55cQlKLpIPj-4WW4J1q0VeMqLtKWZR5MviCOrwuw/s400/P1070835.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yesterday's descent route and Hilsa in the valley bottom</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj18E4q7xpEQUzkSbYcJxwcKitbRfkWPGPNMzD1Guz9UxEKer6S4KiYp_QkouTRCvO9DbR106RvI1NjRPaIm19mHmMU1a1hJ2YW-X7JG3QI-fqWh9oWgIR1GWX7DF6v2xAfgASLrg/s1600/P1070839.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj18E4q7xpEQUzkSbYcJxwcKitbRfkWPGPNMzD1Guz9UxEKer6S4KiYp_QkouTRCvO9DbR106RvI1NjRPaIm19mHmMU1a1hJ2YW-X7JG3QI-fqWh9oWgIR1GWX7DF6v2xAfgASLrg/s400/P1070839.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvd3QO3TIXsJxYxDENDYlhyphenhyphenI2UjHAAX-uCBhRbN7ZSr8OmsW-8cWyY-D54N4O7O9cSF0YSK_M2Rw5dnAiWmeyDdxL_tnO0bsv3-ORTbk8EdXUD0VczIgoIAUgn8dc3xVrJ6zwDBA/s1600/P1070840.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvd3QO3TIXsJxYxDENDYlhyphenhyphenI2UjHAAX-uCBhRbN7ZSr8OmsW-8cWyY-D54N4O7O9cSF0YSK_M2Rw5dnAiWmeyDdxL_tnO0bsv3-ORTbk8EdXUD0VczIgoIAUgn8dc3xVrJ6zwDBA/s640/P1070840.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Exposed walking high above the Karnali canyon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE-MC2AzvPi2R8IbuMfiDmQCAdPxaYRr2mTKgzrRBoow1JI9cYNwbtfr22ih_pZLdRXKJKqkXFHB100ZvgY3sfBmfJbxHj-1bohVFg1F0T89xHzOYB1wiiP1Yi9xp5Bttl_EHWtQ/s1600/P1070841.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE-MC2AzvPi2R8IbuMfiDmQCAdPxaYRr2mTKgzrRBoow1JI9cYNwbtfr22ih_pZLdRXKJKqkXFHB100ZvgY3sfBmfJbxHj-1bohVFg1F0T89xHzOYB1wiiP1Yi9xp5Bttl_EHWtQ/s400/P1070841.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">It
got very hot during the day as we continued along the path, occasionally
crossing very steep ground as we passed numerous ravines and side valleys
entering into the Karnali, which for a period flowed through one of the
steepest canyons I've ever seen. Awesome, but needing a lot of concentration on
feet placement in some places.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuEwbUFGkBEUt1Lcwj3QxvZCsPMi2VHiaA4_nL3lxpMQZEg0plQT-HP9XnmjlpR45XFoAlDAKhbXyctLCP4B1aFBVMHh0aV0BH8b1j4C8jHcI_M_yWlONvV3xU7Cmt84DUEWWOrA/s1600/P1070846.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuEwbUFGkBEUt1Lcwj3QxvZCsPMi2VHiaA4_nL3lxpMQZEg0plQT-HP9XnmjlpR45XFoAlDAKhbXyctLCP4B1aFBVMHh0aV0BH8b1j4C8jHcI_M_yWlONvV3xU7Cmt84DUEWWOrA/s400/P1070846.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinFhCYNxCc3yNWsVyOHX2PcsWB09LoqDiYGkkkTz8XOyba8AqnRIKi6FHU1H6NIXt54l2IVBLJYR8027lBNadtiWIgvaf6Ze54d1uKltt0LtgSVlbqxS92vYuDVO37T9nqJZbwMw/s1600/P1070848.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinFhCYNxCc3yNWsVyOHX2PcsWB09LoqDiYGkkkTz8XOyba8AqnRIKi6FHU1H6NIXt54l2IVBLJYR8027lBNadtiWIgvaf6Ze54d1uKltt0LtgSVlbqxS92vYuDVO37T9nqJZbwMw/s640/P1070848.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An outstanding mountain path, as long as you don't suffer from vertigo!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_nOdtL5jbyHvgNLf8-N3lIz9ZaxqN3sRp-27X83GjbjPd9kMqj7RxWeb84m8vmtLUu2OelFtRFcpVMwGabWHf6J7gM3SZrA1xYMWPviSpwyx1IQFygLmzUwpb2N1adYgTvrS6AA/s1600/P1070849.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_nOdtL5jbyHvgNLf8-N3lIz9ZaxqN3sRp-27X83GjbjPd9kMqj7RxWeb84m8vmtLUu2OelFtRFcpVMwGabWHf6J7gM3SZrA1xYMWPviSpwyx1IQFygLmzUwpb2N1adYgTvrS6AA/s400/P1070849.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD_zrbgfncPrhNB5BQRgolljd3spUM5ELMTJhGc9PcZDwQcJ0ViqtrrNUkR5lAashU6E6pc0V_Sy0hU3gE5f_Rlz0uQSulGhgMeVxTDRMh9hF9SK4FQ5jP8vK3vJ-UXo_2iHeymA/s1600/P1070855.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD_zrbgfncPrhNB5BQRgolljd3spUM5ELMTJhGc9PcZDwQcJ0ViqtrrNUkR5lAashU6E6pc0V_Sy0hU3gE5f_Rlz0uQSulGhgMeVxTDRMh9hF9SK4FQ5jP8vK3vJ-UXo_2iHeymA/s400/P1070855.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj22KnG3u5re-g-hif0HGbS_XJ4oroHq2eVUZWFQEwfZNAvORq6e49l0Eq46VY4PWOMmcqMdquAQdR08mSckvXL6DfOC-KKc3JTt8XZEB27G952niI3rgn-HjZ7RvuQllVwCGpBvw/s1600/P1070868.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj22KnG3u5re-g-hif0HGbS_XJ4oroHq2eVUZWFQEwfZNAvORq6e49l0Eq46VY4PWOMmcqMdquAQdR08mSckvXL6DfOC-KKc3JTt8XZEB27G952niI3rgn-HjZ7RvuQllVwCGpBvw/s640/P1070868.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Villagers from Halji stop for a break</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirihaa73tZmAa4n2UuTaAty14f-KiEdP6vXqrgmd_v_jzl56xUHM2QrXYerz5w15OFmrfZYAOvC1K0ycMku-Pi6nu2TFzoaARk_w3V1zM3pb8sEWSEE1duzsNSA0ZhrX9GZ1qPIw/s1600/P1070870.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirihaa73tZmAa4n2UuTaAty14f-KiEdP6vXqrgmd_v_jzl56xUHM2QrXYerz5w15OFmrfZYAOvC1K0ycMku-Pi6nu2TFzoaARk_w3V1zM3pb8sEWSEE1duzsNSA0ZhrX9GZ1qPIw/s640/P1070870.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK_kl-Iv7jyKmnf7avawsHiSuAq3mtKX8959ueI6lgPywUtUvv-C-c5QM_h3NndKmyUX-zRK0rbac8wPt9yjwXOkenFsFFdCZajXvDNcUi8RBsktSL3__mW52oPgYf8iMtSQ5XCA/s1600/P1070872.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK_kl-Iv7jyKmnf7avawsHiSuAq3mtKX8959ueI6lgPywUtUvv-C-c5QM_h3NndKmyUX-zRK0rbac8wPt9yjwXOkenFsFFdCZajXvDNcUi8RBsktSL3__mW52oPgYf8iMtSQ5XCA/s640/P1070872.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhENAL5DZcjwQvoTuIDs9mlEJjxjVkq9n7bYtHfFJTPRfUDYDMZY4IB1w6LNCRcJXwRkBICNkJo5KvAJAaW0oPDc4CWPIQXWECuP7WRRhPifRMBWiRXE4gh_lBuFqQg9S5Wjl4OCA/s1600/P1070879.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhENAL5DZcjwQvoTuIDs9mlEJjxjVkq9n7bYtHfFJTPRfUDYDMZY4IB1w6LNCRcJXwRkBICNkJo5KvAJAaW0oPDc4CWPIQXWECuP7WRRhPifRMBWiRXE4gh_lBuFqQg9S5Wjl4OCA/s400/P1070879.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Karnali river far below</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">It
became apparent that the previous source of water at our intended camp site had
dried up and it might be necessary to walk a further 2.5 hours to reach another
site, but we were, eventually, fortunate enough to find a small water supply
just ahead of the planned camp, situated on a pass at Chyang Lungma 4161m. Passing
through incredible rock scenery, we reached camp mid afternoon, and revelled in
enormous views, back south west to Humla Karnali Nadi and north east into the
Limi Valley, our objective for the next six days or so. We were also lucky
enough to spot an eagle midway along the path, and a herd of blue sheep
climbing the crags high above our campsite...they're very bold on steep ground!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggaZdJhYQ8vPUDPrY9-_kL0PrmRYMDxvgl4D9pmlu9NI5476p-4uR1iMi-g9djCs7H-TUG8WeM92nnUV0z-pZWHD1XM4mWEs6bfhKnvK6tMQTue_orD4K-xQIciDHLW3cGG-Ebkg/s1600/P1070887.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggaZdJhYQ8vPUDPrY9-_kL0PrmRYMDxvgl4D9pmlu9NI5476p-4uR1iMi-g9djCs7H-TUG8WeM92nnUV0z-pZWHD1XM4mWEs6bfhKnvK6tMQTue_orD4K-xQIciDHLW3cGG-Ebkg/s640/P1070887.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2gp_jWWE1o_zhtnlc0qwAKwGqC-ZUUNvTH8eAsCuMWJpE4u_hwl9frVyy71haKpI8_Qu3ETBp6-K_yFmZjJv6ecw0_9XgJ2qM5rvGN1hq7qTg8FxvvzzILc1thjkrYcjZk5L6OA/s1600/P1070888.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2gp_jWWE1o_zhtnlc0qwAKwGqC-ZUUNvTH8eAsCuMWJpE4u_hwl9frVyy71haKpI8_Qu3ETBp6-K_yFmZjJv6ecw0_9XgJ2qM5rvGN1hq7qTg8FxvvzzILc1thjkrYcjZk5L6OA/s640/P1070888.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The final section of a long day's walking...just up to the pass on the skyline: dig deep!!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7QxwyzUFC8r7J6WJy2GB8VlCpNd1lKz4utdMQGacv9qu4vzZ0QZb1o2J44IbjfPC6Z9a8vcfsYi6NyZf3hovtuYHN9vQEM8e87dg8C-oxNBhTcUQRnfYokkJqgCidWQUv4dJRIw/s1600/P1070891.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7QxwyzUFC8r7J6WJy2GB8VlCpNd1lKz4utdMQGacv9qu4vzZ0QZb1o2J44IbjfPC6Z9a8vcfsYi6NyZf3hovtuYHN9vQEM8e87dg8C-oxNBhTcUQRnfYokkJqgCidWQUv4dJRIw/s640/P1070891.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBFUEaJVzvPXhdaHQ6-zA_7qzKmYk299iMj76t0TC-TVqPqOsACAWz97GmNgqu3sEPUkZvDLRNUMQnlXR_Dc9Qmx1bGZLBuugX-C2btlUqJC6ZjYom6VwygJJ2TApO0SBhtzKNmw/s1600/P1070902_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBFUEaJVzvPXhdaHQ6-zA_7qzKmYk299iMj76t0TC-TVqPqOsACAWz97GmNgqu3sEPUkZvDLRNUMQnlXR_Dc9Qmx1bGZLBuugX-C2btlUqJC6ZjYom6VwygJJ2TApO0SBhtzKNmw/s400/P1070902_2.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camp at Chyang Lungma 4161m</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">What
a day, with some splendidly exposed high level walking in bright sunshine and
news that my first grandchild had arrived safely. Happy days.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Wednesday
13 June</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
night was a difficult one on a sloping tent pitch, but I was not alone in the
team with this. A fine day dawned, albeit with a chilly wind at 4200m. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4M3HYcGH_wutXOOU8kmmZ1L9Lk11QT5yXtjLswZmjUmhjB23NAHHM-pIyXfPoNgvf7ndJcDtXJ-4ElIKS2HMwnujof35G_2ixBZYdHWDDPpPCcQfWQh2VgdyM4spp78ucweWK-g/s1600/P1070905.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4M3HYcGH_wutXOOU8kmmZ1L9Lk11QT5yXtjLswZmjUmhjB23NAHHM-pIyXfPoNgvf7ndJcDtXJ-4ElIKS2HMwnujof35G_2ixBZYdHWDDPpPCcQfWQh2VgdyM4spp78ucweWK-g/s400/P1070905.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View west from the camp</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0do1b6np-xvMuo6nP957wUEZ8kVz45myO6ePal2Mt0uVyX80MU0z-TB7FiScsXZzd5WBkKuaJ8JC5fUr3PzxODtqLYXZ9sFTSvm8kLi-yO8uMk5CtVtGLZF_asO_UUKPaEpAAcw/s1600/P1070911.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0do1b6np-xvMuo6nP957wUEZ8kVz45myO6ePal2Mt0uVyX80MU0z-TB7FiScsXZzd5WBkKuaJ8JC5fUr3PzxODtqLYXZ9sFTSvm8kLi-yO8uMk5CtVtGLZF_asO_UUKPaEpAAcw/s400/P1070911.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More exciting paths ahead!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyDZBXELVkoYQR7294qiFMmMsL_cVccQIzV_dtLXSv8zHfJNzXe1h0wric4ptXF64fzuis3Dv_p9gUq0CseZuQQi9sGX205mGrYr1dVnHnCkDx3n0ByWSZ8vkx2mrBHlrjyIHwAw/s1600/P1070912.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyDZBXELVkoYQR7294qiFMmMsL_cVccQIzV_dtLXSv8zHfJNzXe1h0wric4ptXF64fzuis3Dv_p9gUq0CseZuQQi9sGX205mGrYr1dVnHnCkDx3n0ByWSZ8vkx2mrBHlrjyIHwAw/s640/P1070912.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkY6iYgcaFDpD2PiOK3kRFZi9ZgVCLq6FRkda0yKCk2NwZ0lK9ZMVEhEPwNTbNYSMT7VTOWA6UjOhfeUwpov0hWBx5OFEzEJajlOzOPWsrPYUMn-STYqiR5UPbX8DfJKDxgHPXiw/s1600/P1070916.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkY6iYgcaFDpD2PiOK3kRFZi9ZgVCLq6FRkda0yKCk2NwZ0lK9ZMVEhEPwNTbNYSMT7VTOWA6UjOhfeUwpov0hWBx5OFEzEJajlOzOPWsrPYUMn-STYqiR5UPbX8DfJKDxgHPXiw/s400/P1070916.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
were off promptly at 0730, and headed on to the usual contouring path, again
with precipitous drops along much of its length with breathtaking views down to
the Karnali river far below. We passed a Buddhist meditation cave complex, Ya
Yip Phuk, (apparently used by the famed translator Lotsawa Rinchen Sangpo), which
locals told us had not been occupied for the last 110 years, but we could still
see mantras and murals painted on the cliff walls and the old kitchen and
sleeping quarters. We could also see various ritual objects in the rear of one
of the small chortens here. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg636VT8xSncbcZyPdMBejPvvy9M4hIozyNj0Q2XRIjooeRoxB_xs3uLCYbmBLwZ-zDrY1enKmDFDm1Jbr6FnpD5XT4D1s0ZaeMgihSmu3ixIcm0Rpz5PLiSwny_SYcFdgGhgR2gQ/s1600/P1070918.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg636VT8xSncbcZyPdMBejPvvy9M4hIozyNj0Q2XRIjooeRoxB_xs3uLCYbmBLwZ-zDrY1enKmDFDm1Jbr6FnpD5XT4D1s0ZaeMgihSmu3ixIcm0Rpz5PLiSwny_SYcFdgGhgR2gQ/s400/P1070918.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh_egYZ09tOhNDchpBy1cIj6EuC0qK9mfXT-D0Ct0-5sSuPDnlPeVGJciUv2zQE-wyFL3UCQMZ4hg8W-GyGvfLHNfeEnuVexrxp4XZ8OpBnMf7vOVbNi93N5bpg6NQCv_GTE1t9w/s1600/P1070919.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh_egYZ09tOhNDchpBy1cIj6EuC0qK9mfXT-D0Ct0-5sSuPDnlPeVGJciUv2zQE-wyFL3UCQMZ4hg8W-GyGvfLHNfeEnuVexrxp4XZ8OpBnMf7vOVbNi93N5bpg6NQCv_GTE1t9w/s400/P1070919.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnUyLM0bWa4U66iWyolgQBaORf10jrLp37j3vht3I7JIHLQUlzdiyklG-2re66INIv9Rrq2F_Yd0HPEmE_9SKwZOIoxwC5tSnKw54zB6yBU3UHrAQNnoI8PgBjfi_SQvWQ375sJg/s1600/P1070921.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnUyLM0bWa4U66iWyolgQBaORf10jrLp37j3vht3I7JIHLQUlzdiyklG-2re66INIv9Rrq2F_Yd0HPEmE_9SKwZOIoxwC5tSnKw54zB6yBU3UHrAQNnoI8PgBjfi_SQvWQ375sJg/s400/P1070921.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlZirwhydfcUmce0R3p-799xbjXVTt81qheIa9dfm0zy1ONyXMx9wDczvG2VeOLSI28x2wbLNMaw-nxfBB5UyetHypyOwqA1sQB9THHbS75SiD_qnLXryfw5E8MkbUArK9gflA2w/s1600/P1070924.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlZirwhydfcUmce0R3p-799xbjXVTt81qheIa9dfm0zy1ONyXMx9wDczvG2VeOLSI28x2wbLNMaw-nxfBB5UyetHypyOwqA1sQB9THHbS75SiD_qnLXryfw5E8MkbUArK9gflA2w/s400/P1070924.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ya Yip Phuk, a meditation cave complex dating back over a thousand years</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Eventually,
the path seemed to fizzle out, but one had to look upwards to see where it was
heading, and 200m later, up a steep zig zag path, we reached a small pass,
Lamka Lagna at 4300m, offering a full view of the Limi valley ahead, surrounded
on both sides by castellated summits, and the junction with the Karnali far
below where it turned southwards into the valleys that take it down through
Simikot. A great spot.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3sAqk-JIUAHAYlMqv2WmB7CGfed_mGx8QA4kpfWa6ir3_bk2QrokcKAYrKRLZzLR9ObGq3ZT_yjae14YyWte2jMw2MEdi7C3CeF3CflC-0N7NWpEjrnpHM0WtnQ9EAK9kARhfTQ/s1600/P1070925.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3sAqk-JIUAHAYlMqv2WmB7CGfed_mGx8QA4kpfWa6ir3_bk2QrokcKAYrKRLZzLR9ObGq3ZT_yjae14YyWte2jMw2MEdi7C3CeF3CflC-0N7NWpEjrnpHM0WtnQ9EAK9kARhfTQ/s640/P1070925.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The climb to Lamka Lagna at 4300m</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLQcXUtYdxg3BeRo_roOfVxbEnyBwWKtYL2baCY2H4Nv-G1pmfOrrzSI4Iv7g_2qg-FBwFQjIJKXLj9NzhV5sYtr5KnHJHGPKa5HTfb0fdXMXsjyXZu5xyw8vP5MNoZ27_l0riLA/s1600/P1070928_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLQcXUtYdxg3BeRo_roOfVxbEnyBwWKtYL2baCY2H4Nv-G1pmfOrrzSI4Iv7g_2qg-FBwFQjIJKXLj9NzhV5sYtr5KnHJHGPKa5HTfb0fdXMXsjyXZu5xyw8vP5MNoZ27_l0riLA/s640/P1070928_2.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDL_PbKStBMLN_8uHEVXHMr8f_OtpOY6cy4u_3uqMoOZ55OQnn0ieS7pc7ireU2XSERIKMBvp-RwYvbIZn2L6l0SWLkB9iOgN5DGOAxADXaF703Brt00dgX926E8Rtraa0EPgZow/s1600/P1070932.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDL_PbKStBMLN_8uHEVXHMr8f_OtpOY6cy4u_3uqMoOZ55OQnn0ieS7pc7ireU2XSERIKMBvp-RwYvbIZn2L6l0SWLkB9iOgN5DGOAxADXaF703Brt00dgX926E8Rtraa0EPgZow/s400/P1070932.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First view of the Limi valley, from Lamka Lagna at 4300m</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuj2H-1sjLPm4MVQAtUr7UvocAobT_3EwT2ktfBtwdnpplq5CYxO6kITzk37kgWXPHROKQEkBR7gBABm1hs7zcdVShs68m1czOFJYx3Bk6hdoR1mmNlRP6AqCLlO4an_WpIe3wUQ/s1600/P1070939.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuj2H-1sjLPm4MVQAtUr7UvocAobT_3EwT2ktfBtwdnpplq5CYxO6kITzk37kgWXPHROKQEkBR7gBABm1hs7zcdVShs68m1czOFJYx3Bk6hdoR1mmNlRP6AqCLlO4an_WpIe3wUQ/s640/P1070939.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A good spot for a cup of lemon tea!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHmg7ABW5toGXFKmx2Q-dgTg_oHIOzi_ww5ZYB2PAZvZ542LZ7vnTvuquSNnpAN3HwLeBWygxGXGDTuHzeM0DozzZuMaRw404opuk1NUzZh7UvnvF_TTTF4uv50OL4dTMqwPFBeA/s1600/P1070950.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHmg7ABW5toGXFKmx2Q-dgTg_oHIOzi_ww5ZYB2PAZvZ542LZ7vnTvuquSNnpAN3HwLeBWygxGXGDTuHzeM0DozzZuMaRw404opuk1NUzZh7UvnvF_TTTF4uv50OL4dTMqwPFBeA/s400/P1070950.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0NDuw_7i0ZVnPMI1byps0aXdsPpummYmPOed5SD3opw4c10E9IDSONJ8BV2Wj8POm_5KZmFRortg2wWCQT6w3W_vde8mx5G653NAUqJVYUuP8__7nbuZwBelTtTe15QBeUnizMw/s1600/P1070951.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0NDuw_7i0ZVnPMI1byps0aXdsPpummYmPOed5SD3opw4c10E9IDSONJ8BV2Wj8POm_5KZmFRortg2wWCQT6w3W_vde8mx5G653NAUqJVYUuP8__7nbuZwBelTtTe15QBeUnizMw/s400/P1070951.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXoHLJ2Q1dPb78uZCv-8YNKFe4rlPWEBSJg5-J6bnAihYqS8IQgvnTQlvsO7iqApHko-7D6E4Mln0P5Xy13fndT4NxbeT8rnFJ-kyQ2zbNfMmgvdQV6uUITEuiZdqjf1zlYgeS3A/s1600/P1070960.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXoHLJ2Q1dPb78uZCv-8YNKFe4rlPWEBSJg5-J6bnAihYqS8IQgvnTQlvsO7iqApHko-7D6E4Mln0P5Xy13fndT4NxbeT8rnFJ-kyQ2zbNfMmgvdQV6uUITEuiZdqjf1zlYgeS3A/s640/P1070960.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Starting the descent into the Limi valley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6Y-sEbLLI8iUfeb3LLZQ-XCkhqBI8gAB5jBhAXtP0ILz8q_ub296v1A7HiDlJEM4lVq9CZcIaaCvlyqXKcLYUQHdmY-4Sg_g76S0l8UI37NGs1CYObRB1yk8ceaUgAndS84Azig/s1600/P1070961.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6Y-sEbLLI8iUfeb3LLZQ-XCkhqBI8gAB5jBhAXtP0ILz8q_ub296v1A7HiDlJEM4lVq9CZcIaaCvlyqXKcLYUQHdmY-4Sg_g76S0l8UI37NGs1CYObRB1yk8ceaUgAndS84Azig/s400/P1070961.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snow leopard country</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Onwards.
A fine high level traverse continued above the Limi Valley and we eventually
turned into the valley containing the Syogang Khola and the village of Til,
with hillside monastery and retreat houses above. Beautiful views of the barley
fields on the many terraces, some being newly planted, and at the valley head
the snow capped peaks of the Nalakanka Himal and the summit snows of the mighty
Gurla Mandata, the former forming the border with Tibet at around 5000m+, and
the fine peak of Nala at 6422m standing proud. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdo0D4O5B7DjJ4Watc_t1RvV3qu53ScqFlyULaHMiMzeqoUXyeT4knfrNPb5FwX9YSVeByhczDoF_8x0pPVHXYS2me5FMsy0ai9I9kbqGA7UiA6gAsaKofpT0zD8PNaPQpPvJkVg/s1600/P1070964.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdo0D4O5B7DjJ4Watc_t1RvV3qu53ScqFlyULaHMiMzeqoUXyeT4knfrNPb5FwX9YSVeByhczDoF_8x0pPVHXYS2me5FMsy0ai9I9kbqGA7UiA6gAsaKofpT0zD8PNaPQpPvJkVg/s400/P1070964.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Limi river, on the approach to Til</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHJgDGeS2dRNTvK5Hsni6kGRAzFekz-A9WIvShUqy4QkwH0gPPMBZQe1heyi6EwCO9Bxooyh6Tnyscwc0KjCjBeZKfAp89dlZVzri-PIKpDhf2yHWL6rov6EYBaABQaUEvB6Oscg/s1600/P1070975.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHJgDGeS2dRNTvK5Hsni6kGRAzFekz-A9WIvShUqy4QkwH0gPPMBZQe1heyi6EwCO9Bxooyh6Tnyscwc0KjCjBeZKfAp89dlZVzri-PIKpDhf2yHWL6rov6EYBaABQaUEvB6Oscg/s400/P1070975.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entering the Syogang Khola valley, en route to Til</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkY_g0mMZvrwiEIhJqmFjtfVhquQeYdmjI4knmQnZAIZn3YSdUPoUKJELsYl3f4twSY5LmTODFKo6hQwNoQjV8YdGQrNmWYVVFibEj25_NnBS8u4xU4lE8WV2KbOb0ezUvEMR1Iw/s1600/P1070976.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkY_g0mMZvrwiEIhJqmFjtfVhquQeYdmjI4knmQnZAIZn3YSdUPoUKJELsYl3f4twSY5LmTODFKo6hQwNoQjV8YdGQrNmWYVVFibEj25_NnBS8u4xU4lE8WV2KbOb0ezUvEMR1Iw/s640/P1070976.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The gompa at Til</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLYC3Vj3FRWCy-zfDGXwnHnBLaV4bodGPL_eKkm4MGFqw14CQcqoCrLUN7c0CRmUoCzcWSD7J58QS840vnuKem0oIYpiEHH50Wwmi_IC790GLZYEdD8GQWKqvPiTRGrbgObGUt7w/s1600/P1070981.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLYC3Vj3FRWCy-zfDGXwnHnBLaV4bodGPL_eKkm4MGFqw14CQcqoCrLUN7c0CRmUoCzcWSD7J58QS840vnuKem0oIYpiEHH50Wwmi_IC790GLZYEdD8GQWKqvPiTRGrbgObGUt7w/s400/P1070981.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Til</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Lunch,
then an easy descent down through the terraces on to a good path which brought
us efficiently to the Limi Khola at Tiljung 3577m. Then a bonus...a small herd
of blue sheep, known locally as naur, grazing on the slopes above us, the male
keeping a beady eye on us as we passed. We're also now firmly in snow leopard country...we
are highly unlikely to see one, but it's an eery feeling that at some point one
will be watching you pass (our guide Kaji saw one near Manang, above the north
east section of the Annapurna Circuit, in 1999. It was eyeing up a walker out
in front but then spooked when the rest of the group appeared on the trail
behind him!). </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib8zFQtilYWwPKQwW_XdgnwupJMNiPdcItXco0_gcFILSlcLzC6U6GoSgFYzST3_re9C_GhiWKfLcV8YuNBT6IpnquYX_yULkHwjIgmUQPbw6ClyTuZdTv4LtJNGiqW3gYh_r5rg/s1600/P1070983.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib8zFQtilYWwPKQwW_XdgnwupJMNiPdcItXco0_gcFILSlcLzC6U6GoSgFYzST3_re9C_GhiWKfLcV8YuNBT6IpnquYX_yULkHwjIgmUQPbw6ClyTuZdTv4LtJNGiqW3gYh_r5rg/s400/P1070983.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A peek into Tibet...the snow dome in the centre is Gurla Mandata</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOWAB-h8egiMxGREE9h3MHosaVAdso7TJr2XckLYvOAFrh5-9uFD8FU0TEwmchTWhjqcaYBzp6VvhEDodh5uOnHYInSgNhyVIpw-vFhfgk4mLVUJ_2Iyb9YhgmzfXb9Fzhafc1DQ/s1600/P1070986.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOWAB-h8egiMxGREE9h3MHosaVAdso7TJr2XckLYvOAFrh5-9uFD8FU0TEwmchTWhjqcaYBzp6VvhEDodh5uOnHYInSgNhyVIpw-vFhfgk4mLVUJ_2Iyb9YhgmzfXb9Fzhafc1DQ/s400/P1070986.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Descent to Tiljung</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-mzLfUp2QnTlMLRjvZ85NUWP4xCdKB7oWtTFgJBscquSSWHHbwYlSMUq1TtvVBztGQMrQHDl8D3xytjQ7uNfOQezpICNHyYC1BdAUJIyQpMDR2jC9UE-4dPPqReOSf3gifKteeQ/s1600/P1070990.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-mzLfUp2QnTlMLRjvZ85NUWP4xCdKB7oWtTFgJBscquSSWHHbwYlSMUq1TtvVBztGQMrQHDl8D3xytjQ7uNfOQezpICNHyYC1BdAUJIyQpMDR2jC9UE-4dPPqReOSf3gifKteeQ/s400/P1070990.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blue sheep ('naur')</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVyuN7DBLiFRA9cYd1Axjok0Y72QXVuyjG1710_A4sDXWI8wcOP-Y5w5rybiQx9VVqYrPVBLcNXEH5Yu7BkBHfCDcab0aZRGVxJPbzAIeRnoI2H5NNpjOlBs31m8jeywZeKVmmVQ/s1600/P1070995.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVyuN7DBLiFRA9cYd1Axjok0Y72QXVuyjG1710_A4sDXWI8wcOP-Y5w5rybiQx9VVqYrPVBLcNXEH5Yu7BkBHfCDcab0aZRGVxJPbzAIeRnoI2H5NNpjOlBs31m8jeywZeKVmmVQ/s400/P1070995.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tiljung</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
final hour or so was an easy walk along the banks of the Limi Khola, on mainly
sandy soil, with breathtaking sandstone cliffs towering above us, one notable
for its huge calcite intrusions, one I named 'Devils Graffiti.' Two bridge
crossings and we finally reached camp just below the village of Halji 3741m, on
a windy bluff above the river. It's very windy and dusty as I write this. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm3JwWpKppZYMejdtbB41ePRfOp5ROA-ILja4sOc_Mr5MseaPrNVurQJc2g7aZq5MjE0hxN3em1wxadwDF6_gm1jt_6ok0teYQoeC3GqPlj7sLjCvGKQji7wZyYD1zd8x4lpD-Tw/s1600/P1080001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm3JwWpKppZYMejdtbB41ePRfOp5ROA-ILja4sOc_Mr5MseaPrNVurQJc2g7aZq5MjE0hxN3em1wxadwDF6_gm1jt_6ok0teYQoeC3GqPlj7sLjCvGKQji7wZyYD1zd8x4lpD-Tw/s640/P1080001.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Following the Limi Khola</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp847oz5GsAT5Imp20ZXCy3MVMXuK5-KtRgoJGIoliMxzUsUvwvfKiOTSfHGoZj3PuToJuELrJT7sOXCuJcFVonNLmRzwmpLjUzZbq6dmAYSBQ_zew0f6Mz1DVLlbygFtzD-Zjpg/s1600/P1080005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp847oz5GsAT5Imp20ZXCy3MVMXuK5-KtRgoJGIoliMxzUsUvwvfKiOTSfHGoZj3PuToJuELrJT7sOXCuJcFVonNLmRzwmpLjUzZbq6dmAYSBQ_zew0f6Mz1DVLlbygFtzD-Zjpg/s640/P1080005.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'Devil's Graffiti'!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDcxASVDW8I_M0ERzk7PejEL47yLJLL5a2V8pgXXjzNyBGRo8vMn8rzbwhTVwXhyphenhyphenKbhRJP6sbp0GG1EuHOyEwODhxq21geeynCVTEpjadVcA9AH2e-oAAGprwRhxCRhRIVbR0hJA/s1600/P1080012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDcxASVDW8I_M0ERzk7PejEL47yLJLL5a2V8pgXXjzNyBGRo8vMn8rzbwhTVwXhyphenhyphenKbhRJP6sbp0GG1EuHOyEwODhxq21geeynCVTEpjadVcA9AH2e-oAAGprwRhxCRhRIVbR0hJA/s400/P1080012.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Limi Khola below Halji</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFRj4b53CriXciq0ysYYGSC4XKyYTbaJO2Ton5a7tGy1tumQ2jsvoTATa5JN2swP2M5L54-dfYyiIsGtJbjTDSIBqZNu6G9AEiywXWO2ynHmRnF810Nykcc8i7Q_HYKcQNGTT55w/s1600/P1080014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFRj4b53CriXciq0ysYYGSC4XKyYTbaJO2Ton5a7tGy1tumQ2jsvoTATa5JN2swP2M5L54-dfYyiIsGtJbjTDSIBqZNu6G9AEiywXWO2ynHmRnF810Nykcc8i7Q_HYKcQNGTT55w/s640/P1080014.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfAqJ6ZFNCvAe9Xz1y2CpHO3IXprpIhDZVYHOlhPyeFtUBDMwwjQW985JiAcHIs4zVcQkhDEO3sGLfTyD7UPZQ_3oKB7Bsofy_5tGl83sMgaJ8ln_I5feAosnlWGsVaTi3YNmcSA/s1600/P1080028.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfAqJ6ZFNCvAe9Xz1y2CpHO3IXprpIhDZVYHOlhPyeFtUBDMwwjQW985JiAcHIs4zVcQkhDEO3sGLfTyD7UPZQ_3oKB7Bsofy_5tGl83sMgaJ8ln_I5feAosnlWGsVaTi3YNmcSA/s400/P1080028.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camp at Halji</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Thursday
14 June</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
disturbed night, sleeping with the sound of the Limi Khola beside the campsite,
rather like trying to sleep without ear plugs on a 737.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">But
another beautiful day dawned, some clouds hugging the mountains on both sides
of the valley. Our first port of call was the nearby village of Halji, and on
our approach receiving the most friendly welcome from the villagers and, in
particular, the local kids on their way to school, all massing around digital
camera screens to see images of themselves.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiePYv9soS7CSjS5gWjCAhShB_2jrBkvce15mbBoWzFVONGPMX9Aq9Tv5xN_HKELWoq2F77BEFZHydQhaJeSbbOlxegnVwzvwlNPMcP58zaKxyi9ZgchMGntsK2QKhUM2fZikxn6A/s1600/P1080030.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiePYv9soS7CSjS5gWjCAhShB_2jrBkvce15mbBoWzFVONGPMX9Aq9Tv5xN_HKELWoq2F77BEFZHydQhaJeSbbOlxegnVwzvwlNPMcP58zaKxyi9ZgchMGntsK2QKhUM2fZikxn6A/s400/P1080030.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View south from Halji</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNcGUJtIe09EtGFzTYlMPc_KHGvKdCVWqu8bJWbfU23UTwALdbr__wm_ii661nXEICpEQRjvfG317-GKTawwc81j2VMmjo8HbseoR53ZbTo6d00WZjLLTth__dXrWjvCxxgAO3SQ/s1600/P1080032.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNcGUJtIe09EtGFzTYlMPc_KHGvKdCVWqu8bJWbfU23UTwALdbr__wm_ii661nXEICpEQRjvfG317-GKTawwc81j2VMmjo8HbseoR53ZbTo6d00WZjLLTth__dXrWjvCxxgAO3SQ/s400/P1080032.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Halji</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyE06DMg1fNSL3I9zDsF__qEgwFBcw-TsiEfNiurb4P5nKGlU1-BzWQVA2asfjrHDD2IhwoWW0PfgANWRz8Ihj1Npk1L1hVxxOt8SOobIrbXxSXVGO60-hvhRRz5AwTWqn6xx-rQ/s1600/P1080035.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyE06DMg1fNSL3I9zDsF__qEgwFBcw-TsiEfNiurb4P5nKGlU1-BzWQVA2asfjrHDD2IhwoWW0PfgANWRz8Ihj1Npk1L1hVxxOt8SOobIrbXxSXVGO60-hvhRRz5AwTWqn6xx-rQ/s400/P1080035.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ65xFXx4ZiXSqAAmyGIZazW81jcJcdqj2YIvt12GsfqpuIF5s9JRrRsccPvpMxSoY0OcbGtEgLBx28pK-SJhwttxugR8q8TiohLjJsA0m4XNUIT0Rr7UQEzrJcvD3U4_mKHYK-A/s1600/P1080036.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ65xFXx4ZiXSqAAmyGIZazW81jcJcdqj2YIvt12GsfqpuIF5s9JRrRsccPvpMxSoY0OcbGtEgLBx28pK-SJhwttxugR8q8TiohLjJsA0m4XNUIT0Rr7UQEzrJcvD3U4_mKHYK-A/s400/P1080036.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A warm welcome at Halji</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQjdzG1yiQKgft_Kw_MGg9UE8mXUBMP8QaR4DY1WhR2TJ7ysrf2mCKTqdvny2nRI2HKtzKI_r7cs07hCsWw5OZqslA0q07wmiHpJApLcQWqssBOznX3uxcyDikbbVJahYmCjfrTA/s1600/P1080040.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQjdzG1yiQKgft_Kw_MGg9UE8mXUBMP8QaR4DY1WhR2TJ7ysrf2mCKTqdvny2nRI2HKtzKI_r7cs07hCsWw5OZqslA0q07wmiHpJApLcQWqssBOznX3uxcyDikbbVJahYmCjfrTA/s400/P1080040.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc0tNjKas5yaDyih3OBsVO5-bsCnSZ_Q_W4C9wt5ItDRVNOoTCMrHNyTkIipa1bHsXFYCX7ELz9DYbrry7X1eQcIABVx2xPD69PnrhgS6jeZLsOn565RqegWaqkRhZRJg9OMohLA/s1600/P1080043.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc0tNjKas5yaDyih3OBsVO5-bsCnSZ_Q_W4C9wt5ItDRVNOoTCMrHNyTkIipa1bHsXFYCX7ELz9DYbrry7X1eQcIABVx2xPD69PnrhgS6jeZLsOn565RqegWaqkRhZRJg9OMohLA/s640/P1080043.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mani wall on approach to Halji</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimOpu4u8cf6UsX6epmQWMGIlmIeliVqbWH2R4mFxN85rmUVpX4XpY6pjd0QisnzOjKkRICHt2McojQJzly-yU1KNIqBzPhWhMyhaH0LcAB04n7U5BYeirIrLyQp4DoTL03ehkvDw/s1600/P1080045.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimOpu4u8cf6UsX6epmQWMGIlmIeliVqbWH2R4mFxN85rmUVpX4XpY6pjd0QisnzOjKkRICHt2McojQJzly-yU1KNIqBzPhWhMyhaH0LcAB04n7U5BYeirIrLyQp4DoTL03ehkvDw/s400/P1080045.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
14th century monastery, Rincheling Gompa, in Halji is the second oldest in
Nepal, and we were lucky enough to witness the start of a puja to mark the
anniversary of the passing of the lama who had established the gompa over a
thousand years ago, Lotsawa Rinchen Sangpo (985-1055 CE), a noted translator of
Buddhist texts and accorded with the 'second wave' of Buddhist transmission in
Tibet. Rincheling Gompa is associated with the Dripung Kagyu sect of Tibetan
Buddhism, and is the main gompa of the Limi valley, restored with help from
Nepal Trust.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
giant thangka featuring an image of </span><span style="font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Kyobpa Jigten Sumgön (1143-1217), the founder of the Drikung Kagyu sub-order</span></span> was suspended over
the courtyard in front of the main temple hall, and the monks were chanting
away, interspersed with horns, cymbals and bells in the uniquely Tibetan
fashion. Local people, all dressed in traditional Tibetan clothes, randomly
appeared at the courtyard entrance, prostrated themselves in front of the large
thangka, and presented their offering to the presiding monk...sometimes a small
bowl of ground barley flour, others water, others butter. We were made very
welcome, and shown the main and peripheral temple halls as well as 'inner
sanctum' with multiple statutes of the Buddha with varying mudra positions. A
wonderful, atmospheric experience for all of us, and we each presented a kata
(a white silk scarf) in respect to the deceased Rinpoche. To cap it all, two
large griffin vultures soared high above the sun drenched cliffs to the west of
the gompa.<br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ3fKU59UPKbj6nYmp9TDsB0HzEv03_vDBS30o7TdXafp1qTnpRYRaRONENip7Dn81nJCNEiBS8OP7-evanUm2UJe7zXIOQblP6LzulEZIjT7MtwKdzE2Ce9kB040LCXncNKtR-Q/s1600/P1080047.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ3fKU59UPKbj6nYmp9TDsB0HzEv03_vDBS30o7TdXafp1qTnpRYRaRONENip7Dn81nJCNEiBS8OP7-evanUm2UJe7zXIOQblP6LzulEZIjT7MtwKdzE2Ce9kB040LCXncNKtR-Q/s640/P1080047.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rincheling Gompa, Halji</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhdBdMw7TX1OjvpmOA5NpOluKcvBGq9kCyFnQBQBz2J_8ADVStw0EB_cyJg_QwsFgmmaEZpf9llUFE41nHGDYNjUE19FH_br4j_cq6_xcbkCQxWHXT5j8jfWoXGWms8y8ouIzkqg/s1600/P1080048.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhdBdMw7TX1OjvpmOA5NpOluKcvBGq9kCyFnQBQBz2J_8ADVStw0EB_cyJg_QwsFgmmaEZpf9llUFE41nHGDYNjUE19FH_br4j_cq6_xcbkCQxWHXT5j8jfWoXGWms8y8ouIzkqg/s400/P1080048.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQCYV1mAPVhUvuEC74v_iUru8wnxetEmDhCkuficoarDhHqcQ5mpb13mpecz0EKl_MWP5FXUj2bZrlmGzmtvbKrLKCnCKRVq26Tb-PuPdV2Xa_jcKY8_K6GUq3YpRoBfFjIVGBiQ/s1600/P1080049.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQCYV1mAPVhUvuEC74v_iUru8wnxetEmDhCkuficoarDhHqcQ5mpb13mpecz0EKl_MWP5FXUj2bZrlmGzmtvbKrLKCnCKRVq26Tb-PuPdV2Xa_jcKY8_K6GUq3YpRoBfFjIVGBiQ/s640/P1080049.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boy monks receiving butter tea</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgilgmY5O5CLybVC0wYwvBfaHcESmszSt46kJKoi1BLKd8rRUrgODWr0kTnFZT6FVimFOpVeppoCpyHBp7PCok8wWdTEtJLrGOb5xn9kt0SxcuYwqZdX86yrGA8jGGAGTXXlutwxg/s1600/P1080054_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgilgmY5O5CLybVC0wYwvBfaHcESmszSt46kJKoi1BLKd8rRUrgODWr0kTnFZT6FVimFOpVeppoCpyHBp7PCok8wWdTEtJLrGOb5xn9kt0SxcuYwqZdX86yrGA8jGGAGTXXlutwxg/s640/P1080054_2.jpg" height="544" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Local woman prostrating in respect to the ancient lama, Lotsawa Rinchen Sangpo</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNZUU7khyphenhyphenyZwlkjdKbBulxa4ZMgPEImRY61ffvgs2Ff1FqdgG6i8Ud2bpRSNVXRDj6FqnyyvjMyvs36g0HWwdsWdXGLo_DR5hx9aRGb61Bwz2xrkrdrx1jpsR0_vQ2V87UJpZZGA/s1600/P1080058_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNZUU7khyphenhyphenyZwlkjdKbBulxa4ZMgPEImRY61ffvgs2Ff1FqdgG6i8Ud2bpRSNVXRDj6FqnyyvjMyvs36g0HWwdsWdXGLo_DR5hx9aRGb61Bwz2xrkrdrx1jpsR0_vQ2V87UJpZZGA/s400/P1080058_2.jpg" height="400" width="376" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Locals making small offerings as part of the puja</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHLls3kilpw2iTh8IVBKL_QWpt4VQbd_ewF2RX6xMiRNvDbmwECJMX0Zuqa_5DOaLOhWiUJSD4eZP6vSgsnxbW7LLxG8d8Fch9_uWKstJ_q2Mz3OA134xQ9gVqrLKqCaApHemlpg/s1600/P1080066.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHLls3kilpw2iTh8IVBKL_QWpt4VQbd_ewF2RX6xMiRNvDbmwECJMX0Zuqa_5DOaLOhWiUJSD4eZP6vSgsnxbW7LLxG8d8Fch9_uWKstJ_q2Mz3OA134xQ9gVqrLKqCaApHemlpg/s400/P1080066.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoAw-V0owYfGnRFz-a8UIZfeCqWBvEcXtawZe5QQN6QBwNGZOM4iDqQzWk8e3JVkvBgX1XF-3R-3TeGhF9vcINDsEdjTcuzGOSqdFje4gzQYy2E2xVX60NXc0P7Ptql_rOtsEK6g/s1600/P1080071.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoAw-V0owYfGnRFz-a8UIZfeCqWBvEcXtawZe5QQN6QBwNGZOM4iDqQzWk8e3JVkvBgX1XF-3R-3TeGhF9vcINDsEdjTcuzGOSqdFje4gzQYy2E2xVX60NXc0P7Ptql_rOtsEK6g/s640/P1080071.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Halji</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
great start to the day, and after a quick kora around this ancient walled town,
we ascended on to the main path towards Dzang (Jang), a path that occasionally
ran close to the fast flowing Limi Khola and then climbed steeply to cross
numerous interlocking spurs on the north bank. We covered a good distance in
increasing temperatures, with the sandstone cliffs soaring above us. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK5beH9knintMI0PzXphzpMYGKyFmGI2kF73rVS-iiL4qPqV_yysK21bh7bdMFR6iWiQNCC2lLlHlJJ9paV5Y7_9rX1HkcpJhAJMStTBUbPKyuf_lhrr2t7ZYZis9BV1HBZNRcIg/s1600/P1080076.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK5beH9knintMI0PzXphzpMYGKyFmGI2kF73rVS-iiL4qPqV_yysK21bh7bdMFR6iWiQNCC2lLlHlJJ9paV5Y7_9rX1HkcpJhAJMStTBUbPKyuf_lhrr2t7ZYZis9BV1HBZNRcIg/s400/P1080076.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Terraces below Halji, sometimes subject to flash flooding</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF_ieiZNUvcJHhzKA64ghl2YNOgUjJqTrFizVpWC1lo2OIvIzHU2qlySilN5oXM5aKTssT3m8huzRxe5xcfVxrYnba9eAW5oSW63qqbOvQk3a-SwWD3F5oOREpNjr_CIPCxLlp6w/s1600/P1080087.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF_ieiZNUvcJHhzKA64ghl2YNOgUjJqTrFizVpWC1lo2OIvIzHU2qlySilN5oXM5aKTssT3m8huzRxe5xcfVxrYnba9eAW5oSW63qqbOvQk3a-SwWD3F5oOREpNjr_CIPCxLlp6w/s640/P1080087.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking back along the path from Halji to Jang</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Eventually
we passed through another control post manned by three or four police officers
at Sunkarni. It was here that we established that only 60 trekkers passed
through the Limi Valley in 2011 and thus far, only 9 trekkers (this including
our group of six!) had passed this way this year. Nice to be part of such an
exclusive fraternity.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Onwards,
we soon reached the outskirts of Jang, had a quick lunch by the entrance gompa
in hot sunshine, before exploring the small town itself. At the fourteenth
century gompa, another puja was underway, this time with monks and the village
elders joined together in the ceremony. Old men in cowboy hats at the lower
level swivelling their prayer wheels and the women of the village on a balcony
above singing a hymn of homage to the deceased lama. Very atmospheric, although
we left early as it felt like a very private village affair. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG-EXMmzP3zbtcM4MAXvHubA2zoOMSdqvrsKCGwA-2BdZgeSjznnEpUwMCMIjC2LgXIVMRpn-Mj1Y4RCgwYcYHNWQ0uVy5kaCDYOLTafOAkiGwvhsAJSgTqMfCDv_K-bY37yuudA/s1600/P1080091.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG-EXMmzP3zbtcM4MAXvHubA2zoOMSdqvrsKCGwA-2BdZgeSjznnEpUwMCMIjC2LgXIVMRpn-Mj1Y4RCgwYcYHNWQ0uVy5kaCDYOLTafOAkiGwvhsAJSgTqMfCDv_K-bY37yuudA/s400/P1080091.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approaching Jang</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-kLfAFA8Kx_2FYHAsnYP5q8rTVqaI19pcnLMXsAa2sJFxQTkkJKxlD86o1FefzZsOWagSMJ_e4hmM76lGAQy-BnJB8Rl78ipZ7xF1j3bvlt4LbG6kpfQBhkQY_QGH6amTOmtwNQ/s1600/P1080095.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-kLfAFA8Kx_2FYHAsnYP5q8rTVqaI19pcnLMXsAa2sJFxQTkkJKxlD86o1FefzZsOWagSMJ_e4hmM76lGAQy-BnJB8Rl78ipZ7xF1j3bvlt4LbG6kpfQBhkQY_QGH6amTOmtwNQ/s400/P1080095.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxshz_421XwHMHksmL3pD8yTKXfv8_lhyUwKNArvCsgCIoZ6uzNR0U2xU1jnJmHKbBfY04cxz9luGX1V1N7bMp50AHn2Mgafu-DDKQfrvy9jm9TGECTN8jpKgzpq-1vqODsZyKXw/s1600/P1080096.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxshz_421XwHMHksmL3pD8yTKXfv8_lhyUwKNArvCsgCIoZ6uzNR0U2xU1jnJmHKbBfY04cxz9luGX1V1N7bMp50AHn2Mgafu-DDKQfrvy9jm9TGECTN8jpKgzpq-1vqODsZyKXw/s400/P1080096.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jang</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf0ZKgRDrJLibMm1oy66idRZUn1UVdchGDC4B9WP35B70RMVUNNSbPuepRTtaLeCsJDs3bN7VHjxsl6byJkGjd4oBqu2O-ocsA0eDspAkvGjYeb_dODuTD7DPgWRYYd7V4dwilTQ/s1600/P1080100.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf0ZKgRDrJLibMm1oy66idRZUn1UVdchGDC4B9WP35B70RMVUNNSbPuepRTtaLeCsJDs3bN7VHjxsl6byJkGjd4oBqu2O-ocsA0eDspAkvGjYeb_dODuTD7DPgWRYYd7V4dwilTQ/s400/P1080100.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gompa at Jang</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIPb20s4zTxfbWCU64UU3QACY9pRy4DJU3cW8Rjnn_MuoXM1MIxw2GSASBpLXzi53fhuSPI8uGnJoCZm9oMrpQcL4rHnE4gCcJFEfAwgl7gkzWmEzjy6J_4_dNyKVLtkSBix5jPw/s1600/P1080106.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIPb20s4zTxfbWCU64UU3QACY9pRy4DJU3cW8Rjnn_MuoXM1MIxw2GSASBpLXzi53fhuSPI8uGnJoCZm9oMrpQcL4rHnE4gCcJFEfAwgl7gkzWmEzjy6J_4_dNyKVLtkSBix5jPw/s400/P1080106.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yak man</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuqS4V1XSoWOM0wCSzRNiZMdubB1FooDpzKM8Udij8YUAMT_ghfXdW9CA8A01q8qk_hRWzjGkTPMSAd4i3kKN4I6OoGZqhb2vJjrxhyNBj9epVeA5lQxa_im34dZiMuWogTw_Y0A/s1600/P1080107.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuqS4V1XSoWOM0wCSzRNiZMdubB1FooDpzKM8Udij8YUAMT_ghfXdW9CA8A01q8qk_hRWzjGkTPMSAd4i3kKN4I6OoGZqhb2vJjrxhyNBj9epVeA5lQxa_im34dZiMuWogTw_Y0A/s400/P1080107.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Village elder displays traditional footwear!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_NRSd_07-nAQuG9kt_k94fFQw0waXlZugqy-1_gmaLwnHc_ELcKEcbGTc2O5dfiqmJQDzaUw6MA1CC6qcg-12OBmJVLvh9-reXGG83J3WlT48ftdiEhSHw9uxm4iSK8CDhKN57Q/s1600/P1080115.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_NRSd_07-nAQuG9kt_k94fFQw0waXlZugqy-1_gmaLwnHc_ELcKEcbGTc2O5dfiqmJQDzaUw6MA1CC6qcg-12OBmJVLvh9-reXGG83J3WlT48ftdiEhSHw9uxm4iSK8CDhKN57Q/s400/P1080115.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jang</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVWl1_FGal2owbfgdUh4sltYnNiuG6S8lFa4GZkFVc0zeJOqOEHzRo_AOkYBu12YY9OEFJpuCO2zzVKhoyxzesHIhvulB6jEYpftiejTPHM2zlX0eGtpifV9YtKjePeSxDg2LWyA/s1600/P1080119.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVWl1_FGal2owbfgdUh4sltYnNiuG6S8lFa4GZkFVc0zeJOqOEHzRo_AOkYBu12YY9OEFJpuCO2zzVKhoyxzesHIhvulB6jEYpftiejTPHM2zlX0eGtpifV9YtKjePeSxDg2LWyA/s640/P1080119.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirNkrwwm8M2_Bz93U_5AhJ2Z9ToDg2P1MBy6Y-LYROvrv3BsbN6LqFIPXPx0Mt9_RgNDfddvPxL3JCemdP1Bpxx9SxydIXzqufNwt660FiM-t4JBid_aA8iVfxtDwDwSn8zp8s_A/s1600/P1080123.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirNkrwwm8M2_Bz93U_5AhJ2Z9ToDg2P1MBy6Y-LYROvrv3BsbN6LqFIPXPx0Mt9_RgNDfddvPxL3JCemdP1Bpxx9SxydIXzqufNwt660FiM-t4JBid_aA8iVfxtDwDwSn8zp8s_A/s400/P1080123.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Like
Halji, we are in a very Tibetan environment now. Traditional dress, jewellery
featuring blue stones for the women, Tibetan rather than Nepali language,
prayer flags strewn across every roof, and architecture identical to that seen
north of the border. And the standard greeting has changed to 'Tashi Dalek'
(pronounced 'Tashi delay') rather than 'Namaste'.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
also managed to buy some beer to supply our camp. For the second night running,
we emptied the entire village stock of beer. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">45
minutes on, we reached the camp site, another 100m or so above the village, at
4115m. On the way, I was out in front and coming towards me was a lone rider on
a horse heading for Jang. It was a young woman, face wrapped in a scarf against
the dust, and she was clearly asleep, letting the horse get her home on a well
trod trail. I clapped a hand to alert her to my presence and she startled and
moved the horse into a trot, as if in embarrassment. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXD5RVqo-FR8GRDUzgHzkTCCYirCRJPkBTG6tcBgG9qOLO2imJfO1FZks9l-eq-IbdGXsqRZWp41q5fg7OOOmhewnQPQRwBGdN_xSypPEujSIta6Bge7Dz_ZrWicaaJTtLRw3UpA/s1600/P1080124.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXD5RVqo-FR8GRDUzgHzkTCCYirCRJPkBTG6tcBgG9qOLO2imJfO1FZks9l-eq-IbdGXsqRZWp41q5fg7OOOmhewnQPQRwBGdN_xSypPEujSIta6Bge7Dz_ZrWicaaJTtLRw3UpA/s400/P1080124.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Departing Jang for the camp</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJSNPhZV49fNoBNApkFJvk-rKzmT-iniwZ82P2S2PfFGCilkXCAbfDaGPpLTAWUOCrJRme5ek9xMvyUF2w3EPb6givv49aG0uJoVK47_hoGZQnhg9S2R7x-yMz7hAffoLFLDrN1A/s1600/P1080128.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJSNPhZV49fNoBNApkFJvk-rKzmT-iniwZ82P2S2PfFGCilkXCAbfDaGPpLTAWUOCrJRme5ek9xMvyUF2w3EPb6givv49aG0uJoVK47_hoGZQnhg9S2R7x-yMz7hAffoLFLDrN1A/s400/P1080128.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilXv72K8iNFYKVy7NKjh9TJuNjkpG01-_lB8o64UcFv315muBiO8D5vxI3MVa5AZKqYSNUuPp6JM4E17kbjbElrulOStSaAoEq1h8yRpwgbiIoG6wou0WBW4H5-rfNAMkZaDSWig/s1600/P1080132.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilXv72K8iNFYKVy7NKjh9TJuNjkpG01-_lB8o64UcFv315muBiO8D5vxI3MVa5AZKqYSNUuPp6JM4E17kbjbElrulOStSaAoEq1h8yRpwgbiIoG6wou0WBW4H5-rfNAMkZaDSWig/s400/P1080132.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camp next to Limi Khola above Jang</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9DcUGwyUuZbk_J0HJSbg0IYhAo-lCjLkkVlkTLQ4SjAEENV8RVVN5Bdxl48d529pQmR6qTRnfI5KcesRai-w9RJQR9U13SPOAsazCt-oefdmuJg7Q3mq5EltonV3GakIwMs1dBA/s1600/P1080139.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9DcUGwyUuZbk_J0HJSbg0IYhAo-lCjLkkVlkTLQ4SjAEENV8RVVN5Bdxl48d529pQmR6qTRnfI5KcesRai-w9RJQR9U13SPOAsazCt-oefdmuJg7Q3mq5EltonV3GakIwMs1dBA/s400/P1080139.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
are now in a wider valley area where the river has taken the opportunity to
spread into several channels. Fortuitously we are also close to a hot spring,
not sulphurous at all, so after a beer chilled in one of the river channels, a
good wash was enjoyed at the spring outlet itself, and a shower tent erected
for everyone to give themselves the first good clean in days. The only negative
at this location was the constant demand for money from various locals,
including, apparently, a bunch of road construction workers who arrived looking
for a 'donation'...they were politely but firmly seen off by our affable guide.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
splendid day of local culture and easy walking. And, no dust storms
tonight...what a bonus.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Friday
15 June</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
difficult night, disturbed by coughing caused by all the dust ingested over the
past week or so, and, because of the altitude some evidence of Cheyne-Stokes
breathing, where the body isn't taking enough air per breath, and then suddenly
has to catch up with a deeper breath to compensate. Three or four of us
reported this in the morning.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
set off in a cool wind at 0730, more cloud about today than we've seen in some
time.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Heading
east then north east, the path meandered across river meadows, crossed a few
low bluffs and eventually became a rough road as we approached some ruined
buildings at Traktse. We had earlier passed semi-nomadic people with tents made
from woven horse tail hair, tending dzo, yaks and cows. We had also observed a
number of folk using ponies to help them plough small terraced enclosures for
the next planting of barley, potatoes, or mustard. This is very primitive
farming.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiygatogQnIMvq2eUG3KLc5bFQCGQQwu8jtEddWM4UEY8d-2uaElhETYQ2DkvQA4aVb4YJ6_zCw1E9ydk7Eghyphenhyphen2FY2CPuvZjVODiqPZOjhp484tLCdIIoEcOXd0W0FqbVJnFD-vLw/s1600/P1080145.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiygatogQnIMvq2eUG3KLc5bFQCGQQwu8jtEddWM4UEY8d-2uaElhETYQ2DkvQA4aVb4YJ6_zCw1E9ydk7Eghyphenhyphen2FY2CPuvZjVODiqPZOjhp484tLCdIIoEcOXd0W0FqbVJnFD-vLw/s400/P1080145.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ploughing with the aid of a pony</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhznIu_en38g_kaxD_yFCB5wPMXXToZPqiO108pr5Eblbg-KxIxBQWjxx0WtkENROx4N8wT8-JR44Hbr9Whf7HP6UbY-YKPvJfT2lnmnDtjoskxLqdVIosLBZFH0t6Mk1ZPodbgCg/s1600/P1080149.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhznIu_en38g_kaxD_yFCB5wPMXXToZPqiO108pr5Eblbg-KxIxBQWjxx0WtkENROx4N8wT8-JR44Hbr9Whf7HP6UbY-YKPvJfT2lnmnDtjoskxLqdVIosLBZFH0t6Mk1ZPodbgCg/s400/P1080149.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Semi-nomadic herders, seen en route to Tholing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5NzG8bFnTUWji5J0KUGLTX5sGOeuYXRqcpPVpPAPAlpITdxCTe3RbluZ7gPBCR1UQmilAOQfNsi2Awr_T7oVoym7j6IJvYF_4F8pIY7AQkb50QCJAXY4lGFThZmwtczajx3_oBA/s1600/P1080154.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5NzG8bFnTUWji5J0KUGLTX5sGOeuYXRqcpPVpPAPAlpITdxCTe3RbluZ7gPBCR1UQmilAOQfNsi2Awr_T7oVoym7j6IJvYF_4F8pIY7AQkb50QCJAXY4lGFThZmwtczajx3_oBA/s400/P1080154.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvepj9AOkMCzEs4lYuia8CquyhnnkL9km28P6DBYmskYUIZxVIoigHm1RhT0c0CYD27yh7RPiFoncrDX-vigmbENz9EWm5qUplQGoGlwsRlNUWPY3AgOCppTn9ws5FwsyZG_AU2Q/s1600/P1080157.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvepj9AOkMCzEs4lYuia8CquyhnnkL9km28P6DBYmskYUIZxVIoigHm1RhT0c0CYD27yh7RPiFoncrDX-vigmbENz9EWm5qUplQGoGlwsRlNUWPY3AgOCppTn9ws5FwsyZG_AU2Q/s400/P1080157.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV7b10eRk5vVairGXKR5qzMeIJY_CaaxdpAgV-K18UV02HSJ7_c9BxFadkiG05raOWuUcG0jy7OYTznZ1FAIvRW7uBCtwWrx5JP8c42jBOLXW7_Y5kOr7T4BA1asYqPVc2f4fANg/s1600/P1080159.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV7b10eRk5vVairGXKR5qzMeIJY_CaaxdpAgV-K18UV02HSJ7_c9BxFadkiG05raOWuUcG0jy7OYTznZ1FAIvRW7uBCtwWrx5JP8c42jBOLXW7_Y5kOr7T4BA1asYqPVc2f4fANg/s400/P1080159.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Limi Khola at Tholing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Several
high snow capped peaks emerged behind us, the most notable being Chimma Chuli
4958m and it's neighbour Hilsa Tuppa 5409m, plus a fine peak, unnamed on the
map at 6034m, with a needle like rock pinnacle for the summit. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">There's
a trading post at Tholing 4152m, but the two shops there were devoid of any
stock. They are supplied via a rough road which enters from Tibet across the
Lapche La, about 25km to the north, and we later found out that this road is
currently blocked by a landslide, hence the shortage of supplies. No beer
tonight!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVE10em2tjp6a7HOrUi1PxfeVFzKORjPIXtcnC_xmEvC9zzKa0bdcjvUylESVWFqIgwmeyZILAUBAZwX7aDYP3WNP6hSv8ImMQVFogARD8RgYEyrbDetgrIscxOpiWG9pLeMvDAQ/s1600/P1080164.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVE10em2tjp6a7HOrUi1PxfeVFzKORjPIXtcnC_xmEvC9zzKa0bdcjvUylESVWFqIgwmeyZILAUBAZwX7aDYP3WNP6hSv8ImMQVFogARD8RgYEyrbDetgrIscxOpiWG9pLeMvDAQ/s640/P1080164.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSkw3nDyKwLpS518NU4LgD9RmoubmMKVFt74iq5K5UlJeBlN3X7K22qWIz69XQoaEgEFfG61chvDyyhywF1lKMLRoNJBsT8ptAHh_CO4NQnlkDY-9hAk2syGtIrcZ2hjVoN6nZHg/s1600/P1080166.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSkw3nDyKwLpS518NU4LgD9RmoubmMKVFt74iq5K5UlJeBlN3X7K22qWIz69XQoaEgEFfG61chvDyyhywF1lKMLRoNJBsT8ptAHh_CO4NQnlkDY-9hAk2syGtIrcZ2hjVoN6nZHg/s400/P1080166.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFtpkyLXVH5Fr8ASrM-cgTMm0DZTDHj8cegyFwfU8Qf6MagJX0e5dzJjCykxN8kA8hEVUtoMIgz4uYI6GtslfxdpilDhbxNCpKsxh1ls7OS-hudMqGRJJrXgWkez_LTwglPNIp6g/s1600/P1080169.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFtpkyLXVH5Fr8ASrM-cgTMm0DZTDHj8cegyFwfU8Qf6MagJX0e5dzJjCykxN8kA8hEVUtoMIgz4uYI6GtslfxdpilDhbxNCpKsxh1ls7OS-hudMqGRJJrXgWkez_LTwglPNIp6g/s400/P1080169.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from Traktse</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">South
of Traktse, we crossed a suspension bridge over the Takche Chu, below the
abandoned buildings of a village once known as Gumma Yok (4170m), and
approached a large terminal moraine faced with really fine white sand, most
unusual...it appears to be sand that blows into a dune in the lee of the
moraine, as there are large sand and gravel flats directly above, formed by the
moving waters of various large glacial outflows.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Climbing
up through the sand was tiresome, and at the top we were hit by a strong wind
blasting down from the 5000m pass of Nyalu La, which we cross tomorrow. We
crossed the river plain, using the horses to cross several deep water channels
and stopped for lunch near an attractive lake, the 1200m long Tshom Tso,
beautifully coloured by glacial sediment. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuKBnluVTesDhzVosXdhN8cvTP1E-ENtLqOnddUZLKJqvMzfHcGA6gewpxOP8inWx7H99ptLeG_jWoQtpJvrlsgqt0iMPLRzQudS2gxG28Zkz9A6ocvBrWrvX3sRHx930MVjFiIg/s1600/P1080171.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuKBnluVTesDhzVosXdhN8cvTP1E-ENtLqOnddUZLKJqvMzfHcGA6gewpxOP8inWx7H99ptLeG_jWoQtpJvrlsgqt0iMPLRzQudS2gxG28Zkz9A6ocvBrWrvX3sRHx930MVjFiIg/s640/P1080171.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crossing the Takche Chu</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP6AUotSMO6D010E246jLlrD4UrkU4bNqd6XhiATrAdwPjuc0PGa5U40KiJ81sk08lum-3D1MK7ar_4xQcbBRqWZ6d6-3c6maunMAOY3FRCkyhnbe-Bn5YAOwztnNrCQI8Gt4dOA/s1600/P1080174.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP6AUotSMO6D010E246jLlrD4UrkU4bNqd6XhiATrAdwPjuc0PGa5U40KiJ81sk08lum-3D1MK7ar_4xQcbBRqWZ6d6-3c6maunMAOY3FRCkyhnbe-Bn5YAOwztnNrCQI8Gt4dOA/s400/P1080174.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEika1x237d4ihHmqaYy52uqKVC5e1J0-8OONUfkn2YMTeR-Y0heru6KPLipJPglilkVAugxEgpV-otiuDk4FqVue7_cN3N8nFo9-i0X-pOb7g-XU4TgpqpXvSZqNQ5pMQ7ddwaQOg/s1600/P1080181.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEika1x237d4ihHmqaYy52uqKVC5e1J0-8OONUfkn2YMTeR-Y0heru6KPLipJPglilkVAugxEgpV-otiuDk4FqVue7_cN3N8nFo9-i0X-pOb7g-XU4TgpqpXvSZqNQ5pMQ7ddwaQOg/s400/P1080181.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Climbing sand dunes...hard work!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPQQoBqmmdl62TPcmq9FnWMAd_YkGXDxKFC5WxKPDH0thm_BhNKFio2e8r736fXJ8BlrwLdEE4a9nhn14DkqtO-HekbrJ9zpQXiWZssAvSsnK_kp0ieBZWECwInxzQag4EpHelhA/s1600/P1080184.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPQQoBqmmdl62TPcmq9FnWMAd_YkGXDxKFC5WxKPDH0thm_BhNKFio2e8r736fXJ8BlrwLdEE4a9nhn14DkqtO-HekbrJ9zpQXiWZssAvSsnK_kp0ieBZWECwInxzQag4EpHelhA/s400/P1080184.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The windy approach to Tshom Tso</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUx8G0BTRX93b3cmIAaSkmZdmyBe24247MIV2LE5dPtkfa6ikF2j-z2O796poQai4JGTDiqg07Ga8BR73H6B1imQO7idkrft4EFIr6rvbH81SwBKbGr_tokag1yaXW-dPY-vbaww/s1600/P1080186.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUx8G0BTRX93b3cmIAaSkmZdmyBe24247MIV2LE5dPtkfa6ikF2j-z2O796poQai4JGTDiqg07Ga8BR73H6B1imQO7idkrft4EFIr6rvbH81SwBKbGr_tokag1yaXW-dPY-vbaww/s400/P1080186.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsqsjIm1heP9xcXKfPqdAErLYRUdhwIvVD_UBrnXd-yT6a2i6RlDOc1OuGQ_E4LN313HYPPJS4LXNywGb5yFEOH5e15rKxIQVnLWdF-IxIVN7FOSsashHOylTtfL3LPfw9_XMDmA/s1600/P1080188.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsqsjIm1heP9xcXKfPqdAErLYRUdhwIvVD_UBrnXd-yT6a2i6RlDOc1OuGQ_E4LN313HYPPJS4LXNywGb5yFEOH5e15rKxIQVnLWdF-IxIVN7FOSsashHOylTtfL3LPfw9_XMDmA/s400/P1080188.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">River crossings below Tshom Tso</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghHe9mVtL7JH89OXpI4-gr0Zb3yUecO7kptSpFVBGy4w8hbULxh_MtemjxTzcCd1XHgXHL86DZAa9lB_y0LMhR9lBUO3FAF4Az7cNHckJUx3uawxPI17XqNZzlKZw3GwnJJT7uQQ/s1600/P1080195.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghHe9mVtL7JH89OXpI4-gr0Zb3yUecO7kptSpFVBGy4w8hbULxh_MtemjxTzcCd1XHgXHL86DZAa9lB_y0LMhR9lBUO3FAF4Az7cNHckJUx3uawxPI17XqNZzlKZw3GwnJJT7uQQ/s400/P1080195.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
next couple of hours were spent ploughing up the east side of the lake into the
valley containing the Talun Khola and other glacial rivers which empty into it.
