Svalbard

Land of the Midnight Sun - A Circumnavigation of Svalbard

Svalbard Ice Map 4 July 2007 - please CLICK map to enlarge

I travelled with Exodus, on board the Akademik Sergei Vavilov, a Russian research vessel. The expedition was operated by Peregrine Expeditions, with David 'Dutch' Willmott as expedition leader.

Expedition Leader 'Dutch'

Svalbard is an archipelago of mainly glaciated mountainous islands about 600 miles from the North Pole. From June to August there is continuous daylight and the top metre of the permafrost on the islands melts. The climate here is milder than the latitude would suggest, technically ‘Arctic desert’, with little summer precipitation. Our embarkation point, Longyearbyen, is the main administrative centre of Svalbard, located on the largest island, Spitsbergen.

Day 1

We flew from London Heathrow to Longyearbyen on Spitsbergen via Oslo. Delayed flight from London meant a very quick transfer through a miserably wet Oslo and a further flight into an increasingly light sky as we travelled further north. I’d forgotten just how cramped SAS economy is, and you have to pay for food and drink…you have been warned!
We landed at about 0100 on the one and only runway, and it was like daytime…we’d arrived in the ‘land of the midnight sun’. Total flight time: 2 hours to Oslo plus another 2.5 hours to Longyearbyen. Not much going on in Longyearbyen…a typical coal mining town stuck up north of the Arctic Circle at 78 degrees 13’ N! One difference from most mining towns though…a plethora of snowmobiles parked up for the summer outside every home. Apparently, there are about 1,800 people living in the town, with almost 4,000 snowmobiles!

Day 2

Overnight stay at the pleasant Spitsbergen Hotel on a small hill just above the town. Had a good night’s sleep followed by a long walk around the town. A bright but cloudy day, with occasional drizzle. Temperature about 7 degrees C…the typical summer temperature up here. Sedimentary mountains define the fjord that Longyearbyen is based in. Snow streaked, and littered with old mining paraphernalia, this is a barren place, but with happy families out walking in the town and groups of reindeer grazing on the thin grass just outside.
I asked the receptionist at the hotel if there were any good walks beyond the town. Her response was ‘have you got a gun?’ I’d forgotten that we are in a region populated by polar bears! So, that’s a ‘no’ then…

Vavilov, off northwest Spitsbergen

Transferred to the ship in the afternoon and once aboard there was a get together for introductions to the expedition team, to learn about the ship and its layout, and participate in the obligatory lifeboat drill. At dinner I talked with one of the crew, Bjorn, who’s role was as firearms officer…he will accompany landing groups with a 308 rifle to protect against polar bears. He commented that at close quarters (<5 metres) you’d probably have no choice but to shoot the bear, but added that every polar bear shooting is treated with the same seriousness as a human murder by the Norwegian authorities.

Day 3

During the night we headed west through Isfjorden, then tracking NW, parallel to the long island of Prins Karls Forland before turning east into Kingsfjorden in the early hours. Brilliant blue skies by 0900, and fine views of the mountains and glaciers around Kingsfjorden. A whale was spotted some distance from the port side before breakfast and two reindeer mistaken momentarily for polar bear just west of Ny-Åylsund. This settlement is one of the northernmost communities in the world. Once a mining village served by the world’s most northerly railway, which can still be seen, it now serves as a base station for international Arctic research. Chinese and Korean climatic researchers were present.

Glaucous gull over Arctic waters

We moored off Ny-Åylsund for the morning whilst mandatory briefings on Zodiac landings, polar bears, and required conduct on Arctic territory (AECO guidelines) were provided. Then the first Zodiac landing, and a walk around the town. Visited the site where the first transpolar airship expedition departed - the anchoring mast used by Amundsen and Nobile for the airship Norge in 1926 and Nobile in the airship Italia in 1928 before their flights to the North Pole and on to Alaska.
Arctic terns, common eiders, glaucous gulls and snow buntings seen, but the local Arctic foxes were elusive.

Approaching Ny-Åylsund

We then sailed north to visit the Lilliehook Glacier in bright sunshine and clear blue skies. Our journey took us up the Krossfjorden, before entering the narrower channel leading up to the glacier. Hot chocolate for all on the bow deck…a treat! Fabulous views of the glacier. On board lectures on polar bears and Arctic photography followed.

Day 4

A long Zodiac transfer to visit the small island if Fugelsangen, off the far NW tip of Spitsbergen. A cold, grey day, with another expedition ship moored nearby. Visited a colony of little auks (doveskies) after a 750m walk, boulder hopping to avoid damage to the mosses and to prevent a visible path forming. Accompanied everywhere with armed guides. A sleeping polar bear was encountered on a previous visit.

Little auk, Svalbard

Back to the ship for lunch, then on to Zodiacs again for a walk on the island of Amsterdamøya, with a historic whaling site, established in the early 1600s by the Dutch, known as Smeerenburg or ‘Blubbertown’. Remnants of the old charcoal fired blubber ovens were evident (bowhead or Right whales were hunted). The temperature was between 3-4 degrees C all day.
Joined a group for the longest of the walks offered, the group christened the ‘chargers’ by the Peregrine team, and the walk went north across very boggy ground and patches of deep wet snow before we reached the other side of the small headland for a stroll along the beach, littered with trees from Siberia and the usual detritus from passing ships. Groups of kittiwakes were seen along with evidence of reindeer and Arctic fox. Our guides were on constant watch for polar bears. Returning three hours later in bright sunshine, we encountered a strong smell of sulphur…some volcanicity in the area. A funny dinner with some lively Canadians and Australians, after which it was difficult to turn in because of the very bright sunshine still around at 2230.

Day 5

After another very smooth night on ship, awoke to find sea ice around the ship. We’re north of 80 degrees N, just 600 miles from the North Pole. Grey skies today, with the temperature at 1.7 degrees C, as we headed east then south east into the Hinlopenstrettet, a wide channel between Spitsbergen and the other main island of Svalbard, Nordaustlandet. We travelled into increasingly thick sea ice, with scopes trained to look out for polar bears and walrus.

