30 September 2002

Mont Blanc

August - September 2002


The team: Colin Stump, Hayden Measham, Richard Pratt, Graham Stump, Rod Shaw, assisted by guides from St GervaisA video of our climb is on YouTube.


30 August


Walk to Tre la Tete Glacier from les Contamines.




Aiguille Gouter from the Autoroute
St Gervais
View to Les Contamines Valley
Warm-up walk to the Tre-la-Tete Glacier 
1 September


Acclimatisation day: ascend to Albert Premier Refuge from La Tour and overnight. Storm develops overnight.


En route to the Albert Premier Refuge

Moraine path to the Albert Premier hut, alongside the Glacier du Tour

My brother Graham at the Albert Premier refuge
Richard and Graham at the Albert Premier Refuge, 2702m
2 September


Acclimatisation day: glacier training on Glacier du Tour. Poor weather and Graham suffers from altitude, so early descent to valley.


At the Albert Premier Refuge
Dawn start to the Aig. du Tour

Crampon practise on the Glacier du Tour


Descent from Albert Premier Refuge
3 September


Guided ascent of Pont Lachenal via the Vallee Blanche. Graham and Rod climb on the Brevent.


Hayden about to confront his vertigo!
Exit from the ice cave on the Aiguille du Midi 3800m
Aiguille du Midi from the Vallee Blanche
Guide testing for crevasses on the Vallee Blanche
Climbing Pont Lachenal from the Vallee Blanche
On the Vallee Blanche
Climbing the snow arete back to the Aiguille du Midi
Return to the Aiguille du Midi
4 September


Rest day


5 September


Setting off for Mt Blanc -TMB St. Gervais
Tramway du Mont Blanc to Nid d'Aigle, then climb up Aiguille de Gouter with fast crossing of the infamously dangerous Grand Couloir. Overnight in the Refuge Gouter. Crowded, horrible place.


The walk in from the Nid d'Aigle
Preparing to climb Aiguille Gouter
Steep ground to the Gouter Hut

Ascending Aiguille Gouter


6 September


Ascend Mont Blanc 4808m via the 'Ordinary Route', commencing 0230. Hayden and Colin summit at about 0800, but Richard (and, therefore Rod) forced to turn round below Bosses Ridge due to AMS. Long, tiring descent, but succeeded in getting last train back to St Gervais. 


First light on the Bosses Ridge
Summit in sight - final section of the Bosses Ridge


Hayden and Colin on the summit of Mont Blanc, 6 September 2002
Summit view towards the Vanoise
View N.E. from Mt Blanc to Aig. du Midi & the Aig. Verte

View west from Mt Blanc to Aiguille de Bionnassay
The summit ridge
Exhaustion on Mont Blanc!
Monte Bianco di Courmayear from the summit
Hayden on the summit
Descent from Mont Blanc
Vallot Refuge 4362m
View from Vallot Refuge
View from the Gouter Hut

Richard on the balcony at the Gouter Hut
Celebration Lunch - Brevent