This is hard, bleak country, with huge mountains towering around us on all
sides and the Nyalu La getting ever closer, revealing tomorrow's ascent route
as we progressed up the valley. Some pink geese and black and white cranes
spotted, as well as a few large but nervous marmots. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
good journey, 7 hours in all, with our final camp, Talun (Limi) Camp at 4380m.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfdUkkc3XZpYkVgfbdGhlkmeG89bNSk5_Mwx200s3Xgadnhd-tojatLlyYbhr8nGfsCSjPAnXqDvBtyaHPhpcFESmN45n_jv9WeVN9HFGJD5WE3zo5ggLANkSJO7F9RSj8KxwnCg/s1600/P1080201.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfdUkkc3XZpYkVgfbdGhlkmeG89bNSk5_Mwx200s3Xgadnhd-tojatLlyYbhr8nGfsCSjPAnXqDvBtyaHPhpcFESmN45n_jv9WeVN9HFGJD5WE3zo5ggLANkSJO7F9RSj8KxwnCg/s400/P1080201.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tshom Tso</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOeSYFmmajJ1aqLBmpx9__7nSJBvI7cdZUd_rs5BUihcZXp17GH26cmxNz5iY6QUKVHOiYPUj4W6xoJav0H8e6RG9ehXROD2PbLG9In9CfmO6o-gQzDJcQccT7yfWW3DWhkhVmjA/s1600/P1080213.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOeSYFmmajJ1aqLBmpx9__7nSJBvI7cdZUd_rs5BUihcZXp17GH26cmxNz5iY6QUKVHOiYPUj4W6xoJav0H8e6RG9ehXROD2PbLG9In9CfmO6o-gQzDJcQccT7yfWW3DWhkhVmjA/s400/P1080213.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Talun (Limi) Camp, 4380m</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Saturday
16 June</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Most
of the team had a good night's sleep, so were very ready for our big day over
the final big pass of the trip. We walked from Talun Camp 4380m to Nyalu La
5001m, the fastest team in 2 hours 45 minutes and the final group 3 hours 20
minutes...all well under the time suggested by our guide. Well done the team!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
route was an easy slog up a newly made but rough road, gaining a couple of
hundred metres in height in the process. The trail then steepened considerably,
and the shortcomings in the local road construction process was all too
apparent, with new streams choosing the road as their preferred channel and the
road already collapsing in places. The ground was steep and unstable, with a
little hard packed snow to cross, but it enabled rapid height gain into a big
basin immediately below the pass itself, with splendid views unfolding behind
us as we crossed the rocky ground to make the final ascent.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
final pull was short and steep, but just safe enough for horses and our mule
train. At the top, a shade over 5000m, the views were stupendous. It was hazy
in the distance so the potential view of Kailas was not seen today, although
Gurla Mandata's snow slopes could be viewed from our vantage point.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgttvyUFIzc9SBUDR7U-9Lb8ViRKfwngblaJzxhqU6iPvddRFtjGjtzDB1XjgcoYJ108v2VOM8WzQwvEOneOXgIMiVTWH8wmoQi1HnQBq5ECRWgjczLQVvG_-qLDTbuAE_wPTMcBA/s1600/P1080216.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgttvyUFIzc9SBUDR7U-9Lb8ViRKfwngblaJzxhqU6iPvddRFtjGjtzDB1XjgcoYJ108v2VOM8WzQwvEOneOXgIMiVTWH8wmoQi1HnQBq5ECRWgjczLQVvG_-qLDTbuAE_wPTMcBA/s400/P1080216.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Climbing to the Nyalu La</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4cQB1rpuckXmnHbfY1SqqRUecf5hmKZzES4MENL4zc1VmwJAIY1icWybun1SfBNAFlIrg1RVGm2CCtTFReo5kxCA_dxqV4p2cWUBA-l05fEitHrvyvYSAETUFWTFCqFZsa7eN6w/s1600/P1080222.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4cQB1rpuckXmnHbfY1SqqRUecf5hmKZzES4MENL4zc1VmwJAIY1icWybun1SfBNAFlIrg1RVGm2CCtTFReo5kxCA_dxqV4p2cWUBA-l05fEitHrvyvYSAETUFWTFCqFZsa7eN6w/s400/P1080222.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPMggQBh0yR1V1y6rZoDL1mIc8-mVthveE9b5LLa64-mFgR_Ci74odB-iKV9Oasq_2AsDJTYDbiXr2VG_uda7hJ-kMfCvSlwR8OnSLauqIbEJ1LgQ8GacDNzfwf4E_cw7bBDrl8Q/s1600/P1080224.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPMggQBh0yR1V1y6rZoDL1mIc8-mVthveE9b5LLa64-mFgR_Ci74odB-iKV9Oasq_2AsDJTYDbiXr2VG_uda7hJ-kMfCvSlwR8OnSLauqIbEJ1LgQ8GacDNzfwf4E_cw7bBDrl8Q/s400/P1080224.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXLGH2brjbeNonLBrZzGd9g0yZMHb05XWFMlfk-CgMhjQTlbaExIuGQRLaXJiJgvRTpa6GD61Vh0TwLBvm2UCTDkuDyxIKU0igeKJxLoKBoI2JaTDZ1LM6zh46ad4SfSkx4ybSOg/s1600/P1080227.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXLGH2brjbeNonLBrZzGd9g0yZMHb05XWFMlfk-CgMhjQTlbaExIuGQRLaXJiJgvRTpa6GD61Vh0TwLBvm2UCTDkuDyxIKU0igeKJxLoKBoI2JaTDZ1LM6zh46ad4SfSkx4ybSOg/s400/P1080227.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzArpqKOZl1TEhKmQXkO0CtHsUz1Blj_MBnKPjbixoDpwi9HQgACdWZeUEQ3Zmn2rQQgxoRGgu91J7QNK2MI3kqX_INjEWIuetxcaIt2Wzil-s56UfFCflfw5fp1hmNuI6w3cj2Q/s1600/P1080228.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzArpqKOZl1TEhKmQXkO0CtHsUz1Blj_MBnKPjbixoDpwi9HQgACdWZeUEQ3Zmn2rQQgxoRGgu91J7QNK2MI3kqX_INjEWIuetxcaIt2Wzil-s56UfFCflfw5fp1hmNuI6w3cj2Q/s640/P1080228.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Summit of Nyalu La, 5001m</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMA7W1X40X8Yc4Q9i8HsX9qE5yJlRlx5RxrN9taK3UiB2gUtLRqR6rTLaG6tjpOzFIIuzLPnQT9KcMhlRK2_1qI50cWZHCOVAIsjVuvNtTWxIGP_0uGIiwItH1z5Qj5ZLZ22JI6w/s1600/P1080236_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMA7W1X40X8Yc4Q9i8HsX9qE5yJlRlx5RxrN9taK3UiB2gUtLRqR6rTLaG6tjpOzFIIuzLPnQT9KcMhlRK2_1qI50cWZHCOVAIsjVuvNtTWxIGP_0uGIiwItH1z5Qj5ZLZ22JI6w/s400/P1080236_2.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcJtZx1-AEcjhi_pXNdraikoo5KU8fGcJoyPRX8MuZ8hQ4DX3V6cS8DN5qNn3SxK53DpbOwSCeykHDNukCc4B1v6ipwdKrwtBwUGYod2ssjP3VkHAL7nyP5cb_mi_pROki_6vtgw/s1600/P1080250.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcJtZx1-AEcjhi_pXNdraikoo5KU8fGcJoyPRX8MuZ8hQ4DX3V6cS8DN5qNn3SxK53DpbOwSCeykHDNukCc4B1v6ipwdKrwtBwUGYod2ssjP3VkHAL7nyP5cb_mi_pROki_6vtgw/s400/P1080250.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Views north from the Nyalu La</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyqds4pFDOhI3_XTAsaWm20Bda1YAIEoj1LYtWiTdP5KVqvJ7sHb4MD8NMPx60xC-8nZNnCoy9HzoDiup7wd8mOAowK5vw4krhhXVy2-UvxCyaFp9AJLHL12UHQSwFqFHYX2j8Pw/s1600/P1080259.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyqds4pFDOhI3_XTAsaWm20Bda1YAIEoj1LYtWiTdP5KVqvJ7sHb4MD8NMPx60xC-8nZNnCoy9HzoDiup7wd8mOAowK5vw4krhhXVy2-UvxCyaFp9AJLHL12UHQSwFqFHYX2j8Pw/s400/P1080259.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqPWo7zcCX_PR1nyLFmA6ksb92hvMkKF4vEFbByl7n1uE2kMeUVOfz03OB35GSvu1GeYZC-vGgJicRIvN9Y6GeZ3xZuN6E8r0EJmiKIH9Csd4TsGfxDhO-vGR5RypyAddNcGj9HA/s1600/P1080260.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqPWo7zcCX_PR1nyLFmA6ksb92hvMkKF4vEFbByl7n1uE2kMeUVOfz03OB35GSvu1GeYZC-vGgJicRIvN9Y6GeZ3xZuN6E8r0EJmiKIH9Csd4TsGfxDhO-vGR5RypyAddNcGj9HA/s400/P1080260.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5QfncREqAMTHo6EZJ_7CdHByhuZ9iz4hx1E7Tu1i1V8CpV-r866W6bXpGnyLjj-qyaDIDM36wg-BApHHjjCrCUJsiNYfV1z-yuS-q0jR-xZhtojHZej2Fvd2xiwGa5-VcJPxbzg/s1600/P1080264.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5QfncREqAMTHo6EZJ_7CdHByhuZ9iz4hx1E7Tu1i1V8CpV-r866W6bXpGnyLjj-qyaDIDM36wg-BApHHjjCrCUJsiNYfV1z-yuS-q0jR-xZhtojHZej2Fvd2xiwGa5-VcJPxbzg/s400/P1080264.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our sherpa, Kaji (second left), with members of our support team</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkpdgNqKn8-rsghEf9KXqUl1r10LN30blupDWHYNTkSrJS-FSYc6urmDcLUnZt7FP7Pa87kdc_YvF7H_iMMS5OPYWyV72Q6D95r7Vi6SjfM3RaAaqe_ECy4P0i8kGTSZoe8iZ4yA/s1600/P1080267.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkpdgNqKn8-rsghEf9KXqUl1r10LN30blupDWHYNTkSrJS-FSYc6urmDcLUnZt7FP7Pa87kdc_YvF7H_iMMS5OPYWyV72Q6D95r7Vi6SjfM3RaAaqe_ECy4P0i8kGTSZoe8iZ4yA/s400/P1080267.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh2UF2xvBmZyKlK9a1rU3HbI3Cp2HWjne14tVLjp1U6WlTSvPQgLpOf8hXrvocowqOAEqXuT5ss9ZFXydiNRu9I5OmmIijl0SocqbCcZG-PE2xouVulbZOjSq_8OS3KkcJGJQ8rw/s1600/P1080277.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh2UF2xvBmZyKlK9a1rU3HbI3Cp2HWjne14tVLjp1U6WlTSvPQgLpOf8hXrvocowqOAEqXuT5ss9ZFXydiNRu9I5OmmIijl0SocqbCcZG-PE2xouVulbZOjSq_8OS3KkcJGJQ8rw/s400/P1080277.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcjybGtgPfw_9UERIczthIWtckPO6-Tp7ZOAYxGNfE5_1E3wxRdVbdNPQwhS_PeOCeRVFj6drD1HWDNTj6Q3UUs-6Php5_MC9uGK2ARThP4Ibbno5enj34M3tVmSzrkzznZjDf6g/s1600/P1080280.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcjybGtgPfw_9UERIczthIWtckPO6-Tp7ZOAYxGNfE5_1E3wxRdVbdNPQwhS_PeOCeRVFj6drD1HWDNTj6Q3UUs-6Php5_MC9uGK2ARThP4Ibbno5enj34M3tVmSzrkzznZjDf6g/s400/P1080280.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The full team at Nyalu La</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOW82AkVtVbcU1mOOQMcBSGiQ80fpdrxFOdKfeWIiN9JqCde7zKry3iOL9Dvpfl2nwCEAUngFW9kKFKIAgv1nQmWU7of5Y3sQDs2Hlv4qQrtWIvYhEGozMz7J0cmES_2G3zl_qkA/s1600/P1080282_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOW82AkVtVbcU1mOOQMcBSGiQ80fpdrxFOdKfeWIiN9JqCde7zKry3iOL9Dvpfl2nwCEAUngFW9kKFKIAgv1nQmWU7of5Y3sQDs2Hlv4qQrtWIvYhEGozMz7J0cmES_2G3zl_qkA/s400/P1080282_2.jpg" height="321" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8kdjc21YeVoCMRONE3mpYt5LM-CkCyZRPtmaIj5-c8GUDGjmNAqEtRuXY7FXdEOagLtV5AclyQj3rr1joE4kPzePvHhxw3gi-eopfzTBffbsVmr9tTVrzv3qCqvl5oMWM3FJoFw/s1600/P1080287.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8kdjc21YeVoCMRONE3mpYt5LM-CkCyZRPtmaIj5-c8GUDGjmNAqEtRuXY7FXdEOagLtV5AclyQj3rr1joE4kPzePvHhxw3gi-eopfzTBffbsVmr9tTVrzv3qCqvl5oMWM3FJoFw/s400/P1080287.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'Proof'!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
enjoyed views west to Phupharka Himal, north east to Changwathang (6130m) and
the partially clouded massif of the Changgla Himal to the east, the highest
point 6246m.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">There
was an easy descent for lunch above Selana Daho lake, then down via a new
roughly hewn road into the upper reaches of the Chhungsa Khola with towering
cliffs 400-500m high above us on either side with some very high waterfalls.
The only real hazard today was stone fall from a large excavator driving slowly
above us to dig out more of the road!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7bOpa-Od7_P5yraKO69SoHjXNL1y3S12QMMD_jqdhmP-jv_NQgBvwt7KeC-AOuJ35u5GC1cJu4As5umtRSfh9qMGzyWz4Z1rapdhfYUXIclwrRrYUdF1Rrf3EF7Kyvdp063AOfw/s1600/P1080296.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7bOpa-Od7_P5yraKO69SoHjXNL1y3S12QMMD_jqdhmP-jv_NQgBvwt7KeC-AOuJ35u5GC1cJu4As5umtRSfh9qMGzyWz4Z1rapdhfYUXIclwrRrYUdF1Rrf3EF7Kyvdp063AOfw/s400/P1080296.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The long descent into the valley of Chhungsa Khola</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhovEl1F9WJgTF5mnd7l81Cy9IqF5KJh0G5cFm9vdyLNfW1EDSm_c03_kV0qWoAjiu4u4C8z6ZemXpzP888XF3GmNUPo0MfF9mWe1OGq7R2NV7IcFXSWxg_O3q33A3Lu0spOuweIw/s1600/P1080300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhovEl1F9WJgTF5mnd7l81Cy9IqF5KJh0G5cFm9vdyLNfW1EDSm_c03_kV0qWoAjiu4u4C8z6ZemXpzP888XF3GmNUPo0MfF9mWe1OGq7R2NV7IcFXSWxg_O3q33A3Lu0spOuweIw/s400/P1080300.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhp1-c93meNi4S0MMDjs5VaiF4OYgyz61kCP8qJQaXx-lUWpHJvH_NCUtD2RaIpXQN6M0FNf7qX_sowb45RL9rf0V5395GA6DSQFmEgpwckuHMa_7xPNmwwjqHWHENT2beaA-3GQ/s1600/P1080301.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhp1-c93meNi4S0MMDjs5VaiF4OYgyz61kCP8qJQaXx-lUWpHJvH_NCUtD2RaIpXQN6M0FNf7qX_sowb45RL9rf0V5395GA6DSQFmEgpwckuHMa_7xPNmwwjqHWHENT2beaA-3GQ/s400/P1080301.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGtAIUgW5ukG8O3vh-fze9MHk6sx0XLmzbowsLNbcWswbWEEBSw29S0Cykyxk1Ot8Te5sValwK9G6_qhynX86ttGT0_-nlClVXvVZcn7I-drB6mCOuYH2kwt6_3rFDxra-dXJhRw/s1600/P1080302.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGtAIUgW5ukG8O3vh-fze9MHk6sx0XLmzbowsLNbcWswbWEEBSw29S0Cykyxk1Ot8Te5sValwK9G6_qhynX86ttGT0_-nlClVXvVZcn7I-drB6mCOuYH2kwt6_3rFDxra-dXJhRw/s640/P1080302.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmh7AVTCR9MjNi9kNXgigMsev0ZEklCz_AP-ZHWK8Vmab87NKLYjXsGXNjI6zNnV9-0bBMezDerunZzepmvGVLUxnVG_eUjNiCk1dk586TBHPS6IUAJIUAA3s1AuLtttugj50KcQ/s1600/P1080310.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmh7AVTCR9MjNi9kNXgigMsev0ZEklCz_AP-ZHWK8Vmab87NKLYjXsGXNjI6zNnV9-0bBMezDerunZzepmvGVLUxnVG_eUjNiCk1dk586TBHPS6IUAJIUAA3s1AuLtttugj50KcQ/s640/P1080310.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Huge waterfalls above our penultimate camp</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjgRs_IjKQ76APYADgEFcQwnS9lpMcbekAq62niM03AGmeuOBR11gb7CjOVk4cOMVDDgpP9JF9IymLksEm9fY7VJh9w9HRufLX-XE3n6eiz2psN62ptg8SX8ls-o-fUSCPIkYG3w/s1600/P1080314.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjgRs_IjKQ76APYADgEFcQwnS9lpMcbekAq62niM03AGmeuOBR11gb7CjOVk4cOMVDDgpP9JF9IymLksEm9fY7VJh9w9HRufLX-XE3n6eiz2psN62ptg8SX8ls-o-fUSCPIkYG3w/s400/P1080314.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">It
was a long descent down the Chhungsa Khola to our camp at 3907m, giving a total
descent of over 1100m today. Our camp is next to the river on yak pasture, so
careful where you put your feet!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">And
it's much hotter down here too.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Sunday
17 June</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
disturbed night on an undulating tent pitch.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Last
evening our team had decided to elect for the 'high route' back to Simikot, a
remote two day trek over some higher passes, avoiding some duplication of our
first couple of days in Humla and the heat lower down in the valley.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Little
did we know what we'd let ourselves in for, especially now that some team
members are nearing physical exhaustion and the camp food quality has
diminished as the crew were unable to replenish supplies in the Limi Valley due
to a landslide blocking the access road from China. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
day started innocuously enough, dropping down the Chhungsa Khola valley about
100-150m, then turning east into the valley of the Takchi Khola, walking up
through pleasant woodland, mainly pine, silver beech and rhodedendra bushes. We
happened on quite a few road workers who are manually cutting a road out of
this valley over to Kermi. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Rising
above the wooded area, the valley widened out with a more bleak high mountain
feel, with yaks and dzo grazing high pastures above us.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIBaXtM7gFs-m_GNcqbRyST9dCi_zvg6pbXdUoN8G9CyQ43XAwAnaZ_WRN2e6kjxsuej0TLLzUq1yHjLckUXa0L5eE2ETrBbCAGaCOYBEpylUFsXEUJQrvt0rdLYdT5HsmT625zA/s1600/P1080324.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIBaXtM7gFs-m_GNcqbRyST9dCi_zvg6pbXdUoN8G9CyQ43XAwAnaZ_WRN2e6kjxsuej0TLLzUq1yHjLckUXa0L5eE2ETrBbCAGaCOYBEpylUFsXEUJQrvt0rdLYdT5HsmT625zA/s640/P1080324.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Takchi Khola</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZeQKa6PLmDr028SX_8V6LjKP3M5smUomkERsOed2akL1ItiGRPi9rm9jGKGDAOjvvL8QitnOXB049YYwhPWGjJHx-zGDfRDZOjZ1ShE2S4sh-KDNlJbF-tSCQS9cAig5znEI7Sg/s1600/P1080328.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZeQKa6PLmDr028SX_8V6LjKP3M5smUomkERsOed2akL1ItiGRPi9rm9jGKGDAOjvvL8QitnOXB049YYwhPWGjJHx-zGDfRDZOjZ1ShE2S4sh-KDNlJbF-tSCQS9cAig5znEI7Sg/s640/P1080328.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
pass, southwards from our track, eventually came into view and a river crossing
on a frail wooden bridge brought us to a climb of some 250-300m, mostly easy
going, crossing some old snow but with a horrible final pull up the last 70m or
so on very loose mud and shale. Unpleasant and hard work, but emerging through
a gap cut in a low snow cornice, we were again rewarded with exceptional views
from the summit of Sechi La 4530m. Mountains like Changwathang 6130m close to
the Chinese border reared up again, and hazy views to the Saipal Himal in the
south.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_BKqwKHBWTtlwkJKrI0KTlKxI9qjLu2tkLCG3nUWuaYxanIBcdFyRNnTF8tcE0MQC84g_kEOeCkPt0dGuZKclBX8Uhw9_TwXnWqw_lIFcZoUOlwxKqpYtqAqIGW6NUGhvPpTnPg/s1600/P1080330.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_BKqwKHBWTtlwkJKrI0KTlKxI9qjLu2tkLCG3nUWuaYxanIBcdFyRNnTF8tcE0MQC84g_kEOeCkPt0dGuZKclBX8Uhw9_TwXnWqw_lIFcZoUOlwxKqpYtqAqIGW6NUGhvPpTnPg/s400/P1080330.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sechi La 4530m</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD9JzMR1FdEf4MiidCi5PVbQuf3TG2OArzHw9XUXOClCfhWrJvBAG6KI1DNpSiWFuOj57ho1Yzy8Z98ZNnsIE0FWqfSSSHC3UtkggIgXuXsu71egA-Np5mdRTL9ja5ATy2DDsQGQ/s1600/P1080332.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD9JzMR1FdEf4MiidCi5PVbQuf3TG2OArzHw9XUXOClCfhWrJvBAG6KI1DNpSiWFuOj57ho1Yzy8Z98ZNnsIE0FWqfSSSHC3UtkggIgXuXsu71egA-Np5mdRTL9ja5ATy2DDsQGQ/s400/P1080332.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifuWRRDgRZfitt0YHYRnbbULJNIYvjWoQ8Zyi4krG_WMz1emx5zpny5IDEHJ7pvfD7DJGebNmg53_KzS5meB_SYMrcWsusKUPlFvXMK0QDmCs7NFQ7FjKflqoGZ4Fe2KzHI4ZxXg/s1600/P1080333.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifuWRRDgRZfitt0YHYRnbbULJNIYvjWoQ8Zyi4krG_WMz1emx5zpny5IDEHJ7pvfD7DJGebNmg53_KzS5meB_SYMrcWsusKUPlFvXMK0QDmCs7NFQ7FjKflqoGZ4Fe2KzHI4ZxXg/s400/P1080333.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
didn't linger long, as there was a substantial descent to do before lunch, and
700 hard metres later, much of it on loose dusty sand and grit, we emerged in
the valley of the Thangui Khola, and sat close to the fast running river in hot
sunshine, with some locals making the local beer, chang, in a hut near the
river. Locals are less friendly around here. They often don't respond to
'Namaste' but come and sit close to the team to just observe modern trekkers
with all their gear and gadgetry. More often than not, they attempt to scrounge
medication for various ills, and occasionally we've been able to help out.
We're amongst the Humla people again, women usually adorned with nose
piercings.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7FNpwSf03dB35bOU7jsl05b2DTuTYI7mG5Y-6wL6Z8nvfvw3u2eDX4ZrlB5AD6gDoLfKNLQhdEFEOD0EuZZ7uY4T2Niczrel1igvi8sGrao9zmlVY_hq9mVISTVMw87dMappwVg/s1600/P1080340.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7FNpwSf03dB35bOU7jsl05b2DTuTYI7mG5Y-6wL6Z8nvfvw3u2eDX4ZrlB5AD6gDoLfKNLQhdEFEOD0EuZZ7uY4T2Niczrel1igvi8sGrao9zmlVY_hq9mVISTVMw87dMappwVg/s400/P1080340.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The sustained descent from Sechi La</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">After
lunch we had a steep climb of about 250m to attain our second pass of the day,
at about 3880m, then a wonderful high level 'balcon' path brought us to the
final pass of the day, the delightfully situated Chhubang Lagna at about 3900m.
There were views back to the Sechi La...it seems a long way back now, and is
600m above us, and views over the mountains to the south, snow covered but
largely lost in the afternoon haze.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh1BrjrmxtXXHao-0-fJlrTp1IiX4mo7TKULBgGPt5VuXaL9g951jJd-hJy_LXhBCLzF1JQhsuLLLpODCgmAFY2zu_vxvSPE4I84dVPx9Dfw8e3NRheTjoWVbWIeS9Ao7NqBycZA/s1600/P1080344.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh1BrjrmxtXXHao-0-fJlrTp1IiX4mo7TKULBgGPt5VuXaL9g951jJd-hJy_LXhBCLzF1JQhsuLLLpODCgmAFY2zu_vxvSPE4I84dVPx9Dfw8e3NRheTjoWVbWIeS9Ao7NqBycZA/s400/P1080344.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking back to Sechi La, the notch on the horizon!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5k1E1UADz6qX1N7ftwKIJgDLf2KUReQAB9q3Gg_0PPZLaZEbKNgcljs3oqBXy75ELId5d-QjwCO-iKrhjgKxhO8skpWDn_gtxLESh2bQ2iM5fQ7XwyUmQ52ILo6nhjYHhGcVsiw/s1600/P1080345.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5k1E1UADz6qX1N7ftwKIJgDLf2KUReQAB9q3Gg_0PPZLaZEbKNgcljs3oqBXy75ELId5d-QjwCO-iKrhjgKxhO8skpWDn_gtxLESh2bQ2iM5fQ7XwyUmQ52ILo6nhjYHhGcVsiw/s400/P1080345.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The third and final pass of the day, accessed along an easy 'balcon' path</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
quick break, then a final easy descent to a nicely situated camp, Lek Dinga at
3714m, next to a small lake.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">It
had been a harder day than we all had expected, but our final trek day tomorrow
will soon dissipate our collective weariness. Roll on a decent bed and a cold
beer!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqjv1UqmFtJV4gN4OEHRIb5PxLwRMNrphWzS6M0gmBmclPtQdo8nRsXzPbWkFnw-aP2j6rHjz3CvxRdTe0ROnyrJCpwh8ygv3oANbL8iO9h2RNtN-vPqTEm7N1Mj7pDEl_zjIpCQ/s1600/P1080354.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqjv1UqmFtJV4gN4OEHRIb5PxLwRMNrphWzS6M0gmBmclPtQdo8nRsXzPbWkFnw-aP2j6rHjz3CvxRdTe0ROnyrJCpwh8ygv3oANbL8iO9h2RNtN-vPqTEm7N1Mj7pDEl_zjIpCQ/s400/P1080354.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The final camp at Lek Dinga, 3714m</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3ruIdOsBABZ3ivBk4WoqhrXA4i22AdZf3DTuFVOMq2DhkdPulChYTLHhcq4yy0XflAXsOflUwcQlqvZZumhx94PnSINzPGfJMh_ASHsdKd-ZD9U55fTHyrs564y79rwqpr5DkrQ/s1600/P1080357.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3ruIdOsBABZ3ivBk4WoqhrXA4i22AdZf3DTuFVOMq2DhkdPulChYTLHhcq4yy0XflAXsOflUwcQlqvZZumhx94PnSINzPGfJMh_ASHsdKd-ZD9U55fTHyrs564y79rwqpr5DkrQ/s400/P1080357.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Monday
18 June</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Final
day. Awoke to spots of rain on the tent, the first precipitation for weeks!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Low
cloud, rolling down into our little valley retreat, adding a lot of atmosphere
and a complete change in environment. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Everyone
was keen to get going and we made quick progress down through barley fields
being prepared for the next crop, with mist circling around us. An easy descent
at first, passing through the deserted village of Lek Hepka and then more
steeply down to Yakba (lower Hepka), a total descent of some 700-800m in under
two hours. A quick stop by the Hepka Khola, before the final (or at least we
thought) climb of about 250m up and across the many interlocking spurs between
us and the final objective, the air strip at Simikot. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiov2Dxj81Tqp-N-dZJM29LPDg1s016JaYcTMcvqz7XhTGK6ssE3uZqHrxAqDxGGsopvumuJDa1dyHOJ9TlLtYZxwZ2tgLkeZ9t9Age4LAyK9C5RfkeOQTjjSEy5xobUpDiE6pB6Q/s1600/P1080360.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiov2Dxj81Tqp-N-dZJM29LPDg1s016JaYcTMcvqz7XhTGK6ssE3uZqHrxAqDxGGsopvumuJDa1dyHOJ9TlLtYZxwZ2tgLkeZ9t9Age4LAyK9C5RfkeOQTjjSEy5xobUpDiE6pB6Q/s400/P1080360.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clouds down at Lek Dinga</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxpqGIDjrQAD0j93O2dWnCEmKPtl4QYdRDlx5iuOpFAFX8PK24fOA6KXM4viZtMYsiaBUi0vNAWeI-kpG7b1CNp5Hizg4bJE27b_vSzqqsK-fCzoV7rQ0Ebm_4ygKs2OysK5_InQ/s1600/P1080364.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxpqGIDjrQAD0j93O2dWnCEmKPtl4QYdRDlx5iuOpFAFX8PK24fOA6KXM4viZtMYsiaBUi0vNAWeI-kpG7b1CNp5Hizg4bJE27b_vSzqqsK-fCzoV7rQ0Ebm_4ygKs2OysK5_InQ/s400/P1080364.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lek Hepka</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ9JHtiE-6KKPCn3blR2tVyjnA7uemBhJQSv9wcfhF8fhxtMk228wMXqO_pMHKJwOTqzY_bbYc08fSighMZSQPGE6YPTeqJ-Cf3ddk7kDbMsW3R2lZfaii3liwWev4VffLl3YfgQ/s1600/P1080369.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ9JHtiE-6KKPCn3blR2tVyjnA7uemBhJQSv9wcfhF8fhxtMk228wMXqO_pMHKJwOTqzY_bbYc08fSighMZSQPGE6YPTeqJ-Cf3ddk7kDbMsW3R2lZfaii3liwWev4VffLl3YfgQ/s400/P1080369.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hepka Khola</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">It
was a good pull up a well defined path, and we took a break at some huts after
about an hour of ascent, only to find the path continuing to rise. And this it
did, until we found ourselves at almost 3300m again, having steadily climbed up
another contouring path around the many spurs high above our first trek night
stop at Dharapor, which was now almost 1000m below us.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">However,
in normal fashion, the presence of prayer flags at the very top of the trail
indicated that we were now started on the descent route to Simikot, the first
view being of the military camp on top of a prominent hill above the town.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ-YHAzy1BELK7tBAopw_MCNE_cT3Z1sAxXfwZk9v723cndwfdKyAmyjnCsyOGueM4T340sFN_u8zOYD6uxxc2UhsnuBMhi9nrz_Jda1djoYg4tQWlJYzEVFxL8SI4hyphenhyphenXw8rac3A/s1600/P1080377.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ-YHAzy1BELK7tBAopw_MCNE_cT3Z1sAxXfwZk9v723cndwfdKyAmyjnCsyOGueM4T340sFN_u8zOYD6uxxc2UhsnuBMhi9nrz_Jda1djoYg4tQWlJYzEVFxL8SI4hyphenhyphenXw8rac3A/s400/P1080377.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rejoining the Karnali river valley, high above Dharapor</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoA_Y344c52PhP5Tv5v-hjbZ-iHtTAyGKuOUKiClCwko0L2BrrAy2kJSb_tJwrgbzC8Gjy0r6uTxFwBTMIceYSf0YCzyzEnpp0GBlwovqxAYzAlphJLdjgNGnz1Zhy5k-LtGGQDw/s1600/P1080382.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoA_Y344c52PhP5Tv5v-hjbZ-iHtTAyGKuOUKiClCwko0L2BrrAy2kJSb_tJwrgbzC8Gjy0r6uTxFwBTMIceYSf0YCzyzEnpp0GBlwovqxAYzAlphJLdjgNGnz1Zhy5k-LtGGQDw/s400/P1080382.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjaE615mtPHQ4ucx5TuQKLEqKKZjXvNia5ktWURdNbjvUt4vrRuplo7dto5W4RTE_IaRFSKrnrmu7WBrPVzFekHn9JDnq71AerfuD6LwadwXu3mGsuB4m2vU6BmCUADudpnAeouQ/s1600/P1080386.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjaE615mtPHQ4ucx5TuQKLEqKKZjXvNia5ktWURdNbjvUt4vrRuplo7dto5W4RTE_IaRFSKrnrmu7WBrPVzFekHn9JDnq71AerfuD6LwadwXu3mGsuB4m2vU6BmCUADudpnAeouQ/s400/P1080386.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simikot in sight...never thought we'd get there!!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
finally reached Simikot at about 1500, with tired gait but huge relief on our
faces...a big trek safely completed by all.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
few cold Tuborgs and a good dinner settled us in for our night in the Nepal
Trust Guesthouse, very basic but better than a tent! But we're now back in a
town, and the night had the usual cacophony of barking dogs, hee-hawing donkeys
and the army bugler at 0500. Ho hum...</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXj126bOu-KNLNthJVdiInFxrgmzA_398yzvb15_Dfp9QDy1xoa0GuUmVPLZO_nR-uRJyUb0cCeTv1YtsjMG85Po3OXJLrQiscBwCG1_Z5JaqxYS-0ia3YhQ6qFlMLMaPBrsommQ/s1600/P1080389.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXj126bOu-KNLNthJVdiInFxrgmzA_398yzvb15_Dfp9QDy1xoa0GuUmVPLZO_nR-uRJyUb0cCeTv1YtsjMG85Po3OXJLrQiscBwCG1_Z5JaqxYS-0ia3YhQ6qFlMLMaPBrsommQ/s400/P1080389.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tired feet and bodies, and waiting for a cold beer to arrive!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5IFgxU2GiomzYUV4QB_24zus-Qxj2dbPeKxIfDJTJhebRwCL4F2X17quAGCYEjLhZ8uBtAMhJVC-y-T3Gd1JOeD4v49tyOinrmXDRB8PYVaIVnZf_5Mv_rbclQKGVA6nZkGptyg/s1600/P1080390.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5IFgxU2GiomzYUV4QB_24zus-Qxj2dbPeKxIfDJTJhebRwCL4F2X17quAGCYEjLhZ8uBtAMhJVC-y-T3Gd1JOeD4v49tyOinrmXDRB8PYVaIVnZf_5Mv_rbclQKGVA6nZkGptyg/s400/P1080390.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBObkRKd_QAilO2CKDjiRcujZmnbNNN0uv_a5qjK6H4brvM9tLoL7hL7-Ly0Qt4Tgi5z7xEk5E8dhqwmKzGdMNb2BYC0ngmHCqomJsE_f1aaQGQIgru5_77kr-aw9rcP_LfHZr0w/s1600/P1080396.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBObkRKd_QAilO2CKDjiRcujZmnbNNN0uv_a5qjK6H4brvM9tLoL7hL7-Ly0Qt4Tgi5z7xEk5E8dhqwmKzGdMNb2BYC0ngmHCqomJsE_f1aaQGQIgru5_77kr-aw9rcP_LfHZr0w/s400/P1080396.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Saying thanks to our trekking team</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyeNGb0DdTAT89LdpIorc072yCza4nTiRcQfImALz4B9lp9_AurzxDkw8avkh6nxDy3JLHvStsypRpH3j2V8TYYnt1xao1vNhyphenhyphenUvbBR2ByXwTqn_gYQoPHAmDxb2RIlz_YEy0qEQ/s1600/P1080398.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyeNGb0DdTAT89LdpIorc072yCza4nTiRcQfImALz4B9lp9_AurzxDkw8avkh6nxDy3JLHvStsypRpH3j2V8TYYnt1xao1vNhyphenhyphenUvbBR2ByXwTqn_gYQoPHAmDxb2RIlz_YEy0qEQ/s400/P1080398.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9hvJ1RPN0Orl9GR0UCNtwVwoRt5ZSobC-kR9VPDpM6VV8qpSXLjvuznrfaZX1py9HXY5Rv45wRnt3TqdAuAhvKHNPt2qv7WN8EsuUHmg09_w9sAd9CGZMbTLNMm5r89RqCIM_Ng/s1600/P1080399.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9hvJ1RPN0Orl9GR0UCNtwVwoRt5ZSobC-kR9VPDpM6VV8qpSXLjvuznrfaZX1py9HXY5Rv45wRnt3TqdAuAhvKHNPt2qv7WN8EsuUHmg09_w9sAd9CGZMbTLNMm5r89RqCIM_Ng/s400/P1080399.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Tuesday
19 June</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Up
early, good weather up here at Simikot, and expectant of an early flight back
down to Nepalgunj and onwards to Kathmandu.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX6mnzoekopzVvCH_3AbrEvCWr6byfXPnyseCVtA0iTlYG0twaBMBRDKA_xf34gKCkK-ehe_qX6PjJhHnCo15XrRfuixlTyDobfDbYqRQNm5XVDHMO6HglWqb0HfhBksK5XVeAdg/s1600/P1080401.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX6mnzoekopzVvCH_3AbrEvCWr6byfXPnyseCVtA0iTlYG0twaBMBRDKA_xf34gKCkK-ehe_qX6PjJhHnCo15XrRfuixlTyDobfDbYqRQNm5XVDHMO6HglWqb0HfhBksK5XVeAdg/s400/P1080401.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waiting for the flight...but the plane didn't arrive due to bad weather</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG3WMYmj2EvzAIXzD7QZpTJVc0MtOXUuilghW7RH5BGBUJYWXp74o0tMQsSXhii4PWYx5tMZ7rvWi-8Ck5bgQqjKwkCkK7Ab2HKHqmWeWdkAELh84-ws0veguIiU6YyibsurD0qg/s1600/P1080404.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG3WMYmj2EvzAIXzD7QZpTJVc0MtOXUuilghW7RH5BGBUJYWXp74o0tMQsSXhii4PWYx5tMZ7rvWi-8Ck5bgQqjKwkCkK7Ab2HKHqmWeWdkAELh84-ws0veguIiU6YyibsurD0qg/s400/P1080404.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">However,
four hours later we were dragging our luggage back up to the Nepal Trust
Guesthouse. No flights today. There's bad weather in the valleys to the south
of us, and clear visibility is essential for the fixed wing aircraft that ply
their trade on this route.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">So,
a lazy day, reviewing photos taken over the recent trek, checking out the town,
and generally wondering whether we'll get out of Simikot tomorrow.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Simikot
is quite big once you start exploring it. The women here are usually adorned
with nose rings, sometimes combined with other nose piercings, and huge gold
earrings are the vogue. The men often wear the normal Nepali 'fez' type hat,
and a few were observed drunk as we walked in search of treats like Coke and,
for me, salty crisps! There's a lot of liquor stores in the town, so rather
like Sikkim, I guess that alcoholism is an issue up here.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
increased our chances of getting back to Kathmandu by provisionally booking a
helicopter to get the six of us down to Neplagunj in the event that fixed wing
don't fly tomorrow either. A bargain at $4000 between us :-(</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGkshgCgOKSPLsZYzCzdHwyCWE5lrEqrGuTNnN_N5Qu3zALStRnLnXPukWjkd9gUwTxo7rwtDTzVftF05suJs0ZxnfBWfieqmIeWeIHCPTLvbCnDsE23M6qxBhsasisIF0_LMsaA/s1600/P1080411.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGkshgCgOKSPLsZYzCzdHwyCWE5lrEqrGuTNnN_N5Qu3zALStRnLnXPukWjkd9gUwTxo7rwtDTzVftF05suJs0ZxnfBWfieqmIeWeIHCPTLvbCnDsE23M6qxBhsasisIF0_LMsaA/s400/P1080411.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This might be our transport tomorrow...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Wednesday
20 June</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Another
disturbed night with dogs barking most of the time. And a big change in the
weather today. Low cloud and persistent light rain. Well, at least we don't
have to trek in it! Whether we get out of Simikot today remains uncertain as I
write this at 0550!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Update
1330: we're now in Nepalgunj. The skies miraculously cleared and we were able
to cancel the helicopter and save ourselves loads of dosh! </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Simikot
airport suddenly became the busiest airport in the world when the skies
cleared. Wealthy Indians who had been flown down from Hilsa on the Tibetan
border by helicopter having done their once in a lifetime pilgrimage to Kailas
(the Chinese seem very happy to accommodate Indian nationals...shame about the
rest of us....grrhh...) loaded themselves on to single engine light aircraft
(rather them than me!), assorted Nepali traders loaded themselves and bags of
unknown commodities on to ageing Sita planes, and then, much to the glee of our
team, the Tara Air Twin Otter appeared in the sky, and we were swiftly away
over stunning landscapes southwards to the arid Nepali/Indian border, a flight
of about forty minutes.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHWpJ5_eSgKQo7cgukRe2nQEnZnf5TlKbR5ATU_s0EyCGq_X7TU8YL1HXgTPQubS254AO5qPbjyZ0TsygODe8uXjuUnAjvw7TKUmOa65EfPUBVeOPfElPNV24cWkdHUkJyChPAzA/s1600/P1080419.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHWpJ5_eSgKQo7cgukRe2nQEnZnf5TlKbR5ATU_s0EyCGq_X7TU8YL1HXgTPQubS254AO5qPbjyZ0TsygODe8uXjuUnAjvw7TKUmOa65EfPUBVeOPfElPNV24cWkdHUkJyChPAzA/s400/P1080419.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The weather improves, and six happy lads get their flight to Nepalgunj</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvZVbt4_sWBEk-vzn7QkwXIsmIuP9pZbsYdg_CYYBzZ0R7n_B9395o04dBslqVREFHVKLun-a109To4KeaQ2DrGLqlWGxGDNfBHXJDPLx0PaGv_Gm49H8R5cJU9xme3zfnmZch_g/s1600/P1080437.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvZVbt4_sWBEk-vzn7QkwXIsmIuP9pZbsYdg_CYYBzZ0R7n_B9395o04dBslqVREFHVKLun-a109To4KeaQ2DrGLqlWGxGDNfBHXJDPLx0PaGv_Gm49H8R5cJU9xme3zfnmZch_g/s400/P1080437.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Neplagunj
is HOT...so this blog is being written in the air conditioned bar of the Hotel
Sneha, still under refurbishment but with friendly service, good food, chilled
Nepal Ice :-) and adequate air con. We'll transfer later today and hopefully be
in Kathmandu before nightfall.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Thursday
21 June</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Three
of the team got away to Kathmandu last night, leaving the other half of the
lads overnighting in the Hotel Sneha again. Good food, a couple of beers were
great but a long hot night had to be endured with very noisy air con and
ceiling fan.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Another
two lads got away on a stand-by basis on Yeti Air at 0930, so guess what? Yep,
yours truly is back at the bloody hotel again, Billy No Mates, waiting for the
1545 flight later. Hope nothing screws that up!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Well,
fortunately it didn't! The end of expedition dinner at the Third Eye in Thamel
beckons :-)</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>HUMLA - Summary</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
Humla Circuit looks easy on a map. Especially when the scale is 1:150,000.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">But
it's not to be undertaken lightly.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Just
getting to the start point requires two small aircraft to get you there. The
sense of isolation is immediate.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">At
Simikot you are four days walk from the nearest road head. The airport is famed
for its closure due to bad weather in the valley systems to the south. The
folks in Simikot drink a lot and the ladies of the town are uniquely adorned
with nose rings and heavy gold earrings.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Then
the trekking starts. Into the mighty chasm of the Karnali River valley. For
three days of huge ascents and descents as you wind your way around the many
spurs and adjoining valleys. Then the pass before you sight Tibet for the first
time. A lot of effort, up and then, down, down and down some more. The
landscape becomes harsher. No more the verdant terraces of barley and mustard,
no more cooling pine forests. Harsh, barren rockscapes, and the
Tibetan border, temptingly visible across a small suspension bridge.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Never
before had the sense of isolation been felt more keenly. Until...</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">...the
start of the Limi Valley section of the trek. The position of the Tibetan
border precludes an easy start. It's up a long section of steep unstable scree.
It screams 'if you want access, you'll have to work for it'. But once on the
trail eastwards you're on a high level traverse, not a place for folks with
vertigo, with awesome scale all around you. Two days of this and you've earned
your spurs. Suddenly villages start to appear. People make a real effort to
meet up with you. Gone is Nepali, here is the Tibet that the Chinese are trying
to subjugate just over the border. Traditional fur, yak wool and goatskin garb,
gompas and meditation caves dating back over 1,000 years, fields ploughed with
wooden tools harnessed to ponies, and the resonance of mantra and chant in
recognition of great lamas of the past.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Then
the real work begins. High pass after high pass. Huge descents. River crossings
on our two resilient ponies. Face scarves drawn up against the wind and the
dust. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Then,
finally, after you think you've done all the work, another 'little bit up' in
Nepali parlance. And then Simikot, a flight delay of twenty four hours, and the
triumphal return to civilisation. What an experience. Unforgettable. Almost
unique, especially when we were told that only three foreigners had passed
through the Limi Valley before us this year.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">So,
over to you...take your choice. But like so many other places in the precious
environs of the Himalaya, go soon. As I speak workers are creating new roads
into the region, many hand hewn, so progress will be slow, but like all things
in our modern world, it's relentless, and new trading routes, mainly into
Tibet, are opening up and releasing modernity into this sublimely unspoilt
region.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
have been a lucky bunch of guys to have witnessed the last vestiges of the old
world. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US">Simple, sustainable, surreal.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-weight: bold;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1" style="font-weight: bold;">
<br /></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9888425.post-61554670904766970762012-06-25T16:48:00.000+00:002012-07-19T06:47:16.654+00:00Jomsom Trail & Mustang, Nepal 2012<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglvfbC_LoNBv_rGTIX7JiZ9_DujTQpwVPf60TrGILxGHp4Tv_k6MlZWOqrjQ-zEAyqx3a2s8fSNWQ8SW2-uEkne9tBfSY86KwEB7qgcG0sYkx0ao8ftyNkmt4Hs_aGfPhNwIUcyQ/s1600/P1070415.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglvfbC_LoNBv_rGTIX7JiZ9_DujTQpwVPf60TrGILxGHp4Tv_k6MlZWOqrjQ-zEAyqx3a2s8fSNWQ8SW2-uEkne9tBfSY86KwEB7qgcG0sYkx0ao8ftyNkmt4Hs_aGfPhNwIUcyQ/s640/P1070415.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="Body1">
This trip had originally been intended as a long journey through Tibet, trekking back into Nepal via the remote Limi Valley. However, at the last minute, the Chinese authorities changed the conditions for entry into Tibet, so a hasty redesign of our plans took place, with half our team going to Everest Base Camp and Bhutan, whilst three of us took off to explore the hidden kingdom of Mustang. Here's our story...</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b><br /></b></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8He82yCE5D4kg0hlyGJkvHx7A3zLCLBN72aMbuQ5Zu-x4qflp6CvjkV_I9RoiBLwPDClk7cMLul4qeFAkcyxqcPBypJLBTLOtS_q-Qe8TkUeD0aDLwtwHZGwzSlx_eCEDr8rpbg/s1600/P1050959.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8He82yCE5D4kg0hlyGJkvHx7A3zLCLBN72aMbuQ5Zu-x4qflp6CvjkV_I9RoiBLwPDClk7cMLul4qeFAkcyxqcPBypJLBTLOtS_q-Qe8TkUeD0aDLwtwHZGwzSlx_eCEDr8rpbg/s400/P1050959.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhCIp7rQ3UfC8SOr-x78JfTnSkBnhQID3ArNiyLvXkNJUwrEmWq11WTXZMhFN_QgDkJX9fru55fpdjUBwXtE9bniaUOBbbXIeVbAsDmpLBbpMQH8n2qoeH7Wcu6USLijEB7z7Lmw/s1600/P1050976.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhCIp7rQ3UfC8SOr-x78JfTnSkBnhQID3ArNiyLvXkNJUwrEmWq11WTXZMhFN_QgDkJX9fru55fpdjUBwXtE9bniaUOBbbXIeVbAsDmpLBbpMQH8n2qoeH7Wcu6USLijEB7z7Lmw/s400/P1050976.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg976rYQL4ussEJ5KfOMXDJuGsoGByjx4uba_hWNZsWM8CA3S0hqFRPBnLl0W43ZNBVmJ5ZxxGbn7K2eOcDpON6rol7iK_rx5p0heQRbeBVFaeH7r6wu36j20AxQ2fj9fxbI4IgIA/s1600/P1050981.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg976rYQL4ussEJ5KfOMXDJuGsoGByjx4uba_hWNZsWM8CA3S0hqFRPBnLl0W43ZNBVmJ5ZxxGbn7K2eOcDpON6rol7iK_rx5p0heQRbeBVFaeH7r6wu36j20AxQ2fj9fxbI4IgIA/s640/P1050981.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">John, Bob, Cadi, David, Colin, Richard & Ralph</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcQLN5Y8fi4kjy4en1dsXpYQqxcPbLtgh-Mwh3InYoVZ5rgtULYcAiOpz0MS_taGzecw3sFHZasBOv5iP0sNxcS-NQiRhDWu-LwSBEUVHoWSF7UHjN1U6cBQ3ybOp_KRjvD-gimQ/s1600/P1050984.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcQLN5Y8fi4kjy4en1dsXpYQqxcPbLtgh-Mwh3InYoVZ5rgtULYcAiOpz0MS_taGzecw3sFHZasBOv5iP0sNxcS-NQiRhDWu-LwSBEUVHoWSF7UHjN1U6cBQ3ybOp_KRjvD-gimQ/s400/P1050984.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6u1SEAZSBw04qjqIzuOqqd1ym527dPYxYLTJvwNB7i7G4SI1xx8icYdtRHieXDWVAL8CnZgA02ZmhR2EfsCA4uu0kVZ7Pssw64InK6dPQQ54yGCTEfvmXcGxH2aa-WWF3qxiGJA/s1600/P1050987.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6u1SEAZSBw04qjqIzuOqqd1ym527dPYxYLTJvwNB7i7G4SI1xx8icYdtRHieXDWVAL8CnZgA02ZmhR2EfsCA4uu0kVZ7Pssw64InK6dPQQ54yGCTEfvmXcGxH2aa-WWF3qxiGJA/s400/P1050987.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some sightseeing at Swayambunath, the 'Monkey Temple', Kathmandu before the start of trekking</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b><br /></b></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US">There is a 15 minute video of our trek on YouTube at<b> </b></span><a href="http://youtu.be/_CDKEeAynT8">http://youtu.be/_CDKEeAynT8</a><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Friday
18 May</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
Everest team set off for the airport at 0530 to catch the first flight up to
Lukla. Happily, once we arrived at the airport at about 0730 they were nowhere
to be seen, so they had managed to get up to the trail start on this
notoriously weather prone route. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWDqxZooSHQmSTySpi4sjwBIyudpqWnO0HAl93bdL7-2Py87eACY9sD1iWZsgIguMfNpgRYVVb_4OmL3vRU4_n3mnt1TY-tQ2WoQOk-rVvbInFbUyomGO2DWcBCUoLSFPSQNqPTg/s1600/P1050992.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWDqxZooSHQmSTySpi4sjwBIyudpqWnO0HAl93bdL7-2Py87eACY9sD1iWZsgIguMfNpgRYVVb_4OmL3vRU4_n3mnt1TY-tQ2WoQOk-rVvbInFbUyomGO2DWcBCUoLSFPSQNqPTg/s400/P1050992.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arrival in Pokhara</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Our
flight, on Buddha Air, to Pokhara, took 30 minutes and once above the haze
build up in the terraced valleys below, we had a good view of Manaslu,
something over 8000m, gazing down on our plane as we powered westwards.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">It
was hot in Pokhara, but not too humid, and we were quickly loaded on to a
minibus for the 90 minutes drive through Pokhara and our trailhead at the small
hamlet of Nayapul. The roads, again, were empty of normal traffic due to
another strike, but that was good news for us as we sped out of town,
negotiating remnants of yesterday's road blocks before reaching good roads
through the open country, with fields of maze flourishing and paddy fields
being ploughed by oxen in readiness for the planting of rice ahead of the monsoon.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg92MELNoW15tySxdwgCvcb3UQeAqfOn2mc9Pe8IXczSIW_-o_-NcbewnTwHa4d6OYzSQTrf7BAfzWO9ytgDaxKCJuc9Alng-7jAwPmXqotRBLfesag1vakpopMfVvKlfjdfV12yQ/s1600/P1050997.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg92MELNoW15tySxdwgCvcb3UQeAqfOn2mc9Pe8IXczSIW_-o_-NcbewnTwHa4d6OYzSQTrf7BAfzWO9ytgDaxKCJuc9Alng-7jAwPmXqotRBLfesag1vakpopMfVvKlfjdfV12yQ/s400/P1050997.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Start point for the Jomsom Trail at Nayapul</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
gained height through the village of Naudanda and were rewarded with a view of
Annupurna South and Annapurna 1, the summit snows lording it over the extensive
foothills. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">From
Nayapul at 1070m we slowly worked our way up the valley of the Modi Khola, the
main river draining from the Annapurna Sanctuary. Plenty of guest houses and
spots to buy food and drink and we took an early lunch in Bhiretanti, a simple
meal of fried noodles, which fuelled us for the trek along the wide path
northwards, now in fact a rough road upon which jeep taxis ply their trade.
Huge stands of bamboo, banana trees, maize fields reflected the heat in the
next valley, the Burungdhi Khola, with the humidity slowly increasing as the
day progressed which made walking a somewhat sweaty affair. </span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLFCFU1NvtysPCSDdEuuWfduJ4NcW6Pz38Cxls73RPH44CoUQ7rNiM8pctyxbEUYdwtDmQoMmKIBeTMJRS-fpBJ5M4-fxADsR6aYFpiuZAmU9rneU2GS4m7ZRqyAvMBbLV1kij_Q/s1600/P1060012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLFCFU1NvtysPCSDdEuuWfduJ4NcW6Pz38Cxls73RPH44CoUQ7rNiM8pctyxbEUYdwtDmQoMmKIBeTMJRS-fpBJ5M4-fxADsR6aYFpiuZAmU9rneU2GS4m7ZRqyAvMBbLV1kij_Q/s640/P1060012.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO50YdfPmyaipsUI84Yvnrwkz3EFX7hmqUawmT4qm0UNsIBmdSDS3h6UicwaAlzV-yF7x5kvWfijy1kIt7_5HONfwRzklmYEqnnk_BwmZr9M2LNumoKClqWEF2ZO3yAhJ01B-u7g/s1600/P1060010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO50YdfPmyaipsUI84Yvnrwkz3EFX7hmqUawmT4qm0UNsIBmdSDS3h6UicwaAlzV-yF7x5kvWfijy1kIt7_5HONfwRzklmYEqnnk_BwmZr9M2LNumoKClqWEF2ZO3yAhJ01B-u7g/s400/P1060010.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">By about 1600,
after numerous but easy ascents and descents, we arrived at our guesthouse for
the night, in the small hamlet of Tikhedhungga at 1520m. The Chandra
Guesthouse, situated high on the richly vegetated valley side, sheltered us just
in time from a heavy shower. An atmospheric spot, with the thunder rattling
around in the surrounding hills.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Shower,
beer, blog. Probably the pattern for the next few days!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHx27rcwZJRqBTpph7rTkB9EVfQ_keSPy6FebVH0omOfrcRc9bIAGnEuIGBw_KHGXGPKXNRksRW6kvT-fBpLgINDEMl6qq_gDwCaZk5aFy3ejNfYiKTBh-wQ1TgosXeT4semFGkQ/s1600/P1060019.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHx27rcwZJRqBTpph7rTkB9EVfQ_keSPy6FebVH0omOfrcRc9bIAGnEuIGBw_KHGXGPKXNRksRW6kvT-fBpLgINDEMl6qq_gDwCaZk5aFy3ejNfYiKTBh-wQ1TgosXeT4semFGkQ/s400/P1060019.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Saturday
19 May</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
longer day beckons today, starting with a 500-600m climb up relatively steep
steps (the Lonely Planet authors obviously employed someone to count them...a
mere 3300 steps) to reach the forests above Ulleri (2020m). Great views back
down the valley of Bhurungdi Khola, and fine views of Annapurna South 7219 m
and its close neighbour Hiun Chuli 6434m, both snow capped peaks spearing into
the bright blue early morning sky. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJhbizlTEPxUQVrJpeFgweot-tesKqK_YJama1fEz5x3jZvr0M97X9tRKN_g9F1jMGSDwnQ7ePQMUc4O_7P6jAHgtxg2W4CngBKTz6j9QGyEjRN7Qzd2UdvzhmSgWuiRNyGuyurQ/s1600/P1060020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJhbizlTEPxUQVrJpeFgweot-tesKqK_YJama1fEz5x3jZvr0M97X9tRKN_g9F1jMGSDwnQ7ePQMUc4O_7P6jAHgtxg2W4CngBKTz6j9QGyEjRN7Qzd2UdvzhmSgWuiRNyGuyurQ/s640/P1060020.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii9ncqxbdCgHhaygW2Cg9iI3PLJF3QNwY3GHEbEbxG5q65CE4X6NoJlfETzRlxxFKgDIUVhN7e8GQ7UHgxaVw8KPKMiW5ntYSS79ANPbkdmwk1mLg_h_fRlWq-lIwn7UcoborQSA/s1600/P1060022.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii9ncqxbdCgHhaygW2Cg9iI3PLJF3QNwY3GHEbEbxG5q65CE4X6NoJlfETzRlxxFKgDIUVhN7e8GQ7UHgxaVw8KPKMiW5ntYSS79ANPbkdmwk1mLg_h_fRlWq-lIwn7UcoborQSA/s640/P1060022.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieM82b2Gnzko3p0NXAfVaiyAMNNgEXczO6wAAFQCX8ppk-n6qpWQ7FCDRUYK7C4Oz0O_vCFgxBIk9F0m6iwRmG3MGBBDpOwOzME7JstzNosFE5BNJGVSaVwhw-H6stNdqTfxJ02g/s1600/P1060024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieM82b2Gnzko3p0NXAfVaiyAMNNgEXczO6wAAFQCX8ppk-n6qpWQ7FCDRUYK7C4Oz0O_vCFgxBIk9F0m6iwRmG3MGBBDpOwOzME7JstzNosFE5BNJGVSaVwhw-H6stNdqTfxJ02g/s400/P1060024.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSg-Uc08tEmUBBHDlGm2vis1zCzsjtqdIQFX8dVfSYul-ViVHbamgemkgy-m5rYVagc-zZriUoZTPOXihk8ry7K7Q_O7zbzvQxt0hb_5xoRf7XreNeb3agd_3VPR7CjssJlcD-7w/s1600/P1060027.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSg-Uc08tEmUBBHDlGm2vis1zCzsjtqdIQFX8dVfSYul-ViVHbamgemkgy-m5rYVagc-zZriUoZTPOXihk8ry7K7Q_O7zbzvQxt0hb_5xoRf7XreNeb3agd_3VPR7CjssJlcD-7w/s640/P1060027.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUA7e8o-5bd1o1w4fvcKoBOQPSkL4WAjIPlazrM8kfgKNwJMku9waWKlv0LJghOWlZ3KXRLrR5JC5v4OrRKG8LWc-K-SP9JI_cEvfneuyVPnpTxCXEEM7O4OfxFdSO6RsYgAEmKw/s1600/P1060028.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUA7e8o-5bd1o1w4fvcKoBOQPSkL4WAjIPlazrM8kfgKNwJMku9waWKlv0LJghOWlZ3KXRLrR5JC5v4OrRKG8LWc-K-SP9JI_cEvfneuyVPnpTxCXEEM7O4OfxFdSO6RsYgAEmKw/s400/P1060028.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
had left Tikhedungga at 0645 to get the early morning visibility, and later in
the walk, up above the hamlet of Ban Thanti (2210m), we were able to get a view
of the twin peaks of Machhuapuchhre (otherwise known as Fish Tail) 6997m, which
is still unclimbed. A wonderful spectacle above the deeply forested slopes of
the intervening valleys. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQGSVTANRsuQmlptHkOrN7Adu26kBqkl3towdQp-9AP69nKj20_QmTZM7k7HVjCJnzAy_BSrKYd5EdZwYNRrKk02GcIn8HBYc2rXm9DorsZeZ19_k_jexV7YLKkTkAz9oRnmbSVA/s1600/P1060039.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQGSVTANRsuQmlptHkOrN7Adu26kBqkl3towdQp-9AP69nKj20_QmTZM7k7HVjCJnzAy_BSrKYd5EdZwYNRrKk02GcIn8HBYc2rXm9DorsZeZ19_k_jexV7YLKkTkAz9oRnmbSVA/s400/P1060039.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLdiZS5KjP7CBsfcAEjqAD4_EQeHqaHJ6jnlPDlCzA1tbV9W4esju5Td0DtBPkBz16hOU6WoUwTy_ncLunqi9igZtOWBZxRE6atswlbjnsSxSiPSJzV1OuAGwFZsKuaZCXzXgK2w/s1600/P1060061.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLdiZS5KjP7CBsfcAEjqAD4_EQeHqaHJ6jnlPDlCzA1tbV9W4esju5Td0DtBPkBz16hOU6WoUwTy_ncLunqi9igZtOWBZxRE6atswlbjnsSxSiPSJzV1OuAGwFZsKuaZCXzXgK2w/s400/P1060061.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Machhuapuchhre 6997m</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
good path, rocky in places, but very straightforward trekking today, with
steady height gain without too much effort after the initial pull to Ulleri.
The trail passes through extensive rhododendron forest after Ban Thanti, a very
pleasant walk except for pesky flies in the rising heat of the day. The rhododendron
trees are huge, but we had missed the flowering season by about a month. A nice
lunch at Nangge Thanti (2210m) followed, and that left us with a stroll of just
under two hours to climb the final 400m to Ghorepani (2860m). As with the
previous day, the cloud quickly built up in the mid afternoon, and we were
accompanied by thunder for an hour or so, and about 20 minutes after we had
settled in to our rooms the rain started again. Good timing!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih7i_O3-NsBvygJNAkq6kx3bVdZ-h9IJoHe6IS5kAGIp_XgLTmPGmK3C0nlqScahgEovEc1htKi8Tu3Ezv1P5LKJ_Cfe9BH6TQ5FkT7M4sm9ZveramrGP7UPdoHZE0VcWq2j_wig/s1600/P1060098.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih7i_O3-NsBvygJNAkq6kx3bVdZ-h9IJoHe6IS5kAGIp_XgLTmPGmK3C0nlqScahgEovEc1htKi8Tu3Ezv1P5LKJ_Cfe9BH6TQ5FkT7M4sm9ZveramrGP7UPdoHZE0VcWq2j_wig/s400/P1060098.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">This
was a typical trek day on very good paths, one to ease us into the longer days
ahead. The guesthouse was very comfortable, even with an en suite shower and
toilet, very luxurious compared to my last trek in Nepal ten years ago,
although the facilities are still quite basic. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
storm cleared quite quickly and our reward was a fine rainbow below us in the
valley underneath Annapurna South. Early to bed for a very early start
tomorrow...</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Sunday
20 May</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
knock on the door at 0430 confirmed that clear skies were the order of the day,
and that presaged a 400m climb up Poon Hill 3210m, starting 15 minutes later.
This is a classic tourist trail, the prize a superb vista that takes in the
Annapurna range to the east and the Dhaulagiri ranges to the west, both
resplendent as the sun rose into a clear blue sky. The guidebook time is about
one hour to the summit, and I'm happy to report that the three souls in our
little group all beat that. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Of
course, we didn't have the summit to ourselves, but the view was truly
magnificent, with Dhaulagiri 8167m getting the first of the sun's rays, and
then the sun rising behind Machhuapuchhre, sun beams projecting laser-like into
the sky above it as the long sunrise unfolded in front of us. </span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjHrTyS6RP2ujQ-PlS1JbeFckn3K0CXEX4WEjubESjLjP3r6dYefuKpfERB0xPjWoZsOrlUJsAWUSAS4C1KxkgcKLFupL8yoV1S89WuFoOkrN-sxc3CXpws-3QBQ3ZIpJNV74Xbg/s1600/P1060117.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjHrTyS6RP2ujQ-PlS1JbeFckn3K0CXEX4WEjubESjLjP3r6dYefuKpfERB0xPjWoZsOrlUJsAWUSAS4C1KxkgcKLFupL8yoV1S89WuFoOkrN-sxc3CXpws-3QBQ3ZIpJNV74Xbg/s400/P1060117.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dhaulagiri</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxpvpRNaZ7_W6Ftg9DHjdI632TWr525BqMTPaAK80zkFriAVV1S5Ss5Fu5mgAknSvvyenJ20hgLXb-BjXhRQGju47RkdQqtbnBWbbBw1zJD5Zkfa1Ns1MbbVWop3CUbObx2hl7nw/s1600/P1060121.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxpvpRNaZ7_W6Ftg9DHjdI632TWr525BqMTPaAK80zkFriAVV1S5Ss5Fu5mgAknSvvyenJ20hgLXb-BjXhRQGju47RkdQqtbnBWbbBw1zJD5Zkfa1Ns1MbbVWop3CUbObx2hl7nw/s400/P1060121.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Annapurna South & Machhuapuchhre</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnGBTyITMeWds6P_ImNSLWfqw6LXmD7rWL7HlyvUL0DlLTvVI5XBpWFlyMN1csTBrEB_8BgOFPDHhUU4d1wEgQm_TtsjTE8gUZV8hRKWaK6FomCdEJUKimrSN9i1PoSsSbgLV9UA/s1600/P1060132.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnGBTyITMeWds6P_ImNSLWfqw6LXmD7rWL7HlyvUL0DlLTvVI5XBpWFlyMN1csTBrEB_8BgOFPDHhUU4d1wEgQm_TtsjTE8gUZV8hRKWaK6FomCdEJUKimrSN9i1PoSsSbgLV9UA/s400/P1060132.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The lads on Poon Hill 3210m</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">There were many
fine peaks in view: Dhaulagiri and Dhaulagiri II, the sharp point of Tukuche 6920
m to the northwest, then the deep defile of the Kali Gandaki valley (said to be
the deepest valley it the world, with summit heights bordering it rising to
above 8000m and the river bed at about 2000m). Further to the east we could
glimpse Nilgiri South 6839m, Annapurna I peeping behind Annapurna South, and,
of course, Machhuapuchhre. Absolutely splendid. Half an hour on top, umpteen
photographs taken, and then a sustained descent back to our guesthouse, the
well-positioned 'Nice Viewpoint Lodge' (great views to Dhaulagiri) for a great
breakfast of pancakes and egg.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
were to start our long descent at about 0740, and it was already hot in the
brilliant sunshine. We headed north, bound for Tatopani some 7-8 hours away,
most of the route a sustained descent of some 1670m, a big drop by anyone's
standards. Add this to the descent from Poon Hill earlier, that made for a
total drop of 2020m for the day...bloody hard work on the knees!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ2gUY2X9QM4e0_kzd546W3xSlf0y_yF7ypxvmCuHH-b0G1i8ZYiYLIR_21wJYr5JPPCmgp6D7nm_EstnTAKEiSsM27sFF5tedWt53rmM4n8fFzA6NMYdXEB3zG0veo_mOXPXM-Q/s1600/P1060155.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="350" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ2gUY2X9QM4e0_kzd546W3xSlf0y_yF7ypxvmCuHH-b0G1i8ZYiYLIR_21wJYr5JPPCmgp6D7nm_EstnTAKEiSsM27sFF5tedWt53rmM4n8fFzA6NMYdXEB3zG0veo_mOXPXM-Q/s400/P1060155.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dhaulagiri</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRyzn2hbhc4DUWOKWhO8PPFKDi60UR1318mRhX083dcSxUMQVi3nnTx63Bi5ix5MlVhVlcFj6YrWNlsVxDRJuxBV7-bSFU62_Z-NVfePVYcuFhK-YbRJastYqOZ0JpVNr9leoKTg/s1600/P1060169.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRyzn2hbhc4DUWOKWhO8PPFKDi60UR1318mRhX083dcSxUMQVi3nnTx63Bi5ix5MlVhVlcFj6YrWNlsVxDRJuxBV7-bSFU62_Z-NVfePVYcuFhK-YbRJastYqOZ0JpVNr9leoKTg/s400/P1060169.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Annapurna's from the west</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIYlwOf36LCf6Lwz82P0apy4nSMkaMChKp50VZ34puIYTU1YAh0wF1JBeXmenD7_I60fParqXkVJ6SHppRRcgqzbY-TqJdw7l1trCvqQaujsiJu6QWfysbO7tLOKbIVq-qp8OPTA/s1600/P1060177.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIYlwOf36LCf6Lwz82P0apy4nSMkaMChKp50VZ34puIYTU1YAh0wF1JBeXmenD7_I60fParqXkVJ6SHppRRcgqzbY-TqJdw7l1trCvqQaujsiJu6QWfysbO7tLOKbIVq-qp8OPTA/s400/P1060177.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwtZeh3dF3OqbWLiR7hM5VBiTRQSBIlYpPwW_C_S485uB4hzk9qBx0G9AtQfuPfFYpM3UeXj3BxX3Qt80O2wwN-VqoZtkzGSswpKP29fC56ok7b-dJghn3xJkRlfemqr6Utnjx9w/s1600/P1060179.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwtZeh3dF3OqbWLiR7hM5VBiTRQSBIlYpPwW_C_S485uB4hzk9qBx0G9AtQfuPfFYpM3UeXj3BxX3Qt80O2wwN-VqoZtkzGSswpKP29fC56ok7b-dJghn3xJkRlfemqr6Utnjx9w/s400/P1060179.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Large outcrops of mica on the long descent to Tatopani</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRIREL9n0UISQA-LnL15mKfyea-VbL3JBCbtE6CMHSeSVwywI87r6wZl5WP-kLmtfNfqSHiashf3fFBgURrMlDTpvkuTzERzmYyJtKkmv9Y7sreTxNE59s5hgVUbXDOs9U-rNhAA/s1600/P1060188.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRIREL9n0UISQA-LnL15mKfyea-VbL3JBCbtE6CMHSeSVwywI87r6wZl5WP-kLmtfNfqSHiashf3fFBgURrMlDTpvkuTzERzmYyJtKkmv9Y7sreTxNE59s5hgVUbXDOs9U-rNhAA/s400/P1060188.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI8U-sxZRkBEK6W0rNKWC4dW7wZYO9QbslHy3htn-M1tD4X3LjCzv3V_odN-F_pc5xhWmKWcrEUcFllHe1WFnprdm4Z1a6C61xvUz6TnFvk0gyfe3ABNvR7eUxsUyxTIyIpbrb6Q/s1600/P1060191.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI8U-sxZRkBEK6W0rNKWC4dW7wZYO9QbslHy3htn-M1tD4X3LjCzv3V_odN-F_pc5xhWmKWcrEUcFllHe1WFnprdm4Z1a6C61xvUz6TnFvk0gyfe3ABNvR7eUxsUyxTIyIpbrb6Q/s640/P1060191.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Down..., </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBlvrClBFbnm5xg49Z7QY3VoUlROLHc9SJya_fF5-QMovB6jYxyHourSz6mk9a_s7y-ynarvn8YSJvHU793D4IHIoJXEvC-uUyghV0QKbWJDj_o3OoDtz0rlPJ5u7QlLnDcKwfng/s1600/P1060194.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBlvrClBFbnm5xg49Z7QY3VoUlROLHc9SJya_fF5-QMovB6jYxyHourSz6mk9a_s7y-ynarvn8YSJvHU793D4IHIoJXEvC-uUyghV0QKbWJDj_o3OoDtz0rlPJ5u7QlLnDcKwfng/s400/P1060194.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...down..., </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA5-4I0NNAt2FOE4muj6u6o8In2qSdneNwJuiVUvbe5qWcHMYg-qLl1jyj21z0H2bhN5hcg2GYwvCsGWDVHt1A2VsVVRgl3emv6_-ay91VgyBbtjMXlPduddlO-Uij40t1UCYjFQ/s1600/P1060199.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA5-4I0NNAt2FOE4muj6u6o8In2qSdneNwJuiVUvbe5qWcHMYg-qLl1jyj21z0H2bhN5hcg2GYwvCsGWDVHt1A2VsVVRgl3emv6_-ay91VgyBbtjMXlPduddlO-Uij40t1UCYjFQ/s400/P1060199.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">... and more down!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
path was generally very good, some steep sections down through rhododendron and
magnolia forest, although many with steps constructed from local marble (this
would be a nightmare in the wet), some sections following a roughly hewn new
dirt road, and some interesting suspension bridge crossings. Cuckoos kept us
entertained as we passed by. The route passes through some interesting geology,
large outcrops of mica providing a silvery backdrop to one long section of our
walk. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">This
is a less commercialised section of the Jomsom Trail, and we passed through
terraced farmland, many small farmsteads with water buffalo and goats grazing,
women threshing cereal and drying vegetables, men sawing timber and disheveled
kids getting up to all sorts of mischief, one nearly braining me with a
catapulted stone originally intended for a bird...at least that's the story!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Our
companions on the trail for most of the day were three village dogs from
Ghorepani. They stuck close to us all day, very friendly, and occasionally
sheltered within us when approached by other village dogs and water buffalo defending
their calf, although only one pitched up in Tatopani, the other two having
found something else better to to do! Rather entertainingly, the last dog
baulked at crossing the long suspension bridge over the Kali Gandaki, made its
way down to a vehicular bridge lower down the valley, and miraculously caught
up with us.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">As
the day progressed the unrelenting descent continued and we skipped lunch
because most hostelries lacked any fresh food ingredients, this being the low
season. But the compensation was that we had the trail to ourselves...hardly
any other trekkers seen all day. The only downside was that the heat continued
to rise, quite probably 30 degrees plus, and we were very glad to reach our
destination, at about 1430, the nicely situated and welcoming Old Kamala
lodging, again with 'en suite' and a fine curry as a late lunch washed down
with a very palatable Nepali beer, Gorkha. Our dog was rewarded too...what
loyalty!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuSIUGORBMQ9tSUEv5q59JA9pM-mYIlziJzbmAZm4jT6T05X6qA9su16lxnPZFg94jqkMU0r2KLi7vVp9sKXJ-2pd383ATsWbC5Ai6iV68SI_SNlvAxTlSU2zr8drTqUlZI3z6iA/s1600/P1060206.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuSIUGORBMQ9tSUEv5q59JA9pM-mYIlziJzbmAZm4jT6T05X6qA9su16lxnPZFg94jqkMU0r2KLi7vVp9sKXJ-2pd383ATsWbC5Ai6iV68SI_SNlvAxTlSU2zr8drTqUlZI3z6iA/s400/P1060206.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tatopani</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHVDnbwvYK2fgqja6CczYm7v1ZNP6G7rykQCYqAt7ZZnb13ZrHhAc9D7gkIqnym7bL0BdfPwGbv0S4LOSyt2hYsybfU0p8B-YeTUdw-Nj1sLL1HTCzXelZ7k81YyZbFKjFbqKISw/s1600/P1060218.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHVDnbwvYK2fgqja6CczYm7v1ZNP6G7rykQCYqAt7ZZnb13ZrHhAc9D7gkIqnym7bL0BdfPwGbv0S4LOSyt2hYsybfU0p8B-YeTUdw-Nj1sLL1HTCzXelZ7k81YyZbFKjFbqKISw/s400/P1060218.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spot the peak...<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwGJwAEL2d2PWAWhtn_Iz8fT-EjTkNmeJvkQ3dlTWm_V3cVU3HB00MgyXb70tMGvvleyC8edTY1VBuQfmjkcvp9Cn5rSu3TzXce2Iqxych9Q8aA77G306qEgX26WosplEXYceGng/s1600/P1060225.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwGJwAEL2d2PWAWhtn_Iz8fT-EjTkNmeJvkQ3dlTWm_V3cVU3HB00MgyXb70tMGvvleyC8edTY1VBuQfmjkcvp9Cn5rSu3TzXce2Iqxych9Q8aA77G306qEgX26WosplEXYceGng/s400/P1060225.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tatopani</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
washing done (out to dry on power cables that festoon the balcony outside), the
roar of the Kali Gandaki next to us, a good night's sleep beckons...</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Note:
Tatopani means 'hot water' in Nepali, and this relates to some hot springs
below the village.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Monday
21 May</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
good night's rest, quite warm in the room and peaceful. Up fairly early again,
and on the trail at about 0645. Good views to the fine peak of Nilgiri South
6940m ahead of us. We passed out through Tatopani at 1190m, a pleasant enough
little village with friendly shopkeepers, and started up the new roughly hewn
road which has only just been constructed. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">This
area is very quiet at present, with the strikes (bandh) still on, and fewer and
fewer trekkers on the route now. We saw a few sadhus on the trail today, holy
men of the Hindu faith, making their way south from the pilgrimage site in
Muktinath, a spot we'll visit later on the trek out of Upper Mustang. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggbMci4vhRZVAOXeQY4Kk1vhAlexPHghXax68LRwfEktKG_TVmeS6HpABmCAVslftLcKwWJjgkTvjecVpe4LHu5OMSZ9QT9-AvsUnysfftTZZoUGHM4g2AHkoOoePTZunblbcWpQ/s1600/P1060228.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggbMci4vhRZVAOXeQY4Kk1vhAlexPHghXax68LRwfEktKG_TVmeS6HpABmCAVslftLcKwWJjgkTvjecVpe4LHu5OMSZ9QT9-AvsUnysfftTZZoUGHM4g2AHkoOoePTZunblbcWpQ/s400/P1060228.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJPLn_PQnIahF5rW5x3TlGhFxilhTG0mjqOUuFOWb1kxU7dt4YtO9if0CAjm9B8ekALGORkM2ObtEo17sIOMsytlkjud4GHRfUUGDNwPNBDGMcF0Wp9xJKKzJuo_IaK3EaPDpp-Q/s1600/P1060232.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJPLn_PQnIahF5rW5x3TlGhFxilhTG0mjqOUuFOWb1kxU7dt4YtO9if0CAjm9B8ekALGORkM2ObtEo17sIOMsytlkjud4GHRfUUGDNwPNBDGMcF0Wp9xJKKzJuo_IaK3EaPDpp-Q/s400/P1060232.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
eventually crossed the Kali Gandhaki river, fast flowing and full of glacial
debris, and headed up one of those fabulous undulating paths which take you
high up above the river, not exposed, but with some great views all around.