Then, halfway through a good lecture on sea ice, the call came over the tannoy that a bear had been spotted on a nearby ice floe. It quickly slipped into the water and started to swim away from the ship, but it was great to get a first sighting of a young adult male. The position of the sighting was just off Kapp Fanshawe, NE Spitsbergen.
Sea ice charts are available from http://www.met.no : click the English version and follow the links to the ice maps.
After lunch we travelled by Zodiac to Alkafjellet in the Kapp Farnshawe area to view a glacier at close quarters and some towering cliffs populated by thousands of Brunnich guillemots, Glaucous gulls and kittiwake. A cold hour or so on the boat, under leaden skies.
Then, after a short interlude, another Zodiac trip into Lomfjorden to check out the fast ice for seals and polar bears. Spent some considerable time in the ‘brash ice’ at the head of the fjord, but no sightings apart from a seal, and returned, chilled to the bone, back to Vavilov.

Lomfjorden, Spitsbergen

After dinner, the ship returned north westwards again, now encountering 70% ice cover, so a few bumps in the night are expected! The ice had moved northwards by about 15-20 miles whilst we were ‘playing’ in Lomfjorden and had effectively started to block our route back north. It was also here that we were made aware that a full circumnavigation of Svalbard would not be possible due to ice pack further east.

Lomfjorden, Spitsbergen

Day 6

Awoke to dense fog, although very bright as the weak sun tried to force its way through. We’re now at our northernmost point, at about 80 degrees 41’ N, just 560 miles away from the North Pole. As the sun cleared around us, we were in spectacular and highly photogenic ‘pancake’ ice, around 50% cover, with the occasional iceberg also seen.

Pancake ice of northern Spitsbergen

We spent the morning cruising through the sea ice and very calm open water on a north easterly track towards Phippsøya, the most northerly island of the Svalbard archipelago. A BBQ was held on deck at lunchtime…the most northerly BBQ ever! The afternoon was spent in Zodiacs in the bay between Phippsøya and Nelsonsøya, amidst fast ice and pack ice. Seals seen in the far distance, but a beautifully bright sunny afternoon in incredibly calm waters was enjoyed by all. This is now the northerly record…516 nautical miles from the Pole at 80 degrees 43.063 N 19 degrees 51.705 E.

Bearded seal

Of course, nothing in the Arctic can be predicted, so no sooner than we had departed from Phippsøya, when a bearded seal was spotted on an ice floe. Some reasonably good close up photography was possible before it slipped away into the water. So off to the bar for a beer, when we were rudely interrupted by a call announcing that a polar bear with cub were in the water to our starboard side, so up on to the bow deck again to view this new spectacle, keeping an appropriate distance to ensure that we were not harassing the animals. However, they swam and swam, more and more into open water, so I’m not sure we achieved that particular self-imposed limit. Much excitement on board though.

Polar bear with cub, Phippsøya, northern Spitsbergen

Day 7

At 0615, expedition leader ‘Dutch’ announced that we had reached Moffen Island, off the northern coast of Spitsbergen. A herd of walrus were sleeping on the beach, with a couple in the shallow waters around. Some distant viewing was possible, but there was insufficient depth of water for the ship to get closer, and, as a special conservation area, we were not permitted to get closer than 300m anyway.

We then headed SW for Woodfjorden, en route to a Zodiac exploration of the huge Monaco Glacier.

Monaco Glacier, Woodfjorden

This proved to be an eventful trip, again in bright sunshine and calm waters, with a sighting of polar bears at the northern end of the channel (very distant, however) followed by a pod of Beluga whales at our mooring point just off the end of the fjord, where the surge glaciers empty into the sea. More kittiwake sitting on ice floes, deep blue freshwater icebergs, a ring seal, and ultimately a sea full of brash ice (small particles of glacier ice in the sea) as we cruised under the towering walls of these massive ice flows. Unique to Svalbard, we were looking at surge glaciers, which after a static period of up to 20 years, suddenly thrust forward at a rate of 15-20m per day, spilling tons of ice into the sea.

Woodfjorden and the Monaco Glacier

A quick lunch, then off on to the Zodiacs again in an attempt to find the polar bears that were fleetingly glimpsed earlier in the day. The ship had repositioned itself slightly during lunch, moving north to moor off the Andøyane Islands, a group of low lying islands at the head of Liefdelfjorden.
As usual the groups split into specialist interest groups with the faster walkers heading off to circumnavigate the larger of the islands.

Andoyane Islands, off northern Svalbard

There were spectacular views to the head of the fjord, with increasing cloud cover and strengthening winds, and some wonderful looking lenticular clouds forming over nearby mountains. Just as this group turned to get back to the Zodiacs, our leader ‘Woody’ spotted a polar bear, a lone male weighing about 300-400 lbs, some 800m away. We were downwind of the bear, so not immediately spotted, although eventually he did notice one of the other walking groups who were approximately 500m away from him.
He was quite nonchalant, concentrating instead on his mission to search out eggs from the many Arctic Tern nests on the island, but the Peregrine team got the groups swiftly back to the Zodiacs, always conscious that these animals can travel at up to 25kph over short distances. Moreover, there is always the possibility that another bear could be in the vicinity.

Polar bear on the Andoyane Islands

Back on the Zodiacs, now on a very choppy sea, we were able to view the bear in safety, although the rough sea and salt spray precluded quality photography.
All in all, an eventful day!