There was a lot of wild cannabis growing all around us, and quite a few water
buffalo grazing along the way as we passed through numerous farmsteads. </span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiouSccFnn7UEi-FSMXwxqTn5r6fo3-oZeVjedLBAK3arMxLoAENeIBv9d45_YgBn28U7sCME6gedpl_VpY8Nv2zp3obFig64NkaxMEeWjIUa0NHhq3HU3qNCpfgbRD3ijT3NMPdw/s1600/P1060247.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiouSccFnn7UEi-FSMXwxqTn5r6fo3-oZeVjedLBAK3arMxLoAENeIBv9d45_YgBn28U7sCME6gedpl_VpY8Nv2zp3obFig64NkaxMEeWjIUa0NHhq3HU3qNCpfgbRD3ijT3NMPdw/s400/P1060247.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wild cannabis in profusion!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI5hhsTE7f82hbOnE8QPHrIu4cSzRKq3ZDtHWNEwtH6nWt7GsZU__tEd_Ap36hi1mUoyeWmI7MH_LpEXuf5ByvgZsUIxvVlM5__F6cziwR6OY7isRO19xisudeF8T0lx7kDob7YQ/s1600/P1060251.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI5hhsTE7f82hbOnE8QPHrIu4cSzRKq3ZDtHWNEwtH6nWt7GsZU__tEd_Ap36hi1mUoyeWmI7MH_LpEXuf5ByvgZsUIxvVlM5__F6cziwR6OY7isRO19xisudeF8T0lx7kDob7YQ/s640/P1060251.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Vn68EwJH_xBbut657JdySIhyphenhyphenpG0Qyy_MMj1GmAp_hn9EIOiWsNltP7kKig06MWVbmrOEgJzMcA744CL4YqGvRkYP3Bz5Q2dsPxrPfHD4xthnXSUO059okucmbmFJ0FX7XMPtdw/s1600/P1060254.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Vn68EwJH_xBbut657JdySIhyphenhyphenpG0Qyy_MMj1GmAp_hn9EIOiWsNltP7kKig06MWVbmrOEgJzMcA744CL4YqGvRkYP3Bz5Q2dsPxrPfHD4xthnXSUO059okucmbmFJ0FX7XMPtdw/s640/P1060254.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our companion from Ghorepani to Ghasa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2htDAoVt-tQuoPre-idw_GbvV3z1VG8DC2qYJBdXkV0s7sKYXLRZ1GmtVFj4fUxb8yF9TffUAslGuc4D3BZk0-ibX74BOnezhernxbYES2X83WwvVweR-0bEjhmY1f9P8PHBEVA/s1600/P1060258.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2htDAoVt-tQuoPre-idw_GbvV3z1VG8DC2qYJBdXkV0s7sKYXLRZ1GmtVFj4fUxb8yF9TffUAslGuc4D3BZk0-ibX74BOnezhernxbYES2X83WwvVweR-0bEjhmY1f9P8PHBEVA/s400/P1060258.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
path had to find its way around numerous landslides but eventually we crossed
over a very high suspension bridge to make the final ascent up to the village
of Ghasa 2010m. It was here that we finally lost our doggy companion. He had
previously showed great courage around other, somewhat territorial, village
dogs, but was clearly fearful of kids with stones, water buffalo,
and...crossing steel suspension bridges. He had found his way around some of
the others by using an alternative road crossing some way away from the
pedestrian bridge and then, miraculously, catching up with us, but this was, to
excuse the pun, a bridge too far. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfE1NDY7r8-KSt9cKPsDKQkj2Y6o_3QvVbTnlnNVxKFvZq3bFvP5GG8pxN5wtqnpnHgf_W7JI0or2LGkMI4UC0nzK3__c59t63B-Y0pspoUiwkJDlSQgYARpSPHyLFNf4JchbLbw/s1600/P1060266.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfE1NDY7r8-KSt9cKPsDKQkj2Y6o_3QvVbTnlnNVxKFvZq3bFvP5GG8pxN5wtqnpnHgf_W7JI0or2LGkMI4UC0nzK3__c59t63B-Y0pspoUiwkJDlSQgYARpSPHyLFNf4JchbLbw/s640/P1060266.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwjSTCTPt18xLChMFChfN7NXXoLvjtmSJdCmN6NEiY2gRTgYiNZWzjtOPnE2DYI3dq9r6sFDxFAO9bGyFRUIXLehLtRHJdNSrY-yK7g3mvJTonmGB8WnfMn0ZMriUfp7u5OYQSPw/s1600/P1060275.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwjSTCTPt18xLChMFChfN7NXXoLvjtmSJdCmN6NEiY2gRTgYiNZWzjtOPnE2DYI3dq9r6sFDxFAO9bGyFRUIXLehLtRHJdNSrY-yK7g3mvJTonmGB8WnfMn0ZMriUfp7u5OYQSPw/s640/P1060275.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A bridge too far for our doggy companion!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUfgWaG3Nszf0xvbAgMe6muiv_Juy2vk2zS4J1FkDFmXOE2oRmesZ__j1a_G7MpwAazYLW5O_MDPa53_knDH4V9I1k8_F3o-yJ7fxPO677r3J3ATo5d1oopk8q8VVH59XdydXGDA/s1600/P1060283.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUfgWaG3Nszf0xvbAgMe6muiv_Juy2vk2zS4J1FkDFmXOE2oRmesZ__j1a_G7MpwAazYLW5O_MDPa53_knDH4V9I1k8_F3o-yJ7fxPO677r3J3ATo5d1oopk8q8VVH59XdydXGDA/s400/P1060283.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM5C0ninVBYkymyqcXV7EK55wMluUhUMx2UQ8brWlyq4olStJtSDo7Nf3ttit1N6v1gaDnQZSIkRqfL_opbeaG-u3DB9LXDxk6YloDTlWRYTdjFCgOfsNhA0wU5nHcM29mYpJ45g/s1600/P1060284.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM5C0ninVBYkymyqcXV7EK55wMluUhUMx2UQ8brWlyq4olStJtSDo7Nf3ttit1N6v1gaDnQZSIkRqfL_opbeaG-u3DB9LXDxk6YloDTlWRYTdjFCgOfsNhA0wU5nHcM29mYpJ45g/s400/P1060284.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Primitive faming in Ghasa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">As
we approached the lunch spot, the rather grubby Kali Gandaki Guesthouse, the
temperature was very high with the sun beating down on our heads, so it was a
relief to sit down in the shade of the restaurant, reached by about 1345. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">But
that turned out to be the end of the sun. Whilst we scoffed down egg curry, the
clouds that had been building up all morning turned themselves into the
inevitable thunderstorm and we sat it out for a while, entertained by a hen and
a brood of chicks also taking shelter in the restaurant area. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">In
the meantime, our guide, the erstwhile Kaji, had found better accommodation 20
minutes up the hill in Upper Ghasa, so we donned waterproofs and worked our way
up the hill, through another ACAP check point (Annapurna Conservation
authority) and through a kani, an arch over the trail, with prayer wheels on
the interior walls, and this one with a tiny monastery above the arch, sadly
locked up. We're now in Lower Mustang, and there's a bigger Tibetan and
Buddhist influence here, as evidenced by some of the local architecture. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTXm3r4hWxqegVGe9WWN_N7EqJGUw7vSdzEvE17S1xEsM-NRPKrkDFXJh7luynzN4LdlCJmXJgD_ftPC83t3NyVLedsAxIeyqeok2kIeJPmL8dJvqoJMtye_OwNHQlgAPQUcEdxw/s1600/P1060292.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTXm3r4hWxqegVGe9WWN_N7EqJGUw7vSdzEvE17S1xEsM-NRPKrkDFXJh7luynzN4LdlCJmXJgD_ftPC83t3NyVLedsAxIeyqeok2kIeJPmL8dJvqoJMtye_OwNHQlgAPQUcEdxw/s400/P1060292.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Upper Ghasa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio6Obm6zNvttwDdatTBXe2zRJzLSTwAux3v_YuCIZBf6HVW7l9EbrwsHDGCnYR0Z-Z-ogfOkEFrjs5d9dXMT6fqQ76pehUE84MBDRtqQIawQp4nUp-ovPfTu4nmMhcmwtX8u7GxQ/s1600/P1060297.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio6Obm6zNvttwDdatTBXe2zRJzLSTwAux3v_YuCIZBf6HVW7l9EbrwsHDGCnYR0Z-Z-ogfOkEFrjs5d9dXMT6fqQ76pehUE84MBDRtqQIawQp4nUp-ovPfTu4nmMhcmwtX8u7GxQ/s400/P1060297.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Our
guest house, The Golden Inn, was an unplanned stop as we had been going to
press on for another two hours to Lete at 2480m, but Kaji made a good call on
the weather, as the thunder and rain persisted well into late afternoon. This
guest house is fairly basic, no power as I write, but each bedroom has an 'en
suite' wet room and the water was just warm enough for a welcome shower. And
the temperature has now dropped to a much more comfortable level.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Happy
days...</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Tuesday
22 May</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
windy night, but the rain stopped early the previous evening. A restless night,
with very conscious dreaming, something that usually happens when I start to
get into higher altitudes.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Walked
down through the village to get a snap of the little monastery at the entrance
to the village, then a quick breakfast and off again at about 0630. We started
up the rough road again, and within a few turns we were gobsmacked by the view
of Dhaulagiri and Tukuche 6920m bathed in the early morning light right in
front of us. Awesome.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYajLExxRtWZKHaX_4U0uPAtJbbErozwoJD5L5XJ0yCHCKjqz256VS9zKjJ-fCcoozpQ5KeQDklvd6Ilbko5Lv7yhhh78g3nAE1V8g88kICVl0cLOQO-EV-9P-EkA2ltEnuNKHgw/s1600/P1060304.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYajLExxRtWZKHaX_4U0uPAtJbbErozwoJD5L5XJ0yCHCKjqz256VS9zKjJ-fCcoozpQ5KeQDklvd6Ilbko5Lv7yhhh78g3nAE1V8g88kICVl0cLOQO-EV-9P-EkA2ltEnuNKHgw/s400/P1060304.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dhaulagiri 8167m</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7Ct8mlpZbvchw_g-7j7o8uH6zi5NGsPJ7TP8P5dXnfbXOyWOgGs2dWuOb1teMlWB2fvuQ8MewXlZyNbr4GJcJA1SqlzP8PJJ3wkdZLjt8OMrOYt6ZMywfyrWGxWi6ljjX8GXFNg/s1600/P1060310.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7Ct8mlpZbvchw_g-7j7o8uH6zi5NGsPJ7TP8P5dXnfbXOyWOgGs2dWuOb1teMlWB2fvuQ8MewXlZyNbr4GJcJA1SqlzP8PJJ3wkdZLjt8OMrOYt6ZMywfyrWGxWi6ljjX8GXFNg/s640/P1060310.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZvqz63kFTT9CauGLw_siTy9V3P214ukfFuLJL4eedZMh6jUHpefh3AdO6m07ohFk3CPAxBKySe_SzomKv4nH4B27haUE2Wde9eDBACd3v51qCRN74G8f9HrIS6plLSd_qe52lUQ/s1600/P1060311.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZvqz63kFTT9CauGLw_siTy9V3P214ukfFuLJL4eedZMh6jUHpefh3AdO6m07ohFk3CPAxBKySe_SzomKv4nH4B27haUE2Wde9eDBACd3v51qCRN74G8f9HrIS6plLSd_qe52lUQ/s400/P1060311.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt1Xs9mn5OM5riY3Y7QXZBFNHT5NoSC6muHkhwaI7Ebs4iTqS2RgiKL0Og8CtN6bcL_aMeu5pXnOU6ZxUZlvJZjChe9ovlqVCwMJbIMj8-z8Quonx-WFHlh1zm8sqKhoBFEW9xoQ/s1600/P1060315.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt1Xs9mn5OM5riY3Y7QXZBFNHT5NoSC6muHkhwaI7Ebs4iTqS2RgiKL0Og8CtN6bcL_aMeu5pXnOU6ZxUZlvJZjChe9ovlqVCwMJbIMj8-z8Quonx-WFHlh1zm8sqKhoBFEW9xoQ/s640/P1060315.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYSCt7bLtQbI5r3cxy7rSURVQOd7iJKmeuYXlZpbv7xIrjsTGaMNdliJIpzhDOol3wJqt2InpIwrlxJeUPMH734PE8IUopfkD_e6VUt-V3oyWTXcoTV6UZIHFrlvGxoJJO_cfvMA/s1600/P1060316.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYSCt7bLtQbI5r3cxy7rSURVQOd7iJKmeuYXlZpbv7xIrjsTGaMNdliJIpzhDOol3wJqt2InpIwrlxJeUPMH734PE8IUopfkD_e6VUt-V3oyWTXcoTV6UZIHFrlvGxoJJO_cfvMA/s640/P1060316.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
are now high above the Kali Gandaki, as we ventured further along, views to the
east were dominated by close up views to Nilgiri South and the ridge emanating
from Annapurna South including the sharp promontory of Fang 7647m.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
beautiful walk, some stunning suspension bridge crossings, and fine views all
the way. We're in a more alpine environment now, with pines and fields of
potato and barley more in evidence. There are still relatively large
settlements up here above 2000m, including Lete and Kalopani, which has a
hospital, high school and technical school for vocational training. We stopped
after a couple of hours at the nicely situated Kalopani Guest House ('Annapurna
Coffee Shop') sitting in pleasant flower gardens with massive views all around.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiom3OoJwYH7ey1h_GZ5ni5Kb4PAHi9v4_LtIZXqJHQj6g7d0R395dSGIab-_U4Vk9WbILYAKJ6P1czMkYhWzKtcIYktsw8YuVFfW-EQ2u_RWcbJS8XOmlBgd9vDUoHunqP4B3_cw/s1600/P1060325.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiom3OoJwYH7ey1h_GZ5ni5Kb4PAHi9v4_LtIZXqJHQj6g7d0R395dSGIab-_U4Vk9WbILYAKJ6P1czMkYhWzKtcIYktsw8YuVFfW-EQ2u_RWcbJS8XOmlBgd9vDUoHunqP4B3_cw/s400/P1060325.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho3gruOvs0jdRlhbiE8FY4GzPtf3ySNrIcDu5XaoZ1YLMNSv9Wanq3LW21MfBv59inl_UJO0yT8RtgOZ3FrR0-tfKXHGCcnFtB9Jmt1W1KPoF_9rdSC6e4392EH5rAt4F8YHTg7Q/s1600/P1060336.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho3gruOvs0jdRlhbiE8FY4GzPtf3ySNrIcDu5XaoZ1YLMNSv9Wanq3LW21MfBv59inl_UJO0yT8RtgOZ3FrR0-tfKXHGCcnFtB9Jmt1W1KPoF_9rdSC6e4392EH5rAt4F8YHTg7Q/s400/P1060336.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMmaEGNCKxSxe8FMkgtGoZTz_IEpUQwAEgGAqN9wTtvQQTPtABuxhquMsotAkULH2JU2aUNZmuK4dlnmlva-Dcyguds-PbBA0RaysitNVEcbaV8sNzoX_sLofKecRXGLXpAto6qw/s1600/P1060342.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMmaEGNCKxSxe8FMkgtGoZTz_IEpUQwAEgGAqN9wTtvQQTPtABuxhquMsotAkULH2JU2aUNZmuK4dlnmlva-Dcyguds-PbBA0RaysitNVEcbaV8sNzoX_sLofKecRXGLXpAto6qw/s400/P1060342.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kali Gandaki Nadi</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Onwards,
following the Kali Gandaki to Kokhethanti where the river valley widens
considerably to form the Kali Gandaki Nadi, a very wide flood plain. Later on
we were to cross a section of this on tiny wooden bridges requiring a little
balance or else wet feet and bum would have followed!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">En
route we saw an eagle being hounded by a couple of crows protecting their nest,
and large bee nests in soft rock walls bordering the track. Big views down on
to the very wide gravel flood plain of the Kali Gandaki Nadi with the Nilgiri
range towering above the valley to the east, the three peaks of Nilgiri South,
Central and North glistening in the sun, but Dhaulagiri behind us, now shrouded
in cloud.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvhx8VlDhtlvqjp5snuZIsBp-_eX8x7wANTVxklZE35rQMGIrJB78VA0wsiax0XHHAmU1YT0gYpzPDvCnDU3Xc-1CRbBLFg-yqRLyH4_NWcb8k7CLBz-E8EYAZKjzoOGDS4Jm34w/s1600/P1060347.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvhx8VlDhtlvqjp5snuZIsBp-_eX8x7wANTVxklZE35rQMGIrJB78VA0wsiax0XHHAmU1YT0gYpzPDvCnDU3Xc-1CRbBLFg-yqRLyH4_NWcb8k7CLBz-E8EYAZKjzoOGDS4Jm34w/s400/P1060347.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUQJOcR2gUlpMonGAGg1c0x4pGysx0cp1tEdNjYmvq0VajOHtf1Ga3Plc1oM3NNQjHnA_SduEYdFzRxdxFZ2F0uetz2F5uaMn3ggBg1A_JejVWl-D7YegSw5dgMKpoEeIJMTueKw/s1600/P1060353.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUQJOcR2gUlpMonGAGg1c0x4pGysx0cp1tEdNjYmvq0VajOHtf1Ga3Plc1oM3NNQjHnA_SduEYdFzRxdxFZ2F0uetz2F5uaMn3ggBg1A_JejVWl-D7YegSw5dgMKpoEeIJMTueKw/s400/P1060353.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQemgQHCTXqjNuu1vq42EFa_e6sjTxmJ9H8DYtlQ1mf1TnzF06GiLbZxGowqkCi9qyFPUJ0GBHm1Yqb5kAAjiirY2u_g2tehG48_0Tkp2BnhdEAkW5O3-FML3nLa8EYYU4UXBdsA/s1600/P1060364.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQemgQHCTXqjNuu1vq42EFa_e6sjTxmJ9H8DYtlQ1mf1TnzF06GiLbZxGowqkCi9qyFPUJ0GBHm1Yqb5kAAjiirY2u_g2tehG48_0Tkp2BnhdEAkW5O3-FML3nLa8EYYU4UXBdsA/s640/P1060364.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Lunch
was taken in the Larjung Guesthouse at 2564m, a break very welcome as it had
got very hot once again. Clear skies still at lunchtime with a breeze blowing
down the wide expanse of valley.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Larjung
has a Tibetan feel, and there is a Nyingma monastery standing above the village
called La Thau with the shrine of Gauchang, a local Thakali family dynasty,
nearby. We then dropped down on to the vast gravel plain of the Kali Gandaki
Nadi, fairly dry at this time of the year, pre-monsoon. It was a fair tramp
across these barren expanses with a strong gusty wind on our back and spots of
rain falling from the rapid build up of cloud that had occurred while we were
having lunch. But in 90 minutes we reached Tukuche 2590m, and our lodgings at
the Laxmi Lodge. We could be in Tibet here, small gompas throughout the town
and the distinctive flat roof architecture. The guesthouse was also Tibetan in
character with the usual inner balconied courtyard with rooms off, and brightly
coloured paintwork throughout. Very pleasant indeed.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTpdEKj_ir6TOjG3lh1vr5wcMqG1PCn2J1veV1ce5jmHCIF8iXX_a1YNkab3IqP3IiI3KgXSC8YJ0bRkk39_cLPlcNOC5tQu4Yd8WxFnIiN2exasaWm9ip2i9I8Bgt38QHR9dF7A/s1600/P1060371.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTpdEKj_ir6TOjG3lh1vr5wcMqG1PCn2J1veV1ce5jmHCIF8iXX_a1YNkab3IqP3IiI3KgXSC8YJ0bRkk39_cLPlcNOC5tQu4Yd8WxFnIiN2exasaWm9ip2i9I8Bgt38QHR9dF7A/s400/P1060371.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tukuche</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyGVJ1-xYFNkASKTHJ43fG0ufWo_F1rf2NG3Cav_W_6eamSCse1Hv3zZUhJLkn-hwzhvWhUO4EcT7ovJsNc6niY1H0M-lHISRgivZx_bN9XBJ2WBAN3-sQXZNOqMaSzEfcrtNRPg/s1600/P1060395.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyGVJ1-xYFNkASKTHJ43fG0ufWo_F1rf2NG3Cav_W_6eamSCse1Hv3zZUhJLkn-hwzhvWhUO4EcT7ovJsNc6niY1H0M-lHISRgivZx_bN9XBJ2WBAN3-sQXZNOqMaSzEfcrtNRPg/s400/P1060395.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Note:
Tukuche was once a prominent Thakali (the generic name for people in the Kali
Gandhaki region) village, enriched by its position as a meeting place for salt
merchants from Tibet and grain suppliers from the south. 'Tuk' means grain, and
'che' means flat place. This trade has now withered but the remnants of its
rich trading position can still be seen in some of the fine traditional
properties in the town.</span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Wednesday
23 May</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
good sleep last night, as Tukuche is a very quiet village. Awoke early as
usual, and walked around the back streets of the village and had an ageing nun
open up a small gompa for me. Poor lady, terrible lungs, but gracious enough to
let me spend time studying the iconography. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgot_9NwIy06TO8nMGXo9ZXcsIjq-4a-MgSorbbhdcQeXk_MzwBDYhMnr5iqfe6Ztg17HtOHYpFNV60RonHewmKh3_xmmXCV3s2FCJ7OD-8JvqJ-c2yFSO_4qWexi_E9nCkH-GN3A/s1600/P1060399.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgot_9NwIy06TO8nMGXo9ZXcsIjq-4a-MgSorbbhdcQeXk_MzwBDYhMnr5iqfe6Ztg17HtOHYpFNV60RonHewmKh3_xmmXCV3s2FCJ7OD-8JvqJ-c2yFSO_4qWexi_E9nCkH-GN3A/s400/P1060399.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tukuche</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipkI_NMrwqVytREFZafkAklntgQKh6kz19S8hGuX8xNPWkMCMZUcAI5i1vx0GTIx4KLgSpbA7jGZ5LQ5H23h5rkWAocuCN1nFDrpjSOjPKZQhXDtjfIi3iMvL3dF_53MwSTVvQKA/s1600/P1060412.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipkI_NMrwqVytREFZafkAklntgQKh6kz19S8hGuX8xNPWkMCMZUcAI5i1vx0GTIx4KLgSpbA7jGZ5LQ5H23h5rkWAocuCN1nFDrpjSOjPKZQhXDtjfIi3iMvL3dF_53MwSTVvQKA/s400/P1060412.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Om Mani Padme Hum</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9sdVpcQvIV_RkUcTDk_PPrBBImDSRdP5yqRZaxDIwD52lsNC6eGWkQ0mDjtNtQPvebMeRHEKArdIkEa4Js0L8DS34S4vubkGnfl-lspiQvYYt2fCWVZVzztlKJknmoUmyeoECsw/s1600/P1060397.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9sdVpcQvIV_RkUcTDk_PPrBBImDSRdP5yqRZaxDIwD52lsNC6eGWkQ0mDjtNtQPvebMeRHEKArdIkEa4Js0L8DS34S4vubkGnfl-lspiQvYYt2fCWVZVzztlKJknmoUmyeoECsw/s640/P1060397.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tukuche in the early morning sun<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Off
at 0700, following the rough road northwards and the Kali Gandaki to our right,
grey with sediment from the glaciers above. The summit of Dhaulagiri was
visible in the bright morning light...very impressive. After 90 minutes rising
up through apple orchards and barley fields, we reached the scruffy lower
reaches of Marpha 2670m ('Apple Capital of Nepal'), and then we veered left
into Old Marpha to visit the large Buddhist Gompa, another Nyimgma temple
reached via steep steps with prayer wheels running up the middle. The old town
is hugely atmospheric, and it's like going back into medieval times, narrow
alleyways, firewood on all the roofs, kitchens billowing smoke from wood
burners.</span> </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB5U_mATq1Chv9ffOWTLPATmORVG6JtWlxfceXcrsoREDQ1_bwO4jSbOrUTS7Y26aN95L8av11qdcFHYvizhtJ_EaSTcGnJoliuYdhmfCcUwECAg0EkVmEGD7sulX9v-nLBoHeNw/s1600/P1060416.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB5U_mATq1Chv9ffOWTLPATmORVG6JtWlxfceXcrsoREDQ1_bwO4jSbOrUTS7Y26aN95L8av11qdcFHYvizhtJ_EaSTcGnJoliuYdhmfCcUwECAg0EkVmEGD7sulX9v-nLBoHeNw/s400/P1060416.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilEI0MGc1ykslv_WD4qkfhKP1aY5n4YnPoDtTf9RXoiL0_lrva5BeqRawslwsWtgc5vJAb50aWzOzLGLH6oEDVOXCvP85Na397Kpf2CCPk9465dSIy85JBSeCFpvCaxvge_l2a4w/s1600/P1060420.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilEI0MGc1ykslv_WD4qkfhKP1aY5n4YnPoDtTf9RXoiL0_lrva5BeqRawslwsWtgc5vJAb50aWzOzLGLH6oEDVOXCvP85Na397Kpf2CCPk9465dSIy85JBSeCFpvCaxvge_l2a4w/s400/P1060420.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
gompa was very quiet, and is situated just below a meditation centre, and the
central figure in the main temple hall was a red Buddha figure, which with my
limited knowledge I deduced to be Amit</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Arial Unicode MS';">ā</span><span lang="EN-US">bha (but I'm
probably wrong!). Walls adorned with the usual deities like Mahakala. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdK9kJMD762vgEhR4j3SU5pM7TIm9aXmwLjQoaOY9ziEB3xgc3JFK17byXQnfEpiovZnVf8mKj6UM35OXgbtRxjhsTEPc4SFAp9zKAppjHQSxJWuLDGkniWUrSrWoWKdb9fo3GZQ/s1600/P1060429.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdK9kJMD762vgEhR4j3SU5pM7TIm9aXmwLjQoaOY9ziEB3xgc3JFK17byXQnfEpiovZnVf8mKj6UM35OXgbtRxjhsTEPc4SFAp9zKAppjHQSxJWuLDGkniWUrSrWoWKdb9fo3GZQ/s640/P1060429.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old Marpha</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh25CWZXVjhDLkGXntVm2qKoSJGjQNRlh2iPAJy_DbmvYU8iCoVJxn-s1dxVrvVCIeYeZxdK7zTvzIiOKT4g-fyM88VWwFVKQ_aETZzrHgRNcITqOlEZZ61h7FzmQEOr7xxFVgdYw/s1600/P1060436.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh25CWZXVjhDLkGXntVm2qKoSJGjQNRlh2iPAJy_DbmvYU8iCoVJxn-s1dxVrvVCIeYeZxdK7zTvzIiOKT4g-fyM88VWwFVKQ_aETZzrHgRNcITqOlEZZ61h7FzmQEOr7xxFVgdYw/s640/P1060436.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL93YtMW9z-j3jkJHVIkgDnjgWLMTRV6eCwD-2mMmQOjzrwONEfYqLgK6YxA4OMzbx-vLbHuGjpJ965mZGyQZAZlkFMdg-DG8JSLSaomAoK_fXuJpvYblnx0lxqlUvXNfge5tKrw/s1600/P1060447.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL93YtMW9z-j3jkJHVIkgDnjgWLMTRV6eCwD-2mMmQOjzrwONEfYqLgK6YxA4OMzbx-vLbHuGjpJ965mZGyQZAZlkFMdg-DG8JSLSaomAoK_fXuJpvYblnx0lxqlUvXNfge5tKrw/s640/P1060447.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entering the gompa in Marpha</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAhRWzC19jz_W7hnfx2OSuhn8w6GObipBWHnQw3VBsX4Q4RdpUNwbYtOMhPouG-lLar6o1nmF9txHvHQthE_N0GR34p6er7ngJxAZE9I78zdOm_136sCGPfXKHOSKkZU_EAbiCjQ/s1600/P1060448.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAhRWzC19jz_W7hnfx2OSuhn8w6GObipBWHnQw3VBsX4Q4RdpUNwbYtOMhPouG-lLar6o1nmF9txHvHQthE_N0GR34p6er7ngJxAZE9I78zdOm_136sCGPfXKHOSKkZU_EAbiCjQ/s400/P1060448.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHmTHzgMqw4fD7CZTI93HZUGnnVtfjhs2yNWZNrT3tO9O6AVzxS2uTR9X3zzR83aMPxSQ7H5ri9JXmmu4zT6r9O_T4jjtc12qkZgtErcJXwAgpSqD-KeGvz5wKPmYzTXQFg2jjOg/s1600/P1060455.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHmTHzgMqw4fD7CZTI93HZUGnnVtfjhs2yNWZNrT3tO9O6AVzxS2uTR9X3zzR83aMPxSQ7H5ri9JXmmu4zT6r9O_T4jjtc12qkZgtErcJXwAgpSqD-KeGvz5wKPmYzTXQFg2jjOg/s400/P1060455.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOsaiFPwff7PNLKFiwaK2RwCXNKX6t-e_D8CAeE2tkmgPOniaXksvu350pp8gp7bDOrNSeL4pAhPsGhxdZJqou_fkDcfAx8qKkhADPReo133JNm-UN0xkUxuf-BMrcxexbJ4eQKA/s1600/P1060458.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOsaiFPwff7PNLKFiwaK2RwCXNKX6t-e_D8CAeE2tkmgPOniaXksvu350pp8gp7bDOrNSeL4pAhPsGhxdZJqou_fkDcfAx8qKkhADPReo133JNm-UN0xkUxuf-BMrcxexbJ4eQKA/s640/P1060458.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLy6WOpX1cpMwybGCDK1XvEBlYLpIreZtAFonTKYwznDVtSaMG2lRNsmAn-Ztzxal_YojX3OkWRt4y6BBzBsmhj3LYhFDkJIkNNwosteaThIlo3N6HdDpYxGaJBtQhXBxQ3d8rhg/s1600/P1060459.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLy6WOpX1cpMwybGCDK1XvEBlYLpIreZtAFonTKYwznDVtSaMG2lRNsmAn-Ztzxal_YojX3OkWRt4y6BBzBsmhj3LYhFDkJIkNNwosteaThIlo3N6HdDpYxGaJBtQhXBxQ3d8rhg/s400/P1060459.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivqcXMtmG2ZSKoPuyF8o4uN03IbQkBHb9aOaQOxIzs82tK0jpjzQDQPutSE32t9dBQJuMMT0ynp9cvqgY47tDf-4E9fuE-8vXBK1dn3DrsklioW8N3ZpeYdaOxDgVsJOGuAJUGWA/s1600/P1060471.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivqcXMtmG2ZSKoPuyF8o4uN03IbQkBHb9aOaQOxIzs82tK0jpjzQDQPutSE32t9dBQJuMMT0ynp9cvqgY47tDf-4E9fuE-8vXBK1dn3DrsklioW8N3ZpeYdaOxDgVsJOGuAJUGWA/s640/P1060471.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yab yum</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV1u9qz2LzdPut36eyY9eDBbA8XgZ2rcCoMe-1YxpTgzDJ00-9uQTpLWxt9ncB8jcpRHZ931denRub4Ug4K0ukDklherdnhsrlD0RdtzTfFgpUKYYb6Fcs91SzMIyQfjT1JbEGJA/s1600/P1060481.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV1u9qz2LzdPut36eyY9eDBbA8XgZ2rcCoMe-1YxpTgzDJ00-9uQTpLWxt9ncB8jcpRHZ931denRub4Ug4K0ukDklherdnhsrlD0RdtzTfFgpUKYYb6Fcs91SzMIyQfjT1JbEGJA/s640/P1060481.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmnuCdRU_URP2KiJwEIGnv1vaHIu7vM-NZ1LkfWW4JvgBvTYWw7E0h0b3a9fxbdICx8PVmPtMmlIffr90pmIoZKyBKn3Ry9uzQQ2yGn4WSryb3_bgKXMfo1ltPMxYFYgqzW85DGQ/s1600/P1060485.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmnuCdRU_URP2KiJwEIGnv1vaHIu7vM-NZ1LkfWW4JvgBvTYWw7E0h0b3a9fxbdICx8PVmPtMmlIffr90pmIoZKyBKn3Ry9uzQQ2yGn4WSryb3_bgKXMfo1ltPMxYFYgqzW85DGQ/s400/P1060485.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">As
we departed northwards from Marpha the terrain changes very significantly. A
dry, arid landscape stretched ahead of us, and the geology is now very
distinctive, with wind eroded loess and sandstones.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">From
the start of our walk today we've seen planes flying into and out of Jomsom
2720m (pronounced Zomsom), our objective for the day, but they have to fly in
very early as the winds created in the divide between the Dhaulagiri and
Annapurna ranges become very strong later in the day, and nothing can fly in
and out of this airstrip. The wind was a feature of the latter half of our
walk, fortunately on our backs from the south, but producing a very dry and
dusty atmosphere requiring us to don our Buff face scarves...this will be life
for the next 10 -12 days!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgFGZSVa5uYYTPefz_4IJVGkAhx50JVutouLYG1sjSVt7GIFdLiP5T9sosRPRqAeVhY1HTHbh76kRLZnxS0nuGnHX3-WtGnTxWU6wbnGdZaEtet9svrluAhJVfTLTatJomy7sSkA/s1600/P1060489.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgFGZSVa5uYYTPefz_4IJVGkAhx50JVutouLYG1sjSVt7GIFdLiP5T9sosRPRqAeVhY1HTHbh76kRLZnxS0nuGnHX3-WtGnTxWU6wbnGdZaEtet9svrluAhJVfTLTatJomy7sSkA/s400/P1060489.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking back to Marpha</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2A81Hp6VYgKnFEHasg3HKUtYccD-aqdzZiFPTXPRMkiCpNziIIjOYnXso6U6b_SPrzOdqgCCyP63giaDE9hPeYHHBgqVuCdO34kWCkc5socVs0Pi8BcRcjbW0PQTCVTrGVGMHwQ/s1600/P1060494.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2A81Hp6VYgKnFEHasg3HKUtYccD-aqdzZiFPTXPRMkiCpNziIIjOYnXso6U6b_SPrzOdqgCCyP63giaDE9hPeYHHBgqVuCdO34kWCkc5socVs0Pi8BcRcjbW0PQTCVTrGVGMHwQ/s400/P1060494.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jomsom ahead</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwHMsa3itefruV42q3tT-74nRbP_iqZzbR3hF9Ws-GamwTcGKDseg4BZINqTG2e6BjdCEIhJSdGzmwmshKA79rUZjFCg5GuOE8LlsdALAitUaPnUiDmZsb_dVzJVTsGMDVSPO7JA/s1600/P1060499.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwHMsa3itefruV42q3tT-74nRbP_iqZzbR3hF9Ws-GamwTcGKDseg4BZINqTG2e6BjdCEIhJSdGzmwmshKA79rUZjFCg5GuOE8LlsdALAitUaPnUiDmZsb_dVzJVTsGMDVSPO7JA/s400/P1060499.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikznJvMIc9p-KGzNx5LONxZ9w1QRSvFdsq8jKHyzlYY0b3vrm9OI8XWP0tVW16oy3w7OVbovAebfoecQ9Tx-SXp43I1gyXUrt90y5748Zzn0FT19awh3bAeHJKY8bL9p-Kqh3O4Q/s1600/P1060511.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikznJvMIc9p-KGzNx5LONxZ9w1QRSvFdsq8jKHyzlYY0b3vrm9OI8XWP0tVW16oy3w7OVbovAebfoecQ9Tx-SXp43I1gyXUrt90y5748Zzn0FT19awh3bAeHJKY8bL9p-Kqh3O4Q/s400/P1060511.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entering Jomsom<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh31pYbUXscCAHo8bei6S2vmTDsnt1JRaJO_AOW-lQ8sRWu0Uzt-FEr66nRiTt1FEEHk_mHKfvUS8fp_7LH4IzVZi-B2__j4nUkoIWEVV1GXj1qXF809oiY0bQ0ZXEo65qQ3TMOpA/s1600/P1060514.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh31pYbUXscCAHo8bei6S2vmTDsnt1JRaJO_AOW-lQ8sRWu0Uzt-FEr66nRiTt1FEEHk_mHKfvUS8fp_7LH4IzVZi-B2__j4nUkoIWEVV1GXj1qXF809oiY0bQ0ZXEo65qQ3TMOpA/s640/P1060514.jpg" width="626" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Face scarves to protect against the wind and dust, Jomsom</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Entering
Jomsom, the biggest town we've seen for days, you can see the airstrip and then
the wide street adorned with equipment shops, a motorbike dealer, and numerous
'German' bakeries...some apple str</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Arial Unicode MS';">ü</span><span lang="EN-US">del later
methinks...</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">An
early finish today, so lunch, some rest and some washing, then out into the
town to try the local Magic Bean bakery, which supplied excellent coffee and,
yes, you've guessed it hot apple str</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Arial Unicode MS';">ü</span><span lang="EN-US">del...yum. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We're
staying in the Hotel Himalayan Inn, 150m to the tiny airport, whose entrance is
accessed off the main street in Jomsom. It has good, hot showers and wifi...so
a lot of blog uploads and catching up on email filled the afternoon. Somewhat
disturbingly, there's the wreckage of an aircraft that crashed a couple of
weeks prior to our visit (killing fifteen people) high up on the hill above the
town. We had a fine view of it from the dining room...something to think about
when we leave Jomsom by plane in a couple of weeks time!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq4-_w2VeozqS6e9bsQfNc6UQv06wNW9qlAsNJAQWM4ZvXYPbAmo2fUfkOfVkyaLR58cPzCE4eJNAzY2iV2GP29gG2rqicNdN7LlNjME1BINt_37wG64FvnkA5vvX-WTtfMHhKLw/s1600/P1060520.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq4-_w2VeozqS6e9bsQfNc6UQv06wNW9qlAsNJAQWM4ZvXYPbAmo2fUfkOfVkyaLR58cPzCE4eJNAzY2iV2GP29gG2rqicNdN7LlNjME1BINt_37wG64FvnkA5vvX-WTtfMHhKLw/s640/P1060520.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wreckage above the town of Jomsom</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnIDtfhxPbdHGGbaSBPrvNAURfbY80mMJmnKrZl2AdhcJdOrSM5Vhf7haoy_yY-CC0BcGzMaAMgVy9CYw4qYOapo05KgJd-08ylmkzH81eVONKWv2Fx4FIfPiiDnXtWf4ce2DtUg/s1600/P1060532.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnIDtfhxPbdHGGbaSBPrvNAURfbY80mMJmnKrZl2AdhcJdOrSM5Vhf7haoy_yY-CC0BcGzMaAMgVy9CYw4qYOapo05KgJd-08ylmkzH81eVONKWv2Fx4FIfPiiDnXtWf4ce2DtUg/s400/P1060532.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our guesthouse in Jomsom. Nilgiri in the beckground</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Thursday
24 May</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Entertained
by the daily air schedule arriving into Jomsom directly behind the hotel, it
was interesting to see a 15 minute turnaround from landing to take off again.
Great views to Nilgiri from the bedroom window too. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkol7HHlxCK_8ONov69u7rYPzKJ2cdOfegV_KdmhDGWauUwVCr9myCSxFWSa-0Xnoksd8XmjNKmCXa5bb4zaIdKLEItwWj4PNeQWHBL7R_vVLLDp99CE9k7MhsBMx6qfACleX2ag/s1600/P1060535.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkol7HHlxCK_8ONov69u7rYPzKJ2cdOfegV_KdmhDGWauUwVCr9myCSxFWSa-0Xnoksd8XmjNKmCXa5bb4zaIdKLEItwWj4PNeQWHBL7R_vVLLDp99CE9k7MhsBMx6qfACleX2ag/s400/P1060535.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Views southwards to Jomsom</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj76L_yKb9Fgvs-uVNiLXzoTNCHTrt6iNGv4yi1_3AUhjw7VB60SeQ-h6thvlvXrtVBUdZRPXxhXfMnu37IWwDHv9ZaZx5tz5JqXHJZj9LmrIBJUUI37U_P-9Yf2RIZG1hCYhlfQQ/s1600/P1060537.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj76L_yKb9Fgvs-uVNiLXzoTNCHTrt6iNGv4yi1_3AUhjw7VB60SeQ-h6thvlvXrtVBUdZRPXxhXfMnu37IWwDHv9ZaZx5tz5JqXHJZj9LmrIBJUUI37U_P-9Yf2RIZG1hCYhlfQQ/s400/P1060537.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US">Off
a little later today as our guide Kaji had to sort out provisions, four ponies
for our camping gear, and one to ride in case of injury or fatigue, for the
next stage of our trek into Upper Mustang. A beautiful morning, and easy
walking through the northern part of Jomsom, past the Nepalese Army Mountain
Warfare Regimental HQ and out on to the eastern side of the Kali Gandhaki
valley, a vast wasteland of gravel and sand, which will be covered by flood
water after the monsoon rains in July and August feed the glaciers further
north. Apparently the Kali Gandhaki becomes the Thak Khola at this point.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Many
miles later brought us to a teahouse at Ekle Bhatti, and we had enjoyed
impressive views southwards to Dhaulagiri, Nilgiri and Tilicho so far. But the
eye was now drawn to the huge rockscapes to our west, the entry point into the
remote region of Dolpo, and the canyon like landscape to the north...our
objective for the next 12 days, Upper Mustang.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYHpcrSWBBw2hU80prnxH4T5Y7a_HfIwwylnGPNvoP6NJdJLZ2M6kNsYfVCxEHi4iYRUQXE2xfvCmVYULzkb-C3wFW7uuaVwdGsC8Y73Ie-0qg1TKtXELRoIYqOz5cEZEBzaauMg/s1600/P1060549.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYHpcrSWBBw2hU80prnxH4T5Y7a_HfIwwylnGPNvoP6NJdJLZ2M6kNsYfVCxEHi4iYRUQXE2xfvCmVYULzkb-C3wFW7uuaVwdGsC8Y73Ie-0qg1TKtXELRoIYqOz5cEZEBzaauMg/s400/P1060549.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaving Jomson, Nilgiri towering above us</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw1WqDCTJA3Xr2oeMQPTzQEMaFx-TmM0_JSovfsG-CqaTZX1269S13l9DkChZLil3klhVv2V5acOKMHthDHiYmsIhK9gaGSIB7-gEDgF-uWQCXBCfyy-20emWK0kl22NrtL7H9Ug/s1600/P1060561.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw1WqDCTJA3Xr2oeMQPTzQEMaFx-TmM0_JSovfsG-CqaTZX1269S13l9DkChZLil3klhVv2V5acOKMHthDHiYmsIhK9gaGSIB7-gEDgF-uWQCXBCfyy-20emWK0kl22NrtL7H9Ug/s400/P1060561.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approaching Kagbeni</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Thankfully,
the wind came up from the south at about 1030, easing us along the way and
before midday our camping point for the night came into view, Kagbeni at around
2800-2900m. Situated on the banks of the Kali Gandhaki, this is a little oasis
of poplar trees and barley fields on the southern reaches, and our camping spot
was behind the Nilgiri View Hotel in a small walled courtyard, excellent
protection from the intensive afternoon winds.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsGiArukSd_Aqd29hagVPz8LUpLS2B4NmkNOrxGYNslPknVT694gB5tnBdySxO4uB7ptV2KOzpoCjXTzaMeO4gFuaaXNeb_2EIkUPVr2atpJxaJT293-NE3fCUibltmVNY_6K1Lg/s1600/P1060568.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsGiArukSd_Aqd29hagVPz8LUpLS2B4NmkNOrxGYNslPknVT694gB5tnBdySxO4uB7ptV2KOzpoCjXTzaMeO4gFuaaXNeb_2EIkUPVr2atpJxaJT293-NE3fCUibltmVNY_6K1Lg/s400/P1060568.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entrepreneurship in Kagbeni!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">After
a quick lunch prepared by our new camp cook, we took a walk to the town's ochre
coloured gompa, Kag Chode Thupten Samphel Ling, a small monastery of the Sakya
sect, with a monk population of about 35. They are currently inviting sponsorships
to support young monks training here. This was a very old structure with small
dukhang, featuring a Maitreya Buddha surrounded by images of Sakya lamas of
note. There was an excellent Wheel of Life at the entrance. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLeKZo-yO1itv2vbH0dzVh8_P6R7M9Y4z3EbWT0E-X5h0KPKpDewytBPMaslbnzOHV9WexfT_2HSgnKp_fSBpesPZ-1PqepdP4eJglpf9nwwSnTC49St8vw6LdwzKGrojHyAISrw/s1600/P1060572.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLeKZo-yO1itv2vbH0dzVh8_P6R7M9Y4z3EbWT0E-X5h0KPKpDewytBPMaslbnzOHV9WexfT_2HSgnKp_fSBpesPZ-1PqepdP4eJglpf9nwwSnTC49St8vw6LdwzKGrojHyAISrw/s400/P1060572.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Kag Chode Thupten Samphel Ling</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Climbing
up steep stairs to the roof gave superb views up and down the valley, to
Dhaulagiri and the mountains to the east, which the Thorung Pass of Annapurna
Circuit fame intersects. There was also a surprise in that the old town was
revealed from this position, very old compacted mud structures contrasting the
numerous, very scruffy, building sites
in the newer part of the town. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-FCALg4-jJYwbwjPzal11dRouYAuQ_-93X9DxCdWrVnc-aKFeO43mfO4NCmrGNhD76L0RBV7T0dPkjMuAnbDQbu4z5TTvsUxCWmX8WV7gOCevDuuzEy_7Hgvo_lKFgn_7Q7c0fw/s1600/P1060596.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-FCALg4-jJYwbwjPzal11dRouYAuQ_-93X9DxCdWrVnc-aKFeO43mfO4NCmrGNhD76L0RBV7T0dPkjMuAnbDQbu4z5TTvsUxCWmX8WV7gOCevDuuzEy_7Hgvo_lKFgn_7Q7c0fw/s400/P1060596.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirh3ImJ_GFUJBydsU3MfurpDFVIR96DzZQnLTTiLDPVpMkOiZDaGL4KRVkm82_JlImbtx49yYF6GBxDqRVpQuQYen9BJUiBSK3Io_clvM2Fv-0a2pSI-zb7-ATIEysr9J2WLMuIg/s1600/P1060598.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirh3ImJ_GFUJBydsU3MfurpDFVIR96DzZQnLTTiLDPVpMkOiZDaGL4KRVkm82_JlImbtx49yYF6GBxDqRVpQuQYen9BJUiBSK3Io_clvM2Fv-0a2pSI-zb7-ATIEysr9J2WLMuIg/s400/P1060598.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSDt5VglF8SaUkdqpDW6D8tN1tEJItCUC5aMShuhlHuFojAzxWKG-DvCIbGD9m55IT7BN__GYpHs2fLM1kHOvY0hPxfZaqPEM211WQeJtYh3ARRDdNjPE-zjnj4B3jI_MDe_eHmw/s1600/P1060600.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSDt5VglF8SaUkdqpDW6D8tN1tEJItCUC5aMShuhlHuFojAzxWKG-DvCIbGD9m55IT7BN__GYpHs2fLM1kHOvY0hPxfZaqPEM211WQeJtYh3ARRDdNjPE-zjnj4B3jI_MDe_eHmw/s400/P1060600.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT0837jHwf8T8anhE_aicMFVqAnRH7iUeMZfJKPeAYQFn_DWewQfQoUgtN6E1DVz7KfkmW0JGpOn_nhjQM8co9cjFncvVduJv4_FZCnoih7mrIUBOJy2ZTufcNXNykGXwJWuzuVw/s1600/P1060604.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT0837jHwf8T8anhE_aicMFVqAnRH7iUeMZfJKPeAYQFn_DWewQfQoUgtN6E1DVz7KfkmW0JGpOn_nhjQM8co9cjFncvVduJv4_FZCnoih7mrIUBOJy2ZTufcNXNykGXwJWuzuVw/s640/P1060604.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kagbeni</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
popped into the checkpoint where we have to present ourselves tomorrow morning
in order to be able to venture further north. The permit to trek into Upper
Mustang is relatively expensive at $500, but this limits numbers in a region
which is very fragile environmentally and has limited facilities for tourists
and trekkers. Looking at the stats presented on the wall, they have had an
average of about 750 visitors per annum in Upper Mustang since access was
opened up in 1992. Visitor numbers are around 1000-1100 p.a. these days, so a
quick calculation suggests that the region has probably had no more than 20,000
visitors over the last twenty years...we are privileged indeed! Only 5% of
visitors passing through Jomsom venture there, 49% go to Muktinath (mainly
Indian Hindu pilgrims), 41% are trekking the Annapurna Circuit and the balance
walking the Jomsom trail back towards Pokhara.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFuU3a5SmExvfT4bWdVxLRfnaOmk-qOF-kXDp6_HKRqqu2029dnuhaG834YYzZLRWn3a0RZt4H3-4Unil7NOlaiNXMKKsoJMlAkJTsRc_-B6FSoEOwYw8yFJjULV06kv0STiE8Fw/s1600/P1060606.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFuU3a5SmExvfT4bWdVxLRfnaOmk-qOF-kXDp6_HKRqqu2029dnuhaG834YYzZLRWn3a0RZt4H3-4Unil7NOlaiNXMKKsoJMlAkJTsRc_-B6FSoEOwYw8yFJjULV06kv0STiE8Fw/s640/P1060606.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfuJR3rN1kEkhB6pRWIdSZDLtQ2eFbCYd3JTkAf65gvjqYB5ZMD0nKPhoeDn1G_zImEfhjT3wS-UlVvay-hNl186NJuPalUXM6reMfKdjdwdTxgpf2wYvBPaWsooF-y1laLuGfqw/s1600/P1060595.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfuJR3rN1kEkhB6pRWIdSZDLtQ2eFbCYd3JTkAf65gvjqYB5ZMD0nKPhoeDn1G_zImEfhjT3wS-UlVvay-hNl186NJuPalUXM6reMfKdjdwdTxgpf2wYvBPaWsooF-y1laLuGfqw/s400/P1060595.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Northwards into Mustang</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBDXhGp6am1OY5mihOjJGkJmglnX6AOXjWBVvBG6Xuby4_PwNDQdMPHSdCdamAEA2p6HwtU99hDb6Gyody-hgfGo015HCg5gDPIyT1ZtWaJ4DzmvoM0a4toekark9r_XwC4ag_5g/s1600/P1060608.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBDXhGp6am1OY5mihOjJGkJmglnX6AOXjWBVvBG6Xuby4_PwNDQdMPHSdCdamAEA2p6HwtU99hDb6Gyody-hgfGo015HCg5gDPIyT1ZtWaJ4DzmvoM0a4toekark9r_XwC4ag_5g/s640/P1060608.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
ventured into the old town, absolutely fascinating again, and really like
stepping back into the distant past, families living in hidden courtyards off
narrow alleyways to protect them from the relentless wind that blows up from
the south from mid morning every day, with their animals, goats, ponies and
cows living in very close proximity. Fascinating, but you can feel the poverty
here, even compared to Jomsom, three hours walk to the south.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Back
to the camp, tents set up now, and relieved to get out of the wind at last. A
sign of conditions ahead... </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Friday
25 May</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Not
a bad night in our sheltered camp spot. We were all awake after the 0430 bells
at the nearby gompa, closely followed by the horns used by the monks in their
early morning prayers, and we were quickly ready for breakfast and our entry
into the ancient Kingdom of Mustang. By 0730 we were through the control point,
and immediately climbing the east side of the Kali Gandhaki valley to reach a
superb contouring route through increasingly incredible rock scenery. Most of
the rock seems to be alluvial, some fine grey sandstone interspersed with rough
conglomerate, and scree fans everywhere. Fine views at the start, south to
Nilgiri and eventually we could see the Dhaulagiri Himal range from afar, but
our perspective was dominated by the awesome and constantly changing canyon
scenery that unfurled ahead of us. A few steepish sections but we were quickly
above 3000m and enjoying fine but somewhat hazy conditions.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsx7tVr20CpIJ69x8F565r0LTH3l8BjuijUEeZhNjK4iiw6Ixu2KCsMHxs43aFGHFxEBPph0J1DrjkjJ1ZzX3CoflA8d75wsQiTB5ZMq5bAyROzgz6gL9aVr5K05ViwCEr_hqJUg/s1600/P1060618.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsx7tVr20CpIJ69x8F565r0LTH3l8BjuijUEeZhNjK4iiw6Ixu2KCsMHxs43aFGHFxEBPph0J1DrjkjJ1ZzX3CoflA8d75wsQiTB5ZMq5bAyROzgz6gL9aVr5K05ViwCEr_hqJUg/s400/P1060618.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kagbeni from the north<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRSFFxFWUOwHNjJ3EP0jpH4KSEqXNr8MFTaJmUruAJ5ogOsETe-OZxfXIwHgUtL9wobc4S6HdnMueQuxx7pFZlgPWUbEoHIYskChmpkLyGkm1Pyu1jNMbp2ZSo7vTbJgIAuYW1wQ/s1600/P1060621.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRSFFxFWUOwHNjJ3EP0jpH4KSEqXNr8MFTaJmUruAJ5ogOsETe-OZxfXIwHgUtL9wobc4S6HdnMueQuxx7pFZlgPWUbEoHIYskChmpkLyGkm1Pyu1jNMbp2ZSo7vTbJgIAuYW1wQ/s400/P1060621.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kali Gandaki, our companion northwards into Upper Mustang</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1bs4pjrdBgLmH6EQoG8oe6agD9Cp6pBYlb6Ux66RObb2HmWOUk1Us0zUPyhh9WCtQMPWdZ0KMp3UTwW0z3LZhXMUYH10fR_a-sFODrr5yKxw3-Ht9iCenb0ld2XQY6RdobOunqQ/s1600/P1060623.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1bs4pjrdBgLmH6EQoG8oe6agD9Cp6pBYlb6Ux66RObb2HmWOUk1Us0zUPyhh9WCtQMPWdZ0KMp3UTwW0z3LZhXMUYH10fR_a-sFODrr5yKxw3-Ht9iCenb0ld2XQY6RdobOunqQ/s400/P1060623.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Goodbye to the Himalaya, receding into the distance<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXQqFkEQ_EKsDfyF0RkdEavv2NsMs6oRmFJXfD6vMYICUiGo99Q8P9fX8DqdRCGCgGgEEqbI74ZbgvhsbhVAgfXkD-U1k_hyphenhyphenLMWudapOY8yoB4NNzyrxPcbh9cCboLcHv0wYg1qg/s1600/P1060626.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXQqFkEQ_EKsDfyF0RkdEavv2NsMs6oRmFJXfD6vMYICUiGo99Q8P9fX8DqdRCGCgGgEEqbI74ZbgvhsbhVAgfXkD-U1k_hyphenhyphenLMWudapOY8yoB4NNzyrxPcbh9cCboLcHv0wYg1qg/s400/P1060626.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The rocky road ahead...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX-VhxTCO2o5XLG_qCsY9b2f_ONAl6ELkbjTwceA2R_gUo-NPZU6HB9NcMuXmgpi_qFoePWtNhPAZuJa-aCzmBAZkD5RktPoHkVB69y1cNO9M1h6BIxKeUuaGbZG_ylIVfS5LZWw/s1600/P1060636.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX-VhxTCO2o5XLG_qCsY9b2f_ONAl6ELkbjTwceA2R_gUo-NPZU6HB9NcMuXmgpi_qFoePWtNhPAZuJa-aCzmBAZkD5RktPoHkVB69y1cNO9M1h6BIxKeUuaGbZG_ylIVfS5LZWw/s400/P1060636.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">John, Richard and Colin heading into Upper Mustang</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Crossing
small scree fans every few steps, you are reminded of the power of nature here,
the heavy snows of winter and the wind blasting through each day has created an
incredible landscape of fluted cliffs and sandstone bluffs. Red, white and
black chortens, unique to Mustang, greeted us on the approach to the small
settlement of Tangbe. Here we had a long stop and early lunch. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Tangbe,
a Gurung village at 3060m, is set on the side of the main valley but irrigated
by side valleys, enabling some barley, buckwheat and apple crops. Like most
towns in these parts, everybody and everything lives in enclosed courtyards to
keep out of the strong, gusty and dusty afternoon wind that blows up from the
south each day. The landscapes so far have been very Tibetan in character, high
brown rolling hills up to about 4000-5000m, with sporadic snow capped peaks
above 6000m above them, but the dominant feature has been the valley and the
wind eroded features along the way. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Trees
are now few and far between and the lack of grazing for animals means that they
are usually corralled in walled enclosures within the towns with fodder brought
daily to them. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Some
'traffic' early morning, as some of our route follows a jeep track created 4
years ago, although this terminates at
our destination for the day, Chele at 3100m. A few jeeps, the odd tractor, but
the majority were mule and pony trains accompanying the four or five trekker
groups who are on the same mission as us.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">After
lunch, the rock scenery went ballistic, huge sandstone cliffs, isolated wind
blasted nodules (I think the Americans call them 'hoodoos'), and we could see
wind action real time, blowing stones down the heavily grooved valley sides.
Every turn brought new features and astonishing views. I likened it to being in
the Grand Canyon, with intermittent Bryce Canyon features.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpAaHeArd-p8kHcN-qSXK1Plqur94no5vy8WJV4misE5SGFcF9rP4EycwLJP4mlDJolamgAe5l7i-NXW9cy9Ri5sXCBVsU3h9feBJih4s979P8f3ABPYOvsC0RDPlV_6cI8hY_6w/s1600/P1060655.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpAaHeArd-p8kHcN-qSXK1Plqur94no5vy8WJV4misE5SGFcF9rP4EycwLJP4mlDJolamgAe5l7i-NXW9cy9Ri5sXCBVsU3h9feBJih4s979P8f3ABPYOvsC0RDPlV_6cI8hY_6w/s400/P1060655.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUC0hZsPthZcllCBJnAyGQC-t1qlxwHclucfnzKBkDNqa7Pw0D_d2d53xT5HM7pvHk37pgGU7FH0Nd8Q7kWEChyJqOC9MycuO0Vd4Kvd5jiW7dAM05UUlL9x0rIqEFyazIf-Z_pQ/s1600/P1060674.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUC0hZsPthZcllCBJnAyGQC-t1qlxwHclucfnzKBkDNqa7Pw0D_d2d53xT5HM7pvHk37pgGU7FH0Nd8Q7kWEChyJqOC9MycuO0Vd4Kvd5jiW7dAM05UUlL9x0rIqEFyazIf-Z_pQ/s400/P1060674.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDlPt7hWLfR85Io8MFzj8GSRCFAJQ26OierpnJczeP_OT6cri9kD9KtmqAXIyUqic7PFYdbjXEzGox3d1M8klIY8KdeoSblysyXWjwyFd3mOwnbEbjDbUMhq6RTwwHxrEWqOrqDA/s1600/P1060686.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDlPt7hWLfR85Io8MFzj8GSRCFAJQ26OierpnJczeP_OT6cri9kD9KtmqAXIyUqic7PFYdbjXEzGox3d1M8klIY8KdeoSblysyXWjwyFd3mOwnbEbjDbUMhq6RTwwHxrEWqOrqDA/s400/P1060686.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiiVlUHh9RLEK3NV2OTRdlupZ40iawp4Tae2Uq8bbL9EDA-s_diZxDx9OONkoodDEl5YvizcU5iwyA8Mr-kR1zJX43OctO-Bm7JAAR2RfeqR0QxOrd1eeHhBdQTnmJOEBkyRBsuQ/s1600/P1060693.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiiVlUHh9RLEK3NV2OTRdlupZ40iawp4Tae2Uq8bbL9EDA-s_diZxDx9OONkoodDEl5YvizcU5iwyA8Mr-kR1zJX43OctO-Bm7JAAR2RfeqR0QxOrd1eeHhBdQTnmJOEBkyRBsuQ/s400/P1060693.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chhusing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
reached Chhusing, 3050m, easily, and on the approach were shown the meditation
cave complex said to have been used by Milarepa, one of the great promulgators
of Buddhism in Tibet.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">On
the western side of the canyon are many caves, populated by early settlers in
the region, and these continue northwards to Chele. Nearer Chele, some caves
are said to be burial sites. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">After
Chhusing, we dropped into the valley bottom, crossing river gravels before
crossing the river on a steel bridge next to a rock tunnel through which the
river flows, and then a short but steep climb up loose scree brought us to our
camp site in the village of Chele, another walled compound to keep out the
wind, but with great canyon views northwards. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
managed to get a Tuborg in a little guesthouse whilst the team put up the
tents...a good day for all!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq-ZLU8CSBHVTcDDkKo9Znv5To5O4lU1DVe57-ikVDxkeozIa7pFYt7S4VSA1wwfoypphGRPN6tRxZMtiMGfNe0u1JQ7r6hmoPDIxr1Zk0M7W254u2N5i0WsYSOt9csMfLn88ztg/s1600/P1060702.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq-ZLU8CSBHVTcDDkKo9Znv5To5O4lU1DVe57-ikVDxkeozIa7pFYt7S4VSA1wwfoypphGRPN6tRxZMtiMGfNe0u1JQ7r6hmoPDIxr1Zk0M7W254u2N5i0WsYSOt9csMfLn88ztg/s640/P1060702.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rock caves at Chhusing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5PgvMiGdym7J-AS-n34PlhTu_F0PSSyf7SEJmDTefD7yfrsDdQRQAEmMNDfsv2JlAg1FKlyYcXazmmerGY-0-OJzBfCMZxuWoPdGpIJz4ynVuwAADC4U44ep_TIGT7VNMtIKD4w/s1600/P1060704.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5PgvMiGdym7J-AS-n34PlhTu_F0PSSyf7SEJmDTefD7yfrsDdQRQAEmMNDfsv2JlAg1FKlyYcXazmmerGY-0-OJzBfCMZxuWoPdGpIJz4ynVuwAADC4U44ep_TIGT7VNMtIKD4w/s400/P1060704.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approaching Chele</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5lJEjmeYEhONyuHXye5LJRYYsTG4gRIUjOrUXxSQ9rITaLHIocUj0dTEhe5wMjNEDfV4H_Fn5Koe9ceodpyu0ANuoZ4yysfP-0jOEG_N0kt2-PWTnicrA9touCVb-2I1i2gNfdg/s1600/P1060720.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5lJEjmeYEhONyuHXye5LJRYYsTG4gRIUjOrUXxSQ9rITaLHIocUj0dTEhe5wMjNEDfV4H_Fn5Koe9ceodpyu0ANuoZ4yysfP-0jOEG_N0kt2-PWTnicrA9touCVb-2I1i2gNfdg/s400/P1060720.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chele</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDwdWR_Yu4loqReA78w87xNYdp7RN7n3eyGsD_OCUhYzV7RDKcdF7cRZOb_dAfLi8pAtJgVg0BjowEv_GynkQR_f4adEi3Bv28vz9KDj32ZQgBBjiFs-mj6EWGDeqGZCIxYRpf5w/s1600/P1060721.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDwdWR_Yu4loqReA78w87xNYdp7RN7n3eyGsD_OCUhYzV7RDKcdF7cRZOb_dAfLi8pAtJgVg0BjowEv_GynkQR_f4adEi3Bv28vz9KDj32ZQgBBjiFs-mj6EWGDeqGZCIxYRpf5w/s400/P1060721.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camp at Chele</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
quick historical perspective on Mustang - the region is more properly known as
Lo, thought to have been visited by Milarepa (1040-1123) and once part of
Ngari, now a province of western Tibet. Ame Pal is said to have been the
founder of the kingdom in 1380, and the present king (raja) of Mustang can
trace his lineage back 25 generations to him. Mustang retained its status as a
separate principality until 1951, but was then absorbed into Nepal, with the
raja given the position of honorary colonel in the Nepalese Army. A boundary
treaty between China and Nepal in 1963 ceded parts of northern Mustang to China
in return for Nepalese territorial gains on both sides of the region. Today,
there is an estimated population of 27,000, many of whom maintain strong
trading links with the south and increasingly with China over the nearby
Tibetan border. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Saturday
26 May</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Technically,
Upper Mustang really starts from the town of Samar, our first objective today,
necessitating a continuous climb of about three hours. But what a day! The
toughest of the trek by far, we trekked for about 8 hours plus stops. We
started the initial ascent at 0650, rising steeply out of Chele village and
soon climbing a superb trail up the north side of a canyon overlooking the
village of Ghyakar. A puja was underway in Ghyakar, possibly marking the start
of summer, with a procession led by a drummer circumnavigating the village
which was soon far below us on the other side of a spectacularly deep canyon.
Ultimately, an easy traverse brought us to Chele La at 3630m, and massive views
lie ahead of us, almost dizzying to look at. Bloody fantastic. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjJdByoDTkIS27eN8PXy2AuwIYzgeB3g0cODX5hK7NTwcagCaSsJCF3K7qp5I111xmlLjjm1khU85byEk53JcQD-wANppWkpO40eE3ShMp1mYkNRjXz3aLBvyYSxm_WO-ZbQY6hg/s1600/P1060722.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjJdByoDTkIS27eN8PXy2AuwIYzgeB3g0cODX5hK7NTwcagCaSsJCF3K7qp5I111xmlLjjm1khU85byEk53JcQD-wANppWkpO40eE3ShMp1mYkNRjXz3aLBvyYSxm_WO-ZbQY6hg/s400/P1060722.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsxlQgbXJSMcsjq-VoSxnY055jV6iOU7tcYU162wxmLgSUWU-Q_Quj7f4FnXChSZ4L0u9E-57jeqbXKayXIH1Gh5Nk0Ot2gbkS2T0kb-0uuf0hlrOe6GXRqcAT9Wx_l0Ae0tygPw/s1600/P1060730.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsxlQgbXJSMcsjq-VoSxnY055jV6iOU7tcYU162wxmLgSUWU-Q_Quj7f4FnXChSZ4L0u9E-57jeqbXKayXIH1Gh5Nk0Ot2gbkS2T0kb-0uuf0hlrOe6GXRqcAT9Wx_l0Ae0tygPw/s640/P1060730.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fine walking out from Chele</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX61JtE-CzODroY1YI7uGabXBM_VbCxG21M69V4ySVmzw20j8_jk5ZeDc56Tw_H_-wGNdJxV_7Jq5QDMt42EfGmdIFibfWZms_D3cvPFlSqMyypp6X-KpDxG1IUGMriv6qmW1nYQ/s1600/P1060731.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX61JtE-CzODroY1YI7uGabXBM_VbCxG21M69V4ySVmzw20j8_jk5ZeDc56Tw_H_-wGNdJxV_7Jq5QDMt42EfGmdIFibfWZms_D3cvPFlSqMyypp6X-KpDxG1IUGMriv6qmW1nYQ/s400/P1060731.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ghyakar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSJVMPech-S0sCQwArj07b8b70e3z1tSP2m6W8XFeTjS2mwoJr6Je04IK3wwNWxIYEPbIovZtuNIXokeEmXYK41sVKppSYvKs3tktRhH6XP9W5x-DTTQ8QAX94BS0h-LqVwyI_Gw/s1600/P1060737.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSJVMPech-S0sCQwArj07b8b70e3z1tSP2m6W8XFeTjS2mwoJr6Je04IK3wwNWxIYEPbIovZtuNIXokeEmXYK41sVKppSYvKs3tktRhH6XP9W5x-DTTQ8QAX94BS0h-LqVwyI_Gw/s400/P1060737.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibt1M3wELm62ZQg_N_3Ew9aX3DRaSyu2jefj6u3jtkHKLg7vHHvpTRt2QkTeoXOz2HDvZBrfpVeGvXww0TgxH_xj6E_XTF1N0I8xGQVfb9xKiFJi2ClAfc4G8JQLAtgKEx8JpfKg/s1600/P1060743.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibt1M3wELm62ZQg_N_3Ew9aX3DRaSyu2jefj6u3jtkHKLg7vHHvpTRt2QkTeoXOz2HDvZBrfpVeGvXww0TgxH_xj6E_XTF1N0I8xGQVfb9xKiFJi2ClAfc4G8JQLAtgKEx8JpfKg/s400/P1060743.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chele La 3630m</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">From
the pass we descended to the village of Samar 3620m, surrounded by poplar trees,
and with more cattle than people, a notable dwarf breed grazing just outside
the delectable Hotel Himali, where we stopped for lemon tea. Our genial host
also posed for photos and offered us a sample of butter tea...not my taste, but
clearly enjoyed by our guide, who then tucked in to a traditional bowl of
tsampa. He clearly knew what was ahead...</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9wdP54axXCf5KSwa2bwxfMZNx4Au1FMMK0rXX1n8oRANVDwtnTrnhf824j9I4bjl2qgA__XShtRm-crPpd2Y41sWNXEGv5EdG-TZQp1zWxQh-UfJ3KQ4B056LQ7k1iuSgXjcO0g/s1600/P1060745.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9wdP54axXCf5KSwa2bwxfMZNx4Au1FMMK0rXX1n8oRANVDwtnTrnhf824j9I4bjl2qgA__XShtRm-crPpd2Y41sWNXEGv5EdG-TZQp1zWxQh-UfJ3KQ4B056LQ7k1iuSgXjcO0g/s400/P1060745.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Samar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxL7RBPnWVFgR1NPEsn0sx5yTEZScVZ0_TheCLpR11DH1Tp01uGCAwVR8hldYrW-YMGnrVIw12IsvkTjvp2Z9FM0Tc2EkoZIkSKAQcDKaiHwsnx62ex-zYD6syLRa4e4ABXRPjgw/s1600/P1060748.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxL7RBPnWVFgR1NPEsn0sx5yTEZScVZ0_TheCLpR11DH1Tp01uGCAwVR8hldYrW-YMGnrVIw12IsvkTjvp2Z9FM0Tc2EkoZIkSKAQcDKaiHwsnx62ex-zYD6syLRa4e4ABXRPjgw/s400/P1060748.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The King & Queen of Mustang</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi88cwuK6gRP6kxbMEZzVG4LXsnyPHZbURrDxAfCR3XaHWD67OJa0jMgZ5c3ivqfNBgPvb16_AqWhMSgju5XQpDSvbseY6NU2TP73LKc5vageAQ0IqaASpVHTsevcmiiASR0JZgZA/s1600/P1060753.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi88cwuK6gRP6kxbMEZzVG4LXsnyPHZbURrDxAfCR3XaHWD67OJa0jMgZ5c3ivqfNBgPvb16_AqWhMSgju5XQpDSvbseY6NU2TP73LKc5vageAQ0IqaASpVHTsevcmiiASR0JZgZA/s400/P1060753.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaving Samar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqPMDgmGwKMe1fS08Nte_MX3A8lXva_IWkHqABvQ8GpMOrWHyzFkthL-e411Z69004ywOIPM-OAtN0YCrUBo6ITyMkzaoR1APSrwbTs6cIKa4U75JzaWhOxSw176Ing003MxJiqA/s1600/P1060754.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqPMDgmGwKMe1fS08Nte_MX3A8lXva_IWkHqABvQ8GpMOrWHyzFkthL-e411Z69004ywOIPM-OAtN0YCrUBo6ITyMkzaoR1APSrwbTs6cIKa4U75JzaWhOxSw176Ing003MxJiqA/s640/P1060754.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Clearing
this beautifully situated spot, with massive views of the Annapurna range to
the south, we passed through the obligatory mani gate to be confronted by our
next task. We were to take an alternative route to the main path in order to
visit a particularly sacred spot, the Chyungsi Rhangchung cave monastery,
hidden away in a deep canyon at 3400m.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
sharp descent to cross one ravine followed, then we veered off the main track,
crossed an even deeper ravine, losing height all the time. Crossing some open
countryside we got barked at by a Tibetan Mastiff, thankfully chained up, then
started up the long slog to a minor pass at about 3780m. What a view when we got
there! Massive canyon scenery to our north and east and the vastness of the
snow capped Himalaya to the south.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6T48LqGSRX2cy3WuAs0epvSeroh-nvhBRLmze-w6Wuoako2L_hiYiROnRhDSPrDW3hFwUZqaST9FICdYPlkl3cdR6FnTUTj1BAoezotWIUZY2axp8NTEB1S3F5IyuSuVkuotcKg/s1600/P1060755.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6T48LqGSRX2cy3WuAs0epvSeroh-nvhBRLmze-w6Wuoako2L_hiYiROnRhDSPrDW3hFwUZqaST9FICdYPlkl3cdR6FnTUTj1BAoezotWIUZY2axp8NTEB1S3F5IyuSuVkuotcKg/s400/P1060755.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another pass or two ahead!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD0QwUlQbT4j4jmccHXXLr_z4j321t0Hf7aafTV2bADjev7Da7D_gXyC_Gm273PwGzgvzsD05c4XYJW8_AGb4huPVgzOD8UvLnZr9NwvRet-FOKc3Ngn0pDCmetETslaqFb4p90Q/s1600/P1060763.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD0QwUlQbT4j4jmccHXXLr_z4j321t0Hf7aafTV2bADjev7Da7D_gXyC_Gm273PwGzgvzsD05c4XYJW8_AGb4huPVgzOD8UvLnZr9NwvRet-FOKc3Ngn0pDCmetETslaqFb4p90Q/s400/P1060763.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking back to Samar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV9CzZ05cpWj6syZZxkNy-_5vPVltyXRE8U15NVo9uUiGrJIvmCmIy36-abAids26L8Mp2gQ59r1FvZUZzSG4RzJp-lj0LEMyVp2q_8paY7SmuS_LD91-v0vJOjcmR0-Xbt91JUg/s1600/P1060764.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV9CzZ05cpWj6syZZxkNy-_5vPVltyXRE8U15NVo9uUiGrJIvmCmIy36-abAids26L8Mp2gQ59r1FvZUZzSG4RzJp-lj0LEMyVp2q_8paY7SmuS_LD91-v0vJOjcmR0-Xbt91JUg/s400/P1060764.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkt-u2uLf7nulvhP5T2vMts7w7AUGOyBPpSYeBVRmzOMPF9oCk82flhM0ACH5fmGqknVQA6uR-9rHnbqQ4wk0nDa8hLOdOHLoK4eDcnjzpU1N6dZgcLSHV3zU2kChiHRhOQPS2Sw/s1600/P1060767.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkt-u2uLf7nulvhP5T2vMts7w7AUGOyBPpSYeBVRmzOMPF9oCk82flhM0ACH5fmGqknVQA6uR-9rHnbqQ4wk0nDa8hLOdOHLoK4eDcnjzpU1N6dZgcLSHV3zU2kChiHRhOQPS2Sw/s400/P1060767.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4sBmN6qOrHMOiIreN7KdyNJTwYfU7MhICUmfXeKSsBXQ2cA292zWb-dcGV0cO_M-ZDaAwWmNO6kEwYG8CPr0rAzLI6TNDt_tbOu2nwk2WwINfQaM7ttsNgrTgWPtoQzGNBXjzHg/s1600/P1060768.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4sBmN6qOrHMOiIreN7KdyNJTwYfU7MhICUmfXeKSsBXQ2cA292zWb-dcGV0cO_M-ZDaAwWmNO6kEwYG8CPr0rAzLI6TNDt_tbOu2nwk2WwINfQaM7ttsNgrTgWPtoQzGNBXjzHg/s400/P1060768.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
high level narrow traverse flanked by juniper bushes brought us to some more
prayer flags, and then the enormity of what this alternative route meant was
laid before us. A very steep descent, leading to a narrow high level traverse
on one side of a steep canyon containing the Syangboche Khola, then a further
steep ascent to the village of Syangboche a long way ahead, but at about the
same elevation as we were at the pass. Gulp. Still, it had to be done, and the
descent was rapid, the traverse safe throughout and we eventually arrived at a
turn in the canyon. Here we found we had to make a steep climb, ultimately up
rock steps, to reach this most sacred of caves.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdRnwx37aWDD6zHA44jowOQBlb9iCXuGkbe1ctKnP07LtLv6AoQVpQkMRMm_pKbOaMf8Yhvvlka5k_yYcExhu9V7VlMKyDyc1TIi9tHK4oKb1EOjiigk7xPm_whveVfHkjOUctFA/s1600/P1060774.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdRnwx37aWDD6zHA44jowOQBlb9iCXuGkbe1ctKnP07LtLv6AoQVpQkMRMm_pKbOaMf8Yhvvlka5k_yYcExhu9V7VlMKyDyc1TIi9tHK4oKb1EOjiigk7xPm_whveVfHkjOUctFA/s400/P1060774.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Descent to the <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Chyungsi Rhangchung cave monastery</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXvhd4YgThr0eH5J3Iili6979m3i3UyLVHNPyhR4aPrO1j7hg02KmTHSeoj-43EkSsrIriqJ5TPoSAUhwly3RqzfmfThn5-CdO_He1kcYNawTBzAOUORdndk4CGDOcRizxXOmZzQ/s1600/P1060780.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXvhd4YgThr0eH5J3Iili6979m3i3UyLVHNPyhR4aPrO1j7hg02KmTHSeoj-43EkSsrIriqJ5TPoSAUhwly3RqzfmfThn5-CdO_He1kcYNawTBzAOUORdndk4CGDOcRizxXOmZzQ/s640/P1060780.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNh-x5za1DvbXRehqtQfY-HzsNDE-1hOfHm9nHOyaLaZ1L5WKitsbgr74BgOAqMHpjFRzAMW_RU2aKqExbD4iHUDEtzvl59oFwMyDpZj5awAh5V3GMby4nv3n2EwGCMTT-CeJxxw/s1600/P1060784.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNh-x5za1DvbXRehqtQfY-HzsNDE-1hOfHm9nHOyaLaZ1L5WKitsbgr74BgOAqMHpjFRzAMW_RU2aKqExbD4iHUDEtzvl59oFwMyDpZj5awAh5V3GMby4nv3n2EwGCMTT-CeJxxw/s400/P1060784.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1ZpNSRirPLbB68rDlCgZosVjgG4bMP5U1jC2dYmpbf-8QkSKkZGAc03HPMRAN5LNOTIUQfHdMIGBNGb3YHMbqhsep3ThA3nXncEYxF0KGsSuRgg226JDBBeuOHgBVm8Bk_rGzbg/s1600/P1060789.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1ZpNSRirPLbB68rDlCgZosVjgG4bMP5U1jC2dYmpbf-8QkSKkZGAc03HPMRAN5LNOTIUQfHdMIGBNGb3YHMbqhsep3ThA3nXncEYxF0KGsSuRgg226JDBBeuOHgBVm8Bk_rGzbg/s400/P1060789.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Climbing out of the canyon to reach the cave monastery</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Said
to have been a meditation site for the famed Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava) in
the 8th century, it is now home to a lama (away ill in Kathmandu) and a dumb
guardian. The cave is festooned with silk katas, chortens and all the usual paraphernalia
of Tibetan Buddhist iconography and ritual items. We lit butter lamps with our
guides as a mark of respect, took some photographs of the inner cave, then beat
a retreat back down the steep steps in order to commence the final grinding
climb out of the canyon. This took about 90 minutes and we had a late lunch at
a guesthouse in Syangboche at about 3800m. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhommyXV3sfWrMJFBRckZWJeXsmEusiQ0pxGRduKf62KvGCtKUiOF4mq_hq6kdQDnN_oS8kn6n4bI47phyCr9KrwQYZlxyqLQBaHzmWztelaG8U24g-Ws9e2g3KnqI2rUB18UKHPQ/s1600/P1060790.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhommyXV3sfWrMJFBRckZWJeXsmEusiQ0pxGRduKf62KvGCtKUiOF4mq_hq6kdQDnN_oS8kn6n4bI47phyCr9KrwQYZlxyqLQBaHzmWztelaG8U24g-Ws9e2g3KnqI2rUB18UKHPQ/s640/P1060790.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Chyungsi Rhangchung cave monastery</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfXkh2ESLRCrKJzMnTQHzpjh3A2Bi7Hf7OBN5Dy-ZmelPWexiKZrVLaQvSU6HEbwi873hHZ7Gvxj1DOX2JQt3QXMj6BhmuaIwzdrPvHCe_Tnn7b6K-mLQh7yWX3fLCEgO5VZ_mxw/s1600/P1060795.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfXkh2ESLRCrKJzMnTQHzpjh3A2Bi7Hf7OBN5Dy-ZmelPWexiKZrVLaQvSU6HEbwi873hHZ7Gvxj1DOX2JQt3QXMj6BhmuaIwzdrPvHCe_Tnn7b6K-mLQh7yWX3fLCEgO5VZ_mxw/s640/P1060795.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtnZQRk8-hxumpJUKjFkJqjTR63H1o0wfnkhKXVNypWiNofjzlulEMPLC5csNipK8qgIHWbtukWq6RomRJS1OxEoXceyIyPbqEu-sEORl6h3phKXiJWRJSmLPb3u-8GZRkLmkidA/s1600/P1060799.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtnZQRk8-hxumpJUKjFkJqjTR63H1o0wfnkhKXVNypWiNofjzlulEMPLC5csNipK8qgIHWbtukWq6RomRJS1OxEoXceyIyPbqEu-sEORl6h3phKXiJWRJSmLPb3u-8GZRkLmkidA/s400/P1060799.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibRUKwG9O0uOnuOyBDVHLj756WduIgyZ8MnRihJ_qceJ5RtRACP7s7_xFIenOvHRKRE8nvxBJqOyuTlkqBaCvor_yHn0Q5wWpufsxhqvO-ihCoxF_m96646_CtxUsRcRcwIgABsA/s1600/P1060810.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibRUKwG9O0uOnuOyBDVHLj756WduIgyZ8MnRihJ_qceJ5RtRACP7s7_xFIenOvHRKRE8nvxBJqOyuTlkqBaCvor_yHn0Q5wWpufsxhqvO-ihCoxF_m96646_CtxUsRcRcwIgABsA/s640/P1060810.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN0hC1wD1-tp8mdj44QEgaLdpSlIUNdt276tp4l7ZRPbIpt-lz_wtPj40uenNw3jbbNxwBq5so5GUQUHWQWGOxBD5lSYCUBrgi9zBaMD7DiUnKQ1oCwAGK-jFHRhnK7GHs6Nci2Q/s1600/P1060814.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN0hC1wD1-tp8mdj44QEgaLdpSlIUNdt276tp4l7ZRPbIpt-lz_wtPj40uenNw3jbbNxwBq5so5GUQUHWQWGOxBD5lSYCUBrgi9zBaMD7DiUnKQ1oCwAGK-jFHRhnK7GHs6Nci2Q/s640/P1060814.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More descent!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjcMBzORsaq8OHKZObRNrRkp0koyAW7VYazHGJEqEUNUn1hMqhyphenhyphenDnKhjEiNStSIQ5-tsnWarvzwtOlLEmTINrIQveCBFaWxJVr2oqp_UMGW7XsnGGDk32pufznHJ6f36t7XJH0bQ/s1600/P1060820.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjcMBzORsaq8OHKZObRNrRkp0koyAW7VYazHGJEqEUNUn1hMqhyphenhyphenDnKhjEiNStSIQ5-tsnWarvzwtOlLEmTINrIQveCBFaWxJVr2oqp_UMGW7XsnGGDk32pufznHJ6f36t7XJH0bQ/s640/P1060820.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The long grind out of the canyon to reach Syangboche La</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
final ascent to Syangboche La at 3850m was quickly despatched and another view
of the high altitude desert that typifies Upper Mustang unfolded before us in
the mid afternoon haze. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
now had a one hour descent to our camp for the night, in the village of Ghiling
(Geling), at 3570m. By now the usual strong wind from the south had blown up,
blasting dust on our backs and flying grit stinging the bare flesh on my arms.
This is a barren, inhospitable environment, but wondrous in its scale and
rawness. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvHtdOyONvKZycHDvCTa4U8w7Qz0NRl3-lhDbZlB7GhQPcsENigdaMkuBGiXBBJtGs3AQ_0lRwpsmWeUiZiHu_1L3KKtbspG_vCeEBhH8RVg4i4sNtfw8o_IzEuhw6xdsrc2gRTg/s1600/P1060837.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvHtdOyONvKZycHDvCTa4U8w7Qz0NRl3-lhDbZlB7GhQPcsENigdaMkuBGiXBBJtGs3AQ_0lRwpsmWeUiZiHu_1L3KKtbspG_vCeEBhH8RVg4i4sNtfw8o_IzEuhw6xdsrc2gRTg/s400/P1060837.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Geling 3570m</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0GMFzh2R6TP1XRmdHimOIv2cHbxtNlAtZRuPhzUz1dnttkA5CuxzaspVBqkNq3Xm1RSpeJCbO8v5CmeSIzBNWARSQznZppjvBdLQPFO5uI25ysqt1y4Vi5BLJamTWGmgDNfc1ZA/s1600/P1060839.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0GMFzh2R6TP1XRmdHimOIv2cHbxtNlAtZRuPhzUz1dnttkA5CuxzaspVBqkNq3Xm1RSpeJCbO8v5CmeSIzBNWARSQznZppjvBdLQPFO5uI25ysqt1y4Vi5BLJamTWGmgDNfc1ZA/s400/P1060839.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTMQ32Q7dRMtsDNoiMFsftUGztVeV9AdWDCspQ719xP0IOwlLcdoLJj4kYaz6uz_i9xZ5YseRNXsf-Okjl_ONdiZXzFEA9YSsc5n-XcO34ek4xK631w8wh_WtL02S2VfGoVqkLjQ/s1600/P1060842.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTMQ32Q7dRMtsDNoiMFsftUGztVeV9AdWDCspQ719xP0IOwlLcdoLJj4kYaz6uz_i9xZ5YseRNXsf-Okjl_ONdiZXzFEA9YSsc5n-XcO34ek4xK631w8wh_WtL02S2VfGoVqkLjQ/s400/P1060842.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camp at Geling</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
camp hadn't been set up when we arrived as it took quite a few chaps to hold
down tents in the wind, so, in time honoured fashion we repaired to the
adjacent teahouse for a swift beer or two...some things never change! Quite a
day...</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Sunday
27 May</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
disturbed night. Just as I was dropping off the locals decided to use up the
last of the explosive used in recent Tsechu celebrations. Kaboom! Heart went
racing, wide awake again. Eventually slipped into sleep, then the dogs started.
Not quite symphonic in nature, just random bursts of extremely irritating
barks. All night.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Anyway
it was a pleasant enough start to the new day, and after breakfast we visited
the nearby Sakya gompa, high above the houses with highly decorated chortens
guarding the entrance. We were welcomed by a lone monk who had been beating a
large drum as part of his early morning ritual. He showed us a severed hand,
400 years old, said to have been cut off by a man himself having made a small
error on a thangka painting.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1IkoJ_ZvWeqlKBgUqJaaeUlIdtEtEIiZKxdQujqsHjCB9rlFw4_IaRdX1wJyGCR025eMRdT090T-VQCEWNT0tVjNXeuemmHt2Tu1aQQ_HZyNDEWn_jQgc1k2dqhaiwI_txXA9fw/s1600/P1060846.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1IkoJ_ZvWeqlKBgUqJaaeUlIdtEtEIiZKxdQujqsHjCB9rlFw4_IaRdX1wJyGCR025eMRdT090T-VQCEWNT0tVjNXeuemmHt2Tu1aQQ_HZyNDEWn_jQgc1k2dqhaiwI_txXA9fw/s400/P1060846.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Goats among the mani stones<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYSsjhZYWSUz0qEydXcOm9HoByhf64j3i70moW05D5wclvvh0c3AAdB3f1JUzg6lgL8_9rlKEmZf5lKeidEHg95iVlHF-96V9ZBoB5X2_aeW0mGUxyv7x_wD18BHM9wsazaQ02aQ/s1600/P1060851.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYSsjhZYWSUz0qEydXcOm9HoByhf64j3i70moW05D5wclvvh0c3AAdB3f1JUzg6lgL8_9rlKEmZf5lKeidEHg95iVlHF-96V9ZBoB5X2_aeW0mGUxyv7x_wD18BHM9wsazaQ02aQ/s640/P1060851.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chorten at Geling</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglAoaoFhInLSj_L48Jrmxcqi4tya2QUYPpfv1g6KdForKmTFgcUsK6ejZqRy5yXIr588Cn46uuS-E1yjA76MkO0_vivOv2u6HjRCrEKHVT9I0h9mnj5-u2MyE0UJ03u_LrYXD_iQ/s1600/P1060856.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglAoaoFhInLSj_L48Jrmxcqi4tya2QUYPpfv1g6KdForKmTFgcUsK6ejZqRy5yXIr588Cn46uuS-E1yjA76MkO0_vivOv2u6HjRCrEKHVT9I0h9mnj5-u2MyE0UJ03u_LrYXD_iQ/s640/P1060856.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monk showing us a 400 year old severed hand...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk9RpV7-Gf-dz5kBjik2eze4baoGaguAF7963tgi2pyliib5dA-gGPPZPh3rduqiAsUamMKbuxyMugYgUBNaF4i8yFXz5KhGnrLFu5LSEVkRdP0V8swCYi3qwI2ID7XfsMARl2ww/s1600/P1060857.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk9RpV7-Gf-dz5kBjik2eze4baoGaguAF7963tgi2pyliib5dA-gGPPZPh3rduqiAsUamMKbuxyMugYgUBNaF4i8yFXz5KhGnrLFu5LSEVkRdP0V8swCYi3qwI2ID7XfsMARl2ww/s400/P1060857.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wall murals in the Sakya gompa in Geling</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtgovstWD6r0-_CmQ4HjgPj67NNTzYZTYfErYMzt4FS3lbfIYKFRsP1J-cib0HcQzwNrwTxQijBn_WwOOIrtYEFepWKrhm1vkTzHL2tQr_aqdSMF_OdIhGpOKTa3DIzv8uNz2bDg/s1600/P1060863.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtgovstWD6r0-_CmQ4HjgPj67NNTzYZTYfErYMzt4FS3lbfIYKFRsP1J-cib0HcQzwNrwTxQijBn_WwOOIrtYEFepWKrhm1vkTzHL2tQr_aqdSMF_OdIhGpOKTa3DIzv8uNz2bDg/s640/P1060863.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Richard with ancient gun in the gompa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDIL2RyMNL4RnZOOBuDSYAFw3FwmrK2E-EY1GJArtqfaYiDZoVC31i0oAHo6YH4m97sXrdpcYNpiEKTJE0GQj4dKx8qhqQmUaYLXnKWfwjIC8VtzcBBaRCaewtPHUfRZjoXfeO_w/s1600/P1060869.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDIL2RyMNL4RnZOOBuDSYAFw3FwmrK2E-EY1GJArtqfaYiDZoVC31i0oAHo6YH4m97sXrdpcYNpiEKTJE0GQj4dKx8qhqQmUaYLXnKWfwjIC8VtzcBBaRCaewtPHUfRZjoXfeO_w/s400/P1060869.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nyi La 4020m</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">As
we walked away, the drumming resumed, followed by the usual horn blowing.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
walked away from Geling, steadily gaining height on a wide barren plain, and
then a good path brought us swiftly to our first pass of the day, Nyi La,
4020m, with huge views south to the snow capped Himalaya, albeit quite hazy
this morning, and barren brown desert like hills to the north. An easy
contouring path brought us to another small pass, Ghami La 3645m, this time
with views north to the village of Ghami 3510m and its extensive barley fields.
A short steep descent brought us on to a more gradual path into the village,
home to Mustang's longest mani wall (about 300m long), and a good clean
teahouse just as we entered the village. Great lemon tea.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF-HmbArVy-BE_DIAlsVXE7A9hGPh2yJcTKxgKrQabDX4FBi_8tZs-GY8yFB7lyL8W9rU3EfVirZAEkIrCGe7GhaRMjKWkLPk_7zbpM3peJvtSBE9jcjNkovO9OUh3b9uIt4VANQ/s1600/P1060891.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF-HmbArVy-BE_DIAlsVXE7A9hGPh2yJcTKxgKrQabDX4FBi_8tZs-GY8yFB7lyL8W9rU3EfVirZAEkIrCGe7GhaRMjKWkLPk_7zbpM3peJvtSBE9jcjNkovO9OUh3b9uIt4VANQ/s640/P1060891.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaving Ghami</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
village is quite decrepit but full of character with various decorated stupas
and chortens. We climbed down to the river beyond, and then started up a climb
to the end of a spur, affording extensive views to the Annapurna and Mukti
Himalaya ranges, a vast swathe of 6000m plus peaks to our west, and an exciting
red sandstone canyon directly ahead of us. The path from here took us gently
down to the isolated village of Dhakmar 3820m, in time for a late lunch
prepared by our crew. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnoEslq78_SNO5uvlOB3f1K7SZgNZc6Yv7p5i7jpe0ggQleIlMqBaiShZLp-MpqA_5-pE4Q9Lvl0Ko7fDMUOLvxy7t-Co3jLgjfO802pBTQNhWDvr0Mrt4mN8HGaeEQ1WXgkr04A/s1600/P1060900.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnoEslq78_SNO5uvlOB3f1K7SZgNZc6Yv7p5i7jpe0ggQleIlMqBaiShZLp-MpqA_5-pE4Q9Lvl0Ko7fDMUOLvxy7t-Co3jLgjfO802pBTQNhWDvr0Mrt4mN8HGaeEQ1WXgkr04A/s400/P1060900.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNgYoXkvJ1k7VPpLWkdgViKL6uLqC72s8G1JzWpTUEfggLYkrud-jhT0_jun0-u6usLWFvvLL_IJEgNU-2OB81w3tLp0UX2BWSflWYvos7KWB3gfy8rhY5omGRPgXx4et1HTrz8w/s1600/P1060902.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNgYoXkvJ1k7VPpLWkdgViKL6uLqC72s8G1JzWpTUEfggLYkrud-jhT0_jun0-u6usLWFvvLL_IJEgNU-2OB81w3tLp0UX2BWSflWYvos7KWB3gfy8rhY5omGRPgXx4et1HTrz8w/s640/P1060902.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approach to Dhakmar 3820m<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMK2ghmAJppoN5erbP1d1Nz2AosrJTTMh0uI_dMbK0cE9VsuEV_xk7zv3UNnn0pGdS5P4tkLdh40EX-7qPD-mBzrwt2Bhx0G1y7vMw1c-mv_Us5N-ihfNen6INlvtMKgJJnCKqzQ/s1600/P1060906.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMK2ghmAJppoN5erbP1d1Nz2AosrJTTMh0uI_dMbK0cE9VsuEV_xk7zv3UNnn0pGdS5P4tkLdh40EX-7qPD-mBzrwt2Bhx0G1y7vMw1c-mv_Us5N-ihfNen6INlvtMKgJJnCKqzQ/s400/P1060906.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjINdmbOkmsdgN7pcHv98F5dymcRB-ZTqIRNs26xOyAO8joN2smubvE7dXDDSvCtKS5g6J5sOYl0WaEHNIoKiD7tvgTHk4GlAfGAEV-tIAaw_gP0xxAKLiC-uWOzF5neB2foOR0OQ/s1600/P1060913.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjINdmbOkmsdgN7pcHv98F5dymcRB-ZTqIRNs26xOyAO8joN2smubvE7dXDDSvCtKS5g6J5sOYl0WaEHNIoKiD7tvgTHk4GlAfGAEV-tIAaw_gP0xxAKLiC-uWOzF5neB2foOR0OQ/s400/P1060913.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US">Dhakmar nestles under magnificent red sandstone cliffs,
with many caves that have been excavated, presumably for meditation or burial
purposes. We arrived just as the daily southerly started up, with clouds of dust
flying at speed as our boots kicked up the fine dust on the path. Nice spot for
an overnight though, with a cuckoo serenading from the meditation caves above
and an eagle soaring above the valley in front of the campsite, showing off in
the blustery winds with its superb aerodynamic abilities. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS3MqyFi7gbFeqFoKcCBIY-lqr4XbOY2ALS2kNhs1PkjuPTg1m2CcsJiv3xSBtaPMBBCyGr-NPZVJbmr-wZZ8Uesx15KkTdZxGTLmkCp17RdYxCohvNv2V2eeeZd5P1kpw-8qkGA/s1600/P1060926.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS3MqyFi7gbFeqFoKcCBIY-lqr4XbOY2ALS2kNhs1PkjuPTg1m2CcsJiv3xSBtaPMBBCyGr-NPZVJbmr-wZZ8Uesx15KkTdZxGTLmkCp17RdYxCohvNv2V2eeeZd5P1kpw-8qkGA/s400/P1060926.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dhakmar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJngHA0lYtONZ1qHKwssmLXyKK1GVQL99sZSa3SiVl_fpqwwhJ_pLQbzPNXVog-3xr-COCWzBDg7o__Bi1iTijEKKqzPcbwusUwW38MIbg1Sz2NvKHCMmwp_IgGimv4Ksh-RGBXA/s1600/P1060927.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJngHA0lYtONZ1qHKwssmLXyKK1GVQL99sZSa3SiVl_fpqwwhJ_pLQbzPNXVog-3xr-COCWzBDg7o__Bi1iTijEKKqzPcbwusUwW38MIbg1Sz2NvKHCMmwp_IgGimv4Ksh-RGBXA/s320/P1060927.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnboAJHHl9Ho8xDNvgsIKLZOJ8Y4IXsBy0WeaDKBIBofQ2DM-jyRPxY704i0IDbjkt94kiUXFQ24V4MlKURr8YojLlJN0M_PvRoa9Qgy1dU7rWJnsAfQoTT1a0PIjYO2bBRGOQaQ/s1600/P1060952.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnboAJHHl9Ho8xDNvgsIKLZOJ8Y4IXsBy0WeaDKBIBofQ2DM-jyRPxY704i0IDbjkt94kiUXFQ24V4MlKURr8YojLlJN0M_PvRoa9Qgy1dU7rWJnsAfQoTT1a0PIjYO2bBRGOQaQ/s640/P1060952.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camp at Dhakmar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Monday
28 May</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
big day ahead, following a reasonable nights kip, the village dogs doing their
usual night-time serenade.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">It
was quite chilly this morning despite clear skies, as we are at 3820m and in
the shade of the sandstone cliffs directly above us to the east.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguV-JCLmtm7dpzaT2u0tPul74GOaGo8bYsud-j4a42ponXIqjorHNez81Bxz5VfIW1ByYNs0KEOJgFx8AyAw3XlzUy_zdgM6Ca5FGev5kxP5YM9i_ObPvX845Zl0WwacdldCE5cw/s1600/P1060954.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguV-JCLmtm7dpzaT2u0tPul74GOaGo8bYsud-j4a42ponXIqjorHNez81Bxz5VfIW1ByYNs0KEOJgFx8AyAw3XlzUy_zdgM6Ca5FGev5kxP5YM9i_ObPvX845Zl0WwacdldCE5cw/s400/P1060954.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Distilling alcohol to produce local 'hooch', Dhakmar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Off
at 0700 again, a multiple pass day but with the objective of reaching our
ultimate goal, the capital of Mustang, Lo Manthang. Passing through the upper
reaches of the village, we could see extensive barley cultivation and herds of
goats, about the sum of farming up here. Crossing a stream the first big pull
of the day was ahead of us, about 200m up a rocky gully, somewhat similar to
the rock formations of Zabriskie Point in Death Valley. Everyone made quick
progress up this and the views at the top were stupendous, the white capped
peaks of the Annapurnas once again doing their thing, and a decent view of
Annapurna I this time too. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh13up7TbueOZ7qMeXy58OqVf4ooQSy9D2Tpp0lpHt1RHaSS0BEuYlP-hOjrMZ5ENs67CU1OhybRcqBXJsmynq5T5upn66LNs25X16dVYV0_0dC8OkiJ9OtstHzMyOUWFvSX28K1Q/s1600/P1060960.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh13up7TbueOZ7qMeXy58OqVf4ooQSy9D2Tpp0lpHt1RHaSS0BEuYlP-hOjrMZ5ENs67CU1OhybRcqBXJsmynq5T5upn66LNs25X16dVYV0_0dC8OkiJ9OtstHzMyOUWFvSX28K1Q/s400/P1060960.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ascent of the passes north of Dhakmar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsHqnrotw1SXP9PBabV0_5P8vwmjtU-whcpUZ0fAjQyMMmS6wPLoQATv0h7mTg6PVO_2KwkWGKrrKx4f_t_Dnt03jaZslBPFbrU0vLGS-xLtMEjl_eLFqgcvL5-q3UiCRPW0kLNA/s1600/P1060963.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsHqnrotw1SXP9PBabV0_5P8vwmjtU-whcpUZ0fAjQyMMmS6wPLoQATv0h7mTg6PVO_2KwkWGKrrKx4f_t_Dnt03jaZslBPFbrU0vLGS-xLtMEjl_eLFqgcvL5-q3UiCRPW0kLNA/s400/P1060963.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Views south ... awesome!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq7QlvjTq6QvYH19sXq3mEJHgQ4hyphenhyphentYCZ9SX0gxnQs1aDKjVX98sYUyLqAmNHx6g8S4OamOr4ZYK7M8XHYWBrYixPQD78njYZS1EZmE1RMFN5B7URY4K8PlBZDvrGEiFrue4UdXA/s1600/P1060972.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq7QlvjTq6QvYH19sXq3mEJHgQ4hyphenhyphentYCZ9SX0gxnQs1aDKjVX98sYUyLqAmNHx6g8S4OamOr4ZYK7M8XHYWBrYixPQD78njYZS1EZmE1RMFN5B7URY4K8PlBZDvrGEiFrue4UdXA/s400/P1060972.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Happy days!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US">An easy plod brought us to the next pass, Muila
Bhanjyang at 4170m, a new height record for the team, with views forward to our
first stopping point of the day, the famous Ghar Gompa, situated in a valley
above Lo Gekar at 3920m. This is a famous Nyingma monastery, established after
a visit by the Indian mystic Padmasambhava, in an effort to subdue the 'demons'
that were preventing the construction of the first monastery in Tibet, Samye.
It's a fairly small gompa, excellently situated, with six resident monks and
the usual guardian, who was most helpful. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6YmbGMNZyiwCKOXc2ZSAS37iIitZOWohhbrHtA-r-S7slSE11BEoW7IbQkMdV_rCEpruGKn763S0Z9YOZlYcQWPBd5I_wkCyLbYIVcdfoGF3ETrXYW-1_uAurmVcm-iP_uDQCZA/s1600/P1060980.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6YmbGMNZyiwCKOXc2ZSAS37iIitZOWohhbrHtA-r-S7slSE11BEoW7IbQkMdV_rCEpruGKn763S0Z9YOZlYcQWPBd5I_wkCyLbYIVcdfoGF3ETrXYW-1_uAurmVcm-iP_uDQCZA/s640/P1060980.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approaching Ghar Gompa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuBDDJEqwleg7MkG3oPp7in-L66l9P4dhqvwXxnnoy2i1URyQYcWofpRmD8x887DwWAVHtByvxJQYIBcxBYsKod6cVqK7ay5F-pJV0sYIxy0ca0roo5NQ_UXV35521ge57Jd3ykA/s1600/P1060983.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuBDDJEqwleg7MkG3oPp7in-L66l9P4dhqvwXxnnoy2i1URyQYcWofpRmD8x887DwWAVHtByvxJQYIBcxBYsKod6cVqK7ay5F-pJV0sYIxy0ca0roo5NQ_UXV35521ge57Jd3ykA/s400/P1060983.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ghar Gompa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgruoBaGQyC5wig0eXxu2gXnEUsQ9VSo_KFGhZZ17QFXzUM1wJcTKBqEnnetAhrpVu5WPySNzKBruNR8lTlzaOKyhyphenhyphensYS6Cow0ghEn4RoEEvQl8z9ecjyluIGr6gBIBs2Tyak10mQ/s1600/P1060989.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgruoBaGQyC5wig0eXxu2gXnEUsQ9VSo_KFGhZZ17QFXzUM1wJcTKBqEnnetAhrpVu5WPySNzKBruNR8lTlzaOKyhyphenhyphensYS6Cow0ghEn4RoEEvQl8z9ecjyluIGr6gBIBs2Tyak10mQ/s640/P1060989.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US">The monks were chanting in readiness
for the forthcoming Saga Dawa festival, and many women from surrounding
villages were congregating in another part of the monastery for the same
purpose. Shown around inside, unfortunately no photos allowed this time, it was
notable that the iconography was all about Padmasambhava and assorted wrathful
deities rather than images of the Buddha. The monks were chatty in between
chanting, and we eventually repaired to another part of the monastery to light
butter lamps as a devotional to the Buddha and in respect to our hosts. A nice
visit and we were made very welcome. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Late
morning now, and a bit of work still to do, crossing a gully and then a long
slog up a featureless valley, which eventually took us to Marang La 4230m, and
a quick picnic lunch in the strong midday sunshine.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWroIukSe0Gv4SEN_B1CcIbg-fV61DBpwDTf0PopycrsiXCxWfMdqL36lnQh9QMX8VvWStVjJkAq1zhyYDaEnN5mYxuBSncZAtUflkQ02-00kiXR8KHNlq8YACa-YJ9jrBY7F1Jw/s1600/P1070004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWroIukSe0Gv4SEN_B1CcIbg-fV61DBpwDTf0PopycrsiXCxWfMdqL36lnQh9QMX8VvWStVjJkAq1zhyYDaEnN5mYxuBSncZAtUflkQ02-00kiXR8KHNlq8YACa-YJ9jrBY7F1Jw/s400/P1070004.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marang La 4230m</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Ahead
of us to the west we could see the mountains of the Kekyap Danda, rising above
6000m, and the snow cap of Kyangkung Dula 6037m. To the north and east, a new
high altitude desert landscape revealed itself, multi-coluored by mineral salts
that have evaporated out of the rocks. This was a long descent, and finally Lo
Manthang came into view in the distance, set amidst a small oasis of poplar
trees and barley fields, and sheep and goats grazing the lower pastures. Once
again, amazing vistas, but tired feet took the shine off the final hours'
walking, and we were mightily glad to reach the camp site just outside the city
walls. Amazingly we have not seen one other trekker all day! </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">More
on Lo Manthang when the energy returns tomorrow!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiC4n9CaRx39-32hVmF0nV50RuENsxG1HeWZtLWgVpZgreXjMQmbHsJx7CZNlpbOjtQ8DpSeFjK765RxgLhjM8A5SauNSfBRFHNNSCv8V1mzEpUUXyvZtPFFnRWsAFYYgHTMJCXg/s1600/P1070026.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiC4n9CaRx39-32hVmF0nV50RuENsxG1HeWZtLWgVpZgreXjMQmbHsJx7CZNlpbOjtQ8DpSeFjK765RxgLhjM8A5SauNSfBRFHNNSCv8V1mzEpUUXyvZtPFFnRWsAFYYgHTMJCXg/s400/P1070026.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approaching Lo Manthang</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGq25rkmP9FERJ6KzD_jIruXGzdUpbDVY4Ts7KQVaT6CeJC-thQJcC6SjjcQx2Q1Q7LhP4mfmsFtVBmpu-QBBhu2h168LxKIY8ZBmeq4Udq6UYbO_RaK6kY2VWYQmawKLI_-8cUw/s1600/P1070030.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGq25rkmP9FERJ6KzD_jIruXGzdUpbDVY4Ts7KQVaT6CeJC-thQJcC6SjjcQx2Q1Q7LhP4mfmsFtVBmpu-QBBhu2h168LxKIY8ZBmeq4Udq6UYbO_RaK6kY2VWYQmawKLI_-8cUw/s640/P1070030.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here at last!!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8RQ-sNJWc-uLSBey_tQ6VwhUFNE6FPQA67y_9kUBhPHfJbwi3ZzPQhPlHTVsnXxCFkSQiFkp0-UbnJuPlmwOF6DUepXmZZJ6qa7j_S6kM322rBBJ5-HjmIi9uFeriAoWyPuxP3Q/s1600/P1070149.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8RQ-sNJWc-uLSBey_tQ6VwhUFNE6FPQA67y_9kUBhPHfJbwi3ZzPQhPlHTVsnXxCFkSQiFkp0-UbnJuPlmwOF6DUepXmZZJ6qa7j_S6kM322rBBJ5-HjmIi9uFeriAoWyPuxP3Q/s400/P1070149.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camp in Lo Manthang</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Tuesday
29 May</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">An
uneventful night, thankfully with no dogs barking and just the sound of a herd
of goats in a pen next to our camp, their bells jangling gently through the
night.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
nice morning, cooler in the early breeze, and a late start today as we were to
spend a day exploring the ancient walled town of Lo Manthang. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiBcphFe4xklb2zPKdjdyz_XpVYKqc5M5SJ-9UV_NKAdsO7HPzx6nrO-oJAsoRd6TmfbKfLvSROKzzaOZOJHNI3U6ec0eTl3fV9m_QtvUZlTT_xl9WUAo3ewQ-ZflbdAsnflZ6KA/s1600/P1070036.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiBcphFe4xklb2zPKdjdyz_XpVYKqc5M5SJ-9UV_NKAdsO7HPzx6nrO-oJAsoRd6TmfbKfLvSROKzzaOZOJHNI3U6ec0eTl3fV9m_QtvUZlTT_xl9WUAo3ewQ-ZflbdAsnflZ6KA/s400/P1070036.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The city gate of Lo Manthang, capital of the ancient kingdom of Lo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSBLAM2iwD7HePjeQ7zdx7XWX1mr60zy8NmWWPdS3M1f_UvgVkKu_33OIWA9OVYgQMxprEgiFA1dgexRhp9cZftsPf34ObFFXs74SPZsat3D98M2R4XAdp5R5qgQhd7c6puGcoPA/s1600/P1070042.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSBLAM2iwD7HePjeQ7zdx7XWX1mr60zy8NmWWPdS3M1f_UvgVkKu_33OIWA9OVYgQMxprEgiFA1dgexRhp9cZftsPf34ObFFXs74SPZsat3D98M2R4XAdp5R5qgQhd7c6puGcoPA/s400/P1070042.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">First
we visited the Monastic Museum which forms part of the Tsechen Shedrubling
Monastic School at Choede Monastery, just inside the city walls. Students, some
as young as six, were assembling for morning classes and the Principal,Chhing
Chhyope, gave generously of his time to show us around. Ancient masks for
festival dances, thangkas over a thousand years old, and many ancient ritual
artefacts. Fascinating stuff. Like other monasteries within Lo Manthang, this
facility is slowly being improved with funding from the American Himalayan
Foundation and the Swiss Schulverein Lo Manthang.</span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Next,
we were privileged to be shown the stupa hidden away in a small but highly
decorated room, containing the remains of the lama who helped this community in
the early days.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrVWZYfk3iSR_-45c4B9eV1py8WAfEMPp8Epe2Zp2QIEBKBJhVfGrWVk0WlHPi-v5dD2nehcPUW_xhpuR1VwLV-s3Nwp7riCQwI7QI_WtU7YW7GY2vmBZC8OCURLR7R5AZx8XU8g/s1600/P1070045.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrVWZYfk3iSR_-45c4B9eV1py8WAfEMPp8Epe2Zp2QIEBKBJhVfGrWVk0WlHPi-v5dD2nehcPUW_xhpuR1VwLV-s3Nwp7riCQwI7QI_WtU7YW7GY2vmBZC8OCURLR7R5AZx8XU8g/s400/P1070045.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Tsechen Shedrubling Monastic School at Choede Monastery</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifRSnsVEs11kwEnYpmQctzGHhum3MWO86lkguR1k3-79s9_0i5mwQVP-Y-33Q6uaHsrseCm2ZsdBJg8WyjEUAUbzSB5BBjoQrhDz4T8C_QIiEBe00qv2DV_9IBkKg088_V0FqEpg/s1600/P1070049.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifRSnsVEs11kwEnYpmQctzGHhum3MWO86lkguR1k3-79s9_0i5mwQVP-Y-33Q6uaHsrseCm2ZsdBJg8WyjEUAUbzSB5BBjoQrhDz4T8C_QIiEBe00qv2DV_9IBkKg088_V0FqEpg/s400/P1070049.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sand mandala instruction for young monks</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">On
to the main monastery on the site, the Dragkar-Thegchen Ling Gompa, first
established during the reign of the first king of Lo, King Ama Pal, by the
scholar Ngorchen Kunga Sangpo in the 13th century. It is now the premier gompa
for the region and is of the Sakya order.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
moved on through the characterful walled city, the people of the town really
impressing us with their friendly welcome, from the throaty 'Namaste' from the
weathered old guys at the only city gate, or from random people on the street,
women hauling rocks for a new guesthouse, or the lady plying good Illy coffee
opposite the mani wall and chortens greeting visitors entering the city from
the north.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Our
next stop was the tallest gompa in the city, Jampa Gompa, built during the
reign of the second son of Ama Pal in the 14th century. Sporting large tantric
mandalas on the walls and a large Maitreya Buddha (Jampa Chempo) in meditative
posture, this monastery is undergoing a slow process of restoration. Great
views are had from the roof over the whole city, enabling you to peer down into
the many courtyard dwellings clustered around the gompas and the royal palace.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMFoY20ldmQ1IzBRMDJ9yUUCYTyMq3eKi97wj8NJJiAoTAL9qGHMtgzvhkCqqryqL0Nvx69Gdq3HpBEgvb5WbPSvXBDfjX9Ilr6FLdzN1tpPK2oMhG07W2dsXL6CVRgGu4GfSQOQ/s1600/P1070060.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMFoY20ldmQ1IzBRMDJ9yUUCYTyMq3eKi97wj8NJJiAoTAL9qGHMtgzvhkCqqryqL0Nvx69Gdq3HpBEgvb5WbPSvXBDfjX9Ilr6FLdzN1tpPK2oMhG07W2dsXL6CVRgGu4GfSQOQ/s400/P1070060.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rooftops of Lo Manthang from the Jampa Gompa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx-nMgkO_jUesBodYEsHuK1GblkEDsIF7cCzmotlN5lNr26NXnoY1uxGGPNSX86hI7WA73vvs9rt8SBP9ZEf7yY8-gvZZIo163qt62AW35pF-Yo6-KJnbAKQV4AnRbR1ynEqfPwg/s1600/P1070063.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx-nMgkO_jUesBodYEsHuK1GblkEDsIF7cCzmotlN5lNr26NXnoY1uxGGPNSX86hI7WA73vvs9rt8SBP9ZEf7yY8-gvZZIo163qt62AW35pF-Yo6-KJnbAKQV4AnRbR1ynEqfPwg/s400/P1070063.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
final visit of the morning was to the adjacent Thupchen Gompa, built during the
reign of the third king of Lo in the 15th century. This is a hugely impressive
monastery, and we met an Italian couple who have spent the last eleven summers
helping to clean and renovate the intricate wall murals, mainly featuring
various manifestations of the Buddha. Painstaking work, using local rocks and
minerals to recreate the original colouration. We were shown a block of
cinnabar, a mercuric compound used to give a red tint. Elsewhere women were
preparing intricate pinpoint stencils. Marvellous work, again funded by the
American Himalayan Foundation. Other features of the monastery included statues
of the four Guardian Kings in the entrance vestibule and images of Chenrezig,
Manjushri, and Guru Rinpoche as a central feature. Beautiful work throughout
and really worth a look as renovations progress in the years ahead.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXIxuPY3sYHHx_jYDL92GSHYapYPueDe4-MQsn8PeX0rdPJG-CxHtPbP5vZDZV9z_8cMipBs08mEl0ti2CzpENTfGLluTgGCvHjOStydbgPpU5b3CTevJS5urW_vrfGDYbzOYnug/s1600/P1070065.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXIxuPY3sYHHx_jYDL92GSHYapYPueDe4-MQsn8PeX0rdPJG-CxHtPbP5vZDZV9z_8cMipBs08mEl0ti2CzpENTfGLluTgGCvHjOStydbgPpU5b3CTevJS5urW_vrfGDYbzOYnug/s400/P1070065.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Street scenes in Lo Manthang</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqiAQETabxJY8ewxCaJMVFt7NEH4h3uuSVt2WmhLxpX6vD8Mf_L1CseoolxXZ_cAal7r8HNZJeLdRrnXzcmiKkPOEkrR_LYwYYZdojVnDDNBZ9G6sGtNBEmCvZpRJiTUfTpr2WUQ/s1600/P1070068.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqiAQETabxJY8ewxCaJMVFt7NEH4h3uuSVt2WmhLxpX6vD8Mf_L1CseoolxXZ_cAal7r8HNZJeLdRrnXzcmiKkPOEkrR_LYwYYZdojVnDDNBZ9G6sGtNBEmCvZpRJiTUfTpr2WUQ/s400/P1070068.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfdbabc2KM78YQIRMYhhj0iohTmBsZaiYvjDY1zQ5OLUaVSgq3_hFKHaFZ0VTBPLtRVc0gPh91ImTuaK9pScdtVop9jPIxukYGPxV3Ppic7TVJRoUqIaF8evgK04KiYLhxC0KZ-w/s1600/P1070069.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfdbabc2KM78YQIRMYhhj0iohTmBsZaiYvjDY1zQ5OLUaVSgq3_hFKHaFZ0VTBPLtRVc0gPh91ImTuaK9pScdtVop9jPIxukYGPxV3Ppic7TVJRoUqIaF8evgK04KiYLhxC0KZ-w/s400/P1070069.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chorten in Lo Manthang</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUkQfQOTOEnXGEIEFcruMl7ZgcYpFt5vJ9p0z5eX4w5PaNc249IgUqiDyh9Zb7sxsxYlzVYps15wqdidvc16DcwtfG2AYyOHnKOtHZwhisdjGh7ZZgE7SobF8cC9h1KnKRdTNo8Q/s1600/P1070073.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUkQfQOTOEnXGEIEFcruMl7ZgcYpFt5vJ9p0z5eX4w5PaNc249IgUqiDyh9Zb7sxsxYlzVYps15wqdidvc16DcwtfG2AYyOHnKOtHZwhisdjGh7ZZgE7SobF8cC9h1KnKRdTNo8Q/s400/P1070073.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The walled town of Lo Manthang</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoxBHKvIWADvi7_H_i0El93AHJ2CIBBQ95J0ASGGXqEsybHjwYBhZ7tkbhpn6ZzKfU-Rh99kzTWpfDYCTFRYygmKG-jwmMc2WST71rbHlMiNyub9ObTDTrhJ1dwVTNrjqCzke23g/s1600/P1070075.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoxBHKvIWADvi7_H_i0El93AHJ2CIBBQ95J0ASGGXqEsybHjwYBhZ7tkbhpn6ZzKfU-Rh99kzTWpfDYCTFRYygmKG-jwmMc2WST71rbHlMiNyub9ObTDTrhJ1dwVTNrjqCzke23g/s400/P1070075.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNerMCXjxgxhgIEs68_F-r0O2mkldAqTIkjYCLy1NBnse53yUbNDFR2YYnv8x9uHCAwkAX5iKD_nh-MYe4mkx-MNCzX-Szib6pPpD101nOJtY9p49ImNnIrAznvDxzyHuAyOkI0w/s1600/P1070082.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNerMCXjxgxhgIEs68_F-r0O2mkldAqTIkjYCLy1NBnse53yUbNDFR2YYnv8x9uHCAwkAX5iKD_nh-MYe4mkx-MNCzX-Szib6pPpD101nOJtY9p49ImNnIrAznvDxzyHuAyOkI0w/s400/P1070082.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Buddhist mantra carved into yak horn</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Some
chill time back at the camp and an early lunch preceded a walk up to the
Namgyal Gompa which sits to the north west of the city on a ridge. This is a
Gelug monastery but was closed as extensive rebuilding is underway here too.
Vast landscapes seen from this vantage point, and we could see the cloud plumes
streaming off the peaks to the south, including Gangapurna and Annapurna I.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">On
our descent we passed through a really traditional Tibetan village. Following a
sandy track in the blustery afternoon wind, we gained views down the Nhichung
Khola, a northern extension of the Kali Gandhaki, with magnificent rockscapes
extending all the way to the Tibetan border, now only 15-20km to the north. So
near, but yet so far...</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfYj-Ythd5iuo_pI8EUbIpo7cc44TOFe0Qm-whPSZYihyRwvAiAhZ4sjz3G3gnFYZL-USQJEjGjFB_W8f8s2wakNH62mgNnWyAdag73ed2ngbyC463Hi5e9LY2S_Y4TDW7j1_jYA/s1600/P1070089.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfYj-Ythd5iuo_pI8EUbIpo7cc44TOFe0Qm-whPSZYihyRwvAiAhZ4sjz3G3gnFYZL-USQJEjGjFB_W8f8s2wakNH62mgNnWyAdag73ed2ngbyC463Hi5e9LY2S_Y4TDW7j1_jYA/s400/P1070089.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bricks drying in the sun outside Lo Manthang</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN4ouGmjAZJwa4NvnllZnWKrg1ORy6JRqmXM94Fw0-XRRqRNwqSQOjd46L58SfHRxLPhkpShJEzbkmAbKbMsvFUTp3f3_80B4KuXP0BVQTkCTH34F_vYVnT3F69IBhwghq5ZWIAA/s1600/P1070117.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN4ouGmjAZJwa4NvnllZnWKrg1ORy6JRqmXM94Fw0-XRRqRNwqSQOjd46L58SfHRxLPhkpShJEzbkmAbKbMsvFUTp3f3_80B4KuXP0BVQTkCTH34F_vYVnT3F69IBhwghq5ZWIAA/s400/P1070117.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yak dung drying out...good for burning in stoves!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicf-wyI0HhV_jL8CBVUIuPmPiAD39viHbg3vZWj29OF8xbnKrGdaVL8gB3jTvp9edPFcgE4QR7Qsd90rp7E4Mkd5su8FXLKjKzop9bG1BumVXjUgZp2TAn3EiO4qehA1wmX0Zhag/s1600/P1070123.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicf-wyI0HhV_jL8CBVUIuPmPiAD39viHbg3vZWj29OF8xbnKrGdaVL8gB3jTvp9edPFcgE4QR7Qsd90rp7E4Mkd5su8FXLKjKzop9bG1BumVXjUgZp2TAn3EiO4qehA1wmX0Zhag/s400/P1070123.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking south to Lo Manthang, the Himalaya on the skyline</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCJZ6PdQhlv1J8pwpQMWmUmWZZQdo9EZZ2_jRg3-ZlBjOs_SBayOT9m2-ZMpyiLc5o7vO6lOjmCV9taDlSouzx9MHoYeZ9sd8skByK-bKC_VfJ1X16T7T7B1Gu4Oxr_3q2RL3iow/s1600/P1070144.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCJZ6PdQhlv1J8pwpQMWmUmWZZQdo9EZZ2_jRg3-ZlBjOs_SBayOT9m2-ZMpyiLc5o7vO6lOjmCV9taDlSouzx9MHoYeZ9sd8skByK-bKC_VfJ1X16T7T7B1Gu4Oxr_3q2RL3iow/s400/P1070144.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">As
we traversed the slopes we happened upon a large griffin vulture, which took
flight as we approached to reveal its huge white and black wings. We are
reminded that the people of Mustang still use sky burials for most deceased,
only the royals being cremated. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Returning
to city through the northern slope, we treated ourselves to a beer, then waited
for a tour of the King's Palace, Tashi Gedphel Gyalkhang. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Previously
we had been advised that the King, Jigme Parbal Bista, now aged 80, was unwell
and was being treated in Kathmandu. However, to our surprise and delight we
found ourselves being presented to the king himself, each of us offering a
traditional white silk kata and he then placing it back around our neck. There
followed tea, about seven of us with a small number of guides, and after a
somewhat awkward silence, a few questions were asked of him. I, of course,
volunteered Richard to ask if the Dalai Lama had visited Mustang, but of course
he hadn't because Mustang is so close to the Tibetan border and this would be
'politically unacceptable'. Silly me, I should have known!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLM8BHIJ71fWQSZTiTLVVILPytRJi6GnrwhCqr4kzBQkOHCWYG6B4NsN2faOLHGz8mhq7zBiRJgJwbYD14Na-EwCyA15HeMSkc-CWs12_Tz8GntYGKVethM4axwJXLyxDJoQoTfA/s1600/P1070150.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLM8BHIJ71fWQSZTiTLVVILPytRJi6GnrwhCqr4kzBQkOHCWYG6B4NsN2faOLHGz8mhq7zBiRJgJwbYD14Na-EwCyA15HeMSkc-CWs12_Tz8GntYGKVethM4axwJXLyxDJoQoTfA/s400/P1070150.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Presented to the King of Mustang</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
palace itself was ramshackle and accessed up steep unlit wooden staircases, but
a very atmospheric experience for all.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
great day in this marvellous city, and with very few tourists about. A real
treat.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">As
the day ended, the winds strengthened and it got noticeably cooler. A cold
night ahead...</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Wednesday
30 May</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDE1vRKmPN2rLEr8_LKEk4PUlz2cbQ-5VjfkJ9gaT6zRo8GRudckJmxr7-QujyJNmSp3QEBML91aklntNeswP5qm553cPR4QwyBjdUDyO26WsyUcFzbUGK4yOo98gqgfjgqVVEYQ/s1600/P1070153.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDE1vRKmPN2rLEr8_LKEk4PUlz2cbQ-5VjfkJ9gaT6zRo8GRudckJmxr7-QujyJNmSp3QEBML91aklntNeswP5qm553cPR4QwyBjdUDyO26WsyUcFzbUGK4yOo98gqgfjgqVVEYQ/s400/P1070153.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lo La 3960m</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US">Another
bright, dry day dawned and an 'easy' day down to the next village south on the
main trail through Mustang. We entered very arid country, and the track
followed a dirt road most of the way, which was incredibly dusty. Fortunately
no wind in the mornings here, so good progress made initially with fine views
back to the confluence of valleys containing Lo Manthang. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Walking
through low canyons we crossed the Lo La at 3960m, and the trail went steadily
downhill most of the way with the southern panorama unfolded in front of
us...the snow capped peaks of Tangki Manang, Thorung Peak 6144m, the fine
pyramidal summit of Khatungkang 6484m, Annupurna I, Tilicho Peak and our old
friend Nilgiri Himal.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">For
me, this was when my energy ran out. A couple of weeks of relatively hard
trekking behind us, the body said 'enough!'</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
could see tomorrow's route from our track and noted that it would involve a
couple of hours back-tracking from our overnight camp to cross the deep canyon
of the Thulung Khola. Descending, then re-ascending the side canyon of Charang
Khloa to reach our overnight stop in Charang (Tsarang) further depleted
reserves and it was here that the decision was made to skip tomorrow's route
which had us eventually going eastwards to a spot called Yaragaon, and head
straight down the valley to Tangge, leaving us with just four trekking days to
reach the airstrip at Jomsom. My companions willingly agreed as this
potentially gives us a full rest day in Kathmandu before a tough 10 day trek
planned in the Humla region through June. Subject to...being able to cross the
next big canyon, and the river within it, and bringing two domestic flights
forward!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
other thing playing on my mind today was our other group, having successfully
completed the Everest Base Camp trek, had been stranded in Lukla for two days
due to bad weather, so were to get a helicopter down to Kathmandu. Later in the
day, it was confirmed that they had got down safely, so that's a relief!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0nFDWSbMYCv3275XtnOt_9SG0x5Rcg1N4A_7WFvnwIrkJ8zFNlFP-s2wbVKbpSU5BuoUA93IydKakBouiiaMy2sP_rzdWtQO0RB11BPmt_AyvwCl9kgT2s-fqBTwNBSqr016puA/s1600/P1070157.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0nFDWSbMYCv3275XtnOt_9SG0x5Rcg1N4A_7WFvnwIrkJ8zFNlFP-s2wbVKbpSU5BuoUA93IydKakBouiiaMy2sP_rzdWtQO0RB11BPmt_AyvwCl9kgT2s-fqBTwNBSqr016puA/s400/P1070157.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rock caves south from Lo La</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdKBEOIreYi8SE9noK-ozIOV6kWN1JsxBbewKbrfz_gmuSGtcUpaAD_k1fjPUQYV6LQ9teLEXwBtz1onEhP983cHVfwrYZ5FiwYtPYRKUocNWIpLQassL3wQeCnU3iX4kZ-OZGXA/s1600/P1070161.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdKBEOIreYi8SE9noK-ozIOV6kWN1JsxBbewKbrfz_gmuSGtcUpaAD_k1fjPUQYV6LQ9teLEXwBtz1onEhP983cHVfwrYZ5FiwYtPYRKUocNWIpLQassL3wQeCnU3iX4kZ-OZGXA/s400/P1070161.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Descent to Tsarang</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2i4i-Ytna_eh1E2n-m-_AcAdewn9g1sNDDWhuBkBzdjUO1ClEND3NJrIRg0V0n8p4v46Kh1rEMFMLwCeaI8EW0VieijU4bI1xPh_DYuvZyTlDPBAv3sL0AluqY2j_Tn3L7Xf2Pw/s1600/P1070166.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2i4i-Ytna_eh1E2n-m-_AcAdewn9g1sNDDWhuBkBzdjUO1ClEND3NJrIRg0V0n8p4v46Kh1rEMFMLwCeaI8EW0VieijU4bI1xPh_DYuvZyTlDPBAv3sL0AluqY2j_Tn3L7Xf2Pw/s400/P1070166.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The largest chorten in Mustang</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTxDOQXIsf8RC6ahiffkqAUjeXpB12IAqtE_UMkh6pTVpr4wsGQc5x7mb6NgTRdOZDANc9AQ6EyHjhBsseDSwXwVrvP8bPZZRjemks1dLX-44yw6sz8ZcrIwtxyF9XdigI1gSBcA/s1600/P1070168.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTxDOQXIsf8RC6ahiffkqAUjeXpB12IAqtE_UMkh6pTVpr4wsGQc5x7mb6NgTRdOZDANc9AQ6EyHjhBsseDSwXwVrvP8bPZZRjemks1dLX-44yw6sz8ZcrIwtxyF9XdigI1gSBcA/s400/P1070168.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-KO5zopU8nzpEXGTCsUwAYB9UquSifVH_7M7mk-Jr4syiy09MjbW-S14K94aimbcuWLg_nNmRgURzsBbygwBEg-LGERw8g6Tn7dnioRcC31X-42p1YL9ZLhUj7CxWdAXrVnxmBQ/s1600/P1070175.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-KO5zopU8nzpEXGTCsUwAYB9UquSifVH_7M7mk-Jr4syiy09MjbW-S14K94aimbcuWLg_nNmRgURzsBbygwBEg-LGERw8g6Tn7dnioRcC31X-42p1YL9ZLhUj7CxWdAXrVnxmBQ/s400/P1070175.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An exhausted trio just north of Tsarang...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Back
to today. We reached the large village of Tsarang and our camp for the night
behind the Kailas guesthouse. All of us were shattered so an early afternoon
kip revived us somewhat and we ventured through the village, this one somewhat
scruffier than we had seen elsewhere, and visited the Tserang Thuten Shedrup
Dhargyeling Monastery, another Sakya centre (ignore any map saying it's a Gelug
monastery) and went up to the old royal palace for views down the canyon of the
Charang Khola. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
monastery was in a state of chaos as there was a substantial amount of
refurbishment being done in preparation for the forthcoming Saga Dawa festival
and other seasonal pujas. However we were able to view an impressive Maitreya
Buddah encased in a gilded wooden framework, and there were many fine silk
finishes throughout the monastery. Some of the Buddha images at the rear of the
main hall had also been nicely cleaned and renovated.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
lazy afternoon followed...</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6nTHsMIEFuJYBF-x303565w3MazlFDkoQuaEopF-73GlQ9ryun096lvFBbp-XOT3WtPUMluAEfBLTiT5u6vXnlFrU6WFRSNUmP4ePUv32Unt_b4fHFFkEy0XXYekwPYu19VPF9w/s1600/P1070200.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6nTHsMIEFuJYBF-x303565w3MazlFDkoQuaEopF-73GlQ9ryun096lvFBbp-XOT3WtPUMluAEfBLTiT5u6vXnlFrU6WFRSNUmP4ePUv32Unt_b4fHFFkEy0XXYekwPYu19VPF9w/s400/P1070200.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Tserang Thuten Shedrup Dhargyeling Monastery</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn7s-Sp37Qw6pBe42JgKQKwU5oMiw-eca0zk1kspdxc-nCUhF16OhDNX6L8xDLcFDes-TQPJIXanfVWubBkKMnYaO_zdECwiEKxfIQHC7IZNueLZ06WK4XvDbJEXJd7fIbTJpeBw/s1600/P1070203.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn7s-Sp37Qw6pBe42JgKQKwU5oMiw-eca0zk1kspdxc-nCUhF16OhDNX6L8xDLcFDes-TQPJIXanfVWubBkKMnYaO_zdECwiEKxfIQHC7IZNueLZ06WK4XvDbJEXJd7fIbTJpeBw/s400/P1070203.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Caves in the canyon alongside Tserang</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH75uQlbFuWm-KUNzaG3AE1_f-4IaSJYjILp4YaYhEcFL_AERfpPxOLaAqwssqKBMv2oTX41s6TpHF-7ccljCPXMsme1etqITOyIOTjAYiMz956AIMAwH3FxaDuEdWeMG26oB5tA/s1600/P1070210.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH75uQlbFuWm-KUNzaG3AE1_f-4IaSJYjILp4YaYhEcFL_AERfpPxOLaAqwssqKBMv2oTX41s6TpHF-7ccljCPXMsme1etqITOyIOTjAYiMz956AIMAwH3FxaDuEdWeMG26oB5tA/s400/P1070210.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Tserang Thuten Shedrup Dhargyeling Monastery</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Thursday
31 May</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Doggy
city...the bloody things barked all night, which was alright when the ear plugs
stayed in!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">An
early start, notable for the fact that our guide was busy on his prayer beads
from the off, as we had asked him to do a route he had not done before. We
passed the gompa, and headed out across the irrigation channels which enable
all the crops growing in these parts, mainly barley here but considerably less
advanced in growth compared to that seen at lower elevations. After a hesitant
look down one or two gullies, we found the main route down to the canyon floor,
a steep but safe scree path that took us rapidly down almost 300m to the bottom
of the Charang Khola at its meeting point with the main defile of the Kali
Gandhaki Nadi. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJQbUF0R5kOGYbSqOO3gHTMZyzy2d0qUKnoaiF2da5UwWQQWcNEK3AkHCLpSwu7GiPjVs1DX74GEskm_9NMtrJe0HmatSl8tssCftM9y7iA6ij-cZEwBK2a6Tf1r7acAJ9AoMdDw/s1600/P1070226.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJQbUF0R5kOGYbSqOO3gHTMZyzy2d0qUKnoaiF2da5UwWQQWcNEK3AkHCLpSwu7GiPjVs1DX74GEskm_9NMtrJe0HmatSl8tssCftM9y7iA6ij-cZEwBK2a6Tf1r7acAJ9AoMdDw/s400/P1070226.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Descent to the Kali Gandhaki Nadi</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhToji9uLSS8D4N1YnRsNvQMnz3-8_Q9DIrrKQuZMa3UATxKPWfScYLuzvdbCm8KGPWHwGJ1lRiCHIRU-Wd2F6lc8nTEFQMzLcUUG26J6KwEuG3nsXiMdUb0iyBBoQO1oHcdNlX5A/s1600/P1070243.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhToji9uLSS8D4N1YnRsNvQMnz3-8_Q9DIrrKQuZMa3UATxKPWfScYLuzvdbCm8KGPWHwGJ1lRiCHIRU-Wd2F6lc8nTEFQMzLcUUG26J6KwEuG3nsXiMdUb0iyBBoQO1oHcdNlX5A/s400/P1070243.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some exciting river crossings!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_AYKYq89eqlWTBoOwoBZzVuDReFRHhJfLU4fDeuz0oUxO7eSCVJmDkfKOCMl8dLdKpf3_oJls4qgmo9Ni1Hg0_s8XkBs7T22ljgWaU01fSLHWP8_B2PcQSppTdp0clq7XEWlk7g/s1600/P1070245.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_AYKYq89eqlWTBoOwoBZzVuDReFRHhJfLU4fDeuz0oUxO7eSCVJmDkfKOCMl8dLdKpf3_oJls4qgmo9Ni1Hg0_s8XkBs7T22ljgWaU01fSLHWP8_B2PcQSppTdp0clq7XEWlk7g/s400/P1070245.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Checking
with a young girl who, amazingly, maintained a small bhatti in a tent behind a
stone wall windbreak, we set off into the wide gravel flats of the main canyon,
jumping on our horse to cross the fast flowing river, thick with grey sediment
from the glaciers above. Relatively easy walking, losing almost another 200m
over the next couple of hours, on and off the horse, narrowly avoiding wet
boots as the horseman valiantly led the horse on a lead, himself almost waist
deep in the powerful current. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlXzR3aNbEBmG5G20bNYhyDe-YDgh6e531-dG9Io-plWBuf1ENkcHGPu-ZgMgGkhTkrlVctw80kXmjD1zFZNnxACVYV5YzUmQLHJ2hJz6UqUdpFtWzPgTZ87afw8Vqh7YklSjt-Q/s1600/P1070252.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlXzR3aNbEBmG5G20bNYhyDe-YDgh6e531-dG9Io-plWBuf1ENkcHGPu-ZgMgGkhTkrlVctw80kXmjD1zFZNnxACVYV5YzUmQLHJ2hJz6UqUdpFtWzPgTZ87afw8Vqh7YklSjt-Q/s400/P1070252.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A long haul down the river gravels of the Kali Gandhaki</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">After
about three hours we left the main canyon and its vast yellow sandstone walls,
and turned east into the Tangge Khola, necessitating more river crossings on
horseback. It made a change from grinding uphill across this high altitude
desert, the pattern of the last few days. Eventually, the village of Tangge
3240m came into view with the usual entrance chortens up to our left. And,
across the valley we could see the formidable task we'll have tomorrow when we
cross over a 4380m pass on our way to Tetung and then Muktinath. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Good
job we had hired the horse! </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
camp site offers lofty views back down to the canyon we had just navigated, and
our hosts tonight have the most simplest of accommodation adjacent to the
camping area. Two older women, one with a single leg, and the other a little
simple, seem to run the show, and only speak Tibetan, so there were a few
communication challenges with our Nepali guide and crew. There are some young
adults about, so, in between eating tsampa, the staple food in these parts,
chewing gum, and playing with a mobile phone, we did get some communication
going! </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_OyovJ08t1nitP3j3kqUySgfQeHJVpaGBEr9cozvX185_nAHFabJ-g1xegJ0gblUV_pJDZwlXIJ8SyV2RXz1dDth2RMeB7Rrxr2zptzzm_Sin9K8newb9a3wygthQXsFIrj27VA/s1600/P1070263.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_OyovJ08t1nitP3j3kqUySgfQeHJVpaGBEr9cozvX185_nAHFabJ-g1xegJ0gblUV_pJDZwlXIJ8SyV2RXz1dDth2RMeB7Rrxr2zptzzm_Sin9K8newb9a3wygthQXsFIrj27VA/s400/P1070263.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Basic teahouse in Tangge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV4JNEPDIntmYrDX5ve4ACp5XJhyphenhyphen2tjCcJl3EtNTz3dUcdjKPWfsDldFszQBG9G75cTfKcI9302fjHz0rg3NoXh89JZVqqR_EQ4nt4kAaT7Yx2HfWGgD1dOV-EpwWWByM_zdsvww/s1600/P1070271.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV4JNEPDIntmYrDX5ve4ACp5XJhyphenhyphen2tjCcJl3EtNTz3dUcdjKPWfsDldFszQBG9G75cTfKcI9302fjHz0rg3NoXh89JZVqqR_EQ4nt4kAaT7Yx2HfWGgD1dOV-EpwWWByM_zdsvww/s400/P1070271.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camp at Tangge<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO7gAgrOmiVodWw7RQa1EBj8SFs_CcCV-pvlCpXFA7KZn505w_9DVZqKP7i5GdhTUPhdUW0kkPv3teFEVeTpTzGvyNGF4X338ihizXTdvxQj5yTQ0898ieVOMf0S6J4iZ1Nq0DBA/s1600/P1070273.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO7gAgrOmiVodWw7RQa1EBj8SFs_CcCV-pvlCpXFA7KZn505w_9DVZqKP7i5GdhTUPhdUW0kkPv3teFEVeTpTzGvyNGF4X338ihizXTdvxQj5yTQ0898ieVOMf0S6J4iZ1Nq0DBA/s400/P1070273.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Later
we had a walk up into the village...quite literally the land that time forgot.
Narrow alleyways, an abandoned gompa, and an impressive series of chortens,
some with roofs built over them...not seen that before. We could see the start
of our route tomorrow, and the pass that was our first objective. Not the tIme
to think about that now...dinner and early to bed.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn1ZgKOdEO1GY45FsnAUnh4sXR1dD6s6DSA5QoZJdRP06-VtHRaJA8Z2b-Z_y2u-06PnZIwcSkDziZs-mxDJNSEzaHW1XUf0HRFQF039UWi3N3VdpgvIyOLqOS5L67RDL03OOjlg/s1600/P1070279.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn1ZgKOdEO1GY45FsnAUnh4sXR1dD6s6DSA5QoZJdRP06-VtHRaJA8Z2b-Z_y2u-06PnZIwcSkDziZs-mxDJNSEzaHW1XUf0HRFQF039UWi3N3VdpgvIyOLqOS5L67RDL03OOjlg/s400/P1070279.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The wonderfully isolated village of Tangge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhGNhCa-Ch3vu9qS2Gu-3eNUo8rZLAoZtx3Q3W3yhlyN1T2u8kB26r05IWWzXG9Abot6qtXuwWeL_4WcZ6RWDpx2xzCErlUfClxDui0OT6W3kBiblT86YWGogITHgGEURz5a435A/s1600/P1070281.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhGNhCa-Ch3vu9qS2Gu-3eNUo8rZLAoZtx3Q3W3yhlyN1T2u8kB26r05IWWzXG9Abot6qtXuwWeL_4WcZ6RWDpx2xzCErlUfClxDui0OT6W3kBiblT86YWGogITHgGEURz5a435A/s640/P1070281.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chortens in Tangge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyRCKyKAv5IJCNtJ2BXWtytGdiuI0GP8s5I1vLz5CDZ4769qW0_06GPG0hm68GNNZEquZ_DdxMLkPbUaZIsimr1htBIDOq0pC3F-SVJHPLiXJxqpkCyQ2teTm5spdQBeSMMvOpOQ/s1600/P1070282.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyRCKyKAv5IJCNtJ2BXWtytGdiuI0GP8s5I1vLz5CDZ4769qW0_06GPG0hm68GNNZEquZ_DdxMLkPbUaZIsimr1htBIDOq0pC3F-SVJHPLiXJxqpkCyQ2teTm5spdQBeSMMvOpOQ/s640/P1070282.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Om Mani Padme Hum...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRRPbh9wju5tAtRToOwQzTkWV2AN6iImiGvLY-U4JgUIa8HAS4xXI8hlJXV9uUSl-CG6d_VIU8BFsrkjt5xBQDhiVgsS6ZGunv1r-Z9-Rmj7jOYn5zItxqIs1L8wbmX1On98am5g/s1600/P1070285.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRRPbh9wju5tAtRToOwQzTkWV2AN6iImiGvLY-U4JgUIa8HAS4xXI8hlJXV9uUSl-CG6d_VIU8BFsrkjt5xBQDhiVgsS6ZGunv1r-Z9-Rmj7jOYn5zItxqIs1L8wbmX1On98am5g/s400/P1070285.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More rock caves...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw073FVfA_KWSO_ASmAlyQQOzN80TNtwmosBcETXku2SpZlmEnSjUZWl318MI9KEOc0-BssUAe6JJ4J4yh1HoH_bAY0nYqyfIP51k3ecr2HQQIqsZ12xXa2qHK3ppZnvymIyP7uQ/s1600/P1070287.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw073FVfA_KWSO_ASmAlyQQOzN80TNtwmosBcETXku2SpZlmEnSjUZWl318MI9KEOc0-BssUAe6JJ4J4yh1HoH_bAY0nYqyfIP51k3ecr2HQQIqsZ12xXa2qHK3ppZnvymIyP7uQ/s400/P1070287.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Start of our long trek tomorrow...<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWlsZWZLBvw1ZI8RZ0nD_V0HdHfQqpWO-Lde6LuEkjpYTEQTy2QcX6v8L4QIVI9KPOBpRuDE-IDIx-UNABvGGyAAr4xIz5rZyF9KBiFiWKQs_3ghA5efT1ZkgK0hYAu1o0Gb9AFw/s1600/P1070289.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWlsZWZLBvw1ZI8RZ0nD_V0HdHfQqpWO-Lde6LuEkjpYTEQTy2QcX6v8L4QIVI9KPOBpRuDE-IDIx-UNABvGGyAAr4xIz5rZyF9KBiFiWKQs_3ghA5efT1ZkgK0hYAu1o0Gb9AFw/s400/P1070289.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tangge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Note:
the Lonely Planet guide to the route we're now on refers to the isolation of
the villages of Tangge and Tetang, and the lack of even basic facilities. Plus
being prepared for at least one ten hour (more than 30km) day...that'll be
tomorrow then...</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Friday
1 June</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Given
the length of the day ahead, we set off at 0630, dropped down to a river and
crossed it by an old wooden bridge, followed by a climb over a spur to the main
valley of the Tangge Khola. The river necessitated assistance again from our
horse and one hour after setting off we were starting the long climb to the
first of the day's passes. Starting at 3450m we made quick work of the first
400m, in just over the hour, with a cool morning breeze offsetting the sun bearing
down on us from the east. The path worked its way up through sandstone bluffs,
and looking back to Tangge, there were hazy views of the surrounding canyons.