Day 8

A grey, windy start to the day. Despite strong winds and a moderate swell, the stabiliser system on the Vavilov is amazing: a slight motion only, and one that would have been much greater on lesser ships. Overnight we had repositioned back to the west coast of Spitsbergen and before breakfast had re-entered Krossfjorden, in readiness for an excursion to the 14th July Glacier (Fjortende Julibreen).
In a stronger wind we boarded the Zodiacs after breakfast to view some relatively well vegetated cliffs populated by puffin and guillemots. Strong gusts of wind and some driven sleet and snow determined an early landing. A beach landing from rough sea, followed by a slow amble along to the snout of the 14 July Glacier (name has French origins). A simple beach walk, with nesting skewers warning us not to approach closer by hovering threateningly over our heads.
A bumpy return to the ship!
As it turned out, this was to be the last excursion of the day. A planned visit to a known walrus herd at Richardlaguna was aborted when an advance party found that no animals were to be seen. So, a lazy afternoon on the ship instead…

Day 9

Overnight the ship sailed south, passing the westerly island of Prins Karls Forland before turning north again into the largely uncharted Forlandsundet to access the headland of Poolepynten, where a large herd of walrus had recently been seen by other expedition ships. An early Zodiac expedition was launched, with the ship’s passengers split into three groups in order to meet the AECO regulations that no more than 30 people should land close to a walrus herd at any one time (and not get any closer than 30m from them). Groups would then fan out and approach the walrus very slowly so as not to stress them. As it turned out, there was not much action on the beach as the small number of walrus here were asleep.

Walrus at Poolepynten, Prins Karls Forland

More action was had on the water, with good close-up views of two young walrus and, on the return to the ship, a very close encounter with a young humpback whale who came into feed very close to the shore of Poolepynten, in fact between us and the walrus herd. On the beach itself, things were enlivened by arctic tern attacking us for getting too close to their nests and just offshore, skewers aggressively chasing kittiwake. Never a dull moment…and, all this before breakfast!
Then a long day’s cruising to Bourbonhamna in Van Keulenfjorden, where there was short Zodiac landing to visit a trapper’s hut and piles of Beluga whale bones. Signs of recent polar bear activity around a rotting sperm whale carcass were also observed.

Day 10

A somewhat disturbed night on the ship with big swells as we headed around the southern tip of Spitsbergen. Early morning we were at 76 degrees 21.179N, 016 degrees 48.160E and heading north east for our first Zodiac landing in the Isbukta area. By 0800 there was sea ice to the north and east of the ship, much further south than we had experienced on the western side of Spitsbergen, supporting the view that a full circumnavigation would have been impossible at this early point of the Arctic summer.
Technically, this was only a band of sea ice, about 2 miles to get through it, but it was a spectacular display of multi-year sea ice in a pulsing swell. The zodiac landing was about 2 miles off the ship as the inner coastal waters are not charted. Apart from seeing a bearded and a few ring and harbour seals, we had a distant viewing of a young adult polar bear dragging a small seal across the fast ice close to the glacier. This, we were told, was classic polar bear country: fast ice, fairly flat, with an abundance of seals for food.
Later in the day our journey took us to Hambergbukta on the SE of Spitsbergen for another possible landing. It was a long approach by Zodiac from the ship as the terminal and lateral moraine from the main glacier feeding this bay extends out an unknown distance. An early sighting of a large polar bear swimming in the bay to our north was a taster of things to come as one of the scout boats soon reported seeing two bears on the fast ice just below the snout of the glacier.

Polar bear on fast ice, Hambergbukta, southeast Spitsbergen

This proved to be one of the best photographic opportunities of the trip, but as there were seven Zodiacs on the water, the approach was to slowly but progressively approach them so as not to stress the animals. This meant shots were taken with a long lens on a floating boat, with predictable results. One bear was standing over a seal air hole and was motionless for the duration of the visit, but the other was much more active, rolling in the snow (yoga bear…) and then moving purposefully to the north along the glacier edge to check out another very large bear that suddenly appeared at the far end of the fast ice, possibly the one we saw in the water on the approach. There was much sniffing and eyeballing, and the large bear soon climbed up a ramp on to the glacier and took her exit. An excellent sighting, but extremely cold, as fog started to roll off the mountains and the chill from the glacier was very noticeable. A bumpy ride back, followed by a good dinner and charity auction for polar bear research, raising over $4,000.

Day 11

The days started quietly cruising the side fjords of the spectacular Hornsund area of south Spitsbergen, enjoying the towering mountain peaks and the 14 glaciers in the area. Afternoon excursion and landing in the Burgerbukta area.

Day 12

Disembarkation and return flight, via Tromso and Oslo, into London.

Summary

A good insight into the Arctic environment, aboard one of the best ice strengthened ships in the world, with superb manoeuvreability and stability. Reaching within 600 miles of the North Pole, the 24 hour daylight affords great viewing at all times (recognising that we were blessed with favourable weather...it can often be foggy). A land of peaks rising to over 1700m, glaciers that literally pour into the ocean, and unique wildlife, including the elusive polar bear.
Tips: make sure you bring good waterproof bags for cameras, the longest lens you can afford/carry, take the warnings about polar bears very seriously (we never landed without armed guides scouting the area first and we were closely guarded at all times on shore), and prepare to be patient - the sightings of bear and walrus are often hard won.

Thailand and Cambodia, February 2007

Family Trip, February 2007


Day 1/2


Thai Airways to Bangkok (about 10 hours, assisted by strong tail wind) then on to Chiang Rai. One hour transfer to Anantara Golden Triangle Resort, overlooking Myanmar, Laos and Thailand. Hotel just west of Chiang Saen, the ancient Lanna capital. At dusk, observed thousands of white egret roosting in the water meadows below us. Very atmospheric views down to the Ruak river as it joins the Mekong.


Day 3

Golden Buddha, Chiang Saen

Visit to the large Golden Buddha donated by the Malaysian President just west of Chiang Saen, located at the ‘Golden Triangle’. Uncomfortable one hour long tail boat trip down the Mekong to Chiang Khong – now a filthy river, mainly polluted by the Chinese who also vary river levels through their hydro-electric projects upstream. Walk through local villages and stop at a Hmong village, with a school supported by the Royal Princess. Agricultural focus here is rice, soy bean, cabbage and maize. Attractive, relatively flat countryside and very hazy – a combination of heat haze and smoke from burning off in Laos. Temple visits in Chiang Saen, both located in teak woodland. Back at the hotel we visited the elephants rescued from unhealthy city work in Bangkok.


Day 4


Visited northern Thai tribes people around Chiang Rai – Hmong, Padong, Akha, longneck Karen and Shan women mainly, all selling assorted handicrafts. Very touristy!