Wild country indeed. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaRy6HaOKGLY1GhrcNr70kUdnJ9bdsYx0BbngBDn2Ia-KcfhX_oUC3BJRC4VnYnUx8ifUMrk0mOeGFiQvUEvFaIOAMDpGNxohKWoFEst_1duYrF45WBL48MeQfBavajuSCzTERDw/s1600/P1070293.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaRy6HaOKGLY1GhrcNr70kUdnJ9bdsYx0BbngBDn2Ia-KcfhX_oUC3BJRC4VnYnUx8ifUMrk0mOeGFiQvUEvFaIOAMDpGNxohKWoFEst_1duYrF45WBL48MeQfBavajuSCzTERDw/s400/P1070293.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking back to Tangge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUWYo8meKd8k2Oz3I435OQUTS7oJYStPkgYtioMjHT676YrxXFBZ2-umQqk3V8fQN6JqpSKcilFa8G0fOQfja5kJ7vSbIMQa-H6BbEThq7hB1QGs82lT-d3di71VnF_s-Zub9gGw/s1600/P1070296.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUWYo8meKd8k2Oz3I435OQUTS7oJYStPkgYtioMjHT676YrxXFBZ2-umQqk3V8fQN6JqpSKcilFa8G0fOQfja5kJ7vSbIMQa-H6BbEThq7hB1QGs82lT-d3di71VnF_s-Zub9gGw/s640/P1070296.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Start of our long climb to the next pass</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil9kZRpZ0A1rnY-3RNVLDOSaO8etNpVa-3afnfMBIxVkYzaI4TrW92mWNomNTs3jkf0fbjkBMIRsV7bSJf7gSmmXPm97n5JbvYc-T_ydTkmFmBJt4k3AOjpvC5aX4jh_ExSEFrjQ/s1600/P1070302.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil9kZRpZ0A1rnY-3RNVLDOSaO8etNpVa-3afnfMBIxVkYzaI4TrW92mWNomNTs3jkf0fbjkBMIRsV7bSJf7gSmmXPm97n5JbvYc-T_ydTkmFmBJt4k3AOjpvC5aX4jh_ExSEFrjQ/s400/P1070302.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Still a lot of climbing to do...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">After
two and a quarter hours, we reached the first pass at about 4250m, and ahead of
us, in the far distance, was the next one! One and a quarter hours later we
reached that one, at about the same altitude, only to notice that the path
continued to rise. Ho hum.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtaQDBNGqWntnOcJeTP_K7m1p9p6PEx8kNCfU0H_tIsw5Kf4ha1HTCL747Khi-1d6D00tgFqm65yrhqB9b-P46-QFIhp86ZwmPchzzHIE6wHQqMjyozVJx63xdahrH0qqqqD97uQ/s1600/P1070307.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtaQDBNGqWntnOcJeTP_K7m1p9p6PEx8kNCfU0H_tIsw5Kf4ha1HTCL747Khi-1d6D00tgFqm65yrhqB9b-P46-QFIhp86ZwmPchzzHIE6wHQqMjyozVJx63xdahrH0qqqqD97uQ/s400/P1070307.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yeh, another pass!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Following
a high level path around interlocking spurs, we eventually realised the most
magnificent of views to the south. Despite the haze in the canyon lands of
Mustang, the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges stood proudly above the clouds,
resplendent in bright sunshine. What a view! And we seemed nearly up there with
them, despite their being 25-30 miles away. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
path became truly spectacular, winding its way up on to a long ridge called
Siyarko Tangk Danda, and the path maintained a height of about 4100m
throughout, with huge drops into multi coloured canyons to the south, above the
Narsing Khola, deep in the canyon below. The rock scenery was some of the best
I have ever seen.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7JoCJEVAko7gBGufquBiqjJv0xZ3HgKEx01vPkMNVaZpl8pa6Z302Ozfb68_wXuWIUVzkZSKZo6ZoFkX-qIhfQPm4L__6loMBZ4nZBO06vuwhegu90Qd0Rn3MIB6q1QSFLBPxtA/s1600/P1070322.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7JoCJEVAko7gBGufquBiqjJv0xZ3HgKEx01vPkMNVaZpl8pa6Z302Ozfb68_wXuWIUVzkZSKZo6ZoFkX-qIhfQPm4L__6loMBZ4nZBO06vuwhegu90Qd0Rn3MIB6q1QSFLBPxtA/s640/P1070322.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Stupendous ridge walking along the the Siyarko Tangk Danda</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQMIZjYI3P0Txn8cIO-RRduf1mWKIBF0cSv_sDMe3aLjoNgVUPK-GDu_k3UP2Wcfu1AQQd1GEXbeGDdDe2wBvRP-X1IGNeZK2R0st4ZQPeLotQW5GoZRasxRXv_Sriui2sy_vBOA/s1600/P1070325.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQMIZjYI3P0Txn8cIO-RRduf1mWKIBF0cSv_sDMe3aLjoNgVUPK-GDu_k3UP2Wcfu1AQQd1GEXbeGDdDe2wBvRP-X1IGNeZK2R0st4ZQPeLotQW5GoZRasxRXv_Sriui2sy_vBOA/s400/P1070325.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN3msURMmRYHtBbD4mYwHcmChLG2foAfcOPVwAmM7YrnhgRK8C8Rps2AKR6oNwHzoNSiXe6NgVq00zwGM7h4pBEv2HYKsCZDd07RbxEnWTZZcDVdAPeHHB9V79wemqycirMlbJqw/s1600/P1070335.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN3msURMmRYHtBbD4mYwHcmChLG2foAfcOPVwAmM7YrnhgRK8C8Rps2AKR6oNwHzoNSiXe6NgVq00zwGM7h4pBEv2HYKsCZDd07RbxEnWTZZcDVdAPeHHB9V79wemqycirMlbJqw/s400/P1070335.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2WzJp5lFwMlnTLx9O8XLpIfU1d9v10FVf9-Ue3fFBUPA5WZYmK1UuqoFYc7nnA3RaTzctrix0BSpvAHAEBmXFfEeEtD-vPSg8Gd8_8djOKhJCbbj8fhcZ3WKSPb_GoKhTOLAmpg/s1600/P1070351.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2WzJp5lFwMlnTLx9O8XLpIfU1d9v10FVf9-Ue3fFBUPA5WZYmK1UuqoFYc7nnA3RaTzctrix0BSpvAHAEBmXFfEeEtD-vPSg8Gd8_8djOKhJCbbj8fhcZ3WKSPb_GoKhTOLAmpg/s400/P1070351.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb4oBBUYcRVETInLerTD_ano3U6o0Ii9c2cjR-Izbp2AGFmSWfzi8i8VrzkPBGBl9mBF5-EXX0mri6R8sLLDvjvZ-e3Ane0HvRHgzVBIdrZH_ysZSjTHJ7rz-pIB1LiJ4zfSx_hw/s1600/P1070354.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb4oBBUYcRVETInLerTD_ano3U6o0Ii9c2cjR-Izbp2AGFmSWfzi8i8VrzkPBGBl9mBF5-EXX0mri6R8sLLDvjvZ-e3Ane0HvRHgzVBIdrZH_ysZSjTHJ7rz-pIB1LiJ4zfSx_hw/s400/P1070354.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF1yfpobOYPRdm6fCceo5-Zo0XX6HMaSOxylgiCkbY4vCPUc2xbjq1DBgzELUtResq9WRm0Ysl5u7h7UzJYXIycDl8qQNsPoo6PN7VtFET5Qf4IwTA7tq-YCklazufh3yl1ebI9g/s1600/P1070364.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF1yfpobOYPRdm6fCceo5-Zo0XX6HMaSOxylgiCkbY4vCPUc2xbjq1DBgzELUtResq9WRm0Ysl5u7h7UzJYXIycDl8qQNsPoo6PN7VtFET5Qf4IwTA7tq-YCklazufh3yl1ebI9g/s400/P1070364.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Annapurna range to the south, just a couple of days away...<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSw0msYTsFhMZxMOdppN-MJ-U1r3Rtj6sYwtJaHLRz8THlqmydMhxSyux45Bn6fWMPn3WwCsKlswzODsh5_ToV1oa4r-s7ui5_spKBuAqnv853v5_u4f6OXr41yNt0U726CigXdg/s1600/P1070368.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSw0msYTsFhMZxMOdppN-MJ-U1r3Rtj6sYwtJaHLRz8THlqmydMhxSyux45Bn6fWMPn3WwCsKlswzODsh5_ToV1oa4r-s7ui5_spKBuAqnv853v5_u4f6OXr41yNt0U726CigXdg/s400/P1070368.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggNP78KRXL1wzQ2COfuj-f1CzvXxRyDyL20d8wZfgk5em6oy1pdFNOnZu82peuu1wMZ66Ci4ZKTgaAYIjnJP1v1NoV9mvTwtqnz10GmCKw0dXGf-itYO1yhP2DWi_mGDcAYmnw7A/s1600/P1070370.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggNP78KRXL1wzQ2COfuj-f1CzvXxRyDyL20d8wZfgk5em6oy1pdFNOnZu82peuu1wMZ66Ci4ZKTgaAYIjnJP1v1NoV9mvTwtqnz10GmCKw0dXGf-itYO1yhP2DWi_mGDcAYmnw7A/s400/P1070370.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
quick lunch was taken about halfway along the ridge and we had our guide do a
SATS test using is portable device: my reading was oxygenation at 83% and heart
rate at 100 bpm, and Kaji's was 95% and 115 - my two companions failed to
register any results...they were either momentarily comatose or producing
results that the little machine couldn't interpret! </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">After
lunch we made a quick ascent around a rock pinnacle on the ridge, which brought
us on to the descent route, easy at first, dropping about 300m on an easy gradient over about two
miles, and giving us the chance to take in the views all around without
worrying about our feet.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">But
that was to change in an instant. Suddenly the path veered south into the
canyon, the slope steepening considerably, and scree and loose rock now the
order of the day. This continued for about 300m, a horrible little path worked
its way through to the north side of the ridge and took us sharply down through
loose sandstone cliffs, with the path very exposed in places. And, of course,
the afternoon southerly decided to start gusting, often knocking us off
balance, so there were a few hairy moments for half an hour or so. Let it be
said that it helped concentrate the mind somewhat!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqrl9sXcAGQTBeLDtJc9Sq4Pbxy8cBQHp8XuODUjbQdB4s22gJglOfAEWfmOCA6_DUTUiUPK7-NTMA8TsEV3nC0_Ooll3mrg10srCIXSWlN3tEBs7xII6IOHRax4pu1-sdRbRI6Q/s1600/P1070377.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqrl9sXcAGQTBeLDtJc9Sq4Pbxy8cBQHp8XuODUjbQdB4s22gJglOfAEWfmOCA6_DUTUiUPK7-NTMA8TsEV3nC0_Ooll3mrg10srCIXSWlN3tEBs7xII6IOHRax4pu1-sdRbRI6Q/s400/P1070377.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What goes up must come down, a tricky descent to Chhusang</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYoWGcZkoVpkYN1YfcMtTSqQw4KWCPGf68HHrQrGVmuhZE3hbFznCZrO7wosKcjbdA0kTlBMyXwuq2SSRZfFyGp8exQmOZ8OACUS8Pee8mIzKj5QztgJg0hccNDe8f7INpx0McHg/s1600/P1070378.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYoWGcZkoVpkYN1YfcMtTSqQw4KWCPGf68HHrQrGVmuhZE3hbFznCZrO7wosKcjbdA0kTlBMyXwuq2SSRZfFyGp8exQmOZ8OACUS8Pee8mIzKj5QztgJg0hccNDe8f7INpx0McHg/s640/P1070378.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The verticality concentrated the mind somewhat!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB2pRO8ZRs61H7TEJDdoqnk1YjqKo_9O6BznETu2sFzlgLOpjAFMJtYEe0-c10oy7dyuHWBLQqAqDjq1_gDGKPq4BHU1bc7lAyDFlcPWixmvQgrQGTGJyJsSHL6GRcStxnfnIFyQ/s1600/P1070382.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB2pRO8ZRs61H7TEJDdoqnk1YjqKo_9O6BznETu2sFzlgLOpjAFMJtYEe0-c10oy7dyuHWBLQqAqDjq1_gDGKPq4BHU1bc7lAyDFlcPWixmvQgrQGTGJyJsSHL6GRcStxnfnIFyQ/s400/P1070382.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Magnificent rock scenery above Chhusang, and a view of the start of tomorrow's route</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLWtE7GGF2yCzaU4GnwMIM3odf_fBBwGO-0ypa_w0JkacBmpX0dGYf9w9V2ACqBfXqV6_eQ0G8zbHp4LrJm8oy1kEvy1cpx6mVArw68v95qC7hcckoyR6-hAbb_mf2oDBA8YEv1g/s1600/P1070389.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLWtE7GGF2yCzaU4GnwMIM3odf_fBBwGO-0ypa_w0JkacBmpX0dGYf9w9V2ACqBfXqV6_eQ0G8zbHp4LrJm8oy1kEvy1cpx6mVArw68v95qC7hcckoyR6-hAbb_mf2oDBA8YEv1g/s400/P1070389.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Final descent to Chhusang and the Kali Gandhaki again</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Whilst
we were descending from the ridge, we could trace our route up to Lo Manthang
on the other side of the huge Kali Gandhaki canyon...the villages of Geling,
Samar and eventually Chele revealing themselves as we headed south east. Nine
hours later we made the final descent on scree to our destination. More than
enough for us all, but a very satisfying day indeed.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4a0gZI3po2vHgX-Mt_EaSF6WzzktKRqwcAdNHLPHBcbl7hbGMd7ZZsADRLRg89WHbU0MpYZv2M8wrusgRh_-fFJGNAajPReD4MZUXROcXk3RYaaPsKDmxkBOuNWCs8d1zyjR_wA/s1600/P1070391.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4a0gZI3po2vHgX-Mt_EaSF6WzzktKRqwcAdNHLPHBcbl7hbGMd7ZZsADRLRg89WHbU0MpYZv2M8wrusgRh_-fFJGNAajPReD4MZUXROcXk3RYaaPsKDmxkBOuNWCs8d1zyjR_wA/s400/P1070391.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chhusang</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja2FJGH69UqdVSy4qgNSqpKNsafSY0J_-ulbnt-q3VVgeYDbdlWnK0bYHh_Z-SvgsWE9E3Tp7cT4ZfwFV-iM_6ohCXNpp2WUXrsGE65NXKeFDs9H9Rp3zEg1y2bJ8Prc22d1uILQ/s1600/P1070398.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja2FJGH69UqdVSy4qgNSqpKNsafSY0J_-ulbnt-q3VVgeYDbdlWnK0bYHh_Z-SvgsWE9E3Tp7cT4ZfwFV-iM_6ohCXNpp2WUXrsGE65NXKeFDs9H9Rp3zEg1y2bJ8Prc22d1uILQ/s400/P1070398.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Milarepa's meditation cave above Chhusang</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Our
camp for the night is in Chhusang (2980m), a village we passed through on the
first full day in Mustang, a slight change to our plan as the horses needed
better grazing after days in very arid country.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Needless
to say, a beer or two were enjoyed at the camp.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Summing
up the day, Richard said it was one of the best mountain days he had ever had.
I said it was certainly up there amongst the best. John said 'if you want to
observe God's tapestry, this is the place to come.' Says it all methinks.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Saturday
2 June</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Another
early start, as we wanted to get to our next destination, Muktinath, in time to
visit Buddhist gompas and Hindu temples on arrival, as this is a town of great
spiritual significance - Shiva is said to have visited, there is a natural
methane vent which flames continuously, and the Buddhists venerate the location
as well.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Setting
off from Chhusang, an easy valley plod eastwards brought us some rewarding
opportunities for photography in the early morning light, particularly on the
huge sandstone cliffs and the many caves hollowed into them on the far side of
the Kali Gandhaki canyon. As we got higher we passed the village of Tetung,
with its chortens and ancient buildings, one of which apparently collapsed last
year. Fine views indeed, especially when seen across the terraces of barley yet
to ripen.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNGyNk5Tn8Do_yUPuK39VKlXu3vKOObR-b1_9jHKHDX5UHsItqZckoKHW0tKVsoeDGzrEPzl59BH7K-oVERsYgHlc0rLuyZXrOk4_2PmBn09kOWUsjkpGSepG5HNtwvrl6Nt4BRw/s1600/P1070400.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNGyNk5Tn8Do_yUPuK39VKlXu3vKOObR-b1_9jHKHDX5UHsItqZckoKHW0tKVsoeDGzrEPzl59BH7K-oVERsYgHlc0rLuyZXrOk4_2PmBn09kOWUsjkpGSepG5HNtwvrl6Nt4BRw/s400/P1070400.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Great early morning light, the trail above Chhusang</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5ppUgpJSAGgJVIOmjGGVk0GcsfdzXtxAVnkelGtX0oK1JmjJp1P4t5PAR4EoqVZF1Nd2FJJCmvYj6s-OZi4btdXRHHSXdG17VxL67Z0QOohZOpuR5NZduLZ-Wjp2X0cRli9Mq1Q/s1600/P1070401.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5ppUgpJSAGgJVIOmjGGVk0GcsfdzXtxAVnkelGtX0oK1JmjJp1P4t5PAR4EoqVZF1Nd2FJJCmvYj6s-OZi4btdXRHHSXdG17VxL67Z0QOohZOpuR5NZduLZ-Wjp2X0cRli9Mq1Q/s640/P1070401.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcGAkOxVZGjrp6-PNCoHCLhDgmt-Cc0XlHT0dCaXcLXprPg4ayraVh1NC65XipJjLaB4ScdGfHQwsxV6M_P6xNsoRMoIyx0t3LhYDu0XL8kAPA9hEw6KK5yu1X67e0MZTqMXvU_g/s1600/P1070402.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcGAkOxVZGjrp6-PNCoHCLhDgmt-Cc0XlHT0dCaXcLXprPg4ayraVh1NC65XipJjLaB4ScdGfHQwsxV6M_P6xNsoRMoIyx0t3LhYDu0XL8kAPA9hEw6KK5yu1X67e0MZTqMXvU_g/s640/P1070402.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnutXs1IzhlOx8d9-PocqUVHht_wzperqypxEvlTRalYrOssSYXo5NiTkbJ18aF3OZxqpd7XH4Oo6XPvvPBb6Chh_b137rxioGeVoRhrMUT6xujaLmARNXbCqOQ_KPkSXVo11plw/s1600/P1070406.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnutXs1IzhlOx8d9-PocqUVHht_wzperqypxEvlTRalYrOssSYXo5NiTkbJ18aF3OZxqpd7XH4Oo6XPvvPBb6Chh_b137rxioGeVoRhrMUT6xujaLmARNXbCqOQ_KPkSXVo11plw/s400/P1070406.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgURyajbC1Fk1xrYT9GbA_QhwiM_VDRE7RjWwnYuTkgNQp69TcVIp09sq0mK8L8N6Wc38XSczEyVw8QZ7mbedBUIhMV5fqNUVr06EnoJ5gpzj5Lzt0hpNTMSmS211Jra7aL5NkTZQ/s1600/P1070410.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgURyajbC1Fk1xrYT9GbA_QhwiM_VDRE7RjWwnYuTkgNQp69TcVIp09sq0mK8L8N6Wc38XSczEyVw8QZ7mbedBUIhMV5fqNUVr06EnoJ5gpzj5Lzt0hpNTMSmS211Jra7aL5NkTZQ/s400/P1070410.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Barley growing on the terraces below Tetung</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjfsiPGIzUCjumADIpD7jOuTFyfM_UAcyHp9uQLS-5IEMHjjVaxGonkWciEeFkY8cqob-hI95ShEaQs3LH5X-BzIcm5zeIJ4sMxHdVmitbcgOLjUvNx0a9MvYO4T3hT4F9hqrc0w/s1600/P1070412.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjfsiPGIzUCjumADIpD7jOuTFyfM_UAcyHp9uQLS-5IEMHjjVaxGonkWciEeFkY8cqob-hI95ShEaQs3LH5X-BzIcm5zeIJ4sMxHdVmitbcgOLjUvNx0a9MvYO4T3hT4F9hqrc0w/s400/P1070412.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCi-d9u9-T117yZZaYqWP8Vfpremn1zijFyH6h3fAkykBWqtXFd59n8U5-i9LFnqUA1HmQQ1N2M6ku5CKLWc7dGPYVg5OhojMoiRQ0px-Xc9XeruJNc1-3ac4keoCEL1mdHh_kIA/s1600/P1070413.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCi-d9u9-T117yZZaYqWP8Vfpremn1zijFyH6h3fAkykBWqtXFd59n8U5-i9LFnqUA1HmQQ1N2M6ku5CKLWc7dGPYVg5OhojMoiRQ0px-Xc9XeruJNc1-3ac4keoCEL1mdHh_kIA/s640/P1070413.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from Tetung<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvK-HXG30MEtoQ5Jcfj21ia24NUJ4l3dhewQH3T_jyj27PXgHAbK-atPaO_vzgfucu15H2KKR6H1qN0smIWjDLtF2jnB4D7QcdNzbZYBeb52HmCeZnnXZWdsKyxBo4N7FGfv4CPA/s1600/P1070417.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvK-HXG30MEtoQ5Jcfj21ia24NUJ4l3dhewQH3T_jyj27PXgHAbK-atPaO_vzgfucu15H2KKR6H1qN0smIWjDLtF2jnB4D7QcdNzbZYBeb52HmCeZnnXZWdsKyxBo4N7FGfv4CPA/s400/P1070417.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tetung</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKp4uVFGP-iayvMjwd_MShP-RXYzvxEXq0qJ54TncaZ33iON9Bw832Curi0wNEi0esttrEwmWSMjyTsCgOnaKWJLD4quh67y0UTn4r_sdREy74lQZ_yqr5AI3hukwjO9LHXVfWBA/s1600/P1070423.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKp4uVFGP-iayvMjwd_MShP-RXYzvxEXq0qJ54TncaZ33iON9Bw832Curi0wNEi0esttrEwmWSMjyTsCgOnaKWJLD4quh67y0UTn4r_sdREy74lQZ_yqr5AI3hukwjO9LHXVfWBA/s400/P1070423.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRHO_4eDh1oe-ZVjbbFta1G-kOUkPdjfbzRueUidlnp2aZUG-xNKAb4B1julojhgutDOh3m6bdMF9NHoY_2EtbNVit7EfwNdY93-9b4KH8FWwS7wCEMW7fuyY0zyHJ4hsQyYezIg/s1600/P1070426.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRHO_4eDh1oe-ZVjbbFta1G-kOUkPdjfbzRueUidlnp2aZUG-xNKAb4B1julojhgutDOh3m6bdMF9NHoY_2EtbNVit7EfwNdY93-9b4KH8FWwS7wCEMW7fuyY0zyHJ4hsQyYezIg/s400/P1070426.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgunYJh012_3w_v_nCoBNtsmeBom4T1d7vj28kgRyUsDuFtufH8U4V3hxeYxMaPtoKN1h0W77XFq_QZw82ODm7OBFsX3NYwWrN56zg9dqh3i57_SMBsKve5MvbomGfDvYSVTDlAwA/s1600/P1070427.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgunYJh012_3w_v_nCoBNtsmeBom4T1d7vj28kgRyUsDuFtufH8U4V3hxeYxMaPtoKN1h0W77XFq_QZw82ODm7OBFsX3NYwWrN56zg9dqh3i57_SMBsKve5MvbomGfDvYSVTDlAwA/s400/P1070427.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Then
the climb started. Quite steeply at first, up about 200m until we reached the
flat tableland above the canyon. From here we turned southeastwards, starting
up a wide valley which eventually narrowed when we reached about 3600m. The
path narrowed and steepened here, some tricky bits to cross with large drops to
one side, and the climb became quite hard work, especially after yesterday's
efforts. From Chhusang it took four hours to reach the pass of the Nyu La
(4077m), so today's climb was just as big as yesterday's. We were very relieved
to get to the top, because it was a featureless plod right up to the top, but
then, wow! In front of us stood the Annapurna massif, right up close, and to
our right towered Dhaulagiri and Tukuche, with clouds cloaking the middle
reaches of its vast ice falls. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1lt4Sd_AN_AFJyKZAU9sIUbl_CKRtGrrrKZ8HkOefypw-LWf29JcVXT_a4BoRZHpXczeQlYDwJG3WeX5wxFZc1LohqUuWan8h-01lyKIt05sU4zhy06vecVJunM6o7JF_kjWuGA/s1600/P1070428.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1lt4Sd_AN_AFJyKZAU9sIUbl_CKRtGrrrKZ8HkOefypw-LWf29JcVXT_a4BoRZHpXczeQlYDwJG3WeX5wxFZc1LohqUuWan8h-01lyKIt05sU4zhy06vecVJunM6o7JF_kjWuGA/s400/P1070428.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tableland above Tetung</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxPRsg0U9yoSgXQSkTBw7Jc4c7ce2agsXHU2fN5Z_QlksBuLN1LIl9Rd3AiLXyIJ5A21iKJ-pYbZNimJAvYoiQYlskNxiJUAzY8Kb0pLFlm_6f9Jdx5rS1JtgqmspFCLo7upbeZw/s1600/P1070434.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxPRsg0U9yoSgXQSkTBw7Jc4c7ce2agsXHU2fN5Z_QlksBuLN1LIl9Rd3AiLXyIJ5A21iKJ-pYbZNimJAvYoiQYlskNxiJUAzY8Kb0pLFlm_6f9Jdx5rS1JtgqmspFCLo7upbeZw/s400/P1070434.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Richard with Annapurna Himal to the south</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1YWpyJrHvSZ6eNY-AFKRTTz1uz_cSh2JD6FF6-yELMvFDI5VVAqGKrJ8-hkCwiIS3SOgXn7LC2f2E4PAs69wm0bUKxy9tnMvOGhw2yD_yN7vXoIGI9U7-I92YLTJqypzYHOQGEQ/s1600/P1070438.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1YWpyJrHvSZ6eNY-AFKRTTz1uz_cSh2JD6FF6-yELMvFDI5VVAqGKrJ8-hkCwiIS3SOgXn7LC2f2E4PAs69wm0bUKxy9tnMvOGhw2yD_yN7vXoIGI9U7-I92YLTJqypzYHOQGEQ/s400/P1070438.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stumpy!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEill54sC52PELyoyUBqyhCpKo8-2zQBAlFcJus1ZvKWWzyQPJUYs5NVZH8BzsBl3mQO-m3KkujpgCon922e3E-HEsydI9WRdpM1eM0SOdcTk_IEltrsG_kSkjqQiHu1oUbZUPjsZg/s1600/P1070441.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEill54sC52PELyoyUBqyhCpKo8-2zQBAlFcJus1ZvKWWzyQPJUYs5NVZH8BzsBl3mQO-m3KkujpgCon922e3E-HEsydI9WRdpM1eM0SOdcTk_IEltrsG_kSkjqQiHu1oUbZUPjsZg/s400/P1070441.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Richard, Colin and John above Muktinath</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjViyVCdi4SOJw7p00PhN2rS1qpAMbI8Q7BOrGvy164QgiR5DE5FakaupWIKfg13WlA9CehzsjJmsnFb5n1VLX6bb7jVpW_3p0xkP8W_V9SEl1PUWeekDdVDGwiUFs4Grz9JJhOg/s1600/P1070445.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjViyVCdi4SOJw7p00PhN2rS1qpAMbI8Q7BOrGvy164QgiR5DE5FakaupWIKfg13WlA9CehzsjJmsnFb5n1VLX6bb7jVpW_3p0xkP8W_V9SEl1PUWeekDdVDGwiUFs4Grz9JJhOg/s400/P1070445.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dhaulagiri</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ5nuytIgE3hFhBDhlmSFfpoRDmzDcvjrqLoTh5pkphLwRlk51uDH3YZE8BoSYLTl5iLSVaK3SmUEC4zPNcBDTb8jCSfQp3nAkVPu4t4iXlcpXV_g5xQfxDMDATAkQI61pIhPVyQ/s1600/P1070452.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ5nuytIgE3hFhBDhlmSFfpoRDmzDcvjrqLoTh5pkphLwRlk51uDH3YZE8BoSYLTl5iLSVaK3SmUEC4zPNcBDTb8jCSfQp3nAkVPu4t4iXlcpXV_g5xQfxDMDATAkQI61pIhPVyQ/s400/P1070452.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4CzSaC6Xs_oWTj_xC12-76ZyvWBBhfuFHPrc9zvJcNUtXqTQiMLXWwRee7U3O2SMydWxJIqBu-wgUorXBrHczVbKig-5rBSpF6N6_D1qdpO17TpcQcdQ39pa_sS_d0Fy0V29SEg/s1600/P1070457.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4CzSaC6Xs_oWTj_xC12-76ZyvWBBhfuFHPrc9zvJcNUtXqTQiMLXWwRee7U3O2SMydWxJIqBu-wgUorXBrHczVbKig-5rBSpF6N6_D1qdpO17TpcQcdQ39pa_sS_d0Fy0V29SEg/s400/P1070457.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thorung Peak and the Annapurnas</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsbulduCV5GkVltX0BbR8a7nEERfmFU5pBAnxgK_waghiu4sCTbdTLSrd3k6bAzLJVeIRxRdiy-0buhVSIG54-_DCe4SjWjG2GxRxc_GhLCbA_GAk1Bl2yRmoQIkeooDia0jzl4w/s1600/P1070469.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsbulduCV5GkVltX0BbR8a7nEERfmFU5pBAnxgK_waghiu4sCTbdTLSrd3k6bAzLJVeIRxRdiy-0buhVSIG54-_DCe4SjWjG2GxRxc_GhLCbA_GAk1Bl2yRmoQIkeooDia0jzl4w/s400/P1070469.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beauty, above and below</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEo2xoX5O4Ih_oHEub-RyQrrZffuB3gW8qR_rhgPmwrLAPk1uXhBiEUafLKjfx94O0-YzXnmKVDulHs72fUl_KuDj7UeyB4JnZPqS8OvkAlT8nkgJBbMhGC99uexrN4HesYvArcw/s1600/P1070471.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEo2xoX5O4Ih_oHEub-RyQrrZffuB3gW8qR_rhgPmwrLAPk1uXhBiEUafLKjfx94O0-YzXnmKVDulHs72fUl_KuDj7UeyB4JnZPqS8OvkAlT8nkgJBbMhGC99uexrN4HesYvArcw/s400/P1070471.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVsJxp2W9TQymGdarD2CU75-Q-b_prprWuWF3Wn_eXEsfOMmq6BlzJ8JryOdroyreU0CWdMU_ruV91oMaz2LYg4cNM7AZOgo5WZ7yfHcwfCA_A4-_jgUn4yDr55GJnbnG723Y2_g/s1600/P1070473.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVsJxp2W9TQymGdarD2CU75-Q-b_prprWuWF3Wn_eXEsfOMmq6BlzJ8JryOdroyreU0CWdMU_ruV91oMaz2LYg4cNM7AZOgo5WZ7yfHcwfCA_A4-_jgUn4yDr55GJnbnG723Y2_g/s640/P1070473.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approaching the pilgrimage town of Muktinath</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US">Superb.
It was very windy on the pass, so we dropped a couple of hundred metres and had
a quick lunch, Annapurna I putting in an appearance before us, and fine close
up views of Thorung Peak and its fine looking neighbour, Khatshang Kang.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">After
the stop, we took an easy path for an hour towards Muktinath, which gradually
steepened until we hit a valley spanned by a suspension bridge. Then, of
course, a climb back up the other side of the valley in the hot early afternoon
sun...all of us were wilting by now. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Entering
Muktinath at 3760m, you formally leave the Mustang Restricted Area, and the
path you join is the section of the Annapurna Circuit below the infamous pass,
the Thorlung La (5300m), which we could see to the north east as we entered the
village.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFVGsvIvQgTmAaWKngspmXWJ-pcE1LqK3BjtOuDHsakeUGFFgyYWjDSXixpsVBbdA5IpttQXomuoS9xK6eieQnio-hjijwGHchZWYkqM1B43r3x6E7ABA9kuRdVCbIa6iFtNgOIA/s1600/P1070480.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFVGsvIvQgTmAaWKngspmXWJ-pcE1LqK3BjtOuDHsakeUGFFgyYWjDSXixpsVBbdA5IpttQXomuoS9xK6eieQnio-hjijwGHchZWYkqM1B43r3x6E7ABA9kuRdVCbIa6iFtNgOIA/s640/P1070480.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dhaulagiri from Muktinath</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR2buJ7yQySD9-SBGnENc2_WSLjAa1Q_lxZ2QlQv8V3Ya9Zn6NBwqXHVHXwIzqmxcgkXPbEYmOgKIDiVVPeG50nkUSwC0c0-CrJL562OZPf9OcR-av4FV2XV7-oUqhYQAYXNAe-g/s1600/P1070488.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR2buJ7yQySD9-SBGnENc2_WSLjAa1Q_lxZ2QlQv8V3Ya9Zn6NBwqXHVHXwIzqmxcgkXPbEYmOgKIDiVVPeG50nkUSwC0c0-CrJL562OZPf9OcR-av4FV2XV7-oUqhYQAYXNAe-g/s400/P1070488.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Muktinath</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKqEgE8_l2rjjs6hZdtSWKFJRfsN8NQLwclJigQ4dPmApRQqiwiVYTxzLh1KuH84xTcJ7MG8nflBmInanKhUNV6y1oH9JTW0AaNMbgosmAMbBuiSQ7-tWtWvYrYPKz3QVa3DJZyg/s1600/P1070489.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="328" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKqEgE8_l2rjjs6hZdtSWKFJRfsN8NQLwclJigQ4dPmApRQqiwiVYTxzLh1KuH84xTcJ7MG8nflBmInanKhUNV6y1oH9JTW0AaNMbgosmAMbBuiSQ7-tWtWvYrYPKz3QVa3DJZyg/s400/P1070489.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzh12g8GuEn9ESN3_Owu6MQtMM9OCIbxiPuuG0anbH-gSiuMZDIy6Obrv2DT-YFD8oICLldZA0n0m9At8C3f8nTPlJEdOUOUIPfnJR8pRts6h6jKWXQMLi6aX7oO5ssZKo1i_0Fg/s1600/P1070493.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzh12g8GuEn9ESN3_Owu6MQtMM9OCIbxiPuuG0anbH-gSiuMZDIy6Obrv2DT-YFD8oICLldZA0n0m9At8C3f8nTPlJEdOUOUIPfnJR8pRts6h6jKWXQMLi6aX7oO5ssZKo1i_0Fg/s400/P1070493.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camp below Muktinath</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Quite
a shock entering 'civilisation' again, shops, hotels and much construction
work, as this is a big pilgrimage location and well as a stop over for
Annapurna Circuit trekkers.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Our
appetite for further sightseeing was tempered by exhaustion, so, you guessed
it, no temple bashing this afternoon, but a few cold beers did get sampled!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Sunday
3 June</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Predictably,
dogs in the town entertained us again during the night. However, we were up
bright and early to visit the temple complex above the town, a rather odd mix
of Hindu temples and shrines, Buddhist prayer flags festooned on the hills
above, small Buddhist gompas, and bells everywhere, rung by Buddhist and Hindu
pilgrims alike. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
visited the main Hindu temple, a small pagoda structure dedicated to Vishnu,
Brahma and another of the Hindu pantheon of gods. Behind it, three walls with
cow head fountains showered water into a channel through which pilgrims purify
themselves. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8dDkT8FoRvV6C5X2leHdjAd_TmaXHtTmvAj6M495e9r3zwGiA9amamo2bmnBfMl0fkqn1O4DbJuPUdcEj6byO-H7fkXDWnkYGOovHDXj7LhQ04_yG4vMHFQ_uEK1-Z3hFZm8Xlg/s1600/P1070504.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8dDkT8FoRvV6C5X2leHdjAd_TmaXHtTmvAj6M495e9r3zwGiA9amamo2bmnBfMl0fkqn1O4DbJuPUdcEj6byO-H7fkXDWnkYGOovHDXj7LhQ04_yG4vMHFQ_uEK1-Z3hFZm8Xlg/s640/P1070504.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Muktinath</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_Ejac2yOIVtDs7In2JPtu0_D1ooOOdTt_OndIF2-kDkB5Qgt7X_xTZAFZnOTaj3fBjY0gpoFqdkNzt80e7Uwqaq6fgf96GbfVq4sRZ_5_RNAoeSjihxp4GKfTS31VAE15y5IpkA/s1600/P1070508.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_Ejac2yOIVtDs7In2JPtu0_D1ooOOdTt_OndIF2-kDkB5Qgt7X_xTZAFZnOTaj3fBjY0gpoFqdkNzt80e7Uwqaq6fgf96GbfVq4sRZ_5_RNAoeSjihxp4GKfTS31VAE15y5IpkA/s400/P1070508.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Further
up the hill, a small gompa dedicated to Guru Rinpoche had been demolished to
make way for a new one, and from here we gained fine views west to Tukuche
emerging in the early morning sun. More cloud today, and this was to build up
further during our temple visit. From here we visited another small gompa, this
one occupied by chanting nuns led by a male abbott. The central figure was a
Green Tara. This is a very special gompa as there is a natural gas vent here
and this is allowed to burn continuously, one of the reasons this location is
regarded as a sacred site. The nuns were chanting special mantras ahead of
tonight's full moon and the Saga Dawa festival in two days time.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
finished our visit in the Samba Gompa, the entrance way featuring some fine
carved woodwork, and inside the central feature was a Medicine Buddha.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Returning
to the town for breakfast, we passed many saddhus, Hindu holy men, working
their way up to the temples.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4WIVFHjP6HbpYMrsoh8hKvaPHJ3b6CnDFGYNJ3OTcQk6LeilgYQUi1aQHtUuJZrGnFTB6PYxlD_E4Vn9KyiTfXv7pYpfDxJDlrXABjhO5VRc4xu2H1-VbO29TRaGhPeSvQYFc0w/s1600/P1070516.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4WIVFHjP6HbpYMrsoh8hKvaPHJ3b6CnDFGYNJ3OTcQk6LeilgYQUi1aQHtUuJZrGnFTB6PYxlD_E4Vn9KyiTfXv7pYpfDxJDlrXABjhO5VRc4xu2H1-VbO29TRaGhPeSvQYFc0w/s400/P1070516.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Muktinath</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4SBJVbJJdlXpv3YJhA6mceZgYunPPcOsH09LwDsC_FPWnqCx5Iy18r-VwP9JGrZQRX8ECRB74ftAuu4Z03g8IJXUW2hhEQRP0fuLMQTRIfMoTHNlBjUrKYU-teb5WchVxO0wbzw/s1600/P1070529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4SBJVbJJdlXpv3YJhA6mceZgYunPPcOsH09LwDsC_FPWnqCx5Iy18r-VwP9JGrZQRX8ECRB74ftAuu4Z03g8IJXUW2hhEQRP0fuLMQTRIfMoTHNlBjUrKYU-teb5WchVxO0wbzw/s400/P1070529.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heading for Jomsom...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">After
breakfast we made a quick descent through the villages below Muktinath, taking
a contouring path to bypass Kagbeni and take us straight down to Jomsom at
2750m, a drop of about 1000m. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">It's
when we reached the Kali Gandhaki that we hit the wind. Since we had started
walking we had noticed the clouds building to the south and west of us. In the
valley bottom the wind intensified to the highest level we'd experienced yet,
gusting to around 40-50mph and throwing grit into our faces and exposed arms.
Ouch.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht8B0YC8RtV-bAwLIe81pLuT9qmC3gjmu-Spb9iZA0Hzimk7L14vGNa3_nkOq7YPrI-x6WRvmoQsh7l1R_Gyoleq6zvwX7a6Y1x1t36YvvwYXfYbcqV1AV9ueTJcI6fE7WQkQfCQ/s1600/P1070535.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht8B0YC8RtV-bAwLIe81pLuT9qmC3gjmu-Spb9iZA0Hzimk7L14vGNa3_nkOq7YPrI-x6WRvmoQsh7l1R_Gyoleq6zvwX7a6Y1x1t36YvvwYXfYbcqV1AV9ueTJcI6fE7WQkQfCQ/s640/P1070535.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfCslYk-PEisf8s3YVJrSDFTepUbrQQVQPVUiKTWIQWA3pTfjJHRF2tv_OatAXpa-Fv2f2oblCsABeK6L9w5hM5UzcOxOP4NexbAAQxST-EsAfWXjgfwEjeBfmSVRScosGKPmGog/s1600/P1070537.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfCslYk-PEisf8s3YVJrSDFTepUbrQQVQPVUiKTWIQWA3pTfjJHRF2tv_OatAXpa-Fv2f2oblCsABeK6L9w5hM5UzcOxOP4NexbAAQxST-EsAfWXjgfwEjeBfmSVRScosGKPmGog/s400/P1070537.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM4GRy1wZnVs3OFJHNzKlBcsdtWS8U-Dspq8ijOORIZdBLMtMLWMVDSxiI1dvXfJCzlHyc7TlWQQx-SPkq-jjtdvMaPoTPdO6Mh-WqYVg0Tb3uFnofPRJQCaPJk8bG4cYTvjj5Mw/s1600/P1070542.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM4GRy1wZnVs3OFJHNzKlBcsdtWS8U-Dspq8ijOORIZdBLMtMLWMVDSxiI1dvXfJCzlHyc7TlWQQx-SPkq-jjtdvMaPoTPdO6Mh-WqYVg0Tb3uFnofPRJQCaPJk8bG4cYTvjj5Mw/s400/P1070542.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The trail from Muktinath to Jomsom...before the wind started to blast us!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Anyway,
heads down, grin and bear it, true grit (excuse the pun!) and after four and a
quarter hours we reached Jomsom.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Seventeen
days on trek, a marvellous experience, made all the better for the effort we
had to put in and the new experiences for us all.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">So,
guess, what? Yep, a beer sits next to the iPad, and we have a night in Jomsom
to get clean and prepare for an interesting flight down to Pokhara tomorrow!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">As
it turned out, the weather changed significantly after our arrival. It actually
rained on and off all afternoon, clearing the air nicely. As the clouds started
to lift late afternoon, fresh snow was evident on all the surrounding mountains
down to about 4000m...so we had got down just in time. Lucky lads!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8US7e4Am4whfonSU5cY9h332UBr-_JRuYKJAjb9x2WLQQCxy5m7tAPYDVgHvdYhZ0xRxPO8xzU93UnxowPr5LN0ZqFhSQz8GVViwcpOPgR5eksFzp9_xwWXmNiqFULY2T_XfXtg/s1600/P1070543.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8US7e4Am4whfonSU5cY9h332UBr-_JRuYKJAjb9x2WLQQCxy5m7tAPYDVgHvdYhZ0xRxPO8xzU93UnxowPr5LN0ZqFhSQz8GVViwcpOPgR5eksFzp9_xwWXmNiqFULY2T_XfXtg/s400/P1070543.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfhVvtQgt-gRO51iQk_cEQ457zIvoQJeG6wbhH-LX5uQZjEljAUlLs2AnWihgckp4Bcq6XEtk6aJQEqVOG3aHTXeWdU9znI2Mg2_oY9RoNusCnF1Np9lZahWoF9dZ2PwfbHi9SPw/s1600/P1070544.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfhVvtQgt-gRO51iQk_cEQ457zIvoQJeG6wbhH-LX5uQZjEljAUlLs2AnWihgckp4Bcq6XEtk6aJQEqVOG3aHTXeWdU9znI2Mg2_oY9RoNusCnF1Np9lZahWoF9dZ2PwfbHi9SPw/s400/P1070544.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizH515Lriq1qMYhOWXpPRQ4RjYu5FNUb1Mb53u3YUoqIuMVNSO_Gf1YWRK0-VX9ZjTemNC40c9BwINP4Q5Dq8nc2ROy8R_iXLEWkug-2jjdp7LQunUf1JNi3r1cbrqPv40toywpA/s1600/P1070545.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizH515Lriq1qMYhOWXpPRQ4RjYu5FNUb1Mb53u3YUoqIuMVNSO_Gf1YWRK0-VX9ZjTemNC40c9BwINP4Q5Dq8nc2ROy8R_iXLEWkug-2jjdp7LQunUf1JNi3r1cbrqPv40toywpA/s400/P1070545.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Windblown and sand blasted, Colin, Richard and John pitch up in Jomsom again!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhddIPGYFL1C11HGnubZzM19YiE4bmC8ZEJi7oB1YxTolChBkU8Lw69PB58EQ4wuULKX_dpJqNaoLyv3ApUW6EJi0sm57gOJahGfj0n50xW-QOm3tDo5QaI_LQeqYz0U8dCPTbB0A/s1600/P1070546.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhddIPGYFL1C11HGnubZzM19YiE4bmC8ZEJi7oB1YxTolChBkU8Lw69PB58EQ4wuULKX_dpJqNaoLyv3ApUW6EJi0sm57gOJahGfj0n50xW-QOm3tDo5QaI_LQeqYz0U8dCPTbB0A/s400/P1070546.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Saying thanks to our trekking crew</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRYdC7N1F7vBqp2fVSp4a6m3FMb8rLYTweRLj076DGEUuQ6Q6QeMeX50FW3twUTn6kamvZJZ0fT6zZIiPHw6pUvis4sEenF7ZPeH2pX1CeYhQim6XtfCjDrv2LGr1gK9pdce5Pzg/s1600/P1070547.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRYdC7N1F7vBqp2fVSp4a6m3FMb8rLYTweRLj076DGEUuQ6Q6QeMeX50FW3twUTn6kamvZJZ0fT6zZIiPHw6pUvis4sEenF7ZPeH2pX1CeYhQim6XtfCjDrv2LGr1gK9pdce5Pzg/s400/P1070547.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Qm4xEITYbbKlTdHaDJcSbkCf1nHFSMp6Pphdt-OzpSHPGFe5mkNcsRYKdC9NZAJ6haoYVxqbEM3SRv6fwyUEI0HGoauf4-dAwtVD_a-wx2HRgFxtTLK4alCS4HJm4-hfjNUdGg/s1600/P1070553.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Qm4xEITYbbKlTdHaDJcSbkCf1nHFSMp6Pphdt-OzpSHPGFe5mkNcsRYKdC9NZAJ6haoYVxqbEM3SRv6fwyUEI0HGoauf4-dAwtVD_a-wx2HRgFxtTLK4alCS4HJm4-hfjNUdGg/s400/P1070553.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Monday
4 June</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
chill out day after we arrived safely from Jomsom. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">One
of the alarming things about Jomsom is the wreckage of an aircraft on the same
route that remains above the town in
full view of the airport itself. The plane had crashed in bad weather 3-4 weeks
earlier with the loss of fifteen lives, including some tourists. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Anyway,
our flight was uneventful and with great views as we overflew much of the early
part of our trek up from Naya Pul almost three weeks ago.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheFvUvDTNvIPU0WWb_dZmCzkVvvI8d0w7-bkGS8WpFc3bI-s_FwKhQafQOxc9lgbdmgEbcd3VoZw3KOwKEWKQC61PMz5pRHKoXo8XRUSGyt4AjKndbM9e5l0ZB-wc9c6GxdmwxwA/s1600/P1070554.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheFvUvDTNvIPU0WWb_dZmCzkVvvI8d0w7-bkGS8WpFc3bI-s_FwKhQafQOxc9lgbdmgEbcd3VoZw3KOwKEWKQC61PMz5pRHKoXo8XRUSGyt4AjKndbM9e5l0ZB-wc9c6GxdmwxwA/s400/P1070554.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Off to Pokhara...for beer and ice cream!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Pokhara
is much hotter than up in the mountain valleys and the humidity built up during
the day, necessitating several ice cream and beer stops. It eventfully
thundered and rained in the late afternoon, clearing the air nicely, and we
enjoyed pleasant views across the Phewa Lake from our strategically positioned
bar stools.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
stayed at the Mount Kailash Resort in the touristy Lake View area of Pokhara.
Quiet rooms and friendly, efficient staff.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
massage, a Chinese meal for dinner nearby and early to bed.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Tuesday
5 June</b></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
lazy start, a good breakfast and a smooth transit through Pokhara airport for
our 0920 flight on Buddha Air to Kathmandu.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
day of rest, some book shopping in Pilgrims Bookstore in Thamel, and dinner at
the Thai restaurant Yin Yang. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">JOMSOM TRAIL & MUSTANG -
Summary</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">This
has been a truly 'Trans-Himalayan' experience. Trekking from the sub-tropical
climes above Pokhara, wending our way up to Poon Hill and the fine views of the
Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges, before entering the 'land that time forgot',
the brutal but wondrous landscapes of Upper Mustang. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
didn't have enough time to do the full Annapurna Circuit, but the Jomsom Trail
was full of interest and acclimatised us well. In May/June it's hot, but the
trail generally clear of other trekkers, a real bonus on an otherwise popular
trekking route. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">But
it was Upper Mustang, the ancient kingdom of Lo, that proved to be the star of
the show. Trekking here is not for the faint-hearted. It's windy, dusty, and
there are some long, isolated days of relentless ascents and descents across
the high altitude desert landscapes. But there are big rewards. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Empty
trails. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Some
of the most fantastic rock scenery you'll see anywhere in the world. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">And
glimpses of medieval life up towards the Tibetan border. Indeed, the Dalai Lama
has said that Mustang 'is more Tibetan than Tibet'. And it is.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Tibetan
Buddhism survives here in an authentic, unfettered way. Cave monasteries,
gompas being lovingly restored, chortens and mani walls in profusion.
Absolutely wonderful. Just don't forget your face scarf!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9888425.post-56543483524057883172012-03-01T01:00:00.000+00:002013-10-13T07:21:22.805+00:00Places Visited<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div id="ta_travelmap" style="width: 430px;">
<br />
<img height="370" src="http://www.tripadvisor.com/CommunityMapImage?id=37011921&type=TRIPADVISOR&size=LARGE" width="640" /><br />
<ol id="ta_favoritelist"></ol>
<br />
<ul id="ta_links">
<li><a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com/members/StumpyNottingham">View my profile</a></li>
<li>Create your own <a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com/MemberProfile-cpt" style="color: #3860b0; font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: none;">travel map</a> or <a href="http://www.travelpod.com/" style="color: #3860b0; font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: none;">travel blog</a></li>
<li>TripAdvisor: <a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com/Flights" style="color: #3860b0; font-family: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: 10px; text-decoration: none;">airline tickets</a></li>
</ul>
<br /></div>
<br />
<script src="http://www.tripadvisor.com/MapEmbed?mid=37011921&frm=pt&Version=CHEAP_FLIGHTS_001">
</script></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9888425.post-92106152969523032332012-02-29T17:32:00.006+00:002022-11-25T09:20:08.497+00:00New Zealand 2012<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div class="Body1">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeRMQixfaMoPT73EhJCwm5ysF370QLGC66enhNrGn-wdQSIWs8zlZJ83rzCFDsZO-cu7nto5eYxMfHDJv-Bzqr_5g6AQzIgVi7tJg8fEzR2tQBBQgHsg-uGxNPk5xSyyonxQfuLg/s1600/nZ+map.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeRMQixfaMoPT73EhJCwm5ysF370QLGC66enhNrGn-wdQSIWs8zlZJ83rzCFDsZO-cu7nto5eYxMfHDJv-Bzqr_5g6AQzIgVi7tJg8fEzR2tQBBQgHsg-uGxNPk5xSyyonxQfuLg/s640/nZ+map.jpg" width="518" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our route in New Zealand</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>South Island</b></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-US">Two
and a half hours from Sydney, and, once again landing in Queenstown, for me,
the third time in 14 months. As always the flight into the mountainous South
Island is a truly spectacular one: this time we came in directly from the west,
giving views of the entrance to Doubtful Sound and then Lake Te Anau, before
tracking over Lake Wanaka and down through the narrow gorge into Queenstown.
Quite wonderful, and always exciting. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-FEgheKmK9CHwzsSZVljeh4lNPqYNFU24gut-Cf2ejLcPGbuO5fqXFs_Z9o-swIjZiz6sG9Ob1IfKic89hDh-ZPyQDanIlHajrDrgHSDUcfBfsrLpAGcA38zLfFRsYqyDYJjeoA/s1600/P1020011.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-FEgheKmK9CHwzsSZVljeh4lNPqYNFU24gut-Cf2ejLcPGbuO5fqXFs_Z9o-swIjZiz6sG9Ob1IfKic89hDh-ZPyQDanIlHajrDrgHSDUcfBfsrLpAGcA38zLfFRsYqyDYJjeoA/s640/P1020011.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approach into Queenstown</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
drove straight out of Queenstown, across the Crown Range, through Cardrona and
then down into the town of Wanaka, beautifully set in bright sunshine with
views across Lake Wanaka to the glaciers of the Mount Aspiring National Park.
It takes your breath away. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
lazy walk into town from our pleasant overnight accommodation at <a href="http://www.wanakahomestead.co.nz/">Wanaka Homestead</a> (recommended) for a beer in town (Wanaka Ale House), followed by a
good, unpretentious, curry in the little Ashraf's restaurant. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
good but tiring day!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">An
early start next morning to climb Roys Peak, a straightforward but unrelenting
ascent from about 300m to the summit at 1576m, a good pull! Made good progress
under slightly cloudy skies, just over two hours to the top. Big zig zags take
you up through the bush, populated by sheep and myriad rabbits, into more
alpine country, eventually broaching the summit ridge at about 1300m. Here, on
a small track out on to an extension of the main ridge, I was able to capture a
great close-up shot of a New Zealand Falcon, apparently quite rare, and it only
took flight after I got to within 2-3m of it. An iconic shot, even if I say so
myself!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfZq1ubzCkG7bPCfm5JtiqZtXuPt5Ax71-WPRo807OlkF7-ApblWSSXt2i7MLIJEF7NjeVT07-gT-OPLsT32rNWSZN4ic2Tn5oQfiARDvFSo-txrxmKpK_2v9tcpYRQF2McTTKNg/s1600/P1050320.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfZq1ubzCkG7bPCfm5JtiqZtXuPt5Ax71-WPRo807OlkF7-ApblWSSXt2i7MLIJEF7NjeVT07-gT-OPLsT32rNWSZN4ic2Tn5oQfiARDvFSo-txrxmKpK_2v9tcpYRQF2McTTKNg/s640/P1050320.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Early start on Roys Peak<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipZOP8FRdqTryUFixGxSetXB2WADqOdZQv7r3fH2agjQ9XHc6JooZ_UG5cSrTZ7Ni_-If1Qj3WC797YeYvQ_bQy0vVSSzUNBQRRCHsIZE9XqA-MTI6ggny8EQ47sXJZX4-l6tyTQ/s1600/P1050324.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipZOP8FRdqTryUFixGxSetXB2WADqOdZQv7r3fH2agjQ9XHc6JooZ_UG5cSrTZ7Ni_-If1Qj3WC797YeYvQ_bQy0vVSSzUNBQRRCHsIZE9XqA-MTI6ggny8EQ47sXJZX4-l6tyTQ/s640/P1050324.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lake Wanaka</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCOoN9l3H1_MrltVWYj05Pcy5c-sCX3dBuzTGTOzsPWL5-ouEpgJMevRKPml-PQtYLQgfOTnEvJv07FGmrkgiAxpk2bISuf-_q9sI4pyXKrQnqYwcHNFHimEJ_sauDnYI7Gga-WQ/s1600/P1050328.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCOoN9l3H1_MrltVWYj05Pcy5c-sCX3dBuzTGTOzsPWL5-ouEpgJMevRKPml-PQtYLQgfOTnEvJv07FGmrkgiAxpk2bISuf-_q9sI4pyXKrQnqYwcHNFHimEJ_sauDnYI7Gga-WQ/s640/P1050328.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New Zealand falcon on the summit ridge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1O3_lQSuT8IhIrFv7hZ-Mr8cC8C1wnPFPerjRlG02AE4fO256_WS2JDNKTznhKolQHdofhJ_b6Plomi5Fit7cR5xSFjcB1tSQhwLmFaEfPx2WR2qVjTIsn4GHbJ7KBsQalCVQ3Q/s1600/P1050330.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1O3_lQSuT8IhIrFv7hZ-Mr8cC8C1wnPFPerjRlG02AE4fO256_WS2JDNKTznhKolQHdofhJ_b6Plomi5Fit7cR5xSFjcB1tSQhwLmFaEfPx2WR2qVjTIsn4GHbJ7KBsQalCVQ3Q/s640/P1050330.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1cG0I2u8AuPeG-VWzbYokP5dOthHJzhRzeQ5-Z9SQlVF_WOXS9V27crME4aBrsK5n1ZTAbyYh_TKaLJkAfwIBbnzudCPiD9DSEy_PD4xfa7AK1rI89-Iuc4auCNj-pQX2CLB9PA/s1600/P1050335.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1cG0I2u8AuPeG-VWzbYokP5dOthHJzhRzeQ5-Z9SQlVF_WOXS9V27crME4aBrsK5n1ZTAbyYh_TKaLJkAfwIBbnzudCPiD9DSEy_PD4xfa7AK1rI89-Iuc4auCNj-pQX2CLB9PA/s640/P1050335.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Unfortunately,
the clouds clamped down for the last 200m, so my summit vistas are imagination
only! I hung around in splendid isolation for 20 minutes on the top, but the
cloud showed no movement, so I turned for home, descending quickly on easy
paths. At the spot where I had seen the falcon earlier, the view had improved,
so I was able to see most of Lake Wanaka, and straight down on to Gendhu and
Parkins Bay, and the Matukituki River. The higher mountains and glaciers around
Mt Aspiring remained stubbornly in cloud, however. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-k-XMlgO0zn9uX8Vw5HaSBU__c0OannYxI6aZgRqtHF6kb83bet5JeyL-z8YhbEoJGatyPNBzmW8mEOBIJV7u4k7GrrbVYix8ogrSqmGc3SEcCFiDMwb8HSm_ZcBXsgVb8uLrog/s1600/P1050340.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-k-XMlgO0zn9uX8Vw5HaSBU__c0OannYxI6aZgRqtHF6kb83bet5JeyL-z8YhbEoJGatyPNBzmW8mEOBIJV7u4k7GrrbVYix8ogrSqmGc3SEcCFiDMwb8HSm_ZcBXsgVb8uLrog/s640/P1050340.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roys Peak, view from the summit (not!)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHuo9HLwurgWPppaR5AKCKn58LNrl6o0KWHIg_KC4ye2rvYt6w_7tf5vfADz5YfjF95A-2417tfLVSnZRsA3B0sxZuRIWPHDtQ2szPzufx9tPJzElAIsWPIwHAQeEaujRoSunalg/s1600/P1050356.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHuo9HLwurgWPppaR5AKCKn58LNrl6o0KWHIg_KC4ye2rvYt6w_7tf5vfADz5YfjF95A-2417tfLVSnZRsA3B0sxZuRIWPHDtQ2szPzufx9tPJzElAIsWPIwHAQeEaujRoSunalg/s640/P1050356.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lake Wanaka on descent from the summit</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix-jIKJbDc07I43CdnwjSK2V4z_QKgR1AHxt3O4x6Crxz3nmsU83RbrZzw8pStlZOnFPIclK6xzviuXywyHAVGWsBHYFjTwihvdK2-xreWdkb5FUA690W-zJbrtd-KCMYFyhM2qQ/s1600/P1050361.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix-jIKJbDc07I43CdnwjSK2V4z_QKgR1AHxt3O4x6Crxz3nmsU83RbrZzw8pStlZOnFPIclK6xzviuXywyHAVGWsBHYFjTwihvdK2-xreWdkb5FUA690W-zJbrtd-KCMYFyhM2qQ/s640/P1050361.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFh_4epPZfzcqChONrfkzjmMYhao1hm-aOfMHT8TLpYYXFxrm7FZBmVORBqoxcgcsok8Pm-BT1uaIZYVoDjEsehyQPv458yZfYSiBbqdndDH70Tkh2F3RvHCkH7yDMAPWc3vzuAA/s1600/P1050365.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFh_4epPZfzcqChONrfkzjmMYhao1hm-aOfMHT8TLpYYXFxrm7FZBmVORBqoxcgcsok8Pm-BT1uaIZYVoDjEsehyQPv458yZfYSiBbqdndDH70Tkh2F3RvHCkH7yDMAPWc3vzuAA/s640/P1050365.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPX0Seox3pQT9nHKgHNWjmKs-XGpNSUD0kdbRqszM3KPh_al6AdtaYEfHBRjvVuh4IRHVlbjNAj2fdr_MO2laU6lRYtBCBb7u33CTNGI-FgXrNS2psBWAPEzeyNBb3-OOHGUnOmw/s1600/P1050369.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPX0Seox3pQT9nHKgHNWjmKs-XGpNSUD0kdbRqszM3KPh_al6AdtaYEfHBRjvVuh4IRHVlbjNAj2fdr_MO2laU6lRYtBCBb7u33CTNGI-FgXrNS2psBWAPEzeyNBb3-OOHGUnOmw/s640/P1050369.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And, of course, the summit cleared when I got to the bottom...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">So,
just about four and a half hours later I was back at the car, ready to
rehydrate and do some more sightseeing in the afternoon. Hooking up again with
my significant other, we enjoyed a beer (Brewski - recommended) at Kai
Whakapai, some good ice cream, then a drive up Mount Aspiring Road towards the
glaciers, relishing great views in bright sunshine of the western flanks of
Roys Peak across Parkins Bay. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXpFflHgwQ-DBOsBqfk3GtmA3M6MNy0uU7x-1zwo5QDgdd5R9lH_yzDB8roNUvXpz-VKhJyUKLPvQa0SRcyEieSrEi3xwjOsVyRDbMVjcB6q_kbR65k-MzobzY5UgtXRLY5MYyvQ/s1600/P1050375.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXpFflHgwQ-DBOsBqfk3GtmA3M6MNy0uU7x-1zwo5QDgdd5R9lH_yzDB8roNUvXpz-VKhJyUKLPvQa0SRcyEieSrEi3xwjOsVyRDbMVjcB6q_kbR65k-MzobzY5UgtXRLY5MYyvQ/s640/P1050375.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roys Peak from Lake Wanaka</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1"><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div><div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Later,
we enjoyed a great dinner at Relishes Café</span><span lang="EN-US">. A fine day indeed. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Next
morning, travelled north towards Haast Pass, enjoying views of both Lake Hawea
and the northern end of Lake Wanaka, although most of the mountain tops were
obscured by cloud. Stunningly beautiful country though. Looked for the start of
another walk I'll save for the future, Isthmus Peak, which will overlook both
lakes beautifully. Another day....</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGxtULRL-3n6vDGCryPJJPZlhhYRUUTnTGG7Bt2stfRp9AX8UZj6IPnpMkgNKQw3adfsteSGlpv42OW3rqpQIUZY1uU-48Pc_BJhJHCm3rfAS9Kq2nK4skFP-vFg7l1OAEPGm9hw/s1600/P1050379.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGxtULRL-3n6vDGCryPJJPZlhhYRUUTnTGG7Bt2stfRp9AX8UZj6IPnpMkgNKQw3adfsteSGlpv42OW3rqpQIUZY1uU-48Pc_BJhJHCm3rfAS9Kq2nK4skFP-vFg7l1OAEPGm9hw/s640/P1050379.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lake Hawea</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiflcYZ51IdvyeuLK_ysFHZ5O_-CL55d4pGYfPkFrT8uWfosJWe0E9sBWA0MIbX1tA9tZFEcAlV4rvnXJhDG0qOnVM-LwrnpSGuLBPXZLCE-vzVH5rBIX8PYTfqrOJqY0d90Cje1g/s1600/P1050383.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiflcYZ51IdvyeuLK_ysFHZ5O_-CL55d4pGYfPkFrT8uWfosJWe0E9sBWA0MIbX1tA9tZFEcAlV4rvnXJhDG0qOnVM-LwrnpSGuLBPXZLCE-vzVH5rBIX8PYTfqrOJqY0d90Cje1g/s640/P1050383.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhka7anxcNNvZ1y56ImmJn9rqkXDRMGvKyHbdA9k1qpVjMopHNFqOUO-SskHWs2WmciIDjXWHTR9pOsKb5E0OuCF_WwKkFi-GdqcD0A8ie1pBDGu76SiGjdSJ6FRIdtkA6TxSHGCw/s1600/P1050385.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhka7anxcNNvZ1y56ImmJn9rqkXDRMGvKyHbdA9k1qpVjMopHNFqOUO-SskHWs2WmciIDjXWHTR9pOsKb5E0OuCF_WwKkFi-GdqcD0A8ie1pBDGu76SiGjdSJ6FRIdtkA6TxSHGCw/s640/P1050385.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwh491ee7AGxXKddMtjUyDEP4oSTEMtS3Kn6AckWvJoN2vGcPN-aIFUOGwX8Y6vrvj9fzT4Q2HXJ_qsrLsTVPvMqdVHDrQYQ7UuKHwI6BusX_sGTHrFAUkWKs9L1Pd_Z6Io4gyRw/s1600/P1020029.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwh491ee7AGxXKddMtjUyDEP4oSTEMtS3Kn6AckWvJoN2vGcPN-aIFUOGwX8Y6vrvj9fzT4Q2HXJ_qsrLsTVPvMqdVHDrQYQ7UuKHwI6BusX_sGTHrFAUkWKs9L1Pd_Z6Io4gyRw/s640/P1020029.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
drove back from Makaroa, through Wanaka and over the Crown Range again to give
the other half the chance for some retail therapy in Queenstown, the centre
bustling with the usual backpacker brigade. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5bSKwTwIOqnio_ibaCDwpKxKHXSguNGS06lN5n5J4NJxFq-oWNcU-6kiX3DA8HZ_UhBe4p7i-dF0VfDqkT5gX9jCDPoPHnC8ff6Ui2I14RzMuY25Xbuy49hNsnv-hJrKVxh-neQ/s1600/P1050392.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5bSKwTwIOqnio_ibaCDwpKxKHXSguNGS06lN5n5J4NJxFq-oWNcU-6kiX3DA8HZ_UhBe4p7i-dF0VfDqkT5gX9jCDPoPHnC8ff6Ui2I14RzMuY25Xbuy49hNsnv-hJrKVxh-neQ/s640/P1050392.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Towards Queenstown, from the Crown Range Road</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">And
then to our overnight stop, the newly opened Hilton, on the approach to Kelvin
Heights and on a lakeside frontage. Nice room, great gym/pool complex, but
hotel deserted and staff 'in your face'...looking for something to do methinks.
Rain finished off the afternoon in a strengthening wind, but who cares...I love
this part of the world. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8cvDQPbu-o1zDpwTG6rtgC5I8NcpdI-N-XQoUFYTjSv0PNqDEt8RVVNfiIuXzSoVPsrzknPRpjtlstAsFd08IvWKrHatTYILgLCAyTpjUhzMLQEWbhdkiTCF3g_MK7PmHjyjCyA/s1600/P1050393.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8cvDQPbu-o1zDpwTG6rtgC5I8NcpdI-N-XQoUFYTjSv0PNqDEt8RVVNfiIuXzSoVPsrzknPRpjtlstAsFd08IvWKrHatTYILgLCAyTpjUhzMLQEWbhdkiTCF3g_MK7PmHjyjCyA/s640/P1050393.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A deserted Hilton</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Dinner
with friends in Lake Hayes, a nice way to finish our visit to this part of New
Zealand.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Next
day, an early flight to Christchurch, about 40-50 minutes rather than a long
day on the road, which is about 400kms of sustained driving. Cloudy most of the
way, as was our drive north from Christchurch. Despite the weather, the scenery
gets increasingly dramatic as you go northwards through North Canterbury,
through the Cheviot region (and scenically very similar, with a lot of sheep
farming and forestry) and finally on to the peninsula which houses Kaikoura, a
small coastal town famed for its whale watching tours. Under normal weather
conditions the town is visibly dwarfed by the mountains just inland (rising to
about 2500m) but no views today. Walked into town from our overnight stop, the
professionally run <a href="http://www.anchorinn.co.nz/">Anchor Motel</a> (recommended), and found a local's pub, packed at
about 1730 and drinking beer dispensed into jugs. Friendly folk, although not
sure I'd want to be in there later on when the booze starts to take effect!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiLGvTXR02gNPV7JZ8VSZ5RBSUgYZMzkHMkZFD6BxHnSR7K-uAsac4q3ERfbi3qatHg2ul6CVxR-rySzGKCNh4Hrtz4U4cdoO7As51Qvn75jJfz4dKgNrsPBTvxyJ1WbcMaTC24A/s1600/P1050397.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiLGvTXR02gNPV7JZ8VSZ5RBSUgYZMzkHMkZFD6BxHnSR7K-uAsac4q3ERfbi3qatHg2ul6CVxR-rySzGKCNh4Hrtz4U4cdoO7As51Qvn75jJfz4dKgNrsPBTvxyJ1WbcMaTC24A/s640/P1050397.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anchor Motel, Kaikoura</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1"><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div><div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Dinner
at the White Morph restaurant, enjoyed good locally sourced, well cooked food,
albeit pricey. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
chose not to do a whale watching tour. I've already seen whales aplenty, and my
other half gets sea sick, recent reports on Kaikoura sightings have been
limited (one sperm whale spotted yesterday) and the weather forecast looked
indifferent, so on the road again to the Malborough wine region...plenty of
yummy Sauvignon Blanc to look forward to!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Before
leaving Kaikoura, I ventured up to the head of the peninsula that the town is
based on. There's a huge backdrop of mountains, albeit somewhat covered in
cloud this morning but it's a dramatic setting, nonetheless. At the end of the
road, there's some interesting coastal rock formations and a resting place for
fur seals, enabling relatively close-up photography. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZXeZM24dfAVFODRbLyTOUTZbekH4R4HjxGMnUR8jAv3R3PQReS_5tX5cXBURRiJ7mC8L3u3BdEaRquc6jdh27neYFACwAKbmIX0H5_bCMzTKJr8zV8cVaLI_A6Gi_TOZsCZIm2Q/s1600/P1050406.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZXeZM24dfAVFODRbLyTOUTZbekH4R4HjxGMnUR8jAv3R3PQReS_5tX5cXBURRiJ7mC8L3u3BdEaRquc6jdh27neYFACwAKbmIX0H5_bCMzTKJr8zV8cVaLI_A6Gi_TOZsCZIm2Q/s640/P1050406.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coastal scenery near Kaikoura</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio0FZ4pR2nXqM55uMspV65XKEg_yo_2q07QVVScBzOnYtONKUj-ho-QvinzJF0XWP9F9NU48CDiGFx0hczfF3RHzd_raDp60Nc1Lmk2RDGlwZ12Av6BHnvcLMSvW9y-VZdKclwCQ/s1600/P1050411.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio0FZ4pR2nXqM55uMspV65XKEg_yo_2q07QVVScBzOnYtONKUj-ho-QvinzJF0XWP9F9NU48CDiGFx0hczfF3RHzd_raDp60Nc1Lmk2RDGlwZ12Av6BHnvcLMSvW9y-VZdKclwCQ/s640/P1050411.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8qy9KQVifz6idIUpEk_QM3Xtb3jb3RfaK9pLYIv4ewf5OMXirhgunFvYWCZl8mSJQaqE_SCSRXYhcbC7lHZhfdckYiolr9L4p81fKcSP5b4OI2jxQOf_8OYmWqyp49RpiXq3JNQ/s1600/P1050413.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8qy9KQVifz6idIUpEk_QM3Xtb3jb3RfaK9pLYIv4ewf5OMXirhgunFvYWCZl8mSJQaqE_SCSRXYhcbC7lHZhfdckYiolr9L4p81fKcSP5b4OI2jxQOf_8OYmWqyp49RpiXq3JNQ/s640/P1050413.jpg" width="526" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fur seal, Kaikoura</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Then
northwards on the coastal road up towards Picton, the port for ferry crossings
to the North Island (three hours, and often a bumpy ride, so, needless to say,
we'll be taking a flight from Nelson later in the trip!). This is glorious
country, wonderful and changing landscapes inland, and the road runs right up
against the coast for miles. Noisy cicadas to our left, and the crashing
Pacific waves and the odd fur seal colony to our right. Further north, before
reaching the Marlborough wine growing region, there's huge sweeping vistas of
dairy, beef cattle and sheep country in the Awatere region, sheep prominent in
a belt of limestone landscapes...it looked like the White Peak on steroids!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
southern approach to the Marlborough region is really stunning, the verdant
green of the many vineyards contrasting with the parched grassland of the
surrounding hills to the south and the forested slopes of the mountains to the
north of the wide Wairau valley. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsvUD8tA8I63hluIpPeQh7CATKsABtRPEpF-24iHWI9ApdrwaMQ2Be4TPbjZzQbPdSAvrqkOnJA_9I_p2COGLwmbmZY9bVFSUvQULwtqiafCfbMA62hc3CKZY_26o3v5h2MQevyA/s1600/P1050429.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsvUD8tA8I63hluIpPeQh7CATKsABtRPEpF-24iHWI9ApdrwaMQ2Be4TPbjZzQbPdSAvrqkOnJA_9I_p2COGLwmbmZY9bVFSUvQULwtqiafCfbMA62hc3CKZY_26o3v5h2MQevyA/s640/P1050429.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entering the Marlborough wine region</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1"><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div><div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Blenheim
is the key settlement here, nothing to write home about as a town, but an
important transit point for ferry traffic working its way across to Nelson and
south to Christchurch and beyond. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Before
lunch we took another drive, this time up to Picton and west along the scenic
Queen Charlotte Drive, which hugs the south coast of a section of Queen Charlotte
Sound. A very windy road, with lots of lookouts, and the water and bays below
contrasting the multitude of greens from the thick sub-tropical vegetation all
around us. And some of the noisiest cicadas I've ever heard! Beautiful country,
demanding driving!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br /><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrfQ11ARt3xPz4DiUND54K0Vi4MvEBaVSiQf6hWFlVOmI2Ii5DMR1N3Gy3_UhlF7qRMbKkHNkdsw5L9mDOVpgpIvIcOAodqDeYLIPIW6HaX3Uaw2CsgHnGgdMA191cS0y9a0_6nA/s1600/P1050439.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrfQ11ARt3xPz4DiUND54K0Vi4MvEBaVSiQf6hWFlVOmI2Ii5DMR1N3Gy3_UhlF7qRMbKkHNkdsw5L9mDOVpgpIvIcOAodqDeYLIPIW6HaX3Uaw2CsgHnGgdMA191cS0y9a0_6nA/s640/P1050439.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Queen Charlotte Sound</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAq9Kb-eDLdhA2rEzS9ZdDujXidOowsxVrZ5gPP0lEsyoV5kmpiWkA99ke07I0Wqm9aUOaHbihkHuecoO9r2R85vBOZUbcExtrKm20WmyCZfwQzOI1M6UUVt7QNDvjdu4oYG_e8Q/s1600/P1050450.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAq9Kb-eDLdhA2rEzS9ZdDujXidOowsxVrZ5gPP0lEsyoV5kmpiWkA99ke07I0Wqm9aUOaHbihkHuecoO9r2R85vBOZUbcExtrKm20WmyCZfwQzOI1M6UUVt7QNDvjdu4oYG_e8Q/s640/P1050450.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbkSmqohQ8Rdsq1bPmvhbL5eBwKF01Qjw-M-q-pgF4_Wt3__JeEojckJS7GJrG-uKbRRNQfJXmfZfCF5SyGaZORcg69fYTIapfhXBUDiPL4DXJZuAz1RKE7DZnFQvxIwRUacCdIQ/s1600/P1050452.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbkSmqohQ8Rdsq1bPmvhbL5eBwKF01Qjw-M-q-pgF4_Wt3__JeEojckJS7GJrG-uKbRRNQfJXmfZfCF5SyGaZORcg69fYTIapfhXBUDiPL4DXJZuAz1RKE7DZnFQvxIwRUacCdIQ/s640/P1050452.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cicada...noisy little bugger!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1"><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div><div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Back
from Havelock to the Wairau valley for lunch, and enjoyed a decent platter of
cheeses and p</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial unicode ms";">â</span><span lang="EN-US">t</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial unicode ms";">é</span><span lang="EN-US"> at Geoge Michel vineyard near
Renwick, washed down with a tasting of their wines. Good food, slow service. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Our
accommodation for the night is on the Ryland Estate, a small fruit farm,
growing cherry, apricots, grapefruit and apples. Nice room, overlooking
beautiful gardens and very peaceful, virtually next to the Wairau River. Would
recommend but looks like the owners are selling up...</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br /><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg90_XgTYDxLzvbwbT_fwaPO2L3Cm4UjeahTelH0t6OTec_ryy1UP_xKY0UfTov0Hg1SdtayyjS4nHitzQX8sHmQZHNCcdS7rQJ2oGMbQROEr5VemCQaQ3xxhDAUWewzMopmX-WOw/s1600/P1050456.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg90_XgTYDxLzvbwbT_fwaPO2L3Cm4UjeahTelH0t6OTec_ryy1UP_xKY0UfTov0Hg1SdtayyjS4nHitzQX8sHmQZHNCcdS7rQJ2oGMbQROEr5VemCQaQ3xxhDAUWewzMopmX-WOw/s640/P1050456.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marlborough wine country</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnomXfgN6w_hsOxCjVxXaP4hx57j9zfitGzRBxO7bpvEXNOWfuadcNMAr5ZHnSeuJstZNA2cxr2YnYV1laLv24RfccYLNGwwQeSAHM3C_esxpkMBIxsRP3PWxNH99absoxy9Om-Q/s1600/P1050469.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnomXfgN6w_hsOxCjVxXaP4hx57j9zfitGzRBxO7bpvEXNOWfuadcNMAr5ZHnSeuJstZNA2cxr2YnYV1laLv24RfccYLNGwwQeSAHM3C_esxpkMBIxsRP3PWxNH99absoxy9Om-Q/s640/P1050469.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhT_V2IysFzP7s26Te0CCh6RYKjOyFRkJNo7daBJsSKPEUN334N77wyeHZIBOpsnYipby-UdpJG-kcYGzYeYb0IKhRqT1r1JKJGX2sTnz2eNFxk-vxnkjyZoDPnZ63Cbsz6vkaeg/s1600/P1050478.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhT_V2IysFzP7s26Te0CCh6RYKjOyFRkJNo7daBJsSKPEUN334N77wyeHZIBOpsnYipby-UdpJG-kcYGzYeYb0IKhRqT1r1JKJGX2sTnz2eNFxk-vxnkjyZoDPnZ63Cbsz6vkaeg/s640/P1050478.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Wanted
some simple food tonight, and, despite being in the middle of NZ's biggest
producing wine region, actually fancied a beer. As luck would have it, we went
in the opposite direction to Blenheim and found, would you believe it, an
'English Pub' in the small town of Renwick, the Cork & Keg. A great pint of
<a href="http://www.moabeer.com/">Moa</a></span><span lang="EN-US">, albeit 5.5% abv,
and pork pie with English mustard. Perfick.