Long Neck Karen tribeswoman

Northern Thai tribeswoman

Great views from the temple of Wat Thaton, high above the Mae Nam Kok River, with a big stupa and huge brilliant white Buddha. The area to the west of Chiang Rai is hillier and less populated, with tangerine, lychee and mango trees in abundance.

Wat Thaton, near Chiang Rai

Further south we stopped at the cave complex of Than Chiang Dao, situated in attractive karst limestone landscape.
Finally, on busier roads, we reached Chiang Mai and enjoyed the minimalist surroundings of The Chedi, situated on the banks of the Mae Ping river. Visited the famous Night Bazaar nearby…loads of fake tat for sale.


Day 5


An early start for the drive up to see Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, a splendid temple with gleaming copper plated stupa situated high on a hill overlooking Chiang Mai.

Copper plated stupa at Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, near Chiang Mai

Then flight to Bangkok and quick late afternoon visit to Wat Pho, home of the huge Reclining Buddha, up river from our hotel on the banks of the Mae Nam Chao Phraya. Water taxis are cheap and very efficient.

Reclining Buddha at Wat Phoi, Bangkok 

Wat Pho, Bangkok

Day 6


Return to Wat Pho for more pictures, then a short walk alongside the Grand Palace perimeter to visit the huge temple complex within the walls, including the revered Temple of the Emerald Buddha, Wat Phra Kaew. A fantastic collection of the most ornate and stunning architecture but extremely difficult to photograph due to a profusion of perspectives! Time only permitted a quick external viewing of the splendid Grand Palace building, beautifully kept in manicured gardens.

Wat Phra Kaew, Temple of the Emerald Buddha, Bangkok

Grand Palace, Bangkok

Then back to the new Bangkok airport for the one hour flight to Siem Riep in Cambodia. Stayed at the Victoria Angkor Hotel, colonial style buildings just north of the town. A big contrast to Thailand … many more people on bicycles and mopeds, reflecting the higher level of poverty in this previously butchered nation. The landscape around Siem Riep also very different, very flat and often waterlogged with rice paddies and stands of sugar palms.


Day 7


Up sharp to get the early morning light at the red sandstone temple complex at Banteay Srei. Well presented and many intricate carvings. Passed an Exodus group-sponsored well in one of the villages just south of Bataey Srei.

Banteay Srei, Cambodia

Then on to Ta Phrom, a temple complex which is completely unrestored and is slowly being taken over by the jungle. Most notable are the banyan and kapak trees which have rooted themselves into the temple walls and are now reaching great heights. A very atmospheric spot, only compromised by narcissistic S Korean visitors!

Ta Phrom, Cambodia

A pre-lunch visit to Angkor Wat, accessing it via the quieter East Gate before climbing the very steep temple steps to get the views from the top. A grand spectacle and the awe inspiring scale leaves you lost for words. Exit via the ‘Kings Road’ to the west and good local lunch nearby. People very friendly and lower hassle factor than expected.
After lunch we visited the Bayon, my personal favourite temple, comprising 37 towers, most sporting four carved faces, plus bas relief on the lower walls.

The Bayon

A quick walk through the city of Angkor Thom, the walled and moated Royal city of the Khmers, but now getting very hot indeed, about 35 degrees.
A short hotel break, then back to Angkor Wat for sunset from a nearby hill temple.


Day 8

Sunrise at Angkor Wat

Early morning at Angkor Wat

Stumpy at Angkor Wat

Dawn visit to Angkor Wat before flight back to Bangkok and onward flight to Krabi. Joined at our hotel with daughter Anna and son Kevin (now well into his second year of backpacking the world) - this was the start of the ‘big chill’.


Day 9 to Day 14


Visits to Ao Nang, and the islands of Ko Hong, Pakbia and Lading. Snorkelling and photography.

Ko Hong

Ko Phi Phi Leh

Maya Bay ('The Beach')

Hat Pha Nang

Speed boat trip to Ko Phi Phi Don (very crowded and being ruined by overdevelopment) and the quieter Ko Phi Phi Leh, with the famous Maya Beach (of ‘The Beach’ fame). Some good snorkelling in very clear water.
Visit to Railay and Hat Phra Nang by long tail boat from Ao Nang. Beaches, caves and good rock-climbing.
Rainforest trip to the Emerald Pools and the Tiger Temple complex near Krabi.

Tiger Temple, near Krabi 

Swamp forest near Krabi, Thailand

Day 15


Fond farewell to Kevin, now off to Myanmar, China, Tibet, Nepal and northern India on the next leg of his journey, before our long flight home from Bangkok.

A Short Journey to Bolivia and Peru

My travelling companion was my daughter Anna. We joined a segment of the Exodus 'South American Explorer' overland itinerary.

With Anna on the Salar de Uyuni

Day 1 - 28 October


9 hour flight from LHR to Miami on an underwhelming AA flight. Transferred baggage to next flight having cleared immigration and took cab to get some lunch at Miami Beach.
Quite a small city really, albeit with much new construction underway, taking the freeway to South Beach with views to the Downtown and Harbour Bay areas. Had a quick look at the (nondescript) beach before walking the ´strip´ to find a restaurant for lunch. Art deco buildings, with an odd assortment of highbrow and downmarket venues all peddling similarly themed food. Settled on a Cuban restaurant and shared a plate of grilled fish before getting a cab back to the airport, this time detouring to have a better look at Downtown and areas to the north. Passed various islands with very large houses, one belonging to Gloria Estafan, with large boats moored nearby.
An interminable wait at Miami for the La Paz flight, but did, eventually, get that all important upgrade! We ignored food and went straight to sleep before waking to see dawn breaking over the Amazon to our left and spectacular views to the Cordillera Real to our left…a fine vista of 6000m snow capped peaks north of La Paz. Then over the barren altiplano to land at El Alto, the highest commercial airport in the world at over 4,000m. Arrived 0630 after a 6 hour 20 mins flight – 31 hours of travel so far!


Day 2 - 29 October


Met by Carlos, William and driver Estoban of ´Tours of Bolivia´. Carlos is a renowned Andean mountaineer, but left us in the hands of William, a very knowledgeable 36 year old guide, who studied tourism at university for 5 years. Into an ageing 4WD, we passed through El Alto, a rapidly expanding commuter suburb above La Paz, and headed south across the altiplano at an altitude of between 3,500 – 4,000m. Sudden moves produced a racing heartbeat and shortness of breath! 

Crossing the Altiplano at around 3600m

We passed through many small towns and villages, where people eke out a largely subsistence living, growing potatoes, millet, vegetables and raising llama for meat and wool, plus cows and sheep. A very poor people, still using ox-drawn ploughs, washing clothes in rivers, etc, although 100,000 of them commute from El Alto each day in search of work.
Big skies, distant lakes shimmering in the clear light, a thunderstorm producing intensely contrasting light to the east and seemingly barren landscape which is, in fact, very fertile.
A breakfast stop, great OJ, chicken sandwich etc., before moving south to Oruro, the biggest settlement on the altiplano with a population of 200,000 but now a shadow of its former self (a major silver and tin mining area), but with intriguing sculptures made from scrap metal and one of the most famous of all S American festivals held in February each year.
Onwards to Challapata for a quick lunch of sevaruho soup (made from a local grain called quinoa, which has an exceptionally high protein content).
As we travelled further south from here, the tarmac quickly ran out and we drove on wide, reasonably well graded gravel roads, moving across increasingly arid and deserted country. Outcrops of lava sills to the east, many ghost towns (whose previous raison d´etre was to service the railways carrying ore from the south).

South from Oruro

Passed Lago Poopo, much diminished due to evaporation (more impact of global warming), to the west, saw sand dunes that didn´t exist 10 years ago, and huge expanses of graminea , a local grass that grows in conical tufts. The roads were bordered by dhola, a bush with a pungent resin, used for fire making. Spotted a lone flamingo on a patch of salt lake.
Volcanoes and subsidiary vents seen all the way to Uyuni, particularly to the east.
A long drive, we could feel the intensity of the UV radiation at this altitude, and we were much relieved to finally reach Hotel Girasols, three blocks away from the market area of this dusty town in the middle of nowhere! A town now very dependent on tourism, with the demise of the local mine at Pulcayo.
Quote of the day…on dust: ´a communion with Mother Earth´ !
A very tiring day – about 41 hours door to door, but the anticipation for a great trip ahead unabated. A quick walk into town, a good pizza and bed by 2040!


Day 3 - 30 October



Breakfast at the hotel including our first taste of coca tea (rather like green tea really), and then off to visit the magnificent Salar de Uyuni, the highest and largest salt lake in the world, lying at 3,650m and twice the size of Great Salt Lake in the USA, with an area of 100,000 sq. km. The depth of salt is normally between 2-20m. It’s an awesome spectacle as you first approach the edge of the salt lake, about half hour outside the town. Passing through a small hamlet where everybody derives an income from salt - either for industrial use or table salt (where it is processed with addition of iodine to eliminate goitre, traditionally a big local health issue) – we sped across the pan in a 4WD for our first stop at a now abandoned hotel, the Hotel Playa Blanca, constructed from salt blocks and roofed with thatch. Abandoned as effluent was polluting the salt pan, but certainly a great location, more so than the newly constructed salt hotels being finished on the edge of the pan nearby.

Hotel Playa Blanca

First view of the magnificent Salar de Uyuni

We stopped to view the ‘ojos de sal’, which are the breathing spaces for subterranean rivers flowing under the Salar, and spectacular shows of crystalline colours on a surface covered in pentagonal and hexagonal shapes. These areas are to be avoided when driving across the lake as they can be very deep. In the smaller holes you could pick out perfectly cuboid salt crystals forming on the sides.
Our next objective was Incahuasi (literally ‘Inca lodge’) – an island of volcanic origin, formed of pyroclastic lava and since covered in coral from ancient seas and now fossilised. Also known as Isla de Pescadores, it is about 80km from the hotel, and emerges like the back of a fish (hence the name) as you approach and the curvature of the earth reveals the view as you get closer. Incahuasi was used as a resting place for the Incas who used to cross the lake with llamas loaded with goods for trade in Chile (border about 150 km to the west) and beyond. As you draw near to the island you start to see hundreds of the giant columnar cacti, many of which exceed 10m in height, with the oldest specimen 1,203 years old!

Trick photography on the Salar de Uyuni

There’s a small café and hotel on the island, with thatched roof and coral walls. A circular tour path takes you up to the highest elevation, amidst the cacti, and this gives you spectacular 360 degree views of the blazingly white lake, occasionally punctuated by some of the other 60-odd islands, all remnants and products of extinct volcanoes. There were distant views to glacier topped mountains to the west and the 5,400 m Volcan Tunupa, our next objective to the north.

Views from the Isla de Pescadores (incahuasi)

The drive took about 90 minutes, with my daughter Anna and I taking turns at the wheel. Arriving at the base of the volcano, we crossed a waterlogged fringe area with foreshortened views of the gigantic crater, rocks grey and red from the past inferno. There were many llama and vicuna about as we ascended a steepening gravel track above the small village of Maya, climbing about 300m to view a tomb containing the remains of a mummified family. The father, obviously an important man, had died and, in the custom of the (pre Inca) times, his family were required to die with him. It was a bit spooky looking at a whole family in mummified form.

Mummified family, at cave near Maya, next to Volcan Tunupa 

Stumpy on the Salar de Uyuni

On the way up to the tomb we saw a condor in the distance (unfortunately now very rare), and another form of columnar cacti, this time with red flowers. Great views down across the salt pan, where we spotted a small group of Chilean Flamingo (yellow legs), before returning to Uyuni across the salt. We had some fun with photography, exploiting the intense light of this amazing natural feature.