</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br /><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioQTtWZkrWglomqt_2LeKCW8knNZt1liuZfYR0R2KYnPkwQkOK445wF_rkxohF7ZlaQDwFndQfpkR-4BZZjIRKc6_t46e6gI6HB5nrNv9H8DdnJKrru6u_N6A0Qv7vyo_sxiXXFA/s1600/P1050482.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioQTtWZkrWglomqt_2LeKCW8knNZt1liuZfYR0R2KYnPkwQkOK445wF_rkxohF7ZlaQDwFndQfpkR-4BZZjIRKc6_t46e6gI6HB5nrNv9H8DdnJKrru6u_N6A0Qv7vyo_sxiXXFA/s640/P1050482.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Like it!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
slow start this morning, enjoying a walk around the extensive orchard garden at
Ryland, before setting off for an early tasting session at the nearby Cloudy
Bay winery. Their standard Sauvignon Blanc is very much in vogue at present,
but for me it presents too much gushing fruit to have much appeal. I was
attracted, however, to their barrel fermented version called Te Koko, 2008
vintage, which had much greater complexity and appeal. Needless to say, a
bottle was purchased to help us through the next couple of evenings. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwkGkffHEReTib7j3sYOusXRdwek1JnXZBl7tEG_rgzf42Iie8VRDNHVNtVI9bwyyBI5JRq9SiYTanR3ooip3ZsKykNUfmjNJEDnS83CvK_ExNv4Nd6-mWD4_LQMG_m7-Mza_MSw/s1600/P1050485.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwkGkffHEReTib7j3sYOusXRdwek1JnXZBl7tEG_rgzf42Iie8VRDNHVNtVI9bwyyBI5JRq9SiYTanR3ooip3ZsKykNUfmjNJEDnS83CvK_ExNv4Nd6-mWD4_LQMG_m7-Mza_MSw/s640/P1050485.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cloudy Bay winery</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div><div class="Body1"><span lang="EN-US">Then on to
the road again, north, then west for a couple of hours to Nelson, on the north
coast of the South Island. This was a busy and ultimately very windy and hilly
road through many forested mountains, and convoys formed behind the many motor
caravans touring the region. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Nelson
is a pleasant little town, busting away, with a rather awkwardly designed
cathedral on a hill immediately south of the town centre. We had a late lunch
at Melrose House in Nelson, good quality food and nice surroundings although we
both felt that they had overly complicated the dishes. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br /><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhMoH_4vjpSLCf6nYQFoAu6a-JBxGClLGGroqbCjzroVEn6Dj5QU9h7tGFnZX8OGf8er1sPQvzcHmg5YqwYbMRHt16BmK3XLGjxu6PeJW_bwH5vb93HFYKdYkcjQL4i2lWZmgVnw/s1600/P1020053.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhMoH_4vjpSLCf6nYQFoAu6a-JBxGClLGGroqbCjzroVEn6Dj5QU9h7tGFnZX8OGf8er1sPQvzcHmg5YqwYbMRHt16BmK3XLGjxu6PeJW_bwH5vb93HFYKdYkcjQL4i2lWZmgVnw/s640/P1020053.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cathedral in Nelson</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1"><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div><div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">En
route to our accommodation for the next two nights we stopped off at a bottle
shop run by a new craft brewery in Nelson called <a href="http://www.sprigandfern.co.nz/">Sprig & Fern</a>, and 2L of
their excellent Pale Ale were enthusiastically purchased.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
found ourselves on the beautiful Kina Peninsula half an hour later, and settled
into our boutique B&B, the <a href="https://www.almyrawaterfrontlodge.co.nz" target="_blank">Almyra at Kina</a>, for the duration of the day,
enjoying hot sunshine on our deck with extensive views to the tidal lagoon
behind the peninsula and the mountains to the south of us. Absolutely splendid.
And, of course, the beer was broached. Yum.
</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br /><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbQNkjtkDhCQJTXxjbGAvmY1mG0S2vdmLhVl4qa1tGPSXWXhhn4Ud58wBlR40eT4KVobsVfs3mShqOtZHUNN0KgNWeE44kKDwfOuhEKRTcaR-TDEoVd3cC6dxdUX0FvLEhSvvoNQ/s1600/P1050491.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbQNkjtkDhCQJTXxjbGAvmY1mG0S2vdmLhVl4qa1tGPSXWXhhn4Ud58wBlR40eT4KVobsVfs3mShqOtZHUNN0KgNWeE44kKDwfOuhEKRTcaR-TDEoVd3cC6dxdUX0FvLEhSvvoNQ/s640/P1050491.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The fabulous Almyra at Kina</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1"><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div><div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Next
morning, dragging a reluctant wife, who gets seasick and doesn't really like
walking unless she's following a little white ball, to a water taxi to walk a
section of the famed Abel Tasman trail was going to be a challenge I thought,
but in reality it was like leading a lamb to the slaughter. I think peer group
pressure at home had something to do with it, and the fact I had given her the
option to opt out (so she effectively volunteered back in...!) and I prepared her breakfast...</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br /><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBiDmvYbZXjKKavr7zLQfLaFMAz4AG5qlWDq_osWcHXF1mreJLRzs5uBuYu8VPpEINXt8Y3BoqwGawFRCTLtDTPlNZW3WZ-dWx6Sb4QtCKL_pEfFoxZLTmE6hWCI_NTW1-eYLh9Q/s1600/P1050496.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBiDmvYbZXjKKavr7zLQfLaFMAz4AG5qlWDq_osWcHXF1mreJLRzs5uBuYu8VPpEINXt8Y3BoqwGawFRCTLtDTPlNZW3WZ-dWx6Sb4QtCKL_pEfFoxZLTmE6hWCI_NTW1-eYLh9Q/s640/P1050496.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Early morning at Almyra on the Kina Peninsula</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3fs0nlxQcuwcvn8wVy_MmmAmbs2bcVtmHK2VBjSZKr6u1pVhDAI_J4giF7JuX7bHXIT155L3y1MEeZcAX-qPt4myWq1rbX3KO_C6G9W79aeRm3s_Ljw6fjrxA1L0N5vf9AZNkLA/s1600/P1050509.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3fs0nlxQcuwcvn8wVy_MmmAmbs2bcVtmHK2VBjSZKr6u1pVhDAI_J4giF7JuX7bHXIT155L3y1MEeZcAX-qPt4myWq1rbX3KO_C6G9W79aeRm3s_Ljw6fjrxA1L0N5vf9AZNkLA/s640/P1050509.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1knfeLJfqTR6Tokt0DewqOb18d6Y_WHfhDNKOg8qcGlZL3vBytejE6ZPCNDtoykCNunpZ_-QvM4IBfuIIFrDhlRXUQfTeIV5CUsgvh2AH8H_hQrJWzosmCIlpT-Hwo_e96GDo9A/s1600/P1050510.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1knfeLJfqTR6Tokt0DewqOb18d6Y_WHfhDNKOg8qcGlZL3vBytejE6ZPCNDtoykCNunpZ_-QvM4IBfuIIFrDhlRXUQfTeIV5CUsgvh2AH8H_hQrJWzosmCIlpT-Hwo_e96GDo9A/s640/P1050510.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">After
half an hour on the road west from Kina, through extensive commercial orchards
growing kiwi fruit, nectarines and plums, we caught the water taxi from
Kaiteriteri. It took one hour, and it was a fast catamaran on calm seas which
called in on a couple of bays beforehand that avoided any sea sickness. </span><br /><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMhyphenhyphenVxYSLb7S2-jAOStx8YcMfVFUJv0vJ1sJs3v0l5Cz1ggRJ_xn1fQ8GRn-Ob5l9mM-MQ8Zltw6abfWyL19GUvIN2AWt-1lWmyxFNZMyBi0TlCE9T5GiutWSWBSMZIFLpnm23JA/s1600/P1050519.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMhyphenhyphenVxYSLb7S2-jAOStx8YcMfVFUJv0vJ1sJs3v0l5Cz1ggRJ_xn1fQ8GRn-Ob5l9mM-MQ8Zltw6abfWyL19GUvIN2AWt-1lWmyxFNZMyBi0TlCE9T5GiutWSWBSMZIFLpnm23JA/s640/P1050519.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Water taxi to Bark Bay, start of our Abel Tasman walk</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzeRn02QPrCozxTCVhDxzhDl0bq-Fo0S5lf33J_G7hkrDm48llBXAqs2hTcd3_w0x6fEW3uNeOxkrJBbLLhhcuFb71l4eKNP6Zyy4jb9aKyloWgXUsIKqdYWT_aQ0KUd1uzHD91Q/s1600/P1050522.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzeRn02QPrCozxTCVhDxzhDl0bq-Fo0S5lf33J_G7hkrDm48llBXAqs2hTcd3_w0x6fEW3uNeOxkrJBbLLhhcuFb71l4eKNP6Zyy4jb9aKyloWgXUsIKqdYWT_aQ0KUd1uzHD91Q/s640/P1050522.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-US">Barks
Bay was an attractive drop off and we powered up the track to lose the other
souls who had landed with us. We had the track to ourselves a good part of the
way, wending its way over numerous
ridges and then down into valleys draining into the sea, a good path albeit
with limited views beyond the dense tropical vegetation, enormous ferns, vines
and black truncked beech trees due to the high levels of tannin they contain. A
suspension bridge crossing and occasional views of the many bays below us
enlivened the walk on occasion, but this popular section, Bark Bay to Torrent
Bay, is mainly a high level forest traverse and pretty easy walking on a
well-surfaced track, although there are one or two steep ascents and descents. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br /><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe8g0Ab3e1oKTrvd918ZmxJsc7QCehVqQE9i2974ts4iSxiR6P524JSxNgjuDOLLoxEsNS0Rvb9ij-JPTv-TbkYDmiPowbkR-20QnxIOF-_OEqH5rhvTbd3roxc_l7zELwUw0JQg/s1600/P1050526.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe8g0Ab3e1oKTrvd918ZmxJsc7QCehVqQE9i2974ts4iSxiR6P524JSxNgjuDOLLoxEsNS0Rvb9ij-JPTv-TbkYDmiPowbkR-20QnxIOF-_OEqH5rhvTbd3roxc_l7zELwUw0JQg/s640/P1050526.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the Abel Tasman tramp, Bark Bay to Torrent Bay section</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUBQGsnAikVNXuxnqqGeme7iRxC3txUhtDtdhn9WgNrSv-KLAaRRR6-uUlwQpeZhgT-kTnr7TGP17vbFC5SRKl3paydelA6GFQq129UoyZ_VnEOiLBXluzrZePjSR_IJK0qRQHZw/s1600/P1050530.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUBQGsnAikVNXuxnqqGeme7iRxC3txUhtDtdhn9WgNrSv-KLAaRRR6-uUlwQpeZhgT-kTnr7TGP17vbFC5SRKl3paydelA6GFQq129UoyZ_VnEOiLBXluzrZePjSR_IJK0qRQHZw/s640/P1050530.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8GmcR3IQm2k9_DcD7R3AHq0i7YyDX1Ny1yAJnY_teplAoU52DCHpqsmF1fGx2b4edwWHmd6O06wZAzVQYttBpKo53a5buOG833hT2DQ56rb1RySqkkhrfU2A09rwxzqJOpx2O7A/s1600/P1050532.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8GmcR3IQm2k9_DcD7R3AHq0i7YyDX1Ny1yAJnY_teplAoU52DCHpqsmF1fGx2b4edwWHmd6O06wZAzVQYttBpKo53a5buOG833hT2DQ56rb1RySqkkhrfU2A09rwxzqJOpx2O7A/s640/P1050532.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNFrfKduwYqGc-VdU08tQcGi_bF36kNChx_wbCjjy8rF8SMKM2jyzOdE8-G9MJKw1tqIcS7GexkHx1Z7zXoD1pHIVYMcUKYgE0HwbqeOPGBtFUyLE6NKpWx9YKbaZw1wWJlEgmJA/s1600/P1050549.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNFrfKduwYqGc-VdU08tQcGi_bF36kNChx_wbCjjy8rF8SMKM2jyzOdE8-G9MJKw1tqIcS7GexkHx1Z7zXoD1pHIVYMcUKYgE0HwbqeOPGBtFUyLE6NKpWx9YKbaZw1wWJlEgmJA/s640/P1050549.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Falls River suspension bridge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm9pCTpKG15QBNrfSLwdwwOwjIMVlWfOzCawvLAURqrC9zwNSrnk-SpP-3ScEu_k7uX97QUhEOcZP-muhPc5VQN5xZfvWibKN77kGFhaaYPZIIn5-xEb0tguJ3LVem2lVdzPzrvQ/s1600/P1050550.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm9pCTpKG15QBNrfSLwdwwOwjIMVlWfOzCawvLAURqrC9zwNSrnk-SpP-3ScEu_k7uX97QUhEOcZP-muhPc5VQN5xZfvWibKN77kGFhaaYPZIIn5-xEb0tguJ3LVem2lVdzPzrvQ/s640/P1050550.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiienXHnUSmeT-SbQ3rD-Kljb-2wgLenDMm6oEAdZ4OXXAkk9IAQckyNSJcsXTU3_iizUKm2HQqWuCWCfFhrH8XBUW347AOuPJj3kz8KnYs_BXJaTkwukBl8Z8iDKkr_Z96fT_3Lw/s1600/P1050551.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiienXHnUSmeT-SbQ3rD-Kljb-2wgLenDMm6oEAdZ4OXXAkk9IAQckyNSJcsXTU3_iizUKm2HQqWuCWCfFhrH8XBUW347AOuPJj3kz8KnYs_BXJaTkwukBl8Z8iDKkr_Z96fT_3Lw/s640/P1050551.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5JH2OPzkgBZtEraWSdFTPZQOnIdgTCJZkRZ6PJXwPfTD5jW7Ev8XUrG1phUr2uliRs9PoCOo1IZGRl3p0nkQ5RR48KpVoTkBT0gMwVxAbXqgrJMVH-yxvdDcJQmFaV63oKtKZRQ/s1600/P1050559.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5JH2OPzkgBZtEraWSdFTPZQOnIdgTCJZkRZ6PJXwPfTD5jW7Ev8XUrG1phUr2uliRs9PoCOo1IZGRl3p0nkQ5RR48KpVoTkBT0gMwVxAbXqgrJMVH-yxvdDcJQmFaV63oKtKZRQ/s640/P1050559.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
good lady performed well, only complaining once on one sustained uphill
section, but was otherwise impressive on the hill...I expect the cost will be
dear when we next go to a shopping mall!</span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">An
easy couple of hours found us in Torrents Bay, with a couple of hours to kill
before our water taxi was due to pick us up. Anyhow, the time passed and,
wading into the shallows we leapt on to the boat and were back in Kaiteriteri
on schedule, ready for a quick pint of Sprig & Fern's excellent IPA in
their Motueka pub before returning to our rather nice digs for the night.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">An
easy day, but very hot, probably the hottest day of our trip so far.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNpWaHUwuv8r6ZOLZoVLi65amU3eTv02qRqdjBvNZ-7Y6spcDTOZjnj1TWUw1D4RgnQGVNoOylZ2VITYEjhWeOsp-S_VNtGhJgj4a67LI9opO0H46ujsTJ-UPq1igauJ9y_skqIw/s1600/P1050564.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNpWaHUwuv8r6ZOLZoVLi65amU3eTv02qRqdjBvNZ-7Y6spcDTOZjnj1TWUw1D4RgnQGVNoOylZ2VITYEjhWeOsp-S_VNtGhJgj4a67LI9opO0H46ujsTJ-UPq1igauJ9y_skqIw/s640/P1050564.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib8sRunk8YdOM_sqIvTu-YfTmqSjofu7K0Gr1XbE0eSKiyTtMKEnyQHMtg1IFD21k4Y1k8gQWlhzuCZ805kv0Bnlr8j3dV-x6U9xGSyXWQ7iREOijfnVaUN31F6RFdIkcuHZ6maA/s1600/P1050574.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib8sRunk8YdOM_sqIvTu-YfTmqSjofu7K0Gr1XbE0eSKiyTtMKEnyQHMtg1IFD21k4Y1k8gQWlhzuCZ805kv0Bnlr8j3dV-x6U9xGSyXWQ7iREOijfnVaUN31F6RFdIkcuHZ6maA/s640/P1050574.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approaching Torrents Bay</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJFmYduQk9pshexMu-oqcjl8iOmNFvDZ9YY15__JnbJ0OnRIZqpPQ-i7keIvjkCgxviPNWdfn7GDdy2WZOq1TYWXgEosvn0Frbks8ic9NxjqOhNf5vAZTM8_oDmF5FUghiIZSYow/s1600/P1050577.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJFmYduQk9pshexMu-oqcjl8iOmNFvDZ9YY15__JnbJ0OnRIZqpPQ-i7keIvjkCgxviPNWdfn7GDdy2WZOq1TYWXgEosvn0Frbks8ic9NxjqOhNf5vAZTM8_oDmF5FUghiIZSYow/s640/P1050577.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYAr7olw1Saw90bGZYYQcGmituF1sihjnS2HY3sEMlC4cSAG-ZddNLTWiHZp6OBMYTF36OU8CdIHdt-3HTTTksGSa0RCW3aROx68sDXF1HItYoushCa1etS8zrKhn9L07b23klow/s1600/P1050589.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYAr7olw1Saw90bGZYYQcGmituF1sihjnS2HY3sEMlC4cSAG-ZddNLTWiHZp6OBMYTF36OU8CdIHdt-3HTTTksGSa0RCW3aROx68sDXF1HItYoushCa1etS8zrKhn9L07b23klow/s640/P1050589.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaving Torrents Bay</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW_Vwi-HOaBHtkEc_EpF6aDi7EYvw7zqxE02wvr1mmRZmqVpKlwqhlwolciNoPbBEligKEaHDOW5g6eQIU4fPPZ09zGvYCsGpkFWjnt7kFLK46HOCWC5PQ26HLQ-CASVtVO5okkQ/s1600/P1050592.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW_Vwi-HOaBHtkEc_EpF6aDi7EYvw7zqxE02wvr1mmRZmqVpKlwqhlwolciNoPbBEligKEaHDOW5g6eQIU4fPPZ09zGvYCsGpkFWjnt7kFLK46HOCWC5PQ26HLQ-CASVtVO5okkQ/s640/P1050592.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGSJU5E1sVRVKs3e9FTMdeDwWtFCjFWcCtNVWyf1b2w8HCAXhug2zDG53DSobpEMO72iTyoIw6q3zoY0OYrhJ1KiGVM4ONN-SC0gPL66XkCferB53HVi2XyYNOXNBi0Lido6qmaA/s1600/P1050593.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGSJU5E1sVRVKs3e9FTMdeDwWtFCjFWcCtNVWyf1b2w8HCAXhug2zDG53DSobpEMO72iTyoIw6q3zoY0OYrhJ1KiGVM4ONN-SC0gPL66XkCferB53HVi2XyYNOXNBi0Lido6qmaA/s640/P1050593.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Madam's reward!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Tomorrow
brings us to the North Island of New Zealand, with a short flight over the Cook
Strait from Nelson to Wellington. Let's hope the weather holds for next week
too...a big walk on the Tongariro Crossing planned for the end of next week
(surprise, surprise, just me this time!).</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br />
<span lang="EN-US"><b>North Island</b></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><b><br /></b></span>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;">Sunday now, and through the tiny Nelson airport for the 25 minute hop to New Zealand's capital, Wellington. This is greatly preferable to a drive back to Picton through the mountains and a three hour plus ferry across the usually windy and choppy Cook Strait.</span></b></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">It's
an impressive approach into Wellington, across the headland and bays, with some
magnificent property straddling the ridges all around the city. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Wellington
was very busy with weekend traffic, but we were quickly parked up at our city
centre hotel, the Mercure, with a room affording views over the CBD and harbour
beyond.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Personally,
I'm not that enamoured with the city centre...rather dowdy '60s concrete
architecture is pervasive, and there's a certain scruffiness about some of the
streets, the popular Cuba Street being one of them. The townscape improves as
you approach the Lambton Harbour area, through the rather strangely designed
Civic Square and along the quay to Te Papa, a rather good museum of all things
New Zealand, with some good interactive exhibits...I liked the huge satellite map
of NZ that you could literally walk over and study, and the earthquake
simulation. Great museum for the kids...lots of buttons to push! The
anti-whaling ship Bob Barker (seashepherd.org) was in port. Had a pint of Mac's
hoppy Pilsner in the Mac Ale House at the bottom of Taranaki St...good but not
as good as Sprig & Fern's magnificent Pale Ale. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhabqvApHNIqPDA9IbgkM5Vh_oGvos_SEHhcCejjSAz_GjkxFBK_zKtKvvt87_IkW-X34DNYVkg2Gwb06rV7sWjTruU28giFh9KoTCHaU0NyetUojSTQkPUiVj6ebTilkJi1uH7CA/s1600/P1050597.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhabqvApHNIqPDA9IbgkM5Vh_oGvos_SEHhcCejjSAz_GjkxFBK_zKtKvvt87_IkW-X34DNYVkg2Gwb06rV7sWjTruU28giFh9KoTCHaU0NyetUojSTQkPUiVj6ebTilkJi1uH7CA/s640/P1050597.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wellington</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_5DvNR68XkHBvfQrpduj_vGskajzVuY-g_8PPU6um3x9GDzUM1wvHItLJ06h1RXibjnmL0E0U2fEWBW-mFOVAj-arDDHduoJ1RHpC7sb-ZEyFm9rothyphenhyphenDNS7olA-bQsB9xDTMDQ/s1600/P1050607.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_5DvNR68XkHBvfQrpduj_vGskajzVuY-g_8PPU6um3x9GDzUM1wvHItLJ06h1RXibjnmL0E0U2fEWBW-mFOVAj-arDDHduoJ1RHpC7sb-ZEyFm9rothyphenhyphenDNS7olA-bQsB9xDTMDQ/s640/P1050607.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhprSEQEaN4ZKdMKdWPK4v68jBNUvpUWjKUlyuActlpA9wRqmo3iclexz0l3XxSDil5Vi4sUJuLBbx9InzpqwCH1dk36AprA-YJs7uceHcqQ1BqujzSsTQ1rbOvH5a5OcfrMaYzTA/s1600/P1050610.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhprSEQEaN4ZKdMKdWPK4v68jBNUvpUWjKUlyuActlpA9wRqmo3iclexz0l3XxSDil5Vi4sUJuLBbx9InzpqwCH1dk36AprA-YJs7uceHcqQ1BqujzSsTQ1rbOvH5a5OcfrMaYzTA/s640/P1050610.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNMM-D8XQr232FbGjo0Ovmb4jdr3FABaD8AvQO_Y1B8lHyuhszyzMtVnv7daRcAqbU5bDJaZ48RPiNxAAjUuJl_win9oGi2z16FthNPzjS2S90-4ZNE_U4bOtUVstp1qyf8O75gA/s1600/P1050613.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNMM-D8XQr232FbGjo0Ovmb4jdr3FABaD8AvQO_Y1B8lHyuhszyzMtVnv7daRcAqbU5bDJaZ48RPiNxAAjUuJl_win9oGi2z16FthNPzjS2S90-4ZNE_U4bOtUVstp1qyf8O75gA/s640/P1050613.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Te Papa Museum, Wellington</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSsoeJmKL_RGB11Oh8rchTHAehGK9edeROdVBlo5oPNbb_M1C53h1JYWIV0YzkynDlxSLYUF4bbkStEYNC8qjnQRRwKWY5o0BP-HQKsmWF7snYPtdRsT-TdNsNSn2ZPdrj-c98BQ/s1600/P1050620.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSsoeJmKL_RGB11Oh8rchTHAehGK9edeROdVBlo5oPNbb_M1C53h1JYWIV0YzkynDlxSLYUF4bbkStEYNC8qjnQRRwKWY5o0BP-HQKsmWF7snYPtdRsT-TdNsNSn2ZPdrj-c98BQ/s640/P1050620.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wellington</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">So
mixed feelings about Wellington, it was always intended to be a quick overnight
stop en route to the Hawke's Bay vineyards, so I think one afternoon is quite
sufficient. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
cloudy start to the following day, but we were quickly on our way north and
east, fortunately in the opposite direction to the Wellington rush hour. There
are two routes to choose on our way to the Hawke's Bay wine region, one via the
Kapiti coast and then northeast passing by Palmerston North, or the route we
elected to take, the inland route, initially through the Hutt Valley and then
over the vertiginous Rimutaka Hill, a series of many hairpin bends up and over
between two valley systems which deeply dissect heavily forested slopes. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
missed out on visiting the tourist town of Martinborough because we had a good
four hour drive ahead of us, but stopped for a quick breakfast in the Victorian
main street of Greytown, enjoying (or was it enduring?) strong coffee in a
popular French bakery there. Then onwards through sheep and dairy country,
passing through rolling hills with distant views to the huge Tararua Forest
Park to our left, much of it shrouded in cloud as we were hit by frequent short
showers along the way. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Although
we didn't stop to go searching for the elusive kiwi, we passed through areas it
inhabits, an area heavily felled by Scandinavian settlers in the late 19th
century. Some attractive towns here, mainly serving as agricultural supply
centres, some supplementing their economy with woollen and craft food
offerings. We also passed the TUI Brewery, sporting a classic brew house with
multiple floors. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
scenery never disappointed and eventually we entered into wine country one again,
passing some well-known names like CJ Pask, Villa Maria, etc., this region
accounting for 90% of New Zealand's wine output. We lunched at Te Awa,
competent food washed down with their 2009 Cabernet Merlot. Sleepy eyes
afterwards!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
short final push took us around the coastal town of Napier, now famed for its
Art Deco reconstruction following the destruction of the town back in 1931
following a massive earthquake. Our next two nights are in the <a href="https://www.eskvalleylodge.com" target="_blank">Esk Valley Lodge</a>, 12 km north of Napier, beautifully located amidst its own vineyard and
fruit orchards. Chill time! </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0eE7SeVqrWDvT6meDiGNbPNZc-4Z4-In8OpyMvRP79cxWNWBpwuAvJoVfDRNcxW_Euamgp7HwSONLQ3W2-vRYOaEEgKEuosGL8P0IMcwPnqggoiONTtXRXRpbPtIN5RbLhwIBzg/s1600/P1050628.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0eE7SeVqrWDvT6meDiGNbPNZc-4Z4-In8OpyMvRP79cxWNWBpwuAvJoVfDRNcxW_Euamgp7HwSONLQ3W2-vRYOaEEgKEuosGL8P0IMcwPnqggoiONTtXRXRpbPtIN5RbLhwIBzg/s640/P1050628.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hawke's Bay wine region: Chardonnay vines near Napier</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-I4b1uDRnIB7wuFQXRXsK3VvfZd16LxbKVwc6ZPOoPJhyOIix1CJ7SVx01g-J8w5sKDzYg8k_vXegLi73LUQaIMkUHZMbqTgl3cw7P5WfqkGevVPqTCM6xprxVbTa7eXK6phryA/s1600/P1050634.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-I4b1uDRnIB7wuFQXRXsK3VvfZd16LxbKVwc6ZPOoPJhyOIix1CJ7SVx01g-J8w5sKDzYg8k_vXegLi73LUQaIMkUHZMbqTgl3cw7P5WfqkGevVPqTCM6xprxVbTa7eXK6phryA/s640/P1050634.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Esk Valley Lodge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Suitably
rested (apart from 4.1 level tremor at 0451 which woke me) we set out next day
to tour the Art Deco architecture of nearby Napier, visit one of the top 50
golf courses in the world, Cape Kidnappers, and taste a little more local wine.
Napier lived up to expectations, having been completely rebuilt in the early
1930s after a devastating 7.8 level earthquake which had levelled the town in
1931. Art Deco buildings dominate the city centre, and the whole town is tidy
and well tended. I just wish the local planners had insisted that all the
retail signage had been reproduced in Art Deco typefaces as well...modern bank
and coffee chain logos rather weaken the overall effect. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIlCnzZR6c2EkxGCUfGQV_Cwd3dalHsqOZOd9FyAaDwxNGO1c1cTIb9BAQpYmKIXCypEZoJlBWgjYw7AdNjTOWnNA8HkoAN5ndlrI16LcPvepr8JN82r5Cd-gbqLCwSmRdlkbKUw/s1600/P1050638.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIlCnzZR6c2EkxGCUfGQV_Cwd3dalHsqOZOd9FyAaDwxNGO1c1cTIb9BAQpYmKIXCypEZoJlBWgjYw7AdNjTOWnNA8HkoAN5ndlrI16LcPvepr8JN82r5Cd-gbqLCwSmRdlkbKUw/s640/P1050638.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Art Deco in Napier</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4BT01N8qCFX8uo44clmsVo533lqibz4lfWS3Md0cqLhXgFdLHGTDP6mEOt-3hOrJEzrNx_Mm-koMcxzGMpcISOJoN73s-xYDy_xfX5t9TisGo6kItdcxUquC52VtOwH4ZjMj9DQ/s1600/P1050639.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4BT01N8qCFX8uo44clmsVo533lqibz4lfWS3Md0cqLhXgFdLHGTDP6mEOt-3hOrJEzrNx_Mm-koMcxzGMpcISOJoN73s-xYDy_xfX5t9TisGo6kItdcxUquC52VtOwH4ZjMj9DQ/s640/P1050639.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
followed Marine Parade out of town, southwards to reach the awesomely located
Cape Kidnappers Golf Club, just south of the attractive and affluent suburb of
Havelock North. It's a private 8km gated approach to the diminutive but nicely
appointed clubhouse, up through a canyon and bordering a big sheep station. A
friendly, and thankfully unpretentious, staff welcomed us and the other half
had the inevitable retail therapy in the pro shop. We met a young Swedish
professional golfer, Pernilla Lindberg, who had just finished with a creditable
13th place in the NZ Women's Open in Christchurch a week earlier. Nice girl,
and very chatty. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">It's
difficult to view the course from the approach road or the clubhouse, but it
seemed to be the domain of wealthy Americans (like so many other world class
locations). Green fees were NZD440 each, almost </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial unicode ms";">£</span><span lang="EN-US">250 for a round of golf, so we
passed on this occasion. Perhaps I should go back to work?!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
then headed through really attractive countryside (and some beautiful homes) to
the Craggy Hill wine cellars. Very contemporary and well designed buildings and
a patient, well-informed tasting of their excellent Reisling (from their
Martinborough vineyard), their locally grown and lightly oaked Chardonnay, and
a couple of their Pinot Noirs, one from Martinborough vineyards and the other
from the Otago region. Both very light in style, bu elegantly made and
presented. Worth a repeat visit to enjoy their stunningly situated 'Terroir'
restaurant. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuhI-d3AOu_PCbX402xNsfkdcvK_ACoX_U5GwtpbpfkA8QK6K8hBBeGK7ZsRc9XhEBR5tXYTre66cKkj-isMGSkNJOCeWEiwh1bOp1_FmhlNTL4uYbXiGyFaiJrTahf2c1nc7uvQ/s1600/P1050656.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuhI-d3AOu_PCbX402xNsfkdcvK_ACoX_U5GwtpbpfkA8QK6K8hBBeGK7ZsRc9XhEBR5tXYTre66cKkj-isMGSkNJOCeWEiwh1bOp1_FmhlNTL4uYbXiGyFaiJrTahf2c1nc7uvQ/s640/P1050656.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Craggy Hills winery</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL8ulDabScnkDTueS_E-470fLNnnrqBAz8LjZWda1ExZul1nR-tcfVfytzoJt090vjVlaZrUItV_7alSpN28vgo9zunyItypODPd17AwnEttjCV4A3pa5MD67X9y9c1qXZvKUBdQ/s1600/P1050657.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL8ulDabScnkDTueS_E-470fLNnnrqBAz8LjZWda1ExZul1nR-tcfVfytzoJt090vjVlaZrUItV_7alSpN28vgo9zunyItypODPd17AwnEttjCV4A3pa5MD67X9y9c1qXZvKUBdQ/s640/P1050657.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There's clearly money being made in Hawke's Bay!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">To
finish our local tour, we ventured up the steep and exposed road to Te Mata
Peak, which soars to 399m above sea level and offers great views over Hawke's
Bay, Napier, Hastings and the surrounding mountains to the west and south. Well
worth a hairy drive up and down the sealed road. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbc_biz4E3iSz6lRgpAvFvcImwgdC2A3tTwEebk3T1HTKE6iMw81mQMRdd2hzPXtKiUqXy-pVRNVZAan8gPBhCO3zFyKH_u_EzJc-l2uzfXhaIWdSudjAZ7FtTgDxNAk-LPvCnFA/s1600/P1050662.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbc_biz4E3iSz6lRgpAvFvcImwgdC2A3tTwEebk3T1HTKE6iMw81mQMRdd2hzPXtKiUqXy-pVRNVZAan8gPBhCO3zFyKH_u_EzJc-l2uzfXhaIWdSudjAZ7FtTgDxNAk-LPvCnFA/s640/P1050662.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Views from Te Mata Peak, near Napier/Hastings</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbfxoSWI294F4ztDMeLvaBDSJa6zq89yDVSw6imiY73J_XW6suDRB9BO2oyW22yIgbH_Y_jaraA6cdsNQl-IhaAThio8Y_2l2ktg_KaQpCXJvlPWQ0-xYy8rjRYpai3S2USXNuVw/s1600/P1050668.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbfxoSWI294F4ztDMeLvaBDSJa6zq89yDVSw6imiY73J_XW6suDRB9BO2oyW22yIgbH_Y_jaraA6cdsNQl-IhaAThio8Y_2l2ktg_KaQpCXJvlPWQ0-xYy8rjRYpai3S2USXNuVw/s640/P1050668.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Overall,
we liked this area. Civic pride is high, there's some beautiful property and
wonderful countryside running down to the greeny blue waters of Hawke's Bay.
And some good wineries and restaurants to visit. You may consider a small
mortgage to finance golf at Cape Kidnappers, however!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
had dinner at the Restaurant Indonesia on Marine Parade in Napier. We had their
'Supreme' selection of dishes, kept warm on candle burners, called Risjttafel
(literally 'rice table'), many of which were delicious and I helped it down
with a beer called Force Pilsner, brewed by Hawke's Bay Independent
Brewery....a pleasant pilsner in elegant 330ml bottles. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
food was fairly eclectic, as was the background music, but we found the
atmosphere a bit dull...mainly other couples that made us feel young and slim,
and had nothing to say to each other. The other half was gently chided for
ogling a young Maori chap who had a quick evening meal, probably away on
business. Ogling is allowed as long as I can continue to do it too...</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
beautiful evening back at our little farm B&B....the sun gently setting
over the hills to the west of the
vineyards, and the gentle evensong of the local cicadas. Nice. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif5IcWufGOFzXgifkcCR-d9SgqRvTS8qYYhWJdAmcmt36KEjJgTQ0dNJso8Hkq6PBgDkTJUbcQdx7cpcUGnYVHnHYQo1AlG8Mt746EfcbuAfJ_qKa7miDqdvaedHPLmV8y-bSIqw/s1600/P1050674.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif5IcWufGOFzXgifkcCR-d9SgqRvTS8qYYhWJdAmcmt36KEjJgTQ0dNJso8Hkq6PBgDkTJUbcQdx7cpcUGnYVHnHYQo1AlG8Mt746EfcbuAfJ_qKa7miDqdvaedHPLmV8y-bSIqw/s640/P1050674.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Esk Valley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
following day we ventured on to Taupo in the volcanic heartland of the North
Island. But, before departure, our host provided a short tour of his Riesling
and Sauvignon Blanc vineyards, explaining a little about local viniculture, and
how hard it is to make money at present from wine-making. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Like
my last visit to this region, the weather was not too promising, and following
the road out of Napier we were soon into showers and then heavy rain by the
time we arrived in the bustling tourist resort of Taupo itself. The journey
across was still scenically dramatic, driving through huge sandstone and rock
gorges, crossing the 50m high Mohaka River bridge, and observing the triple
flow over Waipunga Falls. Much of the area approaching Taupo itself is under
heavy commercial afforestation, mainly Monterey Pine growing in the Kaingaroa
Plains, on ash soil deposited when the volcano situated in what is now Lake
Taupo erupted back in 186AD. The dormant volcano, Mt Tauhara, which towers over
the south eastern approach to Taupo was, unfortunately, obscured by cloud. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Taupo
itself, rather like Rotorua, smells a little sulphury on the approach, but the
lake is the largest body of freshwater in Australasia. The surrounding hills
and volcanoes remained shrouded in cloud through the day, somewhat compromising
the views from our lake view room in the Suncourt Hotel. Ho hum...</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
poor weather means that, once again, my planned walk across the famous
Tongariro Crossing will have to be aborted. All this way, again!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Taking
lunch in Taupo, we were humbled by the two minute silence to mark the first
anniversary of the Christchurch earthquake. A lazy afternoon followed. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Filthy
weather to start, as predicted, the following day. But the skies brightened
enough for a walk to view the very popular Huka Falls and do a quick canter
over to see the volcanic area of 'Craters of the Moon'. Huka Falls was an
impressive sight following the heavy rain over the last 24 hours. The final
evening was spent in a local Ashtanga Yoga group, hard work compared to my
usual class! And after a quick dinner we were gifted with a splendid sunset
across Lake Taupo, a nice way to finish our trip to New Zealand off. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG6Is5rC5pA1cjDQqe_JVdMpJal7juKzD9o2uiBlr7jxjqv3cALrWiSh2ipqOc3yDPUH_sOImrhqJZveNHTnSuNFHUXSzyq7UNIR1CpejDMGxoeyyAj_fnxsI0odgxLXou4aXhVQ/s1600/P1050681.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG6Is5rC5pA1cjDQqe_JVdMpJal7juKzD9o2uiBlr7jxjqv3cALrWiSh2ipqOc3yDPUH_sOImrhqJZveNHTnSuNFHUXSzyq7UNIR1CpejDMGxoeyyAj_fnxsI0odgxLXou4aXhVQ/s640/P1050681.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Huka Falls</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJa8NthzjisRz14Aabp6J0H9B3njKwJm0Hs4tTir6srl6FU8NkEnU-F_zikup78z_IqiFFfWexEQP4BDF8VAv4g6q4alyvMWcR44ahFtgdxit2ktmhUuKDa5ByopNoG-V9_3ElUw/s1600/P1050687.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJa8NthzjisRz14Aabp6J0H9B3njKwJm0Hs4tTir6srl6FU8NkEnU-F_zikup78z_IqiFFfWexEQP4BDF8VAv4g6q4alyvMWcR44ahFtgdxit2ktmhUuKDa5ByopNoG-V9_3ElUw/s640/P1050687.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja2cm4FNFsr0Uc4X39CWid4QJbBYPIviRlyB-CjJbUkUFo06fycW_KzdvYmivMaC93wVLmmM6dsyzsK6WYONHWBCq3YnznYWhsDh9RWaiMC8KLG49_zR2R-fo2hpPOU4YdVF4RpQ/s1600/P1050696.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja2cm4FNFsr0Uc4X39CWid4QJbBYPIviRlyB-CjJbUkUFo06fycW_KzdvYmivMaC93wVLmmM6dsyzsK6WYONHWBCq3YnznYWhsDh9RWaiMC8KLG49_zR2R-fo2hpPOU4YdVF4RpQ/s640/P1050696.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNAqkmWXWmUe0JigbanymRzDK1fKLsCBLzGIZvOxO5wIu8HbKlRdrDr61NM_3UFcfFJboNAJM97CAAUaYN2e8Nownm44gs2CB7Y8flDtceXK_wiu2VxA_ULdjw24qO7mQg7erc6g/s1600/P1050701.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNAqkmWXWmUe0JigbanymRzDK1fKLsCBLzGIZvOxO5wIu8HbKlRdrDr61NM_3UFcfFJboNAJM97CAAUaYN2e8Nownm44gs2CB7Y8flDtceXK_wiu2VxA_ULdjw24qO7mQg7erc6g/s640/P1050701.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz4t-hlR5dUzie6sr_hfybsgYksr-WIOaoc3rx7lkh9rkG0JfJpTwvqJhizvfIT0rkjyTpo1Md8tIv8YhIiXxkW6w5d9ewusVnIqjGJOiT4EksDXDyxMWVYbfEbG1lE9WqWhjh9w/s1600/P1020070.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz4t-hlR5dUzie6sr_hfybsgYksr-WIOaoc3rx7lkh9rkG0JfJpTwvqJhizvfIT0rkjyTpo1Md8tIv8YhIiXxkW6w5d9ewusVnIqjGJOiT4EksDXDyxMWVYbfEbG1lE9WqWhjh9w/s640/P1020070.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset over Lake Taupo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Last
day in NZ - an early start to drive up to the airport in Auckland, in brighter
weather and attractive countryside north of Taupo, spotting many areas of
vulcanicity, steaming away in the cool morning air. It gets a lot busier around
and beyond Hamilton, but the express way soon gets you to the airport. And
on-time flight to Sydney, a mere 2160km from Auckland, and then our final car
hire and onwards for a long weekend with daughter and hubby in North Bondi. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">Summary</span></b><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">New
Zealand is a frustrating place to visit! Scenically it overloads the senses
from the moment you enter it's airspace. Almost every part of the country's
topography is fascinating, the ecology hugely varied, north and south, east and
west. It's outstandingly beautiful at every turn. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">So
why frustrating? Well, for the amateur photographer with limited time, it's
impossible to know where to start...the landscapes are huge, the colours
amazing, and the sheer quantum of what you'd want to capture is overwhelming.
So, revert to your eyes and hope for good long term memory if you're not
tempted to move down to NZ permanently, something I think about seriously every
time I come this way. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
weather on this and other visits has been mixed, but only what you should
really expect in such a mountaineous country surrounded by the Tasman Sea to
the west, the Southern Ocean to the south, and the Pacific to the east, but
this year's visit has seen some extremes of rainfall, apparently due to La Ni</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial unicode ms";">ñ</span><span lang="EN-US">a, the periodic oscillation in
the atmospheric and oceanic circulation of the Pacific. This was one of the
causes of the flooding in Queensland and NSW observed earlier in the trip and
for the North Island of NZ at least, La Ni</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial unicode ms";">ñ</span><span lang="EN-US">a conditions often bring more north-easterly
winds, which tend to bring moist, rainy conditions. Well, we've certainly seen
that since we arrived!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Accomodation
standards in New Zealand have been high, and we've enjoyed unpretentious food,
drink and hospitality throughout. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">High
points: Wanaka and the surrounding mountains, the Queenstown region (it's
starting to feel like home), the road trip north of Kaikoura to Blenheim. The
Almyra at Kina for it's luxurious standards and views, and the discovery of an
emerging craft beer industry...look out for Moa and Sprig & Fern beers. We
liked the quality feel of the Napier region. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Low
points: the weather! And especially the (second) failed attempt at the
Tongariro Crossing. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We'll
be back!</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9888425.post-72107955557546805572012-01-31T17:32:00.000+00:002012-03-04T09:55:30.518+00:00Australia - NSW and South Australia 2012<br />
<div class="Body1">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">Sydney</span></b><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">On
schedule arrival on Qantas, and train to Wynyard close to our hotel in the CBD,
the Radisson Blu. Early morning walk to the Harbour Bridge and breakfast in the
historic Rocks area, but an otherwise lazy day, catching up on lost sleep. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLExaRBiEBtX0AuPp1f3SdWgFFITrx8wHvCjTlep7pBafx4fWkdrDbSKdGJjqRc-SzFhOUwRZtu4Zz-sUPHJie1-qzZQqPEle6AkC2QPOIiF3BNeendDppDuiM-a_pmE16YY2m/s1600/P1040775.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLExaRBiEBtX0AuPp1f3SdWgFFITrx8wHvCjTlep7pBafx4fWkdrDbSKdGJjqRc-SzFhOUwRZtu4Zz-sUPHJie1-qzZQqPEle6AkC2QPOIiF3BNeendDppDuiM-a_pmE16YY2m/s400/P1040775.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Met
up with daughter Anna who took us to North Bondi to show us her new house. Nice
neighbourhood and only eight minutes walk from Bondi Beach. A beer on Bondi
Beach, then off to Watson's Bay for a cliff top view of the entrance to Sydney
Harbour, overlooking Manly, then another beer and an early dinner at the famed
Doyles Seafood Restaurant, with a table overlooking the small beach and bay.
Very pleasant indeed, with a couple of beers back in Bondi with Anna's husband
Paul. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRrJvE4QL7Sme7y2tI_Y3G04W3JDXKU2tG_xpHeBBr21UixqEbl3k6_SyAQmH9IrwLDcKxQSchN728x66RUVRpBQXGg9iKGjtSPOXJyllMPyaytc1mDc_Zz-HVSBu8PBcqJLIF/s1600/P1040784.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRrJvE4QL7Sme7y2tI_Y3G04W3JDXKU2tG_xpHeBBr21UixqEbl3k6_SyAQmH9IrwLDcKxQSchN728x66RUVRpBQXGg9iKGjtSPOXJyllMPyaytc1mDc_Zz-HVSBu8PBcqJLIF/s400/P1040784.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chillin' in Bondi</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG4oVmm96gPVp0-KWTNpdJp77A6wQzlAXkffk2EiU5XKjxR6JAgj5he3xzoOwj9wbR__rXHuebKo3xwLB-QbhQIwRiF29W6XDfL5xHdHBzRaG0TI3peJZLSnTHlX908gcVFbpM/s1600/P1040791.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG4oVmm96gPVp0-KWTNpdJp77A6wQzlAXkffk2EiU5XKjxR6JAgj5he3xzoOwj9wbR__rXHuebKo3xwLB-QbhQIwRiF29W6XDfL5xHdHBzRaG0TI3peJZLSnTHlX908gcVFbpM/s400/P1040791.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View to Sydney from above Watson's Bay</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjloN2c1elaGFlEA1pae_v6bAAAC_4B78XY0kfMJM5rABBnJ8N38rbRKXPaTb-Mv_8U1GnpGO98TjyX0kfS5u_Q1LoGJuPl3NYxSjMzGv7i9-ClvvJJlwXfYl3sEhbAMv28V0Ab/s1600/P1040793.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjloN2c1elaGFlEA1pae_v6bAAAC_4B78XY0kfMJM5rABBnJ8N38rbRKXPaTb-Mv_8U1GnpGO98TjyX0kfS5u_Q1LoGJuPl3NYxSjMzGv7i9-ClvvJJlwXfYl3sEhbAMv28V0Ab/s400/P1040793.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivbv84kgWXY4TuKr0fqMbElGUr_O66CBcdT-UNgUcwTsw5lV74JlnqFGiur6xUVcSYIV_paInhPA_z9TsnzWg7bIvlftJT88nmX_3jzZRiMQYlAKKmS7Ct4BatfQWT8AvGbaXS/s1600/P1040809.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivbv84kgWXY4TuKr0fqMbElGUr_O66CBcdT-UNgUcwTsw5lV74JlnqFGiur6xUVcSYIV_paInhPA_z9TsnzWg7bIvlftJT88nmX_3jzZRiMQYlAKKmS7Ct4BatfQWT8AvGbaXS/s400/P1040809.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eating the world's most expensive fish& chips! Doyles, Watson's Bay</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggQ4Tic3CEnG3WcUgfwekAKMYhhS9JJE-CCY6TFRXbsIcUh-2s_Fsy8hpF24wSwCB4C5LT8jjljk5k_R7vYws2w3qXWy9Wsmfx-RGxL2zSSxIxkXeqhFCDDayXEGp4GZOIdyV9/s1600/P1040799.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggQ4Tic3CEnG3WcUgfwekAKMYhhS9JJE-CCY6TFRXbsIcUh-2s_Fsy8hpF24wSwCB4C5LT8jjljk5k_R7vYws2w3qXWy9Wsmfx-RGxL2zSSxIxkXeqhFCDDayXEGp4GZOIdyV9/s400/P1040799.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Watson's Bay</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3jPTAGoLGOM8JxoXkF9y1o2aASjDeBO71eh4fLEaSmADXeb6lRnibFD1gWLhNYFqLd8r9fwApVDP7M6cazNYfKf0_LxsquOQZ7oU2PMWedxF4NqshxLY2__Z2k1R3SK6xmx9B/s1600/P1040812.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3jPTAGoLGOM8JxoXkF9y1o2aASjDeBO71eh4fLEaSmADXeb6lRnibFD1gWLhNYFqLd8r9fwApVDP7M6cazNYfKf0_LxsquOQZ7oU2PMWedxF4NqshxLY2__Z2k1R3SK6xmx9B/s400/P1040812.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifXX5jv2d9-ZZM_88vHBFKA8t9dUL0bEVjvaUgjZIFXTPPCBuJUAbqK61KOn65hFv0ZgxgJTKP1Ke401FVXCYEi2_shle_Ra37B1INtPBWteweIUBWEY07rrrJyaIsUjhXAj7y/s1600/P1040814.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifXX5jv2d9-ZZM_88vHBFKA8t9dUL0bEVjvaUgjZIFXTPPCBuJUAbqK61KOn65hFv0ZgxgJTKP1Ke401FVXCYEi2_shle_Ra37B1INtPBWteweIUBWEY07rrrJyaIsUjhXAj7y/s400/P1040814.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
Second
day in Sydney, cool weather but perfect for walking through Hyde Park to pay a
quick visit to the Anzac memorial. Walked back past St Mary's Cathedral, and
then had an interesting hour in the State Library of NSW where a free
exhibition on mapping of Antarctica was on display.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1spDF7cm9HNtnDfKtOY4ciNJKtSNaf2s7jvfqvK0vJ5Jvl-ZfLXEDg67EzNwJgRCG0n5O9S6lIzu_LoPZ9gUVPPmMHMiWTvOWVh4IQ8949o5wE7axRAgVsl7W1bCIBmI24yTJ/s1600/P1040823.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1spDF7cm9HNtnDfKtOY4ciNJKtSNaf2s7jvfqvK0vJ5Jvl-ZfLXEDg67EzNwJgRCG0n5O9S6lIzu_LoPZ9gUVPPmMHMiWTvOWVh4IQ8949o5wE7axRAgVsl7W1bCIBmI24yTJ/s400/P1040823.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3hEzHz2jZkP6gz0xd0QWjtZ6MC2SYdSoFQq0BstuHVPm3Ks8UURsjfeWGs4ZUq6JFkyN-XQRy2TAyK3_gewY188_A3jR_SW0zfLaCMy4z0NPhKmViMNfTd4g6MnzT90zXakoJ/s1600/P1040825.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3hEzHz2jZkP6gz0xd0QWjtZ6MC2SYdSoFQq0BstuHVPm3Ks8UURsjfeWGs4ZUq6JFkyN-XQRy2TAyK3_gewY188_A3jR_SW0zfLaCMy4z0NPhKmViMNfTd4g6MnzT90zXakoJ/s640/P1040825.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3K4rQpKPUifWrk0dA0nk-UEkqFlCvMVmwKzbl3x0y109vOsTdgYiJ5HtLJO4JYHaByQZrArRZSuxL7BQGbxFSpaGVKF0_fShfUukZfahWFfzz6BjFyJg0ASroD9WJiAD-4yGf/s1600/P1040829.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3K4rQpKPUifWrk0dA0nk-UEkqFlCvMVmwKzbl3x0y109vOsTdgYiJ5HtLJO4JYHaByQZrArRZSuxL7BQGbxFSpaGVKF0_fShfUukZfahWFfzz6BjFyJg0ASroD9WJiAD-4yGf/s400/P1040829.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhERZ7C4Zm-4WJH7QwClzB98Vw580lIyrfi6E8_GB9TRCYpZGRUj29o76eMEaHkV44GzuBdoJ7WrzprlQk4V812EftAwDkcMKWBLCxUg7SPG7z2I0gpi22tsFor6Nq7ygmYGabm/s1600/P1040830.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhERZ7C4Zm-4WJH7QwClzB98Vw580lIyrfi6E8_GB9TRCYpZGRUj29o76eMEaHkV44GzuBdoJ7WrzprlQk4V812EftAwDkcMKWBLCxUg7SPG7z2I0gpi22tsFor6Nq7ygmYGabm/s640/P1040830.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Joining
up with Anna and Paul, we then headed for a favourite watering hole of mine,
the Lord Nelson, a brewpub in The Rocks. Great atmosphere, beer and food. Then
a quick walk up to Observatory Park for another perspective on the Harbour
Bridge and the city, amused by the sheer number of wedding parties that had
decamped here to have their iconic wedding photos taken. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQcp82jfrwxiqd4fIaQ8u13oRHNwMZHEAN-DVPWUToJSjLDzWZGNyEAgSWZrHTgBm2qXyqfK0HwTiSlC1WByWdT5aoTrDHiYLmiDwHeAXz7buPX9emNArQ7lx5ZD0BySmokZRw/s1600/P1040838.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQcp82jfrwxiqd4fIaQ8u13oRHNwMZHEAN-DVPWUToJSjLDzWZGNyEAgSWZrHTgBm2qXyqfK0HwTiSlC1WByWdT5aoTrDHiYLmiDwHeAXz7buPX9emNArQ7lx5ZD0BySmokZRw/s400/P1040838.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from Observatory Hill</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIR7E0MlzaA-oDWsS96xZDKvN8WoSzPQd-H0dWVGOFeQv4cuEXCGggLDw9CQBFsobcVGzjPXrYdF-Miuk5Mb3qyCPXjUG2JIzSkRwnS9PxV5mOwVUJYbzykiqlLdtzdI6BzgWC/s1600/P1040839.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIR7E0MlzaA-oDWsS96xZDKvN8WoSzPQd-H0dWVGOFeQv4cuEXCGggLDw9CQBFsobcVGzjPXrYdF-Miuk5Mb3qyCPXjUG2JIzSkRwnS9PxV5mOwVUJYbzykiqlLdtzdI6BzgWC/s400/P1040839.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
Another
quick beer in The Rocks, an excellent pint of draught Little Creatures in The
Australian, then on to see the Opera in the Domain for a few minutes, Bizet's <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Pearlfishers</i>. Not my thing, so
didn't hang around too long!</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Final
day in Sydney. Ferry to Manly, a walk to both sides of the peninsula, and very
crowded with weekend visitors. A snack, then back to Sydney and a couple of
beers in the very old pub Hero of Waterloo in the Rocks accompanied by a jazz
quartet. Could have stayed all afternoon. Early dinner at Sailor Thai in The
Rocks, and early night again. Jet lag almost over!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgepmUGLWjjj8wQRKutp3jD_IntCZSr30jTVWEYvOoUGrRm4Ar7zruNve9fvbQWLbMLm_Xnq6__sEMcS9lr1_SV7hzTFgzrLaYK_IkA2gya_j2rY9ITIW_R8SmTzXYeu5IH7Rsx/s1600/P1040840.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgepmUGLWjjj8wQRKutp3jD_IntCZSr30jTVWEYvOoUGrRm4Ar7zruNve9fvbQWLbMLm_Xnq6__sEMcS9lr1_SV7hzTFgzrLaYK_IkA2gya_j2rY9ITIW_R8SmTzXYeu5IH7Rsx/s400/P1040840.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaHwbWOYGaweIS2LDAjcPijqLYvF4_RcJihayYjBO3SSY3yVJvJYB8fK96PSNnJ-0y9TVCj7abzWMQ_moc5lOK1q4L8_Wrlf2Dfvq7R_VF5uLxZT7xUpGCdHTDajb-_NLRae5S/s1600/P1040845.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaHwbWOYGaweIS2LDAjcPijqLYvF4_RcJihayYjBO3SSY3yVJvJYB8fK96PSNnJ-0y9TVCj7abzWMQ_moc5lOK1q4L8_Wrlf2Dfvq7R_VF5uLxZT7xUpGCdHTDajb-_NLRae5S/s640/P1040845.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anna & Paul, Manly Beach</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGt0jYyv2IgrAH7B5UzIoQSoY6LGfUwD5Rrm5RD56xOGzXT7-kLxHYWuPQxrEvZAR0h490SqQTy-_GEGuTK0ski66IX1Z6MlKPoK-MAQzSDgLWN83P2XVJs6-PL0ItTD_kQljh/s1600/P1040847.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGt0jYyv2IgrAH7B5UzIoQSoY6LGfUwD5Rrm5RD56xOGzXT7-kLxHYWuPQxrEvZAR0h490SqQTy-_GEGuTK0ski66IX1Z6MlKPoK-MAQzSDgLWN83P2XVJs6-PL0ItTD_kQljh/s400/P1040847.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The quiet beach at Manly</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTpEp5hMbsQX0TWPqOrfbtJ0laQZrTpgJeWz4rkdh_H7CaHIYO8fOTH92BdqEGwOj7LKmoLPkFMU_oS6gdcV-OFmzGxzoYcSJGZS3gapbigauEshpcWb9WBsiF6_O6cUnsk9Bz/s1600/P1040853.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTpEp5hMbsQX0TWPqOrfbtJ0laQZrTpgJeWz4rkdh_H7CaHIYO8fOTH92BdqEGwOj7LKmoLPkFMU_oS6gdcV-OFmzGxzoYcSJGZS3gapbigauEshpcWb9WBsiF6_O6cUnsk9Bz/s400/P1040853.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sydney views from the Manly ferry</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizIrz2E4Vwr6arvWFmAdRiDBNSRVXPuNbwZnYSrWMy2qwx5DOvIGBvrY2qJekqqISD2jeFqmWgcQW5xCIKf3CbgpV1-tOppfqJIxOS8oItLa3m7GhU-NbDmNQvWF79G_DmQEjS/s1600/P1040855.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizIrz2E4Vwr6arvWFmAdRiDBNSRVXPuNbwZnYSrWMy2qwx5DOvIGBvrY2qJekqqISD2jeFqmWgcQW5xCIKf3CbgpV1-tOppfqJIxOS8oItLa3m7GhU-NbDmNQvWF79G_DmQEjS/s400/P1040855.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUapcUpJQu3YjcmKW5myFKc6kTvUy6JEdZYF9YxDp-5vlfOVxteKAPLUqocmxROYh-oWuNZiSUrC6OjJ7AsRpwl1dw2W9yBnvY87o40Ysxs6sR7pyLFTSW4aiusHLdZ1VmBvwV/s1600/P1040856.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUapcUpJQu3YjcmKW5myFKc6kTvUy6JEdZYF9YxDp-5vlfOVxteKAPLUqocmxROYh-oWuNZiSUrC6OjJ7AsRpwl1dw2W9yBnvY87o40Ysxs6sR7pyLFTSW4aiusHLdZ1VmBvwV/s400/P1040856.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">New South Wales</span></b><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6CXgTiw8sSoQx7Gu67h5a0mcmgEqI1pnYqivkG77daiKR7E5DV909mffU5K9QbFhLDe1Df9aP4XQmjm58qFjeQCNStEsTUyS2axhcEyw8Ted9cCd6T6xAJyfZ7i-lbWem0S0t/s1600/nsw+map.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6CXgTiw8sSoQx7Gu67h5a0mcmgEqI1pnYqivkG77daiKR7E5DV909mffU5K9QbFhLDe1Df9aP4XQmjm58qFjeQCNStEsTUyS2axhcEyw8Ted9cCd6T6xAJyfZ7i-lbWem0S0t/s640/nsw+map.jpg" width="582" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our route in New South Wales</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Today
starts a quick tour of northern New South Wales, heading west up into the Blue
Mountains, a tortuous ride out through Sydney's western suburbs and the slow,
unattractive grind up the Western Highway to Katoomba. They're in the process
of upgrading this road, but I can't ever see it being a pleasant road to
travel. In the process we gained almost a thousand metres before our first turn
off to view Wentworth Falls, a river that runs over the edge of one of the many
escarpments in this region amidst densely forested tableland. In quick
succession we took the views from Echo Point (towards the famous 'Three
Sisters'), then Cahill's Lookout and various others before emerging back on the
highway which took us on to Blackheath and our stopover for the night in Mount
Victoria, a somewhat tired collection of towns in the Australian equivalent of
hill-billy country. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnutka20gbHg0VJL749MaVO6GyavJHcte6VPGtx8UoTPgpU_4hitgQlrj1vK139X0s8qSSG0Li7xBDnF1dxCRxHnHgPm8hD53lGSKnGi7aQzUfk_DLEdyt-3z571HK_3HyIWdh/s1600/P1040859.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnutka20gbHg0VJL749MaVO6GyavJHcte6VPGtx8UoTPgpU_4hitgQlrj1vK139X0s8qSSG0Li7xBDnF1dxCRxHnHgPm8hD53lGSKnGi7aQzUfk_DLEdyt-3z571HK_3HyIWdh/s400/P1040859.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blue Mountains</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA2671n2h7PpStgQ5xhR-NCxDWCujUlC-KPEO15-5gUxmREmlEXnCdDrH89TqL8WqpKS6DjKzKZR4LXmDGfYeP87oywBZCiUTbHa2Vmv0ypIC9ocbmMV4aOn2ouXYSVtClGutY/s1600/P1040868.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA2671n2h7PpStgQ5xhR-NCxDWCujUlC-KPEO15-5gUxmREmlEXnCdDrH89TqL8WqpKS6DjKzKZR4LXmDGfYeP87oywBZCiUTbHa2Vmv0ypIC9ocbmMV4aOn2ouXYSVtClGutY/s400/P1040868.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 'Three Sisters'</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Just
north from Blackheath is Govett's Leap, a good viewpoint looking over Bridal
Veil falls, with extensive views over the Blue Mountains to the north. From
Mount Victoria we visited Mount York, the location where Australia's pioneers
finally succeeded in breaking through the Blue Mountains and enabling further
advances westwards into the interior back in 1813. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwxzHdyyKgGivpM_RX0NjcZ4FrYP6awxmcbuv1uSHdOrIsAmCVYjA4GI0v1zEYmsMsHI3KvnqK4fc6cfKOvENk_IzL3I8xT9oMKtcyIy34ra4bf-QwESJ1CAOgKCEDRlXAPI8g/s1600/P1040883.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwxzHdyyKgGivpM_RX0NjcZ4FrYP6awxmcbuv1uSHdOrIsAmCVYjA4GI0v1zEYmsMsHI3KvnqK4fc6cfKOvENk_IzL3I8xT9oMKtcyIy34ra4bf-QwESJ1CAOgKCEDRlXAPI8g/s400/P1040883.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGPshk9YHJ91-xkByl2oc3WZ7WiczzV7qnMA5bSXmOwAv6om57SH5D-6CkBROAcepLaNSAWWz-Cez264FhJRpAP-vZkvOpnYzTElHrZZjjnnZDGugJvjvXK82AeGVFnmqG93EP/s1600/P1040875.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGPshk9YHJ91-xkByl2oc3WZ7WiczzV7qnMA5bSXmOwAv6om57SH5D-6CkBROAcepLaNSAWWz-Cez264FhJRpAP-vZkvOpnYzTElHrZZjjnnZDGugJvjvXK82AeGVFnmqG93EP/s400/P1040875.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bridal Veil Falls, Blue Mountains</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZsNVQjsoL7e5UweaSXOynjTETAm73LAed3dUEG1qUp4hlbTC5iztyEKT07W2tBy16MsnHg3L8flTqRtx9XLI4Liz74lCtqEX6ip6xs8_erHwGQgUftsrGm5htsjlxTgJS7221/s1600/P1040884.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZsNVQjsoL7e5UweaSXOynjTETAm73LAed3dUEG1qUp4hlbTC5iztyEKT07W2tBy16MsnHg3L8flTqRtx9XLI4Liz74lCtqEX6ip6xs8_erHwGQgUftsrGm5htsjlxTgJS7221/s400/P1040884.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsT1YxKwtTifEt7AGhNy3Tr4uKJmFW7tvzN3tkZPN7-77-wtM4lAP7lfrsbL1gJLwgk0I9XzhbjvaeAt0-8VtIY0U9TD_aAMjfGzeaz8qy6pYztWwJ_FDXqxBO8Im4LWRCdG80/s1600/P1010860.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsT1YxKwtTifEt7AGhNy3Tr4uKJmFW7tvzN3tkZPN7-77-wtM4lAP7lfrsbL1gJLwgk0I9XzhbjvaeAt0-8VtIY0U9TD_aAMjfGzeaz8qy6pYztWwJ_FDXqxBO8Im4LWRCdG80/s400/P1010860.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Our
accommodation for the night, the very tired Victoria & Albert Guesthouse,
was underwhelming, as was the adjacent Imperial Hotel where a quick beer was
accompanied by heavy rock in the bar, and rockers outside strumming away on an
electric guitar. It won't be a minute too soon to move on from here! Not
recommended. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Very
few restaurants open, so had a quick Thai meal back in Blackheath.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Broken
night with partner suffering from severe abdominal pains, necessitating an
early visit to Katoomba Hospital the following morning. Suspected gallstones,
but on our way after obs and medication by early afternoon. Decided to press
ahead with our plans, but this meant cancelling the long awaited lunch at Esca
in Bimbadgen and a hard drive to make up time, travelling along the scenic Bell
Line of Road along the northern perimeter of the Blue Mountains (visit to Mount
Tomah Botanical Gardens abandoned too), before heading north on to Putty Road,
a sweeping highway passing through spectacular country through Colo and into
Wollemi and Yengo National Parks before a long descent through Howes Valley and
down alongside Darkey Creek into the Hunter Valley wine region. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Reached
our little spot for the night, Hilltop Guesthouse near Rothbury by late
afternoon, just as the sky darkened with rain. A challenging day.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
glass of wine beckons...and was enjoyed at Mojo's on Wilderness, just east of
Rothbury in the heart of wine growing country. A good Shiraz (Thomas's <i>Two of a
Kind</i>) and a local Chardonnay were enjoyed with some nicely cooked food. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">It
rained all night, lowering the temperature to the low twenties and making it
very comfortable for sleeping. Although the Hilltop is nicely situated above
the Lower Hunter Valley vineyards it isn't air conditioned and if 'normal'
temperatures for this time of the year had prevailed, around 35-40 degrees,
then we would have been baking hot!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
nice breakfast including some poached locally grown figs, before hitting the
road again, this time heading north along the New England Highway through
Singleton and Musselbrook, passing through huge open cast coal mining country,
before reaching the huge racehorse studs which stretched as far as the eye
could see between Scone and Murrurundi, some obviously owned by Arabs (Emirates
Park). Continuing northwards, through attractive farmland, grassland and some
forested areas (and spotting the odd kangaroo too) we bypassed Tamworth with
its huge livestock markets and concert venue, this being the 'Country Music
Capital of Australia'. It did feel very much like America here, with
wall-to-wall fast food joints, diners and motels. Needless to say, we moved on,
and now into the fourth hour of driving on increasingly wet roads and some very
long hills to climb. Had a giggle when we stopped for a quick pee, watching the
face of my better half when she emerged from her first ever long-drop toilet!</span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Finally
reached Armidale, our stopover point for the night, a well manicured university
town with shops galore and a much needed launderette. Our accommodation is
Lindsay House, a large Victorian house overlooking the Central Park, and we had
a huge comfortable room for the night. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
rain abated overnight, although it was still overcast when we set off eastwards
along the Waterfall Way towards the east coast. We were quickly into rolling
country, mainly beef cattle seen and the views became more expansive as we
slowly gained height, with Cathedral Rock National Park to our left and New
England National Park to the south east.
Our first stop was to visit Wollomombi Gorge, containing a series of
very high waterfalls, one of which is the second highest in Australia. The
gorge itself was shrouded in mist, which made for a very atmospheric ambience,
but tricky for photography. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJrjhGROu1n2bG5d1oh5-gFBlPSbv9YXcxeDohMDhlhnC-OgAgg6LFrQZqs63dUEIuuHI5nYy3nCpkJCh7NRb84YEn-xu9OSreyQzA6S3chr1IHdYR9GcbdnYOTQCXNmlb2mXn/s1600/P1010873.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJrjhGROu1n2bG5d1oh5-gFBlPSbv9YXcxeDohMDhlhnC-OgAgg6LFrQZqs63dUEIuuHI5nYy3nCpkJCh7NRb84YEn-xu9OSreyQzA6S3chr1IHdYR9GcbdnYOTQCXNmlb2mXn/s640/P1010873.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Falls at Wollomombi Gorge</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPjlwV-xdSuMAjEuvgqnreN3lY-AXsGUbbJJe_d0lkuTld7VffZPbLv8BgUv6l9imqKxfXG55oCE-6nJSnGa9jrez7mMWgrxVaP0QAnhcee8bpsV6iSTCU05NMSSGbY9JGYpdE/s1600/P1040892.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPjlwV-xdSuMAjEuvgqnreN3lY-AXsGUbbJJe_d0lkuTld7VffZPbLv8BgUv6l9imqKxfXG55oCE-6nJSnGa9jrez7mMWgrxVaP0QAnhcee8bpsV6iSTCU05NMSSGbY9JGYpdE/s400/P1040892.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US">Continuing along the path to another viewpoint we
were fortunate enough to spot a rock wallaby feeding on the edge of the scarp,
in the company of a pair of quail thrush. Spotted some wonderfully coloured
Eastern Rosella, brightly coloured parrots. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQTasGfKByNKLzUpstFNqplVS8_Ek3otk-Vx_DS6LW5DDrmhHAC5PWmWvMnNqUyK1LJ527kNdIR95SEwN54LJCz_DCgy4ymAUIVfDX25XktdkcCcLwgWhVqGYnOQRLM5XNzgRg/s1600/P1040895.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQTasGfKByNKLzUpstFNqplVS8_Ek3otk-Vx_DS6LW5DDrmhHAC5PWmWvMnNqUyK1LJ527kNdIR95SEwN54LJCz_DCgy4ymAUIVfDX25XktdkcCcLwgWhVqGYnOQRLM5XNzgRg/s400/P1040895.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rock wallaby</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Onwards,
we alighted again at Ebor Falls, in spate given recent rainfall, and thankfully
now clear of mist. A two-tiered fall, and great views from the 600m escarpment
trail. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLn8XWqFAI_i15LQiveQVoJpz95SdXm5Dy0WD8cnyd_SkyexgvbtzfR1jVHPNEQXrXwJ_ALAyYJkmPFV5hHfQqBkXSwWfi-jDtK7oFhPrxxPXqs8Tp560MH3PHEiOLQYJQyaK5/s1600/P1040913.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLn8XWqFAI_i15LQiveQVoJpz95SdXm5Dy0WD8cnyd_SkyexgvbtzfR1jVHPNEQXrXwJ_ALAyYJkmPFV5hHfQqBkXSwWfi-jDtK7oFhPrxxPXqs8Tp560MH3PHEiOLQYJQyaK5/s400/P1040913.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ebor Falls</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinwJ3Yrhcm7fwtIqAB_3cWiDLwC3YiMW88lfF-HQeejEKTBg9lC3yLl7GZ1xyslT79qmutc9ihD8yih12zhu_7UO24-Th1ddO-3vrOQP0wLBKaU-nlAw0jAU9RFOueGsYpScNt/s1600/P1040918.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinwJ3Yrhcm7fwtIqAB_3cWiDLwC3YiMW88lfF-HQeejEKTBg9lC3yLl7GZ1xyslT79qmutc9ihD8yih12zhu_7UO24-Th1ddO-3vrOQP0wLBKaU-nlAw0jAU9RFOueGsYpScNt/s400/P1040918.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
had planned to travel south some 15km to reach the Point Lookout, which affords
extensive views south over the New England National Park, but recent rain has
made the unmade road surface very slippery for our little compact, so we beat
the retreat. Next time....</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
crossed the rolling hills of the plateau above Dorrigo, somewhat like the
Scottish Borders, enjoying views into the far distance and increasing amounts
of sunshine. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
rest stop at an organic food cafe and emporium in the small town of Dorrigo,
famed for its artists and artisans, before the long, steep road descent between
Dorrigo National Park ('Gondwana rainforest') to our north and Bellinger River
National Park to our right. Just at Sherrard Falls, workmen were clearing a
recent landslide from the road, and we were soon upon the Bellinger River, very
high but well below the flood levels seen a fortnight before, when our
destination town of Bellingen had been cut off by floodwaters. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Ipuzpv6fk6swNvc81eGeJOXGDyUttc4_whSv2Zp5xELY6UozxuhpVf6EQZ-ixA4vFuUTVMjeTmSfsb7Q8iOXCTDMjaIH4MyJuuZSgeUVOg57NeOQBPzD1xASaoiAQ6ZD1g8Q/s1600/IMG_0009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Ipuzpv6fk6swNvc81eGeJOXGDyUttc4_whSv2Zp5xELY6UozxuhpVf6EQZ-ixA4vFuUTVMjeTmSfsb7Q8iOXCTDMjaIH4MyJuuZSgeUVOg57NeOQBPzD1xASaoiAQ6ZD1g8Q/s400/IMG_0009.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bellinger River, NSW in flood</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQJRh0jpCodqGLfOZS5eMlp_hUdCIdgCukvjV4DGpIuZy4V6fdFBEIvAELf1U5y6budCCmMEIHL3rGr4xWWkJNhrrXgpIYX-YXjgwHkQ9DYudfWc8K6pvHpRsB3O57Z1DhhZCd/s1600/P1040929.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQJRh0jpCodqGLfOZS5eMlp_hUdCIdgCukvjV4DGpIuZy4V6fdFBEIvAELf1U5y6budCCmMEIHL3rGr4xWWkJNhrrXgpIYX-YXjgwHkQ9DYudfWc8K6pvHpRsB3O57Z1DhhZCd/s640/P1040929.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4QfTOK-9RPshqNGcGiD2kvCWeCGbRpLKCCif_PVXSy-6J6M1-HHW1UhyrH4_8lNuSXXGOla_x1UMrWAgwyQWACGVVou3Mb9Je6xy9pSpFCeRFQk24hYOY2LskfBTAhxFC3bLi/s1600/P1040934.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4QfTOK-9RPshqNGcGiD2kvCWeCGbRpLKCCif_PVXSy-6J6M1-HHW1UhyrH4_8lNuSXXGOla_x1UMrWAgwyQWACGVVou3Mb9Je6xy9pSpFCeRFQk24hYOY2LskfBTAhxFC3bLi/s400/P1040934.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC3jTLzHtog8Y4PixW6mds3IP6IA7hqwnJyTJLuRfnExScs3LeRzVAmaMwQf4JdcZd-AJjdeaw6BRo7yEKUAIRqqr2p2p_zA5ZYCLO0M64sVehj24a54AvPwBKVzEXXnyPJ3lm/s1600/P1040944.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC3jTLzHtog8Y4PixW6mds3IP6IA7hqwnJyTJLuRfnExScs3LeRzVAmaMwQf4JdcZd-AJjdeaw6BRo7yEKUAIRqqr2p2p_zA5ZYCLO0M64sVehj24a54AvPwBKVzEXXnyPJ3lm/s400/P1040944.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Access to our overnight accommodation at Casabelle, Bellingen. Only just!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Bellingen
has a population of some 2500, but the number of people swells considerably at
various times during the year, as the town hosts big monthly markets and annual
art, lieterary and music festivals, unfortunately none of them happening during
our time here! A cute little town, very chilled indeed. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
sped off to have a quick look at Coffs Harbour, a few miles north on the
Pacific Highway, and watched some surfers, before returning to Bellingen for
gourmet tea at our beautifully located B&B for the night, <a href="http://www.casabelle.com/">Casabelle</a>, on the
north side of the Lavender Bridge which had been swamped by floodwater just a
few days before. Highly recommended - a beautifully appointed location and
idyllic views, with very pleasant hospitality. Guinea fowl and a blue tongued
lizard spotted in the gardens, preceded by a red fox crossing our path as we
had approached Casabelle earlier. Apparently the said fox enjoyed eating the
guinea fowl's partner a few weeks ago ...</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyXCrAFnLSPgmKya6m3Dr3tIzditK6SlGxej_Fq2bW0LP8lHSoyv61cNwJhRv3mNvdJp2x09Zvy2WQ0XCUXrdSwUqSvp98-owclOaJQgDATSG_1etJXSoyIkn_gy-gv0iXQTrs/s1600/P1040951.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyXCrAFnLSPgmKya6m3Dr3tIzditK6SlGxej_Fq2bW0LP8lHSoyv61cNwJhRv3mNvdJp2x09Zvy2WQ0XCUXrdSwUqSvp98-owclOaJQgDATSG_1etJXSoyIkn_gy-gv0iXQTrs/s400/P1040951.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The delightful <i>Casabelle</i> B&B in Bellingen</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkDxy6lDXUHdkVnXTYcdfCp7dC_sfaCyE-3mhg53gypHYvfIKvD05SaUgVtsUCoUqJHmxgMMz_t9lrAZpSg1lHcnCaeMR8l2B5UuRkIqOF4sVyUg20nTYf4pteTUL5ld1y2UXs/s1600/P1040956.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkDxy6lDXUHdkVnXTYcdfCp7dC_sfaCyE-3mhg53gypHYvfIKvD05SaUgVtsUCoUqJHmxgMMz_t9lrAZpSg1lHcnCaeMR8l2B5UuRkIqOF4sVyUg20nTYf4pteTUL5ld1y2UXs/s400/P1040956.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgorwY6ekOEJFUw2AqCImJlqfQlvvfr4-IoXNmBHKhSJ7PW1dgHeeaGeJcjifzgmOHYKkfxtQyoiQsVl3HqDSTEF5FaP6ztuPALGAA-jjccOCOG9udpJ4I011I_vy3yyV2l7KHt/s1600/P1040963.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgorwY6ekOEJFUw2AqCImJlqfQlvvfr4-IoXNmBHKhSJ7PW1dgHeeaGeJcjifzgmOHYKkfxtQyoiQsVl3HqDSTEF5FaP6ztuPALGAA-jjccOCOG9udpJ4I011I_vy3yyV2l7KHt/s400/P1040963.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Our
next day, after a splendid breakfast overlooking delightful gardens, was really
a long trip southwards on the Pacific Highway back in the direction of Sydney.
Not much to see really, as much of the way passes through forested country, and
even a diversion off the main drag on to Lakes Way did not yield any
particularly remarkable vistas. What was
noticeable was the amount of
damage done to the roads everywhere with the excessive rainfall of the past
weeks, still causing floods and communities to be cut off just north of us. Our
overnight stop in Tea Gardens, just south of Myall Lakes National Park, was a
pleasant place to be, very slow in pace and home to fisherman and boat
enthusiasts. Also a surf beach and a gentle beach overlooking Nelson's Bay in
close proximity. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Today's
itinerary takes us to Sydney airport for a short overnight stay before heading
for Adelaide in South Australia. Pacific Highway most of the way, although we
took a lakes/coastal drive around Bugewoi and Tuggerah Lakes in the hope we
would get some better views. We didn't. Once again, bush and trees obscured
most of the vistas although there were some impressive views back over Gosford
and it's bay, Brisbane Water, as we wended our way up the hill back towards the
highway. Roads were very busy into Sydney, the highway scything it's way
through Ju-ring-gai National Park, passing through some immense cuttings
through the rock ridge we were traversing. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Found
the hotel OK, and had Vietnamese food for lunch in the bohemian Surry Hills
area just south of the CBD. Dropped of the hire car at the airport and spent
the rest of the day chilling at the Ibis near the airport. To date, 1750km
driven. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Next
stop, South Australia!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">South Australia </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></b><br />
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></b><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOYQAmYg2C_lRuwRoxbzgTiTsvCKTFh8Tjks9D_K_KN4_QccH03crnjcidFBfscy0kMqwrZVdOb3lzHXeBvZzyvI_uTMDD7-7X2NdKDCLqYxegUO-K0O4OBarPfoPlgtyFApSVng/s1600/SA+map.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOYQAmYg2C_lRuwRoxbzgTiTsvCKTFh8Tjks9D_K_KN4_QccH03crnjcidFBfscy0kMqwrZVdOb3lzHXeBvZzyvI_uTMDD7-7X2NdKDCLqYxegUO-K0O4OBarPfoPlgtyFApSVng/s640/SA+map.jpg" width="456" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our route in South Australia</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">It's
just under two hours by air (1162 km) from Sydney to Adelaide, and the track
took us back over our route across the Blue Mountains taken earlier in the
week. From air they look like rolling clumps of dark green grass, interspersed
by valleys and big escarpments. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9AC7TWXePC-df5mDTx6rChH2Aiwb64Jcsr0zgbM3Kemp8gwiHZSgcKCia7Ih2_dalkvDk40Ec0F-zomyb4DF-Ytp_LCWKO24s0OO7UeK7XIniHQNugyDX8Xannoelej2Q6YoeVQ/s1600/P1010898.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9AC7TWXePC-df5mDTx6rChH2Aiwb64Jcsr0zgbM3Kemp8gwiHZSgcKCia7Ih2_dalkvDk40Ec0F-zomyb4DF-Ytp_LCWKO24s0OO7UeK7XIniHQNugyDX8Xannoelej2Q6YoeVQ/s400/P1010898.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sydney from our flight west to Adelaide</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0Lq8HOh9BVvvalaPt_Jtxr9hKc160j-kve6R8MFTdnyFq1n0T38BOFhnf75fvemXAFCGNFx_WFWJ_uzUJiwiVRwzIJW7ThBG25hvWwGbSxdG5Ojp0j_xZ2Lgl6lN2GS0HoVUqig/s1600/P1010902.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0Lq8HOh9BVvvalaPt_Jtxr9hKc160j-kve6R8MFTdnyFq1n0T38BOFhnf75fvemXAFCGNFx_WFWJ_uzUJiwiVRwzIJW7ThBG25hvWwGbSxdG5Ojp0j_xZ2Lgl6lN2GS0HoVUqig/s400/P1010902.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blue Mountains from the air</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US">Further west we were quickly over rolling
farmland into the flat plains of wheat country before cloud obscured the view.
I've never thought of Adelaide as an exciting city, but once landed we were
quickly into the northern suburbs, and, you've guessed it, it rained on us
again, this time very heavily in patches. But further north, as we crossed the
wheat country, the weather faired up and we were treated to big vistas and big
skies. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEiF_yLgS1aEJ3XAJADYhkX_hwvZd8CLg5YmlKMujKarn4SPBhuZlSJftcAM1sEjLgUee2oBXI2RQu_v7f6QyAM7uGzWPkPThNab0sY3IBDEaLJZyJo8jlnH0z_QfmHr0GoARpUQ/s1600/P1040989.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEiF_yLgS1aEJ3XAJADYhkX_hwvZd8CLg5YmlKMujKarn4SPBhuZlSJftcAM1sEjLgUee2oBXI2RQu_v7f6QyAM7uGzWPkPThNab0sY3IBDEaLJZyJo8jlnH0z_QfmHr0GoARpUQ/s400/P1040989.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Empty spaces north of Adelaide</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Auburn,
a small town at the southern end of the Clare Valley wine region, is our
destination for the night and we quickly found our eco-driven B&B, the
delightful <a href="http://www.onetreebandb.com.au/">One Tree</a>. Organic food and wine, chocolate covered strawberries and
a very good cheese plate awaited us, as well as a bottle of chilled local Riesling.
Bloody marvellous. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivHlCuV7rWuX7H6cjQ_wrMGQiU8UfISYFBq_HD0rxK5rtdNRUB-Ml3ZVBzw7DbPjEH1tjhA8YC6Pew4dZ2V8YrhFjVHyRNdXQRwMqd7dFEDNcIFn0MP0iDsHT3AI4ZMKt3xBASPg/s1600/P1040984.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivHlCuV7rWuX7H6cjQ_wrMGQiU8UfISYFBq_HD0rxK5rtdNRUB-Ml3ZVBzw7DbPjEH1tjhA8YC6Pew4dZ2V8YrhFjVHyRNdXQRwMqd7dFEDNcIFn0MP0iDsHT3AI4ZMKt3xBASPg/s400/P1040984.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The understated <i>One Tree</i> luxury guesthouse in Auburn</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
had ordered a BBQ pack for the evening, and the strong wind made for some
interesting cooking on our private deck! We were also entertained by a noisy
flock of galahs roosting in a nearby gum tree. A highly recommended spot to stay.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Day
two in South Australia. On the road early, leaving the 'sleepy hollow' of
Auburn and heading north along the Riesling Way to the small town of Clare,
surrounded by vineyards and rolling sheep country. And then into the vastness
of SA's wheat growing country, huge farms amidst rolling hills under slightly
cloudy skies. Nothing on the roads at all, except for the odd 'road train',
long trucks hauling cattle or sheep. Further north, the land gets more barren
and cacti, desert bush plants and giant yucca appear. Towns are nothing more
than a few houses, maybe a general store, then back into the void again. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Our
objective, Wilpena Pound in the Flinders Ranges National Park, is about 300km
from Auburn, and with empty roads it's only taken just over three hours easy
driving. As we entered the Flinders, lookouts start to appear, giving us views
over the eastern flanks of this remote range of quartzite and sandstone
mountains, and plentiful signs of local wildlife...kangaroos and emus spotted
as we turned into Wilpena Pound, our hotel for the night, nestling on the
periphery of a huge natural amphiheatre. Kangaroos are all around us now, many
nonchalantly grazing outside the reception of the hotel and around the cottages
housing our room for the night. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2WTd4hQBadHfjyR6ZgdmKtZDJNclJ9Ggb3e2gO4i_Qb5UlBkSORC_ErBnvJtu8vHZPzXfCLNuWdn-dTCWbC1LBh2SPAcLBv_f4zx7GLG1vPbV37ZweMeCUtpCT8rWlvxkY52BCw/s1600/P1050003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2WTd4hQBadHfjyR6ZgdmKtZDJNclJ9Ggb3e2gO4i_Qb5UlBkSORC_ErBnvJtu8vHZPzXfCLNuWdn-dTCWbC1LBh2SPAcLBv_f4zx7GLG1vPbV37ZweMeCUtpCT8rWlvxkY52BCw/s400/P1050003.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Into the Flinders Ranges</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5ozM-g6j8WZK_ebuT04EFuwbR0o2bXJZKvVRF2R1tSN-j67nox_aoWrrH3Jz0ksY-s_xonSjijT9sXVzpZtq1j5yym-H3ZBjz8R8yz7BZ8YUjcvqbOnEkzz4voJ8bD9CVz7VMyA/s1600/P1050005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5ozM-g6j8WZK_ebuT04EFuwbR0o2bXJZKvVRF2R1tSN-j67nox_aoWrrH3Jz0ksY-s_xonSjijT9sXVzpZtq1j5yym-H3ZBjz8R8yz7BZ8YUjcvqbOnEkzz4voJ8bD9CVz7VMyA/s400/P1050005.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjopjNHjtSAcI0sYj4iogQnvoNnjXXYwJRcvEdSH7D1MeyfnldRTNVCnB2FbVaEhhbxAdSzeCseEak13MOR7LymBHQgQOpKsDB1dxEueGwaxN9KLlpuuChe9NOOMggsfzncP2wBFQ/s1600/P1010909.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjopjNHjtSAcI0sYj4iogQnvoNnjXXYwJRcvEdSH7D1MeyfnldRTNVCnB2FbVaEhhbxAdSzeCseEak13MOR7LymBHQgQOpKsDB1dxEueGwaxN9KLlpuuChe9NOOMggsfzncP2wBFQ/s400/P1010909.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">I
managed to get a decent walk in shortly after arrival, climbing Mount Ohlssen
Bagge, just over 900m, and this afforded some great views of Wilpena Pound and
the ranges beyond, with views northwest to the huge salt pan of Lake Torrens.
The walk itself was relatively straightforward, traversing up through sandstone
bluffs and calling for a little scrambling along the way. Many different types
of lizards spotted at the top. Up and down in a fraction over two hours against
a guide book time of four hours, but it's unseasonably cool here, so much
easier to move fast if it's not 40 degrees!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtl9kIaiq5W-MG_xxFIq3ea6N45WX_KhKClrXDsOKZAgIrcNIpHJDXD8_gZ7s1ri3VuVknwPg-yQbDbWcJbhcbEsclmlDm5PNH93FIU4hsSMABKSqABIx4fbscxOl9R27PMBKdDg/s1600/P1050023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtl9kIaiq5W-MG_xxFIq3ea6N45WX_KhKClrXDsOKZAgIrcNIpHJDXD8_gZ7s1ri3VuVknwPg-yQbDbWcJbhcbEsclmlDm5PNH93FIU4hsSMABKSqABIx4fbscxOl9R27PMBKdDg/s400/P1050023.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Summit of Mount Ohlssen Bagge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVOl4rIJwHCTis3vcaixz5s-Ygvut4FA1ByGfdiu6OQpc_qb4MnGNSbZPhy0Hu-vHjoS9WyA2fbNnH7-abXeWO0F6sV2dQiKlfhPOxZ5UUv_QwLZt9pDJabKD4DWYXMDulS_0LHg/s1600/P1050025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVOl4rIJwHCTis3vcaixz5s-Ygvut4FA1ByGfdiu6OQpc_qb4MnGNSbZPhy0Hu-vHjoS9WyA2fbNnH7-abXeWO0F6sV2dQiKlfhPOxZ5UUv_QwLZt9pDJabKD4DWYXMDulS_0LHg/s400/P1050025.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEillpsAxfOoE_Sq_R0eF_S4QaqiPiV89UN7kPZvH4oBuQFAUSqOJlw9M7lngrtPBufosgs7YVg-gPClNBFOS3vTSZKVyjJ8GuOURVE6372sTnSCvJ4SnFT4Kueu7puMdeJlIumSmg/s1600/P1050031.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEillpsAxfOoE_Sq_R0eF_S4QaqiPiV89UN7kPZvH4oBuQFAUSqOJlw9M7lngrtPBufosgs7YVg-gPClNBFOS3vTSZKVyjJ8GuOURVE6372sTnSCvJ4SnFT4Kueu7puMdeJlIumSmg/s400/P1050031.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirVqeEqPbF5ljnGjCPOYSDWxK0HbHrEkRHX40twuKWPc2PUp1hotiQFri7_eA5Hd-_hU9HeEar6SQadRVBzVo_WEu17a9IuwMvxjfGwYo2F9NHledg8QUa7Ns1DAKyS4HxCzl0IA/s1600/P1050049.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirVqeEqPbF5ljnGjCPOYSDWxK0HbHrEkRHX40twuKWPc2PUp1hotiQFri7_eA5Hd-_hU9HeEar6SQadRVBzVo_WEu17a9IuwMvxjfGwYo2F9NHledg8QUa7Ns1DAKyS4HxCzl0IA/s400/P1050049.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Well marked paths up the sandstone escarpments</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNn7x2JElMHiPybtzZW1QOHP8iQnXIjZgYBPeH1iJHT3sCQ3cr9iHbHU07r5JCrZhexYzPCVlMq4Bkp2tAhG5ooz9PNWRdRL2WcVfXjb3Z5JGGPkMvZlBCR-KMgDHyBUNisCBtkg/s1600/P1050052.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNn7x2JElMHiPybtzZW1QOHP8iQnXIjZgYBPeH1iJHT3sCQ3cr9iHbHU07r5JCrZhexYzPCVlMq4Bkp2tAhG5ooz9PNWRdRL2WcVfXjb3Z5JGGPkMvZlBCR-KMgDHyBUNisCBtkg/s640/P1050052.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Descent
via something the locals call the Drought Busters Hike, passing through an area
of huge water red gum trees. Hardly
anyone seen on the trail...it's low season here, so we've pretty much got the
place to ourselves. Just the way I like it!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
very quiet night, as there's hardly anybody staying here during the low season,
but an early start is called for as we have booked an early morning flight over
the vast bowl known as Wilpena Pound, an area enclosed by quartzite and
sandstone ridges, still being forced up by tectonic forces. Our flight left
later than planned due to cloud and my hopes of seeing this large geological
feature in the early morning light were scuppered somewhat. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Four
of us took off in a six seater Cessna, using a gravel air strip, and we gained
good views of Wilpena Pound and the surrounding mountain ranges, with views of
the huge salt flat known as Lake Torrens to our north west. A half hour in the
small plane was enough for my better
half, but we had a remarkably smooth flight with little turbulence. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkwg5AvAPqShB6QM1oHtzkwzNS3fbETCMO23HCnPf2bQLYt14G27C-ct0ZAzdGjPhhLDcgIUK5toqJWtYLGVL8AxLFh8SuBPOrCEupLJIayuVT4QJ9zXVCUBlPy_IOndFoJY0GyA/s1600/P1050075.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkwg5AvAPqShB6QM1oHtzkwzNS3fbETCMO23HCnPf2bQLYt14G27C-ct0ZAzdGjPhhLDcgIUK5toqJWtYLGVL8AxLFh8SuBPOrCEupLJIayuVT4QJ9zXVCUBlPy_IOndFoJY0GyA/s400/P1050075.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wilpena Pound from the air</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc_hJNLo6SUP6_yx38C7XBttzVvYfw2CMwr2imsBm-6G5LAnKppWWSKk-jlUcpd1BdcCGi2VYeltlYyB1EUaPybY70p8mQCd-hMVN6eM3X9o1TOAbOJl1HRDbRZXBfgu3p8YT1nA/s1600/P1050082.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc_hJNLo6SUP6_yx38C7XBttzVvYfw2CMwr2imsBm-6G5LAnKppWWSKk-jlUcpd1BdcCGi2VYeltlYyB1EUaPybY70p8mQCd-hMVN6eM3X9o1TOAbOJl1HRDbRZXBfgu3p8YT1nA/s640/P1050082.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoqbJiMItNXIppUrWEfijuJbWYnR2sCI-MXxZyKWONpRsvV7IG-1p-3ZGn4Byww9zvvkWDfVTTOFihEpIPWZjQDRULFZ4gOIHV4_hPOjg_mvo4P5WbCjcxYWG3df_xpGu-C4mKzQ/s1600/P1050104.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoqbJiMItNXIppUrWEfijuJbWYnR2sCI-MXxZyKWONpRsvV7IG-1p-3ZGn4Byww9zvvkWDfVTTOFihEpIPWZjQDRULFZ4gOIHV4_hPOjg_mvo4P5WbCjcxYWG3df_xpGu-C4mKzQ/s400/P1050104.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Over the Flinders Ranges, looking towards Lake Torrens</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_htfwzlEd51emAzmkcuPgyc1CYCelA0d7rIYuAmGbihXbITYBSB_nrfVEO9fAmtsHll69fmXa_LCcOgkbrjCdJKIOQPbsV-k4akfzp7ZzOIPrkVsrieLiF9uz_qiDuHx4nQC0rA/s1600/P1050119.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_htfwzlEd51emAzmkcuPgyc1CYCelA0d7rIYuAmGbihXbITYBSB_nrfVEO9fAmtsHll69fmXa_LCcOgkbrjCdJKIOQPbsV-k4akfzp7ZzOIPrkVsrieLiF9uz_qiDuHx4nQC0rA/s400/P1050119.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
took some time to travel up to a lookout to the north of Wilpena, with many
more sightings of kangaroos and emus, before venturing south and west to our
next overnight stop in Melrose, about 280km north of Adelaide. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVLSgnPG-jWi4BjLSizlvYeHljHFGRXs6RywEkyD8bazdY0d1XB9ZmF5hcB96gdqcidfuKPNovzr2gljYZVKeltAgavc3xDdqEpXeA6u87MJ7Rn4nriV9o5pr169nM_lTTrRsWGw/s1600/P1050134.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVLSgnPG-jWi4BjLSizlvYeHljHFGRXs6RywEkyD8bazdY0d1XB9ZmF5hcB96gdqcidfuKPNovzr2gljYZVKeltAgavc3xDdqEpXeA6u87MJ7Rn4nriV9o5pr169nM_lTTrRsWGw/s400/P1050134.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUfmTOED40LBvT0AVQMHLTSHFcbsA-HRNSrKK3Z3qJsJclMHlbAiLREXWVUQFQm1d9Ei6RzFCBNX5WjcKf8YDXIsxIgcBX3mt5jKNs5Je5RNFyKBrNB3olEtefNgdGjZS-p9au3Q/s1600/P1050139.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUfmTOED40LBvT0AVQMHLTSHFcbsA-HRNSrKK3Z3qJsJclMHlbAiLREXWVUQFQm1d9Ei6RzFCBNX5WjcKf8YDXIsxIgcBX3mt5jKNs5Je5RNFyKBrNB3olEtefNgdGjZS-p9au3Q/s400/P1050139.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF-oirzhl53wFU-4deM08nZYXGGi72stARp41m9tSkKyl5c-JTbXIzgpU7Jz9as8ravCDcAzyYK-smlLbe7vYn7UDDn3lPGIDKFejCgfS-RomnxztnKb-dvJo2X-BnKPDqtLDNgw/s1600/P1050125.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF-oirzhl53wFU-4deM08nZYXGGi72stARp41m9tSkKyl5c-JTbXIzgpU7Jz9as8ravCDcAzyYK-smlLbe7vYn7UDDn3lPGIDKFejCgfS-RomnxztnKb-dvJo2X-BnKPDqtLDNgw/s400/P1050125.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emu...not known for its intelligence!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US">Breakfast was
had in the small town of Hawker, a general store with cafe, supermarket and
post office all under one roof. Then south through Quorn and down to Melrose, a
relatively short day today, about 170km on empty roads, crossing areas of red
desert and finally into wide expanses of sheep and wheat country again.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCBN4yyB6p1MKiCulJst1ar7dH6b03MFiViszCqKZ8r0FgYdWhO23dDOWoOAPQBzzFT2lWHWoks87PCzoF8-ibaQC0KyCkAtR0YJiRhSNNaXthAx5VN8hysca821CpNZPUHyyeEQ/s1600/P1050144.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCBN4yyB6p1MKiCulJst1ar7dH6b03MFiViszCqKZ8r0FgYdWhO23dDOWoOAPQBzzFT2lWHWoks87PCzoF8-ibaQC0KyCkAtR0YJiRhSNNaXthAx5VN8hysca821CpNZPUHyyeEQ/s400/P1050144.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Only in Australia!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqzWjxzLGAuTw1qcSBrD6hx-D2BDJFRbqNk0lrT4SfmVCVXjvh7q_OTvOV7qh0RFKolxNX6B4EJMunrqNpAKMItxzpanJTMa56962yJpoJh2_c-V438K2SjAXII0RSL0RkUn58-g/s1600/P1050145.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqzWjxzLGAuTw1qcSBrD6hx-D2BDJFRbqNk0lrT4SfmVCVXjvh7q_OTvOV7qh0RFKolxNX6B4EJMunrqNpAKMItxzpanJTMa56962yJpoJh2_c-V438K2SjAXII0RSL0RkUn58-g/s400/P1050145.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP1e_rT4rZTtNCwFHZdFKwYFhn7CoM-FqcAzb7VwFiIrRN8bN4jHxg7WdAYrWaXxKVekKxSJ0roU3GVzCamncFqrgE2dl7X5bsSYaGaEuOxAoFTO84NzgSu7vNy6ti4pWSzT7CFA/s1600/P1050141.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP1e_rT4rZTtNCwFHZdFKwYFhn7CoM-FqcAzb7VwFiIrRN8bN4jHxg7WdAYrWaXxKVekKxSJ0roU3GVzCamncFqrgE2dl7X5bsSYaGaEuOxAoFTO84NzgSu7vNy6ti4pWSzT7CFA/s400/P1050141.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rush hour in South Australia!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Our
overnight accomodation was in the North Star hotel, dating from the mid 19th
century, and we had to use a nearby hotel for food and substenance as the
owners were in the process of closing the hotel down. Not one of my better
finds!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Enjoyed
a decent walk up from the town on a section of the Heysen Trail, although I
didn't have time to get as far as the peak of Mount Remarkable, which broods
over the town. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBjKJTHX1ZDc5wWJiTOJqg1P6n6e2YUyTFSYhKA6iYNDnSRO4I-1ythX1ADD2oqwG9sLvGKbhjQO4P0zskRdIOIx6vOT21RAeZrfRXKAm8xabnVYhnrkTc4yAObnjLQ0u7g3wlTw/s1600/P1050149.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBjKJTHX1ZDc5wWJiTOJqg1P6n6e2YUyTFSYhKA6iYNDnSRO4I-1ythX1ADD2oqwG9sLvGKbhjQO4P0zskRdIOIx6vOT21RAeZrfRXKAm8xabnVYhnrkTc4yAObnjLQ0u7g3wlTw/s400/P1050149.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sleepy Melrose</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNS3bbawWcfAl5JKt96BzfswTPLQ3Sqri1nN_YvNYnfXtfeCW-dSN9k9yyrPx07aV3lfQclIg-cuhqMTutbBBZWD4qCf5yb8EeUzQpP-758X2ZnVi_X6WGHiS7gXCKzuRSLAKODw/s1600/P1050152.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNS3bbawWcfAl5JKt96BzfswTPLQ3Sqri1nN_YvNYnfXtfeCW-dSN9k9yyrPx07aV3lfQclIg-cuhqMTutbBBZWD4qCf5yb8EeUzQpP-758X2ZnVi_X6WGHiS7gXCKzuRSLAKODw/s400/P1050152.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhakVi-T7EhJUpauerYkhCCgJggDF77Hk7NhVy9l5hdt-pxC7ISMzKqBn0jfEkDxF7itwWZwburN_PCBlIZJ4XHmhvxeG7pT_X578A-e_PBST0_wYiskRucfeiTqZpO9t_WFPHKIQ/s1600/P1050163.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhakVi-T7EhJUpauerYkhCCgJggDF77Hk7NhVy9l5hdt-pxC7ISMzKqBn0jfEkDxF7itwWZwburN_PCBlIZJ4XHmhvxeG7pT_X578A-e_PBST0_wYiskRucfeiTqZpO9t_WFPHKIQ/s400/P1050163.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Heysen Trail is a long-distance trail through South Australia</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US">Melrose is also a big mountain biking centre, with the Mawson
Trail going through here. Our hosts obviously felt guilty about their imminent
closure and gifted us a bottle of a good sparkling red Shiraz made at their
winery, Bundaleer, a glass or two enjoyed on our balcony whilst watching flocks
of cockatoos noisily pass overhead. We visited the <a href="http://members.westnet.com.au/venhoek/~melrose/museum/Museum.htm">local folk museum</a>, well
worth an hour, which exhibited local history...everything from imprisoning
'marauding natives' to the trials and tribulations of attempting to grow crops
in an area known for periodic droughts and plagues of rabbits and locusts!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
following day dawned with clear blue skies and the alarm call this morning was
the fly past of huge flocks of cockatoos going off to feed, apparently to the
grain silos north of us. We're heading to the famed Barossa Valley vineyards
today. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">So
back south, across the enormous wheat fields which dominate these parts and
eventually passing back through the Clare Valley and it's verdant Riesling vineyards.
</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">After
a couple of hours we stopped at the friendly little town of Kapunda, had a
coffee and cake plus caught up on the email, before heading into the vineyards
via the small town of Greenock. We took the Scenic Road right around the
valley, spotting many famous names like Jacobs Creek, Peter Lehmann, before
paying a quick visit to the huge Wolf Blass visitor centre up near Stockwell.
Too large and commercial for me, so we headed back to <a href="http://www.murraystreet.com.au/">Murray Street Vineyards</a>
near Greenock for a tasting (a good Viognier Marsanne blend to start) finished
off with a glass of 'Benno' (55% Shiraz and 45% Mouvedre - known as Mataro in
these parts), accompanied by a lovely platter of local meats and cheeses. A
very nice spot, with personal and enthusiastic service. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnrOw_RLLg1z6rT_C6bbmmgoDDEdZZSxjWolwaQPaylQFV-DnmNrz2PXMDrW-tdATRvkoPPnxQpF813V65R5j2bvM1qDTQ2EskNqNH7e6-KaWpANgHGm3-v49POFOocWXw0lsRuA/s1600/P1050164.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnrOw_RLLg1z6rT_C6bbmmgoDDEdZZSxjWolwaQPaylQFV-DnmNrz2PXMDrW-tdATRvkoPPnxQpF813V65R5j2bvM1qDTQ2EskNqNH7e6-KaWpANgHGm3-v49POFOocWXw0lsRuA/s400/P1050164.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entering the Barossa Valley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSZFGX1r4HTBYPJZanAMhf1LTOElVfzZ4lhfn2DYGttNZlDa9avo9lZ8YaHgP5wkyL-bvT65Hw0D7qmDCVo451pTkLewI2xd_Gs7LaC0AUlYyAFSV-D2CoUqLdedHb9QvvNgl74w/s1600/P1050166.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSZFGX1r4HTBYPJZanAMhf1LTOElVfzZ4lhfn2DYGttNZlDa9avo9lZ8YaHgP5wkyL-bvT65Hw0D7qmDCVo451pTkLewI2xd_Gs7LaC0AUlYyAFSV-D2CoUqLdedHb9QvvNgl74w/s400/P1050166.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF6ckqx4Fq22P-df_CfOp8Khff_dCxMJH_Kcsrs_jfGvyd2AKtZRQp9e0UCqtwQ6h0dXTpTuaXJ5iy6hKXgz0g0c8QXec9N4u86EJDKfPV5_KYlDMAi3ZMd_H6HglKsVyWV3KYjQ/s1600/P1050174.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF6ckqx4Fq22P-df_CfOp8Khff_dCxMJH_Kcsrs_jfGvyd2AKtZRQp9e0UCqtwQ6h0dXTpTuaXJ5iy6hKXgz0g0c8QXec9N4u86EJDKfPV5_KYlDMAi3ZMd_H6HglKsVyWV3KYjQ/s640/P1050174.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I've been drinking it for years!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">We
then found our residence for the night, the historic <a href="http://www.collingrovehomestead.com.au/">Collingrove Homestead</a>,
formerly the house of the Angas family, after which the nearby town of Angaston
is named. It's owned by the National Trust, and the house is open to the
public, giving a very authentic insight into the way the gentry here lived
before the turn of the century. The room was characterful and spacious, and a
quiet night can be expected as, once again, we're out in the middle of nowhere.
</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmKUkPZGJkFdreAIPFHCyz27YohAD8FGza7jj89kMkyeyY0zV6OXRIAlf6V26RXwYBESymfwOMDvd69BCbA8kJZS5F1V61zrUjNUJAaxhRdldFXrybcoXnK73iw7-iWqcr2lqaKg/s1600/P1050177.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmKUkPZGJkFdreAIPFHCyz27YohAD8FGza7jj89kMkyeyY0zV6OXRIAlf6V26RXwYBESymfwOMDvd69BCbA8kJZS5F1V61zrUjNUJAaxhRdldFXrybcoXnK73iw7-iWqcr2lqaKg/s400/P1050177.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Collingrove Homestead</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUiXNjV3BOs1nhLjsaQsBFUpaM_8Vl5tDSTQP4WxlG9QJpafCML92P4IL2lz8UpFDKn_JmI0iYYOzhAYfWs8V3mpl7DlMDry0Q_JAzmOKNTAChqfBRs9GsR8uRj6pWCstIvAzTGw/s1600/P1050181.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUiXNjV3BOs1nhLjsaQsBFUpaM_8Vl5tDSTQP4WxlG9QJpafCML92P4IL2lz8UpFDKn_JmI0iYYOzhAYfWs8V3mpl7DlMDry0Q_JAzmOKNTAChqfBRs9GsR8uRj6pWCstIvAzTGw/s400/P1050181.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Drinks
and dinner tonight with a good friend and ex colleague Ken and his wife
Carolyn, at the 1918 Bistro in Tanunda, about 18km away.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">After
an excellent breakfast, next day took us down through the Adelaide Hills,
through towns like Hahndorf which still hang on to their original settler
heritage with German bakeries and very attractive Lutheran churches, and on
into the Fleurieu Peninsula to the ferry terminal at Cape Jervis, a 45 minute
passage to Kangaroo Island (KI). You wind across very attractive rolling hills
as you head down the peninsula, through parched grassland and many different
types of eucalypts, with sea views as you reach the last 30km. Reminded me of
Devon, without the green!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">From
the ferry terminal in Penneshaw, it was a 60km drive to our next stopping
point, a journey along good roads with verdant and extremely varied bush on
either side of the road, including areas of what looked like salt marsh
populated by low, red heather type vegetation. There were a good many roadkills
along the way, indicating a high population of kangaroos and wallablies around
us. We checked into our modern hotel, the Aurora Ozone, right on the sea front
in Kingscote, the quiet capital of Kangaroo Island (population 1600!) and
enjoyed a lazy late afternoon, watching the sea and the pelicans from our
balcony. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDiyMgnSXCQnZ9G8ymoJezsuFXLbUBW_GUI5jmUHaY3MoNrVinZFUiTsu4XWrBULk-nfnnBOSeoLpeGA-cKYB4Ictf1dfxrDYIySAE_OYW31D5X0OH0flS8ByOt20UA3410Jloqg/s1600/P1050191.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDiyMgnSXCQnZ9G8ymoJezsuFXLbUBW_GUI5jmUHaY3MoNrVinZFUiTsu4XWrBULk-nfnnBOSeoLpeGA-cKYB4Ictf1dfxrDYIySAE_OYW31D5X0OH0flS8ByOt20UA3410Jloqg/s400/P1050191.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aurora Ozone Hotel, Kingscote</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbBnWB_wJpZcdH2f-leYvqpraH-1044K5rnj477oN4L5VR76kGeS76cqTFNER5ueUNqCKeXREtFuFATQBfdyDRfWvWfiblZNnvA6lp4HB9rh7d00DoWwflAbJDnYapXDHG896GBA/s1600/P1050319.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbBnWB_wJpZcdH2f-leYvqpraH-1044K5rnj477oN4L5VR76kGeS76cqTFNER5ueUNqCKeXREtFuFATQBfdyDRfWvWfiblZNnvA6lp4HB9rh7d00DoWwflAbJDnYapXDHG896GBA/s400/P1050319.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arrival in Penneshaw</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Our
day touring KI was in somewhat cloudy and occasionally drizzly conditions. It
doesn't look very big on the maps, but don't let that fool you...we travelled
well over 200km during the day, albeit on virtually deserted and well surfaced
roads, but I suppose if I was asked to sum up KI I'd recommend you bring a 4WD
vehicle as many of the gems of the island, secluded pristine beaches, wildlife
sanctuaries and remote treks, are only accessible via dirt roads. The other
thing to point out is that, between the various stop offs, the scenery is
limited to the dense bush on either side of the road, and occasional avenues of
low gum trees. On the eastern half of the island the scenery is limited to
grazing land beyond the bush, whereas in the western half, the land is densely
covered in low bush and thick stands of forestry, so hardly anywhere are there
expansive views. But this is Australia after all, and in many other parts of
this continent you will also travel long distances through homogenous
landscapes before the next feature of note. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvtQD4mryNt-CFQS0t-6RPevB6Vl5BkXaNrqZ0ZqI6WGoPtAEdl7FFLpncvoZ-67XeBmSJznvIqLRDoaKAJuuZTJdtx_JaniywRCIWDCgiQY7_GPr4GI9Pg-v3UIPsgdxpWebu-A/s1600/P1050205.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvtQD4mryNt-CFQS0t-6RPevB6Vl5BkXaNrqZ0ZqI6WGoPtAEdl7FFLpncvoZ-67XeBmSJznvIqLRDoaKAJuuZTJdtx_JaniywRCIWDCgiQY7_GPr4GI9Pg-v3UIPsgdxpWebu-A/s400/P1050205.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kangaroo Island vistas</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQDI4ysTy5efoWm-ncuSsWgkZPuq-tYQZJG2OB4YPpOL6CZvRGrt-6JW6915Fh41lxWkC1iHpOrb0UwIoAOribczBmHSWsdP26Ta7gFgGXUg9MDIOUNSf-vAEjC3pTkhmL1qMKaA/s1600/P1050255.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQDI4ysTy5efoWm-ncuSsWgkZPuq-tYQZJG2OB4YPpOL6CZvRGrt-6JW6915Fh41lxWkC1iHpOrb0UwIoAOribczBmHSWsdP26Ta7gFgGXUg9MDIOUNSf-vAEjC3pTkhmL1qMKaA/s400/P1050255.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'Gum Tree Avenue', Kangaroo Island</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Wildlife
is a big plus. We were, however, disappointed with the Seal Bay Visitor Centre
on the south coast, our first stop off. Here you have two options: pay $15 each
to walk a boardwalk and see a few sleeping Australian sea lions (they go to sea
and eat for three days, then return here to rest up for three days before going
off again), or, pay $30 each for a guided walk which gives you access to most
populated sea lion area, off limits to the board walkers...a rip off. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO4i0dtl3b1ZEEhss0R0UUNt5yRCSTsVwdFmyJ86wMGQUgum9ELh2skFTAvDfw9IsqDE2a0cT1CYAwriQVWo3LyWBE7vx_4VgS9tloI1YEOGzrErY1dXJWMZbx24GWyE66ROs2Cw/s1600/P1010970.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO4i0dtl3b1ZEEhss0R0UUNt5yRCSTsVwdFmyJ86wMGQUgum9ELh2skFTAvDfw9IsqDE2a0cT1CYAwriQVWo3LyWBE7vx_4VgS9tloI1YEOGzrErY1dXJWMZbx24GWyE66ROs2Cw/s640/P1010970.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sea lion, KI</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">However,
onwards! The highlight of the day was to follow. I've never seen koala in their
natural habitat, but at the Koala Walk on the western end of the South Coast
Rd, they have groves of large eucalypt, and there is a population of 22 koalas
living there. Not easy to find, as they seem to prefer sleeping high up in
these trees, but during the course of an hour or so, we were able to spot five
of these endearing little fellas, one sighting of a mother and cub nestled
together. One of them was quite active, climbing the spindly branches right at
the top of one of the trees and having a good scratch! And the location also
had abundant KI kangaroo, Tammar wallabies, and bird life to spot at close hand
too...from the humble crow, the Australian magpie (the one with the distinctive
early morning song you'll hear throughout Australia), galahs, Cape Barren
geese, Crimson Rosella, and the elusive but spectacularly coloured Rainbow
Lorikeets. Smaller birds like the Blue Ren and Scarlet Robin added, literally,
extra colour. Good value and highly recommended.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA5E17yiwj6o7667LiHQ8ZYImT_Aa0vjgaYbu4mlHXN7nzLAjZHDkNSoM7vl9yfcmX92rwCjq8wzommTNovs2W0OItzcAfgy8oWRuJnP3N-6j7MVp3urfoPcTGBuGh89vsc-asFA/s1600/P1010976.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA5E17yiwj6o7667LiHQ8ZYImT_Aa0vjgaYbu4mlHXN7nzLAjZHDkNSoM7vl9yfcmX92rwCjq8wzommTNovs2W0OItzcAfgy8oWRuJnP3N-6j7MVp3urfoPcTGBuGh89vsc-asFA/s640/P1010976.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">So cute...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE_WmfBsSJxMr2xU-5M9gq3zHJhv_gkZe3ecQwoSXpflr18ASILZIdVcrtFTClshu0CKWo13TkDybWy6oWtTfbqQ3TJxHnU9-qgqhRfxzoKPWeKSrtFVCUCj7rNcnhdI2OsJVuxg/s1600/P1010977.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE_WmfBsSJxMr2xU-5M9gq3zHJhv_gkZe3ecQwoSXpflr18ASILZIdVcrtFTClshu0CKWo13TkDybWy6oWtTfbqQ3TJxHnU9-qgqhRfxzoKPWeKSrtFVCUCj7rNcnhdI2OsJVuxg/s640/P1010977.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And we thought BA's Premium Economy was uncomfortable...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsEOnk4iuANse-m30cvUCMPI1eS0I5K265qfowucSNC-5HXUKK5vCiuInT4xNijKCnUWlOURojGcrB1FmcAlTSgLXZrzIbFbc1G4gUNHd3-lznM38kIjd8DXq9JwsTQ7jiF_lOLw/s1600/P1010982.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsEOnk4iuANse-m30cvUCMPI1eS0I5K265qfowucSNC-5HXUKK5vCiuInT4xNijKCnUWlOURojGcrB1FmcAlTSgLXZrzIbFbc1G4gUNHd3-lznM38kIjd8DXq9JwsTQ7jiF_lOLw/s400/P1010982.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Galah</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPykQaAY3jMxbKse8ykiLtwjeHWw6GvQce0VInNftNj30csVOVqP-9lFPzHD3v6E5Vz4fqLEXZHnRPQ1mmntkZwCaTdTCn3U92_3yiBV2Pv7kaLrJoHdaV5n3M2E9SWbqMbGZA_g/s1600/P1010987.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPykQaAY3jMxbKse8ykiLtwjeHWw6GvQce0VInNftNj30csVOVqP-9lFPzHD3v6E5Vz4fqLEXZHnRPQ1mmntkZwCaTdTCn3U92_3yiBV2Pv7kaLrJoHdaV5n3M2E9SWbqMbGZA_g/s640/P1010987.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mum koala with cub</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWI4floQojlwCbKP0mJ_EG8BywQ-OGpRciORnxcCyMxSoXUN-GY0KajzeRp1UXG5Am1Ly3fblBTlc91ub23egahnAe94QsLbAl0H9t9E6B3sFaZMd56D29v6PIFLWRvm6VByoJgA/s1600/P1010993.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWI4floQojlwCbKP0mJ_EG8BywQ-OGpRciORnxcCyMxSoXUN-GY0KajzeRp1UXG5Am1Ly3fblBTlc91ub23egahnAe94QsLbAl0H9t9E6B3sFaZMd56D29v6PIFLWRvm6VByoJgA/s640/P1010993.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Koala insomniac</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Further
west and south we entered the Flinders Chase National Park and once another
entry fee had been extracted from us, we worked our way down the narrower
winding road to the New Zealand Fur Seal colony at Admiralty Arch and the
interesting rock formation known as Remarkable Rocks, a weathered granite dome,
with a great deal of orange lichen adding character to the rock surfaces. Good
views down the south coast from here too. And, a bonus, on the road side we
spotted a short beaked echidna, a small porcupine like animal, and got some
close-up shots. Possum scat was seen, but only road kill seen of this
particular island resident. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWxqkPN9FbF6WtwBgc0qi4aXFLHcvtZA8MuoIKdEy2A3N6iIoMFShzX3s6neID8BQv2_MF0WV_m5adQxIyetJvlsTjJpTwlAdmxzLjkuh0PFcj5X49ZIRI9FadJGAslppllyTv6g/s1600/P1050263.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWxqkPN9FbF6WtwBgc0qi4aXFLHcvtZA8MuoIKdEy2A3N6iIoMFShzX3s6neID8BQv2_MF0WV_m5adQxIyetJvlsTjJpTwlAdmxzLjkuh0PFcj5X49ZIRI9FadJGAslppllyTv6g/s400/P1050263.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Short-beaked echidna</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc-yqUagUMoX2qcO4lKrFJOiSgjRkplDP4cMKHZslDoiqJLT8j4MD0QKpySDQNOp1_QKEeXYrG1QPIyFlVWXQz-PgW44x0WhdOPnCI7fBkiDz9Kmvm0j6adJwZh02MyS8ijrIsFQ/s1600/P1050270.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc-yqUagUMoX2qcO4lKrFJOiSgjRkplDP4cMKHZslDoiqJLT8j4MD0QKpySDQNOp1_QKEeXYrG1QPIyFlVWXQz-PgW44x0WhdOPnCI7fBkiDz9Kmvm0j6adJwZh02MyS8ijrIsFQ/s400/P1050270.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Remarkable Rocks, KI</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq26YbAsGwoLUul0VZpD9c1OWWddJRaCoUxGpdNlEGvQ8O5jSf_CKIFzLzsw9YdrGFWzm5tNhaQ4daQuMlAbeFQjdJ5GnMfTm91enP7Ueq1Dia7jEAgiZkz-0atfw9Oni3nB6UWA/s1600/P1050271.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq26YbAsGwoLUul0VZpD9c1OWWddJRaCoUxGpdNlEGvQ8O5jSf_CKIFzLzsw9YdrGFWzm5tNhaQ4daQuMlAbeFQjdJ5GnMfTm91enP7Ueq1Dia7jEAgiZkz-0atfw9Oni3nB6UWA/s400/P1050271.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQuOIzI2o31BDpmgVinAAIS2rneSyxS5kRDB5t0aX3nQzwSsgFzWtaOEJY9aZuk_SRvCEJ2LPUZZrj8xTpKVSTSAhYmt9UUcw5Hky-72bNFxIGZxnAO43-QnUoqWPfF_9XQvX7fg/s1600/P1050279.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQuOIzI2o31BDpmgVinAAIS2rneSyxS5kRDB5t0aX3nQzwSsgFzWtaOEJY9aZuk_SRvCEJ2LPUZZrj8xTpKVSTSAhYmt9UUcw5Hky-72bNFxIGZxnAO43-QnUoqWPfF_9XQvX7fg/s400/P1050279.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKSCpX4AttCl6In1W0862mWs81XeTRlbfcoBqz5KISwQfMQYf06KX19VB3Bflr2-JZ__bqariHCA9GLD3uaSfglTw32QENTXjB8_ZLPoRNBh7DJkDoLRi3i4-wUAr9ITSjpIhlZw/s1600/P1050280.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKSCpX4AttCl6In1W0862mWs81XeTRlbfcoBqz5KISwQfMQYf06KX19VB3Bflr2-JZ__bqariHCA9GLD3uaSfglTw32QENTXjB8_ZLPoRNBh7DJkDoLRi3i4-wUAr9ITSjpIhlZw/s400/P1050280.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7rtTCD3qmPdxfORzb9dYGuuA4YTzMj1N50-ZXOnM1tMTRpTh-z02KGQImcdBvkny5JeIbCFhEwg_gxZ3cjdkEXiI_MkLaWMOeAicSUbkKnbGo4IfpQsD7Xg1unxw0QtgrC089FA/s1600/P1050286.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7rtTCD3qmPdxfORzb9dYGuuA4YTzMj1N50-ZXOnM1tMTRpTh-z02KGQImcdBvkny5JeIbCFhEwg_gxZ3cjdkEXiI_MkLaWMOeAicSUbkKnbGo4IfpQsD7Xg1unxw0QtgrC089FA/s400/P1050286.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQLzilf5bamr_5g4KSzCNc2gZVnpZaNLhA2LJql3Ad1KtrxHDOeAFfCJ4g0CmyduOeiJ7TwPJMqxrGtLO9b8Gzec09MHoeENPdB2iL8QX2Xvt8mPuAmVhDBbuDpzXD6-t9oI0A8A/s1600/P1050290.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQLzilf5bamr_5g4KSzCNc2gZVnpZaNLhA2LJql3Ad1KtrxHDOeAFfCJ4g0CmyduOeiJ7TwPJMqxrGtLO9b8Gzec09MHoeENPdB2iL8QX2Xvt8mPuAmVhDBbuDpzXD6-t9oI0A8A/s400/P1050290.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFGJ4ZZcrYbs6MV2AZbt7MJirk9-LqdkrPElZ26kQdBYKHCukVPjUfiFXpiaBexnx7PVVl4gse1H4N8Bawmln8fmEKzTwgNnjOzmvwyVpNSxoxbA1eMlaDa4_KTAtDqcX9sPEATg/s1600/P1050308.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFGJ4ZZcrYbs6MV2AZbt7MJirk9-LqdkrPElZ26kQdBYKHCukVPjUfiFXpiaBexnx7PVVl4gse1H4N8Bawmln8fmEKzTwgNnjOzmvwyVpNSxoxbA1eMlaDa4_KTAtDqcX9sPEATg/s400/P1050308.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New Zealand fur seal colony at Admiralty Arch, KI</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsPTj_73PyyVxIZOAUHDUN4Y5zXtASLPsD7icnYoZoPLfnJFEnqT8p4OVp_dAeNKpmlqSjwT7BGGTdAQw2Xg-4jGg774RLsumEMKPMga4HO8ZeZr666hGKzgWLxIxKiAm853LmYQ/s1600/P1050312.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsPTj_73PyyVxIZOAUHDUN4Y5zXtASLPsD7icnYoZoPLfnJFEnqT8p4OVp_dAeNKpmlqSjwT7BGGTdAQw2Xg-4jGg774RLsumEMKPMga4HO8ZeZr666hGKzgWLxIxKiAm853LmYQ/s400/P1050312.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUPsv5PAS5242FswSy2TJHe81N2SCMbrpo-TXyToaaC_XQFp16mbnXF1_grPKb9gLJiAtG_kZ2UCpOW3INTB9nnGGETJ_dbV8MiIoHDfLJqeLGKvf5r4gpos2puh6s_bVv9DcHUg/s1600/P1050294.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUPsv5PAS5242FswSy2TJHe81N2SCMbrpo-TXyToaaC_XQFp16mbnXF1_grPKb9gLJiAtG_kZ2UCpOW3INTB9nnGGETJ_dbV8MiIoHDfLJqeLGKvf5r4gpos2puh6s_bVv9DcHUg/s400/P1050294.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Late
afternoon we headed north then east on now completely deserted roads, spotting
large areas of bush that was regenerating after previous fires and the odd
kangaroo hopping down the road. We also had to slow abruptly to let a peacock
family cross the road in front of us. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Our
final stop of the day was the 'Island Beehive', a centre where you can taste
the very different honeys produced by the Ligurian Bee in different bush
habitats. KI has been a sanctuary for this species since 1885. And a final
treat, honey comb ice cream....delicious. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
good dinner at the friendly Bella restaurant in Kingscote rounded a busy day
off!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Final
day in SA, with a 45 minute drive to catch the ferry at Penneshaw and a one
hour crossing back to Cape Jervis due to the heavier swell on the sea this
time. The road up the Fleurieu Peninsula is delightful, winding its way across
the hills and along the coast, and it was only an hour before we entered the
McLaren Valley wine region, and enjoyed a good cheese platter with
Leconsfield's Old Vine Riesling at the winery. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">An
easy drive through Adelaide's southern suburbs and into the airport for our
late afternoon flight to Sydney, ready for our departure to Queenstown in New
Zealand tomorrow. And another 1700 km on the clock. Phew!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">Summary</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">So,
we complete another sojourn to Australia. The highs and the lows?</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Let's
start with the lows. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">The
cost! Even by my own (historically excessive) standards, Australia is currently
a very expensive place to visit. It's not just the weakness of the </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Arial Unicode MS';">£</span><span lang="EN-US"> to AUD, but food and drink
here are very pricey, something that the locals would attest to as well. And
hotels don't seem to offer much in the way of off-season pricing. So we move on
to NZ with much dented wallets. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">There
were two hotels that are worth a miss...the Victoria & Albert in Mount
Victoria, NSW and the soon to be closed North Star Hotel in Melrose. And think
twice about doing the boardwalk route at Seal Bay on KI. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Fortunately,
there were many highlights. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Accomodation
first. Casabelle in Bellingen, lovely hosts, splendid room and grounds. One
Tree B&B in Auburn, just south of Clare, SA: wonderful retreat, yummy
chocolate coloured strawberries and great BBQ pack. Collingrove Homestead, for
the sense of history and gourmet breakfast. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Food
& drink next. I still rate the historic pubs in The Rocks area of Sydney,
especially the Lord Nelson...full of local characters, good ale and
surprisingly good food. And Doyles in Watson's Bay. Further afield, I wish I'd
spent more time in the Hunter Valley, although here the restaurants really know
how to charge, being only two hours away for affluent Sydney-siders. The wine and platter at the Murray Street
Vineyard in the Barossa was also memorable. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Sights.
Sydney Harbour as always. The Waterfall Way in northern NSW is worth a visit,
but I'd only go after heavy rain so that you actually see a waterfall! In SA, I
enjoyed the remoteness of the Flinders Range out of season, I particularly
liked the Barossa region, and on KI, the Koala Walk was very rewarding. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">And,
finally, the people. As always, the informal and friendly style of local people
was very welcoming. You do have to adjust your mind to a somewhat slower pace,
even in the cities, but that, after all, is just what a holiday needs!</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9888425.post-34760516227460577532012-01-26T05:22:00.000+00:002012-03-01T06:37:10.764+00:00Singapore<br />
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjadReApsgfv343tGu_MB62SBdOoXXrhFKuCggMrroaqZZZ7FtSIcLulDYxTpkyNWC4hayFbKt2PDjN5TJ4Kipi3-j0gg19y1HK-7f_ueWcvb1YawItzi_VXgokoJm5k_XFz-aA/s1600/P1040683.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjadReApsgfv343tGu_MB62SBdOoXXrhFKuCggMrroaqZZZ7FtSIcLulDYxTpkyNWC4hayFbKt2PDjN5TJ4Kipi3-j0gg19y1HK-7f_ueWcvb1YawItzi_VXgokoJm5k_XFz-aA/s400/P1040683.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Marina, Singapore</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US">12.5
hours from London. BA Premium Economy outbound to Singapore on a Boeing 777
that had a very poorly maintained cabin and thin blankets. Notably inferior to
Qantas which was used for the leg down to Sydney. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Changi
uncrowded and efficient, city centre only 25 minutes by taxi. Taxis are
friendly and inexpensive. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Park
Hotel Clarke Quay comfortable, but crowding in breakfast room was irritating.
Located at the top end of the popular tourist attractions, bars, clubs and
restaurants located around Clarke Quay, just north of the old colonial district
and CBD.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
Fast
and efficient underground MRT in the city, but ticket machines can lead to
frustations and long queues.</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
quick visit to Little India, somewhat untidy compared to the sterility of the
city centre, and very much like visiting India itself with the smell of spices
pervading the market areas. A Hindu wedding observed at the Sri
Veeramakaliamman temple on Serangoon Road. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNlZtEdV8A3qqrZwD1-edfAR68SVYeHlCXFAOdLUV42fi-FytkQPQyB0BmiPfmL7RZhVllWddwRgrJDpVuXTDDVnEOrh0iLJy7xr9BSK2jPqWEmJrPQYZz43Rt6XT_q5op_wnS/s1600/P1010810.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNlZtEdV8A3qqrZwD1-edfAR68SVYeHlCXFAOdLUV42fi-FytkQPQyB0BmiPfmL7RZhVllWddwRgrJDpVuXTDDVnEOrh0iLJy7xr9BSK2jPqWEmJrPQYZz43Rt6XT_q5op_wnS/s400/P1010810.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ancient Indian influences amidst this thoroughly modern city</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The
Marina is a true spectacle, overlooked by the verticality of the bank and
insurance buildings to the west, and bordered by the amazing Marina Bay Sands,
a luxury hotel with a construction feature capping the three towers of the
building which resembles the hull and superstructure of a cruise liner, the
Sands SkyPark. In front of the hotel is the luxury shopping mall and various
expo galleries and futuristic structure of the ArtScience Museum projecting out
into the marina. To the east is the ferris wheel Singapore Flyer and the
Floating Stage which acts as a viewpoint for the Singapore F1 event.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgfD8_f0mVOaxSZ3PbYZFYlkUnNfq1NIUiqDECzkMBL_nz6gQFbIu029J6wF3X5pYHnHqHmByN8ubzFeIjYT2gkHXVIYUSGBP2d5XBDD2wZKUhBYh0M32RQ8C_C35fLrZNITBO/s1600/P1040674.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgfD8_f0mVOaxSZ3PbYZFYlkUnNfq1NIUiqDECzkMBL_nz6gQFbIu029J6wF3X5pYHnHqHmByN8ubzFeIjYT2gkHXVIYUSGBP2d5XBDD2wZKUhBYh0M32RQ8C_C35fLrZNITBO/s640/P1040674.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQCtr84d4pzartC7lBgix3C8MyThNq_4ivrMDpV6IUGBVvkrdHsBt94SA5S4by-Og_rG7rKxt9z463voYLjdcQk_xLMlSnQX0eiAypenEQL6Zac9f3PfW8ldm_Z2vf09r7IlyT/s1600/P1040681.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQCtr84d4pzartC7lBgix3C8MyThNq_4ivrMDpV6IUGBVvkrdHsBt94SA5S4by-Og_rG7rKxt9z463voYLjdcQk_xLMlSnQX0eiAypenEQL6Zac9f3PfW8ldm_Z2vf09r7IlyT/s640/P1040681.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marina Bay Sands</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyGpl8f4QvbdZapP_m9aelruQ7X4BnVjTS0eHDNKlxcGnRxivS_d2AeuqMtfW78Uo5XtLtGLxhyphenhyphentxnDMQ3DSAsiiep7Wtjcjmur5x29_tfaKNNcWS2V-L5oevPB79JyaaniSlx/s1600/P1040688.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyGpl8f4QvbdZapP_m9aelruQ7X4BnVjTS0eHDNKlxcGnRxivS_d2AeuqMtfW78Uo5XtLtGLxhyphenhyphentxnDMQ3DSAsiiep7Wtjcjmur5x29_tfaKNNcWS2V-L5oevPB79JyaaniSlx/s400/P1040688.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzZBH8Y0JXedLqA9mZZW9biaMSTC6_qhXM3otzN39U4OQpCNtcD5eMyfH4pOS3LdjUQiXoxHz8buOc_fYwt2REm7Uu3t2M0yVb_FMb0Mb0j9BV5vRM2K7bruhDhQIesSuBCs5h/s1600/P1040707.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzZBH8Y0JXedLqA9mZZW9biaMSTC6_qhXM3otzN39U4OQpCNtcD5eMyfH4pOS3LdjUQiXoxHz8buOc_fYwt2REm7Uu3t2M0yVb_FMb0Mb0j9BV5vRM2K7bruhDhQIesSuBCs5h/s400/P1040707.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marina Bay Sands and the Helix Bridge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The
Long Bar at Raffles was, as expected, somewhat underwhelming, but it's
essential to have a famed Singapore Sling in this historic building. One quirk
of the bar is that shells from the freely provided groundnuts are just swept
off the tables on to the floor, a hangover from bygone days.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH3dMFbbBDXjZ4XnPL0yr5uXL_KOaB5iFKjVzDXYO4zaZrSwcF-oZF8k_buHwTR7HgUdJo8c0BBPFwiiW3ioxC4IV1pNs30Z5Sx5JPYf3w2yCP9UwcQ5_5c1zwP1mogMwVfR5n/s1600/P1040716.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH3dMFbbBDXjZ4XnPL0yr5uXL_KOaB5iFKjVzDXYO4zaZrSwcF-oZF8k_buHwTR7HgUdJo8c0BBPFwiiW3ioxC4IV1pNs30Z5Sx5JPYf3w2yCP9UwcQ5_5c1zwP1mogMwVfR5n/s640/P1040716.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The essential Raffles experience!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkJ2hMH8Hmg2j4fQKQAQ26zykY0Dk3LsZJKVOKh-93aHcCyvVDixJCoWX8cUpk4Xe21zY1hiwlaN1fhD4oWpM2frM4cytvic7n1MECVrWMy3abRJzupHomCBGZyHNHMfBVAcR4/s1600/P1040726.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkJ2hMH8Hmg2j4fQKQAQ26zykY0Dk3LsZJKVOKh-93aHcCyvVDixJCoWX8cUpk4Xe21zY1hiwlaN1fhD4oWpM2frM4cytvic7n1MECVrWMy3abRJzupHomCBGZyHNHMfBVAcR4/s400/P1040726.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
A quick taxi ride
back to the hotel, passing the War Memorial which the locals call the
'Chopsticks', the Padang adjacent to the Cricket Club, and Parliament House.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgML7w36C6UqVsybFbE4PggzW_wCS2Eisu3LYmWXspZALPVn6xmhBsnQInc9FcuUfw-vKJl75N9vZ9AuAVfVYLrI0TXybi6BlAtCDzJdKTlVk6R2VnA1jb9zE6r9scOLxR1hJNa/s1600/P1040717.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgML7w36C6UqVsybFbE4PggzW_wCS2Eisu3LYmWXspZALPVn6xmhBsnQInc9FcuUfw-vKJl75N9vZ9AuAVfVYLrI0TXybi6BlAtCDzJdKTlVk6R2VnA1jb9zE6r9scOLxR1hJNa/s400/P1040717.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">War Memorial</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Dinner
in Chinatown, preceded by a quick look at the Sri Mariamman temple, and
somewhat enlivened by the Chinese New Year celebrations (Year of the Dragon).