Salar de Uyuni from Volcan Tunupa

Returning to Uyuni we stopped for a quick look at the graveyard for late 19th century steam engines and assorted rolling stock. Rusting away in the bright sun of the altiplano, this is the legacy of Uyuni’s mining heyday. Back to the hotel, farewells to our two guides and a quick supper at the Kaktus restaurant – llama steak, spag bol and a couple of drinks $20…a bargain! Internet café, hotel, bed!

Railway graveyard, near Uyuni

Uyuni

Day 4 - 31 October


Off at 0800, courtesy of Chris and Suzi at Tonito Tours in Uyuni, with ageing driver Ishmael. Steep pull eastwards on gravel roads, passing through a military checkpoint to enter the virtually deserted mining village of Pulcayo. Up and up, crossing a number of passes, one at over 4,190m, amidst spectacular scenery which changed completely every 15 minutes as we travelled through yet another geological zone. Rolling pampa, many llama and vicuna, eventually seeing more goats and pigs as we neared Potosi. Volcanic outcrops, lava flows, sand dunes, canyons (with a quick lunch next to the river in Rio San Juan) and immense landscapes in all directions. Very little habitation here – the odd village like Ticatica – but mainly clusters of farms near watercourses, where isolated but very green trees, mainly willows and a cypress type tree, grew. Some very wide river valleys, dry at this time of the year (the rainy season starts late November), with pampas grass surviving in the river bed.
A long, winding and frequently exposed gravel road, taking us about 5 hours to travel, only enlivened by the wandering attentions of our driver, which gave rise to a few heart-stopping moments on the more exposed sections!

On the road to Potosi

We finally reached Potosi, the highest city in the world at 3,977m, a bustling town of narrow streets with brightly painted houses. There was some confusion over hotels, so we booked into the Hotel Santa Teresa, close to the main city square, the Plaza 10 de Noviembre. Towering over the city is the 4,824m Cerro Rico (Rich Mountain). At the end of the sixteenth century Potosi was the biggest city in the Americas and one of the richest in the world, rivalled only by London, Paris and Seville due to silver mining on a grand scale. The annual average temp is 9 degrees C!
Mine tours can last about 4-5 hours and are said to be ‘physically and emotionally draining’ – mine entrances are above 4,000m and the walking/crouching can involve breathing noxious gases and seeing people working in appalling conditions in temperatures up to 40 degrees C (miners get first degree silicosis after 5 years and are untreatable after 15 years). Needless to say, the miners are avid users of coca.
We decided to go for a shorter tour with tour guide Banoa, formed three years ago by an ex-miner (and avid coca user). We took a short taxi ride to the miner’s area and were provided with protective clothing, wellies, and helmet with electric light pack, before being led to purchase gifts for the miners we would see working. A ‘one stop shop’ found us purchasing bags of coca, cigarettes – and, amazingly, sticks of dynamite, ammonium nitrate, fuse wire and detonators!

Coca gift for the miners at Potosi

Cerro Rico, Potosi

Potosi

'Tourist' entrance to the silver mines at Potosi !

Then up to the mine on appalling access roads to watch our guide give a demonstration of how to produce an explosion…he calmly lit the fuse, handed the charge to me for a very brief photographic moment, then ran up the hill to place it into a hole in the side of the mountain, seconds before the charge exploded with a tumultuous bang.
This experience was accompanied by a little coca chewing. Placing the leaves inside your cheek and allowed to slowly soften to release the juices after 10 minutes or so, ash was then introduced to catalyse the chemicals in the leaf, given rise to almost instant numbness on that side of the face. A strange experience, and not one I’d be particularly bothered to repeat. But, apparently, chewing coca suppresses the appetite and enables the miners to work for long period without exhaustion.

Miner adds detonator to a stick of dynamite

Stumpy in a moment of madness, holding a stick of dynamite with the fuse already lit...

And the result...

After that we were up for anything, except the mine entrance was very foreboding – a hole in the side of the hill, with crude pit props and compressed air pipe work randomly suspended above our heads. Into the tunnels, quite low in places, with huge unprotected holes on either side of the path, which will have served as ventilation shafts or access holes for ore to be taken out of the mine for processing. Several hundred metres in, we came across a miner, working on his own in a hole, painstakingly pushing explosives into nine holes (each 20 cms deep) that he had spent the previous two days drilling by hand. After an hour or so, we all retreated 50m back up the tunnel, to be followed by nine thunderous bangs, each accompanied by a shock wave that pummelled the ears. No wonder these guys chew coca.

Miner rodding dynamite charges into the rock

Local woman with coca

As we turned towards the exit, we were persuaded to drop down into another shaft to view a ‘museum’, the main feature of which was a small chamber dominated by an effigy known as ‘El Tio’. This figure had a huge penis, was covered in coca leaves and had a cigarette stuffed into its mouth, all offerings given by the miners at the end of the Friday shift to pay homage to the god of the mine. Whilst they do this they also get smashed on 90 degree spirit before going down to the town for more…not very different from the old mining towns in the UK methinks!

El Tio

A short description of the mining is called for. The ore is a complex blend of silver, tin, lead, and zinc, found in seams amidst granite and volcanic lava. Some of the walls are covered with a crystalline form of arsenic…an inhospitable place indeed. Each miner is a member of a cooperative, and will normally employ less experienced men (and his own family during school holidays) to man-haul the ore to the surface. 15% of his proceeds go to the coop and 4% to the state who provide basic health care and old age provision. They make a living, occasionally a very good one if they hit on a seam of ‘red silver’, but their income depends entirely on the quality of ore they extract.
Returning to the hotel we later met up with the Exodus overland group we were to spend the next week or so travelling with. They had started in Rio de Janeiro some six weeks earlier and had recently come up through Chile. A good dinner was had at the restaurant El Fogon, but with appetites tempered by altitude and jet lag.

Hotel interior, Potosi

Day 5 - 1 November


Awoke feeling groggy for the first time, the first effects of altitude, probably not helped by red wine the night before. Had a walk up into the town, visiting the ornate mestizo style tower of the Jesuit Compania de Jesus Church where we climbed a very tight spiral staircase up to the bell tower, to get great views over the city. We then did a quick walking tour of the city and some people watching in the Plaza 10 de Noviembre, before taking a tour of the Casa Nacional de Moneda, one of eight gold and silver coin mints established by the Spaniards in South America. It’s an impressive building and we had an amusing tour with a slightly eccentric guide – paintings, coins, dies and presses. A good lunch in the Internet Café Calendria, then a short walk around the town in lovely warm sunshine. Evening dinner with the group and a bar whose walls are covered in graffiti from overland groups and assorted travellers.


Day 6 - 2 November



Met group and breakfasted in the Hotel Jerusalem before boarding our truck (‘Pope 6’) for the long drive, thankfully on tarmac, from Potosi to La Paz. We set off at 0800 and quickly we were passing through spectacular canyons and mountainous country again. Very few signs of life out here, although groups of families were clustered in cemeteries today to celebrate the ‘Day of the Dead’. We passed through tracts of country where the rocks and soil were a light shade of green, probably evidence of copper, before reaching Challapata where we had stopped for lunch on our first day in Bolivia. Then north towards Oruru on a relatively flat road, with Lago Poopo to our left. A lunch stop in the middle of nowhere, then on again until a succession of tyre problems happened upon us – a blown tyre wall, a blow out in the replacement tyre, and finally a puncture in the replacement for that, as we passed through the rather dodgy El Alto township above La Paz. All in all, this added three hours to the journey, but time was passed with a good book (recommended - ‘The Boy in the Striped Pyjamas’), quizzes, and some hilarity with a Quecha woman who was married to a tyre repairman who helped us some 2 hours south of La Paz.

Lunch stop between Potosi and La Paz

Wacky Quecha lady and Stumpy

Passing through El Alto with the cabin lights turned off (so as not to attract attention to a bunch of ‘wealthy’ gringos in this rough part of the city), we eventually reached La Paz, fantastically situated in a deep canyon 350m below the altiplano. 

El Alto

We reached the hotel, Estella Andina Hostel, at 2100, before having a very good (but quick) dinner next door.
Traveller’s note: iPods do not function well above 3,000m, and even if you do get them working, they frequently fail when you get back down to lower altitudes…you have been warned!


Day 7 - 3 November


La Paz! Awoken by peeping horns everywhere. The hotel, situated about two blocks from the famous ‘Witches’ Market’ in Linares, is very friendly and efficient, with each room individually painted in frescos of Bolivian scenes – ours of Potosi, with a picture of Cerro Rico and another of the entrance to the Mint concealing our bathroom door. The hotel also has internet facilities.
After breakfast, we took a short walk down to Linares and Sagrnasa streets before an informative visit to the Coca Museum, which was well presented and interesting. Then back to Linares for some shopping, including an oil painting from a gallery close to the museum. 

We paid a quick visit to the bustling Plaza san Francisco before rejoining a few of the group for lunch at ‘Pot Colonial’ on Linares. Waited a hour for our drinks, then another 30 minutes for food of poor quality. A completely shambolic place to eat…not recommended.
We took a three hour city tour in the afternoon, first heading out to the Valle de la Luna, an area where mud has dried, then eroded into fantastic pinnacles and canyons. Weird. It is also overlooked by the world’s highest golf course, Mallasilla GC. 

Valle de la Luna, La Paz

Going back into the city we passed through the wealthier suburb of Calacoto, before stopping at the main square, Plaza Murillo, a busy place full of pigeons, surrounded by fine buildings on all sides, including one riddled with bullet holes from the 2003 troubles. Here we saw the Palacio Presidencial and the Congreso Nacional buildings, before walking up Indaburo, past the Teatro Nacional into Calle Jaen, an area with some fine colonial architecture. A quick visit to the Museo de Metales Preciosos (the ‘Gold Museum’) which has many Inca gold artefacts in basement vaults. Then back to Linares, via the San Francisco cathedral, for the Witches Market, with stools offering llama foetuses (used to bring good luck to a new house constructon).

La Paz cityscapes

Central La Paz

Lama foetus in the Witches' Market, La Paz

Witches' market, La Paz

The evening was spent in Mongo’s in the south of the city, which became increasingly lively and funky as the evening drew on. Then on to a club for more drink, as if we hadn’t already had enough, some cheesy ‘Latino Rap’ (and even cheesier dancing), before a half decent Cuban band came on to perform some upbeat salsa. Late to bed…


Day 8 - 4 November

An early start, picked up by guide and driver for a privately organised climb in the mountains north east of the city. A two hour drive, the first hour through the sprawling suburb of El Alto, often on appalling roads, and then an hour on a very rough gravel track with the Cordillera Real appearing ahead of us – glaciated tops, many over 5,500m. We were heading for a lake known as Chiarcota, set amongst a group of 13 mountains known as the Condoriri, all between 5,100 and 5,700m. We walked from the Tuni dam, taking two hours to do a ‘three hour’ itinerary. It was a straightforward walk, mainly on gravel tracks and then on to llama paths, winding their way up the valley past other lakes and some very isolated farmsteads with llama and alpaca in abundance, ascending from 4,400 to 4,700 m.

Entering the Cordillera Real

As we neared our objective Chiarcota, the clouds closed in on the tops, seriously reducing visibility. After a quick lunch in a small barn (joined by a Tucan Adventure group) we set off down again for the two hour slog back to the car, occasionally rained on in increasing wind. I got a bout of 'tingly fingers' - my body's reaction to the first proper physical effort above 4,500m and similar to my expereience in Ecuador in 2004 - but it had subsided by the time we dropped below 4,500m again. Annoying! Views back to the Cordillera Real and forward to a distant view of Lake Titicaca.

Approach to Chiarcota, before the cloud came down!

Retuning to La Paz, we were rewarded with a great view of Illimani 6,439m looming above the city. We had a dinner at an ‘English Pub’ – curry , beer and great chips! All washed down with a pint of Tetley Tea! Early to bed…knackered.


Day 9 - 5 November

Departed La Paz at 0800, passing up through the chaotic streets of El Alto for the last time and out on to the altiplano once again in overcast weather. A two hour drive through barren country brought us to the ruins of Tiahuanaco. Here a guide with very poor English attempted to take us through the history of this amazing pre Inca civilisation which lasted for 2,700 years before failing around AD 1200, probably as a result of a prolonged drought. 

Tiahuanaco

Skull deformation, clever agriculture, advanced building techniques – a surprisingly gifted group of people who dominated the region for so many years. A tour of the museum, the ruins, with assorted ‘sun gates’, walled fortifications and pyramids, before a quick lunch and short drive to the border with Peru at Desquedero. Very straightforward border crossing, and then a long drive following the shoreline of Lake Titicaca to our right, witnessing an amazing hail storm as we progressed north. Distant views to Ilampu 6,480m on the other side of the lake and rounded, often terraced, mountains to our left.

Border between Bolivia and Peru, Desquedero

There were festivals in almost town we passed through and people here looked slightly wealthier than we had seen in Bolivia – more tractors, outside toilets next to most dwellings – and rich agricultural land adjoining the lake. Carrots in abundance! After another hour or so we stopped to view the Temple of Fertility where we guided by a couple of kids around a pre Inca construction containing both erect and inverted penises. Amusing for all.

Exodus group at the Temple of Fertility, en route to Puno

On to Puno, a town which has taxi rickshaws everywhere. We parked the truck in a compound and took a rickshaw to the Hotel Italia, set close to the attractive town centre, with throngs of people on the streets celebrating the final stages of the Jubilee Festival. We had a briefing by the guide on the forthcoming tour of Lake Titicaca then set out for a local restaurant…alpaca meat and some good red. Dodgy stomach overnight the result…

Puno

Day 10 - 6 November



Early walk into town with glorious blue skies all around. Off at 0800 by bicycle rickshaw to the harbour where we purchased gifts for our hosts at tonight’s home stay. Boarded a small motor boat for the 45 minute trip through the green algae caused by effluent pollution in the bay next to Puno (a treatment plant is being built which should resolve this) and out to the Uros floating islands. 

Leaving Puno for the Uros islands

On the floating Uros islands on Lake Titicaca

Stepping on to 2 m deep tortora reeds was a bit strange (in about 20m of water, apparently) and the locals (mostly a mixture of the Uros and the larger Aymara tribe) showed us how to make the islands, talked us through their life as reed dwellers, and ultimately persuaded us to buy their handicrafts. Entertaining enough and not too exploitative, but a bit too touristy for my taste. Then a short crossing from one island to another on a reed boat in order to visit a school where, rather embarrassingly, they sang for us. 

On Lake Titicaca

The rest of the morning passed as we travelled north across the lake for some two and a half hours to the island of Tarique. Glassy surface gave some great photo opportunities. Titicaca is the world’s largest high altitude body of water, fifteen times the size of Lac Geneva and 284m deep. Incidentally, the name Titicaca derives from the Aymara word titi (mountain cat) and the Quecha word caca, meaning rock – the cat inhabited the lake shores and was said to have visited the Sacred Rock on the Isla del Sol worshipped by pre Inca peoples. The link comes from the legend that the ancient indigenous people saw the eyes of the cat gleaming form the rock.
We landed in bright sunshine and ascended 100m on an easy path to the market square at 3,995m. The island’s inhabitants dress quite differently here, the men knit and wear Father Christmas like hats that they store coca leaves in. The women wear a black veil and red skirts. We enjoyed a good lunch of quinoa and vegetable soup, followed by lake trout, and then walked to the other end of the island where the boat had been repositioned to collect us for the short journey to our overnight stop, the island of Amantani.

On the island of Tarique, Lake Titicaca

Landing on Amantani, with clear views again to the distant Illanapu, we were split into couples and introduced to our family host for the night – Norma. A walk up through terraced fields led to a pleasant little farmhouse and cosy bedroom, later lit by candle. From the house at 3,881m we walked up to almost 4,000m to partake in the customary football match against the locals – exhausting, although I did manage to score a goal (at the right end!). The family daughters, Stefanie and Sabina then brought us back to the house in the gathering darkness. Waiting for dinner, a big electrical storm went off all around us…very dramatic. We enjoyed a simple dinner in the tiny (filthy) kitchen – vegetable soup with pasta, rice followed by traditional mint tea – with assorted family members drifting in and out. We skipped the planned entertainment back up in the village hall and enjoyed a good sleep in our cosy little room.

Amantani, Lake Titicaca, our island homestay

Homestay kitchen!

Day 11 - 7 November


Breakfast of pancakes and bread/jam, washed down with coca tea, then returned to the harbour to bid our hosts farewell. It took 3 ¼ hours on choppy waters to get back to Puno in light rain with heavily overcast skies. The algae on the approach to Puno had been dissipated by the overnight storm. Lunch and internet back in Puno before setting off again for an hours' drive to visit the Sillustani funery towers, 30km to the north. We visited the chullpas, very large white stone towers up to 10m in height in which the Colla tribe buried their dead. Set on a small peninsula this temple/cemetery consists of a ring of stones more than 500 years old. There are honeycomb chullpas, with superb stonework influenced by the advance of the Inca Empire, and the later more elaborate Inca-type stone masonry.

At Sillustani funery towers

It was an attractive setting overlooking lakes on all sides, with photogenic Peruvian country in the late afternoon light. A short walk back through the village brought us to our rough camp site for the night (rough=no toilets, showers and no running water). We quickly set up our tents and Anna and I repacked for my departure the following day. It started pouring with rain as dinner was being prepared and the meal was enjoyed inside the truck. Early to bed, but sleep disturbed by dodgy stomach and packs of dogs who barked all night…great.


Day 12 - 8 November

A long wait at Juliaca airport

Dropped off at Juliaca airport (outside the shabbiest town you’ve ever seen) and watched the truck disappear northwards towards Cusco. Got flight to Lima via Arequipa in the afternoon – great views of the El Misty volcano on the approach to Arequipa – and some big volcanoes seen en route to Lima. A fitting end to a short trip to South America. Lima overnight, back to UK the following day.

Volcano country north of Arequipa