Excellent food, including tofu in chilli oil.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjs-ZioPWQi24Y4s3nmUsQ3hmy7oRTqLal0jcf6hGWdy1hI5UuEYBUe9Fy38ffJOyMR5KhqvO-0s1_0eMb44KGXgjJpi3rNTXFHmZ2_jdMO1Tl7vn6byNtQkKh3LoIsifAn14k/s1600/P1010815.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjs-ZioPWQi24Y4s3nmUsQ3hmy7oRTqLal0jcf6hGWdy1hI5UuEYBUe9Fy38ffJOyMR5KhqvO-0s1_0eMb44KGXgjJpi3rNTXFHmZ2_jdMO1Tl7vn6byNtQkKh3LoIsifAn14k/s400/P1010815.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chinatown, Singapore</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYluIrRJkcquRvH3uBP_Zm0zI0OnKxX9T3kuVdpoeDUS5CBONbTNcicdhApMXluqzp56efgbno9uSs4OC6MK3ggKyCFsIxYmyRSNZA6xfBwwIhV5Sjrca0dG2JpCxEaPf6JyaR/s1600/P1010829.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYluIrRJkcquRvH3uBP_Zm0zI0OnKxX9T3kuVdpoeDUS5CBONbTNcicdhApMXluqzp56efgbno9uSs4OC6MK3ggKyCFsIxYmyRSNZA6xfBwwIhV5Sjrca0dG2JpCxEaPf6JyaR/s400/P1010829.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">Following
morning spent walking around Clarke Quay (reverse bungee and extreme swing part
of the attraction here), spotting the colourful Ministry of Communiactions
building, followed by a yomp at the
south end of the island, walking up the hill to Faber Point (which can be
reached by cable car) with views back to the city, the huge dockyards, and
directly south to the shopping, entertainment complexes and beaches of Vivo
City and Sentosa Island. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibtjnCQ1w_jje3dhQA0p89wegjvVjT6qQvPTsHGwM4jn2hWkytYe4o8UzUiPdTHWLJkDL5iRocSOHqg-obAIQ5QgL6WNna9pylqvrWm36bwo_IdZnhLolKPkVT3X3efJS_W2vx/s1600/P1040752.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibtjnCQ1w_jje3dhQA0p89wegjvVjT6qQvPTsHGwM4jn2hWkytYe4o8UzUiPdTHWLJkDL5iRocSOHqg-obAIQ5QgL6WNna9pylqvrWm36bwo_IdZnhLolKPkVT3X3efJS_W2vx/s400/P1040752.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzNDO_HB3HgjOB3alHuqZBmqoOCikJCrhYNAmyCFretEsV5MguEOvDvSDgTVWnatZJhkEaE3taPnrDY3V9yHSmPU6HNGXyulg4AUe6dYtgZJgk_LXOat4VEgvU5syeJouzKVg9/s1600/P1040754.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzNDO_HB3HgjOB3alHuqZBmqoOCikJCrhYNAmyCFretEsV5MguEOvDvSDgTVWnatZJhkEaE3taPnrDY3V9yHSmPU6HNGXyulg4AUe6dYtgZJgk_LXOat4VEgvU5syeJouzKVg9/s640/P1040754.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR9Z_g_g1wH1jQ5SuIe8QkXPNdBi6QpZsF5rUdnGUmherdL_f1odAw7W5B9qTaLXpxO8VprdMy5pyZc3C-gKcR3h9D8NbXhyphenhyphenpFXRtbXxSx9w2oUniDc8eiGjrZzfOEHjA3BYsl/s1600/P1040756.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR9Z_g_g1wH1jQ5SuIe8QkXPNdBi6QpZsF5rUdnGUmherdL_f1odAw7W5B9qTaLXpxO8VprdMy5pyZc3C-gKcR3h9D8NbXhyphenhyphenpFXRtbXxSx9w2oUniDc8eiGjrZzfOEHjA3BYsl/s400/P1040756.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span lang="EN-US">Verdant vegetation up here, with warnings about wild
monkeys, and peaceful respite from city below. Walked two sections of the
Southern Ridge trail, the Forest Walk accessed across the 274m long 'Henderson
Wave' a futuristic bridge constructed 36m above a highway, and then quickly
descending to Harbour Point via the Marang Trail. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5c_nKLlFHiToPLvnscgT5XfqI_4LScQtM3nk9u0EUY-CETV0cM52_jxdTmJ2u7Fvzxqn_iwi9aYdvrs90r6A1JI8WkvV99haERx31cMbD0H192h4olakFZVGwNQ3Km70MyKuE/s1600/P1040753.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5c_nKLlFHiToPLvnscgT5XfqI_4LScQtM3nk9u0EUY-CETV0cM52_jxdTmJ2u7Fvzxqn_iwi9aYdvrs90r6A1JI8WkvV99haERx31cMbD0H192h4olakFZVGwNQ3Km70MyKuE/s400/P1040753.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 'Henderson Wave' bridge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzNDO_HB3HgjOB3alHuqZBmqoOCikJCrhYNAmyCFretEsV5MguEOvDvSDgTVWnatZJhkEaE3taPnrDY3V9yHSmPU6HNGXyulg4AUe6dYtgZJgk_LXOat4VEgvU5syeJouzKVg9/s1600/P1040754.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzNDO_HB3HgjOB3alHuqZBmqoOCikJCrhYNAmyCFretEsV5MguEOvDvSDgTVWnatZJhkEaE3taPnrDY3V9yHSmPU6HNGXyulg4AUe6dYtgZJgk_LXOat4VEgvU5syeJouzKVg9/s640/P1040754.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRAPLswGRIqncpBwsMuchlitzOZ_M6oyIevsmOIsTrnOuA13dUz7Wn1437ymYj56xY1CY2b4xrSLxLA66bZaZkm9827-LFxU16XAu_qxpXPVSBSM6GL3sIcgTe51dubw_WOt_4/s1600/P1040758.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRAPLswGRIqncpBwsMuchlitzOZ_M6oyIevsmOIsTrnOuA13dUz7Wn1437ymYj56xY1CY2b4xrSLxLA66bZaZkm9827-LFxU16XAu_qxpXPVSBSM6GL3sIcgTe51dubw_WOt_4/s640/P1040758.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 'Henderson Wave' bridge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgASeEv2sPQ4qJ36nDR4JSKHbzSu-fBXvCGtK7zqGp9XB2waYyadFnZ0278xlwR-ZMwRAvgJXzgV1SExUBncUYp8AB9U_ehSEar6gqhm6ZOFtbv_610eix1PkS_jMlh3rXYpbkP/s1600/P1040760.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgASeEv2sPQ4qJ36nDR4JSKHbzSu-fBXvCGtK7zqGp9XB2waYyadFnZ0278xlwR-ZMwRAvgJXzgV1SExUBncUYp8AB9U_ehSEar6gqhm6ZOFtbv_610eix1PkS_jMlh3rXYpbkP/s400/P1040760.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3L-L_-b2YvSFMlwItBID82OGk9DwKk4FHtSwTGhSQFHZlF6kxCC3Yat4mS_gQaWoKOrch8xMyr1N6P2gTmqbPoybOD86Etq1PaFJZJ3ntBdHD9xBQmM0XLW82kacUmy1i8gRH/s1600/P1040761.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3L-L_-b2YvSFMlwItBID82OGk9DwKk4FHtSwTGhSQFHZlF6kxCC3Yat4mS_gQaWoKOrch8xMyr1N6P2gTmqbPoybOD86Etq1PaFJZJ3ntBdHD9xBQmM0XLW82kacUmy1i8gRH/s640/P1040761.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Forest walk, Southern Ridges</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="Body1">
<span lang="EN-US">A
quick beer in the <a href="http://www.brewerkz.com/">Brewerkz</a> micro-brewery</span><span lang="EN-US"> in Clarke Quay, then off to
the airport for the onward journey to Sydney, just over 7 hours flying time
from here.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9888425.post-19049006899999073632011-10-29T15:43:00.000+00:002020-02-13T12:30:49.178+00:00Bhutan - October 2011<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>Bhutan, Land of the Thunder Dragon</b></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU5s8WDPAlxZyMNqHP2IgYMt8WveO33wwDZ42RnH9VP3UJtOq6VEs9sXl6Fr5z3x98fbY2Cky0H4wIGqeoXLBKnCU2slJ9ljmvjz44rL8OzHJxxZfGuMuht0vEW8Z3MdO9D6ZM/s1600/P1030532.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU5s8WDPAlxZyMNqHP2IgYMt8WveO33wwDZ42RnH9VP3UJtOq6VEs9sXl6Fr5z3x98fbY2Cky0H4wIGqeoXLBKnCU2slJ9ljmvjz44rL8OzHJxxZfGuMuht0vEW8Z3MdO9D6ZM/s640/P1030532.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Thimphu Tshechu</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Summary</b><br />
<br />
An enchanting country, one where TV was only introduced in 1999, where there are no traffic lights anywhere, a nation which measures its own success in terms of 'Gross National Happiness', and where the national dress is proudly worn almost everywhere. <br />
It has a very different landscape to other parts of the Himalaya, with verdant sub-alpine hills rising to snow-capped peaks on the Tibetan and Sikkim borders, and fortress like dzongs and monasteries punctuating the slopes everywhere. The warmth of welcome to foreigners, who've only been allowed to travel in the country since 1974, is genuine, and their gentle nature stems from the Buddhist way of life that most adhere to. <br />
It's a mystical place too. Tantric Buddhism overlaid on animist beliefs gives rise to some startling iconography in monasteries, and houses are painted with protective deities to ward off evil spirits, including giant phalluses. Prayer flags adorn the hillsides, and on trek you know that, somewhere up above you, there's a snow leopard watching you pass. <br />
Like many other Asian countries one can sense that modernisation will ultimately change the society here, but unlike their peers this is a nation with a clear plan, an inspired philosophy of actively encouraging natural and cultural conservation, of maintaining long held traditions, whilst driving development in a sympathetic and orderly way.<br />
I like Bhutan a lot. Do make the effort to get there if you can. Don't be dissuaded by the minimum $250 per day (from 2012) that has to be committed ($65 of this goes to the government to help fund development programmes, and the rest covers all expenses such as guide services, transport, accommodation and food), or the fact that you have to travel with a guide. It's a unique culture and a fine example of what an enlightened leadership can do for a nation. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCww9DZzreahMEOcmRUjl6w1ICVTxE1pKtZ0kILxRSntZ2PbTVFxIRCVw5mFXwpzetxM0-ZVB2K8dG5rbMwRaeJQ0yjVjq1j79gOYwTkaE3rzmvN-Z1FTCfXFYG5GfRiP7mH_3/s1600/Revised+Jhomolhari+trek+route.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="352" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCww9DZzreahMEOcmRUjl6w1ICVTxE1pKtZ0kILxRSntZ2PbTVFxIRCVw5mFXwpzetxM0-ZVB2K8dG5rbMwRaeJQ0yjVjq1j79gOYwTkaE3rzmvN-Z1FTCfXFYG5GfRiP7mH_3/s640/Revised+Jhomolhari+trek+route.jpeg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Our trekking route in blue, plotted from Garmin GPS coordinates. Click on the map for a larger image.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><br /></b>
<b>Day 1</b><br />
<br />
Jet Airways, competent as always, and on time into Delhi . The new Delhi airport continues to impress.<br />
The onward flight into Kathmandu was awesome as always, and after crossing the Ganges the view northwards never fails to impress...I always feel that mounting sense of excitement when you realise that the clouds you thought were on the horizon are in fact the mighty Dhaulagiri and the Annapurnas. <br />
Then descent into Kathmandu, finding our way through a few nascent cumulonimbus clouds and arriving in pleasantly hot sunshine and afternoon temperatures of about 30 degrees. <br />
Group dinner at the Bhanshaghar restaurant near the Royal Singi Hotel. Everest beer and food OK. <br />
<br />
<b>Day 2</b><br />
<br />
Early start to Kathmandu airport with fun and games ensuring we made the first Druk Air flight to Paro, a route very prone to over-booking and still rebounding from a technical delay the previous day. We succeeded, and got the first scheduled flight of the day, eventually departing at 1325, some six hours after we had arrived at the airport. <br />
A flight of just over a hour, observing the summits of Everest, Makulu and Kanchenchunga as we made our way eastwards.<br />
The descent into Paro was an exciting one, flying in a relatively large aircraft, an A319, through narrowing valleys before a couple of tight turns on the final approach to ensure we were lined up for the runway without hitting some nearby mountains. <br />
Check out <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OSRjPezTMOc&feature=related">Paro Landing</a> on YouTube for a flavour of this entertaining approach!<br />
But the scene greeting us was immediately inviting and hugely exciting. The small airport, with buildings constructed in the traditional Bhutanese style, is surrounded by tree covered mountains, and an ancient dzong, now a National Museum, sitting on a bluff over the small town of Paro, reminds us that we are in a land of proud tradition and inestimable beauty. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioEPHgJSwYMtoutNknsIvEblAskI5j29rXyqTzcNLKJMdsmplY-YNari7mdyYcHNTA0Ij8jTp0RXvJnwpVzTDqfymJyNCoSo0MevhPs-WTkbVMSgb9xiHSo48LomgII8KdhU5_/s1600/P1030398.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioEPHgJSwYMtoutNknsIvEblAskI5j29rXyqTzcNLKJMdsmplY-YNari7mdyYcHNTA0Ij8jTp0RXvJnwpVzTDqfymJyNCoSo0MevhPs-WTkbVMSgb9xiHSo48LomgII8KdhU5_/s640/P1030398.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Paro airport</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNSHLOmSark7KApw6o1QfVmYzoGiSEOp_qvsnXrl05GwQEdl_so1AxL9RA4toO2-0K1hRu9l3SCgmynwhlJ6HWIqIAV-6X368b6U5cZhBQOnScWirkothCP9rwjTP35edNTTrM/s1600/P1040441.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNSHLOmSark7KApw6o1QfVmYzoGiSEOp_qvsnXrl05GwQEdl_so1AxL9RA4toO2-0K1hRu9l3SCgmynwhlJ6HWIqIAV-6X368b6U5cZhBQOnScWirkothCP9rwjTP35edNTTrM/s640/P1040441.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
After a short queue to pass through immigration we were greeted by our leader for the trip, dressed in the national costume of Bhutan. And this isn't for show. As we drove the windy road into Paro, passing many small farmsteads, it was obvious that the national dress is almost ubiquitous.<br />
We only had a quick stop in Paro for lunch, good vegetables, rice and local river bass, before stopping for 15 minutes to watch an archery contest, a local match between three teams and involving great skill over a 140m target range using very expensive bows. Outside the archery ground, locals passed by, enjoying a public holiday and groups of young monks were promenading in the fresh afternoon air. And some noisy cicadas reminded us we are now in Asia!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDfbEahCjAs6pXpwnWxSMoQmCY7oH7PVrbCvpLZwDvY_oMBvE3RedSDTf_1Tmco-5XFyN8Kt7cL1NXJ8ObeER5qKNtALv4um2PvoOJB2hzHGafKl-5xoRbocSjT9rfJIa_iMaq/s1600/P1030422.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDfbEahCjAs6pXpwnWxSMoQmCY7oH7PVrbCvpLZwDvY_oMBvE3RedSDTf_1Tmco-5XFyN8Kt7cL1NXJ8ObeER5qKNtALv4um2PvoOJB2hzHGafKl-5xoRbocSjT9rfJIa_iMaq/s640/P1030422.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Local's archery competition in Paro</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Late afternoon we drove through several deep river valleys to reach our overnight stop, the capital city of Thimphu, a 55km drive which showcased this part of Bhutan as an ordered and spiritual country, with prayer flags adorning bridges and hillsides, monasteries and dzongs (old forts), and fields with abundant crops of red rice, which looks rather like barley.<br />
Arriving in the dark, we could see that Thimpu is a much bigger town than Paro, and bustling as it was day one of the ten-day festival called Tshechu, a major festival which celebrates the life of Guru Rinpoche, who introduced Buddhism to Bhutan in the 8th century.<br />
A pleasant meal in our hotel, Peaceful Resort, perched high above the town in the upmarket suburb of Motithang. Very clean and efficient, fast wifi, designed rather like an alpine hotel, with wonderfully friendly staff. A nice dinner, lots of vegetables and river bass again, washed down with the locally brewed Druk 11000, although at 8% abv, somewhat stronger than I would have liked!<br />
<br />
<b>Day 3</b><br />
<br />
A perfectly blue sky greeted us, with wonderful fresh mountain air. A great day beckons as we head for day two of the Tshechu. <br />
Off into Thimphu and we joined the throng of local people heading for the recently built arena next to the Trashi Chhoe Dzong north of the town centre. Thimphu has a population of about 95,000, or around 15% of the country's population. Most seemed to be heading for the arena for this important annual festival. Beautifully dressed in their national costume, the girls and women looking particularly splendid in their brightly coloured finery. This is an event where families come together from all around the region, girls meet boys, matches are made and weddings are conducted. So, you could feel the mounting excitement in the crowds around you. Very orderly crowds, mind you, with very limited policing for the numbers involved, and no noise, no shouting, no unruly behaviour. Nice. <br />
Personally I was tingling with anticipation as this was my first full day in Bhutan and heading for one of their major Buddhist festivals, surrounded by happy smiling people under a clear sky and surrounded by heavily wooded hills in all directions.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6keIuwYqSd9AkITgCspJr2GUjIfowlzEq5uhKdHI8ZYcVnm92e5niI7rNPKHy7hcjysJYKmDqNRkEfo2VDgdVynlnkub8yrFCQVQMl-gEe2KXme_-e4mOjPJqQSvIrzUwKq2w/s1600/IMG_1380.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6keIuwYqSd9AkITgCspJr2GUjIfowlzEq5uhKdHI8ZYcVnm92e5niI7rNPKHy7hcjysJYKmDqNRkEfo2VDgdVynlnkub8yrFCQVQMl-gEe2KXme_-e4mOjPJqQSvIrzUwKq2w/s640/IMG_1380.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Local girls dressed in Bhutan's national costume for the Thimphu Tshechu</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Entering the arena this excitement was only heightened when I saw the vast crowds already enthralled by the balletic movements of the dancers, mainly monks, dressed in the most fantastic costumes for the various dances that would be performed throughout the day, each accompanied by crashing symbols to mark the progress of the dance, occasionally embellished with horns and recitations from one of the lamas.<br />
I sat facing the main monastery attached to the Dzong, and from here you could see the hierarchy of the monks, the chief lama dressed in yellow robes on the third level, being the equivalent of the Dalai Lama in Bhutan. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUEl-6ARNsEq5ZKH_c1CWH4-nw1N0yEUTbk1mgpJud9rP_xYaGvFsFDftf2zw1nh9E2RyHI2sCELqX2LObssV8H4lSmX2CQnuzGqc-S0YmKgwoHjoYK9l9YolDrEmi0R4Lnu11/s1600/P1030522.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUEl-6ARNsEq5ZKH_c1CWH4-nw1N0yEUTbk1mgpJud9rP_xYaGvFsFDftf2zw1nh9E2RyHI2sCELqX2LObssV8H4lSmX2CQnuzGqc-S0YmKgwoHjoYK9l9YolDrEmi0R4Lnu11/s640/P1030522.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Monk dancers at the Thimphu Tshechu</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlzhHSXaKWc848TwtKvNydTfpDN_WK6-nc0f6KQi1Rln2VbRRjWc2E6kvSvDxZkGwTMm-CUhxfP3QknIa0a6aDP6sdzI_BepPVGYfZE8BLo4ozsao16wiQyoaHGsBfmzSw9c_n/s1600/P1030524.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlzhHSXaKWc848TwtKvNydTfpDN_WK6-nc0f6KQi1Rln2VbRRjWc2E6kvSvDxZkGwTMm-CUhxfP3QknIa0a6aDP6sdzI_BepPVGYfZE8BLo4ozsao16wiQyoaHGsBfmzSw9c_n/s640/P1030524.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn1b85Vn04G9Yk-rDYDjlzCAR543KhjPYp8gY-JIiElNQnwT4UM_4XXGoSw2OeYr2s3u0uJIF7X7QujPQMWVE1r5IWlaHsJqhyphenhyphenjoD1ibKxFBLTLHC0NfDE44WDqDb215N44Djy/s1600/P1030532.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn1b85Vn04G9Yk-rDYDjlzCAR543KhjPYp8gY-JIiElNQnwT4UM_4XXGoSw2OeYr2s3u0uJIF7X7QujPQMWVE1r5IWlaHsJqhyphenhyphenjoD1ibKxFBLTLHC0NfDE44WDqDb215N44Djy/s640/P1030532.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">The monastic hierarchy observe the Tshechu dances</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhadLH021OZTIHN04XKmnxkMT-OMmOcyerylIdf_JcH8QlJVlvWFFJGXjuK36_XskHlwzaEAoAOdTTkYRbzVGt4cHxTDDrJiOeWVGhE0E7FBAZsDYTzPz_fHRIps0mZXFRr3KxQ/s1600/P1030543.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhadLH021OZTIHN04XKmnxkMT-OMmOcyerylIdf_JcH8QlJVlvWFFJGXjuK36_XskHlwzaEAoAOdTTkYRbzVGt4cHxTDDrJiOeWVGhE0E7FBAZsDYTzPz_fHRIps0mZXFRr3KxQ/s640/P1030543.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">A pilgrim at the Thimphu Tshechu</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It quickly became very hot, and as you are not allowed to wear any headgear in this arena, I limited my visit to about wo hours - not a good idea to get sunstroke before a trek!<br />
I changed positions around the arena from time to time, and found myself sitting next to one of only three Englishmen allowed to live permanently in Bhutan, Michael Rutland OBE, and currently chairman of the <a href="http://www.bhutansociety.org/">Bhutan Society of the United Kingdom</a>. A very nice chap, immensely knowledgeable and experienced in the ways of this unique country. I was particularly taken with his observation on the nation's concept of 'Gross National Happiness' - 'creating conditions in the country which will make it easier for the people to feel contentment'.<br />
After observing the morning dances, we visited the monastery and inner sections of the Dzong, the oldest parts dating back to 1641.<br />
The Dzong currently houses numerous government administrators and officials of the monastic hierarchy during the summer. They move to Punakha in central Bhutan in the winter to escape the cold. The monastery boasted a fine historical Buddha, Sakyamuni, surrounded by a statue of Rinpoche (Padmasambhava) who introduced Buddhism to Bhutan and other iconic figures who have featured in the development of Buddhism in this country. The monastery itself was the site of the 2008 coronation ceremony for the country's king, Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWCfh93Inbx4S6SsTpjbBDvD4ucAzQd2Dgh9I0dVDntTf2Le16Nfcky1FGeBNRvlBtw49Q7VGyto9KldCGhJQFiibEU74l2G7Ag-vUCq8k0A05Ot6tUeszm2QXEFMpYCE5oBC8/s1600/P1030551.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWCfh93Inbx4S6SsTpjbBDvD4ucAzQd2Dgh9I0dVDntTf2Le16Nfcky1FGeBNRvlBtw49Q7VGyto9KldCGhJQFiibEU74l2G7Ag-vUCq8k0A05Ot6tUeszm2QXEFMpYCE5oBC8/s640/P1030551.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">The monastery within Trashi Chhoe Dzong in Thimphu</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Returning to Thimphu, we took some lunch before wandering the street markets and visiting a giant Buddha statue being constructed on a spur about 300m above the town. It is a gift from people in Hong Kong, is constructed in bronze and stands about 50m high, making it one of the largest Buddhas on Earth.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj9NzibnFrY6LMv-eL0i5eUJZGpkNXMn7rq69V_6MIS0zExa_CoK6gam72YQuvaxV9rq32-ddaY8SxrKZQo-AALCEAl3udhCxGZ2g7BToeGtUt_FgHQttpcHQlUC6IFMZKkQ1s/s1600/P1030575.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj9NzibnFrY6LMv-eL0i5eUJZGpkNXMn7rq69V_6MIS0zExa_CoK6gam72YQuvaxV9rq32-ddaY8SxrKZQo-AALCEAl3udhCxGZ2g7BToeGtUt_FgHQttpcHQlUC6IFMZKkQ1s/s640/P1030575.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLhM0kdSNEe_kYD3FGGhSDni6Z-SG1pVhuRUFm7wkw3Z2ZjMR4CjAEwTZ_T7Ww-Yk1WqexeyvHfxww2sOQ-fFCmGHzz6mmj79lGGVzaeji0jYKXr1hjdVXQ60Cie1w16x2PhXp/s1600/P1040407.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLhM0kdSNEe_kYD3FGGhSDni6Z-SG1pVhuRUFm7wkw3Z2ZjMR4CjAEwTZ_T7Ww-Yk1WqexeyvHfxww2sOQ-fFCmGHzz6mmj79lGGVzaeji0jYKXr1hjdVXQ60Cie1w16x2PhXp/s640/P1040407.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Buddha Dordenma presides over Thimphu</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Good views back to the capital Thimphu, a town now expanding rapidly as people move down from the villages for a taste of urban life. Hmm. Incidentally, Bhutan's main source of income is the exportation of hydroelectric power to India, and this is funding much of the country's infrastructure development.<br />
Towards the end of the afternoon we turned for Paro again, a fairly tortuous journey through long, deep valleys and busier than the day before, eventually reaching our hotel, some 15 minutes beyond the town, after about an hour and a half. <br />
The hotel, Rinchen Ling, was OK, situated at the start of the upper Paro valley. Plenty of dogs barking at night...earplugs to the rescue again.<br />
<br />
<b>Day 4</b><br />
<br />
Our first trekking day, our starting point just 20 minutes drive from the hotel. Most unusually, we were to get a glimpse of our main objective within minutes of leaving the hotel, Jhomolhari at over 7000m giving us our first look at the glaciated pyramidal summit. A wonderful sight at the head of the valley which is to be our trek route for the day. Also a first view of the famous Tiger's Nest monastery above Paro, hanging precipitously among steep cliffs to our east. We will visit this at the end of the trek. <br />
We met up with the trek crew, and pack animals, ponies, donkeys and mules, at Drugyel Dzong, built in 1649 to defend Bhutan against Tibetan invasion, but destroyed by fire in 1951 and now derelict. Our group numbered 16 trekkers, supported by guide Kaysang, 11 crew and 30 pack animals. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcLyz85__2j21DYV-I2tgOy4E2JsNwTFJe_G3gb8zjLiv36EkCV2s1nI27C3B6iLNIaVaDIUVUE4Wn47VT08Y18S_TDGffeBBL29H10wsDq53uwxNee9_Kd30gbJbHxSO5zqGZ/s1600/P1030592.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcLyz85__2j21DYV-I2tgOy4E2JsNwTFJe_G3gb8zjLiv36EkCV2s1nI27C3B6iLNIaVaDIUVUE4Wn47VT08Y18S_TDGffeBBL29H10wsDq53uwxNee9_Kd30gbJbHxSO5zqGZ/s640/P1030592.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Starting the trek from Drogyel Dzong</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFs_ywb6TN7nuU5mCqruX60y3tscy0NB6cKKkGyw_yceeDUHpOfYwIevsXNwvBvd22qht6eeMoF3VfN38L86M0oqsnITAuSjpMbVr7eO4gwIrPlSS0aWtmIwDDAUGB5XZTkWQb/s1600/P1030597.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFs_ywb6TN7nuU5mCqruX60y3tscy0NB6cKKkGyw_yceeDUHpOfYwIevsXNwvBvd22qht6eeMoF3VfN38L86M0oqsnITAuSjpMbVr7eO4gwIrPlSS0aWtmIwDDAUGB5XZTkWQb/s640/P1030597.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">A typical farmstead in the upper Paro valley</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBl6vE0MxCASNjPBM_mOJ7qNAuvCaIG1hRu1T4jKMvKwTji5zCxTqdk7w7OR991qWJzFJF24IeLx1YZCgbKm0YjEBer9ZLju_pldPY64LpCJNF7atvM9eLJbG7seCSzH-qQasP/s1600/P1030606.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBl6vE0MxCASNjPBM_mOJ7qNAuvCaIG1hRu1T4jKMvKwTji5zCxTqdk7w7OR991qWJzFJF24IeLx1YZCgbKm0YjEBer9ZLju_pldPY64LpCJNF7atvM9eLJbG7seCSzH-qQasP/s640/P1030606.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Crossing the Pari Chhu</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdF8uWf6b6kVq6YWwcFwbFe3TsPx60ASXW5iGzQqjNFVE4sA2AIh-Pz0Q5eqTYGLRG7Z_NCJJ3iutsyezTq4myjChyphenhyphenA8-Uu08YNQQwgeyzVdhznk640gsa31dL-yMYBUopxr7b/s1600/P1030671.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdF8uWf6b6kVq6YWwcFwbFe3TsPx60ASXW5iGzQqjNFVE4sA2AIh-Pz0Q5eqTYGLRG7Z_NCJJ3iutsyezTq4myjChyphenhyphenA8-Uu08YNQQwgeyzVdhznk640gsa31dL-yMYBUopxr7b/s640/P1030671.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
An easy path, following the river Paro Chhu, and mainly level in places. Many flowers, blue pine and walnut trees, and we passed through small farmsteads and hamlets. There were a few other trekking parties on the trail, but the congestion only really occurred in the trains of pack animals. Nice scenery along the river, forced on to an elevated and muddy road for a while, before reverting to a more traditional but easy track.<br />
Hills here are heavily wooded, but you know that the higher summits are only just out of view, saving themselves for another day!<br />
We passed through a army checkpoint at the entrance to Jigme Dorji National Park where our trekking permit was inspected, before crossing the river to the west bank and a steeper mud path to our first camp at Shana, next to a military camp. <br />
<br />
Distance travelled today 15km, altitude at start 2665m, end 2850m. Time including lunch 5 hours 20 minutes. <br />
<br />
<b>Day 5</b><br />
<br />
This is to be a long day, our guide's estimate 8-9 hours with stops, and 23km to cover. In the event the group eventually divided into three during the day, and I felt strong despite the rapid increase in altitude and ended with the fast group in just over 7 hours. <br />
The track today continued to follow the river, through thick forest of oak, rhododendron, weeping larch, pine and much hanging lichen in the trees ('old mans beard').<br />
We stayed relatively close to the river all day, and this entailed crossing many side spurs, so the total ascent for the day was much greater as a result. Up and down, up and down...<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5L0ItqOmF9hzZnHOcy7_rZm8Au8JN4ZC7XEzzagfUG9Y6gnzgVuzf7WA1uJrb9kRTcmdDKjdg10sp1SyyKs_Sr8KhVTfAv1Hjpv4ddzqv6DogASZ6ICVessFDGt9rYOumgupg/s1600/P1030715.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5L0ItqOmF9hzZnHOcy7_rZm8Au8JN4ZC7XEzzagfUG9Y6gnzgVuzf7WA1uJrb9kRTcmdDKjdg10sp1SyyKs_Sr8KhVTfAv1Hjpv4ddzqv6DogASZ6ICVessFDGt9rYOumgupg/s640/P1030715.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Paths were muddier than the previous day, and rockier, so there was quite a bit of boulder hopping at times.<br />
In the afternoon, after numerous bridge crossings over the tumultuous flow of this glacial river, the valley started to open out and we were able to get a sense of the higher mountains rising high above us. After a few steeper sections we finally arrived at camp, a spot called Thangthanka, and were soon greeted by a break in the clouds at the head of the valley, revealing the glistening white summit of Jhomolhari, 7315m. Magnificent!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPra3nR5hSdb7tBzR1Lf1svxo6N5H58B0sssw-4A2PbM-UstYrLk2YYO8NbQ5OL_wC7DzwEsdRpDBUt4gnOtqWkrUB9IGKC8BoEsyJdGzl5rfedOcHpvfRms6pEdFhp8LWQNA3/s1600/P1030680.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPra3nR5hSdb7tBzR1Lf1svxo6N5H58B0sssw-4A2PbM-UstYrLk2YYO8NbQ5OL_wC7DzwEsdRpDBUt4gnOtqWkrUB9IGKC8BoEsyJdGzl5rfedOcHpvfRms6pEdFhp8LWQNA3/s640/P1030680.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Jhomolhari from Thangthanka</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We're now at over 3600m, so altitude will start to play a part in our progress from now on, although today I hardly noticed it, despite the pace set by my peers. Once again, you can tell that we're high by the bloated wrappers around the chocolate bars I bought in Delhi, and it's notable that despite still being in a forest clearing, we are now at the height of the mighty Aiguille du Midi, the peak which towers high over Chamonix.<br />
<br />
GPS distance 18.7km, started at 2850m, ended at 3619m. Time (fast group) 7 hours 20 minutes. <br />
<br />
<b>Day 6</b><br />
<br />
An early start with a totally clear view of Jhomolhari and it's icy summit rising from the dark valley in which we had camped. It had been an eventful night, with dogs barking and horses neighing, donkeys he-hawing. So, another night of fractured sleep. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhseqlquAAUOyP1LhxT_JdLB-XtzFYxJYfzyb7MJiVS3FSKKtqEqXPBhSeuJEBsiaE-mkbneAv8-ev7a-2kDNsP6arVHKW3QPANr-ihRn839koUw8xpxo9ZH-yuZKrOgixjwf3i/s1600/P1030696.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhseqlquAAUOyP1LhxT_JdLB-XtzFYxJYfzyb7MJiVS3FSKKtqEqXPBhSeuJEBsiaE-mkbneAv8-ev7a-2kDNsP6arVHKW3QPANr-ihRn839koUw8xpxo9ZH-yuZKrOgixjwf3i/s640/P1030696.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Early morning light on Jhomolhari</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We set off at 0840 and headed into the forest, attractively lit by the low morning light and autumnal colours starting to develop on the deciduous elements. A bit of a steep pull up a bouldery track next to the river, before the gradient ameliorated and we entered beech forest with stands of stunted cypress. Easy walking with fine views.<br />
We stopped for lunch, but soon got chilled as the sun was obscured by cloud, so we moved swiftly on, finally reaching a series of farmsteads just short of the camp. The last settlement, Dangochang, had a small school and health unit.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUkkOEcSw5sdJTuExOdz0U85-rIHEk-wW4nzCgrKTSiBJK9WnbVkyu3OjlfKoCiHPuXelUc0OewmZSn3D04QyNXsk3WV2b6sSHkgkwNGJV5sp3Za1Da1YEEEsEN7t9xFyESfA9/s1600/P1030755.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUkkOEcSw5sdJTuExOdz0U85-rIHEk-wW4nzCgrKTSiBJK9WnbVkyu3OjlfKoCiHPuXelUc0OewmZSn3D04QyNXsk3WV2b6sSHkgkwNGJV5sp3Za1Da1YEEEsEN7t9xFyESfA9/s640/P1030755.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">School at Dangochang</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy7EsUomAhHhScL3kYFw0p9jw3Bq49PwiQN5JUD-wabnklwT0SRhqL5XQIDPSv8Xg8pbbABQAGVrHFDAFPDDvu5vkHXT8ztseVdDd6fXTvQelnOPt0k_-sUr3TBzzLs7heah08/s1600/P1030757.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="576" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy7EsUomAhHhScL3kYFw0p9jw3Bq49PwiQN5JUD-wabnklwT0SRhqL5XQIDPSv8Xg8pbbABQAGVrHFDAFPDDvu5vkHXT8ztseVdDd6fXTvQelnOPt0k_-sUr3TBzzLs7heah08/s640/P1030757.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibmaqwW8jSqIHjUVkHKp0mhFZxwOZG2KeCZRSuoOtQ017W36GP7nv9wT_Wlj7DqH2qrTeTohNcJ8TO_zx58nwIy7GQJpGOo8v1Vjc-wBDhHEa2_hosxay0wX0iIH7JzHqcLcEC/s1600/P1030771.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibmaqwW8jSqIHjUVkHKp0mhFZxwOZG2KeCZRSuoOtQ017W36GP7nv9wT_Wlj7DqH2qrTeTohNcJ8TO_zx58nwIy7GQJpGOo8v1Vjc-wBDhHEa2_hosxay0wX0iIH7JzHqcLcEC/s640/P1030771.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Jhomolhari from 'base camp' at Jangothang</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The final pull up to our camp at Jangothang, through pastures grazed by domesticated yaks was tough - we're now above 4000m and it's a bit more effort at the end of the day.<br />
<br />
GPS distance 13 km, started at 3619m, ended at 4100m. Time: 5 hours 20 minutes.<br />
<br />
<b>Day 7</b><br />
<br />
A disturbed night - yaks grunting and dogs barking.<br />
We had a very early start in order to climb a ridge above the camp in order to get better views of Jhomolhari and see the magnificent Jitchu Drake, 6989m. The ridge was steep and we followed only faint tracks on the ascent, very hard work in the cold morning air on relentlessly rising ground.<br />
Jitchu Drake's steeple like summit soon came into view and it was to taunt us all the way up, but what a fine looking mountain. The maximum altitude we reached was 4550m, by which time the group (and me) had had enough, so after a fun photo stop, we traversed the slopes westwards and were rewarded with a close up view of Jhomolhari, beautifully lit in the morning light, showing off the many hanging glaciers that tumble down the east face - I'm not surprised it's never been climbed from the Bhutan side.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-FEU7Nf7tjEvpGD8qX6l5hox9fwM7Ma58KNxmH_9OchcOMsKj4iViCToaVQDfF9-grqeqKxGVNHEZ8ODWw9tg46Hjki6vx9FvJvQvBwCAQEbFvSQA1VjZtJE49ESjfgQ_LBvL/s1600/P1030782.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-FEU7Nf7tjEvpGD8qX6l5hox9fwM7Ma58KNxmH_9OchcOMsKj4iViCToaVQDfF9-grqeqKxGVNHEZ8ODWw9tg46Hjki6vx9FvJvQvBwCAQEbFvSQA1VjZtJE49ESjfgQ_LBvL/s640/P1030782.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Stumpy with Jitsu Drake in the background</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCd9fQMZURIUAtGLHjlX9TSpgR617Pd1SjL5P3xNOIYjPWL82RoHdiOteU9isw6Xgb0o-muLu4HZNxMTHya0GDqY8_LdOewbqASTNzw09SMyxlyDNrrfLkLfoyisXHRlQA99eQ/s1600/P1030806.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCd9fQMZURIUAtGLHjlX9TSpgR617Pd1SjL5P3xNOIYjPWL82RoHdiOteU9isw6Xgb0o-muLu4HZNxMTHya0GDqY8_LdOewbqASTNzw09SMyxlyDNrrfLkLfoyisXHRlQA99eQ/s640/P1030806.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Looking back to base camp from our acclimatisation walk</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4JDwolbkmcY1ncKqSdtUNMTDr-OVnm0N_J2UPLTbCQDqfAyqRAAlHdaAUpx-KLryJ31YQlR-hdGJ0X6OeNZu_BOz9z5zrfplvjILBICRijxG4z9rjfYJYKjb7co4-WvrCA6Z6/s1600/P1030813.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4JDwolbkmcY1ncKqSdtUNMTDr-OVnm0N_J2UPLTbCQDqfAyqRAAlHdaAUpx-KLryJ31YQlR-hdGJ0X6OeNZu_BOz9z5zrfplvjILBICRijxG4z9rjfYJYKjb7co4-WvrCA6Z6/s640/P1030813.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Jhomolhari base camp</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSozbidDOH1vg78XpqTFl-2Y4hV5ky3GJV586C3lCJcVAAdydYs-OmTto0zR7CWOhx_leYczDNliR8ELvDiTEQWUHodF_owmVEsU8cfhBDiXmKCge7I608AxO1MfMZm7Mnh-tn/s1600/P1030815.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSozbidDOH1vg78XpqTFl-2Y4hV5ky3GJV586C3lCJcVAAdydYs-OmTto0zR7CWOhx_leYczDNliR8ELvDiTEQWUHodF_owmVEsU8cfhBDiXmKCge7I608AxO1MfMZm7Mnh-tn/s640/P1030815.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Portable altitude chamber, also known as a Gamow Bag</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A direct descent brought us swiftly back to camp, unpleasantly steep in places.<br />
Time taken 3 hours, total ascent 450m, distance up and down just 2km, which shows just how steep it was!<br />
A late breakfast and a lazy morning followed, the climax being a warm shower in a rather flimsy tent structure, the 'shower' involving a bucket of hot water and a jug to pour it over yourself! Very hot sunshine today. Felt unwell for a while this morning...probably pushed a bit too hard this morning given the altitude. <br />
A slow lunch followed and then we were off for another acclimatisation walk at 1440, this time to reach a lake about 300m higher on the other side of the valley. Back by about 1715, and feeling quite tired now...<br />
<br />
<b>Day 8</b><br />
<br />
We had a less noisy night, the dogs more passive tonight!<br />
We departed Jangothang at 4100m, and followed the river until we happened upon a stone bridge at the base of the first steep climb of the day, conquered by a steady plod and distracted by close up views of Jitchu Drake's ice clad south face.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs0wlN-tWjbJlCdA-m3sX3MZEUthlakgRHudOv9-O5I19XZZdl5ps-gR2wOLS_NoOAEWGUfK90SBvH9dBA4gONv3cF40IRZMUCRpP1x7qCDGMIpi4lCmkGYxYeyv9oPoFJhwW3/s1600/P1030823.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs0wlN-tWjbJlCdA-m3sX3MZEUthlakgRHudOv9-O5I19XZZdl5ps-gR2wOLS_NoOAEWGUfK90SBvH9dBA4gONv3cF40IRZMUCRpP1x7qCDGMIpi4lCmkGYxYeyv9oPoFJhwW3/s640/P1030823.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Jitsu Drake 6989m</span> </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggVsBIwrYexr4nQo57HocO0O92KRZR-cPN3-p29mYlKhpZnqWnZykhBC_4HG5Mpf-O7tviPZwKVf28uIurylyrFM325W3b9XYuFGiEEr_hzI4P_BHLIHdAuqPzSLoTt0H9-_YU/s1600/P1030833.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggVsBIwrYexr4nQo57HocO0O92KRZR-cPN3-p29mYlKhpZnqWnZykhBC_4HG5Mpf-O7tviPZwKVf28uIurylyrFM325W3b9XYuFGiEEr_hzI4P_BHLIHdAuqPzSLoTt0H9-_YU/s640/P1030833.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Climbing to Nyile La</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfvVIcVRsagwu3IpD0rCJvbhgy5i-usI0Rl8pEeuGdUndIUwl5F4SWWUXBqvKac4Jc752igzfimDLncooFjrQiAXKrbUqulmdaAQkKYHXxCXAIVR5vgZqJTBSCPDw38zOLDirR/s1600/P1030865.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfvVIcVRsagwu3IpD0rCJvbhgy5i-usI0Rl8pEeuGdUndIUwl5F4SWWUXBqvKac4Jc752igzfimDLncooFjrQiAXKrbUqulmdaAQkKYHXxCXAIVR5vgZqJTBSCPDw38zOLDirR/s640/P1030865.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jitsu Drake from the Nyile La 4890m</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgstk-59Ve90yyDmuKzk2WKHj9f4vd4AvTIkGMdXhjb0TzPMv8UzNTn0Hb5hhA-JHiC4ZcbIqqmqhYsnr7kZMfmz9i8DZMw4ArA2jnH590iD9XUOpY9Zgn8EmJ97F6dgXtB8MDg/s1600/P1030885.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgstk-59Ve90yyDmuKzk2WKHj9f4vd4AvTIkGMdXhjb0TzPMv8UzNTn0Hb5hhA-JHiC4ZcbIqqmqhYsnr7kZMfmz9i8DZMw4ArA2jnH590iD9XUOpY9Zgn8EmJ97F6dgXtB8MDg/s640/P1030885.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTHHH0-lYXzP9MEzPebz62N85wiX0xCrmzWhE3e0FgJ9WgEDH1dwp2xUQq2HgnMuc6kV4q-C3e5AJbPxD5xxYgr7KSOap9Jw6yPOlqJN_055BlhH0m3TrWtFKMRgAzMWUc9TB9/s1600/IMG_1726.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTHHH0-lYXzP9MEzPebz62N85wiX0xCrmzWhE3e0FgJ9WgEDH1dwp2xUQq2HgnMuc6kV4q-C3e5AJbPxD5xxYgr7KSOap9Jw6yPOlqJN_055BlhH0m3TrWtFKMRgAzMWUc9TB9/s640/IMG_1726.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">A reflective Stumpy looking towards Tsheri Kang 6526m</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxHVNnDBYCCRBk8ciQtCSrioEB5p_3gLkwkljY-kAYIs1k_84lroUeTsaluIEoBp3eMm6rtVA-dkPCvcRX64LjN-W9wz29PhmXt1BQ1pmcHtyGkWU8ymKClcKeWUrd_0Vjwz7P/s1600/P1030920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxHVNnDBYCCRBk8ciQtCSrioEB5p_3gLkwkljY-kAYIs1k_84lroUeTsaluIEoBp3eMm6rtVA-dkPCvcRX64LjN-W9wz29PhmXt1BQ1pmcHtyGkWU8ymKClcKeWUrd_0Vjwz7P/s640/P1030920.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Yaks traversing the Nyile La</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3W4gqf8gkL2yjuTgXwVhxWmDuR0_x81ZdwViN8tLw3z8KS8dAOg8D0oEWRjK_1rP-cb4VQBRF7ovcm-fEPT5-DG0e9Lf7BuzTFdiFtXQffamY0pVEbZG_t45N2YJaxOPGulG2/s1600/P1030928.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3W4gqf8gkL2yjuTgXwVhxWmDuR0_x81ZdwViN8tLw3z8KS8dAOg8D0oEWRjK_1rP-cb4VQBRF7ovcm-fEPT5-DG0e9Lf7BuzTFdiFtXQffamY0pVEbZG_t45N2YJaxOPGulG2/s640/P1030928.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
There were many other groups on the same trail as us today, most going further east towards Laya and other regions.<br />
We lost the view temporarily as we slowly gained altitude along a long valley, which ultimately opened up at the end to reveal a wide vista, with winding river in the bottom populated by blue sheep grazing in the near distance. Turning left we then progressed across steeper ground to reach the base of the final ascent section of the first big pass of the trek, taking some tea before we stretched our lungs once again. <br />
On reaching the pass of Nyile La at 4890m, we were rewarded with a magnificent view of Jitsu Drake's south and east faces, Tsheri Kang 6526m, and distant views of Mount Gangcheta or Great Tiger Mountain. Awesome, this is what I'm in the Bhutan Himalaya to see. <br />
A short steep descent on scree took us to our lunch spot, entertained by yaks making easy meat of the descent we had just come down. Then the long grind downhill starts...a relatively steep traversing track on loose scree, but manageable, before crossing the river and commencing a long high traverse towards Lingshi. A beautiful path, easily trod, and wonderful colours on both sides of the valley, with huge banks of rhododendron bushes amidst the autumnal colours of the many varieties of vegetation hugging the steep slopes. Then Lingshi Dzong appeared in the distance, standing white and resplendent in the afternoon light. And, behind us, another view of Jitchu Drake's towering east face, now catching the usual afternoon cloud build up and a close up of Tsheri Lang's south face.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuasTjvkLS5l6GBpl54hUmRbNzoJbvVJKOTE9p_z4fF_GB58YmTp4qs0rxY8wxQ5F3BAp4GIFUcH6lz57ra1n3kL67I_Gr-HnDykjerl7lWZ_JmYvZkgkLj6gOLXNyxMKiOaln/s1600/P1030940.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuasTjvkLS5l6GBpl54hUmRbNzoJbvVJKOTE9p_z4fF_GB58YmTp4qs0rxY8wxQ5F3BAp4GIFUcH6lz57ra1n3kL67I_Gr-HnDykjerl7lWZ_JmYvZkgkLj6gOLXNyxMKiOaln/s640/P1030940.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">Descent from Nyile La</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_N7lXcxFWhdZtWQ6XQCoRLQ7gWw4LrlLCCBuQwU62N-OpRSATXmdLzY-oD0t99S1O_NofvvltRllrXGDoKZWem22vENgaXjb5dYN6YygSA_1zTjgXySG9-2T5wweaam1yoRrL/s1600/P1030963.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_N7lXcxFWhdZtWQ6XQCoRLQ7gWw4LrlLCCBuQwU62N-OpRSATXmdLzY-oD0t99S1O_NofvvltRllrXGDoKZWem22vENgaXjb5dYN6YygSA_1zTjgXySG9-2T5wweaam1yoRrL/s640/P1030963.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Lingshi Dzong</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
Here our route takes a different track to the usual Jhomolhari circuit as summer monsoon rains have destroyed a number of bridges on the normal route. So we descended an easy ridge from our viewpoint and then had fun crossing a river below another small army checkpoint. Wet feet for some!<br />
Then a short, very steep descent before a final tramp through boggy woodland to our remote camp site in the valley bottom. No other groups with us tonight, and hopefully no barking dogs this time...<br />
<br />
GPS distance travelled 16.7km, about 9 hours.<br />
<br />
<b>Day 9</b><br />
<br />
A good night's sleep was had...no dogs, no horses, no yaks. A cold night though, with heavier frost on the outside of the tent this morning and greater levels of condensation inside the tent, making the down sleeping bag a little damp and therefore less effective. <br />
An early start again as we have a high pass to cross and a very long descent afterwards. The start of the day was a long valley plod, thankfully getting into the sun after about half an hour and with good views back to Lingshi Dzong. We gained some height and then crossed a river, a bit tricky on slippery rocks. We took a rest break whilst we watched a herd of wild blue sheep below us. <br />
Then a long haul up into a side valley, a level section, then a final steep pull up a rocky path to the top of today's pass, the Yale La, at 4950m.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqeZrsB8KOVXKM0JzrascwAZlyfrFPaIG4jv4s1GOWs2XVCaB1qCG3wJrHeiwEqhbJkuE621X9isYzBIMdLSn8Nue4xIeO1UXo4OcFuYrLyHYa_KgeRGDVN7txZ3tNSW0uNx5a/s1600/P1040017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqeZrsB8KOVXKM0JzrascwAZlyfrFPaIG4jv4s1GOWs2XVCaB1qCG3wJrHeiwEqhbJkuE621X9isYzBIMdLSn8Nue4xIeO1UXo4OcFuYrLyHYa_KgeRGDVN7txZ3tNSW0uNx5a/s640/P1040017.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yale La 4950m</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTtM1MffBS52ueAxU9aGlfB23bK6Ptk8jZU8l0ghdhUzffIB9Bj7y27tMBuquovSWNMXocnHsFW611vAheJDE22CzXL3uNBeRsWqV5H1GY-HVWZ41JSPs2mqghkqzNKQDoVWz7/s1600/P1040036.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTtM1MffBS52ueAxU9aGlfB23bK6Ptk8jZU8l0ghdhUzffIB9Bj7y27tMBuquovSWNMXocnHsFW611vAheJDE22CzXL3uNBeRsWqV5H1GY-HVWZ41JSPs2mqghkqzNKQDoVWz7/s640/P1040036.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
A great viewpoint, with the skyline to the north dominated by Jhomolhari, Jitsu Drake and Tsheri Lang, and new vistas to the south. As today was regarded as 'auspicious' we unfurled a long prayer flag that had been blessed by a lama in Paro before we set off.<br />
An easy descent to a lunch spot just below the col, then a long easy descent down one hanging valley into a longer valley. Easy walking, but a long plod after a hard morning. Wonderful colours on the slopes as we reached lower elevations at around 4100m. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy6UqQlScfTy0rlUUwu_oY4wjTep6gdsTuGHAnSp1_v9_O77-wfKTY4MAtqIcDXzGvF_y7enWzWAiMVebYbVWfb5uPjm7HS8f80ilFiffuYqxpG4tIv7tBXuvYJPxetnzxpDYv/s1600/P1040052.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy6UqQlScfTy0rlUUwu_oY4wjTep6gdsTuGHAnSp1_v9_O77-wfKTY4MAtqIcDXzGvF_y7enWzWAiMVebYbVWfb5uPjm7HS8f80ilFiffuYqxpG4tIv7tBXuvYJPxetnzxpDYv/s640/P1040052.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Superb autumn colours on the descent route from Yala La</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi76sMnDo4WHcIjqB0bJuTGq_bXXOMyMsJrcvf1Nkojnvirphhvpxb0uF4SVnul0jkEBxhY3bdOnQ9JvilYAj6_BjrOb8appBDA4alsbaaRWa8WLlKepLVgF6yrFo5-bN7Z5XLR/s1600/P1040055.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi76sMnDo4WHcIjqB0bJuTGq_bXXOMyMsJrcvf1Nkojnvirphhvpxb0uF4SVnul0jkEBxhY3bdOnQ9JvilYAj6_BjrOb8appBDA4alsbaaRWa8WLlKepLVgF6yrFo5-bN7Z5XLR/s640/P1040055.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd8vdwlw8jRMb80xSkKjJmBSeezXjcdWFn8-GetTrDyGZgTrrk4D9MgTcaQLGngO89D-sy_rO5W4XTV1vc5MdyUFRCy-gqqyLL9WoVZ5FnrbE0yzNB24jHhI5LAyGjmqrvvqAs/s1600/P1040058.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd8vdwlw8jRMb80xSkKjJmBSeezXjcdWFn8-GetTrDyGZgTrrk4D9MgTcaQLGngO89D-sy_rO5W4XTV1vc5MdyUFRCy-gqqyLL9WoVZ5FnrbE0yzNB24jHhI5LAyGjmqrvvqAs/s640/P1040058.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Then, a short climb into a new valley, and eventually reaching our camp at Walathang 4180m, above Shodu on the usual route back to Thimphu. A nice camp, high above the river, and facing attractive woodland opposite. We are now on a long detour from the normal trail back to Thimphu as a heavy monsoon this year destroyed four key bridges which have yet to be repaired. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi867uewuPlWJa2L5jNnQDZ0l7GFN-PllshjwR3093w9YRLU0af1crpnfRyk2Rhhedr3sf3N2ny2hG25ZFzjWzDmY6BN63G05HSCZwUUMDUPoZUnB9Yur1sbzcCt94P1_fW-bw4/s1600/P1040065.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi867uewuPlWJa2L5jNnQDZ0l7GFN-PllshjwR3093w9YRLU0af1crpnfRyk2Rhhedr3sf3N2ny2hG25ZFzjWzDmY6BN63G05HSCZwUUMDUPoZUnB9Yur1sbzcCt94P1_fW-bw4/s640/P1040065.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
GPS distance 18.4km, time about 8.5 hours albeit with some very long stops for slower members of the team.<br />
<br />
<b>Day 10</b><br />
<br />
A cold morning, with heavier frost on the tents today. A peaceful night, only disturbed by a rock under my sleeping position!<br />
A nicely located campsite with blue skies ahead bode well for the day, except for a little light cloud building up in the distance.<br />
Another early start, heading up the valley we were camping in, and getting into the sun after 30 minutes' solid walking. The valley, of course, steepened and we could see our objective this morning, the Ledi La, a pass at 4770m (4702m on some maps), rearing up in front of us. This, naturally, proved to be a false promise, as we discovered after climbing two false summits due to the nature of the slope. Eventually, after a final steep pull, we reached the pass with extensive views all around, but no snow capped peaks to see today as the cloud base was starting to fall.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-1rHGRy-_fsrzPooNDANXMu_psFSSdFWbc9Kky_MptUDYIcUT3upEoHLftuaOHg_RuJURqPlxBHy4U6n5iURJ_L1CCCK0Wrr7KM8ca-ieLzBNB0hDXAn7OKCyLJqkh1Uf720z/s1600/P1040099.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-1rHGRy-_fsrzPooNDANXMu_psFSSdFWbc9Kky_MptUDYIcUT3upEoHLftuaOHg_RuJURqPlxBHy4U6n5iURJ_L1CCCK0Wrr7KM8ca-ieLzBNB0hDXAn7OKCyLJqkh1Uf720z/s640/P1040099.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
A lunch just below the col, then an initially easy slope, steepening in places, before another long valley plod and then a very steep and exposed section through a narrow rock defile brought us into our camp valley for the night. Once again, descending brought us to more vegetated slopes, juniper interspersed with yellow and red leaves on various deciduous trees. A few km before the camp, a pleasant final section of the path brought us down past yak herder encampments, through herds of docile yaks (thankfully scared of humans despite their bulk), and down to our camp right next to a river at 3990m, the lowest we've been for days. We're now at Sharidra camp.<br />
We've seen no other groups all day: we are one of very few trekking groups to have travelled this way and it was certainly new to our leader too. <br />
<br />
Just over 14km, 7 hours with loads of stops. <br />
<br />
<b>Day 11</b><br />
<br />
A difficult day right from the start. I slept badly, the river no more than 5m from my tent and a leaking thermarest, so I was not too happy to see the clouds surrounding the camp site, suggesting a big change in the weather was imminent. <br />
We set off downhill today, dropping a couple of hundred metres on an easy path down through pleasant vegetation, but the challenges of the day really started when we took a very minor track off down to the river, itself composed of loose slate, to a very narrow bridge over a raging river below.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVPqmfYb1vlfEKZOnVDsrGFInN6qMyVDog0XYWKtBjiQDv2JZby4gmiLqs2FpXe3FmmiasQ1fRl1opW-kHAuKt02Bif3XAyBAVBnAAwh8XqsQFIov8IarH4RwrX1mcNXPMQvIq/s1600/P1040117.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVPqmfYb1vlfEKZOnVDsrGFInN6qMyVDog0XYWKtBjiQDv2JZby4gmiLqs2FpXe3FmmiasQ1fRl1opW-kHAuKt02Bif3XAyBAVBnAAwh8XqsQFIov8IarH4RwrX1mcNXPMQvIq/s640/P1040117.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUhtzyGsVhJIOLVZfkPM97JfOq63q404Jml13XJEjP1dEb5r8Wuc5jWOjNUvqMMcB1AUgpsYl9t6tQSt2kxlEG2Zxa4quFDtQcYVekIK_uQimsIg0HOBa8fqPxI-fgTwwqtxXQ/s1600/P1040119.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUhtzyGsVhJIOLVZfkPM97JfOq63q404Jml13XJEjP1dEb5r8Wuc5jWOjNUvqMMcB1AUgpsYl9t6tQSt2kxlEG2Zxa4quFDtQcYVekIK_uQimsIg0HOBa8fqPxI-fgTwwqtxXQ/s640/P1040119.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">A tricky day's walking ahead!</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This was alright in itself, but the path we then took to access another valley was heavily overgrown, with myriad ups and downs and very slippery in places. Some big ascents and descents all morning, and after crossing a wide river, we entered a scree filled gully, which took us to an amphitheatre and time for a rest break. Clouds were starting to build now and we'd already had a light shower.<br />
Continuing onwards, we ascended higher and had a quick lunch in decreasing temperatures close to a couple of lakes.<br />
Then a long slog in a chilly wind with light rain, through confusing country covered in rhododendrons before reaching a dramatic pass, Yeoso La, at 4444m. It was immersed in cloud, so we didn't hang around to start the very precipitous descent, a drop of some 150m in one go, albeit on a rocky but stable path.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0rGb92DxnGmnw7oMhoc7Tv9kpZhdmcfl1CgqnYkHzaK4XKNNrQ83PSMCOpvcOuQX1DwMdcnbojv3Yit_uYZOdBYA_g-lXi_5ZQyzniGUQjGgSnZBtMSM9cpKDdS4S12XTgbEE/s1600/P1040151.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0rGb92DxnGmnw7oMhoc7Tv9kpZhdmcfl1CgqnYkHzaK4XKNNrQ83PSMCOpvcOuQX1DwMdcnbojv3Yit_uYZOdBYA_g-lXi_5ZQyzniGUQjGgSnZBtMSM9cpKDdS4S12XTgbEE/s640/P1040151.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Descent from Yeoso La</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
One of our number had injured a knee in the earlier forest section, and our guide impressively carried her down this on his back, even jogging down in places!<br />
Then a further descent on a narrow contouring path, again entering complex country covered in rhododendron bushes, passing some yaks being herded by a young lad, and then finally across boggy, rocky ground to a very remote campsite located at Rangthangdra, at 4176m.<br />
A grey day overall, depressing weather, and difficult terrain. A testing day for all.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSk9WaqaWWin4RGDVCoG-4xUpVcWtPzl-euwKrDPjds3CPAGORasb6LfzsDIf7nQ3NFSE-vEmSEsfg-689qAgjgZqrq6xMcdASeNbfz4ZH2zud0Z3Be5XdfmjHOoy8Ywgw5QQW/s1600/P1040166.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSk9WaqaWWin4RGDVCoG-4xUpVcWtPzl-euwKrDPjds3CPAGORasb6LfzsDIf7nQ3NFSE-vEmSEsfg-689qAgjgZqrq6xMcdASeNbfz4ZH2zud0Z3Be5XdfmjHOoy8Ywgw5QQW/s640/P1040166.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
GPS distance 13.8km, 8 hours, total ascent 752m to end up at the same altitude!<br />
<br />
<b>Day 12</b><br />
<br />
What a difference a day makes! The omens for today were good, blue skies appearing above the early morning cloud hugging the mountains around us at this elevation, and an all together different feel to yesterday. Having said that, it was another disturbed night, the tent pitched on undulating and sloping ground, and horses munching all night (one with a bell around it's neck) close to the tents.<br />
We set off at 0730 again and within 90 minutes were crossing Dungtsho La, a pass at the head of the valley at approx. 4400m. The clouds were very atmospheric up here and we then descended a steep but safe trail to access a contouring path that brought us wonderful views over a number of pretty lakes in the vicinity, one of which is known as Dungtsho Cho. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1oHVYOlmsPk7gG5nv1fAahGU5eUhr3jrlhjz7VBEf9S8ZsR1D7z1kXP8rZnBF0VD0IbyW_kRtNaJGASZbkTs8rBz35f0VDdjy5qR6i5jtW-LYqvgdUzn1YUOx1wy-aa0paJc6/s1600/P1040209.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1oHVYOlmsPk7gG5nv1fAahGU5eUhr3jrlhjz7VBEf9S8ZsR1D7z1kXP8rZnBF0VD0IbyW_kRtNaJGASZbkTs8rBz35f0VDdjy5qR6i5jtW-LYqvgdUzn1YUOx1wy-aa0paJc6/s640/P1040209.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">The HOGs - Himalayan Old Gits - plodders all!</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMu0Z77hnOZlzoswHwmL4XTyuA84gK36kZnyd5q4desxEASzBoOdTaz7yoK6Duo7i55sXd7HaEZ4eghR_IMSO4J90qUm8WDn0pM0VKoUrIvSebH38-ZgU_jpO5LWygyApOf0UR/s1600/P1040234.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMu0Z77hnOZlzoswHwmL4XTyuA84gK36kZnyd5q4desxEASzBoOdTaz7yoK6Duo7i55sXd7HaEZ4eghR_IMSO4J90qUm8WDn0pM0VKoUrIvSebH38-ZgU_jpO5LWygyApOf0UR/s640/P1040234.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Descent from Dungtsho Cho</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Ysu8CFBysUnfPMLlE5_eJHHIUIqpNx19AF0Jk1nnIITABSJNv0aIQkcwDyyD9IBNY6HpvTC7J5QP015FoPGIemNj3qkvtI1MusJ-AR1qRIyCXYwUSxvktqqQDTfWmQDwM4i0/s1600/P1040247.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Ysu8CFBysUnfPMLlE5_eJHHIUIqpNx19AF0Jk1nnIITABSJNv0aIQkcwDyyD9IBNY6HpvTC7J5QP015FoPGIemNj3qkvtI1MusJ-AR1qRIyCXYwUSxvktqqQDTfWmQDwM4i0/s640/P1040247.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">View to our final camp at Phajoding above Thimphu</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Very attractive undulating paths took us further south west in the direction of Thimphu, eventually joining up with the more popular Druk path which connects Paro and Thimphu over five days, retaining our altitude at around 4100m all day. A final pass, Labana La, at about 4233m, took us on to a nice high level traversing path, eventually reaching a mass of flags at a superb viewpoint, Phume La at 4095m, looking down to Thimphu, some 1800m below. From here, looking back northwest there is an old sky burial site on the side of a nearby hill.<br />
Our campsite, was about 150-200m below this viewpoint, and a steep track swiftly brought us down to our final camp on the trek, a nice flat setting called Phajoding at 3870m. <br />
Phajoding sits next to a monastery, founded in the 13th century by Togden Pajo, a Tibetan yogi looking for a meditation site. Most of the buildings now date from the 18th century, and include lhakgangs/gompas, monk quarters and meditation centres. <br />
One of the best day's walking I've had in years...<br />
We had quite a jolly dinner for our last night camping, with music relayed from the monastery above just as we had finished eating - very atmospheric under a clear sky revealing millions of stars. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfzFp-boLeI5wxU1L0huTKzA5HKMMEh1J9_RBMlQIvk-8lNS4TFC1VlxyG39hY6Ri2k8WjddZLRtf8_yqqgmCB55ZtvfFkWV7utz6XQ3G2BZEUUd_4Rypbk2PLNSctnpuEkGjG/s1600/P1040285.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfzFp-boLeI5wxU1L0huTKzA5HKMMEh1J9_RBMlQIvk-8lNS4TFC1VlxyG39hY6Ri2k8WjddZLRtf8_yqqgmCB55ZtvfFkWV7utz6XQ3G2BZEUUd_4Rypbk2PLNSctnpuEkGjG/s640/P1040285.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Last night in the mess tent, Phajoding</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
GPS distance 11.7km, highest pass 4406m, second one 4233m, total ascent today 492m<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<b>Day 13</b><br />
<br />
We awoke to a hard frost and clear blue sky, with clouds filling the valleys below us. Superb. And then, just to top it all, the monks in the monastery above us started to play their horns as part of their regular daily ritual. A perfect way to start the day.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUeNfgRQzFDT3PIbyfHDxFKzDjFGRqgjEuKS22lSSRHIMyR3qfdE6qV1Bbz2nKxyw6BacTDbmi82E9CJrnKJt2gjhFTOqMxJfI5BA9MI-H4QzXDfySdxGnQWwVw-aO0MoGmyMw/s1600/P1040305.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUeNfgRQzFDT3PIbyfHDxFKzDjFGRqgjEuKS22lSSRHIMyR3qfdE6qV1Bbz2nKxyw6BacTDbmi82E9CJrnKJt2gjhFTOqMxJfI5BA9MI-H4QzXDfySdxGnQWwVw-aO0MoGmyMw/s640/P1040305.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil1x83y4kX36iA6uT0fD2aqCcxweH31xp0cr-c_mEQXos9xFJDqJN1yGWQ_48iuIKPkBcFlmnwxH8qI1YeGf8orDK11jlhc32F7Ua6tVbMMRAqb_WM4jm9xADcStXXLLLcs9AO/s1600/P1040316.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil1x83y4kX36iA6uT0fD2aqCcxweH31xp0cr-c_mEQXos9xFJDqJN1yGWQ_48iuIKPkBcFlmnwxH8qI1YeGf8orDK11jlhc32F7Ua6tVbMMRAqb_WM4jm9xADcStXXLLLcs9AO/s640/P1040316.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Gents of the team display beards grown during the trek!</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Despite the frost, we were in full view of the sun and we had breakfast outside for the first time, very pleasant.<br />
Our final walk involved 1000m of descent to a road head above Thimphu, a good path most of the way and the journey broken by a visit to a small teaching monastery (Jampa Lhakhang) about 100m below the camp site. We watched young monks reciting their daily prayer to Manjushri, Bodhisattva of Wisdom, delivered in classic Tibetan, and their teacher then explaining something of the Buddhist 'wheel of life' in native Bhutanese (the language is called Dzongkha). Hard work for these young lads. Unfortunately, the monastery was damaged by a recent earthquake and many members of our group were happy to leave some funds to help with repairs.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSCCra4T73FLVu9-a5TBA66-sU1Q7tcNFWxKZnXlrnJ0hHD6UO5IIPplCnbvfaaqzdLa-OAUJ0dmOeOki6DfTt35H5XhERo0eSUj6k7oYTQgnwVF7XTrTVHeW5jF-AxO1FJbM9/s1600/P1040319.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSCCra4T73FLVu9-a5TBA66-sU1Q7tcNFWxKZnXlrnJ0hHD6UO5IIPplCnbvfaaqzdLa-OAUJ0dmOeOki6DfTt35H5XhERo0eSUj6k7oYTQgnwVF7XTrTVHeW5jF-AxO1FJbM9/s640/P1040319.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Jampa Lhakhang</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The descent continued, with the path steepening in places as it led us unremittingly down through pine, spruce and firs in abundance, not a path I would want to descend in the wet as it was very clayey in places.<br />
When we finally emerged at the bottom of the path, there was a small surprise awaiting us, a table festooned with soft drinks and cakes, and each of us was presented with the traditional silk scarf as we arrived. A nice gesture. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuBmIWphC9dJr-hR1OA2Ev_ek_Cv9ByUpDbzbxdEUSUGBlVbPLq2-SPnw750lnWTWqYUl1J3TvmRE5KwWHAipcVsUociv3V1b90EgbDPav2bvKO0dRfSvQqFSICKvIHME4B05t/s1600/P1040338.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuBmIWphC9dJr-hR1OA2Ev_ek_Cv9ByUpDbzbxdEUSUGBlVbPLq2-SPnw750lnWTWqYUl1J3TvmRE5KwWHAipcVsUociv3V1b90EgbDPav2bvKO0dRfSvQqFSICKvIHME4B05t/s640/P1040338.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Stumpy gives thanks to the trekking crew</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
When we were all assembled, and after the trekking crew had loaded our luggage on to the waiting bus, it was then my duty (surprise, surprise) to thank the trekking crew and present them with gratuities. A pleasant task, as we'd come to enjoy travelling with these guys over the last ten days: two cooks, four general helpers and five horse men, the latter particularly noteworthy for the gentle way they had managed the thirty horses we had used to transport everything for the trek.<br />
Quickly down to civilisation again, and into the centrally located Hotel Pedling. A shower, a good lunch (and a couple of beers..), before a quick visit to the Textile Museum and some shopping.<br />
At dinner we were joined by the managing director of the tour operator who had organised everything for us in Bhutan, Karma Khorko.<br />
A good night's sleep was had, well almost...Thimphu is afflicted by large packs of dogs which roam the streets barking continuously...back to ear plugs again!<br />
<br />
<b>Day 14</b><br />
<br />
Back to the classic tourist trail today, first visiting the National Memorial Chorten, a Tibetan style structure built in 1974 as a memorial to the third king, and a place of daily worship for many of Thimphu's older citizens. Many were circumnavigating the stupa with prayer wheels and beads, and a few prostrating too. Some aged folks spend time rotating large prayer wheels at the entrance. Monks were seen chanting prayers for someone recently deceased in a nearby temple. Very atmospheric indeed. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs00gHPpLH7Q-jh1XnpH1LC7c0WiKVnF5J2eauhccVfPyhNKoGZ8HbD39IklPWZIEatouqJODm96qERa_VNeFIaT-lyeglVbosbRS0w-B9-gmb3NfZMkCEAl7yIdHIBwRZ1Zay/s1600/P1040356.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs00gHPpLH7Q-jh1XnpH1LC7c0WiKVnF5J2eauhccVfPyhNKoGZ8HbD39IklPWZIEatouqJODm96qERa_VNeFIaT-lyeglVbosbRS0w-B9-gmb3NfZMkCEAl7yIdHIBwRZ1Zay/s640/P1040356.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">National Memorial Chorten, Thimphu</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfUzQFlXXwuOPUT05UPrmYnaARhL5eDgRQCJzfzKlRP1rsmoo3hKoa7klNphR__tZYILFHZNnrDALb_w9o7PJwk_p7eibdSoFhFk7lyajXXAhuPHKQh4AvSxFeHuXfK290Xd4X/s1600/P1040375.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfUzQFlXXwuOPUT05UPrmYnaARhL5eDgRQCJzfzKlRP1rsmoo3hKoa7klNphR__tZYILFHZNnrDALb_w9o7PJwk_p7eibdSoFhFk7lyajXXAhuPHKQh4AvSxFeHuXfK290Xd4X/s640/P1040375.jpg" width="457" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn6G_4MpDG2zExAG9eJLTACIvOW6ot0_-kEalqW360X5g8ZxdMnFzP_YRw_juBPZ8G-irp-ifWynIz_LB7_SeUzvshUmk5eBUqJG5lsrXfBc2KaGHq2mcXRplOyYZBsHMvYBuC/s1600/P1040383.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn6G_4MpDG2zExAG9eJLTACIvOW6ot0_-kEalqW360X5g8ZxdMnFzP_YRw_juBPZ8G-irp-ifWynIz_LB7_SeUzvshUmk5eBUqJG5lsrXfBc2KaGHq2mcXRplOyYZBsHMvYBuC/s640/P1040383.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
Next we paid a quick visit to the Motithang Takin Reserve, a small zoo housing Bhutan's national animal, the takin, a cross somewhat akin to a gnu and a bison. Small red barking deer were also seen. A couple of weavers had set up stools nearby, and a purchase of cotton and raw silk scarves made.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitfWYQcQ4P6ppjsu_xvHqVcUFUIdxAZGFoSWMbFq_OzXCDF3brdsHc8t5QicHCnAPlHCNwaETp5mtGxLtYqMwdg4uKh5r17diuAucd0OBrPap9xpgiV8KULqe_jmgoXOhOyPNa/s1600/P1040391.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitfWYQcQ4P6ppjsu_xvHqVcUFUIdxAZGFoSWMbFq_OzXCDF3brdsHc8t5QicHCnAPlHCNwaETp5mtGxLtYqMwdg4uKh5r17diuAucd0OBrPap9xpgiV8KULqe_jmgoXOhOyPNa/s640/P1040391.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">A young takin, Bhutan's national animal</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Our journey took us to an excellent viewpoint over Thimphu and the huge Trashi Chhoe Dzong, the site of the Thimphu Tshechu festival before our trek, and the nearby parliamentary building. Then a quick visit to the Zilukha Nunnery, where we watched nuns in their daily prayers in a small chapel dedicated to Thangtong Gyelpo, a Tibetan sage who found iron ore in Bhutan.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3-WBYHHu34RQDTHDZaj0poySweErzLkVWGkAVwC2cgYL367m0Xp7uK8_2B2PZyaEp-apSCXEsOZwanrTZ6ayGE5jrbRNnwyyVMdvpehCrNQ3VqoyOsrZ7JbtpAk5GQSiNXaCq/s1600/P1040402.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3-WBYHHu34RQDTHDZaj0poySweErzLkVWGkAVwC2cgYL367m0Xp7uK8_2B2PZyaEp-apSCXEsOZwanrTZ6ayGE5jrbRNnwyyVMdvpehCrNQ3VqoyOsrZ7JbtpAk5GQSiNXaCq/s640/P1040402.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Trashi Chhoe Dzong, Thimphu</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKCQGp1GKemXSHbg7bp-BPtR5-toBO5rmg_s2S7Rv76NdU6iZt6pyIVyBQqI7JPd6BYJu1s3OLw9wmYaTECvKrPEpHsQqJ9sEzXVyGDncT87NZQ81_5QUBe3LQ5NyEspQyl_w_/s1600/P1040423.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKCQGp1GKemXSHbg7bp-BPtR5-toBO5rmg_s2S7Rv76NdU6iZt6pyIVyBQqI7JPd6BYJu1s3OLw9wmYaTECvKrPEpHsQqJ9sEzXVyGDncT87NZQ81_5QUBe3LQ5NyEspQyl_w_/s640/P1040423.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Students studying sculpture at the National Institute of Zorig Chusum</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Continuing on the well worn trail, our next stop was the National Institute for Zorig Chusum, which provides 4-6 year vocational courses for students in Bhutan's thirteen traditional arts, including sculpture, painting, wood carving and embroidery. Some excellent work was seen, mainly in the creation of classic Buddhist iconography, and nearby shops sold some of the work at reasonable prices.<br />
Our final visit was to the National Library, established in 1974 to preserve ancient Dzongkha and Tibetan texts. Sited in a beautiful building, it is also home to the world's largest book, a pictorial study of Bhutan. Some fine old historical photos also adorn the walls. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1VYsOK-AxP8v7cRslnltS7KxwpKqFTZw9Cz6tFcB-BMB0agxRDbXoTvtgV8JwE4NAwaMgY6jccZLZvxjEHgqzpmwo0-BemoRniyU2wBUZeLESY4A8P9Pe7axzKnwP3TSBrx7s/s1600/P1040433.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1VYsOK-AxP8v7cRslnltS7KxwpKqFTZw9Cz6tFcB-BMB0agxRDbXoTvtgV8JwE4NAwaMgY6jccZLZvxjEHgqzpmwo0-BemoRniyU2wBUZeLESY4A8P9Pe7axzKnwP3TSBrx7s/s640/P1040433.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">National Library, Thimphu</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A quick lunch in central Thimphu, then a journey back to Paro to re-base ourselves for tomorrow's visit to the famous Tiger's Nest Monastery and to see the newly wed King and Queen who will be meeting their subjects as part of their continuing wedding celebrations (there's some great pictures of the wedding at <a href="http://t.co/kQb1QdDs">http://t.co/kQb1QdDs</a>). We had planned to visit the Dzong overlooking Paro, but this was off limits due to the impending royal visit, so we spent an hour or so wandering the colourful main street of Paro, resplendent in flags and banners illuminated in the low afternoon sun, before heading on to our hotel, the Rinchin Ling for the last two nights in Bhutan. A comfortable night with no dog distractions!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHk1O0tJZ4MX4c-ftqHfMON7XqKn8DLg4rf0Ub8jcgXOok5du96BAFhVuVRl4DWeTzganjW7xyr2Q9aUX8-Zj61qwT0bu_An84RSdPZCYy-vBbwTGWqxS5o7cY0K32xvYuTYIa/s1600/P1040446.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHk1O0tJZ4MX4c-ftqHfMON7XqKn8DLg4rf0Ub8jcgXOok5du96BAFhVuVRl4DWeTzganjW7xyr2Q9aUX8-Zj61qwT0bu_An84RSdPZCYy-vBbwTGWqxS5o7cY0K32xvYuTYIa/s640/P1040446.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Paro at Royal Wedding time</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIHeT7BztoRQFTnG47DqxtJMhQaCgxX0ZFgo2Lai-HRAPBkqibf3SK7dDQY3r_QjKx0TPz-pmsg9nw8hdQ2ny6RxHYpNcHGJrXsGokE9FpzRoZWDNM8H5WBI_pbA0EVfDoAXqG/s1600/P1040450.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIHeT7BztoRQFTnG47DqxtJMhQaCgxX0ZFgo2Lai-HRAPBkqibf3SK7dDQY3r_QjKx0TPz-pmsg9nw8hdQ2ny6RxHYpNcHGJrXsGokE9FpzRoZWDNM8H5WBI_pbA0EVfDoAXqG/s640/P1040450.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Starting them young on Dharma!</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQX1wtGH5X0Xq14mkHgJFgw0N2t4s8F5IT45oW4adVQyibQQN7FU1RygihmP6j98j0OR_R3VJwOnoznPT6AbVVXmFi11i7MPgHjYaUJhlLIWPxbCRA0iDUshrSNZKviTmMZqS3/s1600/P1040457.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQX1wtGH5X0Xq14mkHgJFgw0N2t4s8F5IT45oW4adVQyibQQN7FU1RygihmP6j98j0OR_R3VJwOnoznPT6AbVVXmFi11i7MPgHjYaUJhlLIWPxbCRA0iDUshrSNZKviTmMZqS3/s640/P1040457.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Downtown Paro!</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUsYuzEPzeTevde7QkfC1s0E8h8M2IPpBJdH6-_6B6B38yLjhDLFwUxywp3E5NresV_975BeXNnDA3zz_SoqN6-oEBJoz_wYFOqACZyrL4QyW9b0aWlOnbU0ZIcQiynCPsVqrD/s1600/P1040563.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="532" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUsYuzEPzeTevde7QkfC1s0E8h8M2IPpBJdH6-_6B6B38yLjhDLFwUxywp3E5NresV_975BeXNnDA3zz_SoqN6-oEBJoz_wYFOqACZyrL4QyW9b0aWlOnbU0ZIcQiynCPsVqrD/s640/P1040563.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<b>Day 15</b><br />
<br />
An early start, leaving the hotel at 0630 to start our ascent to the Tiger's Nest Monastery, properly known as Taktshang Goemba, built in 1692 around the holy cave in which Guru Rinpoche is said to have meditated.<br />
Our hotel was only 20 minutes from the start of the trail, and we were the first off up the hill today, climbing steadily through the pine forest on a track that is well worn but would be horrible in the wet. Pleasant walking in the cool morning air, passing water driven prayer wheels and numerous chortens and prayer flags on the climb.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO29Lcx2fVp9i_HcofOwdcHrKg0eMaCEUEvBzbcLkOjmpwetklnDd_JdT98nIRMEHCkzgR3KDV2gq6T3EndCHj53cPqYk3MS_46aDZlq7X2D3ShXuo9hhtsziaiN-1OUe2mg4j/s1600/P1040503.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO29Lcx2fVp9i_HcofOwdcHrKg0eMaCEUEvBzbcLkOjmpwetklnDd_JdT98nIRMEHCkzgR3KDV2gq6T3EndCHj53cPqYk3MS_46aDZlq7X2D3ShXuo9hhtsziaiN-1OUe2mg4j/s640/P1040503.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Approaching the Tiger's Nest Monastery</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In under two hours we had reached the monastery, an ascent of some 500m (the monastery is about 900m from the valley floor, but the car park is higher at 2600m). It is a truly spectacular setting, and the top section of the climb requires a steep descent on steps, then across a bridge over a waterfall that divides the monastery complex, then a final steep climb up rock steps to the entrance at about 3110m. This is guarded by police and a permit is required to enter, and no photography is allowed inside the monastery itself.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimfeQp2Ue8sH3wTke4QRHi6rjwXhdr1Z96YoKZiZU6yJTl2JK21vrFdWLNggY0br2h_0_Ip-Og00F74_faR-Gy4TAVwL3UcYhhFD5l9WuxrOQENrf8rQAL3IRoKxGKpYmHa9_d/s1600/P1040525.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimfeQp2Ue8sH3wTke4QRHi6rjwXhdr1Z96YoKZiZU6yJTl2JK21vrFdWLNggY0br2h_0_Ip-Og00F74_faR-Gy4TAVwL3UcYhhFD5l9WuxrOQENrf8rQAL3IRoKxGKpYmHa9_d/s640/P1040525.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Taktshang Goemba</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It's a cold, dank place - the monastery, despite being rebuilt after a major fire in 1998, is very exposed to the elements and there seems to be no planned maintenance here, but the interior chapels are very atmospheric. The first, the Dubkhang, houses the cave where Guru Rinpoche meditated for three months. Above this, up steep wooden steps, is the Guru Sungjem Lhakhang, with magnificent images of the various manifestations of Guru Rinpoche. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy4xkTkiEShTLmKEfvi00DR2Z6soqWGGSz3l6DCYggcuJTpo67ZnXJdJzA-Mkj7CEWXb_U-k3-iY0xPw_DTiwLztBwzpq8lZ4xDqxI4UgB6i-Aqw63Xbx5Hwyu9_oNu_-AojTa/s1600/P1040532.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy4xkTkiEShTLmKEfvi00DR2Z6soqWGGSz3l6DCYggcuJTpo67ZnXJdJzA-Mkj7CEWXb_U-k3-iY0xPw_DTiwLztBwzpq8lZ4xDqxI4UgB6i-Aqw63Xbx5Hwyu9_oNu_-AojTa/s640/P1040532.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">One of Bhutan's most iconic sites, the Tiger's Nest Monastery</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Descent was straightforward and we had some refreshments at a cafeteria situated at 2940m, before the final charge down through the forest to our bus.<br />
And early lunch at a restaurant called Nivvana in the upper Paro valley, and then, after a freshen up, into Paro to join the locals in the last hours of the celebrations for the royal wedding. Once again, everyone on the streets enjoying a day off, colourfully garbed in national costumes.<br />
<br />
<b>Day 16</b><br />
<br />
Fly from Paro to Kathmandu. <br />
Efficient little airport with friendly staff. <br />
Lunch with some friends from Exodus and their Nepalese operators, Karma and Pasang, before an indulgent hour or so in my favourite bookshop in the world, <a href="http://www.pilgrimsbooks.com/">Pilgrim's Book House</a> in Thamel. <br />
Final group dinner at the Garden of Dreams...competently cooked western food and some wine for the first time on the trip. Farewells to many of the group...a nice bunch of people to have travelled with.<br />
<br />
<b>Day 17</b><br />
Leaving behind the usual chaos of Kathmandu airport, we flew to Delhi (100 minutes, on schedule) and then on to London. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvcMJv5Aukoo78nu3ZcpBKgBvJJUOMKyfofPX4Xesr4BE9jBfuPHWhtHyJUFGieavdptwv-fiYC3tOqn2ijoirlcjXwGL7riVmKDpRN9FT_scF_mv3Z5IJjUuzyWng-ujicE0S/s1600/HOGs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvcMJv5Aukoo78nu3ZcpBKgBvJJUOMKyfofPX4Xesr4BE9jBfuPHWhtHyJUFGieavdptwv-fiYC3tOqn2ijoirlcjXwGL7riVmKDpRN9FT_scF_mv3Z5IJjUuzyWng-ujicE0S/s640/HOGs.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">HOGs hard at work!</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOO4IOwiH9UwJjvHZlk6tCVAqvcKaFk1zrmGU0zemn2sa3sF_h6T9yUqYKeQhtXZFyuvHjpq-S8Ro-nTfptPrziSfXYOAmc0Nfn3LM_jNHpJoMFUTQQYZ_ShrlsEIbl_9qbzp0/s1600/IMG_1786.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="441" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOO4IOwiH9UwJjvHZlk6tCVAqvcKaFk1zrmGU0zemn2sa3sF_h6T9yUqYKeQhtXZFyuvHjpq-S8Ro-nTfptPrziSfXYOAmc0Nfn3LM_jNHpJoMFUTQQYZ_ShrlsEIbl_9qbzp0/s640/IMG_1786.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Happy Exodus group celebrate getting to the top of the Yale La!</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Postscript: a total of 37,481 international visitors entered Bhutan in 2011, a 38% increase on 2010 levels. Of these, 2,795 were British, compared to 772 the previous year.<br />
<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #3d85c6;">© Colin Stump, October 2011</span></